Whenever extraneous noise when the machine is running maximum speed or if minor water leaks appear from below, it is necessary to check the bearings. Replacing this element requires dismantling almost the entire household appliance. How to remove a bearing from a drum washing machine? First, it is better to theoretically study the whole process by watching a few videos on YouTube, and then start disassembling it.

The set of tools for dismantling a washing machine does not depend on its model; you will need:

• two screwdrivers (slotted and cross);
• pliers or round nose pliers;
• open-end wrenches;
• set of heads;
• star key 17x19;
• rubber mallet and copper-plated hammer;
• steel drift or long pin;
• sealant, WD-40 lubricant;
• special puller.

The last device in the list is necessary to remove the housing without damaging bearings. It is used when lubricating the latter, when special care is needed.

Advice! Buy a puller universal type- it is suitable for all types of bearings used in household appliances.

After selecting the tool, unplug the machine and install it so that there is good approach- this will make disassembly easier for you.

Disassembling the tank

IN different models and brands of washing machines, disassembly is carried out differently, but we omit all the nuances. Detailed instructions can be obtained from videos. So, the tank has been dismantled - now the task is to get it out drum to get to the immediate location of the bearings.

In the case when it consists of two halves, it is already simpler: just unscrew the fastening screws or bolts and remove the latches. But some manufacturers save on fasteners, gluing glue both halves with a special composition of glue - in this case you will have to pick up a hacksaw.

Dismantling technology

After carrying out all the operations to separate the tank into two halves, we proceed to replacing the bearing, following these recommendations:

1. First, you need to unscrew the pulley mounting bolt using an asterisk; some craftsmen use a hammer and chisel.
2. Shaking from side to side, we remove pulley housing to get to the location of parts requiring replacement.
3. Using a rubber mallet, knock out drum shaft to disconnect the tank.
4. You must first remove it using a puller. small bearing and then big.

During this process, it is necessary to remember that the puller's paws should exert pressure on the inner race, and only minimal pressure on the external load.

If the replaced bearing goes to recycling, then you don’t have to be particularly careful: just knock it out with a hairpin and a copper hammer.

After that we lubricate internal surfaces where the bearings were seated WD-40 lubricant or equivalent, wipe them with a clean cloth, removing all dirt. The new kit should be ready, you will learn how to install it from the attached video:

Why replacement is needed

When found malfunction bearing assembly requires them urgent replacement, because delay is fraught with the following rather unpleasant consequences:

1. The body is falling apart- the outer ring remains in the tank, and the inner ring on the drum shaft.
2. The bearing ring can be removed from the tank only with the help of a specially sharpened tool; you cannot do without a specialist - there is a high probability tank damage, with its subsequent replacement.
3. When the ring where the oil seal is located breaks, or the wear of the shaft as a result of beating of the bearing housing is too great, you will have to replace the crosspiece or the whole drum.

Do not delay replacing bearings. If you can’t do it yourself, call a professional; if you hesitate, repair washing machine will cost you much more.

Briefly about prices

When you realize that changing bearings is inevitable, then you should not despair, even if you are not able to do it yourself. IN service companies such repairs will not cost you that much:

• for front-loading machines - 1-2 thousand rubles;
• for vertical - 1500 rub.;
• replacement in the forecastle - from 2 thousand rubles.

Prices by region may differ, but not by much; exact prices can be found in the service centers of your city.

If bearing failure leads to water leakage, then the heating element may burn out, then the cost of repairs increases. Worst option - the electronics system will burn out, then buying a new machine is inevitable, the old one is only suitable for disassembling for spare parts.

One of the most frequent breakdowns washing machine, is bearing failure. In this case, increased noise appears in the spin mode, knocking, beating of the drum.

If you find that the bearing in your washing machine has failed, then it is highly undesirable to delay replacement.

Its fragments and parts of the destroyed oil seal can lead to other more serious damage, such as damage to the motor, brass bushing, control board.

Repairing them will not cost much less than purchasing a new washing machine. It should be noted that the principle of bearing replacement is the same for machines from LG, Samsung, Zanussi, Atlant, Ardo, BEKO, Indesit and other common brands.

How to remove

During the repair process, you should adhere to the recommendations below so as not to damage the equipment even more, since in this situation there is a possibility that even an experienced technician will no longer be able to help you.

However, if you are sure that you can handle it, stock up on tools. So, let's start disassembling.

We will need:

Disassembly steps:

How to knock out a shaft

The drum must be kept suspended, the shaft must point upward. A steel plate is placed on the end of the shaft.

The hammer delivers precise, sharp blows. The shaft should come out, and the broken bearing will remain in the tank sleeve.

If the inner ring faulty bearing If we can’t remove it, we’ll use a grinder. The oil seal can be pulled out using a wide screwdriver or an adjustable wrench. We grab the edge of the oil seal and use the tool as a lever. Take a hammer and remove the bearing. You need to hit at an angle.

After this, we carefully examine the bushing for rust and burrs, and if we find any, we need to remove them with fine sandpaper. If dents or unevenness occur, the entire crosspiece will need to be replaced.

Installation of a new spare part

Let's estimate new bearing on the shaft It should fit very tightly.

If it fits freely, the crosspiece needs to be replaced.

For convenience, you can use the outer ring of the previously removed bearing as an extension and carefully hammer in the new one. Lubricate the oil seal generously with lithol and put it in place.

Place both parts of the tank with the cut side up. On any of them, along the cut line, we put points with a marker at intervals of 10 cm. At the points, we drill holes with a diameter of 3 mm.

We bring together the parts of the tank. Through the holes of the first half of the tank we mark points on the second and drill in the same way. Apply sealant to the seam, bring the halves together, and secure them with self-tapping screws. Remove excess sealant. The tank is installed in the reverse order of disassembly and dismantling.

As a rule, the bearing fails due to overload of the drum and due to scale deposits. Correct operation And preventive measures will save you from this trouble.

Watch the video in which a specialist explains in detail how to remove the bearing from the drum of an Indesit washing machine:

Normal operation of the washing machine is accompanied by a monotonous hum as the drum rotates, creating its own unique melody. If suddenly appeared extraneous sounds, in the form of a whistle, rumble and other incomprehensible noise - it’s worth checking the bearings.

Open the door. There is a gap between the drum and the tank. If the drum has big play, then it is possible that the drum bearings or the oil seal are damaged. Find out in advance original numbers set of drum bearings, oil seal, tank gasket. Call service center or a specialized store, indicate the model of the machine.

Disassembling the washing machine components

For self-repair will be needed minimum set tool:

Adhesive tape, a set of sockets, screwdrivers, a multimeter, copper wire with insulation, a set of nylon clamps. Perhaps in the process of work, something else will be needed.

• Turn off the power supply and disconnect the inlet and drain hoses. Remove the top panel, remove the two 6mm screws on the back of the machine and remove the cover. Then pull out the dispenser drawer detergents press the latch and move the dispenser to the side.
• Then pull out the detergent dispenser drawer, press the latch, and move the dispenser to the side. Remove the control panel. It is secured with 3 screws. Move to the side and take a photo. Tape the panel to the top of the machine to avoid disconnecting the electronics. Attention! Lay out the removed parts in a certain order; it is advisable to film the repair process on your phone or camera. Useful for assembly.
• Next, remove the lower decorative panel and disconnect the drain hose. Then unscrew the front panel screws, 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom, open the door and remove the clamping wire clamp from the door cuff, remove the cuff and remove the two screws, see photo.
• Now slightly lift and remove the front panel, set it aside.
• Remove the clamp from the detergent tray and attach the tray to the top of the machine. There are 2 more hoses that fit to it, but they don’t interfere.
• Next, use a 13 mm socket to unscrew the screws of the counterweights, usually consisting of 2 parts, and put them aside. See photo.

• Access will open to the wiring harness of the electric heater panel - heating element. Let's sketch the position of the connectors or take a photo and release the harness. Unscrew the heating element's fastening nut, but not all the way, lightly press the screw and pull out the heating element.
• Disconnect the hose and wiring harness from the tank, drain the remaining water from the hose, proceed to rear screen washing machine.
• We remove the screen, the engine will open, remove the belt from the pulley.
• Before removing the engine, let's sketch or photograph the engine connector block, remove the engine, and then the tank itself, which is held on the car frame on top by springs and below by shock absorbers. We release the lower ones, and then remove the tank along with the drum. Be careful, there may still be something left unconnected! Release.
• Disconnect the door cuff (this is a kind of adapter module, almost spaceship!). The cuff is pressed against the drum with a spring clamp, pry it up, but do not tear the cuff, remove and turn the drum over so that it is convenient to remove the pulley.
• Unscrew the 13 mm bolt on the pulley shaft with a 13 mm head, remove the pulley, screw the bolt back in, but not all the way, and then hit the screw head with a rubber hammer, the shaft will move down. Place something soft inside so as not to damage the drum plastic if the shaft falls.

Most machine models have a detachable tank, which is connected with studs and plastic clips. If the tank turns out to be one-piece, then it is separated by sawing, which of course will complicate the work. In this case, order this unit assembled.

1. Separate the tank halves. Release the drum.
2. Place the rear half of the tank on wooden blocks and use a chisel to knock out the outermost small bearing.
3. Turn this tank half over and knock out the large (front) bearing. Be careful not to damage the bearing seats!
4. After knocking out the bearings, start cleaning the drum and tank. Insert the new bearings into their original seat and gently tap the bearing into the seat along the outside of the race (in the direction of the arrow). Apply the blow in a circle evenly and without distortion.
5. Place the new seal on top and turn the tank over to install the outer bearing.

Lubricate the seat and install the bearing from the outside, gently tapping the outer edge of the race.

1. Now reassemble in reverse order. Make sure the drum shaft is intact. There are models with a cross that can be removed and replaced along with the shaft. But sometimes the drum and shaft assembly are completely replaced.

When assembling the tank, check the seal between the tank halves; you may have to install a new one. Coat the area indicated by the arrow with sealant around the entire circumference. See photo.

During the assembly process, all hose connections are checked for leaks so that the machine does not have to be disassembled again. Use a multimeter to check the connector contacts. Without sufficient experience and skill, it is difficult to cope with such repairs, but knowledge of the process will not prevent you from making a call and maintaining a conversation about repairs.

If your bearing in your washing machine is humming or has completely “fallen apart,” then replacing it is simply necessary so that the machine can continue to function, because as a result, the drum will begin to dangle and subsequently other components of the machine will deteriorate. If you do not change the bearing in time, then the operation of such a machine can cause consequences that will force you to change the entire washing machine.

If you decide to replace, then you have two options:

• Calling a repairman and entrusting the job to a professional is the most convenient option, which guarantees you that all the work will be done correctly (subject to the professionalism of the master) and in as soon as possible. But how much does it cost to change a bearing in a washing machine today? The numbers can actually scare off many, because the cost of repairs can range from 30 to 50% of the cost of a new washing machine.
• If the cost of repairs is high for you or you think that this work can be done independently, then this information will be useful for you.

Here we will go through all the stages of repair step by step.

Preparation for repair

Before you begin directly repairing the washing machine, you need to prepare necessary tool and spare parts that we will replace.
From the tool we will need:

• Regular metal hammer
• Set of open-end wrenches of different sizes
• Pliers
• Metal rod
• Screwdrivers (phillips and slotted)
• Silicone sealant.
• Special waterproof lubricant for washing machine bearings (in as a last resort lithol)
• Camera or phone with a camera - during the process of disassembling the washing machine, we recommend taking photographs of all the parts that you are going to disassemble so that the assembly process is as simple as possible.

Required spare parts for repairs
Of the spare parts for repairs, we will need two bearings and an oil seal, which we need to buy. For more confidence in the right purchase For spare parts, you can first disassemble the washing machine, remove the old bearings and oil seal, and then use the numbers on them to find originals or analogues on the Internet. Or find stores that sell spare parts for washing machines, and based on the brand of your machine, they will select the necessary parts for you.


Try to buy original spare parts, they guarantee you a long service life. Also, only buy bearings that are designed for washing machines (they are usually sealed).

Don't want to bother with so much complex repairs your washing machine? and choose the best new washing machine for yourself.

Disassembling the washing machine

If everything is ready, then you can start disassembling the washing machine.

Removing the top cover
In order to remove it, you need to open two self-tapping screws located on the back wall of the unit, then slide the cover back and lift it. We remove the removed cover to the side. As you can see, it is very easy to remove.

Remove the top and bottom panels
After top cover removed, we proceed to remove the upper instrument panel. But, before you start unscrewing it, remove the powder tray: to do this, pull it out and press the special plastic button while simultaneously pulling it towards you. Set it aside.

To remove dashboard you need to unscrew several screws: different machines have different numbers of them and they are located in different places, but definitely some of the screws are in the place from where you pulled out the powder receptacle, and another one is located with right side washing machine. Unscrew them all, after which you can remove the top panel.


As you will see, there is a control board installed on it, connected by wires that will not allow you to remove it completely. To disconnect the entire panel, you will need to remove all the chips and wires from the sockets, and then set the top panel aside.

Mark the chips and their corresponding slots with a marker or something else so that when assembling you do not mix them up.

Alternatively, you can not disconnect the wires, but leave the panel hanging, but this is not very convenient and you can accidentally break the wiring.

Now let's start removing the bottom panel: if you clean regularly drain valve, then you probably know how to do this, but if not, then we will tell you how to do it. To remove the bottom panel, you need to use a screwdriver or other flat object to press down on the latches that hold it in place and pull it out.

Next we need to remove the cuff, which prevents us from removing the entire front panel of the washing machine. The cuff is an elastic band, one end of which is put on the tank, and the other on the front panel, and it is all secured with a clamp, which we need to remove. Run your hand along the perimeter of the elastic and feel for the small spring that connects the ends of the clamp, or find it visually. Next, pry it up with a flat-head screwdriver and pull it out along with the clamp.


After this, remove the front edge of the cuff and tuck it inside the tank.

Close the washing machine hatch. Locate the bottom and top of the front panel for several screws holding it in place. Unscrew them, after which the front panel will only be held on a small special hook. Now remove the front panel, but very carefully, because it is connected by a wire to the rest of the washing machine.

Once you remove the front panel, disconnect the wire going to the loading hatch lock by removing the chip. After this, move the panel aside.

Disconnect all parts from the washing machine tank
Now we need to remove the top panel along with the powder receiver box, which is located under the control panel that we removed earlier. To do this, you need to unscrew the bolts on the back of the washing machine that hold the fill valve, since it will be removed along with the panel.

Now we need to disconnect the drain pipe from the washing machine tank; to do this, unscrew the clamp and remove it.

There may be water left in the pipe that will flow after it is removed, so have a rag ready.

Next, we disconnect all the wires that go to the heating element; it can be located either in front or behind the washing machine, so if necessary, unscrew the back cover.


Also, the wiring can be attached to the tank using ties or wire. You need to disconnect it at all points where it is attached to the tank. Also disconnect the wires from the motor, since we will be removing it from outside the washing machine. If desired, you can disconnect the remaining wiring from the pump and pull it out so that it does not interfere with the removal of the tank.

Now we unscrew the lower and upper counterweights so that they do not add weight to the tank and it is easier for us to remove it. Counterweights can be located both in front and behind the machine.

We disconnect the pipe going to the water level sensor and you can begin to unscrew the shock absorbers of the washing machine. To do this, we find the lower bolts that hold the shock absorbers and unscrew them using a wrench.

To unscrew the shock absorber bolts, it is more convenient to use a socket with an extension.

Now we have the tank hanging only on springs, and we can remove it, but do it very carefully so as not to drop it. The tank without counterweights is quite light; lift it from the inside with one hand, and with the other, unhook the springs on which it weighs and pull the tank out.

You will remove the tank along with the engine, which must also be unscrewed, but before that, remove the belt. Next, we unscrew the engine itself, as well as the shock absorbers that are left hanging on the tank.


Now we can begin to disassemble the tank and replace the bearings in it.

Disassembling the washing machine tank

To get to the bearing we need to divide the tank into two halves and pull out the drum. Both halves of the tank are fastened either with special latches or with bolts that are located along the entire perimeter of the tank. Therefore, either disconnect the latches or unscrew the bolts and disconnect the front half of the tank. You can clean it of debris if you wish before putting it back together.


We begin to disconnect the drum from the back of the tank; to do this we need to remove the pulley. Using a wrench, unscrew one bolt that holds the pulley to the drum axis, then remove it from the axis and move it to the side. And we screw the bolt that we unscrewed all the way back into the shaft, so that when knocking out the drum, we do not damage the shaft itself.


Next, use a regular hammer to knock on the shaft with a little force, trying to knock it out. If the shaft moves a little, then we continue in the same spirit. If the force is already great, but the shaft does not give in, then it is better to unscrew standard bolt and replace it with any other that you wouldn’t mind throwing away, because if great effort the bolt may become deformed. As soon as the shaft is sunk to the bolt head, unscrew the bolt and pull the drum out of the back wall of the washing machine tank.

Inspect the bushing and the shaft itself located on the drum. If you delay the repair, then they could wear out and then you will also have to change the cross, which significantly affects the cost of the repair. In order to check the integrity of the shaft, wipe it well with a rag and look for wear on it. To be sure, take new bearings and place them on the shaft. After this, check that there is not even the slightest play in the bearing. If there is play, then you need to replace the crosspiece with the shaft.


Also check the bushing that is located on the shaft and on which the oil seal fits; it should also not have strong wear or transverse grooves. If the wear is high, the oil seal will leak water and the new bearing will quickly fail.

Replacing a bearing in a washing machine

Having finished with the shaft, we proceed directly to replacing the bearings in the washing machine. They are located, as you might have guessed, in the rear wall of the drum and they need to be pulled out, but before that, let's remove the oil seal.

To remove the seal from the back wall of the washing machine, take a flat-head screwdriver and pry it off.

Now we need to knock out both bearings; to do this, we insert a metal rod as thick as a pencil and hit it with a sharp, confident movement with a hammer, moving it to different sides of the bearing, cross to cross. This way we knock out both bearings.


The small bearing is knocked out from the inside of the tank, the large one is knocked out from the outside.

The washing machine tank is quite fragile, so it is best to knock out the bearing by resting it on your knee to prevent the tank from breaking.

After you have knocked out the bearings, you need to clean the back cover itself and the bearing seats. There should not be the slightest dirt left in them, and they should simply sparkle with cleanliness.
Now let's remove the new bearings from the packaging. First, we insert a small bearing and also, while inserting the rod, hammer it in, moving the rod on different sides of the bearing cross to cross. Drive the bearing until it stops, when the bearing “sits” in place, the sound from the impact will become louder.


Continue in the same way, but on the other side of the tank, hammer in a large bearing.

After this, we “fill” the oil seal with a special waterproof lubricant and insert it into place. You can lightly hammer the seal with a hammer in the same way as a bearing, but be extremely careful not to damage it.

It is best to use a specialized waterproof lubricant, but if you were unable to get it, then you can use Litol-24, which can be found in any automobile store.

Reassembling the washing machine

After the bearings and oil seal are in place, lubricate the bushing on the tank shaft with grease and install it in place, that is, stick it into the back cover.
Now we need to connect the halves of the tank, but before that it is advisable to change sealing gum. If this is not possible, then you can simply fill the groove along with the gasket in a circle with a small layer of sealant, and then connect the halves of the tank.


Now all we have to do is assemble the washing machine in reverse order; the photographs you took during the disassembly process will help you with this. You made them, didn't you?
We also recommend that you watch the video instructions for replacing bearings on a Samsung washing machine, which will help you more clearly understand the entire repair process.

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The moving parts of an automatic machine wear out most often, so after several years of operation the equipment requires repair. Typical breakdown All models are bearing wear. They are seated on the shaft and ensure uniform rotation of the drum. How to determine the malfunction and remove the bearing from the drum without a puller? Details repair work are described in the article.

Causes and signs of failure

IN washing machines you can find a metal wheel bearing. Less common are two-layer parts, which are made of metal inside and covered with protective plastic on top. This type is more expensive and lasts longer.

You can diagnose the wear of the moving elements by listening to the operation of the machine. Rumble, rattle, strong vibration during spinning - a direct indicator for repair. Open the hatch door and move the drum up and down by hand. If play has formed between it and the tank, this also indicates wear of the parts.

The oil seal serves as a seal and protects the internal components from moisture. It is recommended to change it every 4–5 years of service.

If the seal loses its tightness, water washes the lubricant out of the bearing, which leads to wear. At the same time, rusty streaks are visible on the back wall of the tank.

Before removing and replacing parts, prepare a tool to remove the bearings from the washing machine. You will need:

• Set of slotted and Phillips screwdrivers.
• Pliers.
• Nut wrenches (17 and 19).
• Socket wrenches 7 and 13 mm.
• Rubber mallet.
• Bit.
• Lubrication.

If you have a universal puller available, then you can use it.

How to remove a bearing from a washing machine?

First you need to remove the tank from the washing machine. First disconnect the equipment from the network and close the inlet valve. Turn off communications.

Disassembling the machine is carried out in several stages:

• Dismantling of panels. Remove the top, back and front covers.
• Disconnect everything that is attached to the tank. Behind this: drive belt, heating element, engine.

• In the front: counterweights, drain pipe.

• Top: intake valve, pressure switch tube, powder receiver hopper and its pipes.
• Lastly, the shock absorber mounts are removed.

How to remove the tank from the housing:

• Lift it up, removing it from the springs.
• Remove from the case and place on a flat surface.

Before knocking the bearing out of the drum, it is necessary to disassemble the tank. It consists of two parts. Depending on the SMA model, the halves can be fastened with bolts and latches, or they can be glued together. In the latter case, the task becomes more complicated.

Start disassembling:

• Immediately you need to dismantle the pulley attached to the rear wall.
• To do this, place a wrench on the central bolt and unscrew it. If it won't budge easily or come off, spray the bolt with WD-40. Tap it with a hammer through a block.
• Next, unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the tank. If it is glued, you will have to use a hacksaw. Sawing is carried out evenly in a circle. Be careful not to damage the drum.

Now you need to remove half of the tank from the shaft. It comes out along with the drum. Place a block of wood on the shaft and tap it with a hammer until the drum falls out.

You're left with half a tank of parts that need to be replaced. How to remove the bearing from the SM hub:

• Use a flat screwdriver to pry up the oil seal and move it to the side.
• Place a chisel on the inner race of the bearing. Tap the chisel evenly and lightly with the hammer. It is important to move around the outer ring. Otherwise, the inner race will pop out and the question will arise: how to remove the outer race.

• After the part is removed, clean seat remove scale with fine sandpaper, wipe with a dry rag.

Inspect the shaft and crosspiece carefully. They are also cleaned of scale and rust. If damaged, you will have to completely remove the cross from the drum and replace it.

If the bearing does not come out, spray the seat with WD-40. Let stand for 20-30 minutes. At long-term operation the details stick to the spot.

How to remove a clip internal bearing . Some models have two moving parts. One is planted deep into the hole, the other outside. The ring is knocked out in the same way, moving in a circle. It is wise to immediately replace all spare parts, including seals. During further installation, lubricate the outer ring of the elements with lubricant. This will make them easier to press into the socket.

A video on the topic will help you understand the features of the repair: https://youtu.be/xSsfNO3N9yM

The tank halves are assembled in reverse order. If the parts were sawn, then drill holes in them for self-tapping screws in advance, and additionally fasten them along the edges with sealant.