The topic of protecting a car from corrosion is overgrown with speculation and myths. Almost all myths on this topic today are not true. Behind last years technologies and solutions for anti-corrosion protection of the body have stepped far forward and provide previously unavailable opportunities. So, it’s time to destroy a dozen myths about anticorrosion and corrosion.

Myth 1: A new car does not need anticorrosive.

Actually this is not true. Any manufacturer guarantees protection against through corrosion for 12 years. As long as no holes or pockets of rust have formed on the body elements, claims from the client will not be accepted. In order to avoid getting into a situation where the body begins to rust, but it is simply impossible to do anything under warranty, it is better to take care of preventive anti-corrosion protection in advance.

Myth 2: A galvanized body does not rust.

Chromium, which is part of stainless steel or applied to the surface of galvanized steel, really effectively protects its surface from corrosion. But the fact is that car bodies are not made of stainless steel, the parts of which are simply difficult to weld together due to the presence of zinc. Therefore, factories perform galvanic galvanization, as a result of which a layer of zinc up to 0.015 mm thick is formed on the surface of the steel. This zinc layer is quite economical in terms of production costs and provides good protection. However, it is easily damaged mechanically. And not only as a result of an accident, but also due to abrasive effects on the surface of the body. Also, the zinc layer is damaged during operation, during which the body experiences various bending and deforming loads. Because of them, corrosion first appears at welding points and at joints - numerous power and moving elements of any body. Therefore, even a good galvanized body will never benefit from additional anti-corrosion protection.

Myth 3: Only exposed areas of the body rust, which cannot be protected with anticorrosive.

It's not like that at all. Please note that many cars rust along the lower edges of external surfaces and elements. Edges of hoods, doors, trunk lids, edges of roof panels, bottom edges of non-removable rear wings– corrosion attacks them first. Why? It's all about condensed moisture, which inevitably forms in the off-season. During night frosts, the body metal cools to low temperatures and dew falls on it. And not only from the outside, but also from the inside - after all, the air and the moisture contained in it penetrates into all unsealed cavities. And if the dew dries on the outer panels, it does not on the inner panels. Droplets of moisture flow down to the lower edges and collect there, gradually penetrating to the steel through a thin layer of soil. As a result, rust - hydrated iron oxide - breaks out from under the paint. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to protect the hidden cavities of the body and the joints of metal sheets with anticorrosive agents!

Myth 4: Anti-corrosion protection for the bottom will be sufficient.

In fact, protecting the bottom from corrosion only has a placebo effect. Imagine this situation: the master shows the mastic applied to the bottom, and the owner of the car sighs with relief. "The car is protected!" - he thinks. And, although not much, he is mistaken. As the previous myth suggests, it is important to protect hidden body cavities. Exposed surfaces, even the bottom, do not rust as quickly. And on the bottom, pockets of corrosion form from hidden niches in the reinforcement spars and sills.

Myth 5: Anti-corrosion treatment must be carried out on a new car.

Indeed, for many years the most sensible solution was to treat the body new car, not affected by corrosion. But today, any car can be protected from corrosion, even a rusty one, even one made half a century ago. And it will be effective protection, and not an imaginary superficial one.

Myth 6: It is useless to treat a car damaged by corrosion.

No, it's not useless. And there are two solutions. You can clean the corrosion areas down to the metal and protect its bare surface with a layer of anti-corrosion. Or you can simply apply a modern, effective anti-corrosion compound to all rusty surfaces. At the same time, the composition will neutralize corrosion - stop its development and, as a result, the destruction of the metal. The effect of anticorrosive in this case can be compared to stripping metal and subsequent protective treatment. Only in this case much less labor and time is needed.

Myth 7: Hidden cavities and internal surfaces of the body are extremely difficult to treat with anticorrosive.

No. In fact, everything is easy and simple. Today there is an effective anti-corrosion agent, which is applied aerosol method and protects all metal surfaces on which it settles. In this way, it is possible to process both open and hidden surfaces, as well as hard-to-reach parts (for example, fuel and brake pipes) - you just need to penetrate them with a special probe with a sprayer, from which an anti-corrosion compound is supplied under pressure.

Myth 8: Anti-corrosion protection of one car is done in a day.

In fact, several years ago, treating a car with anti-corrosion agent, especially one already affected by corrosion, required a lot of labor: the treated surfaces had to be cleaned of dirt and free of corrosion. Partial disassembly of the body was often required - in the event that access to hinged parts or hidden cavities. Modern solutions in the field of anti-corrosion protection, they allow you to treat the outer surfaces of the body (bottom), hidden cavities of doors, hood, trunk lid, etc. in just a few hours.

Myth 9: Anticorrosive treatment should be done before the autumn-winter season.

It is possible and necessary to treat and protect the body from corrosion at any time of the year. Modern anti-corrosion compounds allow them to be applied to both dry and wet (for example, after washing) body surfaces (underbody). Modern anticorrosion protection is not afraid of the influence of moisture and reagents that will inevitably fall on the treated surface immediately after driving on public roads.

Myth 10: The engine compartment and suspension parts cannot be treated with anticorrosive.

It is not true. Modern technologies allow you not to bypass the engine compartment, but to treat it purposefully. The protective properties of anti-corrosion compounds allow you to safely process electrical cables, wiring, open and closed electrical connectors, control units and, in general, all electronics. Modern anticorrosive is applied in a barely noticeable layer and is a dielectric - that is, it is completely safe for any electrical equipment.

Anticorrosive protection of the suspension is not an unnecessary measure. In fact, it is unlikely that any suspension arm will have time to rust through even in a quarter of a century. However, it would not be superfluous to provide anti-corrosion protection to the cups on which the suspension springs rest. On many cars, local rusting of the lower coils of the spring is the cause of their premature breaking. Also, a modern anti-corrosion agent, which is applied by aerosol, protects everything rubber elements chassis: numerous boots, silent blocks, elements of supports and fastenings. In addition, anticorrosive protects everything from rusting. threaded connections: All nuts, bolts and screws will be easier to unscrew during repairs.

But what no anti-corrosion compound can protect are the elements exhaust system. High temperatures, to which the muffler is heated, destroy any anticorrosive agent and, in general, any coatings that fall on its surface.

A product that destroys all myths regarding anti-corrosion protection is the Canadian composition Krown T40. It is really easy and quick to apply to open and hidden surfaces of the body, protects against corrosion and neutralizes its existing sources, protects electrical equipment in engine compartment and suspension parts from exposure to aggressive environments and substances.

You can protect your car body from corrosion at one of the Krown centers.

An old UAZ is an eternal car, not least due to the fact that it is very, very difficult to sell. Still, it’s a very amateurish car. And even then, even if you sell it, you can’t get back the spent mental strength. Therefore, it is worth trying to make the UAZ live longer and pass from generation to generation, from father to son, like a family curse...

From this point of view, it is worth considering the process of assembling the UAZ - fortunately, the engine has just been changed and the car is, in principle, already running. AND main principle here it is:

“Remember! The bolt you tightened is yours to unscrew!”

In general, properly assembling a car is a much dirtier matter than disassembling it. Disassembly - well, rust, well, soil was packed everywhere, well, oil was oozing here and there (along all the joints... But reassembly was a careful job. All fasteners unscrewed during disassembly are covered in kerosene. Yes, just like that, right in the trough with kerosene - splash!

If you do assembly and disassembly more or less professionally, I highly recommend an ultrasonic bath. On Chinese analogues You can buy them on eBay for 800 rubles each. You pour kerosene into it, put the bolts in, and take them out clean, like new. But if this is an infrequent thing, then you can tinker with a brush, no big deal. We put the bolts washed in kerosene on a rag, let the kerosene drain and be absorbed, and start playing Cinderella:

We sort the fasteners into special cassettes (I have a whole stack of them), and at the same time sort them into good and bad ones. We mercilessly throw the latter in the trash - it costs more to use it. Broken thread in good place can create so much work for the grinder and welding that it’s better not to...

Of course, ideally it is better to replace all the fasteners with new titanium gold-plated ones, but doing this every time is too expensive. Therefore, I only replace the damaged one, and you do as you wish.

Another good principle:

“If you take it apart, lubricate it with anticorrosive!”

Very opportunity– the muzzle has already been removed, all that remains is to take off the wings, fortunately this is a simple matter. (Hint is a screwdriver with an attachment for bolts ( not advertising) greatly reduces the time required to unscrew many identical nuts. Vzhiiiiik - and you're done. It’s a pity, you can’t get them everywhere...)

Why is this necessary? And then, most likely, when you remove the wings, you will see something like this:

UAZ does not have innate anti-corrosion protection, so taking care of its safety is our task. In general, the lack of wings even suits him, don’t you think? – Some classical brutality appears:

I personally consider the best anticorrosive agent of all time to be a mixture of gun fat and nigrol ( not advertising):

Take a jar of pushsal (150 rubles) and a liter of nigrol (50 rubles), heat the pushsal on the stove until liquid, pour nigrol into it, stir. The more nigrol, the thinner the anticorrosive. For cavities you need liquid, for external elements– thicker, so adjust it yourself.

This is truly a hellish black mixture - it permeates everything, including loose rust, flows into all the cracks, never dries out and is not completely removed by anything.

And, yes, she gets dirty. No, not like that - she GET DIRTY! Be prepared for the fact that everything will be covered in greasy black spots - the body, interior, tools, clothes, garage and yourself - up to your ears. After several trips on dusty roads, it will at least stop flowing from the frame - it will form protective layer, - but until then everything will be in anticorrosive.

In those hard-to-reach places where there is no way to pour powder, I spray with aerosol Movil ( not advertising):

So, we’ve cleaned off the rust, picked up a brush - and apply our anticorrosive agent wherever we can:

Don't forget the wings either:

Actually, it’s worth replacing the seal that goes into the joints, but I didn’t have one, so I installed an old one. Don't take my example, children!

Okay, probably not the last time I’m filming...

I didn’t get to the cavities this time, I left it for vacation, but, in short, the technology is as follows:

Anticorrosive agent diluted with nigrol is poured into specially drilled holes at the end of the box (you can use a transmission syringe, for example). The holes are then plugged with plastic plugs (there are special plugs). Then the machine is tilted so that the liquid flows to the other end of the box. We temporarily plug the drainage holes with plasticine to prevent it from leaking out prematurely. It’s good to do this in the sun, but you can also warm up the box with a heat gun, especially when it comes to frame cavities.

After this, you can be calm about the future of our UAZ - it will be inherited not only by children, but also by grandchildren..

I have been practicing this graphite-oil therapy for many years, and have been grateful to myself for it many times - especially when disassembling the suspension after several years of use. Everything unscrews literally like clockwork.

Did you all miss? Can be collected. The next time you disassemble, repeat the procedure if necessary.

And now - wash off. Personally, I use Chistik ( also, alas, not advertising) – it removes the hellish mixture of nigrol and pushsal perfectly, and does not irritate the skin, although it stinks disgustingly...

This post, unfortunately, was not paid for by the manufacturers. automotive chemistry and power tools. Hey, manufacturers, why are you lost? I'll take it in kind! 🙂

Modern factory anticorrosion protection quite effectively protects the body from corrosion. But nothing lasts forever. To keep iron in good condition, the protection needs to be updated. In addition, proper treatment will help slow down the corrosion process that has already begun for a long time.

Underground workers

In addition to the visible wear of the lower part of the body from constant sandblasting and road reagents, corrosion of the internal cavities is inevitable. Weld seams and rolled joints of door panels and trunk lids are also at particular risk. The problem with such areas is inadequate priming and painting, even in factory conditions.

The corrosion process is noticeably accelerated in hidden cavities. Due to poor ventilation, moisture and dirt accumulate there, mixed with road reagents, forming an electrolyte - a corrosion catalyst. And if its external manifestations are visible on the welded points of the bottom, on welds and in places where panels overlap, then everything is much worse inside.

The drying time for the bottom after washing depends on the equipment available in a particular service. For example, two heat guns with a power of 24 kW, providing a flow of hot air with an intensity of 2500–3000 l/min, cope with the task in about half an hour. At the same time, they are sequentially moved under the car in order to fully dry the hidden cavities. The drying time for the bottom after washing depends on the equipment available in a particular service. For example, two heat guns with a power of 24 kW, providing a flow of hot air with an intensity of 2500–3000 l/min, cope with the task in about half an hour. At the same time, they are sequentially moved under the car in order to fully dry the hidden cavities.

Before application, the underbody and hidden cavities of an older car are washed and dried. This procedure itself significantly delays the onset of serious corrosion, since it rids the surface of aggressive electrolyte.

To protect the body, two main methods of anti-corrosion treatment are used.

Canadian approach

Canada has a humid, cold climate that favors the appearance and development of corrosion. Therefore, it is Canada that is considered the legislator of the so-called ML method of body protection, although it was invented in Scandinavia.

The method involves pouring ML oils (analogues of the usual Movil and the popular Rast Stop product) into hidden cavities of the entire body through existing factory technological holes and drainages. Penetrating compounds penetrate welds well and cover internal surfaces film that reliably insulates from contact with air. The outside of the bottom is covered with the same materials.

The ML method is not demanding on the quality of body preparation and forgives a lot of mistakes when applying the composition. In Canada, for example, they don’t wash the bottom thoroughly, but only knock off large pieces of dirt. The ML oils used have excellent penetrating ability and saturate surfaces and seams well even in such conditions.

They can be applied over any rust - they contain inhibitors (moderators). chemical reaction) corrosion. But to achieve maximum effect It is better to thoroughly rinse the bottom and its hidden cavities.

When treating open underbody panels with ML oils, it is permissible to pour over almost everything except the exhaust system and oxygen sensors. Moreover, it will not be a big problem if the protective composition gets into the outlet: it will not ignite from heated pipes, but will burn, giving off a slight smell. But the lambda probes need to be covered: if even a little oil gets into the windows of the outer housing, the sensor will die.

The disadvantage of ML oils is low mechanical strength. In hidden cavities they last for years, and on open surfaces they wear off quite quickly.

Chemical manufacturers also develop processing schemes for machines of specific models. They indicate factory technological holes and additional ones that are proposed to be drilled in order to fully fill all hidden cavities. In fact, servicemen rarely make holes in the body - if only because the owners are often against it. In most cases, additional holes are not so necessary for full processing. By the way, these diagrams are useful for studying the structure of a particular body, especially when a rare model arrives for processing.

SWEDISH REPLY The abbreviation ML denotes anti-corrosion compounds for hidden cavities car body, as well as processing method. Behind these letters are two authors: the Swedish automobile association Motormannen and the ideologist of the direction, Sven Laurin. At the end of the 50s of the last century, one of the specialized companies offered car owners a new service - complete body processing using the ML method. Although this technology was first tested 20 years earlier. The Swedish ancestry is explained by the difficult local climate, which accelerates the processes of iron corrosion. On a global scale, power engineers faced this problem when the country began to actively build high-voltage masts. Their tubular structures were rotting from the inside at an alarming rate. It was then that Laurin proposed his own method - pour anti-corrosion oils into hidden cavities through existing or drilled holes. Movil, the Soviet analogue of Swedish ML oils, received a consonant name by accident. This composition was developed much later by scientists in Moscow and Vilnius, the Russian and Lithuanian capitals, and gave the product a name. In those days, it was fashionable to invent funny abbreviations and abbreviations.

old light

The second approach is European, more serious. In addition to treating hidden cavities with ML oils, hard (bitumen) oils are applied to open underbody panels and wheel arches. protective compounds. This method is more demanding on quality preparatory work. It is important to thoroughly wash the open bottom panels, otherwise the bitumen compounds will quickly peel off.

The main advantage of bitumen coatings is their high mechanical strength. Their various types, for example composition for liquid fender liners or for bottom panels, they can protect the metal from external influences for a long time.

These coatings are also additional. They are applied in several layers, and a film of this thickness is enough to reduce the level of vibration of the panels. On some machines the effect is more noticeable, on others less. Important role plays the subjective perception of the driver and design features car.

Bituminous coatings can be applied to rust, but with reservations. If the corrosion is superficial, just in case, the affected area is impregnated with ML oil and after that a solid composition is applied. With deeper layer-by-layer rust, impregnation with ML composition may not help. Moreover, the development of corrosion cannot be controlled, because bitumen coatings, unlike ML oils, are opaque. Therefore, in each specific case, the master assesses the degree of rust damage and the possibility of applying a bitumen coating over it.

When treating the bottom with a bitumen composition, the same restrictions apply as with ML oils. If bitumen gets into the outlet, like ML oils, it can be removed with solvents, but you will have to spend much more time and effort.

DANGEROUS SAVINGS There are a huge number of companies on the market offering their anti-corrosion compounds. All products have comparable quality, but preference should be given to well-known players, for example: Tectyl, Noxudol, Dinitrol, Waxoyl. Branded chemicals are not the cheapest, but they have been tested many times. This is what specialized services work with, having seen the results of using products from dubious manufacturers. Low-quality products do not protect, but kill the body. For example, left ML oils, instead of deeply impregnating surfaces and seams, creating a protective layer, act in the opposite way. They have very low fluidity, clog drains, and also form a thick membrane film, under which corrosion only accelerates. And cheap bitumen compounds have extremely low term services. Drying quickly and cracking, they to some extent protect the body from mechanical stress, but not from corrosion.

Election campaign

When operating the machine year-round, big city Where roads are actively watered in winter, the first external signs of internal corrosion appear after about five years or 100,000 km. The most economical way to significantly extend the life of the body is to wash the underbody and its hidden cavities every 50,000–70,000 km. In Moscow, this service costs 2000–3000 rubles.

Ideally, it is worth supplementing the first wash of the bottom with treatment of its hidden cavities. Moreover, at the next visit, for example after 50,000 km, it is no longer necessary to rinse the internal cavities and refill them with ML oil - it “lives” there for a very long time. Such complex processing will save a decent amount. For example, for 8,000–9,000 rubles they will thoroughly wash the bottom, treat hidden cavities and apply ML oils to open panels.

This option is suitable for normal urban use. On open surfaces under such conditions, ML oils can withstand 20,000–30,000 km. And if the bottom is covered with plastic shields, the composition will last much longer. A combined approach is also possible. Unprotected and particularly susceptible to sand blasting areas are covered with a bitumen composition. An owner who wants his car to have a long life can “douse” it with ML oils every year over the old coatings.

Treatment with bituminous materials makes sense when operating in harsh conditions and very large annual mileages. This option suitable for amateurs off-road driving and owners commercial vehicles, as well as participants in amateur racing. It is suitable for both used and new cars. The bitumen coating on the bottom, if not actively killed, lasts for five to seven years. That is, it is quite enough for the average period of car ownership. After the bitumen coating has worn out, it is partially cleaned off and a fresh layer is applied. A package of services, including washing, treating hidden cavities with ML oils and applying a bitumen coating to the bottom, is estimated at about 15,000 rubles.

The costs of protecting the body are comparable to the costs of car maintenance - complex treatment with ML oils and treatment with bitumen compounds cost the same as the first and second maintenance, respectively. Usually it is enough to spend money on anti-corrosion treatment only once or twice - this investment is recouped when the car is sold.

ONE BLOOD Bituminous materials for protecting underbody panels and fender liners have a single base, but differ from each other, let’s say, in their additive packages. They are added to increase the mechanical strength of the coating in the zone of active external influence - for example, on wheel arches. For this purpose in basic foundation include reinforcing filler - crumb rubber. Accordingly, such a composition will be more expensive. This coating can be applied to other parts of the body. Let's say, on thresholds subject to strong sandblasting from wheels. Manufacturers supply compositions for liquid fender liners in different containers and different consistencies, but with the same characteristics. Thanks to this, services can use the most convenient equipment to work with them. Thick compositions are applied with a brush in several layers, and liquid ones - with a sprayer or euro-gun. More viscous material can be diluted with a solvent to use any available equipment.

We would like to thank Antikor.rf for their help in preparing the material.

Almost any car owner, having locked the car and walked some distance, will definitely turn around to once again admire his car and evaluate its condition.

The car is constantly exposed to aggressive action environment. The main enemy is moisture - the cause of rust.

To protect against it, machine parts must be treated with an anti-corrosion coating. The car care market offers many options. One of the most popular is treating a car with cannon fat.

Requirements for anti-corrosion coating

The correct anticorrosive agent must have the following properties:

1. Form an elastic film on a metal surface.
2. Possess a high degree of adhesion - adhesion of various surfaces in solid or liquid form.
3. Impregnate not only smooth surfaces, but also penetrate into cracks and depressions.
4. Displace accumulated moisture.
5. Wet the surface well.
6. Should not dry out.
7. Do not form cracks where water can penetrate.
8. No special surface preparation is required.
9. Be resistant to the mechanical effects of small particles rising from the road surface - gravel, sand, pebbles.
10. Be resistant to temperature changes and maintain its characteristics at any time of the year.

The use of cannon tallow satisfies these requirements and creates reliable insulation from the environment. The composition of cannon lard is petroleum oil, which is thickened with petrolatum and ceresin. To provide operational properties an anti-corrosion additive is added.

The coating received its name due to the fact that it was first used to preserve artillery weapons, including guns.

Benefits of cannon lard

Main features of the substance:

• high degree of elasticity;
• ability to stay on the surface without rolling off during application and further use;
• lack of interaction with water, which allows it to be successfully used on the bottom of a car;
• temperature range of use – from minus 50° to plus 50°C;
• protection against corrosion when exposed to sea water and salt fog;
• Application area: ferrous and non-ferrous metal surfaces.

Visually it is a homogeneous ointment-like mass with a color ranging from yellow to light brown. Sold in metal cans or buckets various capacities. Packaging starts from 1 kg.

The price of this type of anti-corrosion coating is very affordable. For comparison, the table shows the cost depending on volume and manufacturer.

Advice! You can save on your purchase by purchasing goods in stores that provide their services via the Internet.

Preparation

Before applying the coating, you should prepare everything you need. To carry out anti-corrosion treatment you will need:

• cannon fat in a jar or bucket;
• breeding agent;
• electric stove or hair dryer;
• paint brush;
• syringe.

We should especially talk about the breeding agent. There are several options for diluting cannon fat to a liquid state.

For this the following can be used:

• petrol;
• solvent;
• used oil;
• anti-corrosion agent like RUST STOP.

Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages. The solvent will cost a little more. The processing properties depend on what kind of oil was originally used.

Anti-corrosion agent RUST STOP is one of the substances that successfully fights metal corrosion. Manufacturer: Canadian company A.M.T. Inc."

The advantage of RUST STOP is that it never freezes. Being in a semi-liquid state, this product fills all cracks and scratches on the metal surface without damaging the rubber parts. A layer of corrosion inhibitors reliably protects the surface from the appearance of.

This anti-corrosion agent does not require particularly careful preparation of the surface to be treated - it can be applied over a slight layer of rust. As a result, the technology is greatly simplified anti-corrosion treatment, the time for the entire process is reduced. Extra Bonus– the manufacturer uses various fragrances, for example, cherry or strawberry.

Information! Adding the product to cannon lard gives it anti-corrosion properties and promotes better spreading. Inhibitors reduce the rate of corrosion.

Mode of application

First you need to prepare the car. Everything needs to be removed plastic parts, interfering with work. Rinse the surfaces that will be protected. Remove traces of corrosion. Degrease the surface by wiping it with white spirit.

Then you should prepare the cannon fat. This work consists of heating it and bringing it to the consistency of thick sour cream. You can heat it on an electric stove, stirring constantly. It is also possible to use a hair dryer.

About two minutes after the end of heating, add solvent to the melted lard or in a ratio of 4:1. The solution is ready for use.

On large surfaces the solution is applied with a paint brush. Treating the underbody of a car with cannon fat requires that the car must be raised on jacks. It will be even more convenient to work while in the inspection hole.

It is wise to place a container below where the excess will drain or drip. Apply cannon lard to the surface using broad strokes. Each layer should be 0.3-0.4 mm thick. When it comes into contact with a cold car, the lard sets quickly. After hardening, you can apply another one on top.

It would be a mistake to treat only the outer surfaces. Be sure to carefully inspect the interior and lubricate the metal parts inside it. Moisture gets inside the car through cracks, causing rust to form there.

In addition to large surfaces, working with which does not present much difficulty, you will have to deal with more inaccessible places:

• pour liquid through the technological holes into the existing cavities;
• process thresholds and door openings;

This is where you will need a syringe, with which you can pump the anticorrosive agent under pressure into the necessary cavities.

By spending more time on careful treatment, the car owner can ensure peace of mind for several years.

Safety rules must be followed:

• work with gloves;
• carry out processing outdoors, or, if not possible, in a well-ventilated garage;
• Do not leave an electric stove on unattended.

The time it takes for a stable film to form is approximately 30 minutes.

Comparison with other types - reviews

There are many forums where the properties of various anti-corrosion coatings are discussed. This topic worries almost all car enthusiasts. Questions are asked and successful experiences are shared.