Cardan transfer

Transmission of rotation from the output shaft of the gearbox to the master gear of the main transmission of the rear axle occurs with the help of the cardan transmission. It consists of intermediate and rear cardan shafts, three hinges and an intermediate support. Open tubular shafts.

The intermediate cardan shaft is a thin-walled pipe, and which is pressed, and then welded the plug of the hinge and a slotted end, the flange of the cardan hinge of the intermediate shaft will be brought to the flange, sitting on the output shaft of the gearbox.

The rear end of the intermediate cardan shaft rotates in the ball bearing installed in the intermediate support. The intermediate support is attached on two rubber pillows to the floor of the body. The bearing is inserted into the support housing through the rubber clip. Two rubber buffers (top and bottom) support limit its movement in the floor tunnel. The elastic suspension of the intermediate support prevents the transmission of vibrations from the cardan shaft to the body. The flange is planted on the spiers of the back end of the intermediate cardan shaft, with the help of which the shaft is connected to the main cardan shaft.

The rear drive shaft has two hinge and mobile (telescopic) slotted compound, allowing you to change the distance between the hinges when the body swings on the springs. To one of the ends of the driven shaft, the fork of the cardan hinge, to the second - the slotted tip with the inner slots of the eusolvent profile. The slot of the tip includes slotes of the sliding fork. Planting the plug in the slotted tip is carried out in two cervix - slotted and cylindrical, providing its axial movement without a tangible gap. The slotted compound is lubricated through the oil and liquid transmission oil. The oil is held here by the felt gland, which is pressed by the cap. A slotted compound is protected from dirt rubber cover.

Cardan shafts are subject to a thorough dynamic balancing, with both shafts balancing together and therefore their relative position after separation should not be changed.

The cardan hinge consists of two forks, crosses and four needle bearings. Each bearing has 20 rollers located closely with a small gap. Rollers are held by the rope in which the rubber self-pulling gland is inserted. Bearings are held in forks by locking rings. The clerk centering is achieved by the fact that it ends in the bottoms of bearings. Bearing lubricants are produced by liquid transmission lubrication through the oilbox in the cross. To prevent the squeezing of the glands during lubrication in the crossbar (from the back of the oil from the oil), a safety valve is installed. To bearings, lubricant is supplied from the oil to the lubricating channels drilled in the cross. For the same purpose on the ends of the crossbar there are grooves.

Caring for the cardan transmission lies in the periodic lubrication of the hinges and the slotted compound, as well as in the suspension of bolts of the mounting of the cardan shafts.

Brake parking

Parking brake (handbrake) Central, drum type. It is driven by a handle located under the instrument panel. This brake should be used in the parking lot and when touching on the lift. The use of them as a working brake is allowed only in emergency cases when the main brakes fail.

The central brake is set beyond the gearbox and acts on the car shaft of the car. The brake shield is reinforced on the flange of the rear gearbox cover. The brake pad support is a finger inserted into the ears on the back cover of the gearbox and the screw fixed. The top ends of the pads are based on the finger, the lower part in the slots of the adjustment device consisting of a screw and nut with a corrugated surface.

The pads are pulled by a V-shaped spring and pressed to the shield of figure springs. Friction pads are glued on the pads.

In the upper part of the right pad, the lever, the protrusion of which relies on the expansion link, placed between the protrusions of the top ends of the pads.

The bottom end of the pad lever is connected by the drive lever, which rotates on the axis, screwed into the rear cap box.

The drive lever is delayed in the original position of the spring. To the outer end of the lever, the plug of the drive cable tip is attached. The end of the lever passing through the brake shield is sealed with a rubber cover.

The brake drum is planted on the center of the transmission output shaft flange and fastened with bolts together with the flange of the intermediate cardan shaft.

On the brake drum disk there is a hatch for brake adjustment, closed with a rubber plug.

The drive handle has a rack, in the teeth of which the dog is included, holding the handle in the inhibited state.

The brake is released by turning the handle and moving it from itself.

The brake drive cable is placed in a rigid tube, at the top of which there is a lubrication hole closed by a clamp.

On the handle rod bracket, a manual brake signal lamp switch is installed. With the brake handle, the pin pressed into the handle presses the switch plunger and turns off the signal lamp.

Adjusting the manual brake is made by turning the nut of the adjustment mechanism using a screwdriver through the hatch in the drum disk. The manual brake drive is regulated by changing the cable length by screwing down the plug on its threaded tip.

Parking brake care lies in timely check of its efficiency and adjustment, as well as the drive cable lubrication.

To begin with, it is worth learning this: GAZ-21 is not a toy, but a car that requires care, attention, investment, forces and time spending. And the financial costs for its content is no less than the maintenance and maintenance of the modern car. Yes, and difficulties are different.

Often, motorists pay attention to very serious management of GAZ-21. This is a little wrong. Yes, indeed, the "Volga" control process is very different from driving other cars, as a rule, due to the unusual location of most controls. In addition, some controls of the car are pretty specific. Figure 1 shows the control panel of a fully authentic machine:

Fig.1 - Panel of instruments and controls GAZ-21 "Volga"

1. air flow adjustment knob;
2. heating and ventilation control handle;
3. switch mode of operation of the fan;
4. central light switch;
5. the thermal fuse button of the lighting circuits;
6. parking brake control lamp (handbrake);
7. coolant temperature control lamp;
8. ignition switch and starter;
9. wiper switch;
10. radio;
11. throttle control handle (sucking);
12. ashtray;
13. clock head for the translation of the arrows;
14. cigarette lighter;
15. windshield washer pump pen;
16. far light control lamp;
17. ammeter;
18. fuel level index;
19. speedometer;
20. odometer (the counter traveled);
21. coolant temperature pointer;
22. oil pressure pointer in the lubrication system;
23. control lamp of turn signs;
24. button of the carburetor air damper;

The lever positions are shown in Fig. 2:

Fig.2 - GAZ-21 gear gearbox lever position

As we see, in fact, not everything is so difficult, as some describe. There is only a small practice.

In general, the problem of GAZ-21 is somewhat contrived. Why? Consider the main claims to the car, which are simply common myths:

Myth number 1: Tight steering wheel

It may seem strange, but on new models of gas, even on the most modern (except models with a hydraulic agent), twist the steering wheel is harder than GAZ-21. Here it is necessary to take into account the considerable diameter of the steering wheel, carefully calculating the transfer number of the steering mechanism and a small wheelbase. All this makes the steering is relatively easy. Of course, if you compare the "Volga" with Kalina or any foreign car, their superiority is obvious. But we are talking about a full-sized sedan, the length of which is about 5 meters, and which, in no case, does not claim the role of the car.

Myth number 2: gearbox lever located on the steering wheel and only three transmissions create inconvenience in management

On all the "Volga", with a rare exception, a three-speed gearbox is installed, with a control lever on a steering shaft. However, the effort attached to the gear shift mechanism (if it is, of course, it is better) minimally, and the driver's hands are all the time on the steering wheel. For most drivers, it is much more convenient than stretching to the floor lever.
As for the three gears, such a number reduces the number of switching and facilitates control. Reduced speed and acceleration can be performed without switching transmissions, but using the magnificent tractive quality of the engine. The maintenance of the four-stage box with the gear shift lever is more complicated, more laborious and in case of failure requires the acquisition of expensive spare parts. While the "native" checkpoint demonstrates stunning fault tolerance and durability.

Yes, do not forget that such a gearbox is a kind of GAZ-21 business card, without which the car will immediately lose its unique style.

Myth number 3: car dynamics is just awful

Here you need to understand that the dynamics is not the main advantage of any car affecting the choice. Yes, indeed, certain problems with accelerating dynamics in GAZ-21 are present. But at the same time the car is quite suitable for traffic in the city in modern conditions. By the way, if we talk about the third series, then Volga with a working standard engine capacity of 75 hp According to the dynamics, approaching classic VAZ models, surpassing OKU and Niva.

Myth number 4: inefficient brake system

GAZ-21, as however, and all Volga cars, released until the 90th year, equipped with a drum-type brake system. Of course, disc brakes are much more effective, but taking into account the speeds developed by GAZ-21 the effectiveness of the standard brake system (in good condition) is quite acceptable. Moreover, in the case of installing a vacuum brake amplifier from the gas-24 car, the efficiency of the brakes is repeatedly rising.

Myth number 5: high fuel consumption

This is rooted incorrectly - in fact, GAZ-21 consumes gasoline no more than modern gas models. In any case, with a good engine, it is actually so. The average fuel consumption for driving in urban mode ranges from 12.5 to 15 liters per hundred kilometers. On the track, this figure is much lower - approximately 10.5 liters per hundred. What is quite acceptable for so overall and heavy car.

But it is not necessary to think that there are no problems with the Volga. They are available, and to this you have to be ready. And now let's talk about.

On the car on all wheels installed brakes with hydraulic drive. The design of the brakes is shown in Fig. 111 and 112.

The hydraulic drive of the brakes consists of brake pedals, the main cylinder, pipelines, flexible hoses and wheeled cylinders. The system is filled with a special brake fluid.
When you click on the brake pedal, the entire system creates the same pressure, which ensures the simultaneity of all brakes.
The diameters of the wheel cylinders of all brakes are the same. In the front brakes, separate cylinders are installed on each block, which significantly increases their effectiveness due to the self-moving effect of each shoe. On the rear brakes both shoes are driven from one cylinder; The effectiveness of their action is somewhat less, as one block has a self-making action.
Such a combination of efficiency of the anterior and rear brakes provides a decrease in efforts on brake pedals and the simultaneity of the occurrence of the use of all wheels when braking on a dry asphalt highway. When braking on a slippery road, the UZ comes a little earlier on the front wheels, which reduces the risk of drift.
Brake drums of all four wheels of the combined design: the steel stamped disk is covered in the cast iron rim of the drum (see Fig. 89 and 97). A amplifying ring is welded to the central part of the drum disk.

For the convenience of access to brakes, the drums are made removable. The drum will go on the heaps of the wheels, screenshots of the hub or the flange of the semi-axis and will be brought into three screws. The screws are located unevenly around the circumference, which ensures the installation of the drum on the flange of the hub or semi-axis in one specific position.
Rearrange the drums from one hub to another is not recommended, as it will lead to an increase in the bias of the working surfaces.
The enhanced ring has three threaded holes, which serve to remove the drum using bolts, written to these holes.
Wheel cylinders and pads are strengthened on the brake shield. The brake shields of the front brakes are attached to the flanges of swivel fists, rear brakes - to the flanges of the casing of the semi-axes.
To the upper and lower parts of the front brake brake shield (Fig. 111) with the help of supporting fingers 3 attached wheel cylinders 6. Fingers 3 simultaneously serve as supports of the stationary ends of the brake pads 11 and 13. These fingers are bronze or metal-ceramic eccentrics 15, which are rolling axes. Pad. When turning the fingers 3 turns the eccentrics. Eccentrics serve for the initial proper installation of the pads; You need to use them only when replacing the pads or their lining. With proper installation of the pads with newly unavailable labels on the fingers (cores on the outer end) must be arranged as indicated in Fig. 111.
The movable ends of the brake pads are included in the grooves of resistant superstars 17 pistons of wheel cylinders. Brake lining sticked on the pads. Both pads are the same, torn apartments with each other until the stop in the eccentric 1.
The axis of the eccentrics 1, having a hex head, is removed on the outdoor side of the brake shield. A strong spring, pressing eccentric to the shield and holding it due to friction in any position, is hoping on the axis. With the help of eccentrics, the required gap between the pads and the drum is installed. Inside each wheel cylinder is a piston 8 with a sealing cuff and a conical spring 9. The cylinder has two holes on the side. The bottom hole serves to supply the brake fluid from the drive system, upper - for the release of air during pumping; It is closed by bypass valve 5, the head of which is protected by a rubber cap 4. The cylinders are interconnected by a tube 16.
The rear brake (Fig. 112) differs from the forefront in what has one wheel cylinder on both pads in the upper part of the shield. Pistons, cuffs and other cylinder parts are the same as at the front brake. At the bottom of the shield, the supporting fingers 8 are located on which the same as in the front brakes, adjusting eccentric 9, which are axes of swing pads.

With the proper installation of the pads with new unavoided labels on the fingers, one to the other should be referred to as indicated in Fig. 112. The rear brake pads are the same, they have different over pads: the front pads have long lining, the rear - short.
The brake pedal along with the clutch pedal and the bracket is a separate unit that is attached to the front wall of the body (see Fig. 79).

The design of the brake pedal is similar to the clutch pedal design. With the help of eccentric 9 (Fig. 113), the piston 11 of the main cylinder piston is attached to the pedal. The eccentric finger is put on plastic bushings that do not need to lubricate. With the help of eccentric adjust the gap between the pusher and the piston of the main cylinder. The main cylinder of the brake is made in one casting with the main clutch cylinder and has a common tank for fluid.

Inside the cylinder is a piston 13 with two sealing cuffs: internal plate 4 and outer ring. A thin star-like plate is installed between the piston and the inner cuff. Spring 14 constantly presses the piston in the extreme rear position. At the same time, the edge of the inner cuff transcends the overhead hole A, leaving it open. The opposite end of the spring presses the inlet valve 2 to the bottom of the bottom of the cylinder. In the middle of the intake valve, there is an exhaust valve 1, pressing spring 3.
When you press the pedal, the pusher moves the piston, which the edge of the cuff overlaps the overlap hole A. With the further movement of the piston inside the cylinder, the pressure increases, under the action of which the power of the exhaust valve spring is overpassed, the fluid is supplanted into the pipeline. Under the action of this pressure, the pistons of wheel cylinders are moved, pressing the pads to the drums.
When removing the effort from the pedal, the piston and the pedal under the action of the springs are returned to its original position, and the brake fluid flows back to the main cylinder, opening the inlet valve 2.
The intake valve is used to maintain in the system of the brake drive - in pipelines and wheel cylinders - a small constant pressure (about 1 kg / cm 2), which is determined by the valve springs force. This pressure prevents the air penetration into the system, and it is also necessary so that the cylinder cylinder cylinders can be constantly pressed against the cylinder walls, preventing fluid to leak.
The brake pipelines consist of steel two-layer tubes and connecting reinforcement. Pressure in pipelines in braking is high, so all connections must be sealed.
At the ends of the tubes to join them to fittings there are beads.
Flexible brake pipe hoses consist of an inner rubber tube, braided with two layers of tissue, linked to the rubber, and an outer rubber layer. Metal tips are installed at the ends of the hoses. When installing flexible hoses, you must ensure that they are not twisted. When you twist the hoses, their rigidity increases and additional bends are formed, which violate their correct location.
Clearance adjustment between pads and brake drums
With the wear of the friction linings of the block of gaps between overlays and brake drums increase, and the pedal when braking begins to approach the front wall of the body.
With maximum click on the pedal, the gap between the pedal and the front wall of the body should be at least 20 mm. If the gap is less than 20 mm, then it is necessary to adjust each brake with two eccentric 1 (see Fig. 111) and 6 (see Fig. 112).
For adjustment it is necessary:
1. Raise the wheel, the brake of which is adjustable.
2. Rotating the wheel, slightly turn the adjusting eccentric until the shoe is touched by the drum and the wheel will not slow down.
3. Gradually release the eccentric, turning the wheel with the hand until it becomes free, without the ripping drum behind the block.
4. Adjust the same method of blocks of all wheels.
When adjusting both front brake pads, as well as the front shoe of the rear brake, the wheel must be rotated forward. When adjusting the rear brake pads, the wheel should be rotated back.
5. Check if brake drums are heated when the car is moving.
A warning. Do not need to adjust the brakes to screw the nuts of the pads of the pads and violate their factory setting. You need to regulate these fingers only when changing the pads or friction linings.
In disruption of the factory adjustment of the supporting fingers of the brake pads, as well as when changing the linings, the adjustment of the gap between the pads and the brake drum should be made in this way:
1. Remove the nuts of the supporting fingers slightly and set the supporting fingers into the initial position (tags inside).
2. Pressing the brake pedal with a constant force of 12-16 kg, turn the support fingers so that the lower part of the linings rests on the brake drum. The moment of contact with the drum overlay is determined by increasing the resistance when the supporting finger is rotated. Then tighten the nuts of the supporting fingers in this position and turn the adjusting eccentrics so that the pads overlap in the brake drum.
3. After pressing the pedal, turn the adjustment eccentrics in the opposite direction so that the wheel rotates freely.
In the case of installing new linings or pads assembled with overlays, when the linings are not yet earned to the surface of the drums, the brake drums after said adjustment can be heated somewhat. If the heating is small (the hand "tolerates" when touched to the rod of the drum), then after several braking the pads will take place, and heating will stop. With a strong heating of brake drums, you need adjustable eccentrics somewhat dug the pads from the brake drum. Adjusting the brakes must be carried out when the brake drums are completely cooled and the hub bearings are properly adjusted.
The adjustment of the gap between the pusher and the piston of the main cylinder
This gap is necessary to ensure the return of the piston 13 (Fig. 113) of the main cylinder to its original position when the brake pedal is released to avoid the overlap of the rubber cuffs of the bypass. The gap should be 1.2-2 mm, which corresponds to the free move of the pedal 10-15 mm.
Adjusting the free stroke of the pedal is made by an eccentric, with which the pusher is connected to the pedal. Having looseling the fastening nut of the Eccentric, you should turn it with the key for the hexagon head into one direction or the other side, while the free move at the end of the pedal (from the moment of contacting the thrust buffer with the bracket pedal until the opposite of the pusher with the piston) will not be within 10-15 mm. After establishing the desired gap, the fastening nut of the eccentric must be tightened tightly.
Filling the brake system working fluid
In the brake system, only a special brake fluid should be poured. In the extreme case, in the absence of the required fluid, it can be used, a mixture of anhydrous wine alcohol (rectified) and castor oil in proportion of 1: 1 (by weight).
In the summer it is not recommended to use rectifys, as it evaporates quickly.
Before filling in the system, gaps between pads and brake drums must be adjusted.
To fill the brake system, you need to do the following:
1. Remove the plug in the bulk opening of the main cylinder and fill it with its working fluid.
2. Remove the rubber cap on the bypass valve of the right rear brake cylinder and put on its spherical sphere. Special rubber hose 350-400 mm long. Open the end of the hose is lowered into a glass vessel with a brake fluid with a capacity of at least 0.5 liters. Pour fluid to a vessel to half of its height.
3. Unscrew to 1/2-3 / 4 turnover of the bypass valve, then press the brake pedal several times. You need to click on the pedal quickly, and let it slowly. In this case, the fluid under the pressure of the piston of the main cylinder will fill the pipeline and exhibit air from it. Pouring liquid through the main cylinder must be stopped by the release of air bubbles from the hose, lowered to the vessel with the working fluid. During pumping, it is necessary to felt the working fluid into the reservoir of the main cylinder, not allowing anyway in any case the lack of fluid in the tank, since the air will again penetrate into the system.
4. Tightly wrap the spa valve of the wheel cylinder, remove the rubber hose from it and put the rubber cap.
Wrap the valve follows when the pedal is pressed.
5. Rolling the brakes in the following order: rear right, front right, front left and rear left. On the front brakes having two wheeled cylinders, it is necessary to pump the lower cylinder first, then the upper one.
6. After pumping all four brakes (six cylinders) to add liquid into the master cylinder of the brake and clutch so that its level is 15-20 mm below the upper edge of the opening, and tightly wrap the plug of bulk hole.
With the right gaps between the pads and the drums and the absence of air in the brake pedal system, when pressed to it, the foot should not be lowered more than half of his stroke, after which the foot should feel the resistance of the pedal ("tough" pedal). The lowering of the pedal for the magnitude of more than half of the course indicates excessive gaps between the pads and brake drums.
If with a slight resistance can be pressed on the pedal almost until it stops into the floor ("soft" pedal), this indicates the availability of air in the system.
Caring for brakes
The care of the brakes is to check and maintain the right level of fluid in the main cylinder, the magnitude of the free move of the brake pedal, the gap between the pads and the brake drums.
It is necessary to periodically remove the brake drums of all wheels, inspect the state of the brakes and purify them from dirt and dust. When viewed, it is necessary to check the wear of the brake linings, make sure that the rivets heads are sufficiently recessed in the lining, as well as in the absence of leaks of the fluid from the wheeled cylinders. If there are signs of leaks, the cylinders should be disassembled and rinse the parts with alcohol or brake fluid, remove the precipitate from the grooves at the bottom brake cylinders.
When cleaning, it is impossible to use metal items; It is necessary to use wooden blades. It is also impossible to use liquid mineral origin (gasoline, kerosene, etc.).
Once a year you need to shoot, disassemble and rinse the main and wheeled cylinders and pipelines of the brakes. Pipelines need to rolling the system through the main cylinder; Pumping must be made before the wheel cylinders. Before assembling the main and wheel cylinders, pistons and cuffs should be dipped into the brake fluid.
The main malfunctions of the brakes and how to eliminate them are shown below.
Basic brake malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

Cause of malfunction	Remedy
Increased brake pedal course (pedal touches inclined body body)
Increased gap between pads and drum	Adjust the gap
When braking brake pedal "fails" ("soft" pedal)
The presence of air in the hydraulic drive system	Pump the system (see section "Filling the brake system of working fluid")
Brakes are not disseminated
1. Plugging of the overhead hole A (see Fig. 113) mud in the main cylinder, or overlapping the opening of the cuff due to incomplete waste of the piston (lack of free pedal stroke) or swelling the cuff due to the mineral oil	1. Eliminate blockage or overlapping hole
2. Singing the pistons in the wheeled cylinders or in the main cylinder due to dirt or corrosion	2. Disassemble the cylinder, remove the dirt and rinse thoroughly cylinder in alcohol or brake fluid
When braking a car takes to the side
1. Sulbing pads of pads in one of the brakes 2. Incorrect adjustment of the gap between pads and brake drum 3. Easternactive pressure in the tires of the left and right wheels	1. To establish the cause of grinding and eliminate it. Pads with grinding linings replace 2. Adjust the gap 3. Bring tire pressure to the required
Leak brake fluid from wheeled cylinders
1. Contamination of the brake fluid with particles of dust, sand, fibers from the woolproof material, etc.	1. Remove dirt from the wheeled cylinders, flushing them, and it is not necessary to remove the cylinders of the rear brakes from the brake shield. From the technological groove of wheel cylinders of the front brakes dirt remove with wooden spatula
2. Wear or cuff damage	2. Replace the cuff

HAND BRAKE
The handbrake is designed to slow down the car in the parking lots and hold it on the slopes. To use it as a working brake should only be in emergency cases when the main foot brakes fail. In this case, it is necessary to slow down the sharp and strong pulling of the brake handle, not allowing a long-term stroke of the brake pads about the drum, since the lining and the entire brake overheats and the maximum braking torque decreases and decreases.
Handbrake (Fig. 114) is installed beyond the gearbox and acts on the drive shaft of the car. Brake shield 15 is reinforced on the flange of the back cover of the gearbox. Supporting pads and actually brakes are finger 11, inserted into the back of the back cover of the gearbox and the screw with the knocker. The top ends of the pads are based on the finger, the lower - enter in the slots of the adjustment device 14 consisting of screw and sprocket nut. The pads are tightened by the U-shaped spring 5.

In the upper part of the right pad on the axis 8, the lever 7 of the brake pads, the protrusion of which relies on the expansion link 9, placed between the protrusions of the top ends of the pads. The lever 17 of the drive, connected by the 16-wheel lever, is installed on the axis screwed into the rear cap box. To the outer end of the drive lever, the plug 20 of the drive cable 21 is attached. The drive lever is delayed back the spring 18. The slot in the brake shield, through which the drive lever passes inside the brake, is closed with a rubber cover.
The brake drum 12 is planted on the centering bourge flange of the output shaft of the gearbox and is reinforced by bolts. The flange of the intermediate cardan shaft is attached to the same flange. On the brake drum disk there is a hatch for adjusting the brake, closed with a rubber plug 13.
The drive handle 4, installed on the bracket under the instrument panel on the left side of the driver, has a rail 3, in the teeth of which the dog is included, holding the handle in the inverted state. In order to release the brake, you should turn the handle counterclockwise to 1/6 turns and move from yourself. The brake drive cable 21 is placed in a rigid tube. At the top of the tube, near the front panel of the cabin, there is an opening for lubrication of the cable, closed with spring homutic 2.
At the bottom of the bracket, the switch 4 (Fig. 115) of the handbrake control lamp is installed. When the brake handle is released, the pin 3 presses the plunger and turns off the lamp.

Adjusting manual brake. Weak braking or lack of braking with a fully elongated handle indicate the need to adjust the brake.
The increased stroke of the handle is possible with a large gap between the pads and the drum due to wear of the lining or with a large free progress in the drive mechanism.
The gap between the pads and the manual brake drum must be adjusted in the following order:
1. Raise the jack one rear wheel.
2. Through the adjusting hatch in the brake drum using a screwdriver, wrap the wrap-up nut-star of the adjustment device 14 (see Fig. 114) so \u200b\u200bthat the drum is not turned against the effort of the hands.
3. Unscrew the woofer so much so that the drum 12 is free to rotate, not hurt behind the brake pads. Free rotation of the drum check after pressing the drive lever 17 and return it to its original position,
4. After adjusting, close the hatch in the drum drum cap.
If after this adjustment, the handle turns is still large, then it is necessary to adjust the brake drive. To do this, set the handle 4 of the hand-made brake drive to the extreme front position and adjust the length of the cable with the rotation of the fork 20. Staying the cable, you need to wrap the plug before matching the holes in the fork and lever 17 of the drive, which should be in the rear extreme position until it should be in the shield Brakes (drawn spring 18). Then it is necessary to insert the finger of the fork head upstairs and cake. With proper adjustment of the brake and its drive, the handle 4 should be drawn by hand when the car is slowed down at more than 7-11 of the railclosure.