Antifreeze replacement in domestic Lada Kalina cars is carried out every 5 years, or after 75,000 km. Completing this task before due date can be performed when the color of the coolant changes, the radiator is repaired, there is a leak in the system, as well as when performing other work in the engine cooling system.
Which antifreeze is better and how much to fill in Lada Kalina?
To execute complete replacement antifreeze, in a Kalina/Kalina 2 car, you will need 7.8 liters of coolant. At the factory, the manufacturer pours a red composition of the Felix type. To carry out the work, you need to purchase a 10-liter canister of antifreeze or two small containers of 5 liters each.
If the manufacturer filled it with red coolant, then it is not advisable to change it to a composition of another color. Alternatively, the following products can be used:
- SINTEC Luxury G-12 - red antifreeze, sold in a 10 liter container.
- NIAGARA G12, red, 10 l.
- FELIX Carbox-40. Color - red, 10 l.
- Arctic Circle G12 and others.
All of the above compositions have proven themselves to be the best side, so they can be used in Lada Kalina cars.
Replacement process
To replace antifreeze, prepare a standard set of tools. You will need a container for draining the old coolant with a volume of 6-8 liters, a sixteen socket wrench (for dismantling the starter on a car with a 16-valve engine), as well as a sixteen socket.
Replacing antifreeze should be done on a cold engine, which reduces the risk of burns. To begin, release the pressure in the cooling system by unscrewing the pipe expansion tank. To gain access to the drain plug, remove the middle mud shield.
Please note that on Lada Kalina cars equipped with engines with eight and sixteen valves, the process for replacing antifreeze differs. Removing old coolant from the radiator does not cause problems. But how to drain antifreeze from a 16-valve engine block? To solve this problem, you cannot do without unscrewing the starter.
If the engine has 8 valves
To change the coolant on a Lada Kalina with an 8-valve engine, proceed as follows:
- Relieve the pressure in the system by unscrewing the expansion tank cap.
- Remove the motor protection to get to the drain plug.
- Find a 6-8 liter container, then place it under the drain hole (located with right side, at the bottom of the radiator).
- Tighten the reservoir cap to relieve pressure in the system.
- Unscrew drain plug and allow the fluid to drain completely from the radiator.
Let's look at how to drain antifreeze from the cylinder block of an 8-valve engine. Removing the coolant is carried out in several steps:
- Locate the drain cap (it's located under the ignition coil).
- Take the key to “thirteen” and, with its help, unscrew the drain plug.
- Place the container and wait complete removal coolant.
If the engine has 16 valves
Regarding the question of how to drain antifreeze on a 16-valve engine, a different approach is required here. To gain access to the drain plug, you will have to remove the starter. If this work is not done and the plug is immediately unscrewed, then the coolant will flow directly onto it, which can lead to damage to the starter.
To avoid this problem, do the following:
- Discard the block with wires from traction relay(installed on the starter).
- Remove the protective cap from the “plus”.
- Using a "thirteen" wrench, unscrew the nut and remove the wire.
- Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the three starter mounting bolts and then remove it.
- Unscrew the drain plug and drain the antifreeze from the cylinder block.
As soon as the old coolant has left the cavity, tighten the plug with a torque of 25-30 N*m. In the same way, tighten the cap on the radiator, then pour antifreeze into the expansion tank until it is full.
Start the engine and press on the system pipes, thus stimulating better coolant passage through the system. Keep the liquid level in the tank under control - it should be between the Min and Max marks.
Checking the functionality of the thermostat
If problems arise in the cooling system, you should be able to determine whether the thermostat is working properly. While the engine is warming up, touch the outlet pipe at the bottom. It starts out cold, but should warm up over time. This suggests that the antifreeze has gone in a big circle. As soon as the fan turns on, turn off the engine and check the antifreeze level in the tank. That's all - the replacement of antifreeze can be considered complete.
It is also worth noting that, if damaged, the expansion tank cap no longer holds pressure. The only solution is to install new part. After replacing the coolant in the Lada Kalina, inspect the cooling system elements again for leaks, and also replace the clamps.
Now you know how to drain antifreeze in 8 and 16 valve motors Kalina frets, fill correctly new fluid into the system and remove air. Following these recommendations allows you to do the work yourself and avoid going to a service station.
Video: Replacing coolant on Lada Kalina
Video: How to check the thermostat without removing it from the car
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Welcome!
Thanks to this liquid, the car engine is cooled - crankshaft, camshaft, cylinder block and other parts. Over time, the liquid becomes unusable and loses its properties: the additives expire, the car begins to overheat much more often, and this leads to rapid engine failure.
Note!
You will need the following tools: repair kit, socket, hexagonal, wrenches and screwdrivers, a clean rag to remove traces of spilled liquid on the car engine.
Summary:
When to change the fluid?
The factory recommends changing the fluid every 75 thousand km or 3 years from the moment of filling. Keep in mind, these are deadlines. If possible, replace more often, do not let the additives wear out, because thanks to them the cooling system is protected from premature corrosion and other unfavorable things.
Note!
So, we change the fluid either according to the factory’s recommendations or appearance. To do this, unscrew the cap of the expansion tank (indicated by the arrow) and look inside. If the color of the liquid changes - it has acquired shades of rust, has become red-brown, then it is time to change it. An oil film on the surface is also an alarm bell for replacement.
How to replace coolant on a VAZ 1117-1119?
Note!
At engine operating temperature, the fluid heats up to 100 degrees - you can get burned. Sometimes you urgently need to cool the liquid - unscrew the cap of the expansion tank. Act carefully and smoothly, and completely remove the lid only if the hissing sound disappears, otherwise the air inside the tank will knock out the lid and the liquid will flow out in a column - everything around will get dirty, and you can get burned. It is best to work with a cold engine.
Remember! The liquid is highly toxic, pour it into a tightly closed container and throw it away not in a bucket, but in a landfill!
Merging
Drive the car to inspection hole and make sure it stands level. If this is not possible, park the car so that the front is higher than the rear.
Note!
Securely secure the car using the handbrake, set it to speed, place stones under rear wheels. Remove the mudguard from it (the article will be useful for you: “Replacing the engine mudguard”) and, if available, the crankcase protection.If you are 100% sure that the liquid will not get on the mudguard and protection, then you can not remove them from the car!
Note!
After removing the terminal, remove the ignition module from the car by unscrewing the hex bolts (described in detail in the article: “Replacing the ignition module on a VAZ”!). Applies to 8 valve cars; for 16 valve cars we do not remove the module.
Unscrew the cap of the expansion tank and place some container under the plug drain hole cylinder block (indicated by arrow). Remove it using a spanner and drain all the liquid from the block into a substitute container. Now repeat the steps for the radiator fluid; there is a plug on it that can be unscrewed by hand.
Note!
Liquid from the drain hole will stain the cylinder block. Take a cloth and wipe dry the places where it got in!
Close both plugs and move to throttle assembly. You will find a hose that goes to drain the coolant (see photo). Loosen the clamp on the hose and disconnect it by hand from the throttle assembly fitting (the fitting is indicated by the arrow).
Note!
This operation will help avoid air locks: air entering the pipes does not allow fluid to escape into the expansion tank; instead of the required fluid level, there will be air, which means the engine will overheat. By the way, because of the traffic jams, the stove heats very poorly!
Pouring
Start by yourself or ask an assistant to pour liquid into the expansion tank while holding the drain hose (we disconnected it from the throttle body). As soon as liquid begins to flow out of it, connect it to its place and tighten the fastening clamp thoroughly.
Note!
Continue pouring liquid until it reaches MAX marks on the tank. Screw the tank cap tightly, the main thing is not to break the thread - we observe the measure everywhere. See the video below for more details, keep in mind that it’s not Kalina!
Reinstall the previously removed parts, connect the battery, get into the car, start it and wait until it warms up. operating temperature. When you hear the fan turn on, turn off the car and see how much fluid is in the tank. If necessary, bring the level to normal.
Note!
Check to see if an air lock has formed - turn on the heater on a warm car and check what kind of air comes out of it. Cold - most likely a plug has formed, hot - everything is fine, you replaced the fluid correctly. Watch the color of the liquid. A quick change in color indicates a fake - we replace it urgently.
If a plug forms, squeeze the hoses of the cooling system (the photo shows the Kalina cooling system, you don’t need to touch each hose, just feel the thickest pipes) - as a rule, it helps. IN as a last resort Let the car cool down completely and unscrew the expansion tank cap, then start and let the car run for a few minutes (about 3-4 minutes). Plug it, tighten the plug and recheck the formation of air pockets in the cooling system.
Additional video
The video shows the process of replacing the fluid on a VAZ 2110. On Kalina, it’s basically the same, the shape of the radiator drain plug is different. The drain hose connecting to the throttle assembly is located closer to the front of the car on Kalina than on the 2110 model (closer to the rear).
Hello, dear viewers of my channel, and fans of the Kalina car. The time has come to replace the coolant. This means that I was filled with this kind of liquid, antifreeze TS-40, well, I couldn’t find such antifreeze.
I found this one, it’s a Dzerzhinsky a40m, the freezing temperature is 40, I measured it with a tosolometer, a hydrometer, the temperature turns out to be even a little higher.
So I think it's quite normal. It happened to me, I was at a crossroads whether to fill it with antifreeze or antifreeze.
What is the difference between them?
Well, as far as I read on the Internet, antifreeze is purely the product of our Soviet Union, and antifreeze is a purely foreign product.
As for additives, well, given our economy and our control over the production of various products, both fuels and food, no one controls.
As you can see, there is no GOST, there is just a tag stuck on, and it is not clear what it represents. As the seller said, although you can also trust them every now and then, that he always buys it, everyone takes it, and no matter how problems there are.
I want to say right away that the replacement, I was prompted to replace it by what I had filmed before - showing the replacement of the pump, it was a big deal for me.
And yet the reason, I think, is due to the fact that I haven’t changed the antifreeze practically since 2009, but it needs to be changed, as the manufacturers write, once every two years, well, at least once every 3 years.
Because here on our Kalinovsky car there are no more lubricating parts that lubricate the antifreeze, mainly just the pump, and it is clear that the antifreeze has worn out and all the additives have gone to nothing.
Because here I was heating up the car, although I didn’t overheat it much, well, it was heating up because I had problems with the fan, with cooling the radiator. Because of this, the oil seal flew off, and everything went down the drain.
Naturally, I added water and drove it, well, I don’t remember, I drove it for about half a summer, as you can see, for some reason it turned reddish, although it was greenish, antifreeze. Well, initially it was greenish, the expansion tank was just painted. It turned into an unknown color.
So, well, what do you need for this? You can, of course, unscrew it, there is one plug, I showed you when I removed it to replace the pump, and below, you see a plug on the radiator and a second one.\
You can, of course, unscrew it, take it out into the street, let it flow anywhere, well, I want to drain it normally, because it still has the ability and is possible.
In the future, I will use it to make water heating here in the garage and fill it with antifreeze. Or I’ll give it to my comrades who already have it all. Therefore, there is no point in throwing it away. And why litter the environment?
To get to this plug, to unscrew it, you see the distance is very small, of course you can try from below, well, we'll see.
We will, if necessary, then of course we will have to unscrew it here, on this side, because this nut, it is welded to this mount of the distributor, the so-called ignition coil.
Then you will have to film this, film this. Well, of course, the airbags will have to be removed. Naturally, engine protection, not protection, engine cover. Well, of the problems, not to say very much, well, there will be problems in order to get there and do it all.
For those who are too lazy, take them to a service station, pay the money and let them do it for you. Well, I’m done with the background, I’m done with the introductory part, we climb under the car and remove the protection. Well, the protection was removed, so I didn’t remove it, no problem, from below you can take a key with an extension and the plug can be unscrewed.
There are no special problems. You can unscrew it with less blood, no need to remove the air vent. This mount, the ignition coils, you don’t need to remove everything. That’s it, now we’ll cut the device out of a one and a half bottle and slowly drain it.
I warmed up the car before. But not to 90 degrees, it had already cooled down while I was poking around. But it’s even a little bit, we just continue one thing, at the same time look at the anthers on the CV joints, their integrity.
They have such a property of unexpectedly tearing, and you notice when it’s already too late to notice. Here are the indoor and outdoor ones. Well, and so, leakage, I pulled it out. It no longer oozes from the pan, but a little bit of it leaks into the oil here, the engine is clean.
Here is the plug, on this side, by the way, you can unscrew it from below, you see, it even reaches here, here you can even use a lever and you can unscrew this plug. So, on this side, here it is, here it is, the radiator cap, see?
It easily unscrews, the radiator button. So, well, let's get started. In the meantime, let's get started, first we'll probably salt it from the block, and then we'll drain it from the radiator. Well, if it works out, I'll take it off.
Of course, the process would have been simpler if I hadn’t been shooting at the same time. But, since I’ve already started doing it, then well, I need to share it with the people. Well, I cut it like this and it just fits there, and here I’ll put this container or this bucket over there.
Either this one or the bucket. And once again, if you want to preserve it and not screw it up too much, then this fastener needs to be removed. Without removing it, it will turn out... Well, of course, I screwed it up a little, but not much.
Otherwise, it would have been even better, when I changed the pump, you can watch the video, there were practically no losses at all.
So, you see what an expansion tank we have, mine, more precisely, is dirty. And inside we also see that it is full of all kinds of dirt. Therefore, it must be removed and washed.
It is attached, one point, a second, and there in the depths of a third. Everything is as always, 2 by 10, 1 by 8 nuts. Here, however, there is a bolt for 8. But the nuts that you need are for 10.
Still, I will try to briefly tell you what antifreeze and antifreeze are, so that you don’t have to go through the literature and poke around looking for information. I'll tell you all about it briefly. I already climbed and found it.
This means that antifreeze is the international name for coolant for the engine cooling system. Antifreeze is the same antifreeze, only domestic production. Antifreeze.
This word was coined back in the Soviet Union and it means the abbreviation Technology of Organic Synthesis, abbreviated TOS, and OL is a member of the group of alcohols.
Antifreezes are divided into mineral, class G11, and organic, class G12, and labrid, class G12++, and G13. The difference between them is the application, well, the base used and the additives.
Antifreeze is a mineral antifreeze; it has a service life of 50,000 km, or 2 years. Organic antifreeze is, after all, G12, and can be used for up to 5 years and 250,000 km.
Labrid antifreezes are compatible with any other coolants. They can be safely added to new engines.
One of the points is that the canister says 10 kg, but this is not 10 liters. Don't confuse this. Because they usually buy 10, look at 10, then that’s 10 kilograms, well, of course, many people know that they often use it.
And those who will be confused for the first time. 10 kg is only 8.85 liters. And as I said, 7.85 liters are poured into the engine, this is not 7 kg. What they would also have, know and mean.
You can choose which is better, antifreeze or antifreeze, based on the coolant of the car. Since in different cars it consists of different materials.
Some brands use predominantly more copper and brass in the cooling system, while others use aluminum and its alloys. Thus, red antifreeze is suitable if the car has more copper and brass, green antifreeze Suitable if everything is made of aluminum.
Antifreeze in most cases will fit domestic cars. Is it possible to mix antifreeze and antifreeze, and what happens if you mix them? Well, this is a rhetorical question, as they say.
If there is no control over production, this can lead to bad consequences. Therefore, this is all at your own peril and risk. Here's a pretty simple calculation you can do.
Well, that's it, today, I should have filled it yesterday. Well, since my expansion tank is incredibly dirty, I tried to wash it with soda, and here I came and started washing it with caustic soda, but it does not wash. I'll show you now.
The next moment means traffic jams, I told you, yes, about putting the faucet here. So, look right away, the faucet here that I wanted to put here, it doesn’t fit here in size. But there is no point in removing the gearbox to install the faucet, and there is no desire.
Why did I remove the so-called cover, or protection, which is decorative on top. So that when you pour antifreeze into the expansion tank, naturally there will be water, oh, air, and opening the cap and waiting for it to flow from there is wasteful.
For this there is this, it fits the throttle valve tube, this is the heating throttle valve, this is what you’re filming. Well, I'll show you. Here you pry it with a screwdriver, because it’s a little difficult to remove, it won’t come off.
Of course you can rip it off, but why? Unscrew the clamp, pry it up with a screwdriver, and the air comes out until liquid appears. Well, it’s advisable to put a cloth here, because there is a connector here so that it doesn’t get flooded.
It is, after all, an aggressive liquid. There is ethylene glycol, which does not have a beneficial effect on human health, and, I think, on contacts. Well, that's it. Now we’ll clean out the tank and set it up, we’ll fill it.
Well, I put the expansion tank in place, but I couldn’t wash it perfectly, because these partitions, you can’t get into it with anything. I washed it with plain soda, soda ash, and shampoo.
You have to make physical efforts, well, that is, I washed here from below, you see, but here nothing happened. When you try to shuffle there, it rubs off.
Therefore, if someone has done this and was able to clean it, write in the comments. We will use it. And I proceeded from the fact that from an aesthetic point of view it is not beautiful, but I think that it does not affect the speed. There is no obvious dirt there, just a brown coating.
Let's continue. Both plugs are screwed in, this one is also screwed in, by the way, it screws in easily and unscrews easily, and it’s very good that it doesn’t let anything through. I screwed this up too. I’ll try to install a smaller faucet a second time, because the one I wanted is in the way.
So, the expansion tank is standing, the funnel is standing, the antifreeze is ready. Now let's start filling. Well, I prepared it here too. Well, everything else you need, nothing else is needed. We unscrew it, no need to pound it, and fill it in.
So, we look, the plug is not leaking. It's still too early, of course. Normal there too. Here, you see, the antifreeze has gone. Well, it’s clear that antifreeze will not flow here for the simple reason that the level is higher.
Well, here it goes, the system fills up. You fill this belt, see? Minimum/maximum. There is no need to fill in more, so that there is no excess later. Now he's leaving again. There are no leaks.
Just be careful not to tear the hose. That's it, it doesn't go away anymore. The air is out. So, now all that’s left is to start it and top it up to level. That's it, let's try now.
You can see the level is just a little bit, the antifreeze does not go away, there are no leaks anywhere, there are no leaks, everything is fine here. The level should be up to this belt, it is just there somewhere. Look, you see how much is left, how much was, how much is left. Well, there was, well, maybe a liter left somewhere.
Replacing antifreeze on Kalina occurs in several stages:
- drain the antifreeze.
- fill in new antifreeze.
- Remove air from the engine cooling system.
How to drain antifreeze on Kalina
Place a container under the drain hole (in the lower part of the right radiator tank) with a volume of at least 6 liters.- Drain the antifreeze into a container. When draining the liquid, unscrew the cap of the expansion tank.
- To drain the coolant from the engine cooling jacket, place a container under the drain hole located on the front side of the cylinder block, closer to the clutch housing.
- Unscrew the drain plug of the cylinder block using a 13mm wrench. Drain the antifreeze from the system.
We tighten the drain plugs of the radiator and cylinder block.
Pour clean coolant (5-6 l) into the engine cooling system through the expansion tank.
Remove air lock Kalina
With the engine running, vigorously compress all the hoses of the cooling system several times in turn, this will help the antifreeze fill the system and expel air from it. As the coolant level in the expansion tank drops, bring it to normal and screw on the tank cap.When the engine warms up, the outlet (lower) radiator hose should be cold for some time, and then quickly heat up, which will indicate the beginning of fluid circulation in a large circle. After waiting for the cooling system fan to turn on, stop the engine.
If the fluid level in the expansion tank is constantly decreasing, then there is most likely a leak in the cooling system. In this case, it is necessary to check the tightness of the cooling system and eliminate the malfunction (see "
We replace the coolant after 75,000 km or after five years, whichever comes first. For refilling, a liquid with a freezing point of no higher than -40 ° C is used.
The volume of the engine cooling system, including the interior heating system, is 7.84 liters.
To complete the work you will need wide container with a volume of at least 8 liters.
It is more convenient to carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.
Mixing coolants different brands not allowed.
Execution Sequence
1. We prepare the car for work.
2. Remove the engine splash guard or crankcase protection (if installed).
3. We place a container with a volume of at least 8 liters under the radiator drain hole.
To reduce splashing of coolant when draining it, do not remove the expansion tank cap before performing the following operation.
4. Unscrew the radiator drain plug and drain the liquid into a container.
5. Having moved the container under the cylinder block, use a socket wrench by 13 mm unscrew the drain plug of the cylinder block and drain the remaining liquid in it.
6. After the liquid stops leaking from the cylinder block, screw both plugs into place.
7. Unscrew and remove the expansion tank cap and install a funnel in the tank.
8. Fill the expansion tank with new coolant.
Use coolant with a freezing point 10-15 "C below the average temperature in winter period in the region in which the vehicle is operated.
9. Fill the liquid up to the top mark of the expansion tank. We start the engine and let it run at high speeds until the electric fan turns on. When the level in the tank drops, add liquid.
General information on coolant
ANTIFREEZE FREEZES
A mixture of antifreeze and water is an example of a composition whose freezing point differs from the freezing temperatures of its components - pure antifreeze and pure water.
Freezing point of liquids
Pure water 0°C
Pure antifreeze* -18°С
Mixture: 50/50 -37°С
Mixture: 70% antifreeze to 30% water -64°C
*Pure antifreeze is usually a 95% ethylene glycol solution containing 2% to 3% water, and 2% to 3% additives. Depending on the percentage of water, antifreeze sold in cans freezes at temperatures ranging from -13°C to -22°C. Therefore, the easiest way is to simply remember that antifreeze usually freezes at a temperature of about -18°C.
The boiling point of a mixture of antifreeze and water also depends on the concentration of the components of the mixture.
CHECKING THE COOLANT USING A HYDROMETER
The coolant can be checked using a hydrometer. A hydrometer measures the density of the coolant. The higher its density, the higher the concentration of antifreeze in the water. Most coolant hydrometers show the freezing point and boiling point immediately (Figure 7.15). If the engine overheats and the hydrometer shows a value close to -46°C, this means that there is pure antifreeze in the cooling system. It is best when the freezing point of the coolant used is below -29°C and the boiling point is above 112°C.
Rice. 7.15. Checking the freezing point and boiling point of coolant using a hydrometer
If 50% is good, then 100% must be even better
The car owner believed that neither ice nor rust could simply form in the cooling system, because instead of a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water, he poured 100% antifreeze (ethylene glycol) into his car.
But when the air temperature dropped to -29°C, the coolant in the radiator froze and it burst. (Pure antifreeze freezes at about -18°C). After the radiator was defrosted, it had to be repaired. The owner of the car was glad at least that the engine cylinder block did not burst.
For maximum protection from freezing, while maintaining a sufficiently high heat transfer efficiency, use a mixture of antifreeze and water in equal proportions. This mixture is the best compromise option for temperature characteristics and heat transfer efficiency necessary for the operation of the cooling system. Do not exceed the concentration of antifreeze in the solution above 70% (30% water). As the concentration of antifreeze increases (up to 70%), the boiling point of the mixture increases, the freezing point of the mixture decreases, but at the same time the efficiency of heat transfer of the mixture decreases.
The wind has absolutely nothing to do with it
The wind heat loss coefficient is a correction factor that takes into account additional heat loss at a given temperature, depending on the wind speed. It essentially determines the equivalent temperature at which heat loss from the surface of unprotected skin in the complete absence of wind is equal to heat loss at a given temperature and a given wind speed. Since this coefficient represents the heat loss coefficient for unprotected skin, wind temperature is not applicable to assessing the frost resistance of a coolant.
Blowing the radiator speeds up the cooling of the fluid, but does not affect the temperature to which the coolant can cool. It depends on the air temperature, which is not affected by wind speed. Don't believe me? See for yourself. Bring the thermometer into the room and wait until its readings are established. Now turn on the fan and direct the air flow towards the thermometer. This will not affect his testimony.
REGENERATED COOLANT
Used coolant (antifreeze and water) must be regenerated. The used coolant may contain metals - lead, aluminum and iron, which accumulate during its operation in the engine.
Regeneration units remove these metals and contaminants from the liquid and restore the concentration of depleted additives. Reclaimed coolant, once reconditioned, becomes like new again and can be reused in the vehicle.
ATTENTION
Most car manufacturers warn that coolant can only be reused after it has been regenerated and the additive percentage has been restored.
STORAGE OF USED COOLANT
Used coolant drained from a vehicle can usually be placed in the same container as the used oil. In units used for used oil regeneration, the coolant is easily separated from the used oil. Check with the companies that are mandated by your local or state government to dispose of these wastes to determine which waste liquid storage method is installed in your area (Figure 7.16).
Rice. 7.16. Used coolant must be stored separately in a sealed container until it can be reclaimed or disposed of in accordance with federal, state and local laws. Please note that the container for collecting used coolant is in the pan - this is done to prevent coolant from spilling from the container in which it is stored
