Good afternoon.
I want to share my experience of replacing fluid in a CVT on a 3rd generation RAV with the correct right-hand drive.
The background is that I began to notice sharp jerks when starting. The mileage is about 50,000 if we assume that the auction was true.
The servicemen, as usual, did not inspire confidence
bought two cans TOYOTA fluids TC for 2000 rubles for a 4-liter canister. A 2 meter hose with a diameter of 9 mm (I think up to 12 mm) and a suitable funnel.
because There was a hole near the dacha and decided to carry out work there.
I removed the plastic protection from the bottom (you just need to be more careful with the plastic fasteners).
There are two plugs on the pallet of our variator, the front one for checking the level with the inscription CHECK, unscrewed with a 6mm hexagon
Rear drain - hexagon 10
Filler plug 24 behind the left wheel
I unscrewed the drain and about 3.5 liters came out.
Next we remove the pan, a lot of 10 bolts, I used a spanner wrench and heads.
Here you will have to tinker because... The 4 bolts on the left side are just above the beam and are very inconvenient, so I recommend starting with them. If it doesn’t work out, then there’s no point in continuing.
I removed the pan and about a liter still drained out.
I waited until the temperatures of the liquids in the new jars and the drained one leveled out, measured the volume of the drained liquid and it came out to 4450 ml. (since I did it for the first time, so I measured everything.)
Then I washed the pan and especially 3 magnets with gasoline - there was dust, but I can’t say a lot or a little because. I don't know the norm.
I dried it thoroughly so that no gasoline would get into the slurry.
I didn't change the filter because... I couldn’t find where to buy it, but it’s not difficult, you can immediately see it there and understand how to change it.
put the pan in place (again these 4 bolts).
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS - I will write why further.
I unscrew the front plug (CHECK) there is a plastic tube inside it.
I tighten the drain.
I fill the liquid because... The hose is a bit thin and goes slowly.
after 3.5 liters it flowed through the plastic tube in the CHECK plug. I tighten the cap and add further to 4450 ml i.e. how much did you leak?
I tighten the filler and off we go.
In fact, the variator began to move softer.
I decided to take a ride to the river about 10 km. It was getting dark.
I arrived, I turned it off, I left the fishing rod, I returned, I started to get under way - I heard a whistle. The variator on P fits the car itself - PUDDLE.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS. I tightened and cut the gasket.
They pulled me to the dacha late at night on a beam.
In the morning, searching for a gasket, a trip of 100 km to Vladivostok and back.
I bought it at the TOYOTA center on snow for 800 rubles. You could find it cheaper for 350 - 400, but these stores were not open on Sunday.
I had to buy another 4 liters of liquid; there were still 3.5 left in the old jar.
I won’t repeat again about removing the pallet.
Reinstall the pan and CAREFULLY tighten the bolts without force.
I no longer knew how much leaked from the variator.
Therefore, we fill it again until it runs through the CHECK (plastic tube)
Then another liter and a half on top.
Now you need to check the level; to do this, we close contacts 4 and 13 in the diagnostic connector.
We start it up, translate P->D (the display looks like a Christmas tree)
then pull D<->N with an interval of no more than 1.5 seconds.
At some point, both D and N will light up simultaneously. This means that the temperature measurement mode is turned on.
If D goes out immediately, it means the variator is cold, if it blinks, it’s already overheated.
My light went out, I turned off the car and did it all over again.
The third time my D and N lit up.
I unscrew the CHECK plug, it doesn’t leak or drip, I screw it on and add 1 liter.
I repeat all the manipulations in the jumper and D<->N.
I unscrew the CHECK - 0.5 liters are drained - when it starts not flowing, I turn it on to drip.
Next, I collect everything and bring the car back to its original state.
What I noticed after replacing the fluid was that the jolt went away when starting off and when accelerating sharply.
Now the engine cannot be revved up to 5000 (it feels like before the transmission was slipping a little)
in general, the work is not difficult and the cost is 4,000 rubles for only 2 canisters of liquid.
But since force is not always useful, I had to add 2800 for another canister and gasket.