Silence in the car interior is directly related to comfort for the driver and passengers. It is unlikely that anyone will like to ride inside the "rattle". Therefore, drivers try to make the car as quiet as possible. Soundproofing a car interior is a laborious task, but quite doable with your own hands and at no extra cost.

Causes of noise

The noise level in the car interior depends on four main factors:

1. Vehicle body vibration is the main source of noise. Road roughness and engine operation create vibration that is not damped by the suspension and engine mounts. The body is to blame for 60% of the noise in the car.
2. Engine noise. Manufacturers are trying to minimize this figure, but it is the motor that creates 20% of the noise.
3. External sources of noise. Cars passing by, headwinds, road noise under the wheels - the share of these noises against the general background is 10%.
4. Interior sources of noise. Creaking, rattling plastic parts interior, door trim, dashboard– 10% off general level noise.

Knowing the sources of noise, it becomes clear what to look for Special attention doing the work with their own hands. It will also help to right choice insulation material.

Since the sounds penetrating into the car interior have a different nature of origin, then the sound insulation elements must solve specific problems:

1. Reduce vibration levels.
2. Increase sound absorption.
3. Eliminate squeaks and rattles.

Vibration Reducing Materials

To solve the problem of eliminating vibration as a source of noise, materials with viscosity and elasticity are used. The insulation tightly envelops the surface, due to which the amplitude of its oscillations is significantly reduced. The basis of vibration isolation materials, as a rule, is bitumen or foamed rubber.

The most popular materials among motorists who perform vibration isolation with their own hands are: STP (StandardPlast) - Vibroplast or Bimast series.

The choice of material depends on the degree of vibration loading of the treated area. The fact is that Bimast has a good mechanical loss coefficient (MCL), but it is heavy - its weight is from 4 to 6 kg per m2. In addition, Bimast requires heating the surface before installation (you will need a building hair dryer) followed by rolling with a roller.

Vibroplast has an IMF lower than that of Bimast, but it will not be difficult to make a high-quality installation of this material with your own hands. It does not need to be heated, and thanks to excellent adhesion, Shumka is glued to any surface. For installation, scissors, a knife and a mounting roller are required. Thus, by combining the use of Bimast with Vibroplast, it is possible to achieve excellent result. We recommend heavy insulation on the floor and lighter insulation on the rest of the surface.

Materials used for sound and heat insulation

To make high-quality sound insulation with your own hands, it is better to use well-proven materials:

• Accent (from the STP series).
• Isolon is a material similar to Accent.

Both of these materials, having excellent soundproofing properties, are effective heat insulators. It should be noted that when performing work it is better to use materials different manufacturers or having a different structure. The point is that one type of material is able to block the sound of one frequency, and the difference in structures will allow several other sound frequencies to be blocked. This will make soundproofing more effective.

Anti-creak materials (anti-creaks)

The task of the anti-creak is to act as a gasket between the rubbing elements. The most popular elements of solving this problem are:

• BitoPlast - the basis of the material is polyurethane on a self-adhesive basis. Durable and waterproof insulator with good soundproofing properties.
• Madeleine is a fabric with an adhesive backing. The material can be used both on the inside and on the front surface of the car interior trim. Available in black and grey.

Liquid soundproofing

In addition to the listed materials, liquid noise insulation is widely used for car processing.

To make the car noiseless, it needs to be processed not only from the inside of the cabin, but also from the outside. In particular, wheel arches and the engine compartment are treated with liquid noise. In addition to the main purpose, it serves as an excellent anti-corrosion, anti-gravel coating.

Therefore, even if the sound insulation of the car satisfies the owner, additional processing with liquid Shumkov wheel arches it certainly won't be redundant.

Do-it-yourself soundproofing of the car interior

Before you start soundproofing the cabin with your own hands, you need to do the most time-consuming part of the work - free the car interior.

In the doors of the cabin, on the rear shelf, vibration isolation is mandatory around the places where the sound speakers are installed. A thin (light) vibration isolation is attached to the ceiling. Heavy material, having heated up in the sun, will fall off under the weight of its own weight.

You need to start gluing Shumka from the edge, gradually tearing off the protective film and immediately rolling the surface of the insulation with a roller. The material should be joined with an overlap, leaving no gaps. Plastic, wherever possible, is glued with anti-creak. Particular attention should be paid to the ends and joints.

Of course, it will not work to make the interior of the car completely soundproof, and besides, it is impossible to stick Shumka on the glass at all, but to achieve good result quite real, and with their own hands. No special qualifications are required for this. The main thing is to have a desire.

Soundproofing car doors with your own hands is the choice of most car owners.

The fact is that such work is quite simple and does not require complex technical skills. The procedure is carried out to reduce external noise and vibrations of the body of the car itself, inevitable during operation. The latter is especially true if you plan to install a powerful audio system in the car.

What material to choose

Modern industry produces a variety of materials for noise and vibration isolation. Some car owners prefer to use cheaper industrial materials, but they usually do not withstand prolonged intense vibration. Therefore, specialized absorbent materials intended for use in motor vehicles are a priority choice. All of them are divided into two large groups:

1. noise absorbers;
2. vibration dampers.

The structure of noise absorbers (vibroton, splenitis) is cellular. In this case, the cells are not arranged in even rows, but randomly. Sound waves, falling into them, scatter and subside. Additional insulation is an aluminum coating of materials.

Vibration dampeners (vibroplast, vizomat) are represented by heavy compounds based on bitumen and foamed polymers. Noise and vibration isolation of car doors is ensured by a snug fit of the layer polymer material to metal and dampening natural vibrations.

Proper sound insulation of car doors involves the use of both types of insulation. In this case, the thickness of the layers and the places of their application depend on the required level of sound absorption. So, if the work is carried out in order to somewhat reduce the level of noise penetrating from the street, an average or minimum is sufficient protective coating. For installation of audio systems protection against extraneous sounds should be maximum.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, you should prepare the car: remove the door trim, protective films, remnants of old soundproofing or anti-corrosion coating. In general, there is no need to remove the mechanisms of power windows and door locks. However, in order to ensure convenient conditions work, it is recommended to do so.

The internal surfaces of the doors are cleaned of dirt and dust. Areas where rust is present are cleaned to bare metal. Taking into account the fact that such places are hidden from view, they can be treated with a rust converter and anti-corrosion mastic. It is impossible to mount sound insulation on rusty areas.

Before starting the installation of sound insulation, all surfaces on which materials will be glued should be degreased with special compounds, gasoline or alcohol. Pasting begins only after complete drying of the surfaces.

Soundproofing installation

In the maximum version, the first layer of vibration isolation is glued to the inner surface of the outer layer of the door. The material is recommended to be glued in long strips, with a slight overlap on each other. The entire accessible surface is glued.

The second layer is glued noise absorber. It should be mounted in the widest possible layers. The result is a two-layer coating that dampens vibration and captures sound waves.

For better insulation, the inner layer of the door is treated in the same way. Wherein technological holes in the doors they are sealed with special aluminum foil, on top of which layers of material are applied. When processing, it is necessary to take into account the trajectory of the movement of the cables and lock drives.

The door trim itself is also processed. All its joints must be filled with sealant. After that, the inner surface of the skin is glued with a sound-absorbing coating. This avoids squeaks from the skin itself, which sometimes occur on budget cars.

Pros and cons of soundproofing

Like any other refinement that distinguishes the car from the factory design, door noise has its positive and negative sides. The advantages of soundproofing include:

• a significant increase in the comfort of the car;
• when selling your car, you can evaluate it higher than similar offers;
• powerful speakers can be installed in the door;
• doors become heavier, as a result of which they close softer and more solidly, without making extraneous sounds.

The list of negative aspects of vibration isolation is shorter:

• doors weighted due to insulation sag more often, requiring repair or replacement of hinges;
• some drivers, when operating such a car, may make mistakes related to the poor audibility of external sounds (the driver did not hear the signal of a neighboring car and got into an accident).

Perhaps this is where the disadvantages of sound insulation are exhausted. The question of how to soundproof car doors is simple. Therefore, if desired, financial opportunities and a certain amount of adventurism to carry out this manipulation of one's own vehicle any driver who knows how to use the simplest tool can.

Noises penetrating into the car interior while driving deprive the movement on it of comfort, make it difficult to communicate with passengers and interfere with listening to music. If the road takes a long time, then constant extraneous noise leads to rapid fatigue, which affects traffic safety. In this case, there is only one way out - to install additional noise insulation. Factory insulation often does not cope successfully with its task. Asking for help from specialists in the service will require considerable investment. At the same time, soundproofing a car with your own hands is quite within the power of almost every motorist. Consider how to do it correctly and inexpensively.

Before proceeding with the soundproofing of the car interior, it is necessary to determine the purpose and task of this soundproofing. In other words, with what you want to get as a result. If you want to reduce engine noise from engine compartment, then first of all it is necessary to pay attention to the partition between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment.

In the event that the goal is to improve the quality of music in the passenger compartment, then doors and speaker locations will require close attention. When the task is to achieve maximum silence in the car, then you need to make a comprehensive soundproofing. Soundproofing will also be required on the floor, ceiling, trunk, wheel arches.

All the necessary material can be divided into three categories: vibration isolation (vibra), noise isolation (shumka) and anti-creak. Vibra is bitumen-based sheets with a thickness of usually 2 to 4 mm. There are slightly thinner and thicker depending on the manufacturer. Its task is to dampen the vibration of the rolled metal sheet from which the car body is made.

On the one hand, such sheets have an aluminum layer, which also performs the task of thermal insulation. If in places with a temperate climate this property is not very noticeable, then where in winter the temperature drops significantly below zero, this quality of vibration allows the car interior to not cool for a long time.

The second most important material is the sound insulation itself. It is sold in rolls and is a lightweight porous material whose task is to absorb sound (noise). The thickness of such material can be up to 10 mm or more.

Another material that cannot be dispensed with to achieve complete silence in the cabin is anti-creak. This is a self-adhesive fabric, which is applied to the joints of the adjacent elements of the interior, thereby getting rid of the unpleasant creak that occurs when the parts are rubbed against each other.

Now about those tools without which you can not do. This is a building hair dryer, which is required to heat the bitumen base of the vibra. Before applying to the metal surface of the body, it must be heated to softness and ductility. Only in this case, the vibra can be tightly laid, given the necessary shape and securely fastened.

This will require a special roller, with which the entire surface of the material to be laid is rolled until a reliable adhesion to the base is achieved. Before laying the vibration, for better adhesion to the metal, the entire surface to be glued must be degreased with a solvent, for example, white spirit, which is applied to a clean rag.

For cutting the material you will need a knife, ruler, tape measure, marker. By doing complex sound insulation a complete dismantling of the car interior will be required, for which you will need your own set of tools, including wrenches, screwdrivers and other devices.

Such a nuance. If the work is carried out in the hot summer, then it will be possible to do without a building hair dryer. It is enough to put the vibra for 5-10 minutes in the sun so that it reaches the condition necessary for work. The car must also be in an open place so that the body is warm and not cold.

Soundproofing the hood and trunk

It will not be possible to completely get rid of engine noise in the engine compartment, no matter how much material it takes. Noise insulation of the hood serves more for thermal insulation of the engine, preventing it from cooling down quickly in the cold season.

To perform this operation, you will need a vibration, for example, silver and Shumka up to 10 mm thick. If the factory noise insulation of the hood on your car is missing, then you can make the noise layer thicker. In case if factory insulation present, it should not be removed. It will be correct to install on top of it.

The installation technology is always the same. First you need to degrease the surface with a solvent. Then heat the prepared (cut out) pieces of vibra with a building hair dryer. Put them in place and carefully roll them out with a roller. In the process of rolling, it is necessary to use a hair dryer to improve the plasticity of the material. Since this material is intended to reduce vibration, it can be applied in pieces at a close distance from each other (a centimeter - one and a half). Noise insulation should be glued in one piece over the vibra, otherwise sound waves will penetrate through the cracks.

The noise insulation of the hood should not be too heavy, otherwise the retaining shock absorbers of the hood cover will wear out quickly. And not very thick, so that you can close the hood without interference.

Noise isolation of the trunk is carried out in the same way. It is first necessary to remove all trim from the trunk, and then degrease the surface to be insulated with a solvent. If there is a spare tire niche in the trunk, it must also be carefully insulated. Such measures help to significantly improve the noise mode in rear-wheel drive models, reducing noise from cardan shaft And main gear(reducer).

Soundproofing car doors

Particular attention should be paid to the soundproofing of car doors, as they contribute, perhaps, the most huge contribution to ensure silence in the cabin. It will be right to start with pasting inside outside of the door. As usual, the surface is first degreased. In order not to make the doors too heavy, we can recommend laying not a solid large piece of vibration isolation, but several small ones at a close distance from each other. This will get rid of rapid wear door hinges.

In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe location of the speakers, to improve the sound quality, it is better to stick the Shumkov thicker, in other places - thinner. This will save money. If you do not have a goal to achieve perfect quality sound of music, you can still save money and not seal all the technological openings of the door. Otherwise, you need to carefully seal everything to get a closed acoustic space, which significantly improves the sound at low frequencies.

The thickness of the noise insulation on the side of the door card must be chosen so that it can be easily put into place (the door card).

Soundproofing floors, ceilings and roofs

To make soundproofing the floor and roof, you will have to dismantle almost the entire interior trim, remove the seats and the ceiling. You may need an assistant to remove the seats, as it is very inconvenient to pull them out alone.

To dismantle the ceiling, it is better to use special tool, since the clips or caps with which it is attached to the roof often break. Therefore, special care is required, as it is not always possible to buy new clips to replace.

The insulation installation technology is conventional - first we degrease all surfaces with a solvent. Vibra gluing on the floor should be done in large overlapping pieces, carefully rolling everything with a roller so that there are no air bubbles. Vibration isolation is made on a bitumen basis and has anti-corrosion properties, protecting the glued metal from rust. But this is true only in the case of a snug fit and the absence of air bubbles. Therefore, in order for everything to be correct, monitor the quality of rolling. Vibration isolation for the floor can be taken thicker, and thinner Shumkov. As a result of this work, the noise from the wheels and the propeller shaft (for rear-wheel drive cars) will be significantly reduced while driving.

In order to properly soundproof the roof, you should use thin material:

• Firstly, thick vibration isolation has a significant weight. Because of this, in summer, under the influence of the sun, it will tend to peel off and sag;
• secondly, a thick layer of insulation can prevent the installation of the ceiling in place and then everything will have to be redone;
• thirdly, the additional weight of the roof will shift the center of gravity of the car upward, which will lead to a decrease in its cornering stability.

As practice shows, even a thin layer of noise insulation is enough to virtually eliminate the noise from drops during rain.

To completely get rid of noise, you can not do without the treatment of wheel arches. Noise insulation should be applied both to the arches themselves and to the plastic protection of the arches from the inside. This will significantly reduce the noise from the pebbles while driving and provide a comfortable ride.

Video “Do-it-yourself noise isolation”

If you are one of those drivers who wants to drive in complete silence and not hear the sound of the wheels on the road, it's time for you to think about organizing the soundproofing of the car. This video will help you take the first step.

The main source of extraneous noise in the car interior is the wheels, so special attention should be paid to soundproofing the floor. Currently, there are several schemes for its installation. Let's dwell on the most popular installation methods, and determine which scheme is better.

Is floor soundproofing necessary? This refinement will reduce the noise level from the wheels, transmission and engine and suspension. Efficiency directly depends on the selected installation scheme and materials.

Floor soundproofing installation schemes with materials:

Approximate cost of materials:

• Budget option (2 layers, vibration damper of small thickness and heat insulator), up to 4,000 rubles.
• A popular option (2 layers, vibration damper and sound absorber), about 4,000 rubles.
• The maximum effect (3 layers of vibration damper, sound absorber and sound insulator), more than 4,000 rubles.

HOW TO MAKE SOUND INSULATION OF THE FLOOR INDEPENDENTLY

Preparatory work: remove the seats (on XRAY, Vesta, Grant / Kalina 2), carpet, regular sound insulation, then clean and degrease the metal surface.
Soundproofing installation procedure:

1st layer: we heat up the vibration damper with a construction hair dryer and stick it on the floor butt to butt. Roll with a hard roller. We glue the material as high as possible on the engine compartment panel (it is not necessary to remove the dashboard). We glue thicker material on the wheel arches and the floor tunnel (Bimast Bomb Premium or Shumoff Mix F). We cover 100% of the area, as the floor is one of the noisiest places.

2nd layer: we paste the sound-absorbing or heat-insulating material with a solid carpet.

3rd layer: apply a soundproofing membrane on 100% of the surface.
Assembly in reverse order (installation of standard noise insulation, seats, etc.).

Even in a new car, the enjoyment of driving can be spoiled by the constant noise coming from tires, other cars, wind, etc. A lot of extraneous sounds gradually begin to annoy even people with very stable nervous system. To save yourself from annoying noise, you need to do great job installation of soundproofing. Where to make a car soundproofing, and is it possible to do the work yourself? Let's try to figure it out.

Noise isolation in the car

Over time at constant driving By Russian off-road plastic and metal elements of the frame begin to loosen and create an unpleasant noise, knock, rattle. The vibrations created by movement cause all poorly reinforced parts to move and make noise, creating a variety of noise. This brings a lot of discomfort. Some drivers may get migraines from the constant noise and lose focus on the road. Even the good quality listening to music becomes very unpleasant, given such a peculiar accompaniment. You have to speak loudly so that the interlocutor can understand the speech, it is impossible to concentrate on anything.

Sometimes even in a new car, the level of constant driving noise is at high level. This is especially true for cars Russian production. Therefore, many are interested in the question, for example, of a VAZ car?". Noise-insulating layers are thin there, and in some places they simply do not exist. Therefore, sound insulation is a problem not only for old cars, but also for new ones. And self-assembly"Shumki" is the most optimal way out. You can entrust this process to professionals, but it will be a rather expensive service, and no one will give you guarantees that over time there will be no problems that arise from improper installation of sound insulation. How do you soundproof your car yourself? First, consider the options for the materials that will be used.

Vibration isolation

Vibration dampers are bitumen-mastic elastic layers that are used to soundproof the cabin. Their main task is to reduce the level of vibration that is created due to engine operation, wheel friction on the roadway, etc.

Sometimes noise is created by vibrations of various elements in the cabin itself. To eliminate such vibrations, you can use any vibration-insulating material that is made on a rubber basis. The rubberized material can be covered with a metallized membrane.

Vibrating material is sold in rolls. One side has an adhesive layer and a marking grid. The material can be lined on the surface in small elements or whole sheets. High-quality vibration material lays down well on the surface. The rubber structure allows it to gently bend around uneven surfaces. This material is most often used in order to make the soundproofing of car doors correctly with your own hands, how to do this, we will consider below.

After all the vibration isolation elements are installed, the sound insulation is glued on top with a continuous layer. Currently, there are a huge variety of types of sound insulation, let's try to figure out which one will be better.

Anti-creak materials

Squeaks in the car can occur when rubbing metal or plastic elements. Previously, to eliminate such sounds, foam rubber, fabric and even plasticine were used as lining material. Now everything is much simpler, because in the store you can purchase specialized material for eliminating creaking at a relatively low cost.

Anti-creak pads are most often made on the basis of polyurethane, less often fabric is used. The material has a sticky layer, which facilitates its installation in the right place. The water-repellent outer layer has a decorative monochromatic matte coating, which allows the material to be used for treating open surfaces and their joints. This material is presented in two colors: black and gray.

soundproofing material

Exists big variety soundproofing materials that have different structure and direction. Consider the most popular options that you can use if you want to do the installation yourself.

1. Vibroplast Silver. The material is very flexible and elastic, which allows it to be mounted on a surface of various shapes without heating. One side of the material has a sticky surface, the other has a foil layer, lined into squares with a side of 5 cm. The weight of the material is 3 kg per square meter. The material is resistant to moisture and corrosion, does not absorb water.
2. "Splen 3004". which has good thermal insulation properties. On the one hand, an adhesive layer is applied for the convenience of attaching the material. The thickness of the mat depends on the brand: 3004 - 4 mm, 3008 - 8 mm, 3002 - 2 mm. The material can be operated at temperatures from +70 to -40 gr. Celsius.
3. "Accent 10". This material is sound absorbing. On the one hand, a sticky layer is applied, inside there is a flexible polyurethane layer, outside - a metallized membrane. Such matter allows you to absorb up to 90% of sounds, working temperature regime- from -40 to +100 gr. Celsius. The thickness of the material is 10 mm, it is used most often on the inner surface of the hood.
4. Shumoff Harmeton. In its structure, this material resembles foam rubber, only its sound insulation properties are much higher. It takes the desired shape quickly enough, and returns to its original position within 45 minutes. This allows you to easily install it, and then the material will fill all the recesses and holes.
5. "Harmeton A15". The material is very similar in its characteristics to the previous version, the difference is only in the surface relief. She has bulges. This allows you to more productively disperse sounds.

The choice of material depends on which zone will be processed. In doors, for example, it is better to use a lighter and more voluminous material; a bituminous sound insulator is suitable for the floor. Focus on functional features each zone.

A layer of noise insulation on the hood will not save you from the sounds emitted by the motor. But it can significantly increase heat retention, which is important in the cold season. The material must be of a complex purpose, the presence of an external heat-reflecting layer is mandatory. The heat-insulating coating should not deform and change its shape under the influence of high temperatures.

If present factory soundproofing, it must be dismantled. The new insulation is laid in one layer between the stiffeners. Do not load the hood too much, this can cause problems with shock absorbers. Choose light material, 1-1.5 cm thick. When inner surface the hood will be processed, you can install on top of the regular sound insulation provided in the car by the manufacturer.

Most cars do not have factory door soundproofing or it is thin and primitive. But a lot of noise enters the cabin through a metal door, so its isolation is necessary procedure which will significantly reduce the noise level. Below is an instruction that will allow you to understand how to make soundproofing car doors with your own hands.

Choose lightweight material for soundproofing doors. Otherwise, you risk getting the door to sag or the hinges to break. Release the door from the protective decorative cover. When processing the surface, make sure that the sound insulation does not interfere with the operation of the mechanisms. Inner part cover the doors with a layer of vibration isolation, then paste over the surface with sound insulation. Such a layer will provide not only noise protection, but also thermal protection. How to properly soundproof a car with your own hands so that the music becomes better and more voluminous? The place where the speaker is built into the door can be covered with vibration dampers, thanks to which the sound quality will be better, and the music will become more voluminous.

Soundproofing arches and trunk

The place where it is stored spare wheel, should be completely pasted over with vibration and noise insulation. The same applies to all plastic parts of the trunk. When moving, vibration sounds should not be created.

While driving, the tires come into contact with the roadway, emitting an unpleasant and quite loud noise, this is especially noticeable in winter time when studded tires are used. To reduce the noise level, it is necessary to make soundproofing of the car arches and the surface of the trunk.

To process the wheel arches, you need to remove the plastic fender liner and thoroughly clean the surface to be treated. If there are no fender liner, then immediately proceed to the processing of metal arcs. Most suitable material for these purposes is When applied, it forms protective layer, which is resistant to temperature extremes, the effects of alkalis, acids and salts.

The application itself is carried out in several layers. detailed instructions on the use of liquid noise insulation is presented on the product packaging itself. Follow all manufacturer's requirements, only in this case you can get a layer that meets the right requirements.

Roof soundproofing

Soundproofing the roof significantly reduces the noise coming from the street during rain or hail. Due to the dense structure of soundproofing materials, the roof surface will give off less heat in cold weather. The thermal insulation of the roof will become much better due to the low thermal conductivity of the material. How to soundproof your car roof Let's try to answer this question.

Remove the roof lining and evaluate the condition of the standard sound insulation. If it departs in some places, then it is better to remove it completely. Bituminous insulation materials are best left on if they are holding tight. Clean the metal surface and remove adhesive residue and dirt.

First we apply vibration isolation. We try to cover the entire surface of the roof, leaving only the stiffeners uncovered. If they are closed with insulation, then the ventilation of the amplifiers will be disturbed and condensation will accumulate. The next layer will be soundproofing material. You can use "Shumoff Garmeton" or "Garmeton A15". We fasten the layers butt-to-butt, covering the entire surface with the exception of the stiffeners. In conclusion, we put the casing in place.

The floor is one of the biggest sources of noise in a car. At the moment of movement, the noise from the wheels with poor sound insulation is very clearly audible in the cabin. The first step is to prepare the floor for the installation of soundproofing. Chairs need to be removed. We detach the decorative layer of fabric from the body and remove it. metal elements the frame must be cleaned of dirt and degreased.

First we lay the vibrating material. It is better to do this with several separate cuts. We connect the material butt to butt. In the place where the legs of the driver and passenger are located on the right, you need to bend the standard sound insulation and lay several elements of the new "shumka" under it, trying to glue the surface at the highest possible level under the dashboard.

The second layer is applied sound absorber. It should be laid out with a continuous carpet. You can use a material that has a heat-insulating membrane. And in conclusion, a soundproof film is glued.

Advantages and disadvantages of soundproofing

Without a doubt, soundproofing is a very useful component of a car interior. If the "shumka" is installed correctly, then while driving it becomes comfortable to be inside the car: there are no extraneous noise outside and inside. Nothing vibrates or knocks. Your favorite music will play in volume. If you do the whole process with your own hands, then you can get by with a small amount of 2000-3000 rubles.

There are also negative aspects when installing additional sound insulation. Some materials reach a weight of 3 kg per square meter. If you add up the entire surface to be treated, then you get an impressive weight. Total soundproofing can give additional load at 40-50 kg. This may affect the operation of some parts and components of the vehicle. When using heavy and voluminous, for example, when processing doors, sagging or even breaking off the loop may occur.

Helpful information

Be careful when installing soundproofing. If you make mistakes, then some parts may be deformed when you put them in place. In order to properly soundproof the car with your own hands, dismantle the parts with the utmost care, remember that most of the interior design details are made of plastic, they are very easy to damage.

Do not use too much insulating material. More doesn't mean better. Laying "Shumka" in several layers is not only pointless, but also undesirable. After all, the total weight of the car increases.

At incorrect installation"Shumki" condensation may occur, which will cause corrosion of the body. The gluing must be of high quality, the presence of slots and holes in the internal cavities of the body, for example, in the doors or the roof, is not allowed.

Finally

Installing soundproofing is a long, painstaking process that requires great responsibility and accuracy. Doing this work yourself can save you a significant amount of money if you do it right. Otherwise, when making mistakes, you risk getting corrosion on the body, some parts may deform and sag. Therefore, before starting the installation of sound insulation, carefully plan the whole process in order to avoid mistakes in the future. To make the car soundproofing with your own hands, follow the instructions and be careful.