The filling technology of the foundation at a minus temperature requires a special approach. From the material you will learn about the features of winter concreting and how to avoid errors in the construction of the foundation in the winter

With the onset of winter, concreting is much more difficult, and most importantly, such works require careful preparation and complete compliance with all construction regulations. For example, the fill of the foundation in the murge soil can lead to the fact that the spring earth will overtake and seek, and the foundation will give a crack, which will result in expensive repairs.

But sometimes life contributes its own adjustments. The estimated work time is broken, and the foundation that was planned to pour in the summer, it has to be erected when the thermometer column falls below zero.

How to be in this case? Postpone work until spring? Or still risk and try to create a reliable basis for your dream home in adverse weather conditions? The experience of users FORUMHOUSE.RU says that with such construction, the main thing is to arm your knowledge and do not let anything on a self-shot!

The user of the forum with the nickname Alecscrab builders offered to pour the foundation in December, so that by the spring he grabbed, and in March - to start lifting the walls. Promised to significantly reduce the rates for their work, because Now - not the season, and they have few orders.

What to say, the proposal is tempting, but the forumchanin does not find peace by the question: how to correct the concrete at a minus temperature, and will it affect the strength of the foundation?

Profanus:

- Concrete is gaining strength of 28 days, but this is at a plus temperature, and with a negative concrete, it may not dial the strength at all.

Verdict forumchanin such: Winter Pouring is beneficial only to builders, because They want to earn. And for myself, he would never like to fill the foundation in the winter, even with a serious benefit.

If the air temperature falls to + 5 ° C, and at night the thermometer column falls below 0 ° C, then such construction conditions are considered winter.

With winter construction, the foundation must be poured using anti-corrosion additives and a special technology for warming concrete. And this leads to a significant increase in the cost of estimates for construction. And often the appreciation completely levels the benefits of a seasonal decline in the rates for the work of the builders.

According to 44Alex, if pouring concrete in winter with the compliance with the entire technology, it will be cheaper if only workers work completely free.

According to the forumchanin with Nick Grinkic, the construction of a monolithic foundation in the winter is not worth performing, because:

• additional costs for concrete are needed;
• special requirements for laying and maintaining concrete are needed;
• the electrical heating of concrete (or other heating) is required under constant temperature control;
• a short winter day leads to additional costs of coverage of the site, insulation of cabins for workers who do not burn with the desire to work in the cold;
• you can run into poor-quality materials.

Emelya:

– I, too, first wanted to fill the foundation slab in winter, but looking at the nucleation of the neighbors who poured their stove last year in December at -5 s, changed his mind. Now they have chokes from the edge of the slab and fall off pieces of concrete. The top layer, apparently, grabbed the frost, but under his foot he cries.

So what is the technology of winter fill the foundation and how much is the complexity of such works? To answer this question, it is necessary to understand which processes occur in concrete when pouring it under negative temperatures.

In the process of hardening in concrete, hydration reactions occur during which cement minerals, interacting with water, form new connections. Dehydration of concrete in early terms can slow down or stop the process of hardening and lead to poor safety, as well as cause its shrinkage and cracking.

At a minus temperature, water, not having time to react with cement, freezes. Therefore, the hydration reaction does not occur, which means that concrete does not solidify. Also significantly reduces the strength of the foundation and its durability. At the same time, the water frozen in concrete is often expanding in volume, the concrete clutch coefficient with reinforcement is reduced, which leads to the further destruction of the foundation. Therefore, the construction of the foundation in the winter requires careful compliance with the fill technology.

Taking into account all the above, it is not surprising why most developers with distrust relate to winter concreting. However, if you go to the case with the mind and armed with the necessary knowledge, you can pour a qualitative foundation and at negative temperatures. And sometimes it is the only way out.

For example, the foundation of the forumchanin SVETOCH -small breeding tape under the house 10x10. He only managed to pull out the trench and began to knit fittings. I wanted to pour concrete in the middle of the week (with antiorrosal additives, because at night - for a long time is minus). And here it turned out that weather forecasters promise rains and snow. Forumchanin worried: is it possible to leave a diverse trench with a partially flooded foundation and reinforcement for the winter?

Costeapechnik:

- If you leave everything as it is, then the valve rushes, and the base of the tape will burst! It is necessary to fill the foundation completely, and the rain and snow is not a hindrance, the main thing is to care for concrete after the fill.

Forum user with Nick Georgespb set another question: how to make a shelter for the fill of the foundation?

motorist:

- Shelter is done like this: a large tent is erected over the perimeter of the foundation, the heat gun is installed in it, and the temperature inside rises into a plus.

It should be remembered that with such a scheme a gun at 10 kW on an area of \u200b\u200b100 square meters. M gives approximately + 8-10 degrees to street temperature.

The fuel consumption is approximately 16-20 liters of gas per day.

If you need to work from -15 s, it is necessary to increase the power of the gun to 30 kW. Gas consumption will be 60-70 liters. It is about 1000 rubles. in a day.

The concrete is also warm and with the help of electricity - a welding transformer connected to the valve.

To do this, there are special transformers to warm up concrete products: The current is supplied through the electrodes set by about a distance of 40-50 cm from each other in the foundation.

But this method of heating requires special attention!

SEM2005:

- An experienced master is needed, which correctly assembles the electric heating and will follow the maintenance of the required temperature.

With this method of warm-up of concrete, the likelihood of electric shock is increased. That is why it is necessary to use a voltage transformer at 36 volts. Concrete overheating is also fraught with cracks, and the underwriting is freezing.

For concrete with antiorrosal additives, the strength to the moment of cooling it to the temperature on which the additives are calculated, should be at least 30% of the project with a brand to 200, 25% - for concrete brand 300 and 20% - for concrete 400 brand.

For concrete Without contamination additives of monolithic structures and monolithic part of the collection and monolithic structures, strength to the moment of freezing should be at least 50% of the design with a brand of concrete 150, 40% - for concrete brand 200-300, 30% - for concrete brands 400-500, 70% - regardless of the brand of concrete for designs subjected to freezing and thawing.

Antiorrose additives provide cement hydration and concrete hardware, but at negative temperatures, these processes go slowly, and concrete gains critical strength in about a month of hardening in the cold.

Concrete, which has achieved to the moment of frozenness of critical strength, the design strength acquires only after thawing and withstanding at a positive temperature of at least 28 days! This means that it is necessary to maintain the positive temperature of the covered foundation not only during concreting, but also after.

By summing up, it can be said that the fill of the foundation at negative temperatures leads to the rise in the cost of estimates and requires careful control at all stages of work. Instead, the developers get the opportunity to force the construction work and ahead of time to prepare the basis for the house before the beginning of the spring construction season.

What temperature to withstand with the fill of concrete in winter, it is tested here. You can read about the construction of the well in the winter in this topic.

The most complete and detailed information about the winter concreting is collected here. How to pour concrete in winter? The hot discussion of the "Cold" question is maintained in this topic.

In this video, it is described about the nuances of the reinforcement of a small-breeding belt basement.

The construction of the foundation in the winter is a rather laborious and troublesome, but feasible. It is believed that time from April to November is the most favorable period for mounting the foundation of any structure. But there are situations where work falls for the winter. Thanks to modern building technologies, you can build a reliable foundation that will not give up in terms of its characteristics, the foundation laid in the warm season. From this article, you can find out what is the fill of the foundation in the winter, is it possible to pour and how to make such a base.

When is the foundation winter fill?

With a thorough observance of the entire construction rules, the construction of a strong foundation is quite feasible even with the strongest frosts and, as a result, the proliferation of the soil. Filling the foundation in winter is not always required, it all depends on the project. Most often, the decision to start construction during the cold period is associated with the features of the soil. There are sites where the soil is scattered in summer, and only in winter, when the earth is well freezed, you can dug a good pit. In this case, the installation of the foundation is an excellent solution in implementing the task. In many regions of Russia, winter is the main time of the year, and there is practically no summer. Therefore, for the construction of the foundation of another period, simply does not happen. In addition, it is believed that the cost of material and winter work is much lower than in the summer months, although serious savings are unlikely to have to count on. Sometimes the fill of the foundation in the winter is needed when it is necessary to complete the construction process as quickly as possible.

Types of foundations in winter

To improve the founding of any structure in the winter period there are several types of foundations. Consider them in more detail:

1. The most common among developers is a ribbon foundation. In this case, experts advise to reduce the so-called "wet" operations, for example, use ready-made concrete blocks for stacking them into the pit.

2. Base from concrete piles. This type of foundation is ideal for light buildings, in particular wooden houses. Observing the construction technology and adhering to the basic rules, it is possible to obtain a solid pile base, which is not inferior to other species in its qualities. Next, you can learn everything about the fill of the foundation in the winter.

How to pour the foundation using piles? First of all, you need to distinguish their views. Piles from concrete are burbilling and bromardous. The foundation from the screw piles is ideal for winter work. Suitable for any complex soil.

Preparation of concrete mix

When the foundation arises, the question often arises: "Is it possible to fill the foundation in winter using a regular concrete?" No you can not. For these purposes, the one is suitable for which special modifiers are included. Thanks to the additives, concrete has time to gain the necessary qualities, it does not grab ahead of time. To all other things, the modifying additives are much facilitated by the fill of the concrete solution in the formwork.

When choosing modifiers, attention should be paid to the frost-resistance indicators and the speed of solidification of concrete. The required amount of substance is determined by the scale indicated on the package.

How to apply modifiers?

When using modified additives, it is necessary to focus on some of the main points:

The use of frost-resistant substances reduces the amount of water consumed by 10-15% in the manufacture of a concrete solution.

The minimum temperature in which the use of modifiers is acceptable is 25 degrees below zero.

When air humidity reaches 60%, the use of additives is prohibited.

It is necessary to take into account such factors in which individual components of modifiers interact with some metals.

The use of additives does not cancel some additional measures when the foundation is arranged in the cold period. When the air temperature is low, alone additives that affect the frost resistance of concrete is not enough. It is necessary to warm the concrete, equipping additional thermal insulation to maintain a certain temperature of the finished design.

The use of additional funds that make the foundation of the foundation in the winter

Another way, in which the answer to the question is whether it is possible to flood the foundation in winter, it will be positive, is to ensure the warming up of the base. It is known that its highest fortress is gaining concrete during the first two days. It is during this period that the foundation especially needs to protect against low temperatures. For heating the base throughout the perimeter, special equipment is used - thermal gun. With it, it is also provided and maintained by the desired concrete solution temperature. The more the foundation, the higher the power of the device should be

Also heated the foundation can be electronically. This method allows you to maintain the temperature needed to pour through heat transfer (from hot to cool). Concrete rebounds of the reinforcement, to which electrotes are supplied (380 V).

Negative moments of filling the foundation in winter

So, the answer to the question "is it possible to fill the foundation in the winter" is obvious. However, despite the many positive arguments in favor of this process, there are some negative points:

Although the cost savings of building materials are obvious, at the same time, the price of earthworks in frosty weather is greatly increasing. You will also incur additional spending on the warming up of a concrete solution, structures, so in general the construction savings in the winter is very dubious.

The efficiency of work in the winter period is much lower than in summer, as it is much more difficult to work in the frost.

The price of additives and modifying substances affecting the properties of concrete is low, but for the construction of even a small area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation, they need quite a lot. And therefore the price of building material increases significantly.

Sometimes it is necessary to use special equipment, in particular for digging a pit.

Therefore, before thinking about whether it is possible to fill the foundation in the winter, it is necessary to calculate all the costs and consider all the pros and cons of this venture.

List of basic materials and tools for creating a foundation

The following materials and tools are needed to arrange and fill the foundation:

• shovel;
• sawdust;
• building level;
• hacksaw;
• master OK;
• cement and concrete solutions;
• modifying additives;
• thermal insulation;
• reinforcing mesh;
• crushed stone.

How to fill the foundation in the winter?

Is it possible to do it? These questions are often concerned about newcomers in construction. After all, any work in the cold is very difficult, snow and frost can interfere. Specialist advice will prompt how to correct the foundation in the winter with their own hands. The rules of work are as follows:

First of all, a trench or pitched, while the dust moisture is controlled, which will be collected at the bottom. Water at a minus temperature freezes, the ice is formed to be removed, since nothing can not be put on such a base.

The next step is to install the formwork and frame of fittings. The formwork is poured by a concrete mixture. The required positive temperature must be maintained for a certain period of time (to accelerate the grasp process) with heating equipment. Immediately after the fill, the foundation can be inspired by referenced, plastic film. From above can be sprinkled with a layer of sawdust (20-30 cm). As a result, we have a finished foundation in the winter.

Is it possible to pour for winter? The answer is positive. But the walls on such bases are still recommended for positive temperatures, as a concrete solution needs a certain time to acquire strength. Prepare the foundation in the winter (taking into account all the rules and nuances), you can get a durable and durable structure.

Winter construction

In the summer, build both the foundation and the structure itself, faster, easier and cheaper. But there is no such possibility. This is due or with personal employment, or with the short period of the warm period. Through the use of modern materials and implementation in the practice of new technological solutions, the question of whether it is possible to fill the foundation in winter, almost lost its relevance. These works are successfully carried out at minus temperatures. Today, the effectiveness of concreting during frosts in terms of economic and labor costs is discussed.

Features of the construction of the foundation in winter

Making a foundation at low temperature is a difficult process. Workers will have to work in the cold. Winter is generally considered not the best time to create a monolithic design of a slab or ribbon type, the construction of pile and burbilic base species. The main reason for this is that water, which is one of the main components of the working solution, crystallizes when temperatures value below zero.

The formation of ice prevents the normal flow of the process of formation of reliable bonds between the concrete molecules - its hydration. Also, the expansion of water during freezing leads to the fact that the strength of the foundation is significantly reduced. This is due to the formation of pores in concrete ice crystals.

Filling of the basement basement

The hydration process itself occurs with heat dissipation. At the same time, the larger the size of the construction of concrete, the heat transfer above, and the fill cooling occurs more slowly.

In general, in winter, construction leads in the following cases:

• when the summer period is short, which is typical for the cold northern regions;
• if you need a speedy construction of the construction to a planned period;
• the reason for this may be the properties of the soil at the construction site.

It also takes into account that some building materials in winter can be purchased cheaper than in the summer (in the season of work). For the builders of cold - this is a period that is characterized by small amounts of orders, or their absence. Mostly occupied by those who specialize in the interior of the premises. Due to the increased supply of services, prices are falling for them. This also draws attention, starting construction in winter. But there is no significant savings, because the work is carried out using more complex technologies.

The disadvantages of the fill of concrete in the winter are:

• the complexity of the work;
• the need to attract heavy machinery;
• difficulties with organizing the warming up of the foundation;
• increasing costs for the purchase of additives that increase the frost resistance of the solution.

Due to the release of heat by concrete during frozen when working in the frost period, preference is given to tape or slab (monolithic) types of foundations, and not columnar. When they are erected, if the ambient temperature is slightly lower than zero, then it is possible to do without special additives and heating, using thermal insulating formwork and a special cover (from mats).

Starting construction, it should be borne in mind that on their own, manually, to fulfill the earthworks on the simulatory ground will not work. To do this, you will need to attract equipment.

Concreting technology

Make the foundation in the winter is possible with the use of various technologies. The choice of option for creating and maintaining the conditions necessary that the process of hydration of concrete proceeds normally depends on such factors:

• from the chemicals included in the working concrete solution, their proportional ratios;
• the size of the design being created;
• facilities of the climate of the area;
• availability of power supply network;
• grades of the cement used;
• the possibility of organizing water heating and liquid additives.

The stronger the particles of cement are crushed, the faster it enters the chemical reaction, highlighting the heat.

Were warm base with electricity

The normalization of the work contributes to the heating of the aggregate and water to 32 degrees immediately before the kneading itself. The temperature of the working solution will be in this case about 21º C. It must be borne in mind that cement cannot be warm because it will lose the binding properties.

The solution must be mixed thoroughly. It is also recommended to increase the time of the kneader by approximately 25% compared to the summer.

Application of additives for concrete

The main method allowing to perform the fill of the foundation during the cold, is the introduction of antiorrosal additives to its composition. Their contribution causes an increase in the amount of heat, independently produced by concrete. Supplemented with increasing heat transfer modifiers lower fluid crystallization temperature. Due to this, the process of hydration of compound concrete at lower temperatures passes in the usual way.

As an additive that increases frost-resistant properties, calcium chloride is often used. Its into the working solution is introduced in an amount not exceeding 2% of the entire mass. If this proportion exceeds, the strength of the created compression base is significantly reduced.

Supplement for concrete

With a stable temperature level near -15 degrees, the following substances are used to add to concrete:

• clamp salt (sodium chloride);
• sodium nitrate;
• potash.

The use of modifiers for concrete is often combined with the organization of artificial additional heating of the base.

If anti-corrosive fillers are used, the formwork is dismantled when the M400 brand concrete drops 20% strength. For M and M300, this indicator must already be 30%, and for M200 - 40%.

It is not recommended to experiment independently with the addition of available components to the fill formulations. It is better to use ready-made building materials.

Warming a flooded base

Methods for heating the flooded base in practice are applied different. The simplest option consists in pre-heating water and aggregate, or the entire solution. For these purposes, suitable:

• brazier;
• thermal gun;
• burners of various types;
• normal bonfire.

The concrete add modifiers accelerating the solidification process. After its fill, the whole design is covered using such materials:

• bags;
• tarpaulin;
• straw;
• heat insulating mats.

You can also cover with rags, unnecessary blankets. Around the base, roar or other thermal energy devices are installed. They are exploited until concrete gains the required strength.

You can make around the design of the seabed of the tent, which will contribute to more efficient energy spending. But in this case, you need to monitor the level of humidity in order not to overheat the flooded concrete. It will also be necessary to make a separate project on the design and dismantled it after work.

After reaching the monolith of the required strength (SNiP III-15-76, it is 70% and does not depend on the brand) formwork and insulation dismantle. If the concrete did not completely remove, then it is permissible to freeze. After defrosting, all processes will go in the right direction further, and the strength will lose about 5% of the designed for the project.

Alternative methods of heating and their implementation are presented in the table below.

1	creating "Thermos"	to do this, around the perimeter of the formwork, the heat generating trim, consisting of a metal case, with a steam or electric, or water circuit placed inside it
2	heating fill with steam	this method is implemented by laying in the formwork of the desired number of pipes, on which steam is served from a specially created pipeline
3	use of electricity	to implement this embodiment, steel wire, fixed in a certain way in the reinforcement frame or on the formwork, is used, or simply laid directly into concrete, which is allowed to be allowed
4	the use of induction heaters	such devices located around the perimeter of the foundation, warm it up with the heating of the electromagnetic field of reinforcement or metal formwork.

In practice, infrared heaters are used. Steam heated - an expensive and time-consuming method used rather rarely. Mounting an electric heating circuit through reinforcing and formwork

The meaning of all methods is to accelerate the setting of the solution.

Of all the considered methods, the most accessible are simple insulation of the base with various materials (followed by its heating) and the installation of the electric heating circuit. Performing a heated work requires an artist's presence of a certain level of qualifications in this field of activity, therefore specialists should be involved.

Filling the foundation in winter requires strict adherence to a number of nuances. The rules for carrying out works are as follows:

• parts to fill the base is not allowed: the formwork mounted under it should be filled with a solution completely;
• to avoid heat losses when laying concrete layers, it is necessary to make a small height and length, immediately overlapping them with the following;
• when forming a helium shell on the surface of the fill, it is required to rock it;
• during the preparation of trenches under the foundation, or a pit, they should be clearly cleared of snow, knocking down the existing out of fittings;
• immediately after digging and laying a pillow of sand, you need to put a straw to the bottom: such a shelter will prevent its icing;
• make the fill of concrete on the freezing soil can not, it should be preheated;
• be sure to provide free access to formwork from all sides;
• if after digging at the bottom of the trench, or water, water appears, then it must be deleted;
• formwork is better used with increased thermal insulation properties;
• prior to reaching concrete, a sufficient level of strength must be heated with all the flooded design, supporting the positive temperature.

Insulated opal

If you put the concrete directly on the frozen soil, then under the influence of heat formed as a result of the mass of the mass of the solution, the soil will begin to disappear and sees. At the same time, the sediment may be uneven and the foundation is deformed.

The rules of proper, effective work on the pouring of concrete is a bit. But they require strict compliance. It is easier and economically more advantageous to perform them when preparing and during the fill than after everything to redo.

Methods of filling the foundation in winter are shown in the videos below.


You can build a concrete base in the winter. The qualitative result is achieved by the use of antiorrose modifiers or the creation of a heating system, or the connection of these two methods. It is recommended to use ready-made supplements from well-known manufacturers and fine-glued cement. An important point is to carefully comply with the technology of work and the nuances of the process.

Articles on the topic:

In accordance with current building standards enshrined by the relevant gtales and lightning, concrete foundation gains strength for 28 days. Only after the specified time, you can begin the construction of the planned building on top of the flooded base. The situation in respect of the 28-day period is relevant for the warm season, because In winter, concrete gains strength much slower or, if you do not take care of performing some technological requirements, does not gain it at all.

How to fill the foundation in winter

Note! In the construction of supporting structures in winter, it is customary to count the period of the year, with the arrival of which the daily air temperature ceases to rise above + 15 ° C, and the night drops below 0 ° C.

Build the foundation in winter

Hence the question: Does it be sure to wait for warming to pour the foundation? It is desirable, but not necessarily. If it was possible to work with concrete only in warm weather, in the districts of permafrost, in the territory of which summer in its traditional understanding does not happen in general, it would not be better for any modern buildings.

Filling a belt foundation in winter

The technologies of arrangement of various types of reference grounds were considered in detail in the relevant publications of the site, to describe them again does not make sense. You are also invited to find out what conditions should be respected to the successful fill of the foundation during the cold season and with what difficulties can be faced with the recommendations of qualified specialists.

Winter construction

Advantages and disadvantages of winter fill

It is not necessary to talk about the benefits of winter fill the foundation. You can only feel some benefit from such an event if a third-party brigade will be engaged in the arrangement of the reference design. The meaning is: in winter orders few and workers reduce the price, attracting the attention of the Customer to the tempting proposals on the fill of the foundation in December-January, to continue construction by March-April.

It is possible to count on a favorable outcome of such a venture in the event that the customer hires a proven brigade with good reviews and appropriate qualifications. Otherwise, the imaginary savings will be wrapped only by even greater costs, because In case of violation of technology, concrete may not be captured and the foundation simply camshed with the arrival of heat.

Winter fill of the foundation

The negative moments of the concomitant winter fill of the foundation are quite a lot.

Firstly, the complexity of excavation of earthworks increases - to prepare a trench / hammering in the conditions of frozen soil on its own forces is unlikely to succeed. The only option is to resort to the use of special excavator techniques, which will not be better reflected in the final cost of the work.

Dig a trench in winter is not easy

Secondly, the efficiency of work is significantly reduced. Everyone, who at least once had to do certain construction events in the cold season, perfectly knows how difficult it is to make the same work in winter than in warm weather.

Thirdly, the total costs increase. It is justified by the simplest fact that it is necessary to buy additional modifying additives that contribute to an increase in the index of the frost-resistant concrete and making the foundation possible as such. With superficial acquaintance with the market situation, the price of modifiers may seem relatively irrelevant. But it is important to understand that additives have to be used in large quantities, and the total costs for their purchase will be very significant.

Thus, if the construction site is located outside the regions of permafrost, and the deadlines for the completion of work are not "burning", carefully glue all the advantages and disadvantages of winter concreting, before you decide on the implementation of such an event.

Video - Benefits of Winter Construction

About frost-resistant additives

Concretes poorly tolerate the effect of negative temperature - in such conditions, the material is destroyed, because During the freezing, the process of natural conversion of water from a liquid into a solid, accompanied by an increase in volume and discharge of various internal efforts and stresses. To level the listed negative impacts, additives that increase the frost resistance of concrete are used. The frost resistance rate is determined mainly by the presence of pores in the composition of concrete. In these microscopic voids there may be ice, without creating, while hazardous pressure for the material.

Concrete without frost-resistant additives

Concrete with frost-resistant additives

The greatest efficiency is characterized by additives with the content of surfactants. For example, the use of plasticizing additives such as SDB has a positive effect on frost resistance rates, because When using such modifiers, the formation of the optimal structure of the material is noted.

The use of plasticizing additives type SDB has a positive effect on frost resistance.

Under the optimal in this case, it should be understood a dense, not a microporous structure. It is with a dense structure that there is a slowdown in the grasp of the cement test, which increases the likelihood of the maximum amount of cement to the reaction and, therefore, gives concrete a chance to a full-fledged durability.

If necessary, special gas-forming additives may be included in solutions. Their use leads to the formation of spherical micropores, also contributing to the increase in frost resistance.

Plasticizer. Advantages: Increase the strength characteristics of concrete for ordinary materials by more than 15%, waterproof, frost resistance, corrosion resistance, surface quality

Important! Count on the positive effect of additives and modifiers can be solely provided with strict compliance with the manufacturer's instructions. When adding an insufficient amount of modifier into solution, there will be no pronounced positive changes and the material will begin to freeze, due to cement stone it will not be able to form. With the arrival of heat, the cement hydration processes are restored, however the structure of the mixture will be strongly changed, which will not be better reflected in the final strength of the supporting structure.

Stock Foto Foundation in winter

The procedure for using each modifying additive is determined in accordance with the provisions of the manufacturer's instruction, but several general rules can be distinguished that retain their relevance when using any modifier. Information on such recommendations is provided in the table.

Table. Permissible conditions for using modifying additives

The amount of water in the composition of the concrete mix	Almost all existing modifying additives make it possible to reduce the amount of water added to the solution. On average, savings keep at the level of 10-15%. Depending on the type of modifier, this indicator may change - specify the instructions in an individual order.
Air temperature at construction site	Certain temperature constraints are preserved even with the preparation of a concrete solution with the involvement of the corresponding modifiers - it is impossible to build a foundation if the air temperature on the street fell below -25 degrees (some additives allow you to increase this indicator to -35 degrees or more).
Air humidity at the construction site	Modifying additives lose their effectiveness with an increase in air humidity above 60% mark.

Important! When filling the foundation in winter, the list of necessary additional measures is not limited to the use of modifiers. Concrete It is necessary to warm up, heat insulating, protect against external influences and perform a number of other actions aimed at maintaining a certain temperature of the finished design - these moments will be individually discussed in the relevant section.

The list of existing modifying additives that increase the stability of concrete to negative temperatures is impressive. Next, you will be able to familiarize yourself with the brief description of the most popular and well-proven modifiers, but preliminarily examine several important comments regarding the correct use of additives.

Additive "Lignopan B-4" - an anti-corrosive-plasticizing additive (up to -18 ° C), allows concreting at negative temperatures, reduce the water flow rate by 5-10% with equal moving mixtures

First, remember: the summary costs for the purchase of modifying additives will be very significant. Be careful and initially buy those modifiers that are designed for applications in the conditions of your construction site.

Secondly, the rules for using different additives are different. Before applying the modifier, you must examine the manufacturer's instruction on the subject of the required amount of matter for a certain proportion of the solution.

Table. Popular modifying additives

Accelerating Antiorrose Supplement UPD	The mixture containing waste production of the ingredients below in these equity ratios: Acetoxus ether - 7 fractions; Acetylacetone - 3 shares; Nitrochloractinide - 1 share. The finished solution has a dark brown color. The required amount of accelerating contamination additive varies in the range of 100-420 ml per cement added per kilogram and is specified separately according to the surrounding temperature.
Sodium alcohol formate	The substance is classified as a by-product of the production processes of the petrochemical industry. The shade of a transparent liquid can vary from soft straw to saturated brown. The additive is brought into a concrete solution along with the indent water. The required amount of the modifier varies within 2-6% (determined, again, almost, in accordance with the ambient temperature).
Asol-K.	Effective at temperatures up to -10 degrees. In case of use in warm weather, the modifier accelerates the grasp of concrete.
Hydrobeton - S-ZM-15	At the same time increases the frost resistance and the plasticity of concrete mixes. It has the form of a dark brown liquid solution. The modifier retains efficiency when used in temperature mode to -15 degrees.
Hydrosight	It is used at a temperature similar to the elevated additive. Among the important advantages of the hydrosis should be noted the fact that, when contacting it, reinforcing rods, which are part of a concrete support structure, do not rust.
Lignopan-4.	Additive, promoting the increase in frost resistance and plasticity of concrete. Effective when using up to -18 degrees. The required dosage varies within 2-4% and above, depending on the air temperature at the construction site.
Sementol-B.	Antifreeze, effectively manifest itself in concrete mixtures and solutions. The additive can be used at an air temperature of up to +5 degrees, which significantly reduces the freedom of action in the winter period, but it is necessary to add it in a relatively small quantity - only 0.2-0.8% of the cement weight.
Ammonia water	It is an aqueous solution of ammonia gas. It is considered one of the most cost-effective modifying additives. It is characterized by a relatively low indicator of volume expansion, making the likelihood of a variety of deformation processes when filling the foundation in winter significantly decreases.

Ammonium water more often than other additives is used in winter arrangement of supporting structures and deserves separate consideration.

The concentration of the modifier, as before, is determined in accordance with the air temperature. Information on this account is given in the table.

Table. Required ammonia water concentration

As can be seen from the table, ammonia water retains efficiency even when used to prepare a concrete solution for filling the foundation at a temperature below -35 degrees. This property is a great advantage of ammonia water in front of other modifiers, the conditions of application of which are limited to an average -15-25-degree indicators.

The use of ammonia water, in contrast to many other modifiers, eliminates the risk of corrosion of the reinforcing frame. The additive does not have a negative impact on the quality of the adhesion of steel rods with concrete of the foundation, does not disrupt the frost resistance of the structure, does not form spots and heels on the surface of the designs of the structures.

When using ammonia water, a certain slowdown of the timing of concrete mixtures is noted - the composition will remain comfortable for laying for 4-7 hours.

Introduction of antiorrosal additives

Features of the Foundation Winter Filling Technology

In order to understand the peculiarities of the fill of the concrete foundation at negative temperatures, it is necessary to study the processes flowing in solution in such conditions.

Features of the Foundation Winter Filling Technology

Concrete hardness is associated with hydration reaction. During its course, the interaction of cement and water minerals occurs, based on the results of which new connections arise. If concrete dehydration occurs prematurely, the process of hardening will slow down either even completely stop, as a result of which the foundation will not get the necessary strength, it will take place and cracks.

With negative temperatures, water without having time to join the reaction with cement components turns into ice. Without modifying additives and other concomitant protection, the hydration reaction will not be completed, therefore, concrete does not gain the desired hardness. As a result, a significant reduction in the strength of the supporting structure and its service life. The frozen water, along with this, increases in the amount, due to which there is a decrease in the coefficient of the concrete mixture with the reinforcing frame, which is also fraught with the destruction of the structure.

Winter fill foundations has many features

Considering the foregoing, the distrust of the majority of developers to the winter fill foundation becomes quite understandable. But if you consider the planned event with the mind and knowledge of the case, you can get a high-quality reference basis even at a negative air temperature. Moreover, in many cases it is the only possible solution.

Methods for maintaining normal concrete temperature

There are several ways to ensure the right fill of high-quality, reliable and durable reference base during the cold season. You are invited to familiarize yourself with each of them and choose the most optimal option specifically for your case.

Dense internal structure of high-quality monolithic concrete

The use of modifying additives

Detailed information on modifiers that increase the frost resistance of concrete mixes was previously provided. Information regarding the fill of concrete as the technological process was phased in the relevant publication. Next will be given only step-by-step recommendations regarding the normal flow of the process of hardening and set the strength of concrete fill in winter.

Before studying the preparation instructions for the preparation of a concrete mix for the fill of the foundation, remember the following important rules:

• modifiers can be administered as in the form of a powdered substance when mixing the dry components of the mixture and in the form of a liquid by mixing with water before adding it to the solution. Recommendations for choosing a specific option specify in the instructions to the modifying additive used;

  Introduction Additives in concrete

• the use of modifiers involves a decrease in the amount of water used on average by 15-25%. The specific value should also be specified individually in the instructions for the selected modifier.

In terms of private construction, the introduction of a modifier into water is more convenient - no need to use dispensers, scales and other additional equipment used in industrial conditions during the preparation of dry mixtures. Yes, and to achieve homogeneity of the solution when the modifying additive is easier to enter the water - a building mixer or a drill with an appropriate nozzle will help.

An example of kneading additives for concrete

The procedure for the preparation of a concrete solution using modifying additives is not much different from the sequence of preparation of the mixture for fill without use. Information on this is shown in the table.

Table. Cooking concrete manually using modifiers

Preparation of a set for work	Ideally, you need to purchase or at least take temporary use (you can try to negotiate with the nearest construction company) Concrete mixer. In the absence of one, it will have to work manually, and this, even in the case of a small foundation (for example, with a 80-centimeter embedding support for a modest bathhouse with dimensions of 3x4 m, about 10 cubic meters of concrete), long and time consuming. If it is not possible to get a concrete mixer, use a wide container to knead the solution, for example, trough, as in the image. Additionally, you will need: hoe, shovel and bucket.
Mixing dry components	Dry components are mixed in the following proportions: to the share of cement (the material of the brand is not lower than M400) is added 3 shares of sainted sand (it is best to use a varinfraction sand, i.e. with sandbags of various sizes, not having clay and organic impurities, ideal The option is "enriched" mountain sand, in the absence of such - washed with river) and 5 shares of different sided chopenka without additional impurities. Components are thoroughly mixed with a hoe or another suitable device.
Mixing water and modifying additive	Traditionally, water is taken in the amount of 50% of the mass of cement. When using modifying additives, as noted, the required amount of water may decrease by 15-25% relative to the standard recipe - this moment, as well as the required proportion of the additive, is subject to individual clarification into the instructions for the selected modifier. The additive is entered into water, after which the components are mixed to a homogeneous state with the help of a construction mixer or an electrician with an appropriate nozzle.
Mixing dry and liquid components	The liquid component is brought into a dry mixture. Add water with a modifying additive and thoroughly mix the solution, trying to get rid of the lumps formed and provide absolute homogeneity. Properly cooked concrete solution for the fill of the foundation should slide from the shovel, without scattering, without spreading and does not settle.

The sequence of the preparation of the solution in the concrete mixer is somewhat different from the above.

Preparation of mortar in concrete mixer

First, water is poured into the container, after which the desired amount of cement is added (according to the recipe). Next, the mixture is made in the mixture and the components are thoroughly mixed for 3-4 minutes. The concrete mixer turns off, a modifying additive is added to the container in the amount specified by the manufacturer, after which the crushed stone is made to the mixture (the proportions were indicated earlier), and the components are mixed for at least 10 minutes. At the output, a homogeneous mixture of normal density should be obtained.

Homogeneous mixture

Ready concrete is used for its intended purpose. References to the relevant instructions were previously brought. But one of the use of modifying additives, as noted, is not enough - it is necessary to take additional measures to ensure thermal insulation and, if necessary, the subsequent heating of the fill.

Important note! The use of antiorrotic modifying additives allows you to make a possible fill of the concrete foundation in the cold season, but it will still need to harden the hardening and a set of strength of the structure, rather than in warm weather.

A set of critical strength at negative temperatures occurs on average per month. Upon reaching critical strength, concrete begins to type design strength only after thawing. To achieve regulatory strength designs, 28 days will be required. Thus, the positive temperature of the protected reference base must be maintained and after the completion of concreting.

Fundament insulation

By solving the issue of organizing the thermal insulation of concrete fill, it is better to do at the stage of formworking. The technology consists in the construction of an indiscriminate structure from special polystyrene foam blocks instead of assembling a traditional formwork from wooden boards.

It looks like design as follows.

The market contains blocks of various sizes, which allows you to choose suitable elements for the formwork of the foundation of any shape and dimensions. The end parts of the blocks are equipped with grooves and gear cuts, which ensures the bonding elements without the need to use third-party fasteners.

Streckling cost - non-removable polystyrene formwork

An important advantage of this assembly method is the absence of cracks between the blocks, which guarantees the maximum possible quality of thermal insulation and eliminates the need for additional sealing of the joints.

Foundation Formwork - Elements

Polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, which allows you to abandon the device for solid waterproofing. In this case, the material is not subject to rotting, therefore, on the preservation of concrete fill, in contact with such a non-removable formwork, you can not worry.

Flusted formwork made of extruded polystyrene foam

The technology of arrangement of such insulation is reduced to the installation of non-removable formwork elements in the dummy pit / trench around the perimeter of the future reference site with their subsequent fastening by means of available grooves and gear cuts.

Helpful advice! To install in the corners of the trench, it is better to use specially intended angular blocks.

The use of such eliminates the likelihood of forming the formwork in the design of the formwork and deterioration of its thermal insulation characteristics.

Important! The carrying ability of the polystyrene foam formwork is limited - in case of its use, only a non-heavy wooden bath can be built on top of the finished foundation. The loads created by buildings from bricks and building blocks, with a large share of the probability lead to the destruction of polystyrene foam elements.

Additional aspects of the foundation insulation were considered in detail in the relevant publication.

Construction Sports over the foundation

To ensure the protection of a concrete base from snow and cold air masses, a canopy is constructed by tent type. As a protective material, a car awning or ordinary tarpaulin is well suited - they are characterized by high moisture-repellent properties and are strong enough to withstand the loads characteristic of the cold period of the year.

It will look like this design as follows.

Construction Sports over the foundation

In the photo, a full-fledged frame with vertical racks, horizontal crossbars and even improvised rafters for maintaining a tarp roof was built.

Specialists recommend not to regret the time and build just such a reliable framework. Moreover, when the foundation is arranged for a private bath, it does not take a lot of time and effort. Yes, and internal vertical supports in your case with a large share of probability will not be needed - the need for their application occurs only when arrangement of large-scale supporting structures.

For vertical supports you can use a timing of 10x10 cm or 10x15 cm. Horizontal crossbars and rafters make 3-4-centimeter thickness from wooden boards.

Procedure Next:

• vertical supports are installed. Due to the fact that the design will continue to be dismantled, we offer to use the following option: You retreat approximately halfter (to work conveniently) from the external border of the future foundation, digging the pits of the 60-80-centimeter depth in the corners of the site and on its perimeter in step to 1, 5-2 meters (the width and length of the holes are 5-7 cm more of the cross section of the bar on each side), turn the lower end of each rod rubberoid to the heft height (this will not give wood supremely agrees), install the racks in the pits strictly in the vertical position, Fall asleep the free space between the supports and walls of the pit with crushed stone and thoroughly tamper. It would be possible to pour the pits with concrete, but this will create difficulties with the subsequent dismantling of the temporary protective design. In practice, the crushed stone perfectly copes with the task of it. For greater confidence, with a periodicity of a few days, check the status of the backfill, align the poles (if required) and seal rubble;
• rubber horizontal elements are stuffed. To subsequently, it was easier to disassemble the design, perform fastening with bolts / screws. Use a minimum of 2 fasteners at each point of intersection of the horizontal jumper with a vertical reference counter. Between the individual longitudinal elements, withstand the half-meter distance in height. The real need for the installation of additional internal supports occurs if the platform width exceeds 6 m. Use the internal pillars will only be used when arranging a ribbon foundation and a column support structure. In most cases, such a limitation is not a serious obstacle, since The slab foundation under the bath is poured extremely rarely and its arrangement is better to postpone until the heat arrival;

  Framing of frame carcass

• mounted rafters. The procedure, recommendations for the use of fasteners and a step between the elements of the system remain similar to the previous item. Internal backups, as noted, do not apply - tarpaulin weighs relatively a bit and the existing framework will cope with the loads created;

  Awning on the carcass

• framework is performed. The tarpaulin or awning is attached to the boards throughout the external perimeter of the erected design. To fix the material, use a building stapler with brackets, minor nails or other suitable fasteners. Crepe to horizontal boards with a step of 40-50 cm. Do not forget to leave an unfixed place to enter.

  Foundation under a canopy

Helpful advice! For outdoor skin, use a tarp length that exceeds the height of the walls by 20-30 cm. Free part of the material at the bottom you will fit to the ground by installing bricks from above, building blocks and other suitable items. This will be minimized by the injection of the finished design.

An even simpler embodiment of protective shelter, perfectly suitable for isolation of small reference sites, is considered in detail in the section "Foundation for 20 days: video selection" in the appropriate lesson.

Organization of additional heating of the foundation

In the complex with the elevated protective tent, special equipment is well shown, which allows maintaining the temperature inside the tent at a higher level, compared with the street.

Heat gun

The most simple and easy-to-use option for such equipment is a heat gun operating on gas. This system looks like this.

The heat gun works on the principle of a conventional heater:

• the device is connected to the source of energy (in this case, the gas cylinder protrudes as such);
• the unit begins to work;
• the air temperature rises.

The use of a thermal gun has a significant drawback - its work is inevitably accompanied by relatively large financial expenses.

Heat gun at construction site

For example, the use of a 10-kilowatt unit allows to increase the air temperature inside the tent with an area of \u200b\u200b100 m2, a maximum of 10 degrees compared with the street temperature. In such conditions, the gun will burn up to 20 liters of gas during the day.

If the street is colder -15 degrees, for heating the site of the specified area there will have to use a power gun of about 30 kW. Gas consumption, while will increase threefold. In the monetary equivalent, costs will be about 1000 rubles per day. Operating the data given, you can calculate the cost of heating the support base in your case.

Are such financial investments are appropriate or better to wait for heat offensive - in this matter, each developer must decide on its own.

A good alternative thermal cannon is a special transformer designed to warm up concrete structures.

CTPOT-80 transformer station is designed to warm up concrete and monolithic structures

Transformer open

Important! Do not attempt to connect the transformer yourself without having appropriate skills and qualifications - it is dangerous for life. It is better to initially turn to an experienced specialist and protect yourself from possible tragic consequences.

The electrodes are connected to the transformer one end, the second to the valve in the step of the order of half a meter. To such work, a qualified master must be brought to be attracted, capable of correctly mounting the electrical heating system and ensure control of its functioning in the future.

An example of warming up the plate. Between the reinforcement, heating cables are laid

Any errors when using the transformer can lead to the defeat of workers engaged in the construction of the foundation, electric shock. To minimize risks, 36-volt equipment applies.

Summing up

Conclusion from the foregoing as follows: Concrete can be poured in winter, but only if there is justified necessity, because This technology has a number of shortcomings.

If preference is given to the winter concreting exclusively because of the desire of the developer to save on third-party workers, you need to think about several times, because According to the result, the imaginary savings can turn into additional costs when carrying out earthworks, insulation, the construction of protective shelter and the organization of heating.

Concretion in the summer period of the year takes much less temporary, labor and financial resources. If the fill of the foundation in the winter is the only possible option, perform work in strict accordance with the recommendations received.

Foundation for 20 days: video selection

For a better understanding of the process, we suggest you familiarize yourself with the video selection, a phased illustrating the process of independent arrangement of the foundation.

The first day. Marking

Second day. Excavation

Day Third-fourth. From pillows before reinforcement

Day of the fifth six. Continuation of the arrangement of the internal layers

Seventh-eight day. Important issues of waterproofing

The day is the ninth-tenth. Learning to work with level

Day 11-14. We do warmly

Day 15-20. Complete work

Video - how to fill the foundation in the winter

Many compatriots, reading the title, will no longer turn to the article. Since such a procedure has become a kind of ritual, observed fathers, grandfathers and other ancestors. Yes, indeed, another 40 years ago in the operating instructions for domestic cars, one of the filter replacement items stood compulsory compounds.

But since then something has changed - approaches, technologies, procedures. Why it is impossible to pour oil into the filter when the oil is replaced - the provocative question. However, we will try to answer it.

Cleaner element - what is it?

Oil filter - This is the necessary part of the engine lubrication system. Its main function to skip the liquid through itself and delay the malicious particles of dust, slags, not allowing it to penetrate into the engine. Depending on the brand of the car and the engine model, the filters can be located under it, on the side and from above. This information is enabled in the future.

There are two types of filtering units:

Inside the filter are: a coil, filtering paper, folded in a certain way and having a fibrous structure, a sealing ring and a box from above. The structure is quite simple. However, low-quality paper gluing technologies, its composition, folding method, density, sealer materials - all this may not be better affected by the duration of the filter and on the quality of the functions performed. This aspect should also be taken into account when considering the situation, why when replacing oil it is impossible to pour oil into the filter.

The internal structure of the cleaning unit consists of two valves:

• Back - Does not allow the inside the car in the carter. Prevents air passage from outside
• Bypass - Changes with situations of oversupply of petroleum products within the aggregate. In winter, the lubricant has the property to thicken from lowering temperatures. Or the filter has not changed for a long time, and enough dirt has accumulated on its walls, interfering with a free lubricant flow to the system. To prevent the engine wear from excess friction of parts (especially at the first seconds after starting, when the temperatures do not have time to take the desired values), the bypass valve on oil pressure is opened and passes it further without cleaning. In low-quality units, this type of valve can function incorrectly. Or do not open - then the replacement must be carried out more often. Or do not keep pressure and be open constantly - then cleaning does not happen. In the other case, the motor suffers.

Not always the reason in the filter

Mechanics on car services advise to select filters not only on the coinciding thread, but also to repel from the types of engines that can differ greatly even within one manufacturer.

1. So if the engine is configured to a strong oil pressure, and the filter is on the contrary - it will freely carry oil, without cleaning it from the abrasive material.
2. If the motor is configured to low oil pressure, and the filter is capable of working only with an increased, the bypass valve will not open - the risk increases the engine to damage the engine especially during the cold season.

Not always a change in the color of the oil speaks of unsuccessful filter operation. Particles passing through its fibers sometimes have a size significantly smaller than the pores of the paper, so they freely fall into the engine system. But thanks to the cleaning additives in oil, they do not settle on the walls, but are outlined with him, due to which the color of lubrication is darkened.

Motorists, noticing the burning of the oil on the instrument panel when the engine is started at idle, begin to worry. Especially if this happens longer than 10-15 seconds. First of all, the filter is blamed. However, he is not always guilty. Inside the filter, oil pressure as such is not created, at least due to the internal valves. In fact, it is just paper on the lubrication path. In addition, pressure sensors affecting the indicator on the panel are not located here, but in other motor nodes. Because the Maslenka went out, do not rush to throw out the cleansing unit. Watch more.

Antiforms

Having analytical thinking and familiar with the experience in different countries, we want to describe the reasons why it is impossible to pour oil into the filter when the oil is replaced.

There are no such recommendations in any instructions. On the packages of filters you can see the icon with the oilbox. But he recommends lubricate only the sealing ring when installing, in order to avoid incluse. This procedure does not give any improvements in the operation of the motor. Even if you wish to merge all the oil, for example, for shifting it, about 25% of the engine volume will be filled. For the first seconds of the warm-up of this amount, it is enough, and then lubricant from the crankcase is already tightened.
When filtering the filter with oil inside along the walls of its box, air remains, which prevents the discharge of the desired pressure into the engine. Why the oil indicator is burning just longer than the usual.

The liquid falling inside the unit can capture foil particles, plastics from the bottle, other sewage. And cleaning at this moment does not happen here, why it is impossible to pour oil into the filter when the oil is replaced, otherwise the piston group will suffer.

Aesthetic moment. We mentioned that the filter on different motors can be screwed up and on the side, and upside down. Then part of the oily oil will inevitably fall into arms, face and other surface.

Summing up all the above, we do not recommend grinding the filter before installing. Foreign colleagues, having heard about such a procedure, at least in bewilderment, because they never did anything like that. On the other hand, it is rather a ritual procedure to support the links of generations and calm the owner. But if we did not convince you, continue to do as ancestors and do not shift on the burning oil.

"When replacing engine oil, is it necessary to pour oil into the filter?". This question is often found on autofors, especially he is interested in novice car enthusiasts, whose experience of replacing consumables is small or not at all. We decided to figure out this issue.

Filtering device

Car enthusiasts that insist on the need to pour the machine inside the filtering device before it is installed, such arguments are given:

1. Inside the new element for filtering there is a special porous material in the "dry" condition - the filtering curtain, it is not lubricated by the car. When the motor is started, the specified curtain can be broken due to the flow of motor fluid flow under pressure.
2. The filtering device has a volume of about 300 ml, which when the motor starts, will be filled with a car first, then the liquid will go into the engine. Therefore, there is a possibility that inside the power unit will arise "dry friction" - it is fraught with a breakdown of the motor.
3. The filter unfailed with lubricating fluid can lead to the formation of an air traffic jam.

Thus, drivers are recommended to fill the oil filter to the Motor mixture before installation, then give it to stand up for about 30 minutes, so that the filter material absorbed a certain amount of auto. How much is this opinion? Let's figure it out.

Arguments against Pouring

The car manual indicates the sequence of replacing the lubricant and the filter element. Take, for example, the instructions for the Subaru Forester 2005 model year, it describes the filter replacement algorithm. The dealer indicates that before installing a new element for filtering, it is necessary to apply a little lubricant on the rubber seal. Nothing to pour oil into the device does not say.

Oil filter also has an instructions for installation and icons. According to the instructions, the filter element replacement sequence is mainly as follows:

1. Purify the seating surface.
2. Apply a little fresh oil on the rubber ring of the filtering device.
3. Install the fitter on the seat, tighten the device manually.
4. Tighten the filtering element to ¾ turns.
5. Look at the leakage of lubricant.

Please note: on the pictograms depicted a droplet of the car over the rubber ring. Plus, the manufacturer does not indicate the need to pour the engine fluid inside the filter before installing it.

Conclusion

The answer to the question: "Do I need to pour oil into a filter when replacing the engine fluid?" Obvious - no need. There is no tangible harm to such a procedure, but I will not benefit, you just spend extra time. This opinion is explained as follows:

1. Aerial cork cannot be formed due to the "dry" filter curtain. This statement is obvious if you explore the device and the principle of operation of the filtering element.
2. When the motor mixture is drained from the engine on the internal elements of the motor, an oil film remains. Therefore, during the start of the auto motor (after replacing the consumable material), the power unit will not work "on dry". Plus, at idle, without a large load, the engine is able to work for some time without damaging its internal elements. This time is enough to pump fresh oil through the system and filling the friction units inside the engine with oil film necessary thickness.
3. The flow of the engine fluid supplied by the oil pump (depends on the car model), is about 50 l / min. With a pressure of up to 5 bar, the oil channels have a small cross section. The volume of oil poured into the device for filtering seems to be "drops to the sea" compared with the total flow of the mixture of pumpable by system. Therefore, it cannot be significantly affected by the "dry" filter to work the motor, it will quickly be filled with a pressure fluid under pressure.
4. "Dry" filter material cannot be broken by the flow of incoming engine fluid. The rupture of the curtain will occur in two cases: the filtration element is poor or incorrectly selected (small bandwidth).

If the above arguments are not convincing, pay attention to the recommendations of manufacturers of filtering devices and cars. Dealers are recommended to lubricate the rubber ring, but do not pour the oil inside the device. Note: Replacing consumables is performed according to the requirements of manufacturers.

After what period do you need to change the oil filter? Why did the oil in the air filter appear? Filter HBO - varieties, appointment, replacement frequency

Disputes around the choice of engine oil, poured into the engine and to this day. Some car enthusiasts believe that when replacing the oil filter, it is necessary to fill it with oil, others are confident that it is a waste of time. So how to be? How to replace the filter? Let's all in order. In the end, I will explain why you do not need to lubricate the sealing gum with engine oil, and I will also tell you how to do it.

Arguments in favor of pouring oil into the filter during replacement

I want to immediately say that these are only arguments that drive drivers protruding for filling the oil filter. No more.

1. the filtering curtain, which is inside the oil filter, is not lubricated. During the start of the engine, pressure will be created, and the engine fluid sells it. As a result, the filter will come into disrepair;
2. "Dry friction." The volume of the filtering device is about 300 ml. First of all, after starting the engine, the filter will be filled. As a result, for a moment, the engine will remain without lubrication;
3. if the oil filter does not fill in with oil, then this is fraught with the formation of air traffic jams.

The engine of the car must work simply, as the vehicle manageability indicator on the track depends on this. Moving motor elements need permanent lubrication. Therefore, behind the level of lubricant material must be constantly monitored. Each motorist should know how to add oil into the engine engine.

Before pouring a lubricating composition of a certain viscosity, it is necessary to find out what the oil fluid is now in the car. If the car is already with mileage, then information about the consumility can be found at the former owner. At the former owner, it will not be superfluous to ask how the oil was blurred in the power unit of transport? Next, it remains only to pour the lubricant of the required brand and viscosity. Additionally, you can dig in the instruction manual for the machine and find out all recommended information from the manufacturer.

• Basic lubricant functions

  Lobrikant topping in the car engine system is carried out when various factors occur. These can be natural phenomena and defects that appeared in the operation of the motor, for example, when using poor-quality consumables.

  Before adding oil into the engine, you need to know whether the oil tank is in the engine. You should check the level of lubrication in the motor compartment of the car. A similar operation is done on the cooled engine. It is desirable when the car is simple from the night. Some drivers make express analysis of the oil fluid level, letting stand by car alone a few minutes. This procedure provides only approximate results.

  As you know, without motor fluids, the car installation will not work, as it serves a number of important functions.

  The lubricant in the motor is constantly exposed to high loads, especially temperature. Delta can be up to several hundred degrees. But such conditions should not affect the functionality of the lubricant mixture. Oil fluid capable:

  • Reduce contact between working metal surfaces, deposits are excluded;
  • Reduce the likelihood of premature wear of working mechanisms, thanks to the use of anti-wear modifiers. The service life of the power unit of transport increases;
  • The stable viscosity of the lubricant element compacted gaps between piston rings and cylinders. Compression increases, eliminating hot gases to the engine crankcase;
  • Distill heat from the working mechanisms of the motor system;
  • Prevent the formation of nagar, sludge, plaque and other types of pollution, maintaining a power unit clean. This function is performed by detergents or dispersants, which are part of any machine fluid;
  • Save high oil resistance to oxidation reactions and rusting metal surfaces by using antioxidant and anti-corrosion inhibitors.

  This is just a small list of useful quality lubricant material to preserve the normal efficiency of the engine. Therefore, the level of engine fluid should always be higher than the minimum mark.
  

  What does the excess or lack of automotive lubrication lead to?

  Any experienced driver will say that the oil level during a preheated engine should be on the mark between the lower and the upper bar of the mechanical probe. How to measure the amount of car?

  

  Checking the oil level

  Is it possible to top up the oil in a hot engine? The answer is not desirable, since the level indications will be incorrect, and can be burned when the procedure is carried out. Level check is recommended to do "on the cold", after the night of idle or through the express check, which is as follows. To begin with, it is necessary to warm up the power installation of the engine to the optimal operating state. A small trip is an excellent version of the engine warming. After that, the vehicle should be fixed on a flat surface, turn off the engine and wait about 20-30 minutes. It is necessary that the oil mass of the glass into the pallet of the crankcase. Next, measurement of the lubricant level is performed.

  Excess oil

  Before adding oil into the engine, you must consider the main errors that begin beginner drivers. Most of the beginners believe that the oil can be pouring as much or always required to maintain the level at the maximum metal rod mark, the effect will only be better.

  The first consequence is the poor rotation of the engine. This is explained by the fact that any engine fluid has a certain viscosity, and its excessive amount in the system creates additional resistance. Workers spend more energy in motion. So there is an increased fuel consumption, but this is not the worst.

  In the process of working, Lubrikant starts expanding in the car motor system. In a high-temperature medium, an increased pressure occurs, which acts a negative way to all seals of the working device. All the glands, gaskets begin to be squeezed over time, and motor oil appears. The seelings of the crankshaft shaft are particularly sensitive, since the lubricant enters pressure. As a result, all the inner decoration of the engine is contaminated, the glands are subject to replacement. In addition, a number of consequences of overflow are distinguished: the car is difficult to start in the frost, the "occurring" piston rings, foaming of the oil composition.
  

  Lack of consumed oil

  Removal of lubricants also adversely affects the power installation of the car. The effect of oil hunger of work units and mechanisms, that is, at the time of starting the engine, the oil goes to moving parts in insufficient quantity. Small volume of lubrication is not able to form a solid film to reduce contact between metal surfaces.

  The absence of an optimal amount of lubricant in the engine contributes to the appearance of air pockets, which will be distributed throughout the system.

  The crankshaft will start working without a lubricant, as a result, fine metal dust will be formed, which will subsequently fall into the engine fluid. Over time, the likelihood of piston jamming is large.

  It is for these reasons that need to regularly check the level of lubricating fluid and add it if necessary.

  How to correct oil into the engine? This question is asked by many novice drivers. The entire process of oil tank in the engine includes a number of elementary operations with which any motorist can cope.

  

  Initially, the hood of the machine should be opened and fix it on a metal hook or rod. The hood of the car, as a rule, opens by pressing the lever, which is below the level of the driver's left knee. Next should be kept on the lever under the cover of the hood.

  After that, it is necessary to find the oil-coaling neck sealed with a lid. It is located on a motor cylinder block. Usually there is an inscription "Oil Fill" or labeling the viscosity of the oil used, for example, 5W30. The cover is unscrewed, is cleaned with clean rag and left aside.

  A funnel is inserted into the open space. It is necessary to exclude cases of spill of motor oil over cylinders. Fill oil with small portions. It is not allowed to turn the container with butter upside down. It is necessary to pour about 200 ml per session, then you should wait 20 minutes to the engine oil in the base of the crankcase.
  
  After the fresh portion of the dose lubrication is at the base of the crankcase, its level is checked with a metal rod. If the automotive oil is an insufficient amount, then the operation can be repeated, until the lubricant level approaches the nominal, between the minimum and maximum value. Oil rod To check the lubrication level before each test, it is necessary to wipe dry rag.

  If a little engine oil fell on the engine space, then you should not panic. The residues of the lubricant are hazardous when a sharp smell of burning oil occurs after the engine warming. It is desirable to clean the spiring site with a dry cloth or a paper towel.

  When the level of the machine fluid reaches the optimal indicator, it is necessary to fix the oil dipstick and the neck cover back to its place. The main thing is that everything is tightly twisted.

  All unnecessary items are removed from the rotor area, the lid closes. Next, you need to start the engine, and give a time to work for some time. At this time, the driver should carefully listen to the operation of a power device for identifying foreign sounds and noise. If the sensor "Check Engine" is triggered, then the driver immediately should be visited by the auto repair shop.

  Now we know how to correctly fill the oil into the engine, and is it possible to top up the oil into the hot engine. Timely plotting of lubricant material allows you to save the resource engine of the car. This means that all working details of the power unit will be lubricated on time and protected from oil starvation, and other unwanted factors.