And so in the previous article we figured out which antifreeze is necessary and best suited for the cooling system of your motorcycle. It's time to replace it. And so in the previous article we figured out which antifreeze is necessary and best suited for the cooling system of your motorcycle. It's time to replace it.
In general, where did you get the idea that it needs to be changed? Below I will give examples of cases when antifreeze needs to be changed, and when it is better to wait.
1. Motorbike just came from Japan or you just bought it in Russia from another owner
2. You bought motorbike for a very long time, and it's time to change antifreeze by expiration date?
3. I want to tinker with motorcycle, let’s say in winter, so that you can just ride freely and without unnecessary stress
4. Motorbike gets very hot
5. Motorbike On the contrary, it takes a very long time to heat up
As the experience of many of my friends and mine personally shows. It is better to change antifreeze only in the fourth case. And in the second case, it is also worth changing the antifreeze. And in all other cases the rule applies - “ it's working don't interfere».
We start replacing antifreeze by giving motorcycle cool down. Next step by step.
Step one.
We give motorcycle Cool down, at least until the radiator is lukewarm. Never open the radiator cap while the car is running or warm. motorcycle, and it’s better to wait 10 minutes even if you started it motorbike and turned it off right away.
The fact is that in the cooling system motorcycle pressure is created due to which the liquid circulates, getting into the thin fins of the radiator which are blown by the wind, the liquid cools down and then again goes through the pipes and pipes into the engine, from there again into the radiator and so on until motorbike is working or the thermostat will not close, we will talk about the thermostat in a separate article.
Bye motorbike cools down can be removed left side panel plastic(lower) if it is a sport or all left plastic, if this sport tourist, on road workers And choppers getting to the drain bolt is even easier.
Step two.
We find it on the left side motorcycle(most often) the water pump, even if water pump located with right side, you can easily distinguish it. For greater clarity, see photo 1, the drain ball is marked with a red outline, usually size 8.
We unscrew it counterclockwise (usually a standard thread), unscrew it almost completely, when the bolt can be rotated by hand, we substitute a container, preferably something like concrete or a basin, the bottle is extremely inconvenient.
Step three.
After unscrewing the bolt, let the liquid drain, be sure to remove the cap on the radiator, otherwise you will wait a long time and only part of it will drain, or even nothing will drain at all.
Step four.
After the liquid stops flowing from drain hole in the water pump, remove motorbike from the footrest and tilt it in different directions, returning to the starting position, repeat several times.
Step five.
Pour 2-3 liters of distilled water into the radiator motorcycle through a watering can, otherwise you will spill more. This step allows you to somehow flush the cooling system motorcycle, wash away sediment and deposits. There are special flushes for the cooling system motorcycle, which I did not have the chance to use, and again, I read that the result from such flushes will only be provided that it is flushed under pressure; some flushes allow it when the cooling system is filled with it motorcycle start up motorbike for a short time to “acidify” the deposits and sediment, then the flush is simply drained and antifreeze is added.
Regarding these additives and flushes, I can say one thing. If motorbike quite old, it is better to just change the antifreeze and flush the radiator with distilled water no more. The fact is that many flushes can wash away those deposits that have coked, simply holes in the cooling system, and when flushing them with an additive you can have serious problems.
And so we simply rinse with distilled water, let it drain in the same way, and tilt motorbike from side to side, pour out the maximum possible amount of liquid.
Step five.
It is necessary to drain the antifreeze from under the cylinders; there are two drain bolts. For clarity, look at photo 2. The operation is simple, put a rag on it, use an 8mm open-end wrench to unscrew the bolts completely, i.e. We take out the bolt, the liquid drains, we tighten it back. We repeat the operation on the other side. If it is not clear from the photo, the bolts are located in the “ledges” of the engine immediately behind the radiator on V-shaped engines motorcycles.
On in-line engines motorcycles approximately in the same place, usually the bolts are symmetrical and more or less accessible. Twisted, merged, twisted, moving on.
Step six.
We check that all the drain bolts are screwed into place, tighten them, but do not tear them off.
Step seven.
We drain the old antifreeze from the expansion tank, simultaneously examining the walls of the drain tank; there should be no mold or deposits on them, otherwise you need to wash it. On my first motorcycle There was mold (photo 9 and photo 10) and deposits, I washed it off under the tap with water pressure, with a toothbrush and using washing liquids. At the same time, check the return and drain hose from the expansion tank, the drain is the one that is attached to the bottom, the return is connected to the radiator and expansion tank, its upper part, usually on separate motorcycles The design may be slightly or completely different, but the principle is always the same. It is better to blow out the hoses to make sure they are passable, otherwise, if there is an excess of antifreeze in the radiator, something may rupture somewhere. If you blow with your mouth, rinse the hoses, antifreeze is poison, be careful, it’s better to blow with a pump or something else as a last resort, you can blow it out by applying it to your lips, but wash the hoses thoroughly with soap. After flushing the expansion tank and draining the old antifreeze from it, we install everything back and attach the hoses.
Step eight.
Pour diluted antifreeze into the radiator and use a funnel into the expansion tank.
How to dilute antifreeze, see the article “Antifreeze or antifreeze? What is best and what is suitable for motorcycles and motorcycles.”
Typically, on antifreeze canisters from well-known manufacturers, on the back of the canister there is a table of the relationship between temperatures, the percentage of dilution with water and the percentage of residual antifreeze concentrate. In practice, if the winter temperature in the garage does not drop below -30, you can mix 50% antifreeze with 50% distilled water. However, please check the plate on back side canisters of antifreeze you purchased.
Step nine.
Close the cap on the radiator motorcycle, install plastic.
Step ten.
Starting the motorcycle, let it warm up, and let's go for a ride, first after the shift, and in general always monitor the readings temperature sensor, overheating threatens irreversible consequences for engine. After a few days of use motorcycle, motorcycles Again, after letting the equipment cool down, open the radiator and check the level. Antifreeze should be filled up to the neck of the radiator; if necessary, illuminate it with a flashlight. Regardless of the level in the radiator, check the antifreeze level in expansion tank, the level should be at full or high, the inscriptions are approximately the same, again depending on the modification motorcycle, an average level between the full and low marks is allowed.
If after changing the antifreeze motorbike It gets very hot, try changing the antifreeze to another one from a different manufacturer, but of the same shade. The cause of overheating may be a soured, worn out or retired thermostat, obstruction or malfunction of the water pump.
Below are some additional photos.
From the above it follows that you need golden mean. I always diluted antifreeze 50% with 50% water.
However, under no circumstances should you take cheap antifreeze from unknown or little-known manufacturers and Russian production including. In their motorcycles I filled it with antifreeze Velvoline, heard many positive reviews about antifreeze companies Shell, Castrol, Liqu–Moly, Motorex.
There are and really exist antifreeze And antifreeze For motorcycles And motorcycles generally. But in our city it was simply impossible to find it, and usually the price for such goods is clearly overpriced, with the same filling.
You can safely take the so-called “automobile” antifreeze. There are two types, red and green antifreeze, I have heard and read many opinions that colors do not play a role and there are also opposite opinions that colors are responsible for the additional chemical in the antifreeze. There is only one piece of advice: open the cap on the radiator neck motorcycle, look there, shine it through if necessary. If we see green, we buy green, we see red, aka the pinkish color of antifreeze, we go to the auto store and buy a similar one, but preferably from the above companies.
I think we’ve sorted out the concept and type of antifreeze. Now all that remains is to prepare it for use. Purchasing antifreeze for your motorcycle, do not forget to buy 2-3 liters of distilled water. There are opinions that before changing the antifreeze, the cooling system motorcycle It is highly advisable to rinse.
Yes, this is possible, but for “flushing” to have an effect, you need to rinse under pressure and at the same time “driving” flushing fluid according to the system. By washing by hand, or better yet, with 2-4 liters of distilled water, you will only wash out some of the sediment and old antifreeze from a small circuit (radiator-water pump - bucket).
By personal experience I’ll say that it’s worth rinsing, but only for peace of mind. The results are usually small, some part of the sediment that plays absolutely no role.
It is necessary to dilute antifreeze with distilled water, since ordinary water produces a sediment over time, which falls in the cooling system motorcycle.
Discylate is not expensive, so we don’t save on it, but we shouldn’t take too much.
Let's say the cooling system of your motorcycle It has a volume of 3 liters and about 500 ml in the expansion tank. Find out the volume of the cooling system motorcycle you can from the instructions ( manual) to yours motorcycle, which can either be found on the Internet or (which is better) purchased, because often peek in manual you need it in a garage where there is no computer, even if you have a laptop, it’s a pity, and it’s dangerous to carry it into the garage because For many laptops, this trip turns out to be fatal.
and so, the cooling system motorcycle has a volume of 3 liters, we purchase a two-liter canister of antifreeze and purchase 2 liters of distilled water.
There will, of course, be leftover, but if we buy a liter of everything, we won’t have enough because... Do not forget about the expansion tank and its volume. Also after changing the antifreeze in the cooling system motorcycle“air jams” form, which will go away after 1-2 trips, the antifreeze will “sag” and you will need to top it up a little either into the radiator motorcycle, or into the expansion tank.
Properly dilute antifreeze concentrate.
When buying antifreeze in a store, check with the seller whether you are purchasing concentrate. Usually sellers are so unqualified that they do not understand the difference between antifreeze and antifreeze. Better ask again.
Next, look at the back of the antifreeze canister. There should be a table there percentage degrees of freezing and/or boiling to the percentage of distilled water and the residual amount of antifreeze concentrate. If there is no table, it is better to refuse the purchase and look for another one with a table.
Briefly:
1. You need to purchase antifreeze famous manufacturer according to the shade of the already filled antifreeze in the cooling system of your motorcycle, you can purchase “automotive” antifreeze.
2. It is better to dilute with distilled water.
3. When purchasing antifreeze, it is better to pay attention to the presence of a concentrate dilution table, as well as check with the seller whether you are purchasing antifreeze concentrate or antifreeze? Even if the seller answers that it is antifreeze, read what is written on the package. Sometimes sellers are still qualified; you can ask how best to dilute antifreeze for “our weather conditions”, but take winter and a cold garage into account.
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ATTENTION – reprinting of this article is PROHIBITED, posting the original article on other resources will be suppressed! Author © Kravchenko Dmitry
MOTOCOOL FACTORY LINE
READY TO USE COOLANT ANTI-CORROSION, LOW-FREEZE -35°C / -31°F CREATED BY ORGANIC TECHNOLOGY
Does not contain nitrites, amines, phosphates, borates, silicates.
Application
MOTUL MOTOCOOL FACTORY LINE is a ready-to-use coolant based on monoethylene glycol with organic anti-corrosion additives. This provides excellent protection for aluminum/magnesium alloys used by modern motorcycle engine manufacturers.
Characteristics
For classifications and manufacturer approvals, see Appendix. At the same time, it protects the engine from defrosting and prevents corrosion of metal parts. Special organic additives provide the best anti-corrosion properties for aluminum/magnesium alloys. According to corrosion tests carried out on a motorcycle radiator, corrosion in MOTOCOOL FACTORY LINE fluid develops three times slower than in ordinary organic fluid. Provides excellent heat transfer, effectively cools the engine, and prevents boiling. Organic technology provides anti-corrosion properties that last through elevated temperatures and during liquid operation. Low consumption of corrosion inhibitors allows extended fluid change intervals. Protects the water pump by preventing cavitation. Not aggressive to construction materials: metals, plastics, rubber products. Contains bittering additives to prevent consumption as antifreeze and coolants taste sweet but are harmful to the body.
Ready to use. Does not require adding water. Replacement is carried out according to the manufacturer's recommendation. Do not mix with non-organic products. Do not use for frost protection in drinking water supplies.
READY TO USE MOTORCYCLE COOLANT ANTI-CORROSIVE, LOW-FREEZE -37°C / -35°F
Does not contain nitrites, amines, phosphates.
Application
MOTUL MOTOCOOL EXPERT is a ready-to-use motorcycle coolant.
Created on the basis of monoethylene glycol with organic and inorganic anti-corrosion additives (hybrid technology) for light aluminum alloys used in motorcycle construction. Features Compliance with: ASTM D3306 / D4656, BS 6580, AFNOR NFR 15-601, SAE J 1034, JIS K2234, KSM 2142 Protects the engine from freezing and prevents corrosion of metal parts. Provides excellent heat transfer and effectively cools the engine.
Prevents engine overheating thanks to high temperature boiling point (133°C / 271°F at +1.5 atm) Excellent anti-corrosion and anti-cavitation properties that are maintained during the operation of the liquid. Not aggressive to construction materials: metals, plastics, rubber products. Anti-foam properties. Contains bittering additives to prevent consumption as antifreeze and coolants taste sweet but are harmful to the body.
Ready to use. Does not require adding water. Replacement is carried out according to the manufacturer's recommendation. Do not use for frost protection in drinking water supplies.
Storage
Avoid exposure to light during storage
COOLING SYSTEM ADDITIVE REDUCES ENGINE OPERATING TEMPERATURE BY 15°C
FACILITATES HEAT TRANSFER IN THE COOLING SYSTEM CONCENTRATE
Application
Can be used in any liquid system cooling a motorcycle, car, ATV... where there is overheating when difficult conditions movement or sports competitions, to reduce the operating temperature of the engine. ATTENTION: - Some technical regulations competitions prohibit the use of coolants other than water. It is necessary to clarify the competition rules before using MoCool. Motul company shall not be liable in the event of disqualification due to unlawful use of the drug. MoCool does not have anti-freeze protection properties for the engine.
Allows you to reduce operating temperature engine by 15°C: Facilitates heat transfer in the cooling system, improves the performance of the cooling system. Has anti-corrosion properties. Recommended for engines made of magnesium and aluminum alloys and containing metal, copper, bronze and brass elements in the cooling system. Pump protection, cavitation prevention. Not aggressive towards materials of gaskets and pipes.
MOTUL MoCool is a concentrated coolant designed to be diluted with distilled water and used as a coolant. Mix with water in a ratio of 20:1 (5%). Do not use in pure form. Miscible with most low-freeze coolants.
- prevent "one...
Antifreeze for motorcycle
Honda motorcycle antifreeze, like other motorcycles with a water-cooled engine, is a cooling element containing a set of additives that:
- provide reliable protection engine components and mechanisms, as well as cooling systems against corrosion;
- prevent boiling and foaming;
- prevent the engine from “defrosting” when long-term parking in low temperature conditions.
You need to know that the cooling properties of antifreeze are slightly less than that of water, but it is not recommended to fill the system with plain or distilled water, as this will contribute to the rapid formation of corrosion on the internal cavity of the radiator and engine and freezing of the liquid when sub-zero temperature air.
What do you need to know when choosing?
Before purchasing, it is important to consider that the color of the solution depends on the composition of the additives and does not affect the quality of the coolant.
Antifreeze for Honda motorcycle, like other coolants for Vehicle, are available in two types:
- ready for use;
- in the form of a concentrate, which requires dilution with distilled water in the proportions specified in the instructions. As a rule, dilute 1:1.
Purchase only high-quality materials recommended by the motorcycle manufacturer. Neglecting this rule and saving can lead to corrosion, engine overheating and breakdown.
Changing the coolant
The coolant in motorcycles is replaced after the expiration date indicated on the label, which is usually 2-4 years or if the solution is heavily contaminated and a “rusty cloud” has formed.
Before the change, you definitely need to know what kind of antifreeze to pour into a motorcycle. This information can be found in the vehicle manufacturer's instructions. If it is not known what kind of antifreeze is filled in the motorcycle, it is recommended that after draining technical fluid Thoroughly rinse the cooling system with distilled water or a special compound.
Why is it better to use the services of our online store?
- We have a wide range of high-quality coolant groups: G11, G12, G12plus only from well-known foreign manufacturers: Texaco, Shell, Total, domestic ones: Lukoil, VAMP, BASF Antifreeze and other companies.
- Buy antifreeze Yamaha motorcycle and other vehicles with liquid cooled in our store you can low prices in Moscow, in comparison with companies selling similar products.
- Delivery of ordered goods is carried out in the shortest possible time throughout Russia.
Hi all! For a long time now, Wolf has been encouraging me to write an article about antifreeze and the manipulations associated with them. Finally I found the time to do it. Since I have been working in the field of auto chemicals, motor oils and special fluids for several years, consultations on this issue are commonplace for me. During all the time I worked, I saw a lot: various prejudices regarding the color of antifreeze, illiterate interpretation of information on the packaging, and simply the banal lack of people’s understanding or knowledge regarding this issue. Therefore, I will start with the simplest and most basic information about coolants.
Antifreeze for motorcycle
So. Coolant - antifreeze and antifreeze. What is the difference between them? TOSOL is also an antifreeze, originally developed and produced for VAZ cars in the USSR. Antifreeze is an abbreviation for: Technology of Organic Synthesis of OL (alcohol according to chemical nomenclature). Currently, the name “antifreeze” is used as a common noun for a specific type of antifreeze. It has a more rigid base, there are no tolerances, it is very often counterfeited and the recipe can be any. Therefore, if you, of course, love your equipment, I do not recommend using it anywhere other than very old Lada cars under any circumstances!
These are all Volkswagen standard classifications. But I’ll say right away that various manufacturers There may be different classifications: for example, the original Honda antifreeze G 12 is green. I would also like to warn you: unfortunately, not all antifreezes on which G 11 and G 12 are written, how to say... are such. G 11 and G 12 are approvals that can only be obtained by a coolant that has passed all tests Volkswagen company and suitable for all requirements regarding chemical composition. But, as you understand, this requires certain costs, and many manufacturers simply “draw” these same letters in order to attract a buyer - I’ve encountered this myself. So advice: buy only proven antifreeze!
To mix or not - that is the question
Now let's move on to the most frequently asked question: Is it possible to mix antifreezes? different classes and manufacturers? Antifreezes of the same class and the same manufacturer can be mixed: for example, blue and green. I don’t recommend mixing antifreezes even of the same class and color, but different manufacturers. Let me explain why. In every antifreeze, as in motor oil, has its own package of additives. They may be different for different manufacturers, as a result of which, mixing and conflicting, they either cease to perform their functions, or create sediment and turn the entire contents of the cooling system into jelly. For the same reason, you cannot mix antifreezes of different classes, even from the same manufacturer - in any case, they contain different additive packages and the consequences will be expected. If, for example, a situation arises when it is simply vital to add antifreeze, but you don’t have what you need at hand, it is best to add distilled water.
How and when to change antifreeze
It is worth changing antifreeze every two or four years, depending on the class. The fact is that any antifreeze is designed for a certain service life and at the end of it it ceases to perform its functions. Therefore, you shouldn’t wait until the last minute to replace it - it’s cheaper than buying a new radiator or engine. You need to change antifreeze much earlier if you heavily diluted it with distilled water during operation. You also need to change antifreeze immediately and without hesitation if the following signs appear: the temperature sensor often creeps into the red zone, the liquid begins to boil, the radiator fan runs almost constantly, the radiator remains cold while the engine is very hot, or if you notice sediment in the cooling system . You need to drain the antifreeze when the engine has cooled down, because when the engine is hot, there is too much pressure in the cooling system due to the temperature of the coolant, and you can simply injure yourself. Before filling in new antifreeze, even if you do not change the class, but simply refill the same antifreeze as planned, you must thoroughly flush the system. This can be done with the same distilled water, or by special means- whoever likes it more. It is worth paying attention to the amount of antifreeze drained: firstly, to know how much new to fill, and secondly, to make sure that there is no air jams. To do this, we check the amount of antifreeze drained with the amount prescribed in the motorcycle manual.
And finally main question: how to choose the right antifreeze? Only the right way- look at the manual in your own way iron horse. Manufacturers know better than any other specialist what to put into their equipment. This information will always be in the manual for any motorcycle or car.
That's probably all I would like to tell you. If you have any questions, write to us and we’ll discuss them!
Antifreeze for a motorcycle is a coolant that circulates in the cooling system of a motorcycle. The cooling properties of antifreeze (thermal conductivity) are lower than those of water. Antifreeze is a liquid with a special set of additives introduced into it, which protect the insides of the motorcycle engine and the cooling system from corrosion, and prevent boiling and foaming of the liquid. The color of antifreeze indicates its classification. Initially, antifreezes were made transparent, but later they began to tint them and now we know blue and green antifreezes. This was done to make it easier to determine the fluid level in the expansion tank and detect leaks, since antifreeze is quite toxic. Some manufacturers, for example Japanese ones, change the color of antifreeze according to its freezing temperature, so by looking at the color you can immediately talk about the properties of this antifreeze. But the most important reason different colors- antifreeze belongs to a certain class. On this moment antifreeze for motorcycles is classified mainly according to the standard: G 11, G 12 - two main types and new ones: G 12+ and G 13.
Many motorcyclists ask whether it is possible to mix antifreezes of different classes and manufacturers? Antifreezes of the same class and the same manufacturer can be mixed, even if they different color. But it is undesirable to mix antifreezes, even of the same class and color, but from different manufacturers. Each antifreeze, like motor oil, has its own special set of additives, which can conflict with each other if the antifreeze is from different manufacturers. As a result, they may stop performing their functions or even damage the cooling system. Our advice to motorcyclists: it happens that the antifreeze has “left” the system, but you don’t have what you need on hand - it’s better to add a little distilled water and order the same antifreeze than to add antifreeze from another manufacturer.
You need to change antifreeze for your motorcycle every two or four years, and more often if you have an intense riding style. Any antifreeze is designed for a certain service life and upon expiration it ceases to perform its functions. You shouldn’t wait until the last minute to replace it, especially if you’re not sure how long ago it was last replacement(for example, you purchased a used motorcycle) - it is better to change all the fluids at once, this will allow you to save on major repairs in the future or even save you from buying a new radiator. You need to change the antifreeze immediately if you notice some dangerous signs: the temperature sensor often goes into the red zone, the liquid begins to boil, the radiator fan runs almost without interruption, the radiator remains cold while the engine is very hot, you find sediment in the cooling system. All this is a reason to immediately change the antifreeze. It is also worth changing it if the motorcycle was in a cold garage or box, to underground parking. The properties of antifreeze under such conditions deteriorate many times over.
Antifreeze can only be drained when the engine is “cool,” since too much pressure is created in the cooling system when it is hot due to the temperature of the coolant. Before filling in new antifreeze, even if you do not change the class, but simply refill with a similar one as planned, you need to flush the system and it is better to do this with special means. Pay attention to the amount of antifreeze drained; it can tell you whether there are leaks or air pockets in the cooling system. Measure the amount of drained antifreeze with the amount specified for this system according to the manual. Also from the manual (or with the help of our consultants) you can select suitable antifreeze and its quantity for your motorcycle.
