We present the ATV of our permanent author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next car he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself ...

A year has passed since I drove out of the garage and tried out my first ATV with rear wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not make now an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English All Terrain Vehicle - an all-terrain vehicle; such an international designation was given to such machines).

Fortunately, at this time a buyer turned up on a buggy (), and the proceeds went towards the implementation of a new project.

A year of labor for 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, there were only minor (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

The frame of the machine is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, crossbars, etc.) are made of VGT-20. The side members are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "cold". I welded the lugs (pairs of lugs) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers to the frame at once, and welded various brackets as the assemblies and assemblies were mounted (in place).

1 - front wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

2 - engine (from the car "Oka");

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - a gearbox (from the Oka car);

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank (20 liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - muffler;

11 - backrest of the passenger (headrest from the car "Oka");

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear fixing lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");

18 - front trunk

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, there is no transfer case in it. As you know, in "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheel (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. Here are just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and the gearbox, had to be shifted relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry slightly to the left in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal joint shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission has been assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial units also had to be refined. For example, from the checkpoint (from "Oka") to ensure the optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain transmission. The gearshift rod was also made different - lengthened, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel reduction gears are from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts together with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are used as hinges in the rest of the transmission intermediate shafts.

1 - motor (from the car "Oka");

2 - clutch (from the Oka car);

3 - gearbox;

4 - CV JOINT (from the VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs);

5 - main gear reducer with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from the car VAZ-2108, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")

There are no low gears and no differential locks.

Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and car type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a motorcycle "Minsk", with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and delivered it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at its lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick and shaped like the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are tapered holes for the ball ends of the steering rods. These holes are reinforced with matching welded washers. The bipod ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

Wheels - 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with the corresponding rim dimensions 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel roll-in diameter is about 660 mm.

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

3 - stand (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

5 - rear strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - the upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);

9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mounting support (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear engine mounting support (sheet s3,2 pcs.);

12 - lugs for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper transverse link (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower transverse link (pipe d20x2,8,2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear footrest consoles (pipe d20x2);

20 - footboard cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - an eyelet for attaching a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)

Wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). Levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both those and others had to be finalized. In the hubs I installed studs under the wheels from the "Niva", and in the front fists - homemade swivel levers.

The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect it from thermal warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm of the rear suspension; d - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those noted specially, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the car "Zhiguli")

First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), one could easily cut the "tack". Then he bent the "wings" from hardboard (fiberboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and lintels. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I fastened separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was taken out with styrofoam purchased from a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene or the same polyurethane foam, but expanded polystyrene turned out to be a more suitable material - it is cut well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a general structure on polyurethane foam.

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - rudder connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - split bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (nylon, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - rudder travel stop (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - a persistent tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

The false tank is of a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise a thick foam volume may not dry out inside. I filled it until the layers went beyond the outline. Finally, after the foam was completely dry, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed out with coarse sandpaper.

A part of the “Oka” dashboard was used under the dashboard. I also fixed it on the disc with the help of polyurethane foam. Since the foam is coarse, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to respond to the conceived design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the dummy, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering with plaster and painting the dummy could be neglected.

So, the idiot is ready and in order to glue a high-quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 running meters of non-thick fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. Wearing breathing protection is highly desirable. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as is known, cannot be bought, so I gained it in the process.

I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the dummy and the product. Carefully, without gaps, the whole blockhead pasted over it with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

Diluted resin in 200 - 300 grams with hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on flat surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weave, "flowing" around the desired shape.

First, I smeared thickly with epoxy resin one area of ​​the boob, put glass cloth on it and soaked it on top again with resin. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also warmed up the resin a little near a powerful illumination lamp for better fluidity.

After obkpeyki boob with fiberglass in one layer, he began to paste over it with glass mat. I got the glass mat quite thick, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Resin impregnation was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that a lot of resin is used to impregnate a stekomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stekpomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had a little set, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day's break, it was necessary to "rough" the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease - after all, the resin hardens completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even one layer.

Trunks:

a - front; b - back

Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and the experience was not enough, the dips and pits still remained - I poured them somewhere with one resin, and sometimes with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. There was not enough resin. I bought it already in the household store, in boxes. I liked working with her more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than the one purchased at the company.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and rear, false tank with under-seat, front fenders and front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with poking around, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the dummy.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on "all" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking filling of recesses with fiberglass putty; then sanding the outer surface and a primer with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and coating with varnish with a plasticizer.

The blockhead also carefully cut and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.

In conclusion, I welded the front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them - "kenguryatniks" replacing the bumpers.

ATV basic data:

Weight, kg ………………………………………… 430

Length, mm ……………………………………… 2300

Width, mm

(on the outer sidewalls of tires) ……… 1250

Height, mm:

on the steering wheel ……………………………………… .1250

on the saddle ……………………………………… ..900

Ground clearance, mm …………………… .300

Base, mm ………………………………………… 1430

Track, mm ……………………………………… 1045

Maximum speed, km / h …………… .65

S. Pletnev, Ocher, Perm Territory

An ATV is virtually any four-wheeled vehicle, since the Latin word for "quadro" is "four". In the CIS, this name most often means four-wheel drive, representing the symbiosis of a motorcycle and a car. From a motorcycle, the ATV took over mobility, maneuverability, lightness, speed, and from the car - excellent characteristics of cross-country ability, power and controllability. The result is a unique vehicle designed for a variety of purposes.

The domestic market provides only foreign models of ATVs, the cost of which is often transcendental. At the same time, on the secondary transport market, you can easily find used motorcycles and cars at an extremely low price.

For example, a motorcycle "Ural" - large, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" has an excellent four-stroke engine with reverse gear and costs "a penny". For this reason, it is much cheaper and more fun for enthusiasts to create their own designs for these SUVs.

The quintessential factory ATV is shiny, neatly built, sturdy and powerful.

Its homemade cousin, which is not much inferior in appearance, and even more so in terms of power.

How to make an ATV with your own hands

Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to draw up a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own brainchild, develop a work plan and a design drawing.

Engine: the best choice

It is logical that first of all it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future "beast" - the power unit. Absolutely anything will do, from a conventional walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.

To use high gear ratios under normal operating conditions, a Minsk or Ural engine will suffice. In the summer, the issue of overheating arises, so air-cooled models should be chosen. Another good option is the Soviet-made boxer engines, the indisputable advantage of which is powerful traction and a completely unpretentious cardan drive.

Suspensions: rear and front

There are two common ATV rear suspension solutions.

1. Gear-cardan system. The design turns out to be as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously mentioned advantages.
2. Using a road bridge. The construction turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with a car base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. Of the advantages, it is worth highlighting only the presence of a differential, which is useful when driving on highways.

The possibilities for front suspension and steering are tremendous. The suspension arms of an ATV carry a significantly lower load than automobile ones, respectively, they can be made independently using available tools. The best option is to create a suspension based on the existing Ural motorcycle.

Frame: drawings and alternatives

The best solution is a robust construction made of pipes or profiles welded together.

It is ideal to remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and add the necessary elements - this eliminates a number of problems, but the design can turn out to be unnecessarily complicated.

Assembling the ATV

Having prepared the necessary tools, donor vehicles and freeing up time, you can start creating your own ATV:

Thanks to its reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, the Ural motorcycle is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.

Video clip: "Wasp" 4x4

The video below describes the design of a homemade ATV, its characteristics, properties and features.

Photo review

Photos of ATVs based on domestic motorcycles and cars:

As you can see, using the outdated and inexpensive achievements of the Soviet car industry, you can create amazing devices that will amuse your vanity and satisfy most transport tasks.

How to make an ATV with your own hands is a difficult and responsible task, but feasible for a master who has perfectly mastered welding and turning. The effort and time spent pays off not only with great savings, but also with the result obtained - an exclusive, author's quadric model, which no one else has.

The features of assembling a homemade vehicle are highly dependent on the chosen base - the engine and other elements that are used by a skilled craftsman.

The 6 best base ("donor") options for the aspirant on how to make an ATV.

1. Motorcycle "Ural".
2. Motorcycle "Izh".
3. Motor scooter "Ant".
4. Another motor scooter (scooter).
5. Niva car.
6. Oka car.

Most often, some structural elements are taken from a motorcycle, others from a car.

In addition to parts (components) for a quadric, its creator will need:

• assembly "workshop" - a fairly spacious garage equipped with good heating and lighting is useful in this capacity;
• a set of equipment and tools;
• blueprints.

You may also be interested in the article of our specialist, which tells how to do it.

Preparation for work, tools and equipment

First of all, you need to carefully weigh when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycle walks in nature, transportation of goods, etc. It is on this basis that the choice of a "donor" vehicle must be made, having determined how powerful the engine is needed, what kind of suspension is suitable, what kind of trunk, etc.

Drawings can be taken from the Internet ready-made, compiled from scratch on your own, or you can combine both options and ready to remake at your own discretion.

List of required tools:

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• drill;
• a set of keys;
• various small tools - vernier calipers, hammer, knife, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.

To make the frame yourself, you will also need pipe bending equipment. In the absence, you can rent it or give the necessary work "for outsourcing" to another craftsman. Only if you have extraordinary skill can you bend the pipes by hand, heating the bend with a gas cutter or burner.

Quadric components:

• engine;
• frame;
• rear and front suspension;
• steering;
• brake system;
• cooling system;
• muffler;
• electrical equipment - battery, headlights;
• body, body kit.

The muffler can be made by yourself. Everything else is to be purchased on the shadow market for used parts.

Parts selection

ATV frame

Depending on the "donor" and the design of the quadric, the frame either has to be made by yourself, or you can reconstruct a ready-made, used one.

The most important thing is that the engine is securely bolted to the bottom along the frame, which can be positioned both front and rear. Also firmly, in order to avoid backlash, should be attached to the frame transmission and drive.

As a material, ordinary water and gas pipes are suitable, with a wall thickness of no more than 3 mm:

• for side members - 25 mm;
• for crossbars and struts - 20 mm.

The pipes are connected using spot welding, then one-piece welding is carried out. The lugs for attaching shock absorbers and levers are welded to the frame immediately. Brackets - during the installation of units and assemblies.

Reconstruction of the existing frame

To reconstruct the finished frame, you should remove everything, leaving the frame, dismantle the rear and build up the front. Then weld the elements for fastening a complete set of components and assemblies of the ATV. When reconstructing the motorcycle frame, the seat posts should be moved 40 - 45 cm.

Front and rear racks are cut from sheet metal and welded, welded to the frame. In conclusion, the finished frame is painted, no need to varnish.

Engine

The engine will fit from a car, motorcycle or scooter. Some "Lefties" even construct an ATV from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands, since newer models are equipped with four-stroke engines, the power of which in heavy devices reaches 15 "horses" - against 11 hp. "Ant".

The engine compares favorably with the scooter with its low fuel consumption, besides, the quadric based on the scooter is the lightest, which makes it easy to pull it out when it gets stuck in mud and sand. But a quadric for the transportation of goods and / or off-road driving needs a more powerful engine.

The power of the Izh-1, Izh-2 and Izh Jupiter engines - 24 hp, the old Ural - 32 or 36 hp, the two-cylinder engine of the old Oka - 35 hp. , a three-cylinder machine of a later release - 53.

The ATV needs a cooled engine to ride in hot weather. Cooling was not installed on old motorcycles, so you have to pick it up (it will do, for example, from a VAZ 2108) and install it.

The suspension can be used both rear and front. The easiest way is to take the front from the motorcycle.

2 rear suspension options:

1. The rear axle of the car, shortened to fit the dimensions of the quad. The advantage is the presence of a differential. The disadvantage is that the design will be heavier.
2. Cardan-reduction gear design - with a gearbox mounted on the rear axle.

Please note: for an ATV, an independent suspension with high ground clearance is required.

The suspension arms are bolted to the frame through rubber-metal hinges - silent blocks.

The front suspension strut must be tilted or the ATV may tip over.

Shock absorbers are suitable from Izh, but if the budget allows you to purchase gas-oil with pumping, the driver will be able to adjust the suspension according to road conditions.

Steering and chassis

The steering system of an ATV can be both on the basis of an automobile - with a steering wheel, and with a motorcycle steering wheel. Some craftsmen combine both types: motorcycle handlebars, lever and shaft at the top, car steering rods at the bottom. It is advisable to immediately take the fuel tank along with the steering wheel of the motorcycle.

A homemade steering shaft is made from a 20 mm pipe with walls up to 3 mm. A travel stop must be placed below.

When making a quadric based on a car, it is better to replace the gear pair with a chain drive. This will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of maintenance.

The input shafts from the gearbox must be able to be directed directly to the rear and front axles.

Wheels are most often taken from small-sized VAZs ("Oki" or "Niva") and put on shoes with rubber appropriate to the operating conditions (weather, terrain, etc.). The brake system is selected depending on the wheels. The steering knuckles are also from Niva or Oka.

Four-wheel drive

If you prefer a four-wheel drive vehicle, you need vehicle steering, differentials and manual transmission drive.

The existing frame will not work in this case; a new one should be welded for the engine size.

The suspensions, like the steering system, must be taken from the car. At the front, it is necessary to provide a place for installing the gearbox.

Installing an all-wheel drive model requires not only special skills of the craftsman, but also additional labor costs. An alternative option - to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - costs money.

Frame

Manufacturing the case is far from the easiest stage in history, under the title: "how to assemble an ATV with your own hands." Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass, it is easier to make a body kit from the second.

First, you need to draw, cut and build a "blank" of the case from pieces of durable foam, glued or fastened with polyurethane foam. Then - apply several layers of fiberglass to it, coating each with epoxy and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the case to the frame. In conclusion, dry the case thoroughly, then prime, grind and paint.

Unfortunately, not every person has the opportunity to purchase an ATV in the store. All more or less interesting models are now quite expensive, and buying a supported ATV is always a certain risk. In this regard, many motorcycle enthusiasts advise to make a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with their own hands, using an engine and spare parts from some old Soviet motorcycle. Earlier, we have already told you about how to make an ATV from a Ural motorcycle. In today's article, we will talk about other donors that you can use if you decide to assemble an ATV with your own hands.

Why is it worth assembling an ATV with your own hands?

Assembling a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with your own hands definitely helps to solve several problems. The first reason people decide to make a homemade ATV is of course a small budget. If you analyze the market prices for ATVs, then you can understand that such vehicles can be considered almost a luxury. Prices for the simplest and low-power models start at 150 thousand rubles, for example, the Yamaha Blaster YFS200. In principle, such a single "quadric" will be enough, but the power will always be in short supply.

But models of ATVs with engines with a volume of 500-800 cm 3 will cost much more, about 500 thousand rubles. You can also consider Chinese models, such as the Russian manufacturer Stels, but they will have to be well monitored. New all-terrain vehicles of this brand will cost about 300-400 thousand rubles, but the engines are already much more interesting - 45-70 hp.

Nuances in the operation of a homemade "quadric"

If you definitely decided to make an ATV with your own hands, then you should know about the intricacies of its operation. Basically, if you need an all-terrain vehicle to ride in impassable places, where there have never been patrol cars, then there is probably nothing to worry about. You will have to face problems if you plan to drive even in small settlements, which are sometimes visited by patrol cars. Having caught you without documents for this vehicle, then with a probability of 99% they will take it away from you. The whole difficulty lies in registering a homemade ATV, because the traffic police will most likely refuse you. In an amicable way, you can register a homemade product, but it is extremely difficult to do this. Therefore, assembling a homemade ATV only makes sense if you operate it in some wilderness.

Decide on the choice

So how to make a do-it-yourself ATV? When creating a homemade ATV, we need to decide on a donor, that is, a motorcycle that will form the basis of our project. Old Soviet motorcycles are perfect for a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle. From them we can borrow an engine with a gearbox, a frame, a steering wheel and, if desired, such details as a tank, a seat and other elements. Since we already had an article about a homemade ATV from the Ural motorcycle, in this review we will talk about how to make an ATV based on the IZH motorcycle.

For our purpose, almost all motorcycle models from the Izhevsk plant are suitable for us. The only thing that is important to understand is the engine power. Still, the end result will be a fairly heavy structure, so the best solution would be to use the latest models - IZH Jupiter 5 or IZH Planet 5. It makes no sense to consider more interesting models, like IZH Planet Sport, because it is quite difficult to find them, and if possible , it is better to restore them, because the motorcycle is quite rare and interesting. Let's move on to the main thing, how to make an ATV and what is needed for this.

Rear suspension

Once you have decided on a donor, in our case it is IZH Jupiter 5, you need to completely disassemble the motorcycle. After disassembling, we need a frame on which everything was held, including the engine. It is quite logical that in order to increase the reliability of the structure, the frame must be strengthened in several places.

Now it is necessary to weld the rear axle so that instead of a wheel, a bearing block with a chain drive can stand on the axle. An example, you can see in the photo. As a suspension, you can use ordinary shock absorbers from a motorcycle, and parts from an old Zhiguli car are suitable for the rear axle. You can go a more complicated way and install a monoshock, but then again you will have to look for spare parts from the car, for example, from the same Zhiguli or Oka.

Front suspension

Once the rear suspension is complete and in place, you can move on to the front of the bike, which is a little more complicated. In the case when we were dealing with the rear suspension, we had the opportunity to choose how much the shock absorber will be installed. When creating the front suspension, we only have one option - to use two shock absorbers.

Oka's car is perfect for the role of a donor for the front of the ATV. From it we need shock absorbers, swivel assemblies and a steering linkage. However, be prepared for the fact that the parts will still have to be changed - to weld on, saw off, saw off something. Also a good and simpler option would be to install a monoblock with fixed wheel surfaces. Then you don't have to look for a steering linkage, couplings, hinges and other spare parts.

A monoblock is a really simple option, because it literally takes an hour to install. The only drawback of this design of the front suspension is the heavier mechanism. The steering wheel will be slightly more difficult to turn than with a suspension with shock absorbers.

Engine

Many wondering how to make an ATV with their own hands, understand that it is worth starting with the engine. Indeed, the main detail in the future ATV is the engine. The final result, and the whole structure in general, depends on how powerful it will be. Of course, you can leave the engine from the donor's motorcycle, but in the end, the "quad" will not be as powerful. If you are a little more serious about creating an all-terrain vehicle, then installing a more powerful engine would be an excellent solution. We hope we have answered your question on how to make an ATV yourself.

Was going purely for entertainment purposes, so the author focused on industrial ATVs and the collection of his car. However, there are a number of design differences that have a positive effect on the cross-country ability of the all-terrain vehicle and significantly distinguish it against the background of standard ATVs.

The machine has excellent cross-country ability and reliability, largely due to its low weight.

During the construction of this model of a homemade ATV, the following parts and materials were used:
1) water pipe with a diameter of 32 mm
2) pipe 27 mm
3) Internal combustion engine from the car Oka 11113
4) Gearbox from the same oki
5) front and rear gearboxes from the classic vase
6) hubs and grenades from vaz 2109
7) fiberglass

Let's take a closer look at the stages of building this all-terrain vehicle:

The suspension of an all-terrain vehicle of a home-made design is organized using A-shaped levers, which are made from a pipe with a diameter of 27 mm.

The engine and gearbox from the car was installed, the differential was welded.

The gear ratio ratio of the front and rear gearboxes is 43 to 11, they were redesigned for internal grenades from the fret of the nine.

Hubs and disc brakes from a VAZ 2109 were installed, and the wheels were supplied with a 15 radius through spacers.

Initially, it was planned to make the grip on the handlebars similar to those of motorcycles, but then it was nevertheless decided to make it under the left foot, despite the unusual solution for an ATV, it turned out to be quite convenient according to the author. That is, there are no problems with shifting gears on the go. Moreover, the all-terrain vehicle is able to get under way in any gear, even with a passenger on board, the engine power is quite enough. Therefore, the gears are not changed so often, when driving on the road, only the third and fourth gears are used, and off the road, respectively, the first and second as low gears.

A transfer case of the author's own design was organized, thanks to which it became possible to disconnect the front axle. Below is a photo of the entire front axle disengagement mechanism, where you can see the main elements of the parts:

Work was carried out on the rear suspension of the all-terrain vehicle:

The frame of the machine for pasting with fiberglass is being prepared:

The process of fixing fiberglass on the machine:

Then the author proceeded to paint work on the all-terrain vehicle:

The weak point of the design, as you can see from the photographs, is the anthers on the grenades. The author has not yet decided how exactly to protect them from possible breaks.

The next photo clearly shows the gear selection mechanism, as you can see in the photo, the lever was a little distant from the engine, since before that it was installed closer and the author often burned himself against the muffler, especially there was a high probability of such an injury when engaging in reverse. For now, the issue has been completely fixed by moving the lever:

There is no photo on the radiator yet, but what exactly are you interested in?

The radiator of the all-terrain vehicle is hidden under the plastic right in front of the instrument panel, despite the fact that the hole, which there is very small, is quite enough for cooling the car. However, problems can arise when driving in heavy mud, since the hole is easily clogged, and cooling from the incoming air does not work. But the fan copes with such a load, although the all-terrain vehicle is not operated on heavy mud. In addition, the fan turns on only under really heavy loads, which is extremely rare.

The reason for this is that the device itself turned out to be quite light and the engine from the oka copes well with the loads.

Below is a photo of the radiator placement:

The all-terrain vehicle has an approximate mass of about 450 kilograms.
Video of tests of the all-terrain vehicle when driving on snow:

If you watched the video, you probably noticed that the rear wheel is slipping by as many as several meters, which should say about the operation of the rear differential. In this, this all-terrain vehicle is very different from industrial ones, since they have no rear differential and the rear axle always row, which does not interfere with ATV handling, since the width of the vehicle is small.

The author also wanted to initially weld the rear differential, but thought that he would always have time to do this, and decided to try to ride with a differential for now. But since the cross-country vehicle was satisfied and there were no problems with the rear axle, the author did not have any desire to disassemble the structure and weld the rear differential.

That is why the all-terrain vehicle remained with a rear differential.

The only author is planning to install more serious wheels on the all-terrain vehicle. Or remove the 15 disc stands by installing discs with a bolt pattern of 4 to 100 from Logan or Opel, which perfectly fit VAZ hubs.