The chapter is provided in part for information purposes. Illustrations of obviously degraded quality.
general characteristics
The vehicle is equipped with a single-plate dry clutch with a central diaphragm pressure spring and a hydraulic clutch drive. Four damper springs are installed on the driven disc. The driven disc is mounted on the splines of the transmission drive shaft.
The pressure drive disc is mounted on the flywheel. The diaphragm pressure spring is installed so that when the pedal is released, the diaphragm spring presses the pressure drive disc against the follower. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the release bearing presses on the inner part of the diaphragm pressure spring, while the spring, bending, moves the pressure drive disc away from the driven one.
Rice. 5.2. Details of the clutch hydraulic drive: 1 - clutch slave cylinder; 2 - clutch master cylinder; 3 - bracket for mounting the vacuum amplifier; 4 - bracket with a clutch pedal; 5 - clutch drive hose.
Removing air from the hydraulic drive
Attention! The working fluid must be removed from the painted surface. If there is air in the clutch actuator, it must be removed. The fluid level should be checked regularly and top up if necessary.1. Add working fluid to the hydraulic reservoir.
2. Connect the hose to the priming valve and place the other end of the hose in a container with the working fluid.
3. Evacuate the air from the hydraulic actuator:
- slowly press the clutch pedal;
- without releasing the clutch pedal, unscrew the bleed bolt until the fluid starts to flow, then tighten the bolt again;
- continue the above procedure until air bubbles disappear from the liquid.
Clutch pedal
Checking and adjusting the clutch pedal1. Check the pedal height. Pedal height above the floor 160 - 180 mm. Loosen the nut and rotate the bolt until the pedal is at the correct height, then tighten the nut.
2. Check the pedal free play and tappet clearance. Clutch Pedal Free Play - Press down on the pedal until you feel resistance. Free travel should be 5 - 15 mm. Push Rod Clearance - Press down on the pedal lightly until you feel a slight resistance. Pusher gap: 1 - 5 mm.
3. If necessary, adjust the pedal free travel and the pusher clearance:
- unscrew the nut and turn the pusher until the pedal travel and the pusher clearance are normal;
- tighten the nut;
- adjust the pedal free travel and check the pedal height.
4. Check the clutch function:
- turn on the parking brake and turn the wheels;
- start the engine, it should idle;
- without pressing the clutch pedal, slowly put the lever into reverse gear.
- Slowly press the clutch pedal and measure the stroke from the moment the noise disappears to the end of the stroke. Standard stroke: 25 mm or more. If the stroke is not correct, you need to check the following:
1. Check the pedal height.
2. Check tappet clearance and pedal free play.
3. Bleed air from the clutch actuator.
4. Check the condition of the clutch discs.
Hydraulic drive
Clutch master cylinderDisconnecting the master cylinder
1. Remove the hydraulic fluid from the actuator.
2. Disconnect the drive hose.
3. Disconnect the master cylinder pusher from the clutch pedal.
4. Unscrew the nut, disconnect the clutch pedal from the master cylinder and remove it.
Dismantling the master cylinder
1. Remove the hose
2. Remove the push rod, protective boot, and spring O-ring.
3. Remove the piston.
Use compressed air to clean the disassembled parts.
1. Check the cylinder parts for scratches or rust, if any, clean or replace the pump.
2.Check the piston and piston cup for wear, scratches, cracks or burrs.
3.Check the follower for wear or damage.
Master cylinder assembly
1. Lubricate both sides of the piston cup with clutch fluid.
2. Insert the piston into the master cylinder.
3. Secure the push rod with the O-ring.
Installing the master cylinder
1. Insert the master cylinder rod into the clutch pedal and tighten the nut to 7.8 N · m. Tighten the nuts with a torque of 11 ± 1 N · m on two bolts located on the vacuum booster mounting bracket and install the clutch master cylinder on the vacuum booster mounting bracket;
2. Connect the hose.
3. Bleed air from the hydraulic actuator and adjust the height of the clutch pedal.
The service life of the clutch cable for Chery Amulet is from 30 to 50 thousand mileage, depending on the quality of the cable itself and the accuracy of the driver. Equally important is the correct installation and adjustment of the cable, as well as the selection of the correct manufacturer. How to correctly and quickly change the Chery Amulet clutch cable, how to adjust it, we reveal all the subtleties of the issue right now.
Every self-respecting driver has the habit of carrying a spare clutch cable in the trunk. This is not paranoia, this is a reality that all owners of Chery Amulet and other budget cars with a mechanical cable clutch mechanism face. A cliff on the road far from civilization may end up not too optimistic. Therefore, there should still be some kind of rope in stock. The problem is that the Ford cable is not suitable for the A15 Amulet. Also, the cables from the second Golf, on the platform of which the Amulet is built, do not fit into the configuration.
Pay attention to what the original cable looks like
"> Quality trunks and seals"> Corresponding casing length">Judging by the reviews of the owners, they give preference to the original Chery clutch cable with a catalog number A11-1602040... Its price fluctuates depending on the greed of the seller and can range from 120 to 450 hryvnia (from 4 to 15 dollars). The price fork is solid, but there is only one cable. There are also analogues. In terms of quality, they are no worse than the original, although there is no need to buy anonymous cables at all. There are several options on store shelves:
- KLM AutoParts, PRC, catalog number A11-1602040АВ ;
- the cable is installed from the factory Chery A11-1602040AB-1 and in stores it is the most expensive, while the real manufacturer is not advertised;
- GLOBER, catalog number 83-4129 .
For replacement, it may also come in handy latch cable with article number A11-1602103 and rubber sleeve(clutch cable damper) A11-1602101 in the event that their wear is found.
Signs of a malfunction of the clutch cable Chery Amulet
The main and most unpleasant reason for replacing the cable is a break. However, there are no breaks out of the blue and the condition of the cable always affects the behavior of the car. Here are just a few signs that the clutch cable is about to resign:
- the clutch is not completely disengaged, leads, in this case, it is quite possible that the reason is precisely in the cable, since any jamming of the metal cable in the casing due to the breakage of at least one core will lead to such symptoms;
- clutch slips, does not turn on completely, this can also be blamed on the condition of the metal cable, which moves too tightly in the casing, the cause may be a wire break or bend as a result of improper installation.
The reason for the failure of the cable is a break in the casing ...
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... and lack of lubrication under the corrugationsIn addition, incorrect adjustment of the clutch pedal free travel also leads to incorrect operation of the entire mechanism. It is clearly not worth delaying the replacement, since we expose not only our nerves and safety, but also quite expensive ones under attack. driven disc, release bearing, clutch basket, as well as gears and synchronizers gearboxes. And the replacement will take no more than 15 minutes with bare hands.
How to change the clutch cable Chery Amulet
No tools are needed to replace. All the work can be done literally with bare hands, and very quickly. It is enough to follow the step-by-step instructions and do not forget to grease the new cable.
"Before installing a new clutch cable, be sure to dig in the casing fresh engine oil, and under the corrugation of the cable we stuff grease... This will save us from squeaks and will increase the cable resource by at least one and a half times. "
The method for replacing the cable is as follows:
1. Raise the clutch release lever and remove the metal retainer."> ">
2. Disengage the cable from the lever. ">
3. We remove the cable from the support on the gearbox housing. ">
4. Remove the rubber damper and inspect it. 5. If necessary, we carry out a replacement."> 6. In the cabin, we disengage the cable with the pedal lever.">
After that, you can safely remove the cable and insert a new one in the same way, not forgetting to lubricate it. Pay attention to the condition of the rubber damper. It often wears out, which leads to distortion of the casing and chafing it, and this is fraught with the ingress of dust, water and dirt under the sheath of the cable. It remains to adjust the free travel of the clutch pedal.
How to adjust the free travel of the clutch pedal on Cherie Amulet
To check and adjust the free travel of the clutch pedal, we only need two open-ended keys: 18 and 19. After installing a new cable, we must make the adjustment, since the clutch can slip or lead. Clutch lever free play is rated between two and three mm. We do this:
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1. Raise the clutch lever and check the free play. The denomination is no more than 3 mm. 2. Lift the corrugation of the cable by sliding it up the casing.">
A dry single-plate clutch with a central diaphragm spring is installed on Chery Amulet cars.
The pressure plate 1 (Fig. 6.1) is mounted in a steel cast casing 3, attached by six bolts to the engine crankshaft.
The driven disk 1 (Fig. 6.2) is installed on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox and is clamped by the diaphragm spring 2 (see Fig. 6.1) between the flywheel 2 (see Fig. 6.2), attached by nine bolts to the casing 3 (see Fig. 6.1 ) clutch, and pressure plate 1.
The clutch release drive is cable. The free shoulder of the lever 3 (Fig.6.3) of the clutch release is influenced by the drive cable 1 ...
Rice. 6.1. Clutch cover with pressure plate: 1 - pressure plate; 2 - diaphragm spring; 3 - clutch cover
Rice. 6.2. Driven clutch disc with flywheel: 1 - driven disc; 2 - flywheel
The other end of which is attached to the clutch pedal lever. Lever 3 turns the fork installed in the gearbox, which, in turn, moves through the clutch release bearing ...
The clutch release rod (shown in the photo with an arrow), passing inside the hollow input shaft of the gearbox.
The clutch release rod acts on the thrust bearing (shown in the photo by the arrow with the flywheel and the clutch driven disc removed for clarity), secured by a fixing spring on the petals of the diaphragm pressure spring.
Rice. 6.3. Clutch release drive: 1 - clutch release drive cable; 2 - adjusting sleeve of the cable tip; 3 - clutch release lever
To compensate for the wear of the clutch disc linings and increase the length of the drive cable due to its being pulled out in operation, the cable sheath length adjustment is provided by the adjusting sleeve 2 (see Fig. B.H.) installed at the lower end of the cable (see "Adjusting the clutch release drive") ...
Useful Tips
In order for the clutch to serve for a long time and trouble-free, do not constantly keep your foot on the clutch pedal. This bad habit is often acquired while learning to drive in driving schools for fear of not having time to disengage the clutch when the car stops. In addition to the quick fatigue of the leg, which is all the time above the pedal, the clutch is at least a little, but squeezed out, and the driven disc slips and wears out at the same time. For the same reason, we do not recommend keeping the clutch off for a long time (for example, in traffic jams). If you do not have to immediately get under way, it is better to engage the gearbox in neutral and release the pedal.
Clutch slip can be easily determined using a tachometer. If, while driving, with a sharp press on the accelerator pedal, the speed rises sharply, and then falls a little and the car starts to accelerate, the clutch requires repair.
Possible clutch malfunctions, their causes and remedies
| Cause of malfunction | Remedy |
| Incomplete clutch disengagement (clutch "leads") | |
| Insufficient full travel of the clutch pedal | Adjust the clutch release drive |
| Warping of the driven disc (face runout more than 0.5 mm) | Straighten or replace disc |
| Sticking of the driven disc hub on the splines of the input shaft | Clean the slots, rinse with white spirit. If the splines are worn, replace the input shaft or driven disc |
| Skewed or warped pressure plate | |
| Loose rivets or breakage of the clutch disc friction linings | Replace linings or driven disc, check disc face runout |
| Violation of the clutch cable | Replace the cable |
| Incomplete clutch engagement (clutch "slips") | |
| Increased wear or burning of the friction linings of the driven disc | Replace friction pads or clutch plate assembly |
| Damaged or seized clutch drive | |
| Jerks during clutch operation | |
| Oiling of the clutch disc friction linings, flywheel surfaces and pressure disc | Thoroughly flush oily surfaces with white spirit, replace worn or damaged gearbox and engine oil seals |
| Sticking in the clutch drive | Eliminate the causes of seizure. Replace damaged parts |
| Surface damage or warpage of the pressure plate | Replace pressure plate assembly |
| Increased noise when engaging the clutch | |
| Breakage of the damper springs of the driven disc | Replace driven disc assembly |
CLUTCH DESIGN FEATURES
A dry single-plate clutch with a central diaphragm spring is installed on Chery Amulet cars.
The pressure plate 1 (Fig. 6.1) is mounted in a steel cast casing 3, attached by six bolts to the engine crankshaft.
The driven disk 1 (Fig. 6.2) is installed on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox and is clamped by a diaphragm spring 2 (see Fig. 6.1) between the flywheel 2 (see Fig. 6.2), attached by nine bolts to the casing 3 (see Fig. 6.1 ) clutch, and pressure plate 1.
The clutch release drive is cable.
The free shoulder of the lever 3 (Fig.6.3) of the clutch release is influenced by the drive cable 1 ...
The other end of which is attached to the clutch pedal lever. Lever 3 turns the fork installed in the gearbox, which, in turn, moves through the clutch release bearing ...
The clutch release rod (shown in the photo with an arrow), passing inside the hollow input shaft of the gearbox.
The clutch release rod acts on the thrust bearing (shown in the photo by the arrow with the flywheel and the clutch driven disc removed for clarity), secured by a fixing spring on the petals of the diaphragm pressure spring.
To compensate for the wear of the clutch disc lining and increase the length of the drive cable due to its being pulled out in operation, the length of the cable sheath can be adjusted with an adjusting sleeve 2 (see Fig. 6.3) installed at the lower end of the cable.
Rice. 6.1. Clutch cover with pressure plate: 1-pressure disc; 2-diaphragm spring; 3-clutch cover
Rice. 6.2. Clutch disc with flywheel: 1-driven disc; 2-flywheel
Rice. 6.3. Clutch release drive: 1-clutch release drive cable; 2-adjusting sleeve for the cable end; 3-clutch release lever
USEFUL TIPS
In order for the clutch to serve for a long time and trouble-free, do not constantly keep your foot on the clutch pedal. This bad habit is often acquired while learning to drive in driving schools for fear of not having time to disengage the clutch when the car stops. In addition to the quick fatigue of the leg,
located all the time above the pedal, the clutch is at least a little, but squeezed out, and the driven disc slips and wears out at the same time. For the same reason, we do not recommend keeping the clutch off for a long time (for example, in traffic jams).
If you do not have to immediately get under way, it is better to engage the gearbox in neutral and release the pedal.
Clutch slip can be easily determined using a tachometer. If, while driving, with a sharp press on the accelerator pedal, the speed rises sharply, and then falls a little and the car starts to accelerate, the clutch requires repair.
The slipping of the clutch disc does not allow the car to be operated, but it makes it possible to get to the place of repair. It is necessary to say about the somewhat unusual design of the clutch of this car.
It is bolted directly to the engine crankshaft (usually a flywheel is bolted), inside it is attached to a pressure plate in the form of a spring diaphragm with a thrust bearing in the center.
Clamped between the basket and the flywheel attached to the basket. The stem presses on the disc thrust bearing (when depressing the clutch pedal), the diaphragm straightens and with its edges acts on the basket petals - the clutch disc is free.
The stem passes through the hollow input shaft, and rests on the end of the box into an angular contact bearing. It is on this bearing that the clutch release lever acts.
In fact, this is not a Chinese invention - such a clutch and gearbox design has been widely used by VW Audi Group engineers since the 80s.
When replacing a worn clutch disc, it is recommended to change the thrust bearing and its rod for high-quality clutch operation.
1. First, detach by releasing the retainer plate.
2. Remove the wire connector from the reverse sensor
3. Disconnect and remove the crankshaft position sensor.
4.
5. and remove it by disconnecting the weight.
6. Disconnect the two rods of the backstage drive gear shifting.
8. Now we unscrew the drive fastening nut on the hub and remove the wheels after placing the machine on the supports.
9. We unscrew the three bolts of the ball joint and disconnect it from the lever.
10. Disconnect the steering rod from the steering knuckle, the drive will now easily slide off the spline on the hub.
11. We repeat the operations of clauses 8,9,10 on the other hand.
12. Unscrew the bolt securing the left transmission support.
13. We unscrew the bolts securing the plate of the amplifier of the cylinder block and a downpipe.
Two under the exhaust manifold ...
... two bolts under the oil filter.
Having unscrewed three more, remove the amplifier.
14. Now place a secure support under the engine and you can unscrew the bracket for attaching the front support to the clutch housing.
15. We unscrew the bolts securing the box to the engine.
Two bolts on the side of the oil filter.
Two more boxes on top.
16. Three bolts release the rear support mounting bracket.
ATTENTION: for clarity, the photos were taken with the drive removed. In our case, it is not necessary to unscrew the drive to replace the clutch, it is enough to remove its splined part from the hub. This will allow you to move and leave the box hanging without removing it from under the machine.
17.Move the gearbox before the output of the input shaft.
18. Having gained access to the flywheel (this is not a basket!), we unscrew the bolts of its fastening to the basket. ATTENTION: All bolts have a non-standard 9mm head.
Flywheel should be carefully inspected.- the surface on which the clutch disc works must be perfectly smooth and the ring gear must not be damaged. Replace the flywheel if necessary.
The surface of the clutch basket (screwed to the crankshaft) should be just as smooth. If there is damage, replace the basket.
The arrow shows the spring, which must be removed to gain access to the bolts securing the basket to the flywheel (if changed).
19. Installing a new clutch disc the protruding part of the hub outward and carefully center it. ATTENTION: Flywheel and basket are balanced together and changing their position relative to the crankshaft is not allowed. For correct assembly, there are pins on the flywheel that must be aligned with the slot in the basket or using the previously supplied marks.
20.Putting everything in reverse order, observing the tightening torques of the threaded connections.
21. Before installing the wheels, it will be convenient replace thrust bearing and its stock.
22. Gently bend the edge from the end of the box and remove the lid. If it is significantly deformed, it may be necessary to install a new one.
23. We take out the thrust bearing with a magnet.
24. We remove the thrust bearing rod.
25. Putting it up in reverse order installing new parts.
26. Adjust the clutch with the nut and bushing of the clutch cable.
27. After a short run, adjust the clutch again - the free play of the lever should be 2-3 mm.
We move the lever until the moment of significant resistance - this is free play.
WARNING: The gearbox is heavy enough, and the nuts of the drives on the wheel hubs are tightened to a significant torque; therefore, it is recommended to carry out the work with an assistant.
