How to adjust the grip of the VAZ. How to adjust the clutch on the VAZ? VAZ 2106 Coupling Tone

Welcome!
Adjusting the clutch - thanks to this small procedure, you can reduce the risk of wear of the clutch details such as the release disk, but only if the clutch is not configured if it is configured, with its proper operation, the risk of wear of the clutch details and will be minimal with moderate driving. Therefore, if your clutch is not adjusted, then we recommend you to familiarize yourself with this instruction. In order for you to adjust it later.

Note!
To adjust, you will need to stock: the main set of wrench keys, as well as for more correct adjustment, it is recommended to take a ruler or a square with you.
As well as it will also be necessary to take advantage of: Passatias and ticks of the species of "Cobra"!

Summary:

Where is the working and main clutch cylinder, at the expense of the clutch adjustment?

The working cylinder can be easily seen looking under the bottom of the car, it is located one end on the gearbox itself and the other end is inserted into the clutch plug, see more detail about the location of the working cylinder, see the photo below:

The main cylinder is located in the cutting space of the car, in order to see it, it does not make sense under the bottom of the car, because after opening the hood you can easily see it.

When do you need to adjust the clutch?
The grip is adjustable when a very significant backlash appears when the clutch pedal is pressed, or with the absence of a backlash, for a notic! The initial free course of the pedal should be "0.4 - 2.0 mm", if it is greater or less, then, in this case, adjust the system.

Note!
And also measure the free stroke of the clutch pedal before it is turned off, which should be laid in the norm - "25 - 35 mm"!

A still system must be adjusted if between the pusher is specified by the red arrow and the clutch fork which is indicated by the blue arrow, completely disappeared or it exceeds "4-5 mm", check this move very easy to do with hand for the clutch fork as shown In the figure, and then shook the fork from the side to the side.

Note!
In fact, this operation can not be carried out, and it is best to focus on checking the free move of the clutch pedal, because as a rule, if it is normal, then the free course of the pusher and the clutch plug is also most likely normal. But still, if you want to check the plug, then check it and otherwise because of the large free move in the fork will be a permanent load of the release bearing, because of which it may come into disrepair in the near future, in connection with which it will have to be replaced!

How to adjust the clutch on the VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Introduction!
Before proceeding with the adjustment, you need to explain to you in more detail at the expense of the clutch is adjusted, for this read important information just below:

First, the clutch can be adjusted from the car's salon, for this, the bracket is installed on the host pedal itself on which the pusher is installed (indicated by the letter "A") of the main clutch cylinder, and due to this pusher and nuts that are located on it, you can adjust the gap between the pusher itself and the piston of the main clutch cylinder.

Note!
From the car's salon, the clutch is adjustable only for the initial free move of the pedal, that is, the initial free course of the clutch pedal should be "0.4 - 2.0 mm", if it is less than it or it is not at all, then adjust it at the expense of the pusher nuts Under the letter "A" in the photo above!

Secondly, the clutch is adjustable to the other of the car, but in this case it is necessary to measure the free stroke of the pusher of the clutch plug that is indicated by the letter "B", and it is adjusted within 4-5 mm.

Adjusting the free stroke of the clutch pedal:

Note!
The free stroke of the clutch pedal is adjustable not only by adjusting the pusher of the main clutch cylinder, but also by adjusting the pusher of the working brake cylinder. Therefore, for more accurate adjustments, we recommend that you also adjust the free process of the pusher of the working cylinder. (How to adjust the free stroke of the pusher, see in the heading: "")

1) First Being in the car's cabin, using a wrench of the specified "1", hold the stroke limiter, and at this point, using the key under the number 2, loosen on 1 to 2 circuit rollers.

Note!
When the correct free pedal course is achieved, again, hold the restrictor wrench and, as a result, tighten the lock nut!

3) Then, with the help of the line, measure the full initial free pedal stroke, for this, press the clutch pedal until the pedal starts pressing with tangible resistance. When the pedal began to press with tangible resistance, then with the help of the line and measure the free course of the pedal that should be "0.4 - 2.0 mm".

Note!
If the free move is violated again, then in this case, make a re-operation for adjusting the length of the pusher with nuts!

Adjustment of the free stroke of the pusher of the clutch fork:

Check:
1) To do this, with the help of passage, disconnect the exhaust spring first from the clutch turning plug, and then completely remove it from the working cylinder.

Note!
The spring is removed only for convenience, because in fact, you can also check and remove the springs, but only in this case when checking the free move you will have to overcome the springs resistance!

2) then either using a ruler or either with the help of a square check the free move of the clutch plug, for this install the coolen first so that its end is fixed that is, rested in something (the most good location for verification is shown in the photo below) .

Next, when the square will be located as it should, click forward until it stops the clutch fork and lock it in this position. Then remember the position of the plug relative to the coal. After memorization, release the plug and thereby measure its free move, which should be within "4 - 5 mm".

Note!
If the free move is broken, then adjust the plug!

Adjustment:

Note!
Due to the fact that the working cylinder is almost under the bottom of the car, mainly it is very polluted or at all the pusher nuts are waiting in connection with which his nuts are practically unrealistic to move away from their own place, so to facilitate work on the nuts you can sprinkle any Lubricant for example "WD-40", to relieve work!

1) First use two wrench, one of which hold the adjusting nut under the letter "A", and at the other at this time, loosen the lock nut under the letter "B".

2) Then ticks of the type of "Cobra" lock the push from its turning (the place is indicated by the letter "A"), and then loosen the lock nut "B" to 1 - 2 turns.

Note!
After all completed operations, be sure to check that the free course of the clutch pedal corresponds to the norm!

Final clutch check for performance!

1) At the beginning, turn on the neutral transmission in the gearbox. Then get the car and wait for the engine warms up to the operating temperature. Further on the lowest revisions in which the engine is running, squeeze the clutch, and as a result, turn on the rear gear.

Note!
The rear transmission in this case should you turn on without a cutting and knocking or any other noise noises!

2) Now it will be possible to try another test, for this, when overclocking on the car, try to include each transmission at that moment when it is necessary if the transmissions will be turned on without a crossroads and a knock that in this case the clutch is properly.

3) And in conclusion, try to draw your attention to the acceleration of the car, that is, the car during acceleration should accelerate normally, there should be such a click on the speed pedal in the red zone and the car does not go.

Note!
This example indicates that the clutch is dropped!

If this test did not give any results and the clutch is still not correct, then try it first to pump the clutch, and if it does not help, then, in this case, remove and, as a result, repaired the clutch replacing it with its parts replant. (How to pump a clutch, see Article: "Pumping clutch by car")

Additional video clip:
About how to adjust the free stroke of the pusher fork, you can also learn from the video clip that is below:

In the clutch drive in a classic vase with an original basket, native extrusion and with a conventional working cylinder should be a gap between the pusher (stem) of the working cylinder and the clutch fork. This clearance is required, since the release bearing is not intended for permanent operation and constant rotation. With a missing gap, the bearing will constantly rest in the petals of the basket, rotate that over time will result in the emission of its lubricant and overheating. Through the short time of such a work, the bearing is embrozed. In the presence of a gap, the bearing works only when we squeeze the clutch. When the clutch pedal is released, the bearing must stop. That is why it is important to know how to adjust the grip of the VAZ.

Verification of clearance

Before checking the gap, you must remove the exhaust spring. If the adhesion is too tight, this spring can be completely dismantled. This spring is used to pull the clutch plug, which does not give the release bearing in contact with the basket. But, of course, more correctly, that this spring is in its place.
Proper clutch adjustment is achieved by a gap of 4-5 millimeters. Of course, the maximum accuracy is not required, the main thing, the plug should be in a free position. For example, in order to touch the pedal, the pedal includes the clutch at the very bottom of the pedal, this gap can be slightly increased. And, accordingly, on the contrary, that the pedal will work before, the gap must be reduced. But the pusher and the fork must necessarily be in a free position, in no case in a stretched, otherwise the release bearing will come into disrepair.

With incorrect clutch adjustment (if the plug is tensioned by the pusher constantly, and the frosting rests on the basket).

In this case, the first thing is to check the adjustment of the clutch, but if it does not help, change the Disk Ferodo.

Adjustment

In order to set the rod, it is necessary to detect two nuts at 17 and 13.
Holding the rod, tighten the nut - we increase the clearance, unscrew - reduce it.
By one nut regulate the gap, another control the design in the desired position.
If necessary, we return the spring to the place.
Check the clutch clutch, and in motion.

The main task in this procedure is the excerpt of the free move, that is, the gap so that the release bearing is not burned during constant rotation. Modern baskets are already going without a gap, they have a design, and it is simply not needed there, since it replaces the working self-expiding cylinder. But this option does not go from the factory and is not common.

Video

Useful tips on adjusting the clutch on the classics are looking for in the next video:

The grip is one of the main components of the car transmission. Thanks to the speeds, the speeds are shifted, the loads from the engine are removed and the oscillations are quenched. The quality ride on the car depends on its proper adjustment. The article describes the unit of the node, its functions, the principle of operation, the recommendations are given how to adjust the clutch.

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Coupling structure and functions

The link between the engine and transmission is grip. Its purpose is to turn off and connect the primary shaft of the gearbox gearbox from the crankshaft flywheel. In machines with manual transmission transmission, only in the case when the clutch pedal (PS) is completely squeezed. At this moment there is no connection between the flywheel and the gearbox, and the torque is not transmitted.

This vehicle assembly consists of the following components:

Flywheel. This element takes the torque and transmits it over the gearbox. The basket joins the flywheel.
The slave and pressure disk. These details are closely related. Their contact depends on the position of the PS located in the car.
Switching plug. With it, disk disconnection occurs.
Primary gearbox shaft. This element is transmitted torque.

Construction of a node car

These are the main details. In addition to them, the node includes:

damper springs mitigating vibration;
casing;
friction overlays, dressed on the slave disk to mitigate the friction between the flywheel and the basket.

The pressure disk is interconnected with the flywheel and constantly rotates with him. For the transmission of rotation in the slave disk there is a slotted clutch, which inserted the primary shaft of the PPC.

The gear shift is carried out through the pedal as follows:

pressure plug is transmitted through the drive system;
the plug is engaged in the release bearing and its clutch to the release springs of the pressure disk;
under the pressure of the bearing of the paw (frosting springs), the baskets disconnect it at time from the flywheel;
after switching speeds, the pedal is released, the bearing ceases to put pressure on the springs and the basket again contacts the flywheel.

Nodes can be one-piece and multi-disc. Multi-disc nodes are usually installed on the automatic box.

Scheme and drive adjustment

The following types of drives can be installed on cars:

mechanical;
hydraulic;
electric.

In order for the mechanical transmission longer to serve, you must smoothly release the pedal when switching gear.

When must be carried out adjusting the clutch?

Clutch adjustment is performed periodically. Over time, the pedal stroke increases and the disconnection occurs not to the end. Thus, with the maximum pressed PS, there is no complete shutdown of the shafts, and they remain in contact with the engine, which increases the load on the teeth and reduces the service life of the node.

With an insufficiently free progress, the PS does not fully include the slave disk. As a result, when driving, not the entire torque is transmitted, in this case the car loses power. In addition, even with smooth release of the PS, the slave disc can be sharply turned on, while noise will be heard in the transmission, the machine will twitch.

Diagnose that adjustment is required, on the following features:

jerks or blows at the beginning of the movement;
placing PS;
pS has an insufficient free course;
there is a leak of fluid from the drive system;
there is an extraneous noise when switching transmissions.

Determine the need to regulate the PS simply. It is necessary to measure the distance from the floor to the pedal, it should be approximately 16 centimeters.

Practical Adjustment Guide

Mechanical clutch is adjustable using its drive. To do this, in the pumproom space, it is necessary to find a cable at the end of which a bolt with a lock nut. Turning the adjusting nut, you need to ensure that the free passage of the pedal is 12-13 cm. To increase the progress of the PS, the nut should be twisted, to reduce the stroke, the nut needs to be twisted. Then it follows three times to press the PS and measure the distance between the pedal and the floor. Clutch adjustment is carried out until the required distance is reached.

Adjust the drive cable

If the procedure is performed after replacing the node, then it is necessary to control that there is no air in the hydraulic system. If it is present, it must be removed by blowing the system.
The essence of regulation is to establish the necessary gaps between the rod and the piston of the main cylinder of the node. In addition, the required distances are installed between the clocking ring of the pressure disk and the release bearing.

In order to adjust the hydraulic drive, it is necessary to remove the spring from the bracket of the main cylinder and fork. Next, the gaps should be measured between the pusher and the release fork. This distance should be about 5 mm. By unscrewing or twisting the adjusting nut on the cylinder rod, it is necessary to achieve the free move of the plug to be 5 mm.

This procedure is carried out on simple systems and is shown as an example. There are other clutch drive systems. To properly adjust the node, it is better to refer to the instruction manual for the car. The quality of the vehicle movement depends on the correctness of the adjustment.

What is a grip? The mechanism on which the smooth flow of the car and the soft switching of speeds during the external examination of the machine into the eye is almost not rushed. About its presence, the driver remembers the pedal located near the left leg. This mechanism is called clutch. When you click on the pedal, the clutch turns off, the foot is removed from it - the clutch is turned on. Thanks to this simple mechanism, the driver can interrupt the connection of the engine with a transmission at any time. When the adaptation of the clutch is well debugged, it allows the car to smoothly move from the place, without jerks to type the desired pace, calmly switch the speeds, slowing down or having reduced the move machine.

On Russian cars, the so-called "dry clutch" is traditionally established, one-piece. However, on separate stamps, for example, "Niva", a hydraulic drive is used in the clutch. The clutch drive is perhaps the most vulnerable place in the mechanism and requires adjustment.

We check the technical condition

This mechanism needs to be diagnosed much less often than the steering part or brakes. But from time to time it is necessary to check its condition. Any violations and failures in the clutch are fraught with serious consequences, especially if the car is away from service centers or any other place where the driver will assist and bring cars to the "living" state. The car can just stop and for its move is no longer going, or its mobility will be only partial. The causes of failures can be the wear of one friction lining in the slave disk or several minutes, and the breakdown of the driven disk itself - from a long service life, etc.

How to understand whether the clutch is needed?

when the driver wants to start smoothly, and the car begins to twitch, impaired shocks, jerks;
the clutch pedal under the foot is chosen;
the inclusion of the transfer is accompanied by a special characteristic noise.

You can test the condition and thus: start the motor, then, without hurrying, remove the leg with the pedal of clutch and move. The instant start of movement indicates that there is no free move. And if the car remained standing even when the pedal was completely released, therefore, its move is greater than the norm. Now you should take a conventional line and measure the floor space in the car to the rubber pedal overlay. Ideally should be 160 millimeters. If the distance is greater, i.e. The pedal is above the specified limit, adjustment of the pedal of clutch and drive is necessary.

Samodelkin lessons

You can bring the clutch to a normal operating state by adjusting its drive, more precisely, the adjusting bolt. It is under the hood, at the end of the cable. It is difficult to make a mistake: this bolt is fastened with locknuts.

Adjusting the clutch is performed by debugging the progress of the clutch pedal. It should be in the limit of 120-T-130 millimeters. To increase the course, you need to tighten the nut on the tip, and so that the pedal move is to reduce - the nut is unscrewed.

When the debugging is completed, you should click on the pedal three times, and then again measure the floor from the floor to the pedal site. If it still does not match the desired parameters, the clutch adjustment must be continued.

If the hydraulic clutch, the technology of its debugging is somewhat different. It should be remembered that the pusher's release plug must defend at a distance of about 5 millimeters. To establish such a length, the spring from the bracket in the working cylinder with a fork is removed, and the adjusting nut from the cylinder rod is spinning or unscrewed so that the plug is free to move at least 5 millimeters.

Note

Getting started to adjust the clutch mechanism, it is necessary to carefully examine the vehicle of your car. Depending on the machine model, various modifications of this mechanism can also be.

On vehicles VAZ of the tenth family, regardless of the volume of the engine and the type of gas distribution mechanism (8 or 16 valves), a mechanical clutch drive is used. Unlike classic zhiguli, where the hydraulic device of the clutch mechanism is installed, cable drive is easier to maintain and cheaper . He has some disadvantages, but for engines of such a volume and power, these cons of the consumers are practically played. The only thing that may require attention during operation, adjustment of the VAZ-2110 clutch drive.

When the clutch adjustment is required for VAZ-2110

With the wear of the friction linings on the led clutch disc, the free and working stroke of the pedal increases.

This can lead to the fact that the clutch can not be turned off at the end with a completely squeezed pedal. As a result, the clutch will be "news", it is possible to make it difficult when the first and reverse transmission is turned on when transmitting gear on the go. This situation creates an additional load on gears, shafts and synchronizers of the gearbox, which leads to premature wear of the checkpoint.

The plant are stipulated permissible Lufts, Free and Work Structure Pedal Clutchwhich need to be followed during the operation of the car.

Nominal full-working clutch pedal - 120 mm .
Maximum allowable - 160 mm .

The complete stroke of the clutch pedal (until the stop) should be in the range from 120 to 130 mm.

However, up to 160 mm better not to reachSince it threatens with reinforced wear of friction and gearbox elements, and in addition, there may be difficulties with switching and transmission. To measure the course of the clutch pedal, we use the usual ruler. We rest in the floor under the pedal and measure the distance to the rubber lining.

Algorithm of clutch adjustment

For adjustment, we will need only two horned keys on the 13th and the same ruler to control the pedal stroke. If the pedal stroke is more permissible 150-160 mm, proceed to work:

Install the car on a flat pad, tighten the handbrake.
We put the car to the handbrake and open the hood.
Open the hood, we find the release plug on the clutch crankcase, in which the threaded tip of the cable.
The nuts you need are behind the aircraft housing over the clutch crankcase.
The cable is fixed with two nuts. Weakening the locknut, holding the stubborn nut with the key to 13.
So they look like nuts on a new engine and with good lighting.
We release a stubborn nut into several revolutions. We go to the salon and check the course of the pedal, after clicking several times on the pedal.
Let me measure the pedal of the line.
Tightening the stubborn nut, we increase the free course of the pedal, releasing - reducing.
We continue the adjustment until the stroke in the nominal 120 mm is noted.
Spin the lock nut while holding the key to the key.
Tighten the nuts.
Along the way, we estimate the condition of the clutch drive cable. Its replacement will be necessary at traces of explicit external damage.
We conclude a protective corrugated casing until it stops into the plug.
After assessing the condition of the cable, stretch the rubber casing.