Removing and installing the engine. How can two men remove the engine from a “classic” in their garage? Simple instructions! How to remove the engine easier

The electric motor is one of the central links of any washing machine. He is responsible for the drum speed during washing, rinsing and spinning. If the motor stops working, the wash will not start. Therefore, many users are concerned with the question: is it possible to remove the washing machine motor with your own hands in order to repair or replace it?

If you already have repair skills household appliances, then disassembly washing machine It won't seem complicated to you. The main thing is to take into account the type of washing machine, since the motors in this technique can be different: an asynchronous motor without brushes, a regular commutator motor or a direct drive motor.

In this article you will find instructions for dismantling the motor with photos and videos.

In modern washing machines Manufacturers install inverter motors, estimating their performance at 10-15 years. Therefore, such electric motors break down extremely rarely. This means you have a SM with a traditional commutator motor.

Typically these engines suffer from the following breakdowns:

  • The brushes wear out, which leads to a loss of power from the electric motor.
  • It breaks the winding.

  • The lamellas wear out, which also affects the power and stability of the part.

To be 100% sure of the nature of the breakdown, you need to remove the electric motor and check it. It is important to do this correctly so as not to further damage the machine.

Important! The lion's share of all motor breakdowns is caused by brushes. Problems with the winding occur less frequently, and only occasionally the problem concerns the lamellas.

To remove the engine from the washing machine, you should follow a clear procedure, stock up necessary tool and take photos or videos. This is necessary to capture the location of the wires and then put everything back together without any problems.

How to change the motor? Follow the instructions:


Now you can repair the engine (see article “”) or install a new one.

To replace the electric motor with a new one, buy in advance original analogue and install it in reverse order, connecting all wires correctly. After assembling the washer, run a test wash to make sure your actions are correct.

The power unit consists of an engine and gearbox. Remove it using a hydraulic lift or hoist, lowering it from the engine compartment onto the trolley. In this case, the tips of the front wheel drive shafts are disconnected from power unit and remain on the car. Removal and

The power unit consists of an engine and gearbox. Remove it using a hydraulic lift or hoist, lowering it from the engine compartment onto the trolley. In this case, the tips of the front wheel drive shafts are disconnected from the power unit and remain on the vehicle.

Removing and installing the power unit in the following order.

Place the car on a lift and brake it using the parking lever. brake system. Place supports under rear wheels, lift the front wheels and open the hood.

Before removing the power unit, it is necessary to remove the pressure in the fuel supply system. To do this, disconnect the electric fuel pump wiring harness block from the ignition system wiring harness, start the engine, let it run until it stops, and then turn on the starter for 3 seconds to equalize the pressure in the pipelines.

Disconnect the ground wire from the negative terminal of the battery and from the engine.

Disconnect the fuel supply and drain hoses from the pipes on the engine. Cover the openings of the hoses and tubes to prevent dirt from getting into them.

Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle pipe and from the bracket on the receiver.

Removing components and parts of the air supply system: 1 – air filter; 2 – sensor mass flow air; 3 – throttle pipe; 4 – sealing gasket; 5 – receiver; 6 – exhaust pipe of the engine cooling system; 7 – hose clamps; 8 – supply pipe of the coolant pump; 9 – throttle pipe heating hoses; 10 – inlet pipe hose

Loosen the two clamps 7 and remove the intake pipe hose 10 by disconnecting the crankcase ventilation hose from its branch pipe.

Unscrew the nut and disconnect the air intake hose along with the bracket.

Remove air filter 1 with mass air flow sensor 2 by cutting off with a knife the three rubber supports that secure the filter to the body.

Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the receiver to the fuel pressure regulator and to vacuum booster brakes

Disconnect the canister purge hose from the throttle pipe (if the car has a gasoline vapor recovery system).

Disconnect the wires from the throttle body, the ignition module, the injector wiring harness, the starter and generator, all sensors on the powertrain, and the light switch. reverse on the gearbox.

Raise the car on a lift and remove the engine splash guard by unscrewing the bolts securing it to the body.

Drain the coolant by unscrewing drain plugs cylinder block and radiator with the cover removed expansion tank and an open heater tap.

Drain the oil from the gearbox by removing the drain plug.

Disconnect the hoses from the cylinder head pipe and thermostat.

Disconnect the clutch cable from the gearbox.

Frames for slinging the power unit

If the engine is being removed using a hoist, hook the engine to the eyelets mounted on the cylinder head and gearbox. Raise the vehicle on the hoist while tightening the hoist chain so that the power unit remains suspended from the hoist.

Disconnect the gearshift lever drive rod 1 from the gear selector rod joint 3 by unscrewing the clamp bolt 2.

Unscrew and remove the bolts (with conical springs) holding the tightening flanges exhaust pipe and neutralizer. Remove the sealing ring located between the pipe flanges and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the converter.

Front suspension assembly: 1 – upper support of the telescopic strut; 2 – upper support cup; 3 – compression stroke buffer with protective casing; 4 – compression buffer support; 5 – suspension spring; 6 – lower spring support cup; 7 – steering rod ball joint; 8 - rounded fist; 9 – telescopic stand; 10 – eccentric washer; eleven - adjusting bolt; 12 – rack bracket; 13 – steering knuckle; 14 – protective casing front brake; 15 – disk brake mechanism; 16 – retaining ring; 17 – wheel hub nut; 18 – splined shank of the wheel drive hinge housing; 19 – guide pin; 20 – wheel hub bearing; 21 – ball joint; 22 – suspension arm; 23 – adjusting washers; 24 – stabilizer strut; 25 – stabilizer bar; 26 – stabilizer bar cushion; 27 – stabilizer bar mounting bracket; 28 – body bracket for mounting the suspension arm; 29 – suspension arm extension; 30 – bracket for fastening the extension; 31 – protective cover ball pin; 32 – ball pin bearing; 33 – ball pin; 34 – ball pin body; 35 – suspension strut rod; 36 – outer casing top support; 37 – inner body of the upper support; 38 – upper support bearing; 39 – rubber element top support; 40 – travel limiter of the upper support; 41 – protective cap of the upper support; B - zone for monitoring the suspension joint

Unscrew the bolts securing the brackets 30 of the braces 29 of the front suspension arms to the body, loosen the nuts securing the braces to the suspension arms 22 and turn the braces to a position so that they do not interfere with the removal of the power unit. Disconnect the ball joints 21 of the suspension arms from the steering knuckles.

Bottom view of the gearbox: 1 – gear lever drive rod; 2 – clamp; 3 – gear selector rod hinge; 4 – front wheel drive shafts; 5 – gearbox

Remove the lugs from the semi-axial gears of the gearbox internal hinges shafts 4 drive the front wheels and move the shafts to the side. You can remove it with a puller 67.7801.9524 or by sharply hitting the internal joint body with a hammer through a drift.

After disconnecting one of the shafts, secure the side gear with a technological mandrel or plug so that it does not fall into the gearbox housing. After disconnecting the second shaft, also close the hole with a plug.

If the power unit is removed using a special trolley with a hydraulic lift, then move it under the car and lift the hydraulic lift support brackets until they stop against the power unit.

Power unit suspension: 1 – bracket rear suspension; 2 – rear suspension support; 3 – left suspension support; 4 – left suspension bracket; 5 – bracket with front suspension support

Unscrew the bolts securing the suspension mounts of the power unit to the body and lower the power unit with the hydraulic lift down. If a hoist is used, then while moving the hoist chain, carefully lower the power unit onto the trolley.

Install the power unit in the reverse order of removal.

Rubber Mounting Mounts air filter disposable. Therefore, when installing the air filter, install new supports.

After installing the power unit, adjust the accelerator drive. When the accelerator pedal is fully released, the throttle valve should be completely closed. The drive cable must be tensioned. The cable deflection due to hand force should be no more than 10 mm. If necessary, adjust the tension of the drive cable using the adjusting nuts of the cable end.

With the accelerator pedal fully depressed, the throttle valve should be fully open, sector throttle valve should not have an additional move. If necessary, eliminate the additional travel by bending the pedal stop inside the car.

Adjust the clutch release drive according to the instructions in subsection. " Clutch". Check and adjust the angles of the front wheels (see subsection " Front suspension ").

Check the operation of the engine management system as specified in the owner's manual. maintenance and repair of the engine control system with distributed injection fuel.

It is recommended to remove the engine and transmission together as a single power unit and then disconnect the engine from the transmission. The following work is carried out in the same way for all types of engines; additional instructions are given for cars with an automatic transmission. When lifting the power unit, it must be tilted at an angle of 45° to ensure exit from the engine compartment of the transmission. The power unit weighs more than 200 kg, so when removing, special care must be taken not to damage the body surfaces or paintwork.

  • To avoid damage, place on the fenders of the car. protective covers. Release the locking lever on the left hood bracket and lift the hood up until the lever disengages. Then release the locking lever on the right hood bracket. Move the hood to a vertical position. The picture shows the position of the latch.

Rice. Open the hood to a 90° position

  • Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and remove the battery along with the mounting frame.
  • Open the cooling system plug. The coolant temperature should not exceed 90°C.
  • Remove the coolant drain plug on the right and left sides of the cylinder block. Do not confuse the plugs with the bolts securing the main bearing caps. crankshaft. The figures show the coolant drain plugs and the arrows indicate the bolts securing the covers.
  • Remove the radiator and fan. To do this, remove the rubber supports and radiator mounting brackets. Remove the radiator, then remove the oil cooler. In cars with an automatic transmission, before removing the radiator, remove the hoses from the transmission oil cooler and plug the holes in the hoses.
  • Remove the expansion tank.
  • Remove the exhaust system assembly.
  • Suck out the oil from the power steering reservoir and disconnect the hoses from the power steering pump.
  • Disconnect all hoses and pipelines of the cooling system, lubrication system, power system and wires between the car body and the engine. It is advisable to mark the pipelines.

Rice. Location of the coolant drain plug (1) on the left side of the cylinder block. Do not unscrew the bolts indicated by the arrows.

Rice. Location of the coolant drain plug on right side cylinder block. Do not remove the bolts indicated by the arrows.

  • Disconnect the fuel control rod.
  • In vehicles with air conditioning, the refrigerant must be drained. The work must be carried out very carefully. If you have no experience, you must apply for technical assistance and instructions. Then disconnect the hoses from the dual pipeline.
  • Unscrew the front engine mount bolts at the bottom of the body on the left and right; to unscrew, use an extension with a hinge that is inserted from below.
  • Attach a lifting cable to the engine and place it on the hook of a crane or other lifting device. Pull the cable slightly.
  • On vehicles with adjustable wheel suspension, unscrew the four bolts securing the suspension hydraulic pump together with the connecting pipes, remove the pump and move it to the side. Remove the pump drive parts.
  • Remove the cross member of the rear engine mount together with the support; before removing, mark the location of the cross member relative to the body.
  • Disconnect the driveshaft from the gearbox and slide it backwards. Clamping nut on cardan shaft don't weaken.

Rice. The arrows indicate the hydraulic system pump mounting bolts adjustable suspension wheels

  • Disconnect the wires from the transmission (reverse light switch wire). IN automatic transmissions gears, disconnect the wires of the kickdown device. Unscrew one side of the steering shock absorber mounting and turn it.
  • Remove the engine mount shock absorbers.
  • Loosen the bolts securing the gearbox to the engine.
  • Place a jack under the gearbox (install a wooden spacer between the jack support pad and the gearbox).
  • Remove the body tunnel protective splash guard.
  • Carefully lift the engine, tilting it at an angle of approximately 45°. Raise the gearbox using a jack, following the movement of the engine. Carry out the work of raising the engine slowly with constant monitoring, make sure that there are no connected wires or pipelines left, especially if the car is equipped with optional equipment. Special attention pay attention to the cable fastening.

Complexity

Tool

3 - 6 h

Tool:

  • Hoist/winch with a lifting capacity of 300 kg
  • Torque wrench
  • Driver for socket attachment
  • 6mm wrench attachment
  • 7mm wrench attachment
  • 8mm wrench attachment
  • Knob attachment 10 mm
  • 12mm wrench attachment

Parts and consumables:

Removal and installation of the engine is described using an example diesel engine, all other engines are removed and installed in the same way.​

For vehicles with air conditioning, it is necessary to first drain the refrigerant and then refill the air conditioning system at a service station.

Throttle body

1 - exhaust gas recirculation valve;

2 - throttle body;

3 - hose;

4 - vacuum throttle drive;

5 - vacuum hose.

The engine control unit

1, 2, 3 - connecting blocks;

4 - wire harness holder;

5 - the engine control unit.

Shift linkage bracket

1 - gear shift rods;

2 - bracket mounting bolts;

3 - bracket;

4 - bracket on the gearbox.

Gear shift rods

1 - gear selection cable;

2 - lock washer;

3 - gear shift cable;

4 - connecting block for the reverse light switch;

5 - ground wire;

6 - the wire;

7 - connecting block;

8 - nut securing the gear shift lever.

Warning:

The hoses on the engine are secured with three types of clamps: screw, spring and tape. Band clamps are disposable; when installing the engine, they must be replaced with screw or spring ones.

Fuel hoses can only be secured with spring clamps; the use of screw and tape clamps is not allowed.

Removing the engine

1. Remove the battery as described.

2. Drain the engine cooling system as described.

3. Drain the engine crankcase oil as described.

4. Remove the engine mudguard by unscrewing the screws that secure it (see fig.).

5. Remove the right wheel drive assembly as described.

6. Unscrew the mounting bolts and disconnect the left wheel drive from the axle flange. Tie the drive to the body with wire so that it does not interfere.

7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the muffler exhaust manifold, as described for or engines.

8. Remove the front buffer as described.

9. In the lower boost air duct, unscrew the bolt 3 securing the lower air duct, remove the clamps 4 and then the air duct 1 with hose 2.

10. Remove the rear support of the power unit 2 with bracket 3 by unscrewing bolts 1 and 4 securing it to the body and gearbox.

11. Remove the upper engine cover as described.

12. Remove the air filter as described for and engines.

13. Disconnect the generator wires from the holder on the battery cover.

14. Disconnect the hoses from the radiator as described.

15. For vehicles with air conditioning, the high and low pipes must be disconnected. low pressure and disconnect the handset high pressure from the compressor. Please note that the air conditioning system can only be refilled at a service station.

16. Remove the upper cross member of the front body (the hood lock is attached to it).

17. Using the diagram of the engine compartment as a guide, remove clamps 4 and air duct 6 with hose 8.

18. IN engine compartment, remove the clamps 1 and disconnect the coolant supply hoses 5, fuel supply 3 and fuel drain 2 from the pipes on the engine.

19. Also, in the engine compartment, disconnect the hose from the expansion tank 7 from below.

20. Disconnect the vacuum hose 5 (see Fig. Throttle body) from the throttle valve drive 4.

21. Disconnect hose 3 (see Fig. Throttle body) from exhaust gas recirculation valve 1.

22. Using the diagram of the heater hoses as a guide, move the spring clamp and disconnect hose 3 from tee 4.

23. According to the diagram of the heater hoses, move the spring clamp and disconnect hose 2 from pipe 1 of the heater radiator.

24. According to the heater hose diagram, disconnect hose 6 from vacuum pump 5.

25. Disconnect block 1 (see Fig. Engine control unit) from engine control unit 5.

26. Disconnect pads 2 (see Fig. Engine control unit) and 3 wire harnesses and remove them from the holder.

27. Unhook holder 4 (see Fig. Engine control unit) of the wiring harness from the mudguard.

28. Unscrew the three bolts 2 (see Fig. Gear shift rod bracket) securing the bracket 3.

29. Remove the clutch drive tube from bracket 4 (see Fig. Gear shift rod bracket).

30. Remove the lock washer 2 (see Fig. Gear shift rods), remove the gear selector lever and set it aside along with cable 1. Remove the bushings of the gear selector lever axle.

31. Unscrew the nut 8 (see Fig. Gear shift rod) securing it, remove the gear shift lever and set it aside together with cable 3.

32. Disconnect block 4 (see Fig. Gear shift rods) from the reverse light switch.

33. Disconnect the ground wire from the side member (see Fig. Shift rods).

34. Disconnect block 7 (see Fig. Gear shift rods) and wire 6 from traction relay starter.

35. Unscrew the two bolts 2 and remove the working cylinder 1 of the clutch release drive from the gearbox housing. Without disconnecting the hose from it, move the cylinder to the side.

Warning:

When the slave cylinder is removed, do not press the clutch pedal.

36. Disconnect the connectors 1 of the wiring harnesses and remove them from the holder under the starter.

37. Hook the engine onto the eyelets and pull the hoist ropes.

38. Unscrew the three bolts 1 fastening right support 3 power units. If the engine drops, lift it with a hoist (2 - support bracket).

39. Unscrew the two bolts 2 securing the left support 1 of the power unit.

40. Lower the power unit slightly and carefully remove it from the engine compartment.

41. Place the power unit on a disassembly stand or a strong, stable support and remove the transmission.

Engine Installation

1. Replace all removed gaskets and O-rings with new ones.

2. Replace all self-locking nuts with new ones.

3. Before installing the muffler exhaust pipe, apply paste G 052 112 A3 for threaded connections exposed to heat to the exhaust manifold studs.

4. Insert the dropped transmission centering bushings.

5. Lubricate grease splines input shaft gearboxes

6. Adjust the gearbox drive.

7. Fill with coolant and engine oil.

Tightening torques

Bolts general purpose(thread, mm - torque, Nm):

  • M6 - 10
  • M7 - 15
  • M8 - 20
  • M10 - 40
  • M12 - 60

Bolts securing the gearbox housing to the engine block (thread, mm - torque, Nm):

  • M10 - 45
  • M12 - 80

Bolts for fastening the right support of the power unit (thread, mm - torque, Nm):

  • M10 - 45
  • M12 - 80

Bolts for fastening the right support of the power unit (mounting location - moment, Nm):

  • to the body - 20, then turn it 90°
  • to the engine - 30, then turn it 90°

Bolts for fastening the left support of the power unit (mounting location - torque, Nm):

  • to the body - 50, then turn it 90°
  • to the gearbox - 40, then turn it 90°

Bolts for securing the rear support of the power unit (mounting location - torque, Nm):

  • to the body - 40, then turn it 90°
  • to the gearbox - 30, then turn it 90°

The article is missing:

  • Photo of the instrument
  • Photos of parts and consumables
  • High-quality photos of repairs
1. Check the engine mounts, coolant and oil hoses for pores and damage. Replace them if necessary. 2. Check the ease of movement of the deep groove ball bearings crankshaft and clutch release bearing, as well as the clutch release lever. 3. Check whether the thickness of the clutch driven disc linings is sufficient, as well as the condition of the linings. At long term operation of the clutch, it is advisable to replace it. 4. Carefully insert the engine into the engine compartment. When lowering, pay attention to the direction of the engine to avoid damage to the transmission input shaft, clutch and body. 5. Screw in the engine mount mounting nuts without tightening them. 6. Raise and place the vehicle on stands. 7. Install the manual transmission, refer to the Section Removing and installing manual transmission and AT. 8. Lower the vehicle onto its wheels. 9. Rock the engine to self-align. After this, tighten the support nuts to a torque of 45 Nm. Secure the ground cable to the right beam.

10. If the cooling compressor was removed, secure it.
11. Fasten the power steering pump, refer to the Section Fastening the hydraulic pump.
12. Put on and tension the V-belt, refer to Section Removal, installation and tension V-belt.
13. Connect the plug connections of the cylinder recognition sensor and the flywheel pulse sensor DME. Connect the plug connections of the temperature sensor, remote thermometer, oil pressure indicator sensor and control valve idle move, refer to the “Removal” subsection.
14. Install the inlet pipeline, refer to Section Removal and Installation intake pipe.
15. Attach all electric wires, vacuum and coolant hoses and fuel hoses in accordance with the markings. Secure the hoses and electrical wires with clamps.
16. Install the connector strip on the cylinder head and secure it.
17. Install the spark plugs.
18. Install the air supply cover and secure it with screws, refer to Section Removing and installing the windshield wiper drive/cover.
19. Secure the electrical wires to the generator, refer to the Section Removing and installing the generator.
20. Secure the generator cover.
21. Check the air filter element. If necessary, knock it out or replace it, refer to Section Removing and installing the air filter housing and air mass meter.
22. Place the coolant hoses onto the heater valve and secure them with clamps.
23. Install the radiator, refer to the Section Removing and installing the radiator.
24. Install the fan, refer to the Section Removing and installing the fan and fan clutch.
25. Install the hood, refer to Section Removing and installing the hood.
26. Check the antifreeze content in the coolant and fill it into the system.
27. Check the oil level in the engine and manual transmission. Add oil if necessary.
28. Connect the ground cable to battery. Set the clock. Program the radio stations.
29. Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature. Check the coolant level. Check the tightness of all connections.
30. Secure the lower shield of the engine compartment.