Report provided by user Damn, respect for your efforts.
*******************************************************************************************************************************
1) Open the hood and spray HP on the strut nut and 3 cup mounting nuts

2) Put it on the handbrake. Jack up and remove the wheel

3) We clean the bolts from dirt, and at the same time the entire rack assembly. Spray WB on two bolts. Filming brake hose and ABS wire

4) We tear off the nut on the rod (head 17), but do not unscrew it!
We tear off 2 nuts (head 17) securing the rack from below, but do not unscrew it!

5) Place the ties opposite each other and tighten the spring

6) Unscrew the 2 nuts securing the stand from the bottom

7) Rocking the hub up and down, remove the bolts

8) Unscrew the 3 nuts (12 head) securing the rack from above

9) Remove the stand

10) Photo for memory. It's me Damn. I hold the stand carefully so as not to get smeared, I still have to photograph the process)))

11) Another photo for memory. My brother. After making sure that the spring is well tightened (does not press on the supports), he tries to unscrew the nut on the rod

12) After unsuccessful attempt the cap on 17 and the carob on 8 come to the rescue

13) Next in the photo is the sequence of disassembling and reassembling the stand

14) The hero of the occasion is a duster torn into three parts

15) Corrosion has already appeared on the rack

16) We pumped the rack 10 times up and down until it stops, reassembled everything in the reverse order, having first cleaned everything from dust and dirt. The arrows point outwards of the car. The bumper was lubricated with a little oil and it inserted easily.

17) Place the stand in place. We fix 3 nuts on top (Pull carefully, I tore off one stud and clearly pulled two, although my brother warned me, in the end we went to the store and bought them from Desyatka, they are a little longer, but they fit quite well and cost 8 rubles/piece. :ya_hoo_oo: ). Then, also rocking the hub up and down, insert the bolts and fix the nuts. We return the brake hose and ABS to their place. We remove the ties and finally tighten the nut on the rod.

18) Place the wheel and remove the jack and move to the other side.
It seems that I will correct everything that is written incorrectly.

PS I put it FEBEST NSHB-Y11F for 245 RUR/piece
Rod diameters 18 and boot diameters 26 mm
I don’t recommend installing them on anyone, because... after 5000 km you will have to change it again, but in the cold they become tanned and the boot comes off the bumper at the first breakdown
Take the original, you won’t regret it, even if it’s twice as expensive, but you’ll forget about 50 thousand about the anthers.

*****************************************************************************************************************************************************

Good report borrowed FROM HERE, respect to the user edvin for the tip!!!

Replacing front shock absorbers (struts) Nissan Sunny
Racks are important. They affect handling and braking performance. A leaking strut can jam and cause the car to fly off the road. That. The serviceability of the struts must be monitored along with the brakes. The link provided has all the answers to questions about shock absorbers and their diagnostics. But, IMHO, if there is a suspicion that the shock absorber is not working properly, then it is worth replacing them.
Rooms:
I installed KYB 332116 (17) (one of which is left, the other right, with a 17 mm rod, there are options with a 22 mm rod, you can buy the original, which is the same 332116 (17), you can choose Tokyo, Monroe, people are active discusses this on the forum, links below). The boot is original NISSAN 54052-0M011 (54052-0M012), not original, but with a bumper and fastens into the RBI N1431F cup, I put the original on one side, RBI on the other.
Tool:
- good head and wrench 17
- good socket or wrench 12
- key or socket for 10
(I especially focus on the quality of the tool, the nuts are there
with a decent moment and can turn sour, lick them with filth
head easily)
- an adjustable (gas) wrench, or a special set for unscrewing the rod nut
- jack
- wheel wrench
- set for spring tensioning. Better two-legged. There’s no need to be greedy here either. I saved money - the spring flew off, it's good that it didn't hit my face - it could have been very painful.

It is advisable to have a good wrench for the head and a piece of pipe for the lever. It would be nice to place 2-3 bricks under the paw. WD40, in my opinion, should always be available when you plan to unscrew something. The first time it took me about 2-3 hours to complete one stand, taking into account the soured nut and the selection of strong heads. The second time I transferred it in 20 minutes. By the way, before replacing the strut, it’s worth checking the condition of the boots; perhaps it’s worth changing them along with the strut; after all, the strut often dies due to the fact that the torn boot was not noticed in time.
To remove it, you need to unscrew two 17-point nuts securing the strut to the suspension knuckle, unscrew 1 10-point screw securing the tube to the stand (behind the stand), and free it from the tubes. Unscrew the 3 12mm nuts on the cup. Unscrew the 17 nut on the strut rod, having first tightened the spring, change the strut and boot as necessary. Reassemble everything in reverse order.
Now in more detail:

1. First you should clean and soak with water all the nuts that need to be unscrewed.

2. Open the hood and jack up the wheel. We are trying to move the rod nut. On my jacked wheel it moved right away, but it happens that the nut turns sour and accordingly. When you try to unscrew it, it spins along with the rod. I think there is a special kit for unscrewing such nuts. The set consists of a 17mm head, which is turned with a key, and a keyed reel, which passes through the head and holds the rod. I didn't find such a set on the sled, I bought it from rear pillar VAZ 2109-08. It is 17 and fits, but the bobbin is smaller and does not fit on the rod. In principle, it can be wasted, I think. But I didn’t have any problems with this nut, and when the rod did turn, I held it with an adjustable wrench through a rag.

3. Remove the wheel. If you have stocked up on bricks, place them under the lever arm.

4. It’s good if, instead of a jack, the car rests on a block of wood or bricks again. But IMHO it’s still not worth removing the jack. In a word, you need to try to ensure maximum stability for the paw, because in order to unscrew the two ill-fated nuts for the first time, I had to sweat quite a bit and break two 17-mm wrenches.

5. Carefully clean the threads and soak them in air. We take a good 17 socket, a good wrench with a piece of pipe or other lever and try to unscrew these two nuts. We remove the nuts, leaving the bolts for now.

6. Free the stand from the tubes. To do this, knock out the metal latch. We unscrew the screw by 10. We take out all the tubes from their grooves.

7. We go upstairs. Again, we clean and soak the three 12-point nuts that secure the stand to the cup. Use a good 12mm socket and a wrench to unscrew the nuts.

8. Take out the bolts at the bottom.

9. We take out the entire structure of the rack with the spring and boot.

10. Now we take the ties and tighten the spring. It’s good if the spring tightens more or less evenly on both sides. If the ties are single-eared, make sure that they do not break off when tightening. I hit my leg - it hurt. A spring can be considered contracted when one of the ends is released.

11. Unscrew the rod nut. If the rod turns, then either use a special set (I mentioned it above), or hold the rod with an adjustable wrench through a rag, and use a spanner or open-end wrench to turn the nut.

12. Remove the support, boot, spring. The original boot snaps into the cup. We check the integrity of the boot. If necessary, change the boot. A torn boot is the cause of death for a strut. I had a non-original boot, which did not snap into the cup, but moved along the rod - this is the cause of death of my rack. In short, the boot is important.
13. Now we need to bleed the new rack. Here are the original instructions for bleeding the struts:

Before installing a twin-tube shock absorber on a car, it must be brought into working condition. During transportation and storage, in twin-tube shock absorbers, working fluid can flow from the inner to the outer cylinder, while inner cylinder boost gas enters. In this case, the shock absorber will make knocking noises when operating in the car’s suspension, and its throttle valves will be destroyed. To avoid damage to the shock absorber, it MUST be brought into working condition (pumped) before installation. For this:

A. Turn the shock absorber over with the rod down and compress it smoothly, without jerking;
B. Fix the shock absorber rod in this position for 2-3 seconds;
B. While holding the rod, turn the shock absorber over with the rod up, fix the shock absorber in this position for 3-6 seconds;
D. Holding the shock absorber in a vertical position, specified time and smoothly extend the rod to the end of the stroke;
D. Turn the shock absorber with the rod down, pause for 2-3 seconds. and repeat operations A, B, C, D 5-8 times;
E. Having finished pumping the shock absorber, following the sequence, stop at point D;
G. Holding the shock absorber vertically, with the rod up, perform a control operation (with sharp but short movements of the rod, make sure that the piston moves smoothly, without failures). A well-pumped shock absorber means smooth piston movement without failure.

After pumping, the shock absorber should be in the working position, WITH THE ROD VERTICALLY UP, up to complete installation per car.

14. We assemble everything in the reverse order; it is important to observe the location of the spring relative to the rack. The bottom of the spring should line up with the notch in the stop at the bottom of the strut. My springs had colored marks on them that should face outwards. There are marks on the upper supports of the rack, which should also look outward and align. The most upper support until it is tightened, it turns so that the risks can be aligned. If the marks are not aligned, the rack will not fit into the holes in the rack with the top bolts.

15. The kit with the Kayab struts also includes a new nut with a lock, we put it on the rod.

The shock absorber strut is a very important part of the car that should be protected from damage. Few new drivers know what exactly reliable protection The durability of this part depends. The shock absorber strut boot plays important role, as it protects against dirt, small particles and dust. Replacing it requires knowledge of the structure of the car and an understanding of how this part of the car works. In this article we will analyze in detail the functionality of the racks, necessary protection for them we will bring quick guide for replacing shock absorber bumper boots for the strut.

Depending on the type of vehicle, the shock absorber and spring can be attached separately or together. The design under consideration is called a shock absorber strut and performs the main function of smoothing the movement of the machine.

If your car moves smoothly and does not throw up passengers and the driver, then the shock absorber is in its place and it is selected correctly.

Based on this, the main functions of shock absorber struts include:

1. Maintaining constant contact of the wheel with road surface. This point means that the car will not swing up and down after hitting a bump; the stand will be able to reduce these vibrations to zero in a matter of seconds.
2. Minimal feeling of unevenness on the road by the driver and passengers of the car. This means that the stand creates comfort for traveling even on bad roads.
3. Safety of the driver and all vehicle passengers. The stand performs protective functions and makes the car more manageable. In unforeseen situations, emergency situations, it helps the driver maintain the chosen direction of movement.

Tool

To ensure that the replacement of the shock absorber bumper boots that protect the mechanism is carried out quickly and efficiently, it is not necessary to contact highly qualified specialists at the station Maintenance, you can perform all operations at home. To do this, it is worth studying the design of the car in detail and preparing all the parts, tools and spare fasteners.

Be sure to prepare:

• dustproof shock absorber kit, which will include a boot bumper, fasteners for them and the necessary equipment;
• keys different sizes(possible from the extended motorist set);
• sliding key (just in case you don’t have the right size key);
• a set of tools for removing wheels (these should be spring ties, screwdrivers, nuts, keys);
• another additional tool that may be needed depending on the car model.

The shock absorber dust kit can be original (from the manufacturer), universal (which supposedly fits all types of cars) or replacement (a cheap counterfeit version that is similar to the original). The car development company always recommends using only original parts, since only they can work reliably and for a long time. In part, this is a correct statement, since only the manufacturer knows all the ins and outs of your make and model of car. But such original parts from the manufacturer are expensive and for this amount you can buy several replacement or universal kits.

In this case, the choice is only up to the car owner, but it is worth considering the fact that when installing non-original parts, you should be as picky as possible about the shock absorber bumper boot. If you choose something that is not exactly the same, it will burst very quickly and the stand will be unprotected, and this threatens rapid wear and expensive replacement of shock absorbers.

How to replace - step by step

The dustproof shock absorber kit should match the strut and car model as closely as possible. If it is chosen correctly, you can forget about the incomprehensible sounds of the rack for several years. So, if everything is already prepared, let's get to work:

The shock absorber boot is a very important part of the car. It is better to tinker with replacing it than to later deal with the consequences of a damaged shock absorber.
Every caring driver knows about this, so he will visit a service station more often to check the integrity of car parts.

Always be attentive to your iron friend, assistant and carrier, because your car also needs to be treated warmly and with care. Good luck in the difficult engineering business!

Video " Replacement of rear shock absorber bump stop boots”

In the video, a car enthusiast shows how to properly replace shock absorber bumper boots. After watching the recording, you can repeat each replacement step yourself.

One of the most frequent repair operations performed by our car service technicians is to repair the chassis vehicle, is a replacement CV joint anthers, both for preventive purposes and during the repair of this unit. The frequency tells us that this seemingly insignificant problem requires close attention and a timely solution.

In company " Maximum Security» the inner and outer CV joint boots are being replaced at the most favorable conditions: with a guarantee of the quality of all work carried out, using the most modern high-tech equipment and high-quality Supplies, as well as in the shortest possible time and at an affordable, competitive price for St. Petersburg!

Prices for replacing CV joint boots, steering rack, shock absorber, strut:

Replacing the CV joint boot - a few words about the element

CV joint is a joint of equals angular velocities(it is also jokingly called a “grenade”). It transmits torque at wheel rotation angles up to 70º from the longitudinal axis of the vehicle. Most often, CV joints can be seen as part of the front independent suspension(less often - in the back).

Today, the most popular and widespread is the ball CV joint (type “Rzeppa”, “Birfield” or “Bendix-Weiss”), consisting of 6 balls, an inner and outer ring with slots for them. The rings are connected to drive shaft through spline connection. also in CV joint design includes a separator that holds the balls.

Such a number of elements categorically does not tolerate the presence of dust, which sharply increases the friction force of parts and leads to catastrophically rapid breakdown of the unit. Therefore, the CV joint is immersed in a sealed rubber cover, corrugated for better mobility - the so-called “boot”. And in most cases, the health of the entire joint depends on the integrity of this anther.

There are usually 4 of these “grenades” located on the front suspension:

• Two internal (left and right) for installation in a box;
• Two external ones (also right and left) for installation in wheel hubs.

Accordingly, in such cases there are also 4 boots for CV joints (two internal and two external).

Replacement - outer CV joint boot - a little theory

To replace the outer ball boot, you will need to lift the car on a lift and remove the front wheels. Then you will have to loosen the hub nuts, which requires enormous effort or special tools and skills. Next you need to unscrew the ball from lower arm and remove the CV joint from the wheel bearing. Replacing the boot of an outer CV joint is a rather labor-intensive operation, and therefore it is better to carry it out in a well-equipped car service center and by experienced craftsmen who can guarantee not only the correct dismantling of failed parts and the installation of new ones, but also the competent, reliable reassembly of the entire assembly.

Replacing the inner CV joint boot - brief description

Anther internal CV joint It loses its tightness extremely rarely, because it is almost completely protected by the parts of the box. However, there is a need to replace it. Same as with the rubber boot outer CV joint, replacement internal boot“grenade” is accompanied by lifting the car, removing the wheels and partially disassembling the chassis, including removing the CV joint from the hub and completely disassembling the joint for thorough cleaning.

Without special knowledge and skills, it is extremely problematic to accurately select the boot of the internal CV joint, its proper installation and correct reassembly of the entire assembly (it is especially important to insert all the joint balls into their places). That's why replacing the boot internal CV joint should be entrusted to professionals and carried out in a car service center.

Steering rack boot - replacement and meaning of these simple elements

The steering rack is very important detail the chassis of the car, which directly affects its handling. One of the reasons for its failure may be excessive penetration of moisture and dirt into this unit and displacement of lubricant from it, which will rapidly accelerate its premature wear. To protect against such trouble and prevent expensive repairs To replace the steering rack, a special boot has been developed - a sealed rubber casing that protects the connection from dirt and moisture and from lubricant leakage.

Such a casing is by no means eternal and during operation is subjected to various mechanical loads, which ultimately leads to its depressurization. And then you urgently need to install a new steering rack boot - replacing this small and inexpensive part, carried out in a timely manner, can save you thousands of rubles, or even US dollars, on serious repairs to the chassis.

Replacing the shock absorber boot and strut - the suspension does not forgive carelessness

Timely replacement of the strut boot is the key to the durability of this suspension element, because this simple rubber or plastic part reliably protects it from dirt and moisture and premature wear. The same can be said about replacing a vehicle's shock absorber boot. However, despite the primitiveness of these small rubber covers, replacing them is a rather labor-intensive operation that requires a clear understanding of the car’s structure and some tools.

In particular, to replace the strut boot you will need:

• Raise the car on a lift (or as a last resort, jack).
• Unscrew the rod nut and knock its fastening down.
• Push the rod in until it stops.
• Remove the worn boot through the spring.
• Place the new boot on the stand.
• Ensure the correct direction of the rod to its original location.
• Lower the machine and tighten the rod nut back.

This is just one way to replace the front strut boot (a similar operation can be done on the rear one). Also replacing the boot brake caliper or shock absorber will require not only manual dexterity and special knowledge, but also the appropriate equipment and qualifications of the craftsman. Therefore, it is better to carry it out in a certified car service center that has proven itself in St. Petersburg, for example, Maximum Security.

Replacing the boot - price and other advantages of contacting Maximum Security

In our service centers You can order a service such as replacing the boot - the price of this procedure will be disproportionately lower, as well as the time losses, than when repairing a unit that has failed due to the depressurization of this small rubber element and dirt and moisture getting into metal joints.

In addition to the price of replacing anthers various nodes(CV joints, shock absorbers, brake calipers, struts, etc.), the advantage of our company is the high qualifications and experience of our craftsmen, allowing them to cope with a task of any complexity in the shortest possible time.

Replacing anthers - signs of the need for this procedure

There are a number of symptoms that indicate that you need urgent replacement shock absorber boot, strut, brake caliper or CV joint:

• Visual violation of the integrity of the corrugated rubber band (look with the wheel turned out too far);
• Traces of splashed lubricant around the CV joint boot;
• Also, a faulty CV joint boot will make itself felt by sound - on sharp turns a characteristic crack will be heard;
• Excessive vertical rocking of the machine when pressing on it from above may indicate the need to replace the shock absorber boot or struts;
• Uneven wear brake pads may indicate the need to replace the brake caliper boot.

The symptoms described above signal the need to take active steps to eliminate the problem as soon as possible. Otherwise, this seemingly insignificant “disease” may turn into a long and expensive “treatment” for your “ iron horse" In a word, replacing CV joint boots - internal and external, shock absorbers, struts and calipers should become a useful habit for every car owner. Then it will be possible to significantly extend the trouble-free service life of the car and prevent its serious breakdowns!

In the previous article about anthers, we looked at the main options for their use, and also determined their necessity, significance, and the consequences of their destruction.

There are other parts that have protective covers(anthers), which are definitely worth talking about. For example, boots of struts (shock absorbers).It so happened that initially the article was conceived specifically about them, but when writing it was necessary to give a detailed definition of anthers as a whole, which ultimately gave rise to a huge article that had to be divided into two parts. So, the rack boots.

These boots are somewhat similar in appearance to the steering rack boots, but are installed on the racks. It is the reliability of this boot that often determines how long the strut lasts on a car.

So what does the strut boot protect? Paradoxically, the rack, or rather its upper part, where the working part of the rack moves up and down, is its rod. This entire structure without anther becomes completely defenseless against dirt, dust and water - the moving rod will catch microscopic particles of dirt and drag them inside the body, breaking the entry point, the oil seal located in it, which leads to a breakdown of the strut and the release of gas from it and oils.

You often hear the phrase from Honda drivers: “Tell me what to do, the original struts are expensive, but I installed Kayaba, and it hasn’t even lasted a summer!” The first question after the phrase “Kayaba, she’s such a Kayaba,” which in this case should be asked, “What kind of duster did you use?” As a rule, a person is either completely unaware of what the question is about, or, on the contrary, says, “yes, they sold a universal one in the kit, it tore within a week!” But it is in the boot that, in my opinion, 80% of the troubles of third-party racks for Honda lie. It's no secret that, in principle, KYB racks are not bad, I would even say quite decent, in terms of quality. It’s not for nothing that they are one of the world leaders in this production segment! But there is often dissatisfaction from Honda owners. And this doesn’t just apply to Kayaba. Companies such as Tokico, Monroe and others also get hit hard by angry car enthusiasts who installed struts from these manufacturers on their cars, and they failed in a short time. The problems of Honda drivers with struts are the following simple points:

Desire to save money in the segment where low price should be suspicious.

Wrong selection(or rather ignorance correct selection) racks according to the catalogue. For example, KYB stands for Honda Civic EU and Honda Stream are the same. But in reality, the original stands for Stream have a rod that is at least 1.5 times thicker! Accordingly, installing racks from the Civic on the Stream, seemingly correctly selected according to Kayaba, leads to their rapid failure.

The use of unknown anthers.

The third point, in my opinion, is the most important. An incorrectly selected (universal) boot, or a boot made correctly on the stand, but from poor material, quickly fails. As a result, the budget (see the first point on the list of problems!) Kayab (Tokikov) strut, which in principle should last at least 20,000 km, quickly fails, losing protection from water, dust and dirt, since the boot is already torn.

It’s not for nothing that it was mentioned about the budget - no one wants to take a GOOD stand, which is more expensive than the original, - everyone consoles themselves with the thought that for 5500 rubles a Kayaba will go like the original for 8000, and the “combat” Kayaba stand which is better than the original for 10,000 is generally it's a whim, isn't it?! 😉

Returning to the issue of anthers. It would seem that what the problem is - you can buy duplicate racks (the same kayaba) and put a separately purchased original boot on it! But that was not the case! Firstly, as was given in the example with the racks on the Stream and Civic, the original boot will not always fit on the “non-original” rack. Secondly, the original boot often costs half the price of a duplicate stand.

How to be? And, as usual, there are two ways out. The first one is “use original parts”, that is, “use original spare parts" Expensive? There is a second option - increase the frequency of “arrivals” to the service. If before this you visited a car service center twice a year to service your car, increase the number of “arrivals” to four or more. This will significantly increase the chance of “catching” a torn boot “at the start”, before the damage to the strut has reached critical levels. Of course, this will cost money, but do not forget about the “law of conservation of energy”; if something has arrived somewhere, then something has left somewhere. While you can’t beat this rule, if you managed to save on something, look for the moment where you will have to overpay for something. But in fact, everything is not scary, because as they say, “even if you are eaten, you have two options.” 🙂

Honda Vodam.ru

More interesting articles

In contact with