The rattle that appeared during the operation of the washing machine on full speed, water leakage at the bottom of the machine may indicate the need to replace the bearings. Take off this important detail in washing machine It will be difficult for a beginner, because some skill is required. To begin with, it is worth theoretically studying this process, and only then put everything into practice, evaluating your capabilities.

Preparing tools for work

To remove the bearing from the washing machine drum, special special tools will not be required, except for the puller, which carefully picks up the bearing race and removes it from the shaft. In general, it is enough to have a set of simple tools that most men have in the household. Depending on the specific model and brand of the machine, you may need:

Do not rush to purchase a puller, make sure that the bearing does not require replacement, otherwise it is not scary if you damage its holder with a hammer. If you cannot do without a puller, purchase a universal puller that fits under different sizes bearings, it will be useful to you in the future.

We take out the tank from the car: instructions

Work on the installation of the tank and drum begins with the de-energization of the machine, and do not forget to close the water supply valve to the machine. To pull out the drum, you need to disassemble the body of the washing machine. For this you need:

For your information! A lubricant, such as WD-40, is used to more effectively loosen rusted bolts.

Getting the tank out of the car is not so easy, we tried to list the main steps in this matter. The extraction of the tank and drum is described in more detail in the article.

Removing the bearing

Having pulled the tank with the drum out, we proceed to disassemble it and directly remove the bearings. If grease has leaked onto the drum cover, this confirms the need to replace the seals and bearings. So, the tank consists of two interconnected parts. The connection can be glued or bolted. The adhesive joint must be carefully cut. It is easier in this regard to connect with bolts. When the tank is disassembled into two parts, perform the following steps:

The bearing puller allows you to remove it quickly enough without damaging its cage. This may be required in cases where the bearing is intact, but the shaft on which it sits is damaged. The shape of the puller can be different, especially since there are a huge number of them on sale. To remove the bearing from the drum of the machine, a puller is needed, the legs of which have a shape that, when the bearing is pulled, would exert a load only on the inner race of the bearing, the load on the outer race should be minimal.

Usually, the small bearing is removed first, then the large one. Oil seals are removed in front of the bearings, it is reasonable to change them along with them. That's all, the bearings are removed, now you can install new components and assemble the car in reverse order. When installing new seals and bearings, be sure to lubricate them to avoid water ingress. In addition, lubrication will reduce friction between machine parts, which will extend its service life.

Note! By purchasing new bearing, look at its exact markings, which are applied to the inner clip. So you buy a bearing similar to the old one.

Is it worth changing the bearings?

When the first signs of bearing failure appear, you should immediately think about repairing the machine. Continued use may result in more serious breakdowns, for example, deformation of the cross, the replacement of which will cost much more. If the failure of the bearings leads to water leakage, then the heating element may burn out and the electronics system in this case will have to say goodbye to the machine forever.

When a bearing breaks, you should not immediately panic and think about spending big on new technology. Even repairs at a service center will cost no more than 2,000 rubles, and if you do it yourself, it is several times cheaper. A similar detail, along with oil seals on washing machines, breaks down quite often. Some experts say they should be replaced every 5 years or at least lubricated.

So, if the removal process was not entirely clear, watch the video on how to replace the bearing in washing machine.

When extraneous noise when operating the machine maximum speed or the appearance of slight water leaks from below, it is necessary to check the bearings. Replacing this element requires the dismantling of almost the entire household appliance. How to remove the bearing from the washing machine drum? At first, it is better to theoretically study the whole process by watching a few videos on YouTube, and then proceed with the disassembly.

The tool kit for dismantling the washing machine does not depend on its model, you will need:

• two screwdrivers (under the slots and crosswise);
• pliers or round nose pliers;
• open-end wrenches;
• set of heads;
• star key 17x19;
• rubber mallet and copper-plated hammer;
• steel drift or long hairpin;
• sealant, WD-40 lubricant;
• special puller.

The last tool in the list is necessary to remove the case without damage. bearings. It is used when lubricating the latter, when special care is needed.

Advice! Buy a puller universal type- it is suitable for all types of bearings used in household appliances.

After picking up the tool, disconnect the machine from the mains and install it in such a way that there is good approach This will make disassembly easier for you.

We disassemble the tank

AT different models and brands of washing machines, disassembly is done in different ways, but we omit all the nuances. Detailed instructions can be obtained from videos. So, the tank has been dismantled - now the task is to pull it out of it drum to get to the immediate location of the bearings.

In the case when it consists of two halves, it is already easier: just unscrew the fixing screws or bolts, remove the latches. But some manufacturers save on fasteners, gluing together both halves with glue of a special composition - in this case, you will have to pick up a hacksaw.

Dismantling technology

After carrying out all the operations to separate the tank into two halves, we proceed to replace the bearing, following these recommendations:

1. First you need to unscrew the pulley mounting bolt with an asterisk, some craftsmen use a hammer and a chisel.
2. Shaking from side to side, remove pulley housing to get to the location of the parts that need to be replaced.
3. Using a rubber mallet, knock out shaft on drum to disconnect the tank.
4. With the help of a puller, you must first remove small bearing and then big.

At the time, it must be remembered that the puller's paws should exert pressure on the inner race, and only a minimal load on the external load.

If the replaced bearing goes to recycling, then you can not take special care: just knock it out with a hairpin and a copper hammer.

After that, grease internal surfaces where the bearings were planted grease WD-40 or equivalent, wipe them with a clean cloth, removing all dirt. The new kit should be ready, you will learn how to install it from the attached video:

Why a replacement is needed

Upon detection incorrect operation bearing assembly requires them urgent replacement, because delay is fraught with the following rather unpleasant consequences:

1. The hull is falling apart- the outer ring remains in the tank, and the inner one on the drum shaft.
2. The bearing ring can be removed from the tank only with the help of a specially sharpened tool; you cannot do without a specialist here - there is a high probability tank damage, followed by its replacement.
3. When there is a breakage of the ring where the stuffing box is located, or the wear of the shaft as a result of the beating of the bearing housing is too great, you will have to replace the cross or the whole drum.

Do not over tighten with the replacement of bearings. You can not do it yourself - call the master; if you procrastinate, repairing the washing machine will cost you much more.

Briefly about prices

When you realize that changing bearings is inevitable, you should not despair, even if you are not able to do it yourself. AT service companies such repairs will not cost you so much:

• for front-loading machines - 1-2 thousand rubles;
• for vertical - 1500 rubles;
• replacement in the forecastle - from 2 thousand rubles.

Prices by region may differ, but not by much, the exact prices can be found in the service centers of your city.

If bearing failure results in water leakage, then the heating element may burn out, then the cost of repairs increases. Worst case - the electronics system will burn out, then the purchase of a new machine is inevitable, the old one will fit only for disassembly for spare parts.

Has your washing machine begun to buzz, make noise and make an incomprehensible rattle? In addition, with each new wash cycle unpleasant sounds started to intensify? Do not be sad, because the matter is most likely the wear of one small part - the bearing. In order for your machine to continue to function normally, and the drum does not start to hang out, the bearing in the washing machine needs to be replaced. Although this task is very troublesome, it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Change the bearing in the washer

Causes of bearing failure

The bearing may fail due to:

• prolonged use of the washing device (since the part is made of rubber, over time it simply wears out);
• moisture ingress due to unit leakage (as you know, water provokes the development of corrosion, which, in turn, “eats” the bearing);
• presence (since there is no belt, there is a strong load on the bearings, as a result, they wear out quickly).

If the replacement of the bearing in the washing machine is not carried out on time, the drum will begin to shake due to the lack of a link. Other components of the washing machine may become unusable, and in a couple of months it will be easier to buy a new device than to repair it.

As a rule, when changing a bearing, they take up the installation of a new oil seal.

Preparatory stage

To get to the bearing, you have to disassemble the washing machine. To do this, prepare the following tools:

Tools for replacing bearings and disassembling the machine

• hammer;
• pliers;
• screwdrivers (cross, slotted);
• metal rod;
• a set of open-end wrenches;
• sealant;
• bearing anti-corrosion grease (in last resort you can use lithol);
• and most importantly - 2 bearings and an oil seal, which you can easily purchase at any service center or specialized store.

To select suitable bearings and an oil seal, you must first disassemble the washer. When you get to the details, remember their number and tell it to the seller. There is another way to select - by brand of washing machine. Be sure to purchase original spare parts designed specifically for a specific model.

bearings in washing machine

If you are disassembling a washing machine for the first time, arm yourself with a camera to record each step. This will allow you to quickly and correctly assemble all the components after completing the installation of the parts.

Replacing a bearing in a washing machine: disassembling the unit

Removing the Top Cover

To do this, you will need to unscrew the screws on the back of the device. After that, move the upper structure back a little and lift it up. As you can see, nothing complicated!

Removing the top cover

Elimination of the top and bottom panel

Before removing the top dashboard remove the powder tray by pressing the button (pull it out while pressing the button).

Removing the powder container

To remove the panel itself, unscrew the screws. In different models, they are located in different ways. We can say with confidence that one of them will be located where you just pulled out the powder receiver, the other - on the right side of the washer. After unscrewing all the screws, remove the upper structure.

Removing the top panel

Now you see the control board, which is attached to the panel with wires. Remove the connector chips from each socket to finally remove the cover.

Professional Advice: When removing chips from nests, mark them with a marker. This must be done in order to know where and which wire to connect when reassembling.

If you find it difficult to disconnect the wires, you can leave the panel hanging down. True, we want to warn you: replacing the bearing in the washing machine will not be very convenient, and the wires can be accidentally damaged.

Removing the control board

To remove the bottom panel, press the latches-holders with a screwdriver or some flat object. Agree, it's very simple!

We are engaged in a cuff

The cuff is an elastic band, which is dressed on the tank with one part, and on the front panel with the other. This device just prevents us from eliminating the front damper. The cuff is fastened with a clamp, which we will need to remove.

You should go around the perimeter of the gum with your hand and determine by touch where the spring is located. You can also carefully examine the surface of the cuff and find it visually. Using a flat screwdriver, pry the mechanism and remove the rubber band along with the clamp.

We remove the cuff

Removing the front panel

Before this operation, close the hatch of the washer. Locate the bottom and top of the front of the screws that attach the damper. Unscrew the screws - now the panel hangs only on the hook. Carefully remove the panel, because it is attached to another part of the device with a wire.

After removing this panel, you need to remove the chip, which is located between the wire and the hatch for loading laundry.

Removing the front panel of the washing machine

Removes parts located near the tank

We have already removed the control panel, now we remove the box for receiving the powder together with the top panel. To do this, unscrew the bolts that hold the valve for the bay. They are located at the back of the unit. Now let's get to the screws. After eliminating them, we disconnect the pipes and wires - you can safely remove the panel and set it aside.

We disconnect the drain pipe and the tank by unscrewing the clamp. It happens that water can linger in the pipe. Therefore, prepare a rag or a small container.

Now we are engaged in disconnecting the wires leading to the heating element. Remember, depending on the model of the washer, they can be located both in front and behind. It is possible to attach the wiring to the tank with a wire (we also unwind it). Do not forget to disconnect the wires from the engine, because in our case we will get it too.

Wires coming from the heating element

• unscrew the counterweights that are located at the bottom and top of the tank;
• disconnect the pipe from the sensor that fixes the water level;
• unscrew the shock absorbers by unscrewing the bolts (use a wrench and a head with an extension).

After such manipulations, your tank will be held only by springs. With one hand, lift the unit from the inside, and with the other, disconnect the assembly from the springs. The tank is removed together with the engine (if the design of the device contains a belt, then remove it).

Removing the washing machine tank

Unscrew the motor and shock absorbers that hang on the tank.

Tank disassembly

It should be divided into 2 halves. Since these parts of the device are fastened with latches or bolts, disengage or unscrew them. It is also recommended to clean the unit from debris that has accumulated there during long-term operation.

Dismantling the washing machine tank

If you have a washing machine without a direct drive, then detaching the drum from the back is possible only when you remove the pulley. To do this, use a wrench. By unscrewing the bolt that fixes the pulley on the drum axis, you can remove the structure. Be sure to screw the unscrewed bolt all the way into the shaft so that the shaft is not damaged when the drum is removed.

Removing the pulley from the washer

We take a hammer and knock it on the shaft until it loosens. If the applied efforts are not enough, we unscrew the bolt and replace it with another one (one that is not a pity). When the shaft reaches the bolt head, remove the bolt and pull out the drum.

Drum Inspection

See what the bushing and shaft look like on the drum. If they are worn out, replace them later. To check the shaft for integrity, wipe it thoroughly with a cloth. Determine if there is production on it.

Inspect the bushing and drum shaft for wear and dirt

Try on your new bearings. If there is a backlash, you need to without fail replace the cross.

Inspect the shaft sleeve for the stuffing box. It should not be heavily worked out and have transverse furrows. If a strong development is recorded, the oil seal will begin to let water through, which means that the recently changed bearing will soon become unusable.

As you guessed, the bearings are located in the rear wall of the drum. To pull them out, you must first remove the gland.

Knock out the bearings. We guide the metal rod and hit it with a hammer. Move the tool to different sides of the bearing. The small bearing is located inside the tank, and the larger one is outside.

We knock out the bearing

Clean up seat your new bearing - it should sparkle with cleanliness.

We hammer in new bearings (first small, then large). Again we use a metal rod, rearranging it cross by cross. As soon as the bearing "sits" normally, you will hear a louder percussive sound. Install the other bearing in the same way.

Putting the bearing in place

Stuff the oil seal, pre-treating it with waterproof grease.

Collect all the insides, assemblies and assemblies back.

Thus, replacing a bearing in a washing machine is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. You need to be extremely careful when disassembling the unit, because some of its components are quite fragile and can be damaged with the slightest effort. If you are afraid to take risks, then seek help from professional craftsmen - replacing the bearing in a washing machine in this case will cost you 20-30% of the cost of the device.

The normal operation of the washing machine is accompanied by a monotonous hum when the drum rotates, creating its own unique melody. If suddenly appeared extraneous sounds, in the form of a whistle, rumble and other incomprehensible noise - it is worth checking the bearings.

Open the door. There is a gap between the drum and the tank. If the drum has big backlash, it is possible that the drum bearings or the stuffing box seal are destroyed. Find out in advance original numbers set of drum bearings, stuffing box seal, tank gasket. Call to service center or specialist shop, specify the machine model.

Disassembly of the washing machine components

For self repair need minimum set tool:

Adhesive tape, a set of heads, screwdrivers, a multimeter, copper wire with insulation, a set of nylon clamps. Perhaps in the process of work, something else will be needed.

• Turn off the power supply, disconnect the inlet and drain hoses. Remove the top panel, unscrew the two 6mm screws on the back of the machine and remove the cover. Then pull out the dispenser drawer detergents press the latch and remove the dispenser to the side.
• Then pull out the detergent dispenser drawer, press the latch and put the dispenser aside. Remove the control panel. It is attached with 3 screws. Move to the side and take a photo. Attach the panel with adhesive tape to the top of the machine so as not to disconnect the electronics. Attention! Lay out the removed parts in a certain order, it is advisable to shoot the repair process on a phone or camera. Suitable for assembly.
• Next, remove the lower decorative panel and disconnect the drain hose. Then unscrew the screws of the front panel, 2-top and 2-bottom, open the door and remove the clamping wire clamp from the door cuff, remove the cuff and unscrew the two screws, see photo.
• Now slightly lift and remove the front panel, set aside.
• Remove the clamp from the detergent drawer and attach the drawer to the top of the machine. 2 more hoses fit to it, but they do not interfere.
• Then turn out the counterweight screws with a 13 mm head, usually consist of 2 parts and set them aside. See photo.

• Access to the wiring harness of the electric heater heat panel - heating element will open. Let's sketch the position of the connectors or take a picture, release the harness. Unscrew the fixing nut of the heating element, but not completely, slightly press the screw and pull out the heating element.
• Disconnect the hose and wiring harness from the tank, drain the remaining water from the hose, go to back screen washing machine.
• We remove the screen, the engine opens, we remove the belt from the pulley.
• Before removing the engine, we sketch or photograph the engine connector block, remove the engine, and then the tank itself, which is held on the frame of the car from above on the springs and below on the shock absorbers. We release the lower ones, and then remove the tank along with the drum. Be careful, maybe something else is not disconnected! Free.
• Disconnect the door cuff (this is a kind of adapter module, almost spaceship!). The cuff is pressed against the drum with a spring clamp, pry it off, but do not tear the cuff, remove and turn the drum over so that it is convenient to remove the pulley.
• unscrew the bolt on the pulley shaft with a 13 mm head, remove the pulley, screw the bolt back in, but not completely, and then hit the screw head with a rubber hammer, the shaft will move down. Put something soft inside so as not to damage the drum plastic if the shaft falls.

Most models of machines have a detachable tank, which is connected to studs and plastic clips. If there is a one-piece tank, then it is separated by sawing, which of course will complicate the work. In this case, order this unit as an assembly.

1. Separate the halves of the tank. Release the drum.
2. Place the rear half of the tank on the wooden pads and knock out the outermost small bearing with a chisel.
3. Turn this half of the tank over and knock out the large (front) bearing. Be careful not to damage the bearing seats!
4. After knocking out the bearings, clean the drum and tank. Insert the new bearings into their original seat and gently tap the bearing into the seat on the outer side of the cage (in the direction of the arrow). Strike in a circle evenly and without distortion.
5. Place a new oil seal on top and flip the tank over to install the outer bearing.

Lubricate the seat and install the bearing from the outside by gently tapping the outer edge of the race.

1. Now reassemble in reverse order. Make sure the drum shaft is intact. There are models with a cross, which can be removed and replaced along with the shaft. But sometimes they completely change the drum assembly with the shaft.

When assembling the tank, check the seal between the halves of the tank, you may have to install a new one. The place indicated by the arrow, coat with sealant around the entire circumference. See photo.

During the assembly process, all hose connections are checked for leaks so that the machine does not have to be disassembled again. Check the connector pins with a multimeter. Without sufficient experience and skill, it is difficult to cope with such repairs, but knowing the process will not prevent you from making a call and keeping up the conversation about the repair.

Have you noticed that the washing machine hums and vibrates a lot during operation? Perhaps the reason lies in the worn drum bearings.

The operation of the bearings is designed for a period of 5 to 10 years. Parts do not always reach this deadline and break earlier. In the article, you will learn why this happens and how to pull the bearing out of the washing machine body for replacement.

The bearing fixes the position of the shaft, ensuring its uniform rotation. These small parts take all the load.

If you are wondering how to get the bearing out of the washing machine, then you suspect that it has become unusable. The reason for this could be a damaged gland, which, having lost its tightness, began to let water through. The grease was washed out, which led to corrosion and abrasion of the bearing.

Most users download CMAs on a "can fit" basis. This is wrong, because over time, overloading leads to wear of parts, including bearings. You can notice this by the characteristic rattle. It can be heard when spinning or when scrolling the drum by hand.

Another sign of a bearing problem is a leak. If you find that water is accumulating under the bottom of the washer, it's time to check.

Untimely replacement can lead to damage to the tank by the drum, wear of the cross and shaft. And it's already threatening overhaul, at which you need to install new tank and .

First you need to drain the remaining water from the washer, as you will need to completely disassemble it. Proceed in sequence:

• De-energize the CM by removing the plug from the socket.
• After turning off all communications and shutting off the water supply, drain its remnants from the intake hose.

• Do the same with drain filter. It is located under the front panel, behind a small hatch or plinth panel. Open the panel by opening the latches with a screwdriver, unscrew the filter, drain the water.

Move the machine away from the wall as far as possible. Now prepare the tool for removing the bearings of the washing machine. You will need:

• a set of slotted and cross-head screwdrivers, possibly hexagonal;
• a set of wrenches and socket wrenches;
• pliers;
• puller;
• hammer and chisel;
• bolt;
• sealant;
• hacksaw for metal.

Before purchasing a puller, make sure the bearing needs to be replaced. Then get a universal puller suitable for dismantling elements of any size.

Buy new part. It could be wheel bearing or any other that suits your model. You can find out the exact numbers and markings after you remove the bearing from the washing machine.

Self disassembly

Having completed the preparation, you can begin to disassemble the SMA. Whatever brand your car is, the principle of repair remains the same.

In some washing machines, in order to pull out the tank, it is not necessary to remove the front panel. But we will describe the most complex disassembly:

• Use a Phillips or Hex screwdriver to unscrew the two screws on the back top cover. Slide it forward and remove it from the case.

• Move to the front. It is necessary to pull out the dispenser tray, which serves to fill the powder. Press the latch in the center and pull the tray towards you at the same time.
• Loosen the screws securing the control panel.
• Using a flathead screwdriver, pry out the plastic latches.
• Without unfastening the wiring from the control unit, place the panel on top of the case. If you still decide to put it aside, first take a picture of the location of the connectors, and then disconnect.
• Open the hatch door. Bend the edge of the sealing rubber - there is a clamp behind it. Pry it off with a screwdriver and pull it out of place.

• Unscrew the two bolts securing the UBL (lock) of the hatch. Running your hand behind the body, disconnect the wiring of the lock. Tuck the cuff inside the tank.
• Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the front panel, remove it.

Now you need to eliminate everything that will prevent you from removing the tank. If your model has a heater in the front, disconnect its wiring. Mark the location of the wires with a marker or take a picture.

Also remove the front counterweights of the tank by unscrewing the bolts.

To remove the back panel, unscrew the screws around the perimeter. Set the panel aside. You have access to the details.

• Remove the drive belt first. It's easy: with one hand, pull the belt towards you, with the other, scroll the pulley.

• Secure the drum pulley wheel with a piece of wood to keep it from moving. Loosen the central bolt. Gently pulling the pulley towards you, remove it from the shaft.

• Unfasten the wiring from the electric motor and the heating element, if it is located at the back.
• Unscrew the bolts holding the motor, pull it out of the housing.

Loosen the clamp on the drain pipe and disconnect it from the tank.

It remains to unscrew the shock absorber bolts, which may be located at the very bottom of the case.

Remove the top counterweight by unscrewing the bolts.

Now you need to remove the powder receiver cuvette. Lift it up and disconnect the pipe by loosening the clamp with pliers. Remove the bolts securing the filler valve to the CMA body. Disconnect wires from it. Remove the cuvette together with the valve.

Disconnect the pressure switch hose attached to the tank. If nothing else interferes, lift the tank off the hooks and pull it out through the front or top of the CM housing.

Before you pull the bearing out of the hub, you need to get the drum.

If you have a collapsible tank, simply unscrew the screws around the perimeter and remove the top.

If the tank is soldered, you will have to cut it. For this:

1. Mark places for future self-tapping screws around the perimeter. Make holes for them, so you can additionally fasten the halves of the tank.
2. With the tank on its side, start cutting from the part that is comfortable for you.

After hitting the bushing several times with a hammer, push the drum out of the tank part.

Now you will learn how to remove the bearing from the washing machine drum shaft without a puller:

• Install a chisel on the outer race.
• Tapping on it with a hammer, try to get the bearing.
• If it doesn't pop out, spray it with WD-40 and wait a while.

In order to somehow knock out or remove the inner race of the bearing of the washing machine, you can apply the same method, only directed not at the outer, but at the inner ring of the part. This method can be used if the part cannot be removed with a conventional puller.

However, as a result, another question arises: how to pull out the remaining outer race of the bearing? You can also knock it out or try to pry it off with a puller.

After dismantling, clean the seat - you've done the job. If the part was defective, install a new one in place. Lubricate the sawn drum with sealant around the edges and connect the two parts. Fasten it with screws.

Now you know how to knock out and remove the bearing from the washing machine drum - you can put this knowledge into practice. Video on the topic will help you: