— new Skoda recommendations oil in Russia,
- specification and recommendations from the manual,
- which oil is better and what the dealer pours,
- when to change the oil,
- volume of oil to be replaced,
- checking the oil level on the dipstick,
- what is better draining or pumping out - video,
— original vag oil — cat.number.
Often found next questions, answers to the cat. dealers gave me:
What kind of oil does the manufacturer pour into Skoda?- Shell helix / Castrol.
What kind of oil do dealers pour us?- with whom the contract is concluded, then they pour. Basically Castrol.
What oil is better to pour?— be guided not by reviews, but by the recommendations of the factory and the condition of your car.
My experience.
Previously, I poured LiquiMolly 5W30 TOP TEC 4200 LongLife III oil - the consumption was about 500 grams per thousand.
UPDATE 01/14/16
Now I switched to Shell Helix Ultra 0w30, tolerance 502 - consumption has decreased!
It was about 200 grams per thousand.
given in this letter
Specifications for oil from the Skoda owner's manual
When topping up, you can mix various oils together. This Not applies to vehicles with flexible interservice intervals.
Filling volumes are given taking into account the replacement of the oil filter. Check the oil level when filling, do not fill too much.
For vehicles with flexible service intervals Only the following oils may be used.
To maintain properties engine oil, we recommend adding oil only of the same specification. In exceptional cases, it is possible, only once, to add no more than 0.5 liters of engine oil of specification VW 502 00 (only gasoline engines) or VW specification 505 01 (diesel engines only).
Do not use other engine oils - risk of engine damage!
When to change oil
IN difficult conditions operation in major city or heavily dusty areas Recommendation for changing the oil and filter every 7 - 8 thousand km.
Checking the oil level
The vehicle must be on a level surface and the engine must be still warm after operation.
- Stop the engine.
- Open the hood.
- Wait a few minutes for the engine oil to drain back into the oil pan and remove the dipstick.
- Wipe the oil dipstick with a clean cloth and insert as far as it will go.
- Remove the oil dipstick again and check the oil level.
Oil level in zone A- Do not add oil.
Oil level in zone B- You can add oil.
The oil level may then rise to zone A.
Oil level in zone C- You need to add oil.
It is sufficient that the oil level is in zone B.
Engine oil consumption is normal. Depending on driving style and operating conditions, oil consumption can be up to 0.5 l/1000 km.
In the first 5,000 km, oil consumption may be even higher.
It is therefore essential to check the oil level regularly, preferably at every fill-up or after a long drive.
At high load to the engine, e.g. when driving for a long time on motorways in summer time, when towing a trailer or driving in high mountains, it is recommended to keep the oil level in zone A - but not higher.
At insufficient level oil lights up control lamp in the instrument cluster. In this case, check the oil level with the dipstick as soon as possible. Add the appropriate amount of oil.
CAREFULLY
The oil level must never be higher than zone A.
Risk of damage to the exhaust gas aftertreatment system!
If in this situation you cannot add oil, do not continue driving. Stop the engine and seek professional help, otherwise serious engine damage may result.
Adding engine oil
- Check engine oil level » see above
- Unscrew the engine oil filler cap.
- Pour in oil of the recommended brand in portions of 0.5 liters.
- Checking the oil level.
- Carefully screw on the oil filler cap and insert the oil dipstick as far as it will go.
Do not add additives to engine oil- this can lead to serious damage engine parts! Damage caused by such causes is not covered by the warranty.
Useful oil change tips
Drain the oil after driving while the engine is still warm. If the engine is cold, start and warm it up to operating temperature. Fill with the same brand of oil as the oil that was in the engine.
If you still decide to change the brand of oil, flush the lubrication system flushing oil or oil of the brand to be used. To do this, after draining the old oil, fill in new oil to the lower mark on the dipstick. Start the engine and let it run for 10 minutes Idling. Drain the oil and only then replace oil filter. Now you can fill in new oil to the required level (up to the top mark on the dipstick).
How to change the oil and oil filter
Oil change - what is better to drain or pump out
there is no Skoda, but the essence is the same.
Original vag oil - cat.number
Synthetic engine oil Special C
SAE 0W-30
VW 502 00 / 505 00
Catalog number - G 055 167 M2
Other original ones, we can come in handy for someone, found on the drive
G 052 167 M4 - VAG Special Plus 5W-40 - 5 liters (Tolerance: VW 502 00 / 505 00 / 505 01)
G 052 167 M2 - VAG Special Plus 5W-40 - 1 liter (Tolerance: VW 502 00 / 505 00 / 505 01)
G 055 167 M4 - VAG Special C 0W-30 - 5 liters (Tolerance: 502.00/ 505.00/505.01)
G 055 167 M2 - VAG Special C 0W-30 - 1 liter (Tolerance: 502.00/ 505.00/505.01)
G 052 183 M4 - VAG Longlife II 0W-30 - 5 liters (Tolerance: VW 503 00/ 506 00/ 506 01)
G 052 183 M2 - VAG Longlife II 0W-30 - 1 liter (Approval: VW 503 00/ 506 00/ 506 01)
G 052 195 M4 - VAG Longlife III 5W-30 - 5 liters (Tolerance: VW 504 00/ 507 00)
G 052 195 M2 - VAG Longlife III 5W-30 - 1 liter (Tolerance: VW 504 00/ 507 00)
At first I checked the oil level almost every day. Six months later, I frankly declare that the engine of the 2012 model does not eat oil. The "factory" Castrol 0w30 ate a little on the run-in, but at 7500 km the oil frankly died, and it was decided to replace it with a proven version of Shell Helix Ultra 5w40. Shell doesn't eat at all. You can vomit in traffic jams, you can anneal it, you still don’t eat. Browsing Internet resources on this engine, and new German turbos in general, led to the conclusion that the oil should be changed every 7-10 tkm, it is advisable to switch to mobil1.
TO-0 Passed in the same place where he bought the car, in "Bohemia". Oil changed 3 hours. Purely, culturally, without nerves. but 3 hours. Nezachot.
TO-1 Went to pass in the Pelican. There, despite the much larger amount of work, they kept within 1.5 hours of work plus 15 minutes for registration. Plus, they are more convenient.
For TO-1.5, Mobil 1 New Life 0w40 was ordered in Exist. It was only decided to replace it later, by 25 thousand - so that after 5 tkm it would already be changed. Still, we are switching to another brand of oil.
Tags: What kind of oil to fill in the engine Skoda Octavia 1.8 turbo agu
skoda superb 1.8T oil consumption
Page 1 of 3 - Oil in Skoda Octavia Tour 1.8 Turbo - sent... 2) 1.8 Turbo AGU Gasoline 3) Filling volume of oil 4.5 liters 4) Moscow, ... The essence of the question is this: I want to chip the engine soon.
ŠKODA OCTAVIIA CLUB. Skoda Octavia club. | Topic author: Nikolay
WHAT OIL TO FILL IN THE ENGINE?
The question in the title can be classified as eternal, that is, those about which motorists will argue to the point of hoarseness as long as there are power units that need this technical fluid. Of course, it’s impossible to say unequivocally that only mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic oil should be poured into the car’s engine - there are too many factors to consider when choosing it. Today we'll take a look at everything possible options, which may affect the choice of lubricant for the "heart" of the machine. First, let's remember why, in fact, the engine needs oil. It performs several useful features: lubricates the rubbing surfaces of engine parts, protects them from corrosion, removes heat in places of friction of parts power unit, reduces shock loads, and, finally, serves as a "washing" agent, washing out all the debris that has accumulated in the engine case during its operation. Now we will start from what types of oil mankind has come up with in order to protect power plant machines from all of these troubles.
The first motor oil was obtained naturally from petroleum feedstocks. This is the most "natural" lubricating fluid, the composition of which is replete with natural hydrocarbons. Unfortunately, these natural oil components are highly unstable, changing their properties under the influence of external factors, such as temperature. environment. The first engines that used mineral oil suffered greatly from the effects of temperatures, as a result of which the technical fluid could not perform its main functions for a long time, and needed to be frequent replacement, which in itself did not please car owners. With the development of chemistry, scientists guessed that it was possible to stabilize the properties of mineral motor oil with the help of special substances - the so-called additives. They began to actively add to the composition of the oil, but although the expected effect was, it also turned out to be short-lived. And all because added to lubricating fluid additives under the influence of all the same factors very quickly collapsed, prolonging the life of the "mineral water" for a short time.
A real breakthrough in the "oil" business was the invention of synthetic technical fluids for engine lubrication. Obtained by the synthesis of hydrocarbons, these oils were more resistant to adverse factors, did not require, due to their stable composition, many additives inherent in mineral water, and, most importantly, they significantly extended the life of the engine. Then a third type of motor oil appeared - semi-synthetic. It was created by mixing the bases of synthetic and mineral oils in a ratio of 30/70 (some semi synthetic oils are based equally on "synthetics" and "mineral water"). This oil is the "golden mean", as it has absorbed best properties two other lubricants.
When discussing which oil is better to fill in a car engine, you need to remember a few more of its parameters that you need to consider when choosing this technical fluid. These include viscosity (the ability of the oil to become thinner or thicker at certain temperatures), the presence of additives, and the approval of the automotive manufacturer.
Engine oil viscosity grade
It cannot be said that some oil is better, and some is worse - for one type engine fit, for example, "mineral water", and the other will work like clockwork only on "synthetics". As a rule, mineral motor oils are poured into engines of older designs (carburetor). Modern injection engines(it doesn’t matter if the car has a gasoline or diesel engine) of new cars, synthetic oil is best tolerated - it is it that is poured into the engines of cars still on the conveyor. But the same modern engines with an increase in mileage, such a property as increased waste (degree of combustion and oil consumption) manifests itself. To reduce the degree of fumes, use semi-synthetic oil. Thus, we came to the conclusion: mineral water is for the engines of old cars (they can run on synthetics and semi-synthetics, but what's the point of paying more?), synthetics - for the engines of completely new cars, semi-synthetics - for new units, but already past a certain mileage (from 60 to 90 thousand km) of cars.
But it was we who decided on which types of oils in terms of chemical composition to choose under ideal conditions. In fact, the process of choosing oil for a particular engine is a bit more complicated. First of all, you need to consider which oils the manufacturer recommends. Information about this can be found in the car manual, but if you bought a used car and there is no “manual” for it, then data on types, brands and viscosity characteristics engine oil can be found on the Internet, on the websites of automakers. IN last resort, you can call dealership selling cars of your brand and clarify all the parameters with a consultant. Then you need to determine which oil was filled from the factory (if the car is new) or by the previous owner of the car. IN modern cars, as mentioned above, synthetic oils are used, and for cars with mileage in the engine, most likely, “semi-synthetics” are filled in or, if the device is rare, “mineral water”. Having determined what oil composition and viscosity has already been used in the unit of your car, you can select a brand. Currently, automakers do not name specific brands of oils that they fill in the engines of their cars, telling customers what is in there. branded oil(for example, "Mercedes" or "BMW").
They do this because they want to keep the owner of the car on the service “needle” for as long as possible, selling him “branded” oil at a price much higher than the manufacturer of the technical fluid releases it. Therefore, the task of the motorist is still to find out a specific brand of oil in order to save money. In addition, it is not at all necessary to pour your own " iron horse" oil certain brand- for sure there are a lot of analogues on the market, which, perhaps, will suit you better on the “price-quality” scale. After all, the main thing in oil is not the brand, but its chemical composition(mineral, synthetic or semi-synthetic) and the degree of viscosity.
Based on all the above parameters, you can determine which type oil is suitable for your specific engine.
What oil is better to pour? | All about Skoda Octavia A5
google.com/ Castrol... The manufacturer recommends changing the engine oil every 1 .... Hello, tell me which oil to use, octavia 1.4 turbo 140 hp A7 ...
Engine 1.8 TSI CDAB
Characteristics of engines 1.8 TSI (2 pok.)
| Production | Volkswagen |
| Engine brand | EA888 2nd generation |
| Release years | 2008-2015 |
| Block material | cast iron |
| Supply system | direct injection |
| Type | in-line |
| Number of cylinders | 4 |
| Valves per cylinder | 4 |
| Piston stroke, mm | 84.2 |
| Cylinder diameter, mm | 82.5 |
| Compression ratio | 9.6 |
| Engine volume, cc | 1798 |
| Engine power, hp / rpm | 120/3650-6200 152/4300-6200 160/4500-6200 |
| Torque, Nm/rpm | 230/1500-3650 250/1500-4200 250/1500-4200 |
| Fuel | 95 |
| Environmental regulations | Euro 5 |
| Engine weight, kg | - |
| Fuel consumption, l/100 km (for Octavia A5) - city - track - mixed. |
9.1 5.4 6.6 |
| Oil consumption, g/1000 km | up to 500 |
| Engine oil | 0W-30 0W-40 5W-30 5W-40 |
| How much oil is in the engine, l | 4.6 |
| Oil change is carried out, km | 15000 (preferably 7500) |
| Operating temperature of the engine, hail. | - |
| Engine resource, thousand km - according to the plant - on practice |
- ~100 |
| Tuning, HP - potential - no loss of resource |
350+ ~250 |
| The engine was installed | Volkswagen Golf 6 VW Passat B6/B7 VW Passat CC Audi A3 Audi A4 Audi A5 Skoda Octavia Skoda Superb Skoda Yeti Audi TT SEAT Altea SEAT Eveo SEAT Leon SEAT Toledo |
Reliability, problems and repair of engines 1.8 TSI (2 pok.)
The second generation EA888 appeared in 2008 and became the most popular 1.8-liter representative. CDAB engine besides it were CDAA, CDHA and CDHB. These motors have replaced BZB, CABA, CABD and CABB, i.e. of the entire EA888 series of the 1st generation.
In new engines, cylinders are honed differently, the diameter of the crankshaft main journals has been reduced to 52 mm (was 58 mm), new pistons with new rings have been installed (about which a lot is written in the "Problems" section), a new Vacuum pump, applied adjustable oil pump, instead of 1 lambda probe, 2 pcs are installed here. The exhaust motor now complies with Euro-5 standards.
Otherwise, everything remained without significant changes, but even this was enough for the reliability of the design to change significantly.
The two most popular engines were CDAB and CDAA, which differ in firmware.
Power CDAB 152 hp at 4300-6200 rpm, torque 250 Nm at 1500-4200 rpm.
Power CDAA 160 hp at 4500-6200 rpm, the torque is the same.
The CDH engine was also produced, which had the CDHB and CDHA versions and was installed on the Audi A4, A5 and SEAT Exeo. The CDHB engine was the counterpart to the CDAA.The CDHA motor is an analogue of the CABA, but already of the 2nd generation with all the innovations, where the turbine is needed only for a significant increase in torque. Its power is only 120 hp. at 3650-6200 rpm, and a torque of 230 Nm at 1500-3650 rpm.
In parallel, a larger version was produced - 2.0 TSI 2nd generation, which we write about.
The production of 1.8 TSI 2nd generation continued until 2015, and since 2013 they have been replaced by new 1.8 TSI 3rd generation.
Disadvantages and problems of CDAB engines
1. Zhor oil. high consumption oil is the most famous problem of the 2nd generation 1.8 TSI and it all happens due to the special design piston rings, which are very thin and have too small drainage holes. The disease manifests itself at about 50 thousand km and is rapidly progressing, already by 100 thousand oil consumption can reach several liters per 1000 km, after which you go for a major overhaul.
What to do in this case: for engines manufactured before 05.2011 (inclusive), they change pistons to BZB pistons, this is Kolbenschmidt 40251600 (21 fingers). For newer engines, pistons Kolbenschmidt 40761600 (23 pin) are suitable. Here it is important to understand what condition the cylinders are in, it may be necessary to bore and then repair pistons are needed. For oversize pistons, the last two digits of 00 change to 01 or 02, depending on the size. Along with the pistons, oil nozzles are also changed.
At the very end of 2011, the maslozhora problem was solved.
An oil separator can also cause oil consumption, which is desirable to replace with 06H103495AD or 06H103495AC.
2. Stretching the timing chain. This happens after 100 thousand km, closer to 150 thousand km, which will be notified extraneous noise. There is only one way out - replacing the chain together with the tensioner with the same new sample.
3. Swim speed. Because of huge expense oil, it gets on the candles and wherever else is possible, which causes unstable job motor. Most likely, when parsing, it will be found that everything is in oil deposits, the valves are in soot, and all this needs to be put in order every 50 thousand km.
In addition, due to the injection pump, gasoline may begin to enter the oil, this can be checked by smell on the dipstick. This leads to the replacement of the injection pump assembly.
You can extend the life of this motor if you change the oil more than once every 15,000 km (as recommended), but every 5000-7500 km, use only the most quality oil, drive most of the time on the highway and avoid traffic jams, refuse short trips, do not drive at too low speeds ....
The best option is to refuse to buy a car with such a motor.
Tuning engines 1.8 TSI (2nd generation)
Chip tuning
These motors show about 220-225 hp without any problems. on the Stage 1 ECU firmware alone. With a cold intake, large front intercooler, downpipe and Stage 2 firmware, you can get about 250 hp. This is a good result, especially for the 120-horsepower version, but if you want even more, then you need to switch to the K04 turbine.
A turbo kit based on the K04 will give up to 350 hp, but the engine will not go up to 2300-2500 rpm. Such a kit needs new spark plugs, coils from S3, a good exhaust on a 76 mm pipe, a large intercooler, an appropriate ECU setting.
