Do I need to lubricate the rotor of the electric motor. How are electric motors serviced? The best solution for electric motor maintenance

Proper maintenance of an electric motor, including lubrication of components, is the key to a longer operation of expensive equipment. Before lubricating the electric motor, you should familiarize yourself with the requirements for materials and the procedure for performing work.

Periodic revision of the state of the lubricant allows you to determine the moment when it is necessary to replace it. This is indicated by the following signs:

  • loss of engine speed (in the absence of visible reasons);
  • in the working area of ​​the bearing, the temperature rises to the point that the part begins to melt.

How to lubricate an electric motor: selection of lubricants

Modern lubricants are characterized by such characteristics as:

  • high impact resistance negative factors(oxidative reactions, temperature changes, corrosion processes, etc.);
  • water resistance.

It is important to control the composition of the selected product so that it does not contain resins or acids.

Plain bearings use liquid oil. Rolling bearings are filled with a non-flowing plastic composition. Special substances and technologies are also provided for the lubrication of the brushes and commutator. However, bushings (bearings) remain the main object when replacing lubricants. This is why it is especially important to understand how to properly lubricate motor bearings, depending on their type.

How to lubricate motor bearings - sequence of actions

The first stage is cleaning, that is, removing the remnants of used grease. To do this, bearings must:

  • rinse using pure gasoline or kerosene liquid;
  • dry with air.

The next step is the actual application. lubricants: filling, in the case of sleeves, or putting a dense lubricant in rolling bearings. Before pouring liquid oil it is necessary to install the washed bearing back into the assembly. The main recommendations for applying grease lubricants are as follows:

  • laying is carried out immediately after blowing the knot;
  • a special spatula made of wood or metal serves as a laying tool;
  • the bearing does not need to be "hammered" lubricant composition, optimal amount material should fill approximately 2/3 of the chamber.

Regular relubrication of bearing assemblies ensures uninterrupted operation of the unit and significantly increases the interval until the next service repair.

The most common in all industries component equipment - electric motor. Grease for electric motor bearings- in this article we will try to help you figure out how to choose a lubricant for an electric motor, what to look for, how and with what to lubricate an electric motor in order to extend its service life.

Maintenance of electric motors is one of the mandatory items in the list of duties of mechanical services, one of the components of such maintenance is the lubrication of bearings.

Despite the fact that the service life of a bearing is made up of many factors, ranging from the quality of the bearing itself, the correctness of its correct installation and the presence or absence of environmental influences, its service life can be radically increased if timely and proper lubrication is provided.

Properly selected lubricant, depending on the type of electric motor, its operating conditions, will allow you to ensure its reliable and long-term operation. Incorrectly selected lubricant at the same time threatens at least increased consumption and an increase in maintenance costs, in the worst case, it will cause increased wear, and in the future, the destruction of the bearing. This is especially applicable to bearings operating in difficult conditions - at high temperatures, speeds and loads.

The use of lubricants makes it possible to reduce friction on the surface of the separator roller, dampens the shock load of the rolling elements on the holder and, accordingly, reduces the noise during operation of the mechanism. Also, the use of lubricants contributes to the uniform distribution of heat from the friction surfaces, they are a kind of buffer that protects the bearing from mechanical contamination (the higher the accuracy of the assembly and the higher the speed of its rotation, the more weight this factor), and also protects the metal surface from corrosion.

For correct operation bearings, it is necessary to follow the recommendations for applying and filling lubricants, putting excess lubricant into the bearing is not only uneconomical, but also leads to the fact that the lubricant removes heat worse and can increase the temperature of the bearing. Research has shown that a 10 degree increase in bearing temperature reduces bearing life by 20%.

Used to lubricate electric motors greases on various thickeners, for example, greases based on calcium soap - the simplest representative of this class of lubricants is an ordinary grease, however, greases no longer meet the requirements for modern greases and cannot provide reliable performance electric motor.

Another representative of calcium greases is a grease developed during the Soviet era - CIATIM-221.

CIATIM-221 is a lubricant based on synthetic polysiloxane fluid 132-24 thickened with calcium soap, a lubricant specially designed for use in electric motors with a rotation speed of up to 10,000 rpm.

Lithium greases - due to the structure of the thickener, greases based on lithium soaps are used in a wide temperature range.

We have developed a grease based on lithium soap Roxol MS with the addition of molybdenum disulfide - for use in electric motors at speeds up to 5000 rpm at medium and high loads. Due to the content of molybdenum disulfide in the composition, the grease has high anti-wear properties.

ROXOL MS grease can be used to replace over expensive lubricants VNIINP-242 and Molykote FB-180 temperature range from -30 to +140 degrees.

Polyurea Lubricants - Unique Lubricants in terms of their mechanical and chemical stability, as well as resistance to temperatures.

How to lubricate the oil seal / motor bushing (sliding)?

Due to the nature of the thickener, greases are ashless, i.e. do not leave deposits, form ultra-stable rheological systems (the lubricant quickly restores its structure after mechanical impact, it perfectly resists increasing loads, due to which its service life is higher than lubricants based on soap thickeners).

To meet the needs domestic consumer Roxol has developed a polyurea grease with a tetraurea thickener Roxol PU EP. The grease can be used to replace SKF, MOBIL and SHELL greases and other imported polyurea thickened greases. Ideal for difficult conditions work at high speeds, Unlike lithium greases lasts up to 10 times longer. At low temperatures(below minus 30 degrees) we recommend using lubricants based on synthetic oils- for example, Roxol PU SYNT grease - working in wide range temperatures and having excellent anti-friction properties.

The choice of lubricant for an electric motor should be made taking into account a number of factors:

  1. Engine operating mode - rotation speed, shaft load, duration of the operating cycle.
  2. Working environment conditions - air humidity, temperature, the presence of aggressive factors (chemicals, steam, dust, etc.)
  3. Assembly design and dimensions.

Bearing rotation speed required special attention the higher the speed, the lower the viscosity should be base oil on which the lubricant is based.

The load on the shaft will indicate if a high load bearing grease (with EP additives) is needed

Duration uninterrupted operation- puts forward requirements for the mechanical stability of the lubricant.

At a bearing operating temperature of 130 degrees and above, heat-resistant lubricants with a drop point of 190 degrees and above should be preferred.

Thus, the lubricant must retain consistency within operating temperatures, have high mechanical stability, not cause the effect of self-heating (i.e., the viscosity of its base oil must correspond to the operating speed), and be resistant to oxidation.

Consistent high temperature grease based mineral oil with polyurea thickener ROXOL PU EP was developed by us for use in heavy duty electric motors. off-road equipment, electric motors of pumps and fans instead of such lubricants as SKF, MOBIL XHP, SHELL GADUS, wheel bearings can also be lubricated with it.

Exhaust fan cleaning - prolonging the life of the exhaust fan

Installing a fan in the bathroom is a very good idea. Thanks to him, you can ventilate the room in a matter of minutes. Thanks to the fan installed in the exhaust duct, the draft of the hood itself is enhanced, which is useful when the humidity in the bathroom rises or after a smoke break.

However, over time, especially if people smoke in the bathroom or toilet, the exhaust fan becomes very dirty. As a result, traction weakens. In addition, over time, the lubrication in the motor bearings runs out and the fan starts to work poorly, and may even burn out. Therefore, periodically he should do prophylaxis.

If your fan starts to creak and change the speed due to wedging, do not rush to throw it away, it can still be extended. First, remove the fan. Usually it is mounted on four screws. It is connected to the power supply using a conventional two-wire terminal. It is convenient to connect the fan to the switch so that you can turn it on and off as needed.

And so the fan is very dirty, the engine wedges and overheats, so it needs to be lubricated and cleaned.


Fig.1. Fan disassembly begins with the removal of the impeller. It is fixed on the motor shaft by means of a collet clamp with a conical thread; the nut must be unscrewed clockwise.


Fig.2. After the nut is unscrewed, the fan impeller can be easily removed from the shaft.


Fig.3. Fan turn front side and disconnect the motor wires from the terminal. Otherwise, you will not be able to remove the engine.

And remove the engine, it is mounted on two screws.


Fig.4. The motor is fixed in the fan housing with two screws. To remove the engine, they must be unscrewed. When removing the engine, it must be supported. If you are disassembling a fan that has just been running, wear gloves, as engine is hot. Or let the engine cool before disassembly.

Here is the fan motor itself.


Fig.5. To lubricate the fan, apply a few drops of oil to the front and rear bearings. It is convenient to use a medical syringe with a needle. It is necessary to drip oil into the place where the shaft enters the motor housing from one side and the other.

We let him cool down. Then we clean it with a brush and lubricate it. Literally two drops are needed to lubricate the fan engine oil, do not pour a lot. One drop is needed front bearing, the second back. Next, rotate the rotor (shaft) of the engine by hand so that the lubricant is distributed. It is immediately felt that it has become much better to rotate. Now the engine will not wedge and overheat.


Fig.6. Everybody plastic parts are washed with water using detergents.

Before assembly, all parts must be well dried.

Now we assemble its fan and install it in place.


Fig.7. The fan is assembled in the reverse order.

Lubricants for electric motor bearings

First, the engine is installed, then the clamp is connected, after which the impeller is attached. The assembled fan is installed in place and connected to the power supply.

We looked at how easy it is to bring an old fan back to life. In most cases, fan failure is due to contamination and lack of lubrication in the motor bearings. By cleaning and lubricating the motor, you can regularly extend the life of the fan. The whole job takes no more than 10-15 minutes, and saves time and money that could be spent on a new bathroom or kitchen fan.

Lubricant for kitchen hood motor bearings.

Forum / Ventilation and air conditioning / Grease for kitchen hood motor bearings.

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The motor has worked on plain bearings (which is built into the hood) for 4 years and its rotor does not slip anymore. I lubricated with "synthetics" - it started to work, but it lasts for a maximum of half a month, then the same thing happens again.
Do you need some special lubricant?

If the electric motor kitchen hood are bearings closed type and it does not slip or works with noise, which means you need to change the lubricant.

How to lubricate the kitchen hood motors so that they do not squeal (solid oil, oil and lithol do not help for long)?

It is necessary to disassemble the bearing, rinse in gasoline or diesel fuel, assemble the engine and add spindle oil. If the bearing is open, grease can be used for lubrication after flushing.

The questioner mentioned that his range hood has plain bearings. These bearings need cleaning and flushing just as much as rolling bearings. In general, it is necessary to clean the entire motor and fan. I use silicone oil to lubricate the hood motor.

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§ 4. Stamps for drawing. Pressing force when drawing cylindrical products. Pull-out creases. Lubrication while drawing.

Drawing dies are used for the manufacture of products of various shapes. As a result of drawing, for example, from a round flat circle of material, a cylindrical product with a bottom can be obtained (Fig. 126, a, b). When drawing, the mass and volume of the material do not change, but only the shape of the workpiece changes. After drawing, the product has a different wall thickness. In places of transition from the bottom to the walls, the material becomes thinner.

Rice. 126. Pull dies:

a - for the first operation, b - for the second operation

To avoid the formation of wrinkles during drawing on presses of a simple (single) action, clamps are used - buffers built into dies, or pneumatic cushions. For deep drawing, double-acting presses are used, which have an external slider for pressing the material and a pad for ejecting the product.

The clamping force depends on the specific pressure, mechanical properties material being pulled out and the radius of curvature of the pulling edge of the matrix.

The pressing force when drawing cylindrical products with a bottom for the first operation is determined by the formula Q \u003d (π / 4 * q, where D is the diameter of the workpiece, mm; d 1 is the diameter of the hood, mm; r is the radius of curvature of the exhaust edge, mm; q - specific pressure for mild steel and brass, Pa (kgf / mm 2).

If a spring or a rubber buffer is used as a clamp, then a minimum pressure must be ensured at the initial moment, since the pressure increases with an increase in the drawing depth. When using an air cushion, the pressing force is almost constant, which improves the quality of the hood. Deep drawing products are made in two or more operations.

The designs of drawing dies depend on the shape of the product and the number of the drawing operation performed, the ratio of the dimensions of the product and the workpiece. The ratio of the diameter of the product to the diameter of the workpiece is called the elongation ratio, which is determined by the formulas m 1 =d 1 /D - for the first operation; m 2 =d 2 /d 1 - for the second operation.

Extraction coefficients and correction factors are given in Ch. I.

Knowing the drawing ratio, the size of the product for operations is determined by the formulas d 1 =m 1 D - for the first operation; d 2 = m 2 d 1 - for the second operation.

The elongation factor is influenced by the radius of curvature of the die and punch. The radius of curvature, depending on the thickness of the material, should be: for mild steel -10S, for brass - 5S, for aluminum - 7S.

Constriction ribs are installed on the die matrix for drawing rectangular and square products, which increase the reliability of the clamp. There is excess metal in the workpiece at the rounded corners in the places where the workpiece is pressed.

Wrinkles during drawing are formed due to large gap between the punch and the die and insufficient clamping force. When the gap is small, there may be a detachment of the bottom of the product. The established gaps between the die and the punch for drawing dies are for mild steel (1.2-:-1.4)S, brass and aluminum (1.1-:-1.2)S at the first operation. For subsequent operations, respectively (1,1-:-1,2)S.

On fig. 126 shows two different (inconsistent) stamps: for the first (a) and second (b) drawing operations.

The dies are designed for a double action press. Punch 1 is fixed on the inner slider of the press, and clamp 4 - to the outer slider. The workpiece is placed on the matrix 2. After turning on the press, the clamp 4 is first lowered, and then the punch 1. During the drawing, the clamp 4 remains stationary. The ejector 5, exerting counterpressure under the action of the air cushion, moves together with the punch 1. After drawing, the punch 1 rises first, and the clamp 4, remaining motionless, removes the product from the punch. Only after the pressure is released, the product is pushed out of the matrix by ejector 3.

The clamp for the second operation (see Fig. 126, b) has a different design: when lowered, it enters the inside of a hollow product, which is drawn to a smaller diameter. With this design, wrinkling is eliminated, thinning at the bottom of the product is reduced, as well as the drawing force.

Lubrication while drawing increases the durability of dies, reduces the coefficient of friction and the amount of effort during drawing. The lubricant must have wettability, i.e., adhere to lubricated surfaces; maintain their properties during operation and storage; not cause corrosion (rust) of stamped products and presses; be harmless to humans; easy to apply on the surface of stamped products and easy to remove from them.

With deep drawing, a mixture of spindle oil, grease and talc is used. At a shallow drawing depth, as well as when drawing spherical products, a soap solution, emulsion, etc. are used.

Grease Composition (%) for deep drawing: spindle oil 40, grease 20, talc 11, sulfur 8, alcohol 1 (sulfur is introduced in the form of crushed powder).

Lubricant composition for shallow (light) hood: green soap 20, water 80.

On Gorky Automobile Plant, for example, for a complex drawing, a lubricant of the following composition is used,%: spindle oil 52, soap naft 20, talc 18, gypsum 2.5, wood flour 5.5.

For heavy stampings(chalk lubricant, %): spindle oil 33; sulfided castor oil 1.5; fish oil 1.2; chalk 45; oleic acid 5.5; caustic soda 0.7; water 13. Soluble lubricant: liquid emulsion 37; chalk 45; soda ash 1.3; water 16.7.

Lubrication during drawing with thinning and cold extrusion of steel: copper sulfate - 4.5-5 kg; table salt - 5 kg; sulfuric acid - 7-8 l; carpentry glue - 200 g; water - 80-100 l.

Note. Glue is pre-dissolved in hot water and then dissolve the remaining components. Copper-plated blanks are stored in a hot soapy solution, from which they are fed to the hood.

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Recently, the design of electric motors with a collector has changed markedly. Replaceable brushes appeared, many engines became collapsible. Any motor needs maintenance to get good performance from it all the time. Naturally, we are not talking about cheap one-time copies like the Speed ​​400, priced at $ 6, but about more serious engines that are used in competitions.

Over time, the performance of any engine deteriorates. This is natural as it wears out. However, modern electric motors can cost quite a bit. big money. For example, the price good engine for the "modified" class (car models) can be a hundred dollars. Of course, often changing the entire engine is quite expensive and not always justified, so modelers try to extend its life.

cleaning

To keep the characteristics of the motor on high level, it is advisable to clean it after every race. The brushes and commutator are cleaned first. This can be done with a special fiberglass brush, which removes all the dirt well. To make it more convenient to rotate the rotor when cleaning the collector, you can put any gear on it from those that are at hand.

After the brushes and commutator are cleaned, the entire motor is washed with a spray to remove dust accumulated inside.

When the motor is washed, the brushes are put in place, oil is dripped onto the bushings, and the brushes are rolled in for 30 seconds from 4 cans (or from 6 cans through the speed controller, at 1/4 gas). The motor is not loaded.

Do not forget to re-clean the brushes and collector after rolling.

Brush and commutator lubrication

Yes, this is not a mistake. There is special lubricants for brushes and commutator, which can significantly improve the performance of the electric motor. Those lubricants are based on something like engine oil additives. internal combustion. So do not try to drip on the collector the oil that goes to the motor bushings.

Lubricants for brushes and commutators are sold in small containers, like butter, and cost about $5-$10. At competitions, you can’t do without such funds.

Comment. A feature of the use of such lubricants is that it is necessary to flush the engine after each race. Otherwise, next time its characteristics will not be better, but worse. This is all pretty tedious, so in normal training it might be easier to leave the motor manifold alone.

Brush replacement

During operation of the motor, the brushes will have to be changed relatively often. Exist different opinions how long brushes can be used. When it comes to sports, few people use more than half the length of the brushes. You can change the brushes before they are half worn off, but this, as mentioned above, is already a matter personal experience and beliefs.

The brush wires are usually soldered to the contacts on the back cover to reduce power loss. On relatively low power motors, such as 27-turn "stock" motors, a mechanical connection with a hold-down screw can be used.

After you have replaced the brushes, they need to be rolled in. This is done very simply:

  1. Put some oil on the front and rear hub(or bearing).
  2. Power the motor with 4 cans for 5 minutes. If you don't have a separate 4-cell battery, then power the motor with a standard 6-cell battery through the speed control at 1/4 throttle. The motor does not need to be loaded at this time.

For normal rolling, the manifold must be new or machined. Do not forget to clean the brushes and collector after rolling, then they will last much longer.

Manifold groove

by the most thin spot electric motor are commutator and brushes. The brushes wear out over time and need to be replaced. Well, the collector eventually becomes covered with soot. And if the brushes are relatively easy to replace, then to update the collector it will need to be machined on a special machine.

First, before performing this operation, you need to decide how much it is really needed. If we are talking about competitions, then the groove should be done every 2-10 races, depending on the engine, brushes, and operating conditions. So, a powerful "modified" car engine with hard brushes will require turning after 2 races. And if you have a “stock” motor, then it will roll back 10 races without a noticeable deterioration in performance. The need for a groove is determined visually, by the appearance of a noticeable soot on the collector. It's hard to describe exactly, but over time you'll learn to figure it out on your own.

For turning, you will need a special machine, which can be bought at a hobby store. Of course, you can carry out this operation on a conventional lathe, but it will still be convenient for many to “update” their engine without leaving home, right on their desktop. Manifold turning machines are made by many companies, and the price ranges from $150 to $250, depending on the manufacturer, the scope of delivery and other options. As a rule, machines differ in the cutter feed mechanisms and the cutter itself (which comes with the kit). In the first case, the more expensive the machine, the easier you can adjust the cutter feed, because cheap machines have some backlash in the cutter feed mechanisms. Well, the cutter can be made either from cermet ("carbid"), or from more complex diamond-like composites ("diamond"). The first type of cutters has a lower cutting speed and grinds faster, but costs relatively little money($10-20). Cutters with a diamond cutting edge allow you to sharpen to very high revs, have great resource, but they also cost, respectively, under $ 100.

Disassemble the motor: remove the brushes, unscrew the back cover and remove the rotor and other insides. Make sure there are no gaskets left inside.

Mount the rotor on the lathe, and don't forget to level the base of the lathe: turn on the lathe and make sure the rotor doesn't move anywhere. If this is not the case, then place the gaskets under the machine, which usually come with the kit. And don't forget to first put some oil in the places where the rotor rotates on the machine.

Turn on the machine and paint over the collector with a black marker. This will make it easy to determine if there are still untapped areas on the manifold.

Gently approach the cutter and remove the thin layer of the collector, each time returning the cutter to starting position. Put some oil on the manifold to improve the quality of the groove. In one pass, no more than 0.05 mm of the layer should be removed. Remember that the less you remove in one pass, the better the surface will be and the longer the cutter will last. The collector is machined until all traces of the marker disappear. During the last pass, the cutter should be slowly drawn to both ends several times.

Remove the rotor from the machine and be sure to remove any debris that has fallen between the parts of the commutator.

Manifold check

It often happens that cheap motors have an imperfect manifold. The manifold can also be uneven after an unsuccessful groove. It's easy to check. The motor is powered by 4 volts, and the brushes are slightly pressed with something. If vibration is felt at the same time, and the motor increases speed, then the collector is not smooth enough.

You can try turning the manifold again (unless, of course, the curvature is caused by a machine for turning). Or the situation can be compensated by stiffer clamping springs.

Conclusion

Almost all the points that you will encounter when operating electric motors with a collector have been listed here. Only questions regarding the selection of brushes and clamping springs remained open. But this topic is very extensive and deserves a separate article.

The main task The electric motor is creating rotation. And bearings are used to reduce friction in rotating mechanisms. If you follow them and lubricate them in time, then the service life of the bearings will increase several times. If it is necessary to replace one or both bearings or to perform maintenance on the motor, it is necessary to disassemble the electric motor and remove the rotor or armature with 2 bearings on the shaft. Disassemble the motor by.

Checking the bearings in the electric motor

Always pay attention to the condition bearings for your electric motors. When they are worn above the permissible limit, the bearings overheat and the motor starts to run noisily. If the bearings are not replaced in time, then in a particularly neglected state, the stationary part, the stator, and the moving part, the rotor or armature, may begin to touch each other during rotation. And this threatens with serious breakdowns in the electric motor, which in most cases cannot be restored without replacing it with a new rotor or armature.

Check bearings with your own hands is easy. To test, place the motor on a solid surface. Then place one hand on top of the motor and rotate the shaft. The rotor should rotate evenly and freely without jamming. Try to hear scratching sounds or feel uneven rotation of the rotor. These are the first signs that bearings need to be replaced.

Backlash check. Any rolling bearing (ball or roller) must have radial and longitudinal or axial play. It's ok, because yes new bearing has backlash. The main thing is that it does not go beyond the permissible limits.

If during disassembly electric motor, you notice traces of friction between the rotor and the stator, this clearly indicates the wear of the bearings. If the rotor is badly worn, it must be replaced.

How to remove bearings from motor shaft

To remove bearings from the shaft, you will need special pullers. Please note that these devices vary in size and design. More massive with three and four paws of capture are suitable for large shafts, and for small ones they are suitable with interchangeable plates or strips for gripping.

Note that you only need to focus for the inner ring of the bearing.

If turning by hand is difficult, then use a piece of pipe to lengthen the lever. To make it easier to go, lubricate the shaft with machine oil.

How to put on a bearing

new bearing in its width, inner and outer diameter must exactly match the one being replaced.

Follow what would No dirt got in during installation. inside the bearing. Because of this, it will quickly fail. Inside, there should also be no corrosion, chips or other damage.

The bearing is mounted using a metal pipe matched to the inner diameter of the bearing ring. I recommend lubricating the surfaces before starting the process.

Attention, it is necessary to fit the bearing without distortions, for this it is necessary to beat not on the sides of the pipe, but to make a knob, thanks to which it will be possible to strike in the center.

The process can be greatly simplified if the bearing is heated in boiling oil. At the same time, be careful and do not use an open flame when heating, I recommend an electric stove. Let the bearing soak for 5-10 minutes in boiling oil, then take it out with a metal hook and put it on the rotor with pliers or a rag.

How to lubricate an electric motor bearing

When assembled, further performance bearings depends on their original lubrication, because for most electric motors, it is structurally provided that there is no need to subsequently replace or add grease to the bearings.

Bearings in electric motors are lubricated grease (grease). For models with revolutions up to 3000 per minute, Litol 24 (moisture resistant) or Ciatim 201 (not moisture resistant) is suitable. For lubrication of motors with high speeds, CIATIM-202 is used.

Filled with grease not more than 1/2 of the volume of the bearing chamber in engines up to 3000 rpm, and for faster ones - by 1/3 of the cavity. Do not put more, the excess will still be squeezed out of the bearing during rotation.

Permissible motor bearing temperature

The maximum permissible temperature of the bearings of electric motors must not exceed the following values:

  • For rolling bearings(ball or roller) used in household electric motors and in the vast majority in production, the temperature should not exceed 100 ° C.
  • For plain bearings the temperature should not exceed 80 °C, but the oil temperature should not exceed 65 °C.

in production if needed operation of the electric motor in hot conditions apply special models bearings that can withstand high temperatures.

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Molykote and EFELE lubricating oils, greases, dispersions and pastes provide long-term trouble-free operation of electric motor bearings in equipment of any industry.

Electric motors are essentially converters in which Electric Energy converted into mechanical energy of rotational or linear motion. Losses during this conversion cause some heat to be released.

At the end of the 19th century, electric motors, gradually replacing other mechanical propulsion devices, began to be used in industry. Now they are used everywhere - in production, at home, in transport, in electromechanical, automatic, audio and video devices, water supply systems, medical and computer technology, etc.

Most often found electric motors permanent and alternating current. They are classified by power, speed, ability to change direction, number of phases of the supply voltage, etc. However, despite the differing principle of operation of these engines, their design is largely similar. The main components of any electric motor are a fixed stator, consisting of windings or magnets, and a moving part - a rotor. In order for the rotor to rotate freely inside the stator, it is mounted on supports, the role of which is played by bearings. In electric motors used in industry, most widespread received rolling bearings.

According to the type of perceived load, bearings are divided into radial, angular contact and thrust bearings. The rolling elements in them are ball, needle or roller - with a cylindrical, conical or spherical rolling surface. In addition, rolling elements of radial and angular contact bearings can be installed in several rows. On this basis, bearings are divided into single-row or multi-row. In self-aligning bearings, the axis of the outer ring has the ability to deviate relative to the axis of the inner ring. In separable bearings, the outer or inner rings can be removed. If the clearances between the rolling elements and the raceways of radial or angular contact bearings are adjusted during assembly, then such bearings are called adjustable.

To ensure a long service life of the electric motor, it is necessary to periodically carry out Maintenance its nodes. Bearing lubrication is an integral part of such work. For right choice lubrication of electric motor bearings, first of all, it is necessary to analyze the conditions under which they will be operated.

Small to medium power motors typically use maintenance-free bearings that are lubricated for life. In powerful multi-kilowatt motors, bearings are installed in which the lubricant must be changed at regular intervals.

One of the most important parameters, according to which the lubricants for the rolling bearing are selected, is the rotation speed factor. It, in turn, depends on the number of revolutions of the shaft, the outer and inner diameters.

During operation, the bearings of electric motors perceive vibrations from rotating mechanisms. Depending on the purpose of the engines and the place of their installation, they can be exposed to various aggressive factors. environment seasonal exposure to high and low temperatures, fog, rain, snow, moisture, dust, etc.

As you can see, the operating conditions of electric motor bearings depend on the purpose of the equipment, the climatic zone, indoor or outdoor operation. Perhaps the only difference in their operating conditions is that due to the heat losses of the rotor and stator windings, they usually heat up more than the bearings of other equipment.

Thus, when selecting lubricants for electric motor bearings, one can be guided by the same considerations as for other rolling bearings.

For normal operating conditions, it is quite possible to use traditional lubricants or oils. However, for many types of equipment used in various industries, this or that specificity is usually characteristic.

So, for example, on equipment for wood processing, paper or cement industries, bearings operate in high dustiness. Metallurgical enterprises are characterized by extremely high temperatures. Electric motors of chemical production equipment are exposed to aggressive environments. Under such conditions, traditional oils coke, break down, wash out and cease to perform their lubricating functions.

Thus, for the maintenance of electric motor bearings of specific production equipment, it is necessary to use only special service materials.


High-tech specialty lubricants for both the most difficult conditions operation, and for average modes are produced under the brands Molykote and EFELE. Application lubricating oils, greases, dispersions and pastes for lubricating motor bearings ensure their long-term trouble-free operation in equipment of any industry.

Lubricant application examples Molykote materials and EFLEE to solve the operational problems of electric motor bearings of some industries are given in the following table.

Industry Problems to be solved Material Used Properties
Recycling polymer materials Short life, increased noise, vibration High speeds (DN up to 800000 mm/min)

Moderately high speeds (up to +160 °C)
Long term services


Long service life
Excellent anti-wear properties

Textile industry Short service life due to work in conditions elevated temperatures and speeds

Long service life
Heat resistance (up to +177 °С)
High bearing capacity

Operability in a dusty environment

Long service life
High bearing capacity
Prevents jerky motion
Operability in a dusty environment
High anti-corrosion properties

Long service life
Increased bearing capacity
High anti-corrosion properties
Excellent anti-wear properties

Polymer industry, metallurgy Seizure, scoring, seizing, lubrication washout, corrosion

Long service life
Washout resistance
High oxidation stability
Anti-corrosion properties
High colloidal stability

High anti-wear properties
High bearing capacity
Prevents jerky motion
Operability in a dusty environment
High anti-corrosion properties

Long service life
Operability in dusty and humid environments
High bearing capacity
Anti-corrosion properties

Outdoor machinery and equipment operating at low temperatures Deformation and destruction of plastic and rubber parts, washing out, corrosion

Retains plasticity at temperatures down to -60 °С
Operates at very high speeds
Compatible with plastics and rubbers
Long service life

You can learn more about the choice of lubricant for rolling bearings, depending on the basic conditions of their operation, in the articles and.