The starter unit is one of the main ones in the car, since it is its correct operation that makes it possible to start the internal combustion engine. If the starter does not turn, the retractor does not click, then the engine will not start.

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The main reasons why the starter does not work when starting the car

Before searching for a malfunction in the operation of the main unit of the ignition system, it is necessary to understand the causes of the breakdown. In accordance with the reason, an algorithm for repairing the device will be determined.

Low battery

The most common situation that car owners face is a reduced battery charge. When the voltage source is discharged or broken, the retractor does not click, which does not allow the motor to start.

With a low charge, the starter does not work and the following symptoms appear:

1. Turning the key does not start the engine. The starter unit does not make clicks or other sounds, the device does not spin up. To diagnose the battery, you can try to activate another energy consumer. We are talking about optics, car radio, stove or interior lighting.
2. The light indicators on the control panel go out after turning on the ignition. Clicks are also heard, indicating activation of the starter relay.
3. The starter assembly emits a few clicks, the indicator lights on the control panel go out or their brightness decreases.

Diagnostics of the battery operation can be carried out using a tester or a load plug, an example of checking with a multimeter:

1. The ignition is switched off and the hood of the car is opened. The terminal clamps must be cleaned as poor current transfer can be caused by oxidation of the contacts. It is best to use a toothbrush or fine sandpaper for cleaning. You must act carefully so as not to damage the top layer on the clamps.
2. The clamps are disconnected. Wrenches are used to loosen the nuts on the contacts.
3. Visual is produced. Battery malfunctions are often caused by damage to the case and leakage of electrolyte solution from the battery.
4. If there is no damage, the covers on the battery banks are unscrewed. The presence of liquid inside the device is checked. If the electrolyte does not completely cover the cans, add distilled water to the battery.
5. The next step is to directly diagnose the battery voltage. The multimeter probes are connected to the battery terminals. With the engine not running, the operating voltage parameter should be between 12.5 and 13 volts. You can diagnose the battery when the power unit is running - it should be from 13.5 to 14 volts.

The accumulator talked in detail about diagnosing a car battery using a multimeter.

If the battery voltage is more than 14.2 volts, then the battery is discharged and the generator set has to operate in a boosted mode.

To restore the charge, the battery must be charged, while it is important to observe the amperage of the load current on the device. The charging procedure is carried out using the starting and charging equipment; the task usually takes at least eight hours to complete.

Defective ignition switch

If the ignition switch does not work, this can be determined by the following signs:

1. The starter unit does not function. The device does not click and the relay does not pick up. This problem is caused by a lack of power that must pass through the breaker.
2. Electrical equipment installed in the machine does not function. Electrical appliances may not be connected to each other, for example, a stove and interior lighting. But the activation of the equipment occurs as a result of the functioning contact component of the ignition lock.
3. If the driver moves the key in the lock, some electrical equipment and devices may turn on at a certain key position. This indicates the closing of the contact elements and the restoration of the power supply to the equipment.

All causes of malfunctions in the operation of the ignition switch can be divided into two groups - mechanical and electrical. Malfunctions in the operation of the lock always appear as a result of its incorrect installation or rapid wear of its constituent components.

Malfunction of electrical components

Electrical problems usually arise due to overloading of devices and equipment installed in the machine, the contact component breaks down. With additional installation of lighting devices and other consumers, the ignition switch may not withstand the increase in load. Due to an increase in the load on the contact component, carbon deposits form, it appears on the metal part.

To prevent overloading of the switching device, additional electrical equipment must be connected to the electrical circuit through a relay. The presence of this element will provide the removal of part of the load. Problems in the electrical component of the lock can be caused by the appearance of a short circuit in the electrical circuit. Such a malfunction is typical for all domestically produced cars, it is considered their "disease".

The Autoelectrician HF channel spoke about diagnosing the ignition switch, checking electrical faults and ringing the device.

Malfunction of mechanical components

Mechanical faults in the ignition switch include wear of the contact tracks or the contact elements themselves. The problem may be physical damage to one of the component parts of the device. Also, the cause is often considered to be overheating of the contact elements and the plastic case, melting leads to the inoperability of the mechanism. To determine mechanical problems in the operation of the ignition lock, it will be necessary to dismantle the device.

The circuit breaker is diagnosed using a multimeter or voltmeter:

1. The negative cable is disconnected from the battery, a key is used to disconnect the wire from the clamp.
2. The plastic upholstery around the steering column of the car is being dismantled. Depending on the car model, the dismantling procedure will be different. Usually, to remove the lining, it is enough to unscrew the bolts connecting the two parts of the upholstery to each other.
3. The plug, which is connected to the device, is disconnected from the power supply of the machine. The wiring harness is removed from under the control panel.
4. The key is being installed in the switch. It is necessary to turn the control to all available positions. In each of them, you need to stop in order to diagnose the resistance between the contact elements of the wiring using a tester. To check, the multimeter is switched to ohmmeter mode.
5. If the check showed that the resistance value is 0, this indicates the serviceability of the contact elements of the lock. When the working parameter of resistance is equal to infinity, then the contact components are inoperative and must be replaced. If the resistance value is measured in numbers, this indicates burning of the contact elements.
6. To diagnose the performance of the backlight, you need to apply a direct current with a voltage of 12 volts to the contacts. The example is considered on a Lada car, so the current is supplied to components numbered 2 and 6 located on the connector. If, as a result of the actions, the indicator light does not light up, this indicates a malfunction in the wiring or damage to the cable.
7. If the diagnostics showed that some of the contact elements are faulty, it is necessary to completely replace the contact component.

Defective solenoid relay

Signs by which you can determine a malfunction in the solenoid relay:

1. The car engine starts, but after starting the power unit, the starter unit does not turn off. You can hear how the mechanism rotates, this is evidenced by an unpleasant and loud buzzing sound.
2. After turning the key, a click is heard in the ignition switch. This indicates activation of the starter unit, but it does not start.
3. When turning the key in the switch, you can hear how the knot begins to unwind. But the crankshaft of the power unit does not rotate.

To make sure that the retractor relay is malfunctioning, it must be checked, the diagnostic procedure is considered using the example of a VAZ 2110:

1. At the first stage of the test, diagnostics of the electrical circuit that goes to the relay is performed. Diagnostics of the integrity of the wiring is performed. If there is an open circuit, the chain in the damaged area must be reconnected and insulated.
2. If the power line is intact, then relay operation diagnostics are performed. You will need the help of another person. The assistant must turn the key in the ignition lock, and the car owner listens to see if a click is heard. If there is no click, it can be concluded that the relay is broken, so the device must be replaced.
3. If there is a click and there is no scrolling of the starter mechanism, the relay is checked. Probably, the component does not work as a result of the burnout of the plates on the contact component.
4. Diagnosis requires a flat-blade screwdriver. The terminal part is disconnected from the relay, which goes to the lock, and the terminals are closed with a screwdriver. This is the element that runs from the battery to the starter unit. This action will provide a direct supply of energy to the electric motor of the starter mechanism without a relay. If the node began to scroll, this indicates a malfunction in the relay.
5. Then the voltage supplied from the starter unit is diagnosed, a tester is used to check. Such a step will allow you to find out exactly what the problem is - in the operation of the starter unit or the electrical circuit and battery. For diagnostics, the tester contact is connected to the positive contact of the relay, voltage is supplied to it from the battery. The negative probe of the tester must be connected to the mass of the car, that is, the body or any bolt screwed into the body.
6. After connecting, the assistant needs to scroll the key in the switch, the element is set to start mode. When turning the key, the voltage parameter on the tester screen should be 12 volts. If the value obtained is lower, it can indicate a partial or full discharge of the battery. The energy generated by the battery may not be enough to start the powertrain, but it is enough to activate the relay. In the event of a power shortage, the rotor of the starter device does not rotate.

Alexander Movchan spoke in detail about the procedure for diagnostics and repair of the solenoid relay.

Starter defective

Signs of a malfunction in the starter mechanism:

1. When trying to start the motor, the anchor element of the starter unit does not scroll or turns with difficulty. The reason may lie in the battery discharge, oxidation of the surface of the terminals, or their weakening on the terminal elements.
2. When the ignition system is activated, the starter mechanism does not respond to the driver's actions or turns the anchor element with great effort. The battery is fully charged. The problem may lie in the burning of the collector device, natural wear of the bushings of the anchor mechanism. Also, the reason may lie in the turn-to-turn closure of the winding or wear of the surface on the brushes. Diagnostics will require an analysis of the mechanism and a visual check of its components.
3. When the starter device is started, the anchor element rotates, but the crankshaft of the power unit does not rotate. Perhaps the problem should be looked for in the failure of the coupling buffer ring. Sometimes the reason is that the driver ring is not working.
4. If the engine is running, the starter mechanism does not turn off. The problem may lie in the sticking of the lever of the drive device of the mechanism or flooding of the traction relay. Sometimes the reason lies in the breakdown of the return spring element of the switch.
5. When scrolling the starter unit, noises, grinding, squeaks or other uncharacteristic and unpleasant sounds appear. The problem should be looked for in the failure of the gear drive device. Often the reason lies in the damage to the flywheel crown or wear of the bushings of the bearing devices.

Check the starter, which does not allow the engine to start, as follows:

1. First, the scrolling of the mechanism is checked. To do this, the node is securely fixed, the negative circuit is connected to the body, and the positive contact goes to the upper terminal of the relay and the activation contact. If the unit is working, the bendix should go out and start turning the gear with the electric motor.
2. Then diagnostics of each unit of the mechanism is carried out separately. To test the brushes, you can use a twelve-volt lamp with connected wires. One of the contacts of the light source is connected to the brush holder, and the other - to the body of the device. If the light bulb lights up, this indicates the need to replace the brushes as a result of breakdowns that have appeared in their protection.
3. You can diagnose the brushes using a multimeter, but for this the unit will have to be disassembled. The test is performed using an ohmmeter that measures the amount of resistance between the brush assembly and the main plate. With working brushes, the resistance parameter should correspond to infinity. When removing the brushes, it is necessary to visually diagnose them, as well as bushings, windings of the anchor device and the manifold assembly. If the bushings are worn out, a voltage drop occurs when the engine starts, so the electric motor is unstable.
4. If the collector device is out of order or damaged, the brush assembly will be "eaten away". Broken bushings will cause the anchor assembly to be skewed and the brushes will wear unevenly. There is a possibility of an interturn short circuit in the winding of the device.
5. To diagnose the bendix, the clutch body is clamped in a vice, and the unit itself is rotated by physical impact. If it scrolls, this indicates a problem with the freewheel clutch. The Bendix may not engage and the knot itself will begin to rotate. To check the gear, visual diagnostics are used, and its sticking is determined through a complete parsing. When dismantling and disassembling, the gear unit is cleaned of dirt and grease residues inside the device.
6. The winding of the starter unit is diagnosed by means of a light source designed for 220 volts and with a power of up to 100 watts. The diagnostic principle is similar to the procedure for checking the brush assembly. The light source is connected in series between the stator housing and the mechanism winding. One contact of the electrical circuit is connected to the case, and the second goes to the winding terminal, each of them is checked in turn. If the light source comes on, this indicates a breakdown.
7. In the absence of a lamp, you can use an ohmmeter and measure the resistance value. This parameter should be approximately 10 kOhm. The winding of the rotor element is diagnosed in a similar way. For testing, a 220-volt lamp is used and one of its contacts is connected to the plate of the collector device, and the other to the core. If the light source is on, then rewinding or replacement of the rotor device is necessary.
8. Armature diagnostics are performed by supplying 12 volt voltage directly from the battery to the starter unit. If the anchor element is scrolled, then it is working. In the absence of cranking, the problem must be sought in the device itself or in the brushes.

The depth between the grooves of the collector device of the anchor element must be at least 0.5 mm.

The VMazute channel showed in detail the procedure for parsing the starter unit with a description of the mechanism repair process.

How to start the engine if there is a problem with the starter and the solenoid relay?

With an inoperative starter mechanism, the car owner has the ability to start the power unit. There are several ways to start the engine.

Close starter directly

An example of a launch is considered on a VAZ 2110 car:

1. The transmission lever in the passenger compartment is set to the neutral position. The parking brake lever is raised.
2. The ignition system is activated by turning the key in the switch. The engine compartment of the car opens, the following actions are performed under the hood.
3. The air filtering device is being dismantled. It retracts to the side so that the driver can access the contact elements of the starter unit.
4. The chip that goes to the contact component is turned off.
5. With the help of any metal product, for example, a screwdriver, the contact components of the terminals of the starter unit are closed. You can use a piece of cable.
6. After the contacts are closed, the starter mechanism should begin to scroll, which will lead to. When performing this task, it is important that the battery is charged.

After completing the action, the chip is put in place, and the filtering device is also mounted back. Such steps will allow you to start the power unit in the future. But since the problem remains, it will still have to be addressed.

Sergey Tsapyuk spoke in detail about the procedure for starting the power unit by directly closing the starter unit.

Spinning wheels

The implementation of this method is possible only on front-wheel drive vehicles equipped with a manual transmission:

1. The car is installed on a jack, one of the front wheels must be hung out.
2. The suspended wheel is turned outward until it stops. If it is a left wheel, then it turns to the left, right, respectively, to the right.
3. A cable is wound onto the surface of the tire, which is used for towing. In its absence, the use of a strong rope is allowed. It is necessary to wind 3-4 layers, while at least one meter of rope or cable must remain free.
4. The gearshift lever is moved to the third speed position.
5. The key in the ignition switch turns.
6. Then you need to pull strongly at the end of the rope or cable, this is done in order to unwind the wheel. It is not recommended to perform this task while standing in one place; you should make a small take-off run.
7. If the vehicle's power unit has started, then neutral speed is activated. It is not necessary to depress the clutch pedal to do this. We must wait until the wheel of the car stops.
8. Then the jack is loosened and the wheel is lowered to the ground.

From the "pusher"

The implementation of the "old-fashioned" method from the "pusher" is as follows:

1. You will need an assistant to complete the task. You can act yourself if the car is on the slope.
2. The parking brake knob is lowered.
3. The key is turned to ignition mode, the transmission selector is set to the third gear position.
4. Then the car must be pushed. If there is an assistant, the driver sits in the passenger compartment and waits until the speed is at least 10-30 km / h. The clutch pedal on the car must be depressed.
5. After increasing the speed, the pedal is gently lowered, at the same time the driver presses on the gas. When the engine starts, you can engage in neutral gear and stop to wait for it to warm up.

Video "Guide to starting the engine when the starter is inoperative"

Mikhail Avtoinstruktor told in detail about all the nuances of the procedure for starting the motor by the auto method from the "pusher".

What to do if the starter turns, but does not turn the engine, does not turn it There are few reasons for this behavior, they should be studied in more detail, and also methods for elimination should be considered. It is possible that you will immediately start to panic, but this is not worth doing. Repair will cost a maximum of 300 rubles. The only thing that this breakdown will take away from you is time. But it all depends on what kind of malfunction is hidden in the starter. First you need to carry out a diagnosis.

Breakdown diagnosis

So, the symptoms are obvious - the starter turns, but does not turn the engine. Of course, you can start a car from a tug, but it is reasonable to do this only if you need to get to the place of repair. You will not constantly start the engine in this way. First of all, pay attention to whether extraneous metal sounds are heard from the side of the starter. If they are present, then the cause of the breakdown can be immediately determined - the teeth on the flywheel rim are worn out, so the bendix gear cannot mesh with them.

But there may be other malfunctions. For example, the breakage of the bendix itself. Its main part is the overrunning clutch. With its help, the gear can only rotate in one direction. If it rotates freely in both directions, then the freewheel is damaged. You only have to replace the bendix, and this procedure will take half an hour at most. It is very rare that metal plates or a plastic plug are destroyed. If such a breakdown occurs, then the starter turns, but the engine does not start, since it closes the contacts, but does not engage the gears.

How to remove the starter

To work, you need a small set of tools - keys for 10 and 13. Moreover, regardless of the car on which this mechanism is removed. Repair of starters on various brands and models of cars is carried out using the same technology. The reason for this is the identical design of the electric drive. They can differ in size, type (with or without a gearbox), as well as the type of plug (plastic, metal plate). As for the rest, there are practically no differences.

True, on some you have to dodge not weakly in order to remove the starter. For example, on domestic classics, in order to unscrew the lower fastening nut, you need to crawl under the car to release the engine starter. And then, using a 13-point head, a pair of cardan shafts and an extension cord, unscrew this unfortunate nut. True, most drivers simply ignore it, during assembly they carry out fasteners for two nuts. In other models of domestic VAZ cars, there are no problems with dismantling the starter.

How to replace the bendix

You can replace the bendix in just 10-15 minutes. With the condition that the starter has already been removed from the vehicle and prepared for repair. First, unscrew the rear cover fasteners, then remove the retaining ring from the rotor. Unscrew the two nuts that tighten the starter parts. But it is possible to disconnect only after the stator windings are disconnected from the brush assembly. When repairing starters, try to pay attention to all the details, even the smallest ones.

First, clean the louvres and housing. Second, assess the wear on the bushings and brushes. When all parts of the starter are disconnected, the rotor will remain in the front cover. Closer to its edge is a retaining ring. A clip is put on top of it, which can be shifted towards the rotor winding by inflicting a few light blows. Then remove the ring using a screwdriver. That's all, now the bendix can be easily dismantled, and a new one is installed in its place. It is recommended to coat the spiral splines on the rotor surface with lithol or graphite grease.

How to remove the gearbox

But everything is much worse if the starter turns, but does not turn the engine, and metal sounds are also heard. This suggests that it will be necessary to remove the gearbox and change the flywheel crown. Since you are going to climb here, then remember how long ago the clutch was changed. If you don't remember when, then get a kit - a disc, basket, bearing and six bolts. The procedure for removing the gearbox is not easy, so it is unnecessary to carry it out once again. First of all, disconnect all wires going to the gearbox and the speedometer drive cable. Now drain the oil while controlling its appearance.

After that, disconnect the drives - remove the inner CV joints from the gearbox. Please note that both hinges cannot be removed at the same time! First dismantle the first one, then put a plug in its place. After that, just take out the second one. Otherwise, the differential will collapse, you will have to disassemble the box to eliminate the damage. Then you hang up the engine and gearbox, dismantle the pillows. However, this is the end of the preparation. Now just unscrew the bolts or nuts that secure the box to the engine. And you can do undocking.

Flywheel ring replacement

Please note that if the starter turns, but does not turn the engine, and the reason is in the crown, then not all of its teeth will be destroyed. Most will be in perfect condition, but a small sector will be spoiled. The thing is that the crankshaft stops in one position relative to the starter. And it is in it that the engagement begins - the impact of the Bendix gear on the crown.

Repairing the crown can be completely free. It will be quite reasonable to remove and install it on the reverse side. This element is completely symmetrical, so there will be no problem. The new one has a cost of about 200-250 rubles, which also will not hit your pocket. First it needs to be knocked off the flywheel. Then the crown (new or the same) is warmed up. Red-hot is not necessary. And just applied to the flywheel. That's all, now the metal is cooling down and the crown grips the flywheel tightly. This completes the repair and starts assembling the car.

Conclusion

Now you know how easy it is to change the starter. The price of a new one is relatively small. For example, for VAZ cars the minimum is 2300 rubles. Of course, the more expensive the car is, the more money will be spent on buying a starter. But changing it completely is not always wise. If the malfunction is in the bendix, then its cost is ten times lower. Therefore, it is easier to replace only this unit.

VAZ-2107, or the classic "Lada", "seven" - the car is quite old, but reliable. More than one generation of drivers "grew up" behind the wheel of this car. Like any type of transport, VAZ tends to break down from time to time. Quite often, breakdowns concern the ignition system, in particular, a part such as a starter.

Starter: device and principle of its operation

In all cars, including the VAZ-2107, the starter performs one of the main functions - it starts the engine. To start the engine, you need to turn the crankshaft and thus create a flash of the fuel mixture in one of the cylinders. For this, a starter is needed - an electric motor in which alternating current is constantly present.

When the ignition switch contacts close, current flows through the winding. The core of the electromagnet is retracted, and the lever connected to it moves the bendix gear. At the same time, the core creates pressure on the plate, which closes the contacts at the moment the gear enters into engagement with the flywheel. The current through the closed contacts enters the motor winding and creates a magnetic field that rotates the crankshaft. When the engine is already running, the starter must be turned off. The key is turned back, the magnetic field disappears, and the device goes into a state of rest.

Structurally, the starter consists of the following elements: an electric motor and an overrunning clutch with a gear (bendix). Each component performs a specific function, and if something fails, the whole system does not work.

The VAZ-2107 starter does not turn: the causes of malfunctions

When the starter is broken, the engine can no longer start, so the car does not move. Before "sinning" on this device, you need to make sure that it is charged and in working order. Often, a simple battery discharge is confused with various breakdowns. If the battery is charged, the reason should be looked for elsewhere. Namely:

• Loose wiring connection to the solenoid relay or vehicle ground.
• The starter is not properly secured.
• The contacts of the solenoid relay are oxidized.
• Starter parts (bearings, armature, bushings) are worn out.
• Contact plates inside the relay are burnt out.
• The winding on the anchor has closed.
• Broken wire that connects the auxiliary relay to the starter retractor relay.
• The winding of the solenoid relay has broken.

How to recognize a malfunctioning starter?

The causes of breakdowns may not always be where they are looking for. If the car won't start, don't blame the starter right away. Perhaps the reason is different. To make sure that the mentioned device is still to blame, you should pay attention to such moments in the operation of the VAZ-2107:

• The starter turns, and (problems with the retractor relay).
• When the key is turned in the ignition lock, the starter is "silent".
• The device starts up after several unsuccessful attempts.
• The engine is running and the starter continues to run.
• Strange sounds come from the car while driving (noise, knocking, grinding).

When at least one of these signs is observed, you should remove the starter and examine it in more detail for damage. The device may need to be repaired, or even replaced.

Repair of the starter VAZ-2107

Its service life is 5-6 years. If the part has been serving for a long time, there is no point in repairing it. It is easier and safer to buy a new one. On average, it will cost 2500-3000 rubles. However, it also happens that there is not always money to buy a new device, or the starter is not old enough and can still serve its owner. Then, of course, you can try to fix the spare part.

In order to find out exactly where the breakdown occurred, the unit must be dismantled and a visual inspection, in particular, inspect the traction relay, the starter winding and the armature.

VAZ 2107 is checked using a battery. It is necessary to connect the terminal "50" with the positive terminal of the battery, and the starter housing itself - with the negative one. If the relay is working properly, you will hear a click and the gear will slide out through the front cover. If no changes occur, the relay is faulty and should be replaced. The cost of a new spare part is 600-700 rubles.

You can check the winding of the armature and starter using a multimeter. To do this, one probe of the device is connected to the body, and the second is connected to the winding outlet or to the armature contact plates. The resistance of the winding, on which there is no short circuit, must be 10 or more units. Low resistance indicates a short. It is impossible to cope with such a breakdown on your own. All that remains is to buy a new starter.

To check the overrunning clutch, you need to turn the gear. In one direction, it should scroll freely, and in the other - together with the anchor. Any deviation indicates a malfunction of this part.

Before installing the starter in its place, you should also check for wear on its brushes. The working height should be 12 mm.

Before assembly, each component part of the device in question must be cleaned of dirt and oxidation using sandpaper.

We change the starter with our own hands

On VAZ-2107 cars, the starter is one of those parts that every driver can replace independently. To remove an old part and install a new one, you should adhere to the following procedure:

• Disconnect the battery (negative terminal).
• Using the key No. 10, unscrew the lower bolt that holds the starter.
• With a 13 key, unscrew the next three bolts so that the unit can be moved.
• Remove the air filter housing.
• Remove the shield, disconnect the wire from the positive terminal of the starter. The same must be done with the traction relay.
• Remove the starter.
• The installation of a new device is carried out in the reverse order.

As you can see, replacing the starter (VAZ-2107 or any other model is not important) is a fairly simple task.

Conclusion

Each driver should be able to diagnose his vehicle and troubleshoot in time. In VAZ-2107 cars, the starter is the part that, although infrequently, still breaks down. Even a novice driver will not be difficult to fix or replace the device. Plus, it's a great money-saver. Indeed, for a simple replacement at a car service they can "tear off" at an exorbitant price!

Often, on a VAZ-2106, a problem such as the failure of the starter to respond to the turn of the key in the ignition lock may arise. At the same time, even the characteristic click of the solenoid relay is not even heard. This problem, of course, is not widespread. Nevertheless, it is quite common. Most likely, each owner of the "six" at least once, but still had to deal with a "rebellious" starter. However, is it always the cause of the malfunction only in this node?

If the starter does not click or twist - what should the owner of the VAZ-2106 do in such a situation

There can be many reasons for this problem. The simplest and most widespread is a rechargeable battery planted "to zero". In this case, it is not difficult to identify the source of the problem. You just need to turn on the headlights. If they do not light up, then the battery is completely discharged. In this case, you can start up "from the pusher" or ask for a "light" from the neighbors in the garage. The headlights, by the way, can shine and become full. That is, the battery has not completely sat down, but the starter does not have enough energy. In this case, the retractor, if everything is in order with it, will make itself felt with a click.

If the battery is charged normally, then you need to continue looking for the source of the problem. We check the integrity of the fuses. If everything is in order here, we look further. By the way, a malfunction may well be in the ignition lock itself. To check this version, a simple manipulation should be carried out. In particular, you need to try to start the car directly by shorting the required wires together. If, after such a manipulation, the starter comes to life, it means that the problem is really in the lock, and it should be replaced.

However, before that, also check the ignition contact group - it is quite possible that an open circuit has occurred there.

Next, carefully inspect the wiring for breaks. If everything is in order here, then we continue to search. The absence of clicks of the solenoid relay may indicate:

• contact between the rotor "mass" and the positive charge of the stator;
• seized bushing or motor roller.

Without removing the starter, it will not be possible to find out the exact cause. It is possible that the absence of clicks is due to a short circuit in the rotor or stator winding. To understand the reason, in any case, you will need to remove the starter and disassemble it.

Then carefully inspect the retractor terminals. It is likely that they need cleaning (or replacement) after which the problem disappears. If this procedure did not help, check the relay coil. A characteristic burning smell will indicate the presence of a malfunction. The problem can also be caused by a loose fit of the brushes to the collector, or too serious wear on the latter. It is quite possible that you just need to replace the retractor.

It is worth noting one point - if you have already disassembled the starter, found a specific malfunction, and eliminated it, then still conduct a visual inspection of the entire device. Such preventive maintenance is extremely useful in preventing future failures. If you see that the service life of a part is clearly coming to an end, replace it immediately. This will eliminate the need to disassemble the starter again after some time. That is, in this case, you are doing a kind of prevention.

The situation when there is no reaction when turning the key in the ignition lock is known to almost every motorist, especially to the owners of domestic models. If the dashboard lights up, then the reason is not the battery, but possibly a device such as a starter. We are interested in the starter on the VAZ 2107, but since these devices are identical on almost all domestically produced cars, it means that they have the same malfunction problems. If the VAZ 2107 starter does not turn, then it's time to diagnose and find the breakdown. Let's figure out why the product for starting the engine may not function.

If you operate the car for a long time without carrying out diagnostics and technical inspections, then everything will end in failure as a result. If the engine does not start, then this breakdown can be eliminated in a few minutes, or in a few hours, depending on the type of breakdown. How can you determine why the starter is not turning? The main types of breakdowns include the following factors:

The simplest, but frequent breakdown of a starter on a VAZ 2107 is the oxidation of contacts. Moreover, the contacts are oxidized both on the device itself and on the battery.

Checking the contacts of the battery terminals

A more complex breakdown is usually associated with a malfunction of the retractor relay, as well as the development of the rotor, breakage of windings, brushes and slip rings.

Burnout of the contacts of the solenoid relay. You can determine the exact breakdown of the mechanism after dismantling it. After removing the unit, you should check the condition of the main components, both the solenoid relay and the device itself. The resistance of the windings, the presence of breaks or short circuits, the presence of oxidations, contacts, etc. are checked. As soon as the cause of the breakdown is identified, it should be eliminated if possible, or the entire mechanism should be replaced.

The main reasons why the device does not twist

Let's consider the main reasons for such consequences in which the starter does not function.

The battery is discharged. It is very easy to determine such a breakdown. If you turn the key in the ignition lock, and in response there will be no signs of life, and the lights on the panel are completely extinguished, then the reason lies directly in the battery. You can fix the breakdown by charging the battery. If the battery has a weak charge, at which the control panel functions, then when you try to start the engine, you will hear the clicks of the relay.

Lack of "mass" on the solenoid relay. The mass can disappear for several reasons: contact oxidation, wire breakage, loosening of nuts. If there is no "mass", then the unit may not show any signs of life, or work every other time. The situation can be corrected by stripping the contacts and tightening them, or by ringing the supply wires.

Open circuit. If the relay does not click after trying to start the engine, then the breakdown may lie in the ignition contact group. You can find out the malfunction by checking the presence of contact between the ignition and the starter.

Defective solenoid relay. A defective solenoid relay can be repaired by replacing it or sometimes repairing it.

The malfunction may also consist in a wire break between the solenoid relay and the starter relay, through which power is supplied when the key is turned in the ignition lock.

How to recognize faults

The starter is not to blame for the fact that the engine does not start, for the simple reason that the malfunction may lie in other devices. It is possible to identify a malfunction of the device in question on the VAZ-2107 by the following signs:

• The car will not start, but the starter motor hums. The reason is a malfunction of the retractor mechanism.
• Silence from the side of the starter when turning the key in the ignition lock.
• The engine is started after several unsuccessful start attempts.
• The device continues to function after starting the engine.
• The presence of noise, grinding and knocking when the vehicle is moving.

The presence of one of the aforementioned signs indicates that a fault must be sought in this mechanism.

Unit repair

The estimated service life of the product is about 5-6 years. If the mechanism is used significantly, it should be replaced with a new one. You can check the serviceability of the solenoid relay by supplying power to the product. The “+” power supply from the battery is connected to the “50” terminal, and the “ground” is supplied to the unit body. If the product is in good working order, a quick and resonant click will be heard. The faulty device will not click. It is possible to replace only the solenoid relay, but first make a complete diagnosis.

Checking the reliability of fastening the control wire to the relay

To check the health of the windings, you need to use a multimeter. The features of the continuity of the stator and armature windings are described in the material on the repair of the device. It is required to check the serviceability of the overrunning clutch, for which you need to turn the gear. In one direction, the gear should rotate freely, and in the other, together with the anchor. It is important to check the wear of the brushes. The height must be at least 12 mm.

This concludes a brief analysis of the main breakdowns of the starter on the VAZ 2107. There is no difference in these devices, and it does not matter what kind of “seven” you have - an injector or a carburetor. The only difference is that the old models of the VAZ-2107 are equipped with old models of devices, and the new models of the year of production are already supplied with gear starters, which are characterized by greater efficiency and reliability.