Reliably protects the car body from harmful external factors - ultraviolet radiation (sunburn), dirty stains, marks bird droppings, scratches, chemical reagents that are sprinkled on roads in winter. There are two main types of car body polishes - professional and for general use. The latter, in turn, are divided into wax-based and synthetic polymer-based products. Professional ones (the term “nano” is often used to refer to them) differ in their duration of action. They can be in the form of "" and ceramic.

Polishes for widespread use can be applied independently, and the price of this product rarely exceeds 2 thousand rubles. However, their disadvantage is their short lifespan, as well as low mechanical resistance and protection. As for professional products, depending on the brand, their cost can reach up to 50 thousand rubles, and they are applied only in service centers. Their advantages are long term action (often the warranty is up to 5 years), as well as reliable protection of the body from all kinds of external influences.

General information

Despite the types, the functions of any polish (be it professional or for general use) are almost the same. They consist of protecting the car body from the following harmful factors:

• ultraviolet(bright sunlight, due to which the body loses its original color over the years, that is, it fades);
• chemical reagents on the roads (relevant for winter, when road services sprinkle the road surface with a special composition, which not only corrodes the ice on the roads, but also negatively affects the surface of the car body, another harmful factor in the warm season -);
• dirt and stains(the composition prevents them from being deeply absorbed into the body, so it is much easier to wash stains later without damaging the paintwork);
• mechanical damage(for example, impacts from branches when driving in a forest, possible scratches with minor contact with the body of foreign objects, and so on).

As mentioned above, professional polishes cope much more effectively with the tasks assigned to them and last longer, but such preparations are much more expensive. In addition, they can only be applied at service centers. This is due to the fact that such a procedure requires special equipment, proper surface preparation, as well as personnel familiar with the relevant technology.

As for car body polishes that you can apply yourself, they are divided into three types - with natural wax, based on synthetic polishes, and a mixture of natural and synthetic components. Without going into details, it is worth noting that the first type is not so popular because it has lower performance characteristics. The second type is the best in this class, since it reliably protects the body and lasts longer than others (up to 12 months). Concerning mixed compositions, then they have average characteristics.

Synthetic car body polishes can also be identified by their smell. The more distinct the smell of petroleum products comes from a product, the greater the likelihood that it is made from synthetic materials. An exception may be Carnauba polishes, which do not have specific odors, but are created on a synthetic basis.

Polishes for are also based on nano-designs. These include Turtle Wax and Runway. The smaller the particles of the substance, the better they interact with paintwork and last longer. However, often the prefix “nano” is nothing more than a marketing ploy by various manufacturers.

Choosing a good polish

When choosing one or another product, it is impossible to accurately answer the question of what are the best polishes for a car body. This is an incorrect way to pose the question. The fact is that polish is chosen largely for specific purposes. For example, some protect better from stains and dirt, others from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, and others are universal.

Protective polishes for the body are divided by physical state. There are three such types on sale - in solid (paste), liquid and cream form. Their actions are almost the same. However, it is worth noting that solid products last longer (approximately 20...30 treatments), and a tube of liquid body polish will only last for 5...6 treatments. True, the liquid product is cheaper.

Another subtype of manual body polishes is protective equipment for new paintwork. An example of such a composition is “Doctor Wax”. It is applied to the surface of the body upon purchase new car(or after painting the body). There are also polishes with water-repellent effect. Example - Soft99. There are also so-called abrasive polishes, the purpose of which is to get rid of scratches. However, this is a specific product that can be used infrequently and on old bodies.

Restorative polish must be used at least twice a year (depending on the duration of the selected product), and preventive polish - once every six months.

When choosing a polish, you must first consider car age. In addition, you need to decide what you want to achieve - body protection, scratch removal or rich color. As a rule, the purpose of the product is indicated on its packaging or in the instructions for use. Before purchasing body polish, be sure to read this information.

Rating of the best body polishes

We present to your attention a rating of manual body polishes that are popular among domestic car owners. The list was compiled in accordance with the availability of goods in stores (including online stores), user reviews on the Internet, as well as tests that can also be found on the World Wide Web. We hope that the information provided will help you make your choice. if you have own experience use of such means or your own considerations, We invite you to describe them below in the discussion of the article. By doing this you will help other car owners.

The American 3M product is produced on a synthetic base (synthetic wax) and is one of the most popular and in demand for manual body polishing. The main advantage of the polish is that it forms a thick protective layer that reliably protects the paintwork, including from small scratches, stones flying from under the wheels, abrasive dust, and so on. It also perfectly protects the surface from ultraviolet radiation, moisture and chemicals.

It has a pleasant smell, and is rubbed into the surface of the paintwork quite gently and quickly. Polishing time is 10...15 minutes. At the final polishing stage, it is recommended to treat the surface with microfiber. Important! There is a warning on the packaging that the substance in dry form is explosive, so you must, firstly, carefully unscrew the cap, and secondly, keep it away from open flame sources!

Sold in a 473 ml can. Article - 39030. The price as of spring 2018 is about 900 rubles.

This is a Teflon polish that provides reliable protection body from the harmful factors listed above - mechanical damage, moisture, ultraviolet radiation, dirt, chemical compounds and so on. The advantage of this drug is its long-term protection - the manufacturer guarantees a validity period of 12 months.

Turtle Wax Teflon polish is very easy to apply to the car body. A 300 ml can is enough for 2...3 regular body treatments passenger car. Application is carried out in three stages. The first is applying to the surface and rubbing until a matte color appears. and in the second and third stages, after the composition has dried, polishing is done using a cotton rag or microfiber.

Packaged in 300 ml bottles. Article - FG6509. The price is around 300 rubles.

The product is based on carnauba wax (carnauba wax is a wax made from the leaves of palm trees growing in South America; it has the property of “healing” scratches on car paintwork) and Teflon. The undoubted advantage of the liquid preparation is its long shelf life and reliability. The polish can be used on any car bodies. Does not contain abrasive compounds. Reliably protects the car body from water drips formed after rain or washing, sunburn, chemical reagents, and mechanical damage.

A special feature of Carnauba polish is the fact that the car body must not only be thoroughly washed and dried, but also not allowed to be applied to the warm surface of the body. Therefore, you need to work in a closed and cool room (garage, car wash, box, etc.).

Packaged in 250 ml bottles, article number - RW2502. The price of one copy is 200 rubles.

Positioned as a Japanese car body polish with high water-repellent properties due to wax. The jar has a fairly high density, so before applying the product to the surface, it is recommended to moisten the working sponge with water and only then apply polish to it. At the first stage, a white film forms on the surface of the body, which subsequently needs to be rubbed with microfiber.

According to the test results, wax polish Soft99 showed satisfactory results. The surface of the paintwork has acquired a more saturated color, and small scratches ceased to be visible. As for water droplets, on the treated surface they collect in the correct shape and easily roll off the body. Therefore, Soft99 Water Block polish can be fully recommended for widespread use as a mask for scratches and protection against water.

A special feature is its more successful use on dark paintwork. The service life of the coating is up to 90 days. The jar is enough for approximately 20...30 coatings (depending on the intensity of use and the size of the car body). Sold in 200 ml packaging. Article - 429. Package price - 1600 rubles.

Another polish from Japanese manufacturer Soft99. Positioned as a semi-professional product, protection for dark cars. The validity period of the polish is from 6 to 12 months. One jar is enough to apply to the body up to 25 times. Very effectively protects the body not only from moisture and mud stains, but also from tar and insects.

It is necessary to apply the fluorocarbon polymer coating Soft99 Fusso Coat 12 Month only to a cold surface of the body. After application, you need to wait for the first layer to dry (about 5 minutes in summer and up to 15 minutes in winter), and only then polish with microfiber (do not use cheap microfiber). After application, it is recommended to perform a two-phase wash approximately once a week. If the appearance of the body deteriorates, it is enough to wash it with shampoo to remove static pollution, after which the polish will be restored. Tests have shown that the polish perfectly masks minor scratches, causes color saturation, and increases the water-repellent (hydrophobic) effect.

Packaging volume - 200 ml. Its article number is 300. Price is 1500 rubles.

Positioned as a synthetic polish with wax from the Brazilian carnauba palm. It has a very soft consistency and a sponge of an original, comfortable shape. Before using it, the surface must be moistened with a sponge. Application occurs according to a standard algorithm. Using the mentioned sponge, the product is applied to the surface in areas of the body, after which it is polished using microfiber.

However, the effect of using this polish is weak. The effectiveness of the application was noticed only in an increase in the saturation of the body color. It was not possible to disguise small scratches on the body; they remained visible. Therefore, Nanox Carnauba is more suitable for new cars that do not yet have scratches on the body. As for the hydrophobic effect, it is quite good.

Jar volume - 227 ml. Article - NX8305. Price - 700 rubles.

Positioned as a professional protective nano-polish for car bodies. Distinctive feature This remedy is that it is created using nanotechnology and acts at the molecular level. Although, by and large, this word is nothing more than an advertising ploy. The base, like many others, is natural carnauba wax. However, the polish contains really high-quality components from natural palm wax and polishing agents. In addition, the hard paste contains no abrasives.

Runway Pro Nano Wax polish can be used on dark and light surfaces. Despite manufacturers' claims, real-life tests showed that there were no significant changes in color depth and saturation. Instead, there was some shine and specularity. It also does not mask scratches. As for the water- and dirt-repellent effect, it is really at its best. The stated validity period of the polish is up to 8 months, but according to the test results it turned out that it is no more than 6.

You can buy it in 300 ml iron jars. Article - RW6134. Price - 700 rubles.

This polish is sold in an emulsion state with undissolved particles. The liquid emulsion is applied to the car body using a rag and rubbed. Since a lot of liquid is absorbed into the rag, there is an overspending of the product, although not very large. As for the masking properties, they are at an average level. The same can be said about the water-repellent effect. That is, in fact, as the manufacturer writes - “protects against the deposition of dust and moisture, facilitates easy removal of dirt.”

Shell Wax Polish can be used on colored and varnished surfaces, with any type of paint and surface treatment. As for the duration of the drug, it lasts for 2...3 months, after which it is necessary to repeat the treatment. Considering low price polish, it can be recommended to owners of budget cars.

The volume of the bottle in which the product is sold is 0.5 liters. Article - AC32J. Its price is 150 rubles.

A very original car polish with a touch-up effect. Its peculiarity is its cleansing and color-masking effect. Thanks to this effect, the polish practically merges with the original paintwork, harmoniously complementing it. The product also enhances color rendition and hides possible defects on the car body. And the pigment composition evens out the reflective plane.

Colored car body polish is available in eight basic colors; the set includes a pencil, thanks to which you can manually sketch even the most complex and deep scratches. The treated surface will not only look good, but will also be reliably protected from corrosion for a long time. The effectiveness of filling damage directly depends on the depth and duration of its origin. However, treatment with polish in several cycles increases the effect.

Packaged in 0.5 liter bottles. Article - FG4997. Price - 600 rubles.

The American Doctor Wax (Carnauba Cleaner Wax), a paste-like polish with wax, is positioned by the manufacturer as a cleaning polish for new coatings. It features original packaging, which in addition to the sponge also includes a polishing cloth. The consistency is thinner than other similar products. It is believed that the product is better suited for metallic paint. The product is applied in the same way, in two layers. Polishing should be done after the first layer has dried, after 5...10 minutes.

After polishing it does not leave streaks, but after rain a light dusty coating appears which can be removed with a napkin. When performing real tests, the product showed that small scratches on the body of a car that is no longer new remain noticeable. As for the water repellent, it also leaves much to be desired. However, polish can be used quite successfully for processing new cars.

The volume of the jar is 227 ml. Article - DW8203. Price - 600 rubles. For old bodies in this series there is a separate product with the corresponding number DW8207. Its price and volume are similar.

How to apply polish

Comparative test of polishes

Exact instructions for applying polish to the car body are given or on the case, its packaging or in the accompanying instructions. Therefore, before use, be sure to read the relevant information and adhere to these recommendations. However, in most cases, the algorithm for using polishes is the same and consists of applying them to a washed, dry surface of the body and further polishing using rags, sponges or special polishing pads. There are several typical recommendations:

• Polish damaged areas the body must be brought to the condition of similar areas with factory coating;
• It is necessary to apply the polish in parts (in sections), otherwise it will dry quickly (especially at temperatures from +20°C and above, the lower permissible is +15°C);
• It is necessary to work indoors or under a canopy, avoiding exposure to direct sunlight;
• when polishing, you do not need to press too hard on the rag; instead, you need to maintain a temporary regime;
• do not use power tools when polishing unless this is specifically stated in the instructions;
• After application, do not allow it to dry dusty;
• Carry out work in special closed clothing.

These simple rules will help you correctly perform the work of applying polish to the body of your car.

Instead of an afterword

Any polish will protect the body of your car from harmful external factors, as well as maintain its beautiful appearance. This applies not only to new, but also to middle-aged and even old cars. But in the first case, it is possible to preserve the original appearance for as long as possible, and in the second, to mask possible minor defects or problems with painting. In any case, polish will not be superfluous for any car.

As for the choice of this or that product, firstly, buy solid or creamy polishes, and secondly, do not buy frankly cheap products or polishes on a natural basis, but only on a synthetic one. Solid polishes will last for a significantly larger number of car washes. And even though such products are more expensive, the savings will be due to the duration of use.

If you don’t have a polishing machine: manually bring the car to a shine

Surely, every driver has encountered a situation where the appearance of a car has lost its luster and chic; over the years of faithful service, it has turned into a banal workhorse, but it was once an excellent model, worthy of attention and respect. Just a decade ago, one could only dream of high-quality polishing with one’s own hands without special equipment. Today, a great variety of polishing products have appeared that allow you to do this yourself without spending a lot of time and saving the family budget on buying a machine. How to polish a car with your own hands. What is car polishing without a machine, what nuances and features does this work include?

What is polishing and why is it needed?

One of the main auto tuning procedures – polishing – can restore your car to its former shine, refresh the paint and, at the same time, create powerful protection against the effects of an aggressive external environment. Today, car mechanics practice two types of car polishing: without a machine, by hand, and with its use, each method is interesting and significant in its own way.

Permissive attitude towards external damage will not only have a very negative impact on your aesthetic feelings, but will also serve as a fertile environment for corrosion of the car body.

Moreover, work done by hand is considered to be of even higher quality and more precious, because in this case a smaller layer is removed and the damage to the body surface is not as significant as when working with a polishing device.

The basic rules for do-it-yourself polishing are as follows:

• Choose your polishing products wisely. Today, the market is replete with a range of materials, but not all are equally effective. Not only are they divided into categories, but also each brand offers the buyer a product of one quality or another, as well as additional functions, which should be taken into account when purchasing.
• Polishing work must be carried out in a warm, well-ventilated and lighted area. In heat, so that the materials do not lose their consistency, in light, so as not to miss a tiny area of ​​the car body coating, and thus not to negate all the work. Well, we all need fresh air when working with toxic materials.
• This is a must before you start polishing your car. It is necessary to thoroughly wash the body so that the smallest particles of dirt and dust do not deform the paint surface during the procedure.
• Never carry out polishing and other work (for example, priming, puttying) at the same time in the same garage, as the smallest particles of other materials can settle on the polishing and lead to big troubles.

When is polishing required?

Before polishing a car, it is worth understanding the question: in what cases does this become necessary, because the procedure falls into the category of aggressive mechanical damage. If carried out frequently, polishing can do more harm than good; in particular, removing layers during polishing contributes to the deterioration of the metal surface of the car body, as a result of which the body begins to rust. So, it is always good to be guided by the rule in everything: know when to stop.

Experts say that you can polish a car no more than twenty times, after which it is recommended to completely renew the paintwork.

So, car body polishing is used in the following cases:

• presence of scratches, abrasions;
• the appearance of drips and fading of paints;
• formation of shagreen;
• color mismatch after poor quality painting.

What is needed for the job?

Having dealt with the theoretical issues, we proceed to the work itself. In order to polish a car with your own hands, we will need the following:

To work manually, you don’t need many tools, but now let’s learn more about the technology itself.

Hand polishing technology

Polishing a car with your own hands is carried out in several stages:

• thorough washing of the car body;
• degreasing (only after this simple procedure it will be possible to polish, otherwise all efforts will be in vain);
• applying polishing agent;
• drying.

The first and second stages, we think, are not worth dwelling on; you can do this yourself. Let's tell you in more detail about how to apply the product by hand correctly. Shake the bottle with the product first and apply in small portions so that you have time to grind the emulsion before it dries. After applying the product, rub it with a cloth (preferably a napkin).

Polishing a car by hand always requires physical effort: the more energy you put into your work, the better the end result will be. You need to polish your car until it shines like a mirror.

Remember: car polish dries within five minutes after application. So, you need to meet the allotted deadline, otherwise you will have to repeat the work again, but in a day.

Doing this with your own hands is not so easy, but if you master some simple technology, then it is quite possible to do it correctly, saving a lot on car service costs.

Restoring paintwork

If it is necessary to restore the paintwork, then restorative polishing of the car is carried out. The preparatory stage is no different from the above, except that here, after the process of degreasing the car body, you need to treat the surface with synthetic clay. In order to perform processing correctly, follow the instructions:

1. Knead the clay on a deformed area of ​​the car body.
2. Now you need to manually mat the surface.
3. We polish. But you need to polish only on the damp surface of the car, only then will the polishing bring the desired effect.

Final stage

The final stage of do-it-yourself car polishing is final polishing. It is produced with special pastes that do not contain abrasives. With the automated approach, the paste is rubbed in using a machine; if you do the final polishing yourself, the paste is rubbed in with pieces of foam rubber.

Now you know how to properly polish your car with your own hands. All that remains is to wish you good luck and fair winds on the road!

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Car polishing is technological process, which extends the service life of the paintwork and the body itself. No matter how high-quality the paintwork is, it deteriorates over time. The body is affected by natural, chemical and mechanical factors. Solar radiation, wind, precipitation, reagents on the roads, dirt and stones flying from under the wheels lead to loosening and erosion of the surface layer, the appearance of microchips and scratches. The car no longer shines, and the resulting damage gradually grows and leads to corrosion of body elements.

It is better to entrust body processing to car service specialists. However, if you are experiencing financial difficulties or simply like to tinker with your car, then try polishing your car yourself. The process is labor-intensive and time-consuming, but quite doable.

Step-by-step instructions for polishing a car

You need to start by purchasing the appropriate products for processing. The wide variety of them on the market causes confusion. Therefore, it is better for beginners to choose an understandable and convenient system polishing "Color Code" from the company ZM. The products presented in the line are three types of universal pastes, each of which is intended for a specific stage of processing. The color of the polish cap matches the color of the corresponding polishing wheel. This gradation guarantees the correct polishing technology and prevents accidental contamination of the wheels with products with other abrasive characteristics.

The processing is carried out indoors - technological polishing processes do not allow exposure to sunlight and dust. We provide good ventilation and multi-point lighting.

Necessary devices and tools

To polish your car yourself you will need:

• A polishing machine with a power of 1000 W, with operating modes of 1000-2000 revolutions (if you are not going to polish professionally, then rent or borrow the device);
• Clean microfiber cloths and mittens;
• Two types of car shampoo – for manual and contactless washing;
• Portable car wash;
• Suede leather;
• Cleaning clay and spray lubricant;
• Kit for touching up chips
• Abrasive polishing paste (3M 50417 - bottle with green cap), green polishing pad;
• Non-abrasive polishing paste (3M 80349 – bottle with yellow cap), yellow circle;
• Anti-hologram non-abrasive paste (3M 50383 – bottle with a blue cap), blue polishing wheel;
• 3M test spray (optional);
• Protective polish (3M 09377 – bottle with a red cap);

Car polishing stages

1. We clean the surface of the car from dust and dirt using a contactless car wash. After this, we apply shampoo with a pistol and wash the car manually with a microfiber mitten.
2. Complex contaminants – metal and brake dust, adhering insects, tree resin, bitumen stains– remove with clay. To do this, we cut the block into 5-6 parts so that it is convenient to hold in your hand. Knead the cut piece, flatten it and lengthwise in a circular motion move directly over the wet, soapy surface, pressing lightly. We periodically crush the cake, removing dirt deep into the piece. Throw away a heavily contaminated piece of clay and replace it with a new one. We process each panel separately.
3. Wash and dry the car. We inspect it - if there are still such contaminants, then we treat it locally with a lubricant spray and again with clay. Dry the body thoroughly with microfiber cloths or suede.
4. We remove chips - fill them with paint according to the level of the paintwork using a toothpick. We cover the smeared areas with varnish and leave the car for a day to dry.
5. We proceed directly to polishing the car. We do not process the entire body at once, but individual elements. Apply the paste pointwise to the body part to be processed and to the polishing pad (only for initial wetting). We perform two or three smearing movements without turning on the machine. Then we evenly distribute the product over the surface of the element at low speed. We reach the operating mode of 1500-2000 rpm and polish until a paste is produced with medium pressure. Wipe off excess composition immediately and leave for no longer than a minute. Dried, hardened polish is very difficult to remove. We complete each stage by treating with a test spray, which removes residual product and controls the quality of removal of small marks.
6. The first stage of polishing is treatment with abrasive polishing paste. We use polish with a green cap and a green circle. Particular attention should be paid to areas with defects - scratches, processed chips, severe dullness, clouding. At this stage, the paintwork is leveled and becomes smooth.
7. To remove stains left after abrasive processing and add shine to the surface, use yellow paste in combination with a yellow polishing wheel.
8. After the previous stages of processing, circular micro-risks remain on the surface of the paintwork. In bright light, they create a hologram effect on dark-colored bodies. Light-colored cars are not subject to such danger. Therefore, cars painted in dark colors are additionally treated with blue polish. During the anti-hologram polishing stage, we move the machine without pressure in overlapping figure eights.
9. AND final stage. We create protection for the surface of the paintwork using a polish with a red cap. This way the gloss will remain for a long time and will not disappear after the first wash of the car. Polish using a microfiber mitten or cloth in a circular motion. Remove excess protective paste with a waffle napkin.

After polishing, the surface of the body is smoothed and acquires gloss and water-repellent properties. A polished car increases the social status of the driver. Clean and shiny, it looks attractive and expensive, earning the respect of others.

The procedure for polishing a body at a service station is not cheap, so few can afford it. How to polish a car yourself and save on the cost of work? Here you will find answers to many questions regarding the grinding, polishing and paint protection from harmful environmental influences. Recommendations from experts will help you avoid mistakes and get the expected effect. Helping with professional advice is the purpose of the article.

What is polishing and why is it needed?

The term "polishing" means to make smooth. The presentable appearance of a car with a polished body cannot be compared with matte paint, which fades in the sun and has a depressing appearance over time.

Removing defects, scratches, uneven colors and cracks mechanically is called polishing. Improving the consumer properties and quality of the paintwork increases the cost of the car. The external condition of a personal vehicle is used to judge its owner, which can be of no small importance in business.

In addition to external gloss and shine, polishing has protective properties. Iron is less susceptible to corrosion; the smooth layer repels not only moisture, but also dirt. The car stays clean longer and is less susceptible to the damaging effects of chemicals, detergents and the external environment.

Types of polishing

First, it’s worth understanding the types of polishing, the technological process and properties of which differ. Achieve smooth surface possible through:

• Protective polishing– is the application of wax, polymer, chemical and other substances that can protect paintwork from ultraviolet radiation, aggressive environments, moisture, etc.
• Abrasive polishing– includes mechanical reduction of marks, defects, scratches and other damage by grinding the surface. The substances used make them invisible to the naked eye. Deformed areas are masked and cut off with abrasives.

After abrasive polishing of the car, protection is applied to extend the life of the treated body and maintain its updated appearance.

How do you know if your car needs polishing?

If speak about protective polishing, then any car needs it, the question only concerns the selection of products appropriate for the season. The need for mechanical action is determined by appearance body During operation, the paintwork is subjected to various types destruction that gives the surface a dull, unattractive appearance. Why does this happen, what destroys the top layer:

1. When exposed to sunlight, the coating composition fades. This happens unevenly, so the paint looks not only dull but also different shades color saturation.
2. Destructive winter reagents, which are sprinkled on the streets, detergents, acid rain, asphalt resinous substances, poplar buds, bird droppings and much more.
3. The surface may have mechanical damage from road sand flying at great speed from under your own and other people’s wheels, from scratches that remain after cleaning with hard brushes or materials, from branches and other objects that leave friction marks, etc.

The damaged layer, which once reflected light like a mirror, loses this ability. To restore the former shine and depth of color of the paintwork, you need to remove the ball of varnish and polish, restore and maintain the effect for a year or two.

Basic rules for DIY polishing

The principle of polishing with your own hands or with a machine is the same. When working with a power tool, there are hard-to-reach places that can only be polished by hand. Processing with your hands alone will take more time and effort, but Personal car worth it.

Polishes and abrasive pastes the same ones are used. It makes no difference how they will be applied: by hand or by machine. Instead of sponges and abrasive wheels intended for fastening to the substrate, you can use suitable sanding materials. The main thing is to maintain the appropriate grain size. It is recommended to apply the protective polish ball by hand.

Protective polishing

Some tips for applying a protective layer:

• Regarding the need to apply a protective layer, the answer is unequivocal - necessarily. The seasonality of funds should be taken into account. For example, waxy substances in winter period will not add, but will reduce the shine of the car coating. In the summer season, they will give the body a chic shine and protection.
• It is better to apply and rub the substance over the paintwork manually, but you can also use a machine. The main thing is to make sure that there is no dust in the room (although this is not realistic), it will fly off the clothes. Using an electric machine, you can instantly draw beautiful patterns on the surface with a grain of sand. It’s safer to work with fiber and keep it clean.
• Use a towel to rest your hand on the surface so that there is no direct contact, otherwise there will be marks that will have to be polished again.

Do not drive the vehicle outside after treatment; allow the materials to absorb and dry. Maintain the time specified in the instructions for the polish. Two days after polishing, wash the car, degrease and apply a protection ball.

What will you need for polishing?

Depending on what type of polishing you do, you will need a different set of tools to achieve the result. Protective – assumes only cleaning the car from dirt and treating the body surface with a polishing agent. To do this, prepare:

1. detergent and solvent/anti-silicone;
2. tape for insulating plastic and rubber parts from the effects of “chemicals”;
3. polish/protectant;
4. microfiber.

For abrasive polishing you need:

• detergent;
• sprayer with water;
• masking tape;
• abrasive polishes or sandpaper;
• appropriate polishing pads;
• polish with soft pad;
• means for the final protective ball of polish;
• polishing machine and nozzle (with a smaller diameter than foam rubber);
• antisilicone;
• antitar;
• microfiber.

Polishes and abrasive elements are selected individually depending on the condition of the car and the size of the wallet. To avoid mistakes and select the required gradation of material and means, conduct a test on something. Decide. Then start sanding.

New cars do not need sanding, just apply a polish without an abrasive. Then, two days later, a protective composition. So fix and prolong the effect.

Instructions for manual polishing of the body

Sanding by hand gives a better chance that the surface will not be damaged, since you will have to cut a very thin layer. Stages for self made or using a typewriter are the same.

Preparatory stage

Tips for the preparatory stage:

1. Preparation begins with washing and cleaning the body surface. Not all stains can be washed off with car shampoo; abrasive clay, which does an excellent job of this task, can help remove some of the stains that have become embedded in the varnish.
2. Degreasing is done with solvents. Detergent won't do the job. Grease, wax, silicone residues, bitumen traces that have not been removed from the surface must be cleaned with anti-silicone, anti-tar, and cleaners, bringing the cleanliness to perfection. The process extends the life of abrasive materials.
3. After cleaning, inspect the body in good lighting, assess the depth and nature of the damage. Mark the places from which more varnish should be removed - the presence of enamel sagging and other defects. Determine what abrasives you will start working with.

Main stage

Start sanding from the roof, gradually decreasing. This is a recommendation - it is advisable, but it is not necessary to do so. You can choose an option that is more convenient for you. When the car is new, skip sanding. If abrasive grinding is needed, you will need:

• pastes ZM 093 74 or 093 75 (sandpaper gradation 1500/2000/3000);
• appropriate polishing pads.

After grinding the surface clean thoroughly and treat with polish without abrasive(ЗМ 093 76 ) with soft foam. Rub until a mirror shine. If there are risks in the form of holograms, remove them special means(anti-hologram). You work with very soft sponges and materials.

We present the most common pastes that are inexpensive and give good results. You can select appropriate products from other manufacturers that are cheaper or more expensive. Buy sets together, buy paste by weight or use dry grinding - there are many options.

Final stage

In order for the polish to last for a long period, and not until the first wash, it is necessary to apply a protective layer. Choose a product to suit your taste (wax, Teflon, silicone, etc.). The shine of the coating will become brighter, the color will be deeper, and the appearance will be better than when purchased. See the instructions for the protection period and update it periodically. Protection is applied after two days.

Polishing a car using a tool

If you have ever polished car optics, you have an idea of ​​the process. If you are taking on this for the first time, first get used to working with a machine and abrasives on “dead iron.” Get your hands full, feel the interaction of a bunch of pastes and polishing pads, grasp the maximum number of revolutions, heating, and the volume of abrasive substance.

No matter how many videos you read and watch, working with your own hands can give you much more knowledge and experience. Only after you feel confident in handling materials, start sanding your car. Please take note of our recommendations in order to quickly acquire polishing skills and not spoil the paintwork.

How to work with abrasive polishes?

Some tips for working with abrasive polishes:

1. The container with the mixture must be shaken periodically so that the mass becomes homogeneous.
2. It is better to apply it to foam rubber. The first time a little more than necessary so that it is soaked. Do not apply to the center of the circle or to the edges. Three to five drops is enough - the paste should work, and not “grease” and not scatter to the sides.
3. Move the polishing pad to 0, stretch the abrasive over the surface, and gradually add speed. Make sure that there is no overheating and that the paste does not dry out (you can moisten it with water, but do not fill it).
4. Add the mixture when the machine starts to run slowly. Water can be used, but be careful not to drip or splash in all directions (some polishing pads work better wet).

How many revolutions should I set?

Bring the machine to 0, then add speed to 1500 or 2200 per minute. Depending on the link: somewhere you should add, somewhere you should subtract. It's better not to rush when you're not sure. Let us tinker a little longer, just so as not to spoil the coating. The machine must be removed abruptly, without reducing the speed., then turn it off.

Processing area

The optimal area covered at a time does not exceed 5 minutes of grinding. This is approximately a 50x50 square. On a larger surface, the paste will dry out and you will have to moisten it and remove it, this will cause more hassle. Visually divide the surface into sectors, slowly sand one after another.

Features of defect removal

If the car has been repainted, streaks or ingrained resinous substances or other substances may have formed on the surface. deep defects and inclusions. Such areas have to be cleaned with abrasives with a gradation that differs from the main one, i.e., more rigid. Sometimes this may not improve, but worsen the appearance.

When cleaning a tiny inclusion, do not sand over a large area. It’s better to have a small point of “rejection” than a “bald spot” the size of a plate. Strive to ensure that the treated surface is uniform with uniform removal of the enamel ball.

How to restore paintwork?

The process of restoring paintwork occurs in several stages, for which you need to prepare. You will need:

• sandpaper with different gradations;
• automotive putty;
• locker (spatula);
• solvent (degreaser);
• enamel that matches the color of the body, taking into account aging and color fading.
• Protective polish (optional).

1. Wash and degrease the treatment area;
2. Level the surface.
3. Apply putty to the damaged area and let it dry completely. It may be necessary to use a hardener.
4. Sand it with sandpaper, removing excess putty residue;
5. Prime and let it dry, sand with fine sandpaper;
6. Apply enamel from a spray bottle;
7. Protective polishing can be done if desired - this will mask differences that are noticeable. Observe the drying time of the products.

Adviсe: Here are some professional tips on frequently asked questions that will be useful to those who are independently mastering the process of polishing a car.

• What is better to polish: by hand or with a machine? Both options are acceptable, the incentive to use the machine is time, but it is more difficult to operate it, you need to gain experience so as not to spoil the surface.
• The size of the substrate should be 10 mm smaller than the polishing pad.
• Do not use drills or grinders - 3000 rpm. will cause overheating of the varnish and spoil the surface, the shine will go away. For the same reasons, you should not work in the open sun.
• Defects and imperfections are more visible on dark surfaces. Therefore, manufacturers produce gentle polishes and less harsh polishing pads for them. Take this into account when choosing materials.
• How to apply polishes? There are no strict recommendations, but you should decide on one figure (circle, figure eight, spiral, etc.) and with the next movement half overlap the previous pattern, as shown in the figure: overlapping eights.
• Body cleanliness is of great importance. Everything needs to be washed thoroughly. You can cover the contaminated areas for several hours with a thick, wet cloth and let it dry. Then treat with PRESTON and anti-silicone, then wipe everything with fiber. Abrasive clay does an excellent job of cleaning.
• A typical body polish looks like this:

1. The first pass is paste 75 and an orange (golden) circle, then blue - it is softer.
2. Treatment with anti-silicone and wiping with fiber.
3. Second pass – 76 paste with black polishing pad.
4. Cleaned and the body is ready for polishing.

• When holograms appear - use a blue polishing pad, without pressure, using movements - overlapping eights.
• Protective polish with a red cap is applied to a small area (work by hand) and after a minute is rubbed with microfiber, in a circular motion, until shiny. Towels need to be changed frequently. After two days, protection is applied.
• Do not allow pastes to dry out. Wet them periodically. If you don’t have time, take smaller areas and apply less paste so that it works and does not “float” under the polishing pad. If it is very difficult, wet the sponge.
• Working with fur, you can not remove risks, but draw new ones. If you observe such an effect, change the polishing pad to orange - the risks will go away.
• It is not recommended to wash hard polishing pads - they lose their hardness. Clean them with a brush. Soft - washing will not harm.

Do I need to wait until the silicone dries? Anti-silicone must be wiped off with fiber - then only the surface is cleaned. Drying it out is useless.

Why polish your car? A layer of wax makes any car, even not too expensive, more presentable and attractive. The transparent film protects the iron horse from dirt and scratches, preventing the appearance of corrosion and increasing the service life of the vehicle. But polishing a car in a car repair shop is an expensive pleasure, so experienced drivers prefer to care for their car at home.

Preparation

The procedure is carried out in the garage. If it is not possible to hide the car indoors, then choose a day when there is no rain and strong wind, otherwise the dust will mix with the polish, leaving small scratches on the surface.

The car is parked in the shade. The body heats up due to the sun, and the paint and varnish materials overheat, do not adhere well and emit toxic substances. The car is not polished in late autumn and winter, when the temperature drops below +6 degrees.

Before the procedure, it is recommended to visit a car wash or clean it yourself. vehicle from dirt, pieces of resin and dust. Repair deep scratches. Minor damage can be left, but then use colored polish instead of transparent polish.

After washing, thoroughly wipe the car with a soft, clean cloth. The room where polishing will take place undergoes a general cleaning. They sweep the floors, wipe down the shelves and take out all the trash. When the car is dry and the garage is perfectly clean, proceed to the second stage.

Tools and materials

Which polish to choose for home use? Wax varieties mask chips and fill cracks, but attract dirt. A car coated with a plant-based or animal-based product will lose its shine after 1-3 washes.

Synthetic options are more durable and repel dirt and water droplets. Silicone-based polishes will last for 2-3 months. At home they use products protective type, which do not contain abrasive particles.

The body is also covered with liquid glass. The product will cost more than wax polish, but the effect of using such a composition is longer lasting. Liquid glass does not mask scratches, but only creates protective film and shines beautifully in the sun.

The polish comes with a soft sponge. Microfiber cloths or baby diapers will work. When choosing a rag for polishing a body, they are guided by three criteria:

• The material absorbs moisture well.
• There is no dirt, paint stains or pellets on the napkin or towel.
• The rag is not too hard and lint-free.

Coarse rags leave small scratches on the surface of the body, promote paint peeling and the appearance of rust.

Manual polishing lasts from 5 to 15 hours. A special machine will speed up the process. The equipment is equipped with soft discs made of cotton fabric or felt. They evenly distribute silicone and wax products over the surface of the body, facilitate labor and reduce polishing time by 3–4 times.

Owners of special equipment use thick formulations that last longer than liquid wax. Using the machine, they not only polish the car, but also remove the old layer of paint into which dirt has become embedded, eliminate minor and gross defects, and protect the iron horse from corrosion.

Standard procedure

If there is no special equipment, you will have to work with your hands. It is recommended to seal plastic and rubber parts, as well as windows, with tape. The polish is difficult to clean off without damaging the glass.

Important: Doors and windows in the garage are opened, and a respirator or gauze bandage is put on the face. Polishes emit chemical fumes, which in small doses do not harm the body. But you will have to work with the compounds for 5–10 hours, and if you neglect the safety rules, you can get poisoned.

The car is polished in two stages:

1. A wax or silicone product is applied to a clean surface. Cover an area measuring 50x50 cm, no more.
2. Wait 1-2 minutes until the polish dries, then rub it.

Start from the top of the car, gradually lowering. There should be no sharp transitions or untreated areas between the squares. Do not press too hard on the rag.

What happens if you cover your entire car with wax? The composition will dry out quickly and you will have to go to a car repair shop to have professionals remove the polish along with the paint, and then apply a new coat. The procedure is lengthy and expensive, so experimenting with the car is not recommended.

If polish gets on glass or a mirror, wipe the part immediately with a dry cloth, otherwise stains will remain that are difficult to get rid of. Polishing cloths are changed regularly, because paint particles stick to them, which leave noticeable scratches on the body.

Silicone and wax compounds are applied in small portions. A thick layer of the drug is difficult to distribute evenly throughout the car.

Machine update

Is dirt embedded in the paintwork and cannot be washed off? Are there deep scratches on the body or doors? The car has recently been painted, and it's time to polish the iron horse? Simple formulations are not enough. You will need preparations with abrasive particles that remove the top layer of paint, and polishing machine or a drill with special attachments.

In the store, ask for the “numbered” polish. Professionals use preparations No. 1, 2 and 3. It is advisable to buy attachments for a polishing machine or drill along with the preparations. Additionally, purchase waterproof sandpaper. Choose a fine-grained option, for example, No. 2000.

The plastic parts of the car are sealed with masking tape. Wear a respirator, a protective suit or old clothing, and rubber gloves. Open the windows in the garage, and then start polishing:

1. Degrease the surface of the car with special wipes. Do not touch the car with your hands, otherwise there will be greasy marks on which the product will not adhere well.
2. Moisten the sandpaper with water and sand the body, roof and doors. To avoid confusion, the treated areas are marked with strips of tape. The sandpaper moves from top to bottom. Do not press too hard to avoid damaging the paint. Moisten the skin periodically with water.
3. Apply polishing agent No. 1 with abrasive particles to a small area. Rub in the preparation polishing machine. Use fabric or leather discs. Hold the machine at a right angle to avoid scratching the car. While polishing, wet the surface with water.
4. The first, roughing, treatment is intended to mask scratches. After sanding, wash the car, then use polish No. 2. The product will consolidate the result.
5. The car is washed a second time, then polish No. 3 is applied, without abrasive particles, or liquid glass. The drug repels dirt and water and is responsible for the shine of the car.

In hard-to-reach places and near sharp corners, it is recommended to turn off the machine and apply polish manually. The effect will last 3-4 months, then the coating becomes dull and has to be renewed. It is recommended to apply natural wax products. They are softer than synthetic options and cheaper.

Polishing a car is not difficult, but it takes a long time. The result depends on the skill of the car enthusiast and the quality of the materials that were used in the work. Therefore, they recommend carefully preparing the iron horse for polishing, not skimping on preparations, and doing everything with love.

Video: how to quickly and easily polish a car