The Kalina gearbox lever is loose, how to fix it. Play in door hinges on Lada Kalina, tightening and replacing bolts. If the cause of the rattling is in the upper gearbox cover or nuts

A knocking sound in the front suspension of Kalina requires full diagnostics chassis of the car. It is the suspension that is particularly negatively affected by defects in road surfaces, various holes and dents. A creaking or knocking sound from the suspension indicates any breakdown of the chassis mechanism that needs repair.

Features of Kalina's suspension

Upon closer inspection of Kalina's suspension, you can see hydraulic shock absorber struts, which are attached to the steering knuckle in the lower part, being the basis of the entire structure of the unit. The bolt located in the upper part of the steering knuckle allows you to adjust the camber element.

In the assembly, the upper part passes through a hole that is located in the existing bracket. The body part is equipped with a mudguard, to which the top of the rack is fixed using three nuts. Due to the existing elasticity of this unit, high-frequency vibration is excellently damped. In this case, a characteristic rocking occurs during the working stroke.

The front suspension of the Lada Kalina is telescopic and has complete independence.

Kalina's suspension, which is characterized by the presence of conical or coil springs, ensures a particularly smooth ride due to the presence of a stabilizer. This allows you not to disrupt and lateral stability auto. This function is also performed by levers that relate to transverse braces. The bearing for turning the strut must allow the wheels to turn.

Design characteristics

Important technical specifications front suspension of Kalina - the presence of shock absorber elements in the strut. In car design lower arm And rounded fist in a pair they are fastened simultaneously with the cross member related to the front suspension, which is carried out in the presence of a ball joint. Similarly, due to silent blocks, docking occurs brake pads with pendant.

To adjust the angle of the steering axis, the suspension uses washers that are located in the connection formed by the lever and the brace. The angular contact bearing can be fixed to the wheel drive using a nut. When repairing Kalina's front suspension, it is imperative to take into account the extent to which the process of adjusting components and structural parts is possible.

Lada Kalina hubs are characterized by the presence of fastening nuts, which are interchangeable. They can only have right-hand threads. The presence of a rod, which is a stabilizer, ensures the stability of the transverse, being responsible for it. Its knee, which has rubber hinges, must be secured to the suspension when using silent blocks with racks. Fastening the torsion bar part to the body is ensured by the presence of brackets.

It must be taken into account that the design of the suspension sometimes requires the driver to carry out certain measures that are aimed at strengthening the elements of the strut supports (cups). This allows you to increase your mileage without worrying about suspension chatter.

Improved suspension scheme

Kalina is equipped with SSAZ suspension. At the same time, installation of SS20 or KAYABA models on cars is associated with their best characteristics, while the first guarantees silent operation, which is combined with high reliability.

Causes of creaking and knocking car suspension

The front suspension consists of: 1 - fastening nut top support racks; 2 - bolt; 3 — upper support of the front suspension strut; 4 — bearing of the upper support of the strut; 5 — upper insulating gasket of the spring; 6 — front suspension spring; 7 — protective casing; 8 — telescopic stand assembly; 9, 10 — nuts securing the strut to the steering knuckle; 11 — bolt with eccentric; 12 - bolt; 13 — steering knuckle; 14 — drive shaft front wheel; 15 — stabilizer bar; 16 - stretching; 17 — lever; 18 - spherical bearing; 19 — hub; 20 — hub fastening nut; 21 — brake disk; 22 — front suspension compression buffer; 23 — upper spring cup; 24 — compression stroke limiter of the upper strut support; 25 — travel limiter of the upper strut support; 26 — stabilizer strut mounting nut; N - reference size

Eliminate various malfunctions problems that occur in the front suspension of a Lada Kalina car are possible if their cause is known. If there are faulty front suspension struts that can knock, they should be replaced. In some cases it is possible to repair them.

If during the diagnostics it was revealed that the bolts that secure the stabilizer bar that provides lateral stability to the car body, then they need to be tightened. Worn rubber or rod pads are replaced.

If the fastening of the upper support of the Lada Kalina suspension strut is loose, then it is necessary to tighten the nuts securing this unit. If the front suspension exhibits destruction of the rubber support of the strut, then it must be replaced. If the rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) are worn out, new ones should be installed.

The presence of a malfunction in the stabilizer bar struts requires replacement. If the front suspension spring settles and the front suspension spring breaks, it should be replaced. If the compression stroke buffer is destroyed, it is dismantled and a new one is installed. If there is increased wheel imbalance, you should contact a tire repair shop so that specialists can eliminate the identified malfunction.

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Owners often complain about the chirping of “grasshoppers” somewhere in the area of ​​the steering column, but some find it difficult to find the culprit, while others are too lazy. I'll try to help both. Lowering steering column to the bottom position, unscrew the two screws securing the instrument panel and remove it (don’t be confused by the slight resistance of the two metal latches on the bottom corners). Now you need to remove the four screws and remove the upper casing of the steering shaft. Your eyes will see the white block of the wiring harness extending from the LCD display of the instrument cluster. Often this block touches the casing, which is what makes the noise while moving! The standard plastic harness holder does not help with this. I put a piece of rubber hose on the block, cut lengthwise, but you can use foam rubber or other suitable material.

But somewhere another source of rattling was hiding, and of a lower tone. After listening, I realized that it was the lower trim casing “talking” when it was disturbed by the steering column adjustment lever. I got rid of the annoying sound quite easily: I lowered the lever and bent it a little.

The doors of Kalina cars can rattle quite loudly - any play in the hinges is heard as a knock on bumps. On the Kalina, the hinge axis is removable and threaded into the body. If the tightening becomes loose, the knot begins to tap harder and harder. Let's tighten the axle - you will need a TORX T-40 head. But it happens that the tightening of the axle weakens again. Then we unscrew it completely (an assistant supports the door), clean the threads and, after applying adhesive-fixer, screw it into place. As a rule, this will last for a long time, but we will still make a paint mark on the axis of each hinge and the body. Such a beacon will allow you to keep an eye on the condition of the loop in the future, without bringing things to the point of knocking.

I’ll end the story with advice for those who are just planning to buy a Kalina. If I adjust the front seat to suit myself (my height is 174 cm), then it is impossible to unfold the rear seat to carry cargo. Adjustment range front seat 168 mm, and the raised rear airbag eats up a good 90 mm. If you have to transport cargo, it is better to remove the pillows in advance and leave them at home (in the garage) or reserve a place for them in the cabin.

After driving a VAZ-1118 for some time, many owners of this car noticed that the Kalina gearbox lever was rattling. Moreover, this rattling sound resembles the sound that was present in earlier cars of this plant (from VAZ-2108 to VAZ-2110). The point is that constructive management manual transmission transmissions are made according to one type.

Driving a car when the interior is noisy is not very pleasant. Therefore, it is better to get rid of this problem, since the experience of many drivers shows that rattling does not go away on its own. On the contrary, as the mileage increases, it becomes increasingly louder. Normal driving turns into real torture for people sitting in Kalina, causing special discomfort.

The main cause of this problem is an imperfectly executed system for attaching the gearbox lever to the linkage. The car owner can take two ways to correct the situation: fix the problem yourself or have the car repaired at a service station.

How can you eliminate rattling?

In the place where the gearshift lever and the transmission control rod connect, there is a small gap (play). This is what causes the rattling. At the manufacturing plant it was reinforced with special damper bushings to dampen vibration. This is exactly what happens. But over time, the bushings wear out, their lubricants dry out, so noise begins in Kalina.

There are several options to overcome this shortcoming. Here is one of the most common methods. You can eliminate gearbox lever rattling yourself without spending a lot of time. The tools you will need are a wrench (13 mm), pliers and a sharpener. Repairs are carried out in accordance with the following points:

  1. Remove the cover from the gearshift lever and lift it. Unscrew the fastening nut, which is tightened very tightly (it is protected from unscrewing). Removal must be done carefully.
  2. Remove the bolt. Remove the bushing and washers.
  3. After this, a technological gap becomes visible, which is the cause of vibration. This is the connection in Kalina that causes the rattling noise.
  4. It is necessary to ensure that the gap is minimal. For this it is necessary metal sleeve carefully sharpen it a little, about 1 mm. It is this that prevents the washers from pressing closer together. Don't overdo it or the shift lever will become very tight.
  5. Reassemble the entire structure in reverse order. Start the car, drive, shifting the gearbox to different gears, thereby checking how correctly the repair was carried out.

If grinding was not enough, then you can disassemble everything and sharpen the sleeve a little more. It's better to not sharpen enough the first time than to sharpen too much.

Fixing a breakdown with an aluminum can?

Second of possible ways eliminating rattling begins like the first. The Lada Kalina gearbox is disassembled: the cover is removed, the nut is unscrewed. Then you need to eliminate the play between the bushings and the gearbox lever (they are glued together using sealant). You need to remember how to remove all the components so that you can assemble everything later without any problems.

The next step is to cut a strip from any aluminum can (from some kind of drink). Wrap the sleeve with this strip, making sure that the edges of the strip and the sleeve meet. Elimination of axial clearance is done as follows: cut a washer from the same can and insert it between the bushing, which was glued to the sealant, and the ring. Lubricate everything special lubricant and assemble into the original structure that was on Kalina before disassembly.

Coat the cut strip and washer with the same lubricant. Put everything together and tighten the nut. At the same time, do not make such efforts that they could break the thread. If you have a locknut on hand, use it. This will help avoid unscrewing due to possible vibration. The renovation can be considered complete.

The bushing with the foil strip fits into place without any gaps, but there is no interference either. If everything is done correctly, then the gearshift lever should move the same way as it did before the procedure, that is, shifting gears in Kalina should not become harder. The final stage can be to check all the actions taken. Start the car, drive, shifting between first or second gear, then check the others.

After testing the car a little, we can draw conclusions: is it noisy in the cabin or not? If everything is done correctly, then the noise is eliminated.

I decided to update an existing article that was written more than a year ago. In that case, the rattling of the gearbox lever was not particularly strong and was eliminated quite simply, which will be written about at the very bottom.

In the meantime, I want to give a short instruction on how to eliminate lever rattling on Kalina. For this I needed the following accessories:

  • Open-end wrench or socket wrench 13
  • Pliers
  • Electric sharpener

Why does the gearshift lever rattle on Kalina?

The main reason for this problem lies in the very design of the attachment of the lever to the rod. To put it mildly, it is not executed perfectly, but it can be corrected minimal costs and in just a few minutes.

So, first you need to lift up the lever casing, and then unscrew the fastening nut, which is already shown in the photo below almost completed:

When the bolt is removed, we also remove all the washers and the metal sleeve. And this whole damn thing looks like this in parts:

So, the reason for the chatter is that when connecting this entire structure, there is a problem between the parts. small gap, which is the source of strong vibration.

To achieve a smaller gap, it is necessary to slightly grind off the metal bushing, which prevents these washers from being compressed more tightly. I would like to warn you that you need to grind very carefully and very little, literally 1 mm. If you overdo it, then the lever will move with very great effort.

As a result, after connecting the bushing with washers into a single structure, as was shown first, we get a picture when this gap has decreased:

I messed up a little and sanded a little more than necessary (which I warned about above). As a result, when the fastening nut is tightly tightened, the lever moves tightly when switching. But I loosened this nut a little, literally half a turn - it shouldn’t come off!

When everything was done, I started the car and gave good speed, and there were no sounds from the lever. But to be sure, I decided to take a ride. I accelerated to about 70 km/h in third gear and left the gas pedal. Previously, in this situation, the rattling was simply terrible, and the only salvation from this was a hand on the lever! Now there is not a single hint of extraneous sounds or vibration.

Anyone who has not yet eliminated a similar defect on their Kalina can use this advice, just grind the bushing down minimally. It’s better to improve it a second time than to screw it up the first time!

Below is material from an old article that talks about a similar problem, but it is easily solvable and is a thing of the past!

Many owners of the Lada Kalina very often have the following problem: when accelerating, as well as when braking the engine, the gear lever begins to rattle. Similar problem It also happened to my Kalina after about 15,000 km of operation.

At first, these extraneous sounds did not irritate me much, but every day the rattling of the gearbox lever became stronger, and to be honest, it’s not very pleasant to listen to it every day. I decided to tackle this issue. So, eliminating the cause can occur in different ways, depending on the complexity of the problem.

Fortunately, in my case it was enough to pry and remove the upper cover of the lever, on which the gearbox diagram is extruded. It is better to pry off this cover with a thin screwdriver so as not to damage plastic parts. After we managed to remove it, we wrap its inner circle with a thin strip of electrical tape and insert it back. After this, this lid fits much tighter and does not rattle.

Of course, there are other sources extraneous sounds, but for me everything worked out as simply and quickly as possible. The picture above shows exactly what needs to be wrapped with electrical tape.