35. Remove two croutons from the top plate of the spring with a tweezers or magnetized screwdriver. Then remove the device.

HELPFUL ADVICE
If the movement force of the lever of the device increases significantly, and the crackers do not leave the valve flow, apply a slight blow to the hammer on the springs plate so that the crackers are released.

36. Remove the valve springs plate.

37. Remove the valve spring.

38. Plut and remove the valve from the head of the cylinder block.

39. Spress the oil dialing cap from the valve guide to the device or passage (see "Replacing the oil-gripping caps").
40. Clean the net from the valve with a suitable tool (for example, a metal brush). Then carefully inspect the valve.

41. Replace valves with the following defects: deep risks and scratches on the work facker - 1; Plateling plates - 2; cracks, deformation of the rod - 3; Footprints. Shallow risks and scratches on the working chamfer can be removed by valves (see "Valve catch").
42. If damage to the working chamfer of valves is impossible to remove, you can pass the chamfer on a special machine in a specialized car repair shop.

43. Check the status of valve saddles. The work chamices of the saddle should not be traces of wear, shells, corrosion, etc. Valve saddles can be replaced in a specialized auto repair shop. Minor damage to the valve (small risks, scratches, etc.) can be removed by the valves (see "Valve Timing").
44. More significant defects of valve saddles are eliminated by grinding. The saddle is recommended to grind in a specialized car repair shop.

Fig. 5.10. Facock Processing Places Sadls Valves

45. Having a locksmith skill, this work can be performed manually using a set of special cutters. First handle facets but (Fig. 5.10) at an angle of 15 °, then the chamfer b. at an angle of 20 ° and chamfer in at an angle of 45 °. After grinding, the valves must be labeled (see "Valve catch").

46. \u200b\u200bCheck the status of the valve springs. Curved, broken or having cracks of valve springs replace.

Fig. 5.11. Valve springs check parameters
47. To check the elasticity of the outer spring of the valve, measure its height in the free state, and then under two different loads (Fig. 5.11). If the spring does not match the required parameters, replace it.
48. Inspect the valve hydro pullors. If there are scratches, scratches and other defects on the working surface 1, replace the hydrotherapists. Measure the external diameters of the pushers, worn pushers replace. In the working surfaces 2, there should be no scarecrows, caleracks, scratches, traces of stepwise or uneven wear, metal scap. Hydraulic drivers with such defects must be replaced. On surfaces 2, concentric traces of advancement with camshaft camshaft are allowed.
Fig. 5.12. Valve dimensions and their guide sleeves

49. Check the gaps between guide bushings and valves. The gap is calculated as the difference between the hole diameter in the sleeve and the valve rod diameter (Fig. 5.12). Checking the gap between guide bushings and valves is recommended to be performed in a specialized car repair shop, since for measuring the diameter of the sleeves, a special tool is needed (nutrometer).
Clauses between valve and guide sleeve, mm:
nominal for intake and exhaust valves ......................................... 0,018-0,047
extremely allowable for intake exhaust valves .............................. 0,300
50. If the gap between the guides and valves has not reached the maximum permissible, you can try to eliminate its valve replacement. If this fails to do or the gap exceeds the maximum allowable, replace the guide sleeve. To do this, discrete on the side of the combustion chamber defective sleeve with a special rim, after measuring the height of the top of the top of the sleeve above the surface of the cylinder head.
51. Cool a new sleeve (for example, using a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher), lubricate it with engine oil, insert into a special mandrel and press the camshaft from the side of the camshaft so that the height of the top part of the sleeve corresponds to the measurement value. Expand the hole in the sleeve using a scan to 7,000-7.015 mm for intake and exhaust valves.

52. If an old valve is installed, remove the burrs from the ducts under the crackers. After that, you need to put the valve to the saddle (see "Valve catch").
53. Install the valves into the cylinder head in accordance with the previously made marking, pre-lubricating the rods with engine oil.
54. Install the oil slimming caps (see "Replacing the oil-challenge caps").
55. Install the camshafts and housing of the camshaft bearings (see "Replacing the oil-challenge caps").
56. Install the parts and nodes on the cylinder heads and nodes.

Many owners of Lada Priora in the process of servicing and repairing the car conduct an independent replacement of block head gasket or valve wrapper. In the course of such work, it is important to observe the sequence and moment of tightening the GBC on the prior.

[Hide]

In which cases do you need a block tightening?

During the operation of any car, including the VAZ 2170 prior, the long-term cyclic effect of gases in the motor cylinders turns to the engine head. In the old power units, the tightening of the screws CHC could weaken from such loads and it periodically required to be made to a normal level. Today, all motors of the Vaz Priora use bolts made of special steel, which are tightened once for the entire service life.

When the oil appears to additionally tighten and stretch these bolts does not make sense, as it will not improve the tightness of the joint. The only right way to deal with the flow is the removal of the head, checking the evenness of the mating surfaces and replacing the gasket. After performing any repair work related to the removal of the head from the engine, its tight is required in compliance with all the necessary conditions.

Nuances of work

In different times, engines with a working volume of 1.6 and 1.8 liters and various number of valves in the heads - V8 (or 8V) and V16 (or 16V) were installed on cars in Lada Priora. The type of unit head determines the size of the bolts, the order of their installation and the moment on the prior.

If the machine costs 8 valve engine, then it can use different fastener head bolts:

• on older engines 21114, M12 * 1.25 screws are used with a hexagon head;
• on a more modern 21116, which came into production from about the middle of 2011, the elements of M10 * 1.25 are installed with a head under the "asterisk".

When installing the head removed, you need to use new screws, since the old will be stretched and have internal damage.

Also on motors are used different on the design of the gasket - combined on the old unit and fully iron on the new. The tightening procedure of bolts for engines with a metal and combined gasket is absolutely identical.

The main nuances when performing work is to check the length of the fastening elements, compliance with the screwing sequence of screws and control efforts when tightening.Violation of these conditions leads to damage to the parts and the need to perform additional repair work. The procedure itself is not difficult and can be made independently at any convenient location - in the garage or on an open parking, except in the case of mounting the head on the engine, which is desirable to install in a closed room.

It is important to remember that tightening the bolts "on the eyes" without a dynamometric key is unacceptable because there will be no uniform fitting of the matered surfaces of the head and the block.

Tools and materials

Before the start of the tightening procedure, you should prepare everything you need to fulfill:

• key with built-in dynamometer up to 100 H⋅M;
• set of heads and ordinary keys;
• key Togh E14;
• caliper for measuring the residual bolt length;
• plate with a scale marked up to 180 degrees;
• new bolts.

Dynamometric key - an important tool for self-repair

Step-by-step instruction

Sequence of operation on 8 valve engine:

1. Wipe the surface of the GBC and dry the holes under the bolts in the motor block.
2. Install the laying on the block, set it on the guides.
3. Mount the head on top and insert 10 m10 or M12 fastening bolts. If the owner decided to save and leave the old screws, they must have a length of no more than 135.5 mm.
4. Tighten the elements according to the scheme. The tightening force must be not higher than 20 H⋅M.
5. Then you need to re-stretch the bolts. The second tightening force should be from 70 to 85 H⋅M.
6. Next, you need to tighten the screws with a fairness of 90 degrees in the same sequence. The angle of delivery can be monitored by a special device that is a plate with a planted scale from 0 to 180 degrees.
7. In accordance with the Rules, you need to trust the bolts once again 90 degrees.
8. The mounting of the 8 valve head to the block is completed.
9. After assembling the motor, you need to check the quality of work, running and warming the engine. A reliably protracted head of the head and block should not miss the working fluids from the crankcase of the power unit.

Homemade adaptation to control the angles of confidence

In the case of an installation on a more powerful and modern motor with sixteen valves, for example, VAZ 21126 models or a shortened 126 bolt stretching procedure has its own characteristics.

In order to correctly perform the tightening of the screws of the GBC on such aggregates:

1. Remove the grinding from mating surfaces and check the absence of fluid in bolt holes.
2. Installing the gasket, center it and lay the head on top.
3. Insert into the guide holes 10 of the M10 * 1.25 fastening screws, pre-lubricating the carving with engine oil. If it is decided to use old bolts, which is permissible for 16 valve heads, then their residual length should not exceed 98 mm.
4. Perform a preliminary barrel according to the scheme with a moment of 12-20 H⋅M.
5. Increase the degree of tightening to 26-34 H⋅ and re-pass all the bolts in the same sequence.
6. Then you need to trust the screws by 90 degrees, while the force will be about 50 H⋅M.
7. Repeat the tightening of 90 degrees again, the moment on the key will be about 80 H⋅M. Some instructions are recommended to withstand between trust up to 20 minutes, but in practice no advantage of such a scheme is revealed.
8. After assembling the power unit, check the quality of the work performed.

The procedure for pulling the head on motors of 1.8 liters, which are 1.6 liters with an increased cylinder, completely identical to the above described above.

If in the process of performing work to the bolts, the correct moment of the force corresponding to the design calculations is applied, the gasket will be evenly pressed on the joint, providing a reliable and hermetic connection. It is important to note that if you want to remove the head of the unit from the engine, then the weakening of the screws is also made according to the scheme established by the Regulations. Chaotic unscrewing elements will lead to deformation of the head and the appearance of invisible microcracks.

Sometimes it happens that it is necessary to urgently replace the gasket or change the GBC. Such work per hundred is worth a lot and in order to save, you can try yourself. This work is simple, but requires care, the main thing is to comply with the sequence and moment of tightening the cylinder prior of 16 valves.

Here you also need to know that the sequence of tightening on 16 cells and 8 cells of the units differs, so you need to be attentive. The moment on the 16 and 8 valve power unit is the same and goes into four circles.

[Hide]

In which cases do you need a block tightening?

The tightening of the bolts is needed primarily after you dismantled the GBC and install it again. Also, tightening can help in some cases, if during operation it weakened and there is a need to spend it. In some cases, for example, when we started to skip the gasket, it can help.

Adjusting the moment of tightening bolts for 16 valve cars

Adjusting the moment of tightening is a simple process, and reading the material and video in this article, you will handle it yourself. It is enough to spend the tightening and then you yourself will be able to perform it and at the same time you can help your friends if necessary. It is important to stick to the scheme for vehicles with a 19-valve motor and abide by the moment.

Required tools

Scheme

The diagram on which the tightening is passed on the 16 valve motor differs from the scheme for 8th therefore we will imagine one and second so that you can compare them.

Just do not confuse when you install. In any case, before starting work, check with the instruction going along with the car. Tightening with different points on the 16 valve unit occurs in 2 circles at different points, and then 2 more circles with a rotation of 90 degrees. It is difficult to do anything, which means to cope with your own.

Stages

In order for independently tightening the bolts, it has completed successfully and held a long time to observe a number of non-hard rules:

Observing these simple rules, you can guarantee the best tightening and a reliable hermetic connection.

Put the GBC to the block, pre-valid that the knees and camshafts are set to the top of the dead point (NTT).

The tightening process itself occurs in the 4th circle:

• 1st round - moment 20 N · m (2 kgf / m);
• 2nd round - moment 69.4-85.7 N · m (7.1-8.7 kgf · m);
• 3rd circle - the coat of the bolts 90 degrees;
• 4th round - another turn by 90 degrees.

As you can see, everything is simple if questions remained, then see the video. By time, this work does not take more than twenty minutes, but allows you to save a decent amount that will be taken with you at the maintenance station.

Video "How to tighten the GBC bolts"

In this video, the master with extensive experience shows and describes in detail how the cylinder head bolts are correct. By car Lada Priora with a 16-term work unit are performed according to the same scheme.

It is known that a 16-valve 126 engine priors when the timing belt breaks up valve (124 is not oppressed). Despite the complexity of the repair of motors, replace the valve on the 16-valve "prior" with your own hands. To do this, you need to have a general idea of \u200b\u200bthe internal combustion engine device, stocking the necessary parts and tools, as well as use this article as a guide.

What you need to buy for replacement

- Valve kit 16 pcs (intake / graduation) - timing belt with rollers in the kit - block head gasket - receiver gaskets kit - Valve gland set 16 pcs. - The puller for valve springs - the puller of the oil-challenge caps.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing valve valves

Removing GBC Lada Priora. The valve replacement procedure must be started with the removal of the engine head. To access the block head, you need to remove the air receiver. Unscrew two nuts on 13, fastening the choke flap node. The flap with the rubber air nozzle is to the side. Unscrew 5 nuts on 13, fastening nozzles on the inputs into cylinders, and 4 nuts that keep the entire receiver from above. Remove the receiver, and twisting nuts on 10, remove the ignition coils. Remove candles. Remove the protective cover of the timing belt (gas distribution mechanism). Loosen the stretch mechanism, and remove the belt itself from the gear of the camshaft. Remove the gears from the shaft, unscrewing the fastening bolts at 17. Mark gears. Although they are hard to confuse. On the right, the inner part goes bezel, for the phase sensor reader (camshaft). Now weakening the clamps, remove the nozzles from the thermostat. Unscrew the fastening bolt of the oil probe to the figure scolding. Remove the bolts for 10, holding a gas station. Klyuches on 17, wrench, disconnect the fuel wire. It remains only to unscrew the head on 8, fifteen fastening bolts, and the lid can be removed by using special protrusions around the edges. And the final stage. Unscrew the hexagon number 10, head bolts. There are 10 pieces.

After removing the head, position it on a wooden substrate with camshafts up so as not to damage the valve. Then you need to remove the left engine support. For this end key on 13 open 3 Nuts fixing it.

After the support is disconnected from the housing, unscrew the key on 10 Bolt that keeps fastening the fuel tube, and disconnect it.

After the same key on 10 Lost 2 Bolts that fasten the camshaft position sensor.

Then you need to disconnect an emergency drop sensor for oil pressure. To do this, it is necessary to turn it out of the Bearing Block on the key on 21 .

Then key on 19 Remove the coolant temperature sensor from the thermostat.

Key 21 Remove its back from the engine head housing.

Now you can disconnect the thermostat. To do this, unscrew the two nuts on 13 which holds it and remove it with the studs along with the gasket.

Then, for convenience, in further work with a candle wrench, unscrew the spark plugs.

Now remove the camshaft bearings block. For this end key on 8 You need to unscrew 20 bolts that hold the block housing.

Then remove the camshafts from the recesses of the cylinder block and remove the glands from their front ends.

Remove the plugs from the head of the head.

Then you can extract valve hydrothels from it.

After disconnecting all the elements, clean the surface of the head from Nagar and possible burrs.

First you need to install the focus on the valve removable. Then correctly put the puller for the valve spring.

To do this, in the hole on the body of the head, the bolt, which fastens the cover of the bearings block, and hook a puller for it. Now squeeze this device to the spring and remove both dams of the valves from the top plates of the spring.

This can be done with a tweezers or a screwdriver. If the "tear" does not go out, then you can easily hit the top plate with a hammer and free it. Now you can remove the puller. Then remove the top plate and remove the spring out of the hole.

Now you can easily get the valve, pushing it a bit with a screwdriver.

The next step in the replacement will be the removal of the oil surcharge cap from the valve. It is planted with a sleeve with a special puller or pliers.

Then clean the valve from Nagara and carefully inspect it. Replacing the valve needed with the following defects:

Deep scratches and damage on the valve working plane. Blind rod or cracks on it. Burned working plane. It should also be carefully inspecting the valve seats for significant damage. If there are defects, you need to polish them in a specialized workshop. Check the valve springs state. If there are any damage or bends on them, then replace them.

After a complete inspection of all valves, replace faulty and install the valve to the place, smearing them in front of this engine oil. To assemble the head and install it in place, repeat the steps described in the article in the reverse order.

Important: The gasket between the cylinder block and the head is disposable. Therefore, be sure to replace it before installing the head.

In order to avoid rapid wear or valve bend, it is recommended to adhere to several rules: ✔ Follow the status of the timing belt. Most problems with valve arises when it is broken. This can be warned if you use high-quality belts, and most importantly, to change them on time. ✔ Place high-quality fuel. With a poor mixture, the combustion temperature in the engine increases significantly, which leads to the deformation of the working plane of the valve or its exaggeration. ✔ Use high-quality spare parts. If you have already had to replace the valve, then install only proven branded spare parts. Do not save, buying analogs from an unknown manufacturer or knowingly poor-quality, but cheap items. As practice shows, subsequently such savings costs much more expensive. ASSEMBLY Collect everything in reverse order. Only a few important points: ✔ Do not confuse shafts in places. ✔ Thoroughly clean the seats and covers, before processing the sealant. ✔ Observe the order of tightening the head fastening bolts. ✔ Properly install gears, do not confuse places. ✔ Strictly set tags on all shafts. ✔ otherwise simply conduct procedures in the reverse order. Running So, everything is collected. No extra bolts left, Tossol is covered in the system and battery in place. Oil level checked. Masonry caps on the "Prior" are new. It seems you can run. However, one advice. Just in case, it is better to make 2-3 crankshaft turns manually. FirstlyThe confidence will appear that the timing labels are set correctly. Secondly, the belt itself is tightly in place after installation. Well, now, you can start.

How work is carried out

First of all, cook tools. You will need to have:

• dynamometer key;
• a set of keys;
• calipers;
• gorotok;
• face heads.

Each bolt is delayed in 4 approaches: 2 circles at different points and as much with a turn of 90 degrees. There are several rules that need to be observed that the fasteners on the head of the cylinder block were tightened successfully:

1. Always replace old fasteners for new ones. The fact is that the fasteners during the engine operation are in voltage. This leads to their wear and breakdown.
2. Carefully inspect the GBC bed and other elements. Worn or deformed parts are better replaced. A small breakdown or crack can lead to global destruction.
3. The gasket in the process of any repair is worth changing to the new one.
4. Tighten each in 4 approaches, observing the order. Do not hurry with the performance of this work and constantly check with the scheme so as not to get confused. We recommend new things before starting work to see the instructions on the video. With it, you will be visually able to present every step and definitely do not make a mistake.
5. The entire tool must be high-quality, especially the dynamometric key. Better to lend it on a day than buy, trying to save. A good key cannot cost a penny.

Before the start of work, put the knees and the camshaft to the top of the dead point. Phased tightening occurs as follows:

• 1 circle with a moment of 2 kgf / m (20 N * m);
• 2 Circle with an interval of points from 7.1 kgf / m (69.4 N * m) to 8.7 (85.7)
• 3 Circle - Rotate 90 degrees;
• complete the work by another turn by 90 degrees.

Follow the rules described above when assembling the mechanism so that it will serve as longer as possible. Check with a scheme to work correctly. Please note that first each bolt is delayed with a torque wrench with the specified torque, and then the remaining circles also pass according to the scheme.

Do not hurry while tightening, make smooth movements. With excessive tightening, fasteners simply break. Well, if it happens while working. If you secure the GBC too hard and do not fix the error, then in the process of operation, the bolts can burst, which will lead to expensive repair of that node. With a weak tightening, the gasket will start skipping. If you do not immediately find it, the breakage will become more than serious.