Many motorists who read the pages of the site, in letters and comments, ask the question: "How to properly repair, clean, adjust and adjust the carburetor of your car?" What is the sequence of actions? After all, the articles of the site reflect this or that moment of repair or adjustment, but there is no general instruction that gives a complete picture of the actions. Experienced repairmen do not really need it (they already know what, how and for what to do), but for car owners who first decided to put the carburetor in order on their own, it is best to have a clear procedure before their eyes.

First, we prepare the tools:.

Solex carburetor repair procedure

1. We remove the carburetor from the car engine.

We remove the carburetor from the car engine by first disconnecting all tubes, hoses and wires from it. The operation must be carried out with the negative terminal of the battery removed, the car is on the handbrake.

1. Checking the removed Solex carburetor.

Check the integrity of the carburetor, the operability of its mechanisms and devices. At the same time, the scale and need for repairs are assessed. Pre-clean it from external contamination with a brush and acetone. Cm. . Be sure to check the carburetor for deformation.

1. We disassemble the Solex carburetor completely.

Ensure a clean area for disassembly. For safety reasons, you can take photographs of the disassembly stages. Cm. . When disassembling, we carry out defect detection of parts (bent elements, torn diaphragms and gaskets are replaced, and the missing ones are added). We check the tightness of the fittings in the body and cover. We compare the parameters of the jets, diffusers with the nominal value. To do this, we select our model and make a reconciliation.

1. We clean and clean the carburetor.

for example, cleaning the CXX channels

1. We collect the carburetor.

We assemble the Solex carburetor in reverse order. More details. We unscrew the screws for adjusting the "quantity" and "quality" of the fuel mixture at idle speed by 2-3 turns from the stop.

start of assembly of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

1. We adjust the carburetor, check its systems and mechanisms.

At this stage, we carry out several preliminary key adjustments to the carburetor systems. How accurately and correctly the adjustment is made depends on how the carburetor will work later and whether it will work at all.

Here is a list of carburetor adjustments.

When carrying out maintenance, repairs, it becomes necessary to carry out its complete disassembly. The order of disassembly is arbitrary, but still it is worth adhering to a certain algorithm. Consider the disassembly and assembly of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex, which was installed on the engines of VAZ 2108, 21081, 21083, 2109, 21091, 21093, 21099, etc.

Required tools

You will need almost the entire set of tools presented on the page. It is the simplest one, no complicated fixtures are required. The second condition is the cleanliness of the workplace, as even a small amount of pollution can create big problems.

Disassembly procedure for carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- Remove the carburetor from the car engine.

- Remove the upper part (cover) of the carburetor, having previously unscrewed, with a Phillips screwdriver, the five screws that secure it to the body.

five screws securing the carburetor cover 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

We disassemble it first.

removing the upper part (cover) of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- Using a thin punch (2.5 mm) and a light hammer, knock out the axis of the floats.

removing the axis of the floats on the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

We extract it and remove the floats. We work carefully so as not to damage the cover posts, into which this axis is threaded, and also to prevent deformation of the float bracket.

- Remove the cardboard gasket from the "cover".

floats removed from carburetor cover, needle valve and cardboard gasket

- We turn out the body of the needle valve.

For this we use an open-end or box spanner for 11. Disconnect the body and its copper (or aluminum) sealing ring.

turning the needle valve body out of the carburetor cover 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- We turn out the solenoid valve of the EPHH system with a key 13.

removing the solenoid valve from the carburetor cover

Remove the rubber O-ring and metal cup from it. We take out the fuel jet of the idle system.

- Unscrew, using a key 13, the carburetor fuel filter plug.

We take it out together with a copper O-ring and a strainer.

- We turn out the fuel inlet fitting.

We do this with a 13 key. We take out the fitting and its copper sealing ring.

fuel inlet fitting and fuel mesh filter removed from the Solex carburetor cover

- Remove the choke control lever.

To do this, use a 14 key to unscrew the bolt of its attachment to the "cover" and carefully, trying not to lose, the fixing ball underneath is detached. Then we take out the ball and the compression spring located under it.

removing the Solex carburetor choke control lever

- We disassemble the starting device.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four screws securing its cover. We take it back, while simultaneously removing the thrust on the diaphragm from engagement with the pin on the lever and then from the grooves in the device body. It is most convenient to keep the air damper open. Remove the cover, the diaphragm with the rod and the spring under it.

elements of the carburetor starting device 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- Remove the spring of the air damper opening mechanism.

- Remove the carburetor air damper by unscrewing the two screws securing it on the axis with a Phillips screwdriver. If the screws do not loosen, file their ends with a file. After that, the axle is freely removed from the cover.

removing the air damper opening spring, removing the air damper itself and removing its axis

All the cover is disassembled.

We disassemble the body of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- Remove the rubber sealing ring on the idle air channel tube.

rubber o-ring on the idle fuel channel pipe

- Remove the mounting bracket for the air damper drive rod ("suction") by unscrewing the screw of its fastening with a Phillips screwdriver.

removing the bracket for fastening the shell of the air damper drive of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- We remove the air jets of the main dosing systems together with the emulsion tubes.

On carburetors of the 2108 Solex family, they are structurally combined. Therefore, we turn them out of the emulsion wells with a slotted screwdriver.

extraction of air jets GDS with emulsion tubes from emulsion wells of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- We take out the spray of the accelerating pump.

To do this, use a slotted screwdriver to pry it under its upper nose and gently push it up. Remove the rubber O-ring from the sprayer body.

removal of the carburetor accelerator pump sprayer 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- Unscrew the fuel jets of the main metering systems with a thin slotted screwdriver.

They are located at the bottom of emulsion wells. After turning them out, you can get them out of there with a toothpick or simply shake them out.

extraction of GDS fuel jets from emulsion wells

- We take out the small diffusers from both chambers of the carburetor.

The easiest way to get them is with pliers.

extraction of diffusers

- We disassemble the accelerating pump.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four screws securing its cover. We remove it together with the diaphragm and the return spring. If the parts do not separate well, you can try to disconnect them with a knife.

- We disassemble the economizer of power modes.

We unscrew the three screws securing its cover to the carburetor body with a Phillips screwdriver. We remove it, as well as the diaphragm and the spring. Unscrew the economizer jet with a slotted screwdriver and remove it. We do not touch the economizer valve unnecessarily.

elements of the economizer of power modes of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- Remove the screw for adjusting the "amount" of the fuel mixture.

Prying with a slotted screwdriver, disconnect the wire contact from the screw tip. We unscrew the screw and remove it and the spring on it. We unscrew the screw of the plastic wire holder with a slotted screwdriver and remove the wire from the carburetor body.

removing the screw for adjusting the "amount" of the fuel mixture from the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- Remove the throttle valve control sector.

We unscrew the screw of its fastening with a Phillips screwdriver. We remove the bracket located on the sector, pry the sector with a screwdriver, forcefully separate it from the throttle valve drive lever.

removal of the first chamber throttle control sector

- Use a thin slotted screwdriver to unscrew the “quality” screw of the fuel mixture from the channel in the carburetor body and grab it with tweezers and remove it from there.

Remove the rubber O-ring from it. Sometimes, when the screw is unscrewed, the ring remains in the bore of the carburetor body. From there, you can get it with an awl.

- Remove the cam of the accelerator pump drive from the throttle valve axis of the first chamber by unscrewing the nut of its fastening with a key 11. There is a special washer under the cam, we also remove it.

remove the cam of the accelerator pump drive

- Remove the throttle valves of both carburetor chambers.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws for their fastening to the axles. If the screws do not loosen, then their ends are riveted. We grind them down a little with a file.

removing the throttle valves of both chambers of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

- We take out the damper axles.

Remove the spring and the plastic sleeve from the axis of the first chamber. To remove the axle of the second chamber, we pry it with a screwdriver and remove the axle lock washer.

removed throttle shafts

1. Carburetor body 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex.

2. The axis of the throttle valve of the first chamber of the carburetor.

3. Axle of the throttle valve of the second chamber of the carburetor.

4. Throttle valves of the first and second chambers.

5. Throttle valve mounting screws.

6. Return spring of the axis of the first chamber.

7. Plastic washer.

8. Metal washer.

9. Cam of the pressure accelerating pump of the carburetor.

10. Nut for fastening the cam UN.

11. The lock washer of the throttle valve shaft of the first chamber.

The entire carburetor is disassembled.

We assemble the Solex carburetor in the reverse order.

When tightening the screw connections, do not apply much force, in order to avoid deformation or damage to the thread.

Notes and additions

- It is not necessary to press out the idle air jet from the carburetor cover, as well as the fuel intake pipes of the econostat and the transition system of the second chamber, unnecessarily. You can damage their seats. The same applies to pressing out the air jet, the jet of the starting device, the economizer valve of the power modes, the fittings of the crankcase ventilation system and the selection of the vacuum to the vacuum corrector, and draining the fuel into the tank.

- If it is not necessary to remove the carburetor choke, do not remove it. Loosening screws with sawn threads can damage the threads in the axles. In addition, when the damper is installed back, it may be displaced relative to its previous position, which will lead to its incomplete opening or closing, which is fraught with a malfunction of the carburetor and the impossibility of its normal adjustment.

- Everything written above applies to the removal and installation of the throttle valves of both chambers. If you still have to take them off, mark their original position just in case.

Even in the recent past, before the advent of injectors, VAZ cars were equipped with several types of carburetors, namely Solex, Ozone and Weber. Throughout the entire period of operation, I had to hear a lot of positive reviews about them, and over time, the popularity of these models only increased.

The functioning of carburetors from several different manufacturers is carried out according to the same principle, and they are designed to create a fuel-air mixture with its supply to the combustion chamber, where the mixture itself is ignited.

2. Needle-like.

3. Bubbling - used relatively rarely.

• The main thing to do is to carefully inspect the device, then thoroughly clean and wash it, removing dirt and other imperfections.
• Wash the float chamber and clean the strainer.
• Remove blockages from air jets.
• Perform float, trigger and idle adjustments.

Below you can watch a video on how to repair a VAZ 2107 carburetor with your own hands.

To remove the accelerator pump from the carburetor, unscrew the four fixing screws of its cover, and then another screw that directly secures the accelerator pump itself. Then pull it out of the case.

Quite often, adjusting the carburetor does not help its normal operation. And in these cases, you need to disassemble it and check what is the matter. The carburetor VAZ 2107, the repair of which is inevitable, implies the following actions:

• remove the return spring;
• unscrew the three-arm lever fastening screw with a curly screwdriver;
• remove the spring bracket (in this case, be sure to hold the screw);

• then, together with the rod, the lever and the spring are removed;
• unscrew the screws securing the throttle valve;
• remove the damper body;
• unscrew the fuel jet body using a wide blade screwdriver;
• remove the case;
• take out the jet;
• after that, you need to remove the rubber O-ring from the body;
• rinse the jet and the body (for this, use acetone);
• blow out the jet with compressed air (you can use an ordinary pump with a special needle);
• replace the rubber ring (if damaged).

Here you can take a break, carefully inspect the carburetor. Repair of VAZ 2107 does not like haste. It is advisable to carry out everything slowly, concentrating on each stage of work. This video will help you see everything with your own eyes.

• remove the heat-insulating gasket;
• we turn off the valve of the accelerating pump;
• the valve is removed with the spray gun and metal seal type gaskets.

It is believed that the easiest system is for a VAZ 2107 car. Do-it-yourself carburetor repair, in this case, will take place without any particular difficulties. The main thing is to clearly follow the instructions:

• all removed parts, including the spray, are washed in acetone (you can also use pure gasoline);
• blow through the parts with compressed air;
• we turn off the air type jets.

• remove the emulsion tubes of the dosing system (you can use a tap if they do not fall out by themselves);
• unscrew the fuel jets together with the body;
• separate the fuel jets from the body;
• unscrew the adjusting screw in the accelerating pump;
• remove the diaphragm and clean;
• inspect tubes that can be deformed (straightening with a wooden mallet will help);
• collect everything in place, following in reverse order.

By following these step-by-step instructions, you can repair the carburetor yourself. The price for these services from the master is not cheap. Therefore, adjusting and repairing the carburetor on your own has become relevant in our time.

1. We squeeze the spring of the telescopic rod of the starting device, ..
2. … We disconnect it from the three-arm choke lever.
3. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the five screws securing the top cover ...
4. ... and, holding the gasket, remove the cover (do not lose the screws).
5. We turn the top cover with the float upwards and check the tightness of the needle. To do this, put a rubber hose on the fuel supply connection and create a vacuum with your mouth or a pear. A defective or clogged needle will not hold the vacuum - the bulb will straighten.
6. We remove the telescopic rod from the top cover.
7. We knock out the axis of the float with a thin beard or a suitable pin.
8. Raise the float, ...
9. … Remove the needle from the float stop.
10. Next, remove the top cover gasket.
11. Using the "10" key, unscrew the needle valve seat.
12. There is a soft metal sealing washer under the seat.

We study the cone of the needle for working out (in the form of a rim at the point). If we do not find signs of wear, then we rinse the valve and the seat (first rinse the fuel filter) and check the needle tightness again. We replace the defective and worn out needle with a new one.

1. We pry on with an awl and remove the retaining ring of the throttle actuator thrust of the second chamber.
2. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the pneumatic drive housing to the carburetor housing, ..
3. … Remove the pneumatic actuator with a gasket.

We check the pneumatic actuator in the same way as the starting device and in case of a malfunction we change the diaphragm of the pneumatic actuator by analogy with the starting device.

Press on the diaphragm rod and close the inlet channel with your finger.

4. Let go of the lock nut on the traction ...

We insert a finger into the stem and fix the connection with a retaining ring.

6. Press on the pneumatic actuator rod, pushing the rod into the diaphragm mechanism housing. (When the shutter of the first chamber is closed, the second must remain closed).

In frequent cases, a malfunction of the pneumatic drive is caused by insufficient tightness of the channels through which the vacuum is supplied to the diaphragm. In this case, you need to check the lower surface of the carburetor body (see Disassembly and repair of the carburetor body). When tightening the carburetor attachment nuts, the temperature can cause the plane to be “driven”.

1. Remove the return spring.
2. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the bolt securing the three-arm lever ...
3. … And, holding the lever, take out the spring mounting bracket.
4. We remove the lever from the body along with the rod ...
5. ... as well as a spring.
6. We unscrew the two bolts securing the throttle body ...
7. ... and separate the throttle body.
8. Using a screwdriver with a wide sting, unscrew the idle system fuel jet housing.
9. We take it out.
10. We remove the jet.
11. We take out the rubber sealing ring from the body.

Do-it-yourself carburetor repair or at a service may be required after a certain mileage of any car, or after careless disassembly and cleaning. In this article, we will look at the main malfunctions of the fuel system and carburetor, and how to get rid of them, and indeed, how to repair a car's carburetor with our own hands, (or adjust) without resorting to the services of a car service, and what is needed for this.

Of course, in one article it is unrealistic to describe the repair of carburetors of all models, and this is not necessary, since the principle of operation and restoration of most carburetors of many cars is practically the same, with the exception of some nuances (for rather rare cars).

Therefore, this article will describe the repair of the most common Solex carburetor (or DAAZ-2108), which is installed at the factory on VAZ front-wheel drive cars, but many craftsmen install them on other cars (for example, on UAZ, Volga and other cars with with a regular carburetor quite high fuel consumption). And on the example of repairing this carburetor, it will be possible to learn the skills of diagnostics (troubleshooting, troubleshooting of parts) and repair of almost any carburetor, including foreign cars.

But before removing the carburetor from the engine, prepare a clean and free area on a workbench or table. Cover the surface of the table or workbench with a sheet of clean white paper, on which small details will be clearly visible. And remember that in this business, the key to success is purity. It is also necessary to stock up on clean containers (boxes) for small parts.

It should be noted that screwdrivers intended for unscrewing jets, etc., must have normal (not torn off) edges, it is better to use new screwdrivers for disassembling the carburetor, which should be kept especially for repairing the carburetor. The carburetor itself should be removed from the engine and thoroughly washed from the outside of dirt. Only then can it be disassembled. And below will be described diagnostics and repair of the carburetor in parts, it's easier for beginners.

Do-it-yourself carburetor repair - inspection and diagnostics in detail.

In carburetors of the Solex and DAAZ 2108 type, the throttle valves are opened sequentially, by a common mechanical lever drive, from the carburetor drive control pedal. The carburetor has:

The main parts of the carburetor.
1 - Air nozzle (diffuser) of the secondary mixing chamber, 2 - air nozzle of the main dosing system of the primary chamber; 3 - air damper of the primary chamber; 4 - sprayers of the accelerating pump; 5 - the diaphragm of the starting device; 6 - an adjusting screw; 7 - adjusting screw for the amount of the idle fuel mixture; 8 - branch pipe for supplying vacuum to the vacuum ignition timing controller; 9 - adjusting screw of the mixture quality (toxicity) at idle; 10 - throttle valve of the primary chamber; 11 - fitting for suction of crankcase gases; 12 - lever for driving the diaphragm of the accelerating pump; 13 - cam of the accelerating pump drive; 14 - diaphragm; 15 - economizer jet; 16 - economizer; 17 - diaphragm of the power mode economizer; 18 - EPHH solenoid valve; 19 - idle fuel jet; 20 - union for supplying fuel to the float chamber; 21 - nozzle for backflow of fuel into the tank; 22 - carburetor cover

The diaphragm economizer of power modes, with a significant opening of the throttle valves, injects additional fuel with a diaphragm 17 through the nozzle 15 (see Fig. 1 on the left) into the atomizer well of the main metering system of the primary chamber and this contributes to the enrichment of the fuel mixture.

Float mechanism.

To begin with, let's start diagnostics and repairs from the simplest: the float mechanism, which is responsible for the fuel level, which is very important. Indeed, with an increase or, conversely, a decrease in the fuel level from that required by the plant, the carburetor will enrich or deplete the composition of the working mixture at all engine operating modes.

The float mechanism of Solex and the new DAAZ (for eights) does not differ at all from previous models in principle of operation, but it has a slightly different constructive solution. Due to the fact that the float chamber covers the mixing chambers on both sides, instead of one float made of sheet brass on Ozones, the new float mechanism has two floats made of foamed (porous) ebonite. This design (similar to motorcycle carburettors) ensures that the fuel level is normal and that it is delivered to the emulsion wells of the main metering systems, even when the vehicle is tilted significantly.

In addition, instead of a separate seat and taper needle (on older models), the new carburetor has a non-separable fuel shutoff valve.

When checking and adjusting the required fuel level, it should be noted that the new float mechanism is regulated differently from the old DAAZ and Ozones. Only the measurement of the gap between the float and the plane of the connector on the cover with the gasket is the same. But it should be noted that in new carburetors there are two floats and the gap must be checked under each.

If the gaps are different, then the float holders should be bent and the same gaps between each float and the plane of the connector on the cover should be achieved, and then these gaps should be adjusted to the values ​​described in the factory instructions. The required gap of 1 ± 0.25 mm is achieved by bending the tongue 6 in Figure 3 (more on this below). By the way, it doesn’t hurt to unscrew the fitting and flush the mesh 11 shown in Figure 3.

Carburetor float chamber.
a - float mechanism, b - device for draining fuel into a gas tank;
1 - needle (shut-off) valve, 2 - gasoline supply channel, 3 - shut-off valve body, 4 - ball spring, 5 - needle valve depfer ball, 6 - tongue, 7 - bracket, 8 - float chamber, 9 - float, 10 - balancing hole, 11 - strainer, 12 - drain nipple with jet.

When adjusting the level of gasoline in the float chamber, there is an important nuance that is not described in the instructions. If on older carburetors, for example "Ozone", the gap is fixed at such a position when the float tongue just starts to touch the spring-loaded ball (in the locking cone needle), then in the new DAAZ (for eights), when fixing the required gap, the ball must be recessed by the tongue to the end (by the way, if you turn over the carburetor, then the ball is recessed to the end from the action of the weight of the floats).

Few people know this, and when adjusting the fuel level, the gap is incorrectly set, and from this the level differs significantly from the one recommended by the factory. The working mixture becomes leaner and many drivers begin to rejoice that the engine becomes more economical.

But the mixture also becomes leaner in those modes where it should be, on the contrary, enriched: starting the engine, starting the car, dynamic acceleration with the inclusion of the secondary chamber.

As a result, starting a cold engine deteriorates significantly, there are dips during engine operation, while fuel economy is minimal.

Required float clearance.

Therefore, when adjusting the fuel level, special accuracy should be achieved in accordance with the required recommendations of the plant (deviation from the required clearance shown in Figure 4 is only ± 0.25 mm). Over time, the shut-off valve of the float chamber begins to lose its tightness and the fuel level rises, which leads to an enrichment of the working mixture. Naturally, you need to get rid of this, but more on that below. First, I will describe how to check its tightness.

To do this, you can use a regular rubber bulb purchased from a pharmacy. We cut the nipple of the pear so that it fits tightly on the fuel inlet of the float chamber cover (you can not cut the pear, but use an adapter from a rubber hose of a suitable diameter).

The cover of the float chamber is removed and turned upside down with a split plane, while closing the bypass nipple with a finger (the fuel bypass nipple - its outer diameter is smaller than that of the inlet nipple). Now it remains to crush the pear with your fingers and watch it: if it regains its shape (that is, it draws in air), then this means that the shut-off valve is faulty.

A common cause of malfunction (leakage) of the check valve is the ingress of dirt between the cone of the needle and its seat. Therefore, before doing something, you should thoroughly rinse the shut-off valve itself and the fuel channels in the cap, and of course, rinse the fuel mesh filter under the plug, which is often clogged with dirt.

Exhaust gas toxicity reduction scheme.
1 - primary mixing chamber, 2 - throttle valve drive, 3 - screw for adjusting the quality of the working mixture, 4 - stop screw, 5 - channel of the nozzle of the idle system, 6 - solenoid valve, 7 - ignition switch, 8 - battery, 9 - electronic switch, 10 - ignition coil, 11 - distributor sensor, 12 - control unit.

The health check of this system is based on how it is supposed to work in good condition. When the ignition is turned on before starting the engine with the lock 7 (see Figure 2), when the throttle valve of the primary chamber of the carburetor is closed, the stop screw 4, in contact with the throttle valve actuator lever 2, closes the circuit between terminal number 5 of the electronic control unit 12 and ground (body) car.

In this case, the on-board voltage should be supplied (checked) to the solenoid valve 6 of the economizer (EPHH), which in this case should open the fuel supply through the idle fuel jet. When the car engine is started and when it is idling, the solenoid valve 6 (more precisely, at its terminal 18, see Figure 1) must have a voltage conducted through the wire from the control unit 12 (Fig. 2).

When the throttle valves are abruptly closed, that is, during forced idling, lever 2 should rest against the stop screw 4 and bypass terminal number 5 to the ground (body) of the machine. In this case, the voltage on the solenoid valve 6 (or 18 in Fig. 1) should be turned off, and the needle at the same time blocks the idle fuel jet, thereby cutting off the gasoline supply.

And when the engine crankshaft speed decreases to 1650 rpm, the solenoid valve 6 should again receive voltage from the control unit, while the fuel jet opens again and the supply of the combustible mixture from the idle system resumes and the engine runs confidently at idle speed.

It is quite simple to check the operability of this system, using a tester set to voltmeter mode and measuring constant voltage (within 0 - 12 V) and an assistant who monitors the tachometer and when the speed drops to 1650, the assistant notifies you about this, and you In turn, the appearance of voltage at the terminal of the solenoid valve is checked by connecting the positive probe of the tester to the valve terminal, and the negative one to the mass of the machine. If no voltage appears, check the integrity of the wires and the cleanliness of the terminals.

Well, if the voltage at the terminal appears, but the valve itself does not work, then the tester should be set to the ohmmeter or buzzer mode and check the integrity of the valve selenoid coil. In this case, we connect one probe of the tester to the valve terminal, and the second to ground. If the tester indicates an open circuit, the solenoid valve should be replaced. But often the valve does not work due to the ingress of dirt (its nozzle is clogged).

Below will be described the most common malfunctions of most carburetors and the power system in general, well, and methods for their elimination.

Common carburetor malfunctions (and not only it) and their elimination.

Lean mixture formation.

Signs of the engine running on a lean mixture are: pops (shots) from the carburetor (in the air filter), and the loss of its power (if it pulls poorly). It must be borne in mind that with the same signs, the engine works with early ignition. Therefore, before looking for a malfunction in the power system, it is necessary to check the ignition setting.

Shots from the carburetor occur due to the fact that the lean mixture burns slowly, and at the same time, when the intake stroke begins in the cylinder after exhaust gases are released, the combustion chamber still continues to burn out the working mixture. Therefore, the incoming combustible mixture is ignited and combustion propagates through the intake manifold to the carburetor. Also, shots from the carburetor can also be the result of a loose intake valve closure. To eliminate the malfunction in each specific case, it is necessary to accurately establish the cause that caused it.

It is necessary to identify and eliminate the listed malfunctions in the following order:

check the fuel supply using the methods indicated above; with normal fuel supply, check for air leaks in the connections. To do this, with the engine running, close the air damper and turn off the ignition, then inspect the joints of the carburetor and the intake manifold.

The appearance of wet spots of fuel indicates that there are leaks in these places. To troubleshoot, tighten the nuts and bolts. Only without fanaticism, a little bit, since the flange of the Solex or DAAZ 2108 carburetor is noticeably thinner than the flange on Ozone, and often the flange plane turns out to be caused by excessive tightening of the fasteners. And to eliminate this malfunction, you will need to tinker with lapping the flange plane on the plate with abrasive paste. Sometimes the plane is strongly driven, and before you bring it out on the slab with paste, you will need to bring the plane out first on an abrasive flat stone.

If no air leaks are detected, check the fuel level in the float chamber and adjust if necessary.

The level adjustment on the carburetors of most cars is made by bending the tongue 6 (Fig. 3) of the bracket 7 of the float 9 from the needle stop valve 1 to increase the level or in the opposite direction to decrease it. Only as I said, (unlike Ozone), when adjusting the fuel level on Solex and DAAZ 2108, their valve ball must be completely recessed. Simultaneously with the adjustment, the ease of movement of the float and the needle valve, as well as the tightness of its closing, is checked and the seat 3 of the valve is tightened. Naturally, the floats should not touch the walls of the float chamber.

Formation of a rich working mixture.

Signs of engine operation on a rich working mixture are: loss of power, shots at the muffler and black smoke from it, engine overheating, increased fuel consumption and engine oil dilution in the crankcase (in the sump), and formation of black carbon deposits. By the way, confirmation of a rich mixture (as well as a poor one) can be determined by the carbon deposits on the spark plugs, and in detail what the color of carbon deposits on the electrodes and the spark plug insulator means, I advise you to read here in.

The release of black smoke from the exhaust system with a rich mixture is explained by the presence of incompletely burnt, charred gasoline particles. And shots in the muffler come from the fact that some part of the gasoline (due to lack of air in the mixture) does not burn in the combustion chambers of the engine. And when exiting the exhaust pipe and combining with oxygen in the air, the unburned part of the gasoline instantly ignites and pops up.

But it should be borne in mind that shots from the muffler can occur due to the loose closure of some kind of exhaust valve. Therefore, before sinning on the carburetor in that it prepares a rich mixture, check and adjust if necessary.

And the loss of power with a rich mixture is due to the fact that the rich working mixture burns too slowly. Well, the liquefaction of engine oil in the engine sump comes from the condensation of unburned gasoline vapors, which appears on the walls of the engine cylinders and then flows down the walls into the sump, or is removed with oil scraper rings along with the engine oil.

The reasons for the formation of a rich working mixture can be:

loss of tightness of the stop valve of the float chamber (I wrote above how to restore the tightness) or weakening of the valve seat. From wear or sticking of the economizer valve, well, or from sticking the lever of the diaphragm drive of the power mode economizer.

From touching the float against the walls of the float chamber, from developing nozzles or cleaning them with steel wire, from incomplete opening of the air damper, from raising the fuel level in the float chamber above the level recommended by the factory (as mentioned above, it is eliminated by bending the tongue).

We replace the damaged jets with new ones from the repair kit, and restore the normal closing of the air damper as follows. We remove the air filter from the carburetor, loosen the cable fastening screw in the articulated clutch of the air damper axis lever, then pull the air damper drive knob 1.5 - 2 mm from its frontmost position and now fix the cable screw.

In this case, the air damper must be completely closed (must completely cover the diffuser). Well, what should be the fuel level and how to regulate it, I wrote above. If everything is fine with the fuel level, but the mixture is still rich, then you should check the tightness of the shut-off needle valve (I wrote above how to do this with a rubber bulb). You should also check the tightness of the economizer valve closing, if this does not help, then it is necessary to replace the nozzles with new ones, they may be worn out or have scratches in the calibration hole (checked with a lens).

Leakage of gasoline.

This occurs when the inlet plugs of the float chamber are loosely screwed in, as well as wear or loose rubber hoses, from wear of the rubber rings. Any leakage of gasoline must be immediately eliminated (determined visually and treated by replacing seals or hoses), since if fuel leaks, there is a danger of fire in the engine compartment. And of course, when gasoline leaks, its overrun is inevitable.

Difficulty starting a hot engine.

This malfunction can be caused from incomplete opening of the air damper in the carburetor diffuser, from an increased fuel level in the float chamber (overflow), and generally from a rich working mixture. To start the engine, press the gas pedal all the way, and if this does not help, then check and adjust (as described above) the length of the air damper drive cable so that it can be fully opened and closed by moving the handle in the passenger compartment. Well, how to check and adjust the gasoline level has been described above.

A cold engine will not start.

This may be due to the fact that the air damper does not close completely, when the handle of the manual drive (choke) is pulled out - how to check and adjust it was described above. Also, a cold engine may not start due to the lack of gasoline supply to the carburetor (checked by disconnecting the hose from the carburetor inlet and then manually pumping) if there is no gas supply, then you should check the fuel pump (how to do this there is a detailed article, link to it above in the text - malfunction of the fuel pump).

If it turns out that the fuel pump is working properly, then check that the fuel hose from the tank to the pump is normal. This is done using a tire pump connected to a hose, and a gurgling sound should be heard in the fuel tank when the pump is pumping. But after blowing out the hose, it is advisable to rinse the tank and the grid of the fuel receiver in the tank from dirt.

The engine runs erratically or stalls at idle.

In general, this malfunction can be caused by several reasons that can occur even with a working carburetor and power system. For example, if the ignition timing is incorrectly set, if spark plugs or one of the spark plugs are contaminated with carbon deposits, the motor is troit (how to identify an inoperative spark plug, how to check it and how to clean it correctly, we read it).

Also, such a malfunction may be due to a violation or improper adjustment of the valve clearances (about their adjustment, see the link above), due to a decrease (I advise you to read how to restore the compression of the motor without disassembling it), due to air leaks through the gaskets between the block head and the intake manifold, or through the gasket between the head and the block. How to replace the manifold gasket is read in, and the replacement of the head gasket is described

And before you climb into the carburetor and check the power system, you should check and, if necessary, eliminate the above malfunctions. After that, you should check that the throttle valve drive (and the valves themselves) is not jammed, and if everything is in order, then you should adjust the carburetor, or rather its idle system.

Idling system adjustment.

To adjust this, most carburetors have two screws, which are usually covered with plastic stop plugs (seals), shown in figure 5. These screws allow you to achieve normal idle speed with a normal ratio of air to fuel.

Usually, such an adjustment is carried out at a service station, since a CO meter (gas analyzer) is required for accurate adjustment. In this case, at first, the adjustment is performed within the limit bushings, and if this fails, then by unscrewing the adjusting screws, the stops of the bushings are broken, then they are removed, and by tightening the adjusting screws back, the adjustment described below is performed. If someone has a gas analyzer, then you can make the adjustment yourself.

Idle speed adjustment screws.
a - the location of the screws, b - the device and the operation of the screws;
1 - screw for adjusting the amount of combustible mixture, 2 - quality adjustment screw, 3 and 4 - restrictive plastic sleeves (seals).

We start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature (of course, when warming up, we add gas to it, if the engine does not keep idling). Next, we install the gas analyzer sampler on the exhaust pipe and now, by rotating the screw 1 of the amount of the mixture (see Fig. 5), we achieve engine speed of about 820 - 900 rpm (check the required idle speed in the manual of your particular car). At the same time, by rotating the toxicity screw 2 (the mixture quality screw), we achieve the permissible (according to GOST up to 1.5%) CO content in the exhaust gases.

After turning the toxicity screw 2 and having achieved the CO norm, you should again adjust the screw 1 (amount of the mixture) to the required idle speed (as a rule, they change) required for your engine. As a result, it is necessary to achieve two screws and normal toxicity and at the same time the required idle engine speed. And after adjustment, it is advisable to press in new seal bushings.

By the way, a simple device invented back in Soviet times is useful for adjusting the mixture - it is a transparent spark plug, which is shown in the video just below.

If there are no such candles or a gas analyzer, and you are far from the nearest service station, then you can try to adjust the carburetor as described below.

With the warm engine running, unscrew the mixture quality screw 2 all the way into the bushing (seal), and use the number 1 screw to achieve the required stable idle speed. Further, to check the adjustment, press the gas pedal and immediately release it immediately. In this case, the engine should increase the crankshaft revolutions smoothly and without interruption, and after releasing the gas pedal, the engine should work steadily at the minimum crankshaft speed required for your engine.

If the engine stalls, then by unscrewing the screw number 1, you should slightly increase the speed and re-check with the gas pedal. If such an adjustment fails to achieve stable operation of the engine at idle, then the reason may be clogging of the channels or jets of the carburetor, or due to a malfunction of the forced idle economizer (I described above how to check the EPC with a tester).

But it is best to start the check by checking the cleanliness of the idle jet, which should be unscrewed and purged, as well as the idle channels should be purged with compressed air. After purging (cleaning) the nozzle and channels of the idle system, repeat the adjustment as described above.

And the last thing: in order not to have problems with the power system, do not save on the fuel and air filters and change them earlier than the time recommended by the factory, especially if you drive on dusty country roads. After all, the manufacturer of cars (especially imported ones) gives recommendations for replacing consumables on the basis that the car will drive on normal and clean European roads, which are periodically washed with soapy water (in Europe, they wash roads).

And import car manufacturers expect their cars to run on normal fuel, free from water and dirt. Our fuel is far from ideal (how to check the quality of gasoline on your own, without a laboratory, I advise), so do not skimp on filters.

And thanks to the reduction in the time for replacing consumables (filters), repairing the carburetor with your own hands, or adjusting it, I hope you will not need it for a long time, success with this.

To disassemble the carburetor of an auto vaz 2106 with our own hands, we need: slotted, Phillips screwdrivers, a hammer, a set of keys 10-19, pliers, a thin core, or a mandrel about 40 millimeters long, with a diameter of 2-2.3 millimeters to get the float axes out of the carburetor cover.

We disassemble the carburetor

We move the lower link of the sliding rod up, overpowering the spring tension, disconnect the rod from the lever.

• We unscrew the cover fasteners, remove it carefully so as not to wrinkle the float and the gasket. If suddenly the gasket is firmly stuck to the body, we separate it with a knife blade, slightly lifting the lid.
  Then we turn the lid over, pour the fasteners from the channels into the hand.
• Immediately turn the cover over with the float upwards, put it on the table in this position, so as not to wrinkle the float and not accidentally bend its adjusting tongue.
• We disconnect the sliding (telescopic) rod, for this we turn it so that the protrusion on the rod coincides with the groove of the lever hole.

• We unscrew the fuel filter plug.

• We take out the fuel filter from the cavity.
• We remove the starting device by unscrewing the body fasteners.

• Disconnect the device, turn it 90 ° to disconnect it from the rod, remove the end of the rod from the slot in the diaphragm rod.
• Carefully pry the O-ring with a screwdriver and remove it from the cover slot.
• If necessary, we disassemble the starting device by unscrewing the fasteners of its cover.
• Disconnect the case from the cover of the device.
• We take out the diaphragm at once with a cardboard gasket. If suddenly the diaphragm sticks to the body, carefully separate it with a knife.

• We take out the spring from the trigger cover.

• We unscrew the plug of the hole in which the adjusting screw is located.

• We unscrew the adjusting screw from the cover.

Attention: To prevent self-loosening from vibration, the adjusting screw turns in the hole rather tightly. Therefore, unscrew it with a screwdriver, the plane (slot) of which coincides with the slot of the screw.
Otherwise, you may damage the screw slot, and it will be very difficult to unscrew it. If it cannot be unscrewed with a screwdriver, slide it using a pair of thin-nose pliers (pliers with narrow jaws).
Turning by the shank located on the inside of the cover (it is indicated by a red arrow in the photo - see point 13).

• With the help of a beard, we knock out the axis of the float.

Attention: Carburetors of an earlier model of release, installed on a VAZ 2106, have a through groove in one of the racks at the end. Move the axis of the float in the direction of the slotted post, if any.

• We take out the axle with pliers, holding the float with our fingers.
• Carefully take out the float with a needle locking the fuel valve.

• Disconnect the float and shut-off needle by unhooking the needle wire from the float bracket.

Attention: Pay attention to how the bent end of the earring is located relative to the float itself, so that during assembly you can set the needle in the same position, otherwise there will be malfunctions in the functioning of the float mechanism.

• Remove the carburetor gasket.
• We unscrew the fuel valve, take out the seat washer from the cover, it is made of aluminum.
• To remove the air damper axle, unscrew the damper fasteners. Having previously filed the riveted ends with a file.
  We take out the damper, mark its position for installation in its place. After that, we take out the damper axis from the carburetor cover.

Warning: Never unscrew the air damper unnecessarily, you can easily damage the threads of the axle holes. In addition, during assembly, you can displace the air damper relative to the initial position, it will jam in the channel, or, conversely, gaps will appear between its edges and the channel walls.
In both cases, the trigger will fail. You should not remove the econostat jets unnecessarily so as not to damage them, thereby avoiding loosening of their attachment in the nests.

Note: The pneumatic throttle valve actuator can be removed from the second chamber without disassembling the carburetor. It may be necessary to remove it for repair, for example, to replace the diaphragm.
Therefore, our instructions describe the general case for an unassembled carburetor.

• Disconnect the pneumatic actuator rod from the choke lever by removing the lock washer.

• And remove the rod of the pneumatic actuator from the pin.
• We unscrew the fasteners of the pneumatic drive to the housing, remove the drive together with the gasket.

Note: The pneumatic drive chamber must be disassembled when, with the carburetor adjusted and the levers in good condition, the secondary chamber flap does not work when the engine is running with the gas pedal fully depressed.

• Unscrew the fasteners of the pneumatic drive cover to the housing.
• Disconnect the body from the cover of the pneumatic actuator and remove the diaphragm spring, diaphragm and stem.

• Using a screwdriver, we take out the O-ring from the channel.
• Unscrew the solenoid valve from the body with the fuel jet together.
• We take out the jet, indicated in the figure by the number 1, from the valve body. We do this with pliers, wrapping the jet with a strip of paper for safety.
  Then remove the O-ring marked with number 2.

• Remove the fuel supply valve screw that secures the accelerator pump sprayer.

• Then we remove the accelerator pump sprayer, screw valve and sealing washer.

• We take out the second sealing washer with a screwdriver from the groove of the case (it is under the spray).
• We turn out the main air jet.

Attention: The blade (slot) of the screwdriver fits exactly to the slot of the jet, damage to the slot can disrupt the calibration of the jet. Before unscrewing the jets, carefully inspect their markings.
These jets in one and the other chambers have different flow rates. In order not to confuse them during installation, we recommend unscrewing them in turn, first of the first and then of the second chamber, folding them separately, and signing the container.

• We take out the emulsion tube of the chamber number one, gently prying it with a hook. If the tube cannot be removed with a hook due to accumulated dirt, screw a self-tapping screw into its channel and pull out the tube, grasping the screw head with pliers.

Note: Make the hook yourself from a wire or paper clip.

• We take out the main fuel jet from the float chamber.

• We remove the main air jet of the second chamber.

• We take out the second emulsion tube. Usually it can be easily removed, so the second chamber operates for a shorter time and, accordingly, much less sediment accumulates in the well of this chamber.

• We turn out the main fuel jet of the second chamber, it is next to the first one.
• Gently pry it with a screwdriver (you can pull it out with pliers) and move the diffuser in the first chamber and, overcoming the force of the clamps, remove it from the case.

• Remove the second diffuser in the same way.

Warning: Remove the diffusers only if there is accumulation of deposits in their channels, which remained after flushing the diffusers without disassembling the carburetor. Numerous removal and installation unnecessarily weakens the tightness of their fit in the housing socket, which leads to a loss of tightness between the housing and the diffuser channels.

• We remove the fuel jet working in the transition system, working in the secondary chamber, and remove it with the jet together. If necessary, remove the jet from the body in the same way as for a fuel jet from the idle system.

• We unscrew the screw that regulates the flow of the accelerating pump

• We unscrew the fasteners of the cover of the accelerating pump itself
• We remove it together with the pump drive lever and the diaphragm.

Note: Do not press the lever shaft out of the drive cover unless absolutely necessary, do not pull the lever out.

• Remove the accelerator pump spring.
• We unscrew the fasteners of the screw sleeve that regulates the amount of mixture in the idle system, then remove the sleeve with the screw and the gasket.

• We pull off the gasket from the sleeve.
• We take out the screw that regulates the amount of the combustible mixture with an O-ring.

• We unscrew the screw that regulates the quality of the combustible mixture, remove it together with the sealing ring.

Note: The O-ring can get stuck in the housing seat. In such a situation, we carefully remove it by prying it with an awl, or other thin, sharp instrument.

No further disassembly is required because it is easy to rinse thoroughly when assembled. The need to disconnect the valve body arises when replacing a damaged gasket or if the body itself is damaged.

Removing the throttle valves

To remove the throttle valves, you must:

• Disconnect the spring 1 from the chamber flap lever.

• Unscrew the valve housing fasteners to the carburetor. Disconnect the housings, then disconnect the intermediate link 2 from the lever (figure in point 1). To do this, we turn the bodies, relative to each other, so that the protrusion at the end of the rod falls into the groove of the lever hole.

Note: If you have the lower end of the link attached to the lever with a cotter pin, then it is enough to remove the cotter pin and the washer located under it to disconnect the link.

If necessary, carefully remove the heat-insulating gasket from the bushings of the air-fuel channels in the carburetor body.
All parts of the throttle valves (and the valves themselves with axles) are fitted individually and cannot be replaced. In case of any damage to them, they change with the body assembly.

Attention: The screws for adjusting the position of the throttle valves are sealed (red paint) during operation are never damaged (the exception is unqualified intervention). To avoid disrupting the fine adjustment, it is not recommended to unscrew them from the housing.

• To dismantle the throttle axles, bend the tendril on the lock washer 2, unscrew the nuts 1 and 3 securing the levers on the axles. We remove the springs and levers from the axles one by one.

• Then we remove the throttle valve fasteners (in the figure, the throttle valve fasteners - they are similar in both chambers), file the flared ends with a file, remove the flaps from the slots on the axles, marking their initial position. The axles can now be removed from the housing.

Warning: Never remove the shutters unnecessarily; when loosening the screws, damage the thread of the holes on the axle. Also, it is possible that the dampers are displaced when they are put in place relative to the factory position, which leads to their jamming in the body channels, which causes instability of shaft rotation at XX (idle) and to failures in the operation of the (pneumatic) throttle valve drive. Do not remove the mixing sleeve (it is thin-walled, fragile) from the XX (idle) system.
Do not touch the vacuum supply branch pipe on the vacuum corrector of the ignition distributor.

• After detailed disassembly according to the instructions of the VAZ 2106 carburetor, do-it-yourself repair of this type of carburetor will not be difficult for you. It remains to learn how to regulate it.

Carburetor adjustment:

Many manuals describe the process of adjusting the carburetor using a gas analyzer.
Yes, this method gives the most effective result. If you add a check of the device at the factory stand, the result will satisfy anyone, even the most demanding motorist.
It is not easy to find a workshop with such a stand. Most "specialists" - with a gas analyzer, can adjust the carburetor just for the composition of the mixture for idling.
And they charge a good price for such "work". Most motorists have no gas analyzer in sight, and even less a stand.
However, quite decent results can be achieved on your own using knowledge of the principles of your carburetor, patience, attention and a tachometer.
Further instructions apply to VAZ carburetors, however, the basic principles are suitable for all types and types of domestic carburetors, it is only important to know how to make an amendment to the technical data for each specific type.

Adjusting the valve train clearances

If necessary, adjust the clearances in the valve mechanism. We make adjustments on a cooled engine.
The gaps can be adjusted using a wide gauge 0.15 mm thick, but an adjustment device with a micrometer head is more suitable.

We set the ignition timing

Fig 1. Shows the location of the marks required to set the correct ignition timing.
Front view of the engine (pictured)

We set the ignition according to the instructions. For the VAZ-2106, the moment of opening the contacts in the distributor-breaker, corresponding to the appearance of a spark in the first cylinder, should be ahead of the TDC of the piston stroke of the first cylinder by about 0 ± 1 °.

Setting the fuel level

So:

• The fuel level of the float chamber affects the composition of the carburetor mixture under any operating conditions, fuel consumption, the dynamics of operation and the toxicity of exhaust gases.
• If necessary, remove, disassemble (see above), clean the carburetor. When unscrewing the screws responsible for the quality of the mixture and the amount of the mixture, we remember the number of revolutions at which they were initially from the state of complete closure.
• We wash the jets with a solvent, acetone, for example. It is allowed to use a hard brush or wood chips to clean the holes of the nozzles, it is forbidden to use metal wire.
• After flushing the jets and channels, they are blown out with compressed air, using a tire pump or compressor.
• Before starting the assembly, be sure to monitor the fuel level of the float chamber. We install the carburetor cover vertically so that the float tongue touches the needle ball slightly, check with a gauge the gap between the bottom of the float and the plane of the cover (taking into account the cardboard gasket), it should be 6.5 ± 0.25mm.
• If necessary, the gap is adjusted by bending the tongue on the float. If you do not have the correct caliber, use a drill of the correct diameter.
• We control the float stroke, it should ideally be 8 ± 0.25mm. Float stroke

Preparing for idle speed control

For this

• We fasten the carburetor to the engine.
• We pump fuel into the carburetor.
• We unscrew the screws of quantity and quality to the original number of revolutions, which we noted before disassembly.
• If you suddenly forgot to mark the position of these screws before disassembly, then unscrew the quality screw by 2, and the number screw by about 3 turns.
• We fasten the air filter.
• We warm up the engine to 90 °.
• If suddenly the engine does not start, then we are looking for such an arrangement of screws of quantity and quality, at which it will start and will work stably.

Adjust the idle speed

Getting started:

• We set the optimum engine speed using the amount screw (for the "classic" it is 820-900 rpm).
• Tightening the quality screw, we reach the maximum engine shaft speed will be the highest.
• With the help of the number screw, we set the revolutions 15% higher than the optimal ones (for the "classic" about 950-1035 revolutions per minute).
• We check the location of the quality screw so that it provides maximum speed in this position of the screw, which is responsible for the amount of mixture. If this is not the case, we use the quality screw to achieve the highest revolutions again and then, using the quantity screw, we bring the revolutions up to 15% higher than the nominal ones.
• We again check that the position of the quality and quantity regulators created the conditions as in point 4. Until then, when at the reached speed of revolutions 15% above the nominal, any twisting of the quality screw only leads to a drop in revolutions.
• We turn the quality screw, lowering the speed to optimal.

Checking the adjustments

So:

• We check the operation of the engine so that "triplet" is not audible when working on the XX. We accelerate the engine, see that it works without failures when the throttle valve is suddenly opened, so that it does not stall when it is suddenly closed.
  If there are gaps, loosen the quality screw a little.
• Make sure that the engine does not stall when braking. If it stalls, then slightly unscrew the quality screw.
• VAZ 2106 carburetor repair and adjustment completed successfully! By making repairs and adjustments yourself, you will save your money, and the price of repairs at a service station does not always mean quality!
• If something remains unclear for you in this process, then it will help you:
• Vaz 2106 carburetor repair video.