Changing the engine oil is one of the main maintenance procedures. Without normal lubrication, the engine will wear out more and quickly fail, which will entail additional costs for repairs. Therefore, it is recommended to change the engine oil correctly and on time.

Preparation for work

Before changing the oil, it is worth checking its current condition. You need to look at the transparency and consistency of the liquid. The smell is also worth paying attention to. A black, thick grease with dirt interspersed and an unpleasant odor indicates the need for replacement. It is also worth checking to see if the oil is stratified. If there are light and transparent fractions at the top, and a thick, opaque suspension at the bottom, then the liquid must be changed.

You should start with the preparation of the workplace. Here you need to remember - you cannot change the lubricant near residential buildings. A specially equipped workplace is required. Example: garage with a viewing pit, overpass, etc.

Do not forget about safety precautions, the driver must comply with the following requirements:

• Work away from children. A situation in which the driver works in the playground is unacceptable.
• The oil should not be hot. Allow it to cool if necessary. It is worth remembering that hot grease leaves unpleasant burns.
• Before work, you need to prepare comfortable clothes that you do not mind getting dirty. Moreover, it should be made of natural fabrics. When ignited, synthetics stick to the body. And when working with oil, there is always a risk of fire.
• The machine must be firmly secured in place. Stoppers are installed under the wheels, the car is left in speed and on the handbrake. When working with the lift, its reliability is checked in advance.
• Do not allow oil to come into contact with eyes, nose or mouth. We must remember that this liquid is capable of causing considerable harm to health.

Required tools

The next stage of preparation is the selection of suitable tools.

And here you need the following:

• A set of spanners and open-end wrenches. Ratchet wrenches are also useful. You will need them to remove the underbody guard, disconnect the pallet, etc. The size of the key depends on the vehicle. Experienced drivers recommend purchasing a set in advance with sizes from 6 to 20 mm (or more).
• Screwdriver Set. Tools with a flat cross-section, cruciform or torx (in the form of an asterisk) are useful.
• Waste oil container. It is worth remembering that the container should be taken 2-3 liters more than the amount of lubricant in the motor.
• New oil filter. If the oil is very dirty, then the filter will also need to be changed. You need to choose the right one for the car. And it is not worth buying a filter from the market. It is better to overpay in a car dealership for quality than to spend money on repairs later.
• Means for flushing the motor. Standard option: engine oil for replacement. But in case of severe pollution, you can take a special rinse.

Separately, it is worth talking about the purchase of a suitable lubricant for the motor.

Oil selection

The first thing worth mentioning is that the manufacturer is not too important when buying. Moreover, the products of famous brands are more often counterfeited. Therefore, many drivers choose oils from little-known companies. But ideally, it is better to take the original fluid from the car manufacturer.

But what is more important than the oil manufacturer?

Its type, grade and viscosity.

Types of engine oils:

• Mineral oil. Inexpensive liquid, sensitive to temperature extremes. Exfoliates quickly, does not wash out dirt. The main advantage: availability and low cost. Not recommended if other options are available.
• Synthetic oil. Expensive and very high quality liquid. It is more difficult to get it, it costs several times more than "mineral water". But replacement is required least often. At the same time, the synthetic lubricant protects the engine from unnecessary wear. If a driver is ready to overpay for quality, then his choice is synthetics.
• Semi-synthetic oil. A combination of the other two. Essentially: a mineral base with a set of synthetic additives. It is inferior in quality to synthetics, but better than standard mineral lubricants. At the same time, it is not difficult to purchase due to high availability and low prices.

There are only three oil classes... They indicate compliance with a specific quality standard. They look like this:

• SJ. Lowest quality. These fluids are already outdated and difficult to find. If you come across such a lubricant, it is better not to buy it.
• SL. The main quality standard recommended for cars up to 2004. Although it can be suitable for newer models. In general, the grease is of satisfactory quality.
• SM. The best lubricants for today. It is recommended to choose for any car. It will protect the new engine from wear, and will help the old one to work longer.

Finally, need to deal with viscosity... For most oils, it is calculated according to the SAE classification. Indicated as two numbers. Example: SAE 10w-40. It stands for this:

• The number with the letter W is the lower temperature limit. In a simplified version, it should be considered as follows: subtract 35 from the figure. Therefore, the 0w index indicates the operating temperature - 35 degrees. At lower temperatures, there will be problems with starting the engine. By the way, there are special lubricants for such harsh winters. But most drivers don't need them.
• The second number, without letters, is the viscosity with a warm engine. Moreover, here it is no longer related to the ambient temperature. This index shows how strong and even the lubricant layer is covering the motor parts. The higher, the more uniform and the lower the friction when the engine is running. Therefore, the higher the number, the better, because the wear of the motor decreases and its service life increases.

The best option for the SAE classification is 0w-40 engine oil.

The fake oil is worth mentioning. Many owners complain that even in official showrooms they are sold a fake. And you need to be able to recognize it. The driver cannot do a chemical analysis. But the simplest check will be within the power of every car owner.

The following options are available for checking the oil (fake or not):

• When buying a liquid. The container with grease is shaken and part is poured into a transparent glass. Then it is left for 1-2 days. There is a sediment - the oil is fake. After all, even mineral grease does not exfoliate immediately after purchase.
• In progress. I need to put a drop of oil on a paper towel. Normal liquid spreads out in a wide spot. Remains in the form of a drop - the lubricant must be changed.
• Sediment appears on the filler neck. There are two options here:
  • the liquid is of poor quality, stratifies;
  • the oil has not been changed for a long time, the engine has not been washed. The new oil washed out the dirt. In both cases, the grease must be drained and changed.

Draining old fluid

The process of draining engine oil is as follows:

• The crankcase protection is removed.
• A container for used grease is placed under the drain hole.
• The drain plug is unscrewed. To speed up the process, you can also unscrew the filler plug. But this is done after the oil begins to drain.
• The old oil filter is removed. It is important to remember! The filter is always removed when changing the lubricant. This part is disposable and cannot be repaired or cleaned. The only time the filter is left is during flushing.

The process of flushing the engine should be described separately. The procedure is only needed if the oil has been changed less frequently than is required by the regulations. Or when buying a used car. In this situation, it is better for the owner to change the oil and flush the engine, in order to avoid unpleasant consequences.

Flushing is done after draining the used grease. Without removing the filter, new fluid is poured into the motor. The level is just above the minimum, determined by the probe. Now the engine warms up for 10-15 minutes, at idle speed, at medium speed, with no instruments turned on. Then the oil is drained off. The procedure is repeated if necessary. At the end, the old oil filter must be removed.

Engine oil change instructions

When changing the oil, it is advisable to install a new oil filter first. It is recommended to fill it with grease before installation. The volume is about a third of the filter.

1. Wipe the rubber seal with oil.
2. The part is then secured in place.
3. After that, the filler plug is unscrewed and the drain plug is screwed on.
4. New oil is now being poured into the engine. The volume is indicated in the car's service book. And it's worth remembering - excess lubrication is harmful! It increases the pressure in the motor and makes it more difficult to operate.
5. After filling the fluid, warm up the engine at medium speed. When the engine starts, the oil shortage indicator will come on. After 5-6 seconds, it should go out.

It is worth driving a car for 1-2 days, and then check the lubrication level. If necessary, add oil to the required level.

Express replacement: nuances and reasons

Express replacement is a way to quickly pump out oil. It is made through the dipstick hole. It should be noted that experienced drivers do not recommend this method. It does not allow you to clean out all the dirt that settles in the motor. But if necessary, this method can be applied.

For the procedure you will need:

• Air pump. A manual version or a compressor will do.
• A container for draining the grease.
• Liquid pumping tube. The outer diameter is equal to the diameter of the stylus bore. The length of the tube should reach to the engine sump. It must be connected to the pump, no gaps.

Sequence of actions for express replacement:

1. The tube is fully immersed in the oil dipstick hole. Air must not pass between the tube and the walls of the hole.
2. When the pump is running, fluid is pumped out of the engine. Pump until air is drawn in.
3. The engine is filled with new grease.

The method has advantages and disadvantages.

Benefits: speed, no viewing hole or overpass is required.

Flaws: the filter is not replaced, dirt remains in the motor. The method is used for urgent oil changes. It is recommended to follow the standard procedure under normal conditions.

Replacing the working fluid in the engine is a very popular service at the service station. The frequency of such maintenance is 1 year or 15,000 km of run. However, the interval is shortened in case of excessive loads, harsh operating conditions.

You can change the oil in the service or on your own. It is enough to study the instructions on how to change the oil in the engine correctly, prepare the necessary materials and tools.

The preparatory process begins with studying the operating instructions for the machine. Attention is required by the manufacturer's recommendations on the frequency of maintenance, the type of working composition (its viscosity, volume, specification).

Other materials:

• New filter element, preferably of high quality;
• Oil is taken with a small margin, taking into account the volume of the power plant;
• Capacity for working off;
• Newspaper, rag, rags to remove traces of oil;
• Funnel for pouring a new composition;
• Combined and wrench to remove the oil filter;
• Flashlight - will provide better visibility;
• Rubber gloves for protection.

Before starting work, you need to know where the drain is located to remove the mining. It is worthwhile to first inspect the oil pan to find a suitable key, and the location of the oil filter is also determined.

Important:

Before starting work, the motor needs to be warmed up a little. It is enough to make a small circle or leave the engine running for a few minutes. So, the used composition is easier to remove. The car must be driven into a viewing hole, overpass, it must stand level on a solid surface. The jack is used only in conjunction with additional supports.

If you have a question about how to change the engine oil, it is worth noting that the instructions are quite simple and in most cases the same for different vehicles.

Main stages:

1. When the car is in a pit, overpass, it is left on the handbrake for models with manual transmissions and in parking mode for automatic transmissions.
2. Wearing protective gloves, you can lower yourself under the car and dismantle covers and hatches that restrict access. Keys, a container, and a newspaper underneath are immediately prepared.
3. The waste reservoir is installed under the oil pan. Using a wrench, first loosen the plug fastening slightly. It is necessary to monitor the gasket, it often sticks to the pallet, falls into old oil.
4. Further, the plug is removed manually, but it is held, since there is a considerable pressure of the lubricating fluid, which will begin to flow out quickly. Care is required here - the composition can be hot.
5. When the liquid is glass, experts assess its color, the presence of foreign particles, which makes it possible to determine the need to flush the unit. The composition is not completely removed, remaining in the most inaccessible areas, on working surfaces. But this is only 3% of the volume.
6. Then the plug is installed back, tightened tightly. The container is moved to the area where the filter is located.
7. The old element must be loosened using a key, and then removed by hand.
8. A new element is not installed immediately, preliminary lubrication of the gasket is required, which will ensure the absence of deformations, cracks, leaks. After fixing the structure, remove all oil smudges (water and soap are not used).
9. Further, the moment comes to fill in new oil through a special oil filler hole in the engine. Change the oil using a funnel so that the product does not splatter.
10. During pouring, there is no need to rush, constantly checking the level with a dipstick. Not enough is just as dangerous as overflowing.
11. After completing work, the engine compartment and all areas where work was carried out must be clean. Then the engine starts and runs for several minutes. Attention is drawn to the absence of leaks and other malfunctions. The turnover is not increased.
12. Having muffled the unit, check the level of the composition again, if necessary, topping it up to the desired mark.

The procedure is quite simple, with such instructions every motorist can change the lubricating fluid.

Sometimes the question arises - is it necessary to drain the oil when replacing it additionally, to flush the system? After removing the plug, all the oil drains, the remaining 3% is almost impossible to remove (except for overhaul, disassembly). Flushing is required when deposits are present, improper maintenance, or when changing fluid type.

Important:

After completing the procedure, you need to pour the mining into another closable container, and put the filter in a bag. By contacting the service station, you can hand them over for free. It is also recommended to remember, write down the date and mileage so that you know exactly when the next service is required.

Each owner, taking care of his car, can change the lubricant in the engine himself. When using the detailed instructions that the article contains, all the necessary manipulations will take no more than an hour. However, the question may arise - how much oil is poured into the system.

The information you need is easy to find by reading the instructions for the car. If there is no manual, you can contact the official representatives of the brand, clarifying the question, or contact the service station specialists who are engaged in servicing a particular brand of car. It is worth immediately studying the required characteristics of the product, since pouring an unsuitable composition is dangerous with the appearance of failures, unwanted breakdowns.

Attention:

The operating manual usually indicates the total volume of oil contained in the motor. This means that this amount of product was used in the first fill at the factory when there was no lubricant in the system before. With subsequent manipulations, the required volume is reduced.

If the manual indicates that the system contains 4 liters of oil, this is the full volume. It is impossible to fill in the same amount of grease when replacing, as an overflow will result.

What happens when overflowing:

1. The required fluid level is exceeded, due to which the crankshaft, during rotation, will be lowered by counterweights into the lubricant.
2. Paying attention to the speed of rotation, impacts, the composition will begin to foam, a gas-oil emulsion is formed, which does not have the necessary protective, lubricating properties.
3. As a result, the performance of the engine decreases, the candles become contaminated with oil, which also enters the air filter, carburetor, and cylinders. When the situation worsens, the lubricating fluid is supplied from below, the oil scraper rings stop working normally. There is a possibility of hitting the idle speed regulator. The worst option is to squeeze out the crankshaft oil seals.

Oil shortage problems:

If the level has dropped, oil starvation of the motor occurs. At the same time, accelerated wear of the components is noted. There is a risk of piston seizure. If there is not enough working fluid, the oiler on the dashboard usually lights up, although sometimes this is a sign of a breakdown.

In order to prevent such problems, after the change, the level control is necessarily carried out. The optimum indicator is when the oil level is between the min and max values. Wanting to do everything right, you need to gradually bring the volume to the desired level, and if the norm is exceeded, remove excess lubricant.

When choosing the right product, it is important to take into account the recommendations of the car manufacturer. Each container is provided with a special marking that defines the base, viscosity, energy efficiency class, API category. To determine what kind of oil is poured into the engine, you need to study all the parameters.

Oil type:

• Mineral compositions- produced on the basis of petroleum products with the addition of additives to improve performance, the product has a higher viscosity, accelerated loss of properties, suitable for old engines;
• Synthetics- an improved type of lubricant obtained as a result of synthesis. Differs in greater cost, fluidity, ability to work under severe loads, suitable for new, powerful cars;
• Semisynthetics- possesses the properties of the first two oils, is used at medium loads, has an optimal cost and parameters.

Viscosity - the required indicator depends on the loads, operating conditions:

• Winter formulations- there is the letter W (winter) in the marking, a number from 0 to 25 is indicated in front of it, subtracting 35 from this value, it is easy to find out the minimum starting temperature;
• Summer views- denoted by numbers from 20 to 60, which indicates the dynamic viscosity of the product when the temperature of the power unit rises to 100 degrees.
• All-season versions include designations for winter and summer.

The API system assumes a choice depending on the type of engine and class, taking into account the year of manufacture:

• S - for gasoline units;
• C - for diesel versions;

The class is determined by the letters of the English alphabet, and the further it is from the beginning, the higher the level. For example, for 1989 models, the SG series is used, and for 2004 versions, the SM line is suitable.

Energy intensity - differs for different types of cars:

• For gasoline models, class A is used;
• Type B is used on diesel cars;
• For cargo versions, type G is required.

An independent search for a suitable oil is carried out taking into account the type of base, adjusted for climatic conditions, operating mode, not forgetting about the type of the motor itself. Paying attention to the year of manufacture, it is not the date of manufacture that is determined, but the period of creation.

How, when and how often should you change your engine oil? If you are the proud owner of a car, then you probably asked these questions. The designs of cars are becoming more and more perfect every year, which is due to both the tightening of environmental requirements and the ever-increasing demands of buyers for the technical characteristics of cars. More advanced powertrains require higher quality lubricants. Currently, there are a huge number of different oils that meet these requirements, but it's better to buy them from official distributors, because there are many fakes on the car oil market. Having saved on the purchase of oil, you can then pay for a long time for engine repairs.

Choosing oil for your car

Car manufacturers in the service book indicate the minimum requirements for the characteristics of the oil. It should lubricate the engine under heavy loads and high temperatures and ensure engine start at low temperatures, because at -30 ° C the oil becomes jelly-like. And in the latter case, the driver would not mind at all, with the help of which the engine can be warmed up to operating temperature: the engine is satisfied, and you did not have to jump around the car in the cold. In specialized stores, according to special catalogs, you will find an oil of the required viscosity and type.

As a "educational program" I inform (just in case) that there are three types of oil: synthetic, mineral and semi-synthetic. Using the wrong type of oil can result in reduced engine life and prompt repair.

The higher the viscosity of the oil, the better the piston rings and other engine components are lubricated, and the thicker the residual oil film left by the piston rings in the cylinder and the higher the compression. Therefore, the higher the viscosity, the higher the service life of the motor, but the more waste will be. Therefore, automakers need to find a compromise when determining the viscosity grade of the recommended oil: either an increase in the engine life, or a decrease in oil waste. As for used cars with a worn out engine, then for them it is worth choosing a thicker oil, for example, 15W-40, and put up with the constant topping up of oil.

Choice of service intervals

The engine oil change interval is also determined by the manufacturer. This period is calculated based on the average operating conditions of the engine, such as:

• Air pollution
• Fuel quality
• Engine oil quality
• Regional features of operation (temperature characteristics, relief, etc.)
• Vehicle class, etc.

When choosing an engine oil change interval, you should take into account some features of the operating conditions that shorten this interval. These features include the following:

• In Russia, the fuel is not of the highest quality, one of its features (apart from the fact that the octane (for gasoline) and cetane (for diesel) numbers are lower than it should be according to the norms) is the presence of sulfur. By the way, car manufacturers calculate replacement intervals based on the properties of European fuel ...
• Traffic jams and difficult movement when the vehicle is in start-stop mode, and when driving uphill or with a trailer. In this case, the load on the engine increases significantly, and, consequently, the oil burns out more intensively.
• Irregular use of the car (for example, trips once a week to the summer cottage): a break of 3-4 days is already considered significant for a car, because during standstill, condensation forms in the engine, which, mixing with the products of fuel combustion, forms an acid. Because of this, the oil loses its alkaline properties faster, due to which it neutralizes the acidic environment.
• Continuous short journeys also contribute to the formation of condensation, especially if the engine does not reach operating temperature.
• Dusty and dirty air (under this condition, you should also change the air filter more often, which will reduce fuel consumption and increase the engine resource)
• Engine idling - when there is no airflow to the engine and the efficiency of the cooling system decreases, as a result of which the engine oil heats up. But in the conditions of our climate, it is simply necessary

If we take into account all the factors listed above, then we can conclude that it is worth shortening the oil change interval for most drivers by at least a third, if not half.

If you purchased a car from hands and are not sure of the quality of its maintenance, then make the first 2 replacements at an interval that is halved. This will better flush the engine from deposits that have formed on the cylinder walls.

If you decide to save from 200 to 1000 rubles (this is the average cost of an oil change in car services for different car models, although, of course, we are not talking about official dealers) and change the engine oil yourself, then first make sure you have the necessary tools, napkins , canisters for draining the used oil. It is also better to choose a spacious area where you will not disturb anyone. Do not forget to apply the handbrake to prevent the vehicle from rolling back.

• Warm up the engine for about 15 minutes - this will drain more used oil. its viscosity decreases; in addition, a larger amount of suspended particles formed during the combustion of the fuel-air mixture (simply put, dirt) will come out with it
• Pour the used oil into a previously prepared container, the approximate volume of which you can determine based on the amount of oil required.
• After you have drained the used oil, screw the plug into the sump. Then change the oil filter. When replacing, it is not necessary to fill the filter with oil, lubricate only its O-ring. It is better to twist it simply by hand, without using any tools, without overtightening.
• Fill in enough fresh oil so that the level on the dipstick is between the maximum and minimum marks.
• After that, start the engine, let it idle for five minutes. The oil filter will draw up the required amount at this time. Check the oil level on the dipstick and top up if necessary.

More information on oil change technology can be seen in the video.

After changing the oil in the engine sometimes changes color. This means that it performs well its detergent and dispersant properties, i.e. washes out and keeps in suspension the products of oxidation and combustion, keeping the engine surfaces clean.

Check the oil level after the first ride. This should be done on a flat surface 10 minutes after stopping the car. Never check the oil level of a cold engine - it will show an incorrect level.

Popular oil change myths

Currently, there are many myths that can confuse not only the layman, but also a specialist. Let's try to dispel some of them.

Myth number 1. Absolutely any quality oil can be bought in any market and in any garage.

Counterfeit oil is even more common these days than gasoline. There are more cases of detention of such consignments of oils even in chain hypermarkets, let alone car markets and questionable kiosks. Therefore, it is better, when coming to the store, to ask for the certificate of the company whose oil you want to purchase - it is issued by official distributors. You won't be in a suspicious place, so why don't you worry about quality assurance when buying your pet's "blood"?

Myth number 2. Before switching to another oil, it is necessary to flush the engine using a special flushing agent - this is perhaps one of the most popular myths.

If this were indeed the case, then the oil manufacturers would certainly indicate this requirement in the instructions for the operation of cars. It is not recommended to flush the engine! Firstly, because modern oils have very good detergent properties. Engine oil removes old deposits from the engine and prevents new deposits from forming. Secondly, detergents (flushes) are not certified, are not oils, and this is a "chemistry" that, having reacted with oil additives, can quickly lead you to repair the engine.

If you think there is a need for additional cleaning of the engine, shorten the oil change interval.

Myth number 3. Mixing different engine oils is acceptable and does not damage the engine.

Mixing oils of different types is a harmful activity, because each oil contains a complex of specific additives, even if you use oils with the same tolerances, but produced by different brands. After all, each company uses its own specific formula, so even the characteristics of oils with similar specifications can be strikingly different. As a result of mixing, an incomprehensible mixture is formed in which any chemical reaction can occur. In an emergency, for example on the highway, you can add another oil, but it is not recommended to ride on such a mixture for a long time, it should be replaced.

Myth number 4. If the oil turns black and the service interval is incomplete, this indicates poor oil quality and should be replaced.

As mentioned in the article, oil discoloration is not a cause for concern. On the contrary, it is an indicator of the good realization of its detergent properties. On the contrary, if the oil does not darken during operation, this indicates that the oil is not coping with one of its main functions - maintaining the engine in working order and protecting it from deposits.

Myth number 5. The presence of engine oil consumption for waste is an indicator of poor oil quality.

During the operation of the engine, there is a natural loss of oil through waste. Each car manufacturer has a rate of such losses for each model. Although these standards may fluctuate depending on the following indicators: operating mode and driving style, correct oil selection, the state of clearances in the cylinder-piston group, engine settings, observance of the correct oil change intervals. In addition, the consumption may increase due to malfunctions in the operation of the engine, turbocharger, injection pump, etc.

Any car owner understands perfectly well that a vehicle will work properly only if it is properly and timely maintained. That is why the owners of motorcycles, scooters, cars are trying to control the technical condition of their "iron friend".

Some car enthusiasts do it on their own, while others seek professional help from car mechanics. Among the questions that are primarily of interest, the engine oil replacement algorithm is in the lead. In addition to knowing the sequence of actions, it is important to know the rules for choosing a motor fluid, as well as take into account the frequency of replacement.

If you need to change the oil in the engine, you need some knowledge. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the algorithm of actions in order to correctly change the oil in the engine, saving money at a car service station.

Required tools and materials

In order for the fluid change procedure to go through quickly, first collect all materials and tools, and only then begin the procedure for changing the engine oil.

What is important to consider

The age of the vehicle is one of the main factors that affect the frequency of engine oil changes. This dependence can be explained by the following reasons:

Replacement frequency

Owners of vehicles under warranty do not think about when to change the engine oil. Their only task will be to arrive at the service station on time, go through the next MOT indicated in the service book. The mechanics of the car service will carry out a quick oil change on their own, taking into account all the recommendations of the manufacturer.

Different vehicles have different engine oil change intervals. It is important to consider certain factors:

Replacement Algorithm

Replacement process:

When discussing the need to change the oil in the engine, do not forget that the duration of the engine's operation, as well as your safety, directly depends on its quality. If you do not change the fluid and oil filter in a timely manner, the engine may fail, you will have to repair the car at a service station.

Practice shows that, on average, change engine fluid and oil filters are needed after 7-8 thousand kilometers as they become clogged and interfere with the operation of the engine. The bypass valve opens, unrefined liquid enters the engine, and its wear increases. When replacing the oil filter, it is important to lubricate the gum on the filter with sealant to prevent fluid leakage.

You can change the oil in the engine yourself, without having a certain level of qualification, you just need to familiarize yourself with some of the subtleties of this process, which we will discuss in our article. Let's make a reservation right away, motorists who own a car from the salon that are under warranty should not ponder the issue of replacing the engine mixture: the oil is changed at MOT with a mark in the car's service book, otherwise the vehicle service warranty will no longer be valid.

Changing the engine mixture is a prerequisite for the operation of the power unit, thanks to the use of good quality oil, it is possible to exclude the possibility of carbon deposits and sludge formation on the drive elements. The main reason for their formation is the processes leading to the aging of oils - the oxidation reaction of hydrocarbons included in the base of motor oil.

If the car is new and its owner uses an engine fluid recommended by a vehicle dealer, makes a scheduled oil change in time, then the formation of deposits on the engine elements is excluded: modern oils have detergents in their structure that prevent the formation of deposits. Owners of new cars, in which the drive has passed less than half of its life, when replacing the engine fluid should be guided by the following rules:

1. You cannot save on the quality of the car oil. The synthetic base is the optimal solution, it practically does not change the viscosity-technological indicators at various temperature conditions.
2. Mineral water is changed after 7-8 thousand mileage after the planned replacement of the engine mixture, semi-synthetics must be replaced after 10 thousand km, synthetics can be changed at - 15 thousand km. But keep in mind that these recommendations are for European roads where the operating conditions of the machine are close to ideal. In our case, it is better not to reach the recommended mileage and carry out the scheduled replacement earlier than the specified interval.
3. Adhering to extreme driving style, or being in frequent traffic jams, keep in mind that these factors negatively affect the engine mixture. When heated, the liquid liquefies, its protective properties deteriorate, so if you strive to be the first at traffic lights, then buy high-quality products on a synthetic basis.
4. Before changing the engine oil, consider the temperature outside the vehicle, it is important that the fluid has a viscosity that can protect the engine from wear at the lowest and highest temperatures in your area.

The situation with changing the oil in the engine of a used car is more complicated, before changing the engine fluid, consider what mixture was used before. You should not change mineral water to synthetics: synthetic mixtures have increased detergent properties and, on a heavily contaminated motor, can break down deposits without completely dissolving them. This will lead to the separation of the split mass from the surface of the drive elements and provoke clogging of the channels of the lubrication system and the internal combustion engine. A heavily contaminated engine must be properly flushed before changing the car oil.

Preparatory work

Preparing to change the oil in the engine

Check your car's service manual and read your car dealer's recommendations for engine fluid change and the correct type of oil for the specified model. Having found out which oil is better to pour into the engine, prepare inventory for changing the engine fluid:

• buy a new matching oil filter;
• a canister with motor fluid with a small margin so that its volume slightly exceeds the required volume of engine oil;
• a container for collecting waste - this can be a cut off canister, a bowl, it must fit under the vehicle and hold the entire volume of the spent mixture (comparable to the required volume of new oil for replacement);
• two keys, the first for unscrewing the drain plug, the second for the oil filter;
• flashlight - it will be dark under the car.
• plastic funnel;
• rags - a material with which you can wipe the working off, cover the floor surface, and so on;
• rubber gloves to avoid getting dirty.

To understand that it is required to replace the engine mixture earlier than the established mileage, you can check the oil for transparency. To do this, let the motor run for about 15 minutes before checking. Then take the oil from the engine using the dipstick and apply a small amount to white paper or cloth. The need to change the oil is evidenced by the turbid shade of the liquid, plus the presence of particles of various impurities (dust, oxidation reaction products) in it. A light shade of the motor fluid indicates its suitability.

Standard Mix Drain Procedure

Performing the specified process correctly, you must follow the procedure for replacing the car oil:

1. Place the machine on a level surface. It is advisable to choose an overpass or a viewing pit for this. Inventive motorists drive cars (front) onto bricks or blocks, thus raising them in front of the car in order to substitute a container for draining the liquid. But at the same time, the mining will not completely flow out of the pallet.
2. Fix the car in a static position, for this put the car on the "parking" or the handbrake. The vehicle should not slide to the side - this condition is the key to your safety.
3. Warm up the drive to operating temperature, then wait a few minutes (up to 15 minutes) for the engine elements and engine fluid to cool slightly to avoid scalding.
4. Remove the protective panels that block access to the oil pan.
5. Place a container for collecting waste under the pallet on newspaper or sawdust: oil will spray out.
6. Unscrew the plug in the motor sump. This is the lowest point on the pallet, if in doubt, find it in the car's operating instructions. First unscrew with a wrench, then, after loosening the nut, continue unscrewing it by hand: the oil will flow quickly and there is a possibility of dropping the plug into the waste collection container. There should be a metal or plastic gasket on the plug, it can stick to the oil pan, do not uranium it into the drained liquid.
7. The engine mixture is drained quickly enough, a few minutes. A small part of the used oil will remain in the engine, this is normal.
8. Assess the degree of contamination of the drained engine mixture, if there is a large amount of sediment in the oil, it is necessary to flush the engine before filling with a new car oil.
9. After all the glass has been worked out, remove the container with it and install the plug in its original place. Tighten the plug with a wrench.
10. Start replacing the oil filter. You can unscrew it, in some car models, with two hands without using a special key, for other models they use a puller or key. Remove the hatch or cover that is blocking access to the cleaning element. When unscrewing the filter element, do not rush, make sure that the oil in it does not spill. Then check the new filter for defects in its seat, make sure that the seat ring is removed from the old filter. Install the filter element on the seat, tighten it by hand, then with a wrench. Wipe off any smudges with a rag.

Watch the video on changing the engine oil:

Adding new lubricant to the motor

Raise the hood of the machine, unscrew the cap on the drive filler neck and install an oil filler funnel. Then fill the power unit with new oil using a funnel. When filling engine fluid, monitor its level using the oil dipstick. Fill in more than half of the required volume of engine oil, then add, adjusting the oil with the dipstick to the required mark. It is necessary to top up the engine oil up to the average value between the max and min mark. Then thoroughly wipe off any oil-spilled areas under the hood to prevent dust and dirt from accumulating on them over time. Tighten the filler cap. Next, start the drive without increasing its speed, let it run for a few minutes until the indicator lamp for the lack of pressure in the system goes out. Warm up the engine at idle speed, then drive off the overpass or inspection pit. This is the final stage of replacing the motor fluid on your own. You can correctly change the oil by adhering to this scheme. At the same time, keep in mind that it is necessary to replace the used oil with quality products. Filling with cheap car oil, you endanger the engine: it is not known whether it will prevent the formation of deposits and will not lead to a poor-quality mixture to dry friction of parts.

The amount of engine oil that needs to be poured into the internal combustion engine can be determined using the car operating instructions. Most often, for light vehicles, an oil volume of 3.5 -5.5 liters is used. If you are in doubt about how much oil you need to purchase, you can find out the required amount at a car service, where you will be given advice on the engine of your car.

Express replacement of engine oil at a specialized service station

You can change the oil at a service station, where a special vacuum unit is used for these purposes, consisting of a compressor, a probe and a reservoir. The fluid is pumped out through the dipstick hole. Of the advantages of this method, the speed of replacement and the low cost of work should be highlighted. In addition, there is no need to remove the protective and decorative elements of the car body - protection of the motor crankcase, plastic linings, and so on. Express replacement makes it possible to change almost all the fluid - it allows you to pump out the mixture from the crankcase quite efficiently.

This method is indispensable if you urgently need to replace a car oil in a situation where time is limited. It can be done on your own at home if you have the appropriate equipment. Plus, there is no need to get under the car, if possible, by opening the hood, dismantle the oil filter.

Of the shortcomings, some features of this procedure should be indicated:

• it is necessary to ensure that the volume of the drained oil is equal to the regulated volume of the crankcase filling (the deviation from the norm can be up to 200 grams);
• make sure that no third-party objects (tubes, nozzles, etc.) remain in the engine after replacing the engine mixture;
• it will not be possible to completely remove the mixture that has mixed with particles of dust and dirt and settled in the sump - this reduces the quality of the new engine fluid.

This method has both advantages and disadvantages, moreover, depending on the situation, it may be the only possible option for changing the car oil.

Let's summarize

There are several ways to change the oil. Experienced mechanics recommend alternating the usual change of the engine mixture with an express replacement, plus, depending on the type of engine and its contamination, flush the power unit. Having chosen the method of self-changing the oil in the engine, adhere to the above recommendations, this will avoid additional costs for repairing the engine. Turning to a service station, make sure that the masters will fill your drive with a certified oil of the required viscosity. Eliminate the possibility of mixing several brands of car oils in one engine, because pouring such a “cocktail” into the drive of a car is difficult to predict what kind of interaction will arise between the additives added to the base of car oils by different manufacturers. The resource of the motor depends on your care and responsible attitude to the replacement of the car oil.