Manufacturers of fuels and lubricants offer a fairly wide range of motor lubricants, so choose the right brand substances is not difficult. However, few people know that for power units with impressive mileage, the lubricating substance differs significantly in its parameters from that indicated in the maintenance documentation.

The situation gets worse if the machine is long term It was purchased quite recently and the owner does not know what kind of oil the previous driver bothered to pour into the gasoline engine. To begin with, it doesn’t hurt to understand the range of lubricants and their properties.

A short educational program: classification of motor lubricants

The structural composition of engine lubricant is basic foundation and package special additives. As a base, manufacturers use oil fractions obtained through the artificial synthesis of organic compounds or oil processing, as well as their mixtures. Based on this principle, a classification of lubricants is formed:

1. Mineral.
2. Synthetic.
3. Semi-synthetic.

The last two types have best characteristics than mineral ones, but their cost is corresponding. According to the degree of viscosity and its transformation depending on temperature, lubricants are divided into:

• winter;
• summer;
• all-season.

All-season materials enjoy unquestioned authority because they eliminate the need to replace them throughout the year. The scope of use of lubricants determines their operational properties. To choose the right oil to pour into a gasoline engine, you need to take into account its cleaning, anti-wear and antioxidant parameters. For these purposes, international classification systems have been developed:

• SAE - 2001 edition J-300APR97 includes five summer and six winter classes of motor lubricants. Summer ones are indicated by numbers; the higher the number, the higher the viscosity level. Winter varieties are indexed with the letter “W”, and all-season varieties are indexed with a double designation, for example 20W-40.
• API - classification divides oils into 2 categories: S - for gasoline units and C – for diesel engines. Marking universal fluids has designations of both categories, for example, SG/CD.
• ACEA - specification includes 11 categories, divided into 3 classes: A/B - for diesel and gasoline units passenger cars; C – compatible with neutralizers exhaust systems; E – for diesel trucks.
• ILSAC - classification consists of 3 classes for light fuel engines: GF-1, GF-2, GF-3.

How to determine what kind of oil should be poured into a gasoline engine with high mileage?

For machines with a long service life, it is important to determine if there are any problems with power plant. Let's say there is waste, if so, what kind and how often do you have to replenish the lubricant? It is necessary to evaluate what the pressure is in the lubrication system, whether there are extraneous sounds when the motor is running.

It is likely that the motor needs major renovation, but if no functional disturbances are detected, then we settle on the choice of lubricant:

• Material classification and tolerances must be in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for a certain model auto.
• When deciding which engine oil to pour into a gasoline engine, you should not dwell on options with a minimum acceptable requirements, it is better to buy a liquid from the top line according to SAE and API classifications, or at least from the middle one.
• It is strictly forbidden to choose lubricants with deliberately underestimated parameters and tolerances. It is necessary to take into account the fact that the catalogs contain lubricants for cars older than the previous year.

There is an expert opinion regarding the last point - it is rational to use oils for veteran cars latest developments, however, it is not without exceptions.

Motor lubricant for “old guys”

There are certain restrictions on use modern brands motor lubricants. This mainly applies to products that have a reduced HTHS temperature shear viscosity coefficient. The fact is that their use is justified in new power structures, which are designed to work with materials of low viscosity in order to save fuel.

For early production vehicles, the use of such lubricants can lead to functional problems in internal combustion engine operation up to the destruction of its individual components. Such oils are of little use for older vehicles, these include:

• ACEA A1/B1.
• ACEA A5/B5.
• ACEA C1 and C2.
• VW 503.00/ 506.00/ 506.01.
• BMW LL-01FE.
• Ford 913 A/B.

Viscosity issue

As already mentioned, viscosity should be determined by the operating conditions of the machine, as well as the condition of its power unit. The last criterion is decisive when choosing a lubricant for a used car. In the case when there are no problems in the operation of the internal combustion engine, there are also no special restrictions on the question of what kind of oil to pour into a gasoline engine according to viscosity level. It is enough to take into account climatic conditions and the cost of the material.

The best option, according to experts, is products with a viscosity of SAE 5W-30. Such conclusions were made on the basis of proven energy-saving and temperature parameters during the operation of Japanese and American cars. 10W-30 will be a little less burdensome on the wallet. But for European specimens ICE more I like SAE 5W-40 and SAE 10W-40 lubricants.

With similar operational parameters differences in the viscosity of oils of different categories makes it possible to avoid problems with old units. For example, some mineral materials at 100°C the viscosity is slightly higher than many synthetics. This fact makes it possible to create a thick and durable lubricating film at operating temperatures, which is very important for a worn-out engine, since it ensures stable pressure in the system and reduces waste losses.

Briefly about important details

• A certain part of engines require the use of lubricants only on a synthetic base. The transition to another variety is accompanied by the issuance of on-board computer errors up to blocking the operation of the internal combustion engine.
• We need to remember about low temperature properties lubricants, because the main part of engine wear occurs cold start. Here, mineral-based units are inferior to synthetic and semi-synthetic counterparts, which threatens increased wear of the power plant.
• Under conditions of wear and tear, oxidative processes are more active, so mineral substances are oxidized more intensely than synthetic or semi-synthetic ones.

conclusions

If the internal combustion engine has no significant problems with mileage, then to the question of which oil is better to fill in a gasoline engine, there is only one answer - synthetic or semi-synthetic with recommended specifications. It is allowed to increase the operational class taking into account new technologies. It is unacceptable to use lubricants with reduced HTHS viscosity 3.5 mPas in motors manufactured before 1999.

If there are problems with the engine, their cause should be identified. In certain cases, the use of lubricant with increased viscosity allows you to solve a number of problems. At the same time, in mandatory It is necessary to control the lubricant level.

Today we will deviate a little from the usual structure of such ratings - “best mineral / semi-synthetic / synthetic oil" The reason is simple: a particular engine first of all needs the oil viscosity specified by the manufacturer, and modern engines use low-viscosity lubricants (this is usually a high-temperature viscosity of 30, on many engines - 20). It is stupid to discuss anything other than synthetics in this context. The division into categories “oil for gasoline/diesel engines” looks no less strange, taking into account the fact that 90% modern oils have approvals for use in both types of engines, discussing pure “diesel” oil in relation to passenger cars makes sense only in the segment of oils intended for engines with particulate filters.

Therefore, today we will divide motor oils into categories of their specific application, and not into virtual and non-existent ones. practical sense parameters:

• Oils with high temperature viscosity 40(5W40 in our rating) - the best option for engines produced in the 90s - early 2000s. For regions of the Far North, it makes sense to consider 0W40 oils; this can significantly facilitate engine starting in winter.
• 5 W30 today can be considered universal: this viscosity is also used in budget foreign cars, and in premium car engines.
• 0 W20- low-viscosity motor oils used in a large number of modern engines. Moreover, it is strictly not recommended to pour more viscous oils into them: piston rings, which specifically have reduced elasticity to reduce mechanical losses, cannot cope with a more durable oil film, and oil loss begins to increase.
• High temperature viscosity 50 is relevant for owners who use their cars hard - it’s not for nothing that 5W50 and 10W60 oils are commonly called “sports” oils.
• 10W40 - The standard choice of owners of old cars, as a rule, is budget semi-synthetics of outdated quality classes - SH, SJ.
• Diesel engines with particulate filters should have minimal oil loss, which should not produce a noticeable solid sediment (low ash content). This parameter is critical, therefore only oils that have the appropriate certification can be filled into the engines of such cars. Overwhelming majority passenger diesels This type uses oils with a viscosity of 5W30, and we will consider them.

Changing the oil is one of the most common chores which motorists perform. Of course, this operation can be entrusted to experienced craftsmen at a service station or you can do it yourself. Having decided to figure it out yourself, first, you should decide what kind of oil should be poured into the engine. To do this, you need to navigate their classification, because store windows are full of hundreds of types of products, and making a choice becomes much more difficult. There are many criteria for selection - viscosity, energy saving class, washing ability, anti-wear effect, oxidation resistance, washing ability, anti-corrosion.

Also don't forget about oil classifications. For example, mineral oils are more viscous and form a thick film, so it is better to pour them into older cars. Moreover, they leak much less through worn oil seals. Synthetic oils are more fluid, and this factor reduces friction between parts, increases engine power and reduces fuel consumption. They are recommended to be used by newer and powerful cars that operate under heavy loads. The compromise option is semi-synthetic oil, which is used in temperate climatic conditions and with moderate use.

The editors of our blog analyzed the oil market according to customer reviews and compiled top 7 best oils which is presented below.

Seventh place. This oil is a synthetic lubricant that was created for passenger cars. It can be poured into any gasoline and diesel units, with the exception of diesel engines with a particulate filter.

A particulate filter is an element for cleaning particulate particles of exhaust gases. Used in diesel engines.

Facial and back side containers of oil ELF Evolution 900NF 5W-40

The oil can withstand extended replacement intervals; in addition, it perfectly cleans all parts and is perfect for various climatic zones. High viscosity index of this oil guarantees optimal operation engine at especially low temperatures(due to good fluidity in the cold) and under extreme high temperatures V wide range loads

Video review of this oil:

The product abbreviation is deciphered as follows:
ELF– brand name
Evolution- the name of a line of motor oils intended for passenger cars.
900 - means that this motor oil is synthetic.
NF- the name of a specific product.
5W - low temperature viscosity oil when starting the engine cold (w means winter). During a cold start, this engine oil will be easily pumped through the system and will protect it from dry friction of parts.
40 - high temperature viscosity of the oil. The higher this value, the greater the oil viscosity at high temperatures.

Pros:

1. Cleans all elements efficiently;
2. Suitable for most engines;
3. Frequent replacement is not necessary.

Minuses:

1. Unreliable packaging.

At the sixth level of the rating is high-quality motor oil, which is easily suitable even for turbocharged engines. An excellent option for units with a common fuel rail and direct injection. The highest viscosity index is guaranteed to provide a wide variety of temperature conditions. The oil has extended drain intervals and increased wear protection. Perfect for passenger cars of the VAZ (Lada) family, making the engine absolutely clean.

This is what the container looks like TOTAL oils Quartz 9000 5W40

Throughout its entire service life, the oil retains stable properties, even in cold weather conditions doesn't harden up to -39 degrees, and in hot weather it maintains a stable oil film. At 40°C has a viscosity 90 mm²/s, A at 100 °C - 14.7 mm²/s, viscosity index is 172, density at 15°C is 855, flash at 230°C.

Flash- the lowest temperature value at which heated oil vapors mix with air and can explode in the presence of a flame. When choosing oil, you should give preference to more high performance flashes (more than 200 degrees), otherwise the engine oil evaporates, leaving ash and soot on engine parts.

Test results various oils and in particular TOTAL Quartz 9000 5W40

The product abbreviation is deciphered as follows:
Total Quartz 9000 means oil High Quality and is produced using synthetic Total technologies, for diesel and gasoline engines of passenger cars.
5w40- motor oil viscosity indicators.

Pros:

1. Guaranteed high degree of protection;
2. Solid protection interval;
3. The engine is kept clean at all times.

Minuses:

1. Bad fuel can cause problems.

Fifth place occupies a universal synthetic oil, which will help extend the life of the engine and also make it more reliable. It is suitable for both petrol and diesel engines. Often used for Chevrolet cars. The oil can withstand a fairly wide temperature Range and good for difficult conditions operation. At 40°C has a viscosity 58 mm²/s, A at 100 °C - 14 mm²/s, the pour point is -39 degrees, flash point 222 ºC Density at 15°C, is 0.855 kg/l.

Original oil container MOBIL Super 3000 X1 5W-40

Super 3000 X1- indicates that the oil is completely synthetic.
5W40- viscosity index

Pros:

1. Excellent performance in winter and summer;
2. The motor is quite quiet;
3. The engine always starts the first time.

Minuses:

1. There are a large number of fakes on sale.

Fourth place takes up synthetic oil, giving your engine a new lease of life. The engine will become clean, because deposits will no longer form. It makes the engine perform as efficiently as possible and is able to withstand a long replacement interval. Kinematic viscosity at 40°C has an indicator 74,4 , at 100°C equal to 13,1, the pour point is -39°C.

Original container SHELL Helix Ultra 5W-40

The product abbreviation stands for this:
Helix Ultra - the name of a series of fully synthetic motor oils that are based on latest technologies. Products in this series are intended for use in modern gasoline and diesel engines.
5W40- viscosity indicator.

Pros:

1. Perfectly lubricates all important parts;
2. Oil does not burn;
3. The engine runs quite quietly.

Minuses:

1. Counterfeits are common.

Third place. This oil uses titanium compounds that have amazing durability. A durable film will help protect the engine from various problems. Recommended for power units of Volkswagen and other foreign cars. The oil will have a beneficial effect on the engine, allowing it to heal new life. Oil density at 15°C 0.85g/ml, kinematic viscosity at 100°C equal to 13 mm²/s, pour point -42°C, flash point is 202°C.

Original container Castrol Edge 5W-40

The oil is deciphered as follows:
Edge- the name of the series produced by the Castrol brand.
5W40- viscosity indicator.

Pros:

1. Unlocks the potential of the engine;
2. Reliably protects against contamination;
3. Works well at high speeds.

Minuses:

1. Often counterfeited.

Second place. This oil is very effective at fighting deposits, thereby extending engine life. The manufacturer itself claims that the oil can save up to 4 percent of fuel. The overall engine life is also noticeably extended. Oil density at +15 °C 0.855 kg/m³, viscosity at +40 °C is 81.0 mm²/s, viscosity at +100°C equals 14.0 mm²/s, flash point 230°C.

Original container LIQUI MOLY Molygen New Generation 5W-40

The name is deciphered as follows:
Molygen New Generation– indicates that the oil is synthetic and made using a special technology with a proprietary anti-friction additive package.
5W40- viscosity indicator.

Pros:

1. Saves fuel;
2. Positively affects engine dynamics;
3. The engine runs smoothly and smoothly.

Minuses:

1. Quite a high price.

Honorary first place took our rating this oil, which has Euro-4 and Euro-5 standards, and is also used by progressive diesel and gasoline engines. Well suited for Toyota, domestic and other foreign cars. It will help protect the engine new car in its original form. At the same time, not only individual elements, but also the entire engine will be guaranteed to shine clean.

View of the original packaging Motul 8100 X-clean 5W40

It is worth noting that this oil hardens at a temperature of -39 degrees, and this allows you to use it even in the most cold weather. This oil is different high level stability against oxidation, has a stable oil film and excellent lubricating characteristics. Oil viscosity at 40°C amounts to 84.7 mm²/s, flash point 234°C, pour point -39°C.

The abbreviation stands for:
8100 - name of a series of fully synthetic motor oils Motul. 8100 series oils have reliable protection under conditions of extreme loads.
X-clean- the name of this product. The letter "X" means that the engine oil provides maximum protection new engines and engines with high mileage.
5W40- viscosity indicator.

Pros:

1. Effectively cleans the entire engine;
2. Ideal for new engines;
3. Really saves fuel.

Minuses:

1. There are frequent cases of counterfeiting.

Thus, we reviewed some of the most popular brands of motor oils, which are most often used by car enthusiasts for domestic cars, as well as foreign cars. If you have any questions or comments about this material, leave them in the comments to the article.

Many car enthusiasts save on oil, preferring cheaper ones to expensive ones. Others, on the contrary, buy the most expensive oil, which is on the market, and pour it into your car. The funny thing is that neither one nor the other is absolutely right.

Let's try to figure out what types of oils are available and what should you use in your car?

The first thing worth noting in the matter of choosing this extremely important consumables, this is the fact that engine life depends on oil by almost 50%. That is good oil prolongs the life of the motor, and poor quality, on the contrary, shortens it. This is a scientifically proven fact that is difficult to argue with.

Classification of motor oils

The main criterion by which motor oils are divided is viscosity. Oil viscosity is the most important characteristic and is selected depending on the design of the engine, its operating modes and many other factors. Currently the only one recognized in foreign countries classification system for automotive motor oils is SAE specification J300. SAE is an acronym for the Society of Automotive Engineers.

Oil viscosity according to this system is expressed in conventional units - SAE viscosity grades (SAE Viscosity Grade - SAE VG). Many drivers have heard abbreviations such as: 10W, 15W, 20W, but few know that this is actually a characteristic of oil viscosity. Below are the standard classification series:

winter range: SAE 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W (W-winter (winter)) summer range: SAE 20, 30, 40, 50, 60;

Almost all oil manufacturers use this classification, so first of all, be sure to find out what kind of oil is recommended to be poured into your car. The second question will be choosing the brand of motor oil.

Which brand should you choose?

It is very difficult to choose a brand of oil when from all sides you are offered to be a Formula 1 pilot, Castrol or Shell Bay, then they attract you with all sorts of animals, they say, “tiger” protection and so on and so forth. Personally, I try to use the recommendations of professionals in such matters and use mineral Mobil oil 1. The manufacturer, of course, is important, but counterfeit products very often appear on store shelves, which are often difficult to distinguish, but possible. Remember, any oil made in a factory using a certain technology is more or less normal, which cannot be said about fakes.

Try to protect yourself as much as possible using simple methods: be sure to ask the seller for papers confirming the fact of cooperation between the manufacturer and this store. Look carefully at all holograms and stickers, go to the manufacturer’s website and find out what new distinctive signs it uses to protect against counterfeits, always use trusted stores.

"Synthetic" or "mineral water"

Another important nuance- synthetic or mineral oil choose. Some of my friends constantly boast that they only fill their front-wheel drive VAZs with Shell “synthetics”. When I hear such statements, I can only sympathize with the engine.

The fact is that synthetic oils have lower viscosity and contain a number of active additives. These components are designed to dissolve carbon deposits from internal surfaces engine, thus performing a cleaning and washing function. If you are not the first owner of the car or your car has traveled more than 60 thousand kilometers, you are STRICTLY NOT RECOMMENDED to fill the engine with synthetic oil. Exceptions are cases when the owner pours synthetics into a new car from day one.

Why can't this be done? There are two reasons: 1. In the case of an old motor, synthetics will simply corrode some of the old carbon deposits, which have already worn in and do not harm the motor, and it will immediately begin to wear out, experiencing severe overloads.2. Due to low viscosity and good adhesion, oil will begin to ooze through all the old cuffs (rear and front crankshaft cuffs, etc.), causing a lot of trouble for the car owner.

If you are the proud owner of a sports car with a turbocharged engine, you should approach the choice of oil very responsibly, since the engines of these cars constantly operate under high thermal load conditions and high blood pressure. Poor quality or incorrectly selected oil can lead to premature “death” of the engine.

So, the main conclusions from what was written above: find out what kind of oil your car manufacturer recommends, take into account the winter and summer periods, do not buy a fake, make all changes on time. "Health" to your engine.

Mikhail Sorkin

When the fuel gauge approaches zero mark, the driver does not have a question: “what gasoline (diesel) should I put in the gas tank?” Information about what is required octane number is in the car's operating instructions, the name of the oil refinery (fuel manufacturer) interests you even less than the “address” of the oil well.

A normal driver only pays attention to the gas station logo (at little-known gas stations there is a risk of buying fuel that has been “decarbonized” or not produced according to standards).
Then why the question: “Which oil is better to pour into the engine?” causes so much discussion?

General information about motor oils

When any unit operates, moving parts rub against each other. Rollers (balls) of bearings - on cages, crankshaft– on liners, connecting rods – on piston pins. To reduce wear, lubricant is supplied to the contact point.

What tasks does the oil poured into the engine perform:

• creates a thin film with a minimal coefficient of friction. The load on the engine is reduced, wear is reduced;
• washes the internal cavities of the engine from slag, temperature deposits, and wear products. All “garbage” in suspension is passed through oil filter, and settles in the cartridge;
• counteraction to oxidative processes. Any lubricant contains alkaline additives that neutralize acids that arise during engine operation. As a result chemical reaction, corrosion risks are reduced.

The lubricant consists of a whole set of main and auxiliary (chemically active) components. Their correct combination determines what oil to pour into the engine.

The car manufacturer sets special requirements for lubricants. Chemical enterprises, in order to obtain the so-called approval, customize basic characteristics to these requirements. As a result, the buyer can accurately determine whether this composition is suitable for his car or not.

IN technical documentation car, in addition to the basic characteristics of lubricants, the car manufacturer must have approval for lubricants. When choosing oil, this combination of letters and numbers carries more useful information than the manufacturer's logo.

For example: Volkswagen - VW 507.00, Ford - M2C917-A, Mercedes - MV 229.3.

Important: The examples given are not exhaustive for the listed car brands. The tolerance for lubricants is indicated in the instructions for maintenance car, section: “Technical fluids”.

As you already understand, manufacturers are trying to produce motor oils in accordance with the requirements of automakers. Market relations do not forgive liberties in characteristics, and car factories enter into contracts with those chemical concerns that offer a product that best meets the needs of engine engineers.
That is, a really high-quality composition is poured on the conveyor.

The same applies to the network of authorized service stations. It makes no sense for the craftsmen of these workshops to use the first lubricants they come across, risking ruining the engine and paying warranty repair. What about car owners who have thrown off the yoke? warranty obligations? On the counters there are canisters from various chemical concerns located in orderly rows, and all of them have permission for your car.


It is better not to consider options without access, even on the advice of your best friends.

Important: Automakers are constantly changing the abbreviations of their approvals. This is due to the emergence of new technologies in engine manufacturing. If your car is more than 10 years old, you may not find the desired combination on the oil label.

There are two options:

1. Buy lubricants only with your car's logo. They are guaranteed to be approved for older cars as well. But this can be too expensive; “original” oils cost 10%-25% more.
2. Get reliable information about the compatibility of new approvals with old ones, from the automaker’s website. As a rule, when certifying the next approval, automakers draw up a list of “absorption” of old standards with new ones.

And of course, in order not to get into trouble when choosing the next bright label, you need to understand what the basic characteristics of lubricants mean.

What is oil viscosity

Lubricants change consistency depending on temperature. Moreover, this same temperature can “jump” within enormous limits during one operating cycle: from the moment the engine starts until it stops.

How it works?

You selected the oil to fill based on the average temperature in the region. In the morning, frost hit unplannedly, and the starter has difficulty cranking the crankshaft: the lubricant has thickened.

Then the engine warmed up, the oil became too liquid, and the film on the contact surface did not hold. After a trip, when the viscosity of lubricants is minimal, all the liquid drains into the oil pan: the lubrication points are dry.

The next morning, not only is the starter working again increased load: until the engine warms up and liquid lubricant won't climb up oil channels, friction units operate almost dry.

To understand which oil is best to fill, you need to understand what happens to the oil and how it is in the engine - interesting video

This is roughly how oils with the wrong viscosity work. 20-30 years ago it was serious problem: an oil change was required in accordance with the operating season. To put it simply: thicker in summer, thinner in winter.

Modern lubricants depend only on engine characteristics. The required viscosity is maintained regardless of the ambient temperature. The higher the quality of the oil (depending on the set of additives), the more stable the properties throughout the entire temperature cycle of the engine.

Classification of motor oils by viscosity:

Oil viscosity is a compromise between the ability to maintain an oil film at friction points (too thin a consistency will not allow this) and fluidity (the ability of oil to move through oil channels).

Viscosity is measured and labeled according to SAE classification, and consists of two numeric designations, separated by the letter W.


The first number is the temperature indicator of the so-called cold start (low-temperature viscosity). It depends on whether the starter can crank the crankshaft, say, at -25°C.
For normal operation of the engine in a warm state, it is necessary to strictly observe the value of the second digit: high-temperature viscosity. The operating temperature is reached quite quickly, and the rest of the time the oil operates at the “correct” viscosity regime.

When the question arises: “what kind of oil should I fill in?” depending on the season - it’s still more important to match the number after the “W”. To run in bitter frost, the engine can be brought to life using a heater. But the discrepancy in viscosity at standard temperature cannot be compensated for by anything.

Which oil is best for winter and does it need to be changed?

The question is closely related to the previous section. Let's figure out whether the notorious " winter oil"? As we know, the first digit in the SAE viscosity designation characterizes the cold start temperature. That is, with given high-temperature viscosity characteristics (for example, 30), winter engine oil will be designated 0W30, and summer oil will be designated 10W30.

The difference is visible in the illustration:


In some regions where seasonal temperatures differ by 60°C, the appropriate viscosity type is poured each season. If the change in winter and summer coincides in mileage with the timing of maintenance, you will not have to worry about the question: “Which oil is better to fill in?” In summer, the value of high-temperature viscosity is higher, in winter it is lower.

And if, according to the mileage, the oil needs to be changed once a year?

In this case, it is better to pay attention to the base of the lubricant. Synthetic and semi-synthetic oils react differently to temperature changes. And mineral water depends so much on the temperature outside that adding lubricant out of season is detrimental to the engine.

What kind of oil should I fill in, synthetic semi-synthetic or mineral?

To understand which motor oil is best to pour into the engine, consider the difference between the types of base:

• synthetics are made from chemical compounds hydrocarbons. Without going into details, it is produced from natural gas. The viscosity of such a base is practically independent of the ambient temperature, therefore General characteristics lubricants do not change, from a cold start to warming up to operating temperature. True, production is quite expensive, so pure synthetics cost a pretty penny
• a mineral analogue of any oil (although it would be more correct to say that mineral water has synthetic analogues) is created on the basis of natural raw materials, that is, oil. The cost is low, the price of the lubricant is attractive. What about the parameters? While the oil is “fresh”, the performance is no worse than that of expensive synthetics. However mineral base“wears out” quite quickly, if such a term can be applied to a liquid. In addition, mineral water greatly changes its viscosity depending on temperature. Until the engine warms up, frosty weather It’s better not to move. If you manage to turn the crankshaft at all;
• as usual, there is always golden mean. Semi-synthetics have a low cost. And the characteristics, in some cases, are no worse pure synthetics. In terms of service life, the indicators are unimportant. Therefore, such oil must be changed strictly according to the maintenance schedule. But the dependence on temperature is an order of magnitude better than that of mineral water.

Despite the diversity brands, there are no more than a dozen real manufacturers. When choosing a good oil, you focus on the promotion of the logo and the price. Do you think it's better to pour expensive oil? Marketers think the same way, offering the same composition at different prices.

Each global manufacturer produces lubricants under different names. If the composition is the same, but the price differs twice, then one brand is highlighted in the so-called. “elite” category, and the second is classified as economy class. There is a slight difference in additives that does not fundamentally affect the quality.

Interesting video about the interchangeability of motor oils and brands

To change your engine oil without overpaying for a name, study the structure of leading oil and auto chemical manufacturers. Under each concern there are a dozen subordinate brands. You can be sure: the quality of a product with the same marking is practically the same. The main thing is to check the compatibility of your car manufacturer's approvals.

Dependence of oil on fuel

As you understood from the previous material, it does not matter what brand of oil is best to pour into the engine. For petrol and diesel internal combustion engines There are approvals from car manufacturers. What is the difference between them?

The gasoline engine runs smoothly, but the crankshaft rotation speed is higher. Temperature is also different. Accordingly, oils for light fuel engines must be more viscous and withstand high temperatures.

A diesel engine warms up slowly, and the operating mode is harsher, associated with vibrations. The characteristics of the oils are selected to suit these conditions; manufacturers relieve the buyer of the decision of what oil to pour into the engine. The packaging contains the appropriate markings:

Advice:
Don't chase logos from TV commercials. Promoted brands are more often counterfeited by scammers. At best you risk buying regular oil, having paid exorbitant prices, and in the worst case, receive purified waste in a beautiful box.