WARNING! DO NOT USE THE BURNOUT TECHNIQUE IN PLACES OF LARGE CLOCKS OF PEOPLE AND ON PUBLIC ROADS!
Burnout, an effective technique for warming up tires or a spectacular way to show off in front of others. In any case, the ability to do a burnout will help you get a better feel for a car with a manual transmission and ruin a couple of tires.
An expert in auto mechanics and physics, Jason Fanske from the YouTube channel “Engineering Explained” again held a cultural education for his viewers. In a new form, Jason explained in detail the basics of the burnout technique, citing his Honda S2000 as an example. mechanical transmission.
First, the video explains in what cases this technique is used and why it is needed.
-The coefficient of adhesion of cold tires to the road surface may be low and if necessary, it needs to be increased. If you warm up your tires, their temperature will increase, they will become softer and their grip will increase. Where is it used? Mainly in drag racing.
Further mentioned (1.26 min video) that the process is on automatic transmission simple enough. Press the brake, then press the gas. As soon as the wheels to which the drive is driven begin to rotate, weakening and increasing the pressure on the brake pedal, it is necessary to regulate the rotation of the wheels and prevent the vehicle from moving.
Inscription at the top: Make sure the traction control is turned off!
On vehicles with manual transmission, the narrator continues, everything is somewhat more complicated (1.47 min video). To do this you need:
- Depress the clutch
- Engage first gear
- Press the accelerator pedal a little, release the clutch and immediately press the brake pedal
As soon as you manage not to stall at this moment or to avoid slipping forward (in particular, due to the likelihood of uncontrolled acceleration of the car, burnout is so dangerous both for those around you and for the driver himself), and gas, just like with an automatic transmission .
In addition to the equipment itself, the video mentions that it is extremely important to know at what speed the wheels of your car begin to slip on the asphalt. In the S2000, the author says, slippage begins at approximately 5,000 rpm. If you overclock the engine, there is a danger of burning the clutch instead of the tires; if the engine speed is not enough, the car will not have enough torque to overcome the grip of the tires on the road surface.
And finally, at 2.48 minutes of the video it is shown. Note that the first few attempts were unsuccessful, but even so, the tire temperature increased by 4 degrees, from 15 to 19 degrees Celsius. Moreover inner side the tires heated up the most, up to 20 degrees, due to reverse camber.
At the end of the action, the tires were heated to 160 degrees Celsius!
Burnout is a trick in which the rear wheel breaks into the axle box due to braking with the front brake and transfer of body weight forward. Can be performed on the spot or in motion along various trajectories.
Motorbike
On a motorcycle it is enough to install side protection, because During training, you can turn the bike on its side.
A machine with easy clutch release will come in handy, because... You will have to constantly depress the clutch. With a standard machine, your fingers will get tired much faster.
The pressure in the rear wheel does not matter much. The standard one is quite suitable for training.
It is advisable to adjust the brake lever so that it is as close as possible to the steering wheel. This will reduce the stress on your fingers and allow you to feel the brakes better.
Asphalt
The asphalt on the training site should not be dusty. This can be easily determined by the front wheel. If it is all covered in dust, the asphalt is not suitable.
The grain size doesn’t matter much, but a coarse-grained one will run out of cylinders faster)
Burnout standing still
This is the easiest way! You can start with the front wheel resting against the wall.
Important points:
Do not release the gas while releasing the clutch, i.e. keep stable. Instinctively I want to turn off the gas, but this cannot be done.
Press as hard as possible on the fork when releasing the clutch, i.e. stand up on your hands.
Completely block the front wheel. Do not slow down, but press the front brake firmly and do not release. At first, it will not be easy to hold the brake depressed and twist the gas.
Burnout in a straight line
The main difference from burnout on the spot is that burnout must be turned on while moving. In fact, it's easier, because... You can additionally load the fork by braking the front wheel. Therefore, while driving, the rear wheel can be torn off at low speeds (4-6 thousand).
Important points:
Shift your body weight forward as much as possible, standing on your toes if necessary. At first it will seem like you'll fly over the steering wheel. If you don't stop suddenly, you won't fly over)
Always cool the front brake. After a few tries the front brakes become very hard.
Don't be afraid to ease up on the front brake to go faster. Even if you completely release the front brake, nothing bad will happen: the motorcycle will begin to quickly accelerate in a straight line and the axle box will gradually become engaged.
Burnout (We burn rubber correctly and beautifully).
Magazine "Motoreview 10.06"
However, the desire to kill rubber is no less inherent in the owners of ordinary road workers, not to mention street fighters. Sometimes even chopper lovers are guilty of this. For those who are not in the know: burn out- this is not at all a veiled way for the author of the article to “lower” an audience that is “out of business” in an obscene manner, but an English-language version of the Russian “annealing rubber.”
Burn out comes in four types, at least the main ones, but it is not possible to count all its varieties. After all, you can do a burn out by standing directly in front of the motorcycle or deliberately placing it on its side. There are dozens more options - such purely stuntrider tricks as, say, burn out with a simultaneous wheelie or with a half-naked girl on the gas tank...
But this is already a very advanced level, and we are interested in the “basis”, so I’ll start in order. The simplest and easiest burn out to perform is simply killing a tire while standing in one place. The technique is quite simple, at least from a theoretical point of view. The front brake is applied and gas is added at the same time. Yes, I almost forgot, it would be nice to also engage first gear and release the clutch... This is where the greatest difficulty lies.
Holding the front brake is not a big task; even one well-fed scooter rider I know can handle it (he never seems to let go...). But not everyone is able to be afraid to twist the throttle properly and at the same time “spit” with the clutch lever. Of course, there is a completely justified fear that lives latently inside, what if the motorcycle still runs? As a result, the clutch does not release completely, but remains in a semi-squeezed state. I’ll say right away: you don’t need to do this, this is a direct way to kill the clutch discs, and much faster than you can imagine!
In order to protect yourself as much as possible at the initial stage of learning from the destruction of discs, I would recommend resting your front wheel against some high curb - this way you can minimize the load on the clutch and better feel the moment the rear wheel begins to slip without unnecessary extremes. Literally after two or three anneals near the curb, you can begin to do the same on a straight surface - I assure you, there is nothing difficult about this. But such, if I may say so, burn out is the lot of “students”, First level. Much more effective (and more difficult) is slipping. rear tires with the simultaneous forward movement of the motorcycle.
To understand the technique of its execution, it is assumed that with the first type of launching burnt rubber In the eyes of the public, you are already 100% comfortable.
The main difficulty when annealing a long-suffering rear balloon while moving is to cause it to slip. As a rule, this is done in first gear, because it is in this gear that the engine has the greatest traction. But decent torque is usually not enough. You need to try to load the front wheel as much as possible, which will reduce the pressure on the rear (that is, reduce the tire’s grip on the surface), ultimately facilitating the moment it slips.
In some ways, this is reminiscent of the necessary manipulations to bring a motorcycle into wheelie, only with the difference that the speed of movement will be much lower (something about 20 km/h). With the clutch half-depressed, we spin the engine, move forward as much as possible - here you can not be shy and settle down almost on dashboard- and sharply release the clutch. If everything is done correctly, the rear wheel will definitely slip. Important point- with all the manipulations described above, the right hand lightly presses the front brake, but, I emphasize, just lightly, otherwise the motorcycle will not be able to move forward, and if you overdo it with the brake, you can completely lose the device. The left hand should always be on duty on the clutch lever for safety - but it should be on duty, and not keep the clutch in a half-squeezed state, thereby condemning it to an untimely death!
The less pressure applied to the front brake lever, the higher your speed will be and vice versa. Much here, of course, depends on the motorcycle - the more powerful it is, the easier it is to maintain high speed while simultaneously grinding the asphalt with the rear tire.
If your device has at least fifty Horse power, then as soon as you get comfortable with performing this technique in first gear, you can try it in second. After all, the speed on it will be much higher, and the external effect will be much stronger! But what more speed, the more difficult it is to keep the rear wheel in constant slip, and the cost of an error is much higher than in a relatively slow first gear.
It should be noted that annealing rubber in motion is possible in two ways. The first is when the motorcycle is standing still, its pilot causes the rear wheel to slip, and then begins to move. The second method is considered more spectacular and complex (and not without reason). When burn out is performed right on the move. It looks many times more impressive, but also requires much more sophisticated technology and skills. It's one thing to cause a wheel to slip while static, and quite another to do it while moving...
Another way to beautifully throw smoke into the eyes of the public is to stand next to the motorcycle and “sentence” the rear tire. The technique of execution is practically no different from the most primitive, “initial” burn out, although with one small “but”. Even a penguin can just stand next to the motorcycle, so we release the front brake a little, turn the steering wheel a little, and help the motorcycle a little more by tilting it. As a result of all the actions described above, we get a rotating movement of the device with smoking rear tires around you, so beautiful and so strongly attracting the public with its irresistible talent. In words, all this looks quite easy, but in practice it will require a lot of training to feel the slightest desire of your steel horse to get out of control and stop it in advance. The best “whip” here will also be the lever, the clutch, and you also have to move your legs quite actively in order to keep up with the motorcycle...
Before I come to the description of the most complex and, of course, the most beautiful, the fourth type of burn out, the so-called circular, I want to dwell on the type of rubber most suitable for this kind of exercise.
The appearance of the front tire doesn’t bother us at all, but the “more oaky” the rear tank is, the longer you can practice clogging environment burnt rubber waste products. Accordingly, the rear tire is preferable to the touring plan. The worse its grip on the road, the better for performing a burn out! Perhaps this is the only case when it is desirable to have the maximum possible low coefficient grip between rubber and asphalt. Therefore, long live such models as Bridgestone BT 020, Metzeler Marathone, Metzeler Roadtec Z 6, Metzeler ME Z 4, (of course, this list is far from complete, but the essence, I think, is clear)...
All of them have proven themselves to be excellent long-livers, just what we need. Especially in this series I would like to mention the Metzeler Roadtec Z 6, which managed to last about 14,000 km on my Suzuki TL 1000 R, thus setting a kind of longevity record on the rear wheel of a powerful sportbike with a not entirely sane owner. (Before this, I considered Bridgestone BT 020 super-resistant to asphalt abrasive, lasting an average of 10,000 km).
So, the motorcycle “writes” circles of extremely small radius, while simultaneously polishing the asphalt surface. Such a show can hardly leave anyone indifferent, immediately gathering a huge crowd of onlookers. But before you try to master this sophisticated type of mockery of technique, I would recommend bringing your skills in mastering the second element of burn out to automaticity.
From the point of view of execution technique, it is not for nothing that this element is considered the most difficult, since the turn of the motorcycle is carried out with a rather strong inclination, but the speed when “drawing” circles on the asphalt is not high, and therefore the effect on the motorcycle centrifugal force, preventing him from falling, will “help” less than usual. All this will require the performer to have an excellent sense of balance, coupled with a certain amount of recklessness (to be honest, I have never met anyone among the manic burn out lovers with even a small spark of common sense in their crazy look...).
In principle, the basic elements of the technique remain the same, that is, the clutch is completely released, and the hand is only “on duty” on its lever, the rotation speed is regulated by the gas, the front brake and... the tilt! A circular burn out with a strong slope (it’s a creepy phrase, but it very accurately reflects the essence of the matter) is a sign of aerobatics, requiring filigree motorcycle handling technique and your own canceled vestibular apparatus.
The fact that on the way to mastering it a motorcycle will encounter asphalt more than once is not even an assumption, but an unequivocal statement. But the speed of such contacts is low, so the damage is mainly purely cosmetic. After all, if you are seriously going to engage in this, essentially a purely stuntrider element, then your motorcycle should be hung with numerous sliders the envy of a Christmas tree. It’s also a good idea to install shortened clutch levers specially designed for “easy sliding” and front brake. I would also classify rear-view mirrors and turn signals as extremely unnecessary devices. Please note that the last remark is valid solely for the greater safety of the motorcycle in case of possible falls, but it works directly in the opposite side on road common use.
The most experienced annealers, writing circles of the correct shape with a decent inclination and speed of rotation, shrouded in clouds of smoke from their own rear tire dying in the name of a beautiful show, still allow themselves to completely release their left hand! Thus, clearly confirming that there is no need to “hang” on the clutch lever.
Naturally, with such “exploitation” the issue of the appearance of a dirty underwear tire is sometimes resolved literally in a matter of minutes. The main thing here is not to click uh... in the interests of censorship, we will write: by the oral cavity, since in the last moments of his short life on a stuntrider motorcycle, the rear tank usually explodes, filled with indignation and the feeling that he was cruelly set up. Immediately after this wonderful moment, if the “showman” is not ready for it, a fall may follow...
In general, more persistence and practice, and everything will definitely work out. Just don’t forget to include tire fitting services in your estimate of upcoming expenses, in addition to clutch discs and a certain number of rear tires. And as you wanted, you have to pay for a beautiful show...
Burnout, - slipping, in professional slang means warming up the tires on a car standing still, that is, slipping of the tires themselves and rubbing them against the asphalt. As a result of the contact of the tires with the hard surface of the asphalt, they begin to quickly heat up and smoke appears from under them.
Burnout, the so-called slip, is used before races on the drag racing track, for better grip of the tires on the road, as well as for better and more stable handling of a very powerful car on the rally track.
From its necessity of burnout, skidding quickly moved into the category of a kind of entertainment, thus becoming an element of a certain show, where its participants show more high level control the car using all its capabilities.
For burnout, i.e. For slipping, the following conditions are necessary:
1. Enough powerful car to warm up the tires, otherwise the wheels will not be able to rotate at high speed.
2. The car must be technically sound. Using this technique in practice, the loads on the engine, the brake system, wheel bearings and suspension reach maximum extreme values.
3. The car owner must be personally aware of the following fact that such heating of the rubber can and sometimes will lead to serious technical breakdowns.
Attention!!! The article was written with one purpose, namely to show the basics of the burnout technique. It in no way calls motorists to action. Any attempt to use this racing equipment for any recreational or professional purposes may result in serious damage car. Also, this type of activity can be dangerous both for the driver himself and for everyone around him. This method In no case should slippage be used in crowded places, as well as on public roads!!! This is mandatory requirement to all motorists.
I. Make sure your vehicle is suitable for slippage burnout. He must have sufficient quantity horsepower, for this purpose machines are usually suitable whose number of cylinders is actually more than four, which are equipped manual transmission transmission And for greater effect, you also need smooth tires, which have a large area of the so-called contact patch with the asphalt surface, which can produce a lot of effective smoke.
*If your car has automatic transmission, then using burnout - slipping is strictly prohibited. It will destroy the transmission and expensive repairs the car itself.
Rear-wheel drive vehicles
II. Engage first gear, then fully depress the clutch and gradually begin to increase engine speed. With a quick but smooth movement, begin to release the clutch pedal, while still pressing the gas.
Attention!!! To prevent the speed from going into the red zone, work with the gas pedal very carefully; you do not need to press it all the way to the floor. The ideal execution technique is shown in next video. (1.00 minute video). Play with the gas pedal, alternately pressing it harder or weaker, while constantly maintaining high but safe engine speeds.!!!
The average range of these revolutions should be between 3500 - 4500 rpm. On modern car this range is closest to peak torque.
After the clutch is completely released, move your left leg on the brake pedal. It takes some practice to press the brake pedal with the right amount of force with your left foot. It’s very difficult to do this the first time (and sometimes the tenth).
The braking force must be more than sufficient so that the rear wheels of the car continue to rotate freely, while the car itself remains in place or continues to move very slowly forward.
Attention!!! Attempts to do a burnout for the first time will naturally be initially unsuccessful over and over again, until you learn to feel the smallest nuances of the car. In this case, there is a possibility of overheating of the clutch itself, up to its failure. So try to monitor any unusual and foreign odors that appear in the car’s interior, as well as the behavior of the car itself when you turn on the gearbox and depress the clutch, precisely at the moment the pads meet the clutch disc!!!
Front wheel drive cars
III. On front wheel drive It’s a little easier to do burnout. To do this you need to press parking brake, then raise the engine speed and just as smoothly and quickly release the clutch pedal. As a result of such a rapid (almost instantaneous) increase in speed of rotation of the front wheels, the car will not move forward and will not stall; remaining in one place, it will begin to release the coveted and long-awaited puffs of smoke from under its tires.
On front-wheel drive, it is much easier to do burnout-slip. But there is one important nuance, the handbrake of the car must be in good working order, it must be able to hold the car in place.
Not enough power under the hood
IV. If the car does not have sufficient power for such experiments, for such a case, experts have some tricks in stock that help one hundred percent prevent the wheels of the car from slipping.
1. Lighten your car, especially for cars with rear wheel drive. There should be nothing unnecessary in the trunk, not even a spare tire. Before arriving at the site, take care of this in advance. The car's axle will be slightly unloaded and it will be easier for the wheels to slip.
2. Burnout - slipping on a chip. Rolling back at low speed with the clutch depressed, you do almost everything the same as the previous times. Release the clutch, then press the gas, but do not press the brake. As a result of multidirectional forces, one of the forces will be directed downward, and the engine force will be directed in the opposite direction, that is, it will pull upward; in this case, the car will remain in place without the brakes pressed.
3. Try this on a wet surface. The grip on the asphalt will be much weaker than it would be in dry weather, and this will definitely increase your chances of success.
V. And finally, one last thing. To reduce stress for yourself brake system use the Brake line locking system, - i.e. blocking. After installing it on the car and when you press the button, it will turn off itself rear brakes. This will simplify your task and keep the car in its original technical condition.
And as a snack for all readers, - Fail and Win compilations of burnout.
Dictionary
Burnout(English) burnout- “burnout, burnout”) - a trick in which the rear wheel slips on the asphalt, emitting clouds of smoke from burning rubber. Performed both in place and with slow circular movements
Drift (eng. drift - “to demolish, move”) - movement with the rear wheel drifting. Achieved more than is necessary for just movement by supplying gas at the moment the rear tire falls off
The simplest burnout, performed while standing still, is a rather stupid trick. However, it allows you to understand the motorcycle a little more, and, in addition, it is the basis for a more complex technique of owning a motorcycle - drifting.
Even the simplest burnout is a dangerous trick. You should clearly understand the potential dangers that await you on the training site:
the motorcycle can be pulled out from under you or thrown out of the seat;
a tire that is too worn may explode during a burnout;
the main safety rule in stunt riding - the presence of a friend - also remains in force here.
And, of course, be equipped to the maximum. At least during the learning process.
Because burnout literally kills before our eyes rear tire, it's better to use old tire than to wash a new one and soft rubber like we did for a photo shoot. Moreover, hard tires break into axle boxes much more easily than new ones. To perform a burnout, stunters use stale “dead” touring tires, which initially have a harder composition than sports tires.
The smaller the contact patch between the rear tires and the asphalt, the easier it is for the wheel to slip. Therefore, it is better when the pressure in the wheel is standard - 2.5 Bar. A flat tire will spread across the asphalt in a wide spot, making it more difficult for the wheel to slip.
Hold the clutch
So, the bike is started and warmed up, you are equipped and ready for exploits. Burnout on the spot must be performed with both feet on the asphalt. Squeeze the front brake firmly to prevent the motorcycle from moving. Make sure that the asphalt under the front wheel is dry and clean.
Without releasing the front brake, fully depress the clutch and engage first gear. It makes sense to lean forward a little to transfer your body weight to the front wheel and unload the rear. Now, holding the front brake, imitate starting from a stop: gradually release the clutch while adding gas.
It is appropriate to recall that on modern motorcycles you need to squeeze the brake and clutch levers not with all your fingers, but with several fingers (usually one or two are enough). The rest grab the handlebars, helping to control the motorcycle.
To safely complete the burnout, fully depress the clutch and close the gas, engage neutral. Only now can you release the front brake. If something goes wrong, immediately squeeze the clutch: this is the only way to quickly take control of the situation.
The main thing in a burnout is clear control of the front brake
To start performing the trick, add gas, gradually releasing the clutch
I feel sorry for Shin! The Metzeler Sportec M5 of our Super Duke is suitable for track racing, and not banal annealing of rubber
Circles on the asphalt
It seems to work, but is it still scary? No need to rush! It will take you a few tries to get the feel of the required force on the front brake lever and correct proportion clutch/gas to cause the wheel to slip.
After you have thoroughly rehearsed the trick, you can improve it a little. In order for the burnout to turn out beautifully, that is, the wheel immediately goes into slippage and starts smoking heavily, you need to lean on the steering wheel, squeezing the front wheel into the asphalt, confidently open the gas to speeds above average and smoothly and quickly release the clutch. During such a burnout, the rear wheel seems to float on the asphalt, while the motorcycle can be pushed a little with your hips left and right.
When you feel confident, you can try drawing a circle rear wheel, gradually moving it to the side. Front wheel keep it in place, in the center of the circle
Text: Nikolay Respect Stepanenko, Taras Mytskanyuk
Photo: Ruslan Razgulyaev
June 7
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