Why doesn't reverse gear on the Lada turn on? Why poorly shifting gears Poorly turned on the first on the grant

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Year of issue: 2014.
Asks: Anonymous.
Essence of the question: after changing the oil in the gearbox, the second gear does not turn on well?

On my Grant, bought in 2014, after changing the oil, the second gear turns on poorly. The oil was changed in the checkpoint. It has also been noticed that it sometimes does not work. He too. Question: why does the second speed not turn on on the Lada Grant? I also wanted to know if it was possible to change the sensor ourselves.

Gears are bad, we know why

As for the first question, everything seems to be clear. The viscosity of the "new oil" was lower than it was. Therefore, at high speeds, switching must be performed "with a pause".

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Francois "experienced owner"

An experienced car enthusiast. First there was Vaz-2107, then Russian front-wheel drive, then foreign cars, there were even right-hand drive cars. I try as a "doctor" to fully watch and listen to the car. I give my name to each of my vehicles.

Explanation of the difficult inclusion of gears on the Lada Granta

The 81st gearbox has a special feature: gear ratios at stages 1 and 2 differ to the maximum. When shifting, you must wait for the input shaft to slow down. And it slowed down after changing the oil, it became worse, for which there may be reasons:

Underfilling (albeit small);
Low viscosity.

Suppose, on Kalina 2 or on Grant, the second speed turns on poorly, and the owner decided to fix everything - raise the oil level or replace it again. The first option looks more reasonable. But it is better to postpone the replacement: maybe the defect will cease to manifest itself. The bottom line is that the oil will gradually thicken.

For control, unscrew the top plug.

On box 2181, oil level control is difficult (see photo). The filling volume is 2.2-2.3 liters.

Exceeding the filling volume leads to the destruction of the oil seals. Be careful!

Case from practice

After replacing, we go like this:

On the first motor we do not tighten up to 3000 rpm - go to the second "with a pause";

You can go earlier, then the "pause" is reduced.

At revolutions over 3000 and without a long pause, the transition "1-2" is excluded.

Example in the video: the synchronizer does not help

Diagnostics and replacement of the speed sensor

Let's start answering the last question. Never, under any circumstances, try to unscrew the mount of the speed sensor. It is attached to the gearbox housing and has access to it. But this does not mean that the sensor can be easily replaced.

Speed sensor on box 2181

Even when installing the "old" sensor, it will not be possible to achieve complete tightness. The oil will gradually leave the crankcase, and it is difficult to top up in the 2181 gearbox.

So, the reader understood: dismantling the sensor is prohibited, even if it is not removed for replacement.

When gears are poorly shifted, driving becomes not only unpleasant, but also unsafe. Let's look at the main reasons why gear changes are poor or not at all. And since the automatic transmission and manual transmission are too different, we will consider them separately.

If you have a mechanic

Poor gear shifting on a car with manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a clutch malfunction when it does not completely disengage (drive). The first sign of this malfunction is that the reverse gear is engaged with a characteristic bang. The rear one reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than other gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox. And, finally, the third - excessive wear of gearbox synchronizers.

There are also several clutch malfunctions in which manual transmission gears are poorly shifted:

Excessive wear of the synchronizers is predominantly in those gears that are turned on more often: these are usually the first, second and third. The rear is not included in this list, since it does not have a synchronizer. When you have poor gear changes, and you assume that the reason for this is the wear of the synchronizers, firstly, you should have difficulties with this only on the go. Secondly, it is better to switch in this case if you use double squeeze.

For those who do not know what a double squeeze is. To upshift: depress the clutch, engage neutral, release and depress the clutch again, engage the gear.

Backlash in the so-called "helicopter" is one of the reasons for the fuzzy engagement of gears

To switch to a lower one: double squeezing must be combined with a gas release, that is, when the clutch pedal is released, and the gearbox is in neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. So they switch gears to an auto box which does not have synchronizers. If the box will shift more easily using a double release, then worn synchronizers are most likely to blame for poor gear shifting.

If the gears are poorly shifted when the car is stationary with the engine turned off, the malfunction may only be in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox.

Look for a breakdown in it or check if it is correctly adjusted. Don't even think about the clutch and synchromesh.

For those who have a machine gun

If your car has an automatic transmission. It will not hurt you to know the modes in which your machine can operate:

The automatic gearbox has a still more button on the mode switch lever with the inscription O / D OFF. When it is turned on, the inclusion prohibition occurs, which increases the gears of the analogue of the 5th gear of the manual transmission. That is, if your automatic machine has 4 gears for moving forward, then for a more dynamic acceleration it will use only three lower gears.

The automatic transmission is much more complicated than those encountered with manual transmissions about a gearbox malfunction, and the chances of repairing it in your garage are small. But despite this, you still need to know something about her at least in order not to harm her by improper operation.

The automatic gearbox is much more demanding on the accuracy of maintaining the oil level in it than the mechanics. Both too low and excessively high oil levels are very harmful to it. Both can lead to serious damage. In both cases, oil foaming occurs. With a lack of oil due to the fact that the oil pump, together with the oil, begins to take in air. If there is an excess of oil, it is foamed by rotating parts, which in this case are immersed in it. Foamed oil compresses better and has low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you operate the machine with such oil, the pressure in its control systems will be low. Which will lead to slipping of the clutches and their intense wear. The impaired thermal conductivity will not allow all excess heat to be removed. That, together with low pressure, will cause the machine to fail and require serious repairs.

Foamed oil has a larger volume. Therefore, checking the oil will indicate a level that is too high. If you find that the oil level has risen for no apparent reason, you need to turn off the engine and let the oil settle. Then check the level again. If it turns out to be low, you need to safely top up the required porium and repeat the check.

The oil level in the vending machine is checked using a dipstick or through a control hole closed with a plug.

How to check the oil level with a dipstick

Warm up the oil to operating temperature (for this you need to drive about 15 km).

Select a flat horizontal area for measurement. Put the car on the handbrake.

Move the lever to select the operating mode of the box through all positions, lingering in each from 3 to 5 seconds, until the machine is triggered.
Leave the mode selector in position P, and in this position determine the oil level.
Without turning off the engine, remove the oil dipstick, wipe it dry and reinsert it into the tube until it stops, then pull it out and read the readings. The upper limit of traces of oil on a dry dipstick should be at the mark marked hot or in an area with intersecting notches.

If the level is insufficient, you can add oil through the tube into which the dipstick is inserted. Do not forget that the automatic transmission is afraid of dirt, so only top up with clean new oil. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth that will not drop threads.

When checking the oil level, pay attention to its appearance. A dark liquid with a burning smell indicates that not everything is in order in the unit. First, try changing the oil and filter in the automatic transmission. The milky color of ATF indicates that coolant has entered the box. The coolant softens and inflates the material from which the clutches are made. Do not hesitate to change such oil, having previously eliminated the cause of the antifreeze getting into the box, otherwise the machine will suffer significant damage. Coolant can enter the box due to a leak in the oil section in the radiator of the cooling system. In this case, the emulsion will be observed both in the box and in the engine cooling system.

The most common machine malfunctions

The car does not drive forward and reverse movement is normal. Possible reasons: wear of the forward clutch friction clutch, a defect in the piston of this clutch, breakage of the rings of the same clutch, jamming of the valve body valves.
There is no reverse speed, there are only 1 and 2 forward. Probable reasons: wear of the reverse clutch clutches, malfunction of the piston of this clutch, damage to the spline connection in the drum housing, another defect of this drum.
No back, forward everything works. Reasons: wear of the brake band, malfunction of the piston of this band or breakage of its rod, defects in the braking package.
There is no forward or backward movement when any mode is turned on, there is a push to switch, but the car stands still. Reasons: malfunction of the torque converter, lack of oil, clogged filter.
Only reverse, 1st and 2nd gears are included. Reasons: jamming of the valve in the valve body, low oil level, general wear of pistons and clutches of gear clutches that do not turn on.

The reverse speed is rarely turned on the first time, and the process itself is accompanied by a crunch? The owners of not only Lada Priora, Kalina and Granta models, but also modern Lada Vesta and XRAY cars face similar problems. We will tell you what is the reason for this ailment.

The peculiarity of reverse gear on LADA cars is that it has no synchronizers. Therefore, the problem of engaging the reverse speed is most often associated with the fact that the gear hits the tooth.

What to do if reverse gear does not engage:

If you feel that the reverse speed has not reached, release the clutch a little, the gear will move, and the gearshift lever will be fully inserted.
After disengaging the clutch, try to engage reverse gear after 2-3 seconds.
Try to squeeze the clutch and put it in neutral, then release the clutch, and then squeeze and engage the rear again.
Try reverse gear at a different speed. For example, first the 4th or 5th gear, and then reverse.

Sometimes changing the transmission oil helps to solve the problem of the reverse gear.

Articles about tuning Lada Xray

Some LADA owners write that the gearbox began to work normally only after a certain mileage (3000-5000 km).

Another reason for the poor engagement of reverse gear on the Lada Vesta is the ingress of moisture under the boot of the gearshift mechanism (in the engine compartment).

If none of the tips helped to solve the problem, contact your authorized dealer for help (there may be a problem in the gearbox). Have you encountered similar cases? How did you solve the problem?

The clarity of the gears and the operation of the entire gearshift mechanism are often of concern to owners of cars with a manual transmission. A common problem is that after starting the engine, one or more gears are engaged with great effort or not completely, there is no way to turn on the speed, at the moment of turning on, extraneous noises are heard, unnecessary vibrations appear, etc.

Such malfunctions appear unexpectedly, and difficulty in shifting gears can increase gradually. Speeds can be badly turned on "cold" and / or "hot". It is noteworthy that often the gears in the manual transmission on a muffled engine switch normally.

Read in this article

Poor gears turn on when the engine is running: possible causes

At the very beginning, it should be noted that the inability to engage gear with the engine not running may indicate a serious gearbox malfunction, which consists in the failure of the synchronizers. A second cause could be gear wear or breakage. It is also possible jamming of units and mechanisms responsible for the transfer of force from the lever in the cabin to the checkpoint when choosing a gear.

To accurately determine the reasons, in the first case, you will need to remove the box for disassembly and subsequent troubleshooting, in the second case, it is necessary to identify and replace broken units. In some cases, it is enough to carry out their prevention: removal, lubrication and careful adjustment.

As for the problem switching when the internal combustion engine is running, then in the list of the most frequent malfunctions they note:

lack of transmission oil in the gearbox;
problems with the clutch mechanism;

Low transmission oil level

Not having enough oil in the box makes the gear shifting process extremely difficult, but the speeds must be engaged. With such a switch, a metallic crunch is heard, the box, when driving in the engaged gear, begins to make a lot of noise and "howl".

The complete absence of lubrication in the gearbox will not allow shifting gears, since without oil, the synchronizers will not be able to work properly, and there will be no engagement of the gears in the box.

Any manifestation of these symptoms requires immediate cessation of vehicle operation and checking the level of transmission oil in the gearbox. It is also necessary to inspect the gearbox for damage to the housing, oil leaks through the oil seals and gaskets.

It should be noted that for manual transmissions of many cars, the oil in the box from the factory is filled for the entire service life. In practice, replacement is recommended every 60-80 km. mileage.

Clutch malfunctions

Simply put, the clutch is a mechanism that transfers the engine torque to the transmission, and also opens the engine and transmission so that gear changes can be made. Failure of individual components of this unit can make it impossible to change gear precisely when the engine is running.

Brake fluid leaks

Many modern cars are designed to use the brake fluid as the clutch fluid. If there is not enough fluid in the hydraulic system of the clutch drive, then the clutch will not be fully engaged.

In this case, the programs will turn on tightly or not turn on at all. For an initial check, look at the fluid level in the reservoir. If the level is low, it is necessary to check for leaks, repair defects and bleed the clutch.

In the event that the fluid level is normal and no other reasons have been identified, it will be necessary to remove the gearbox to inspect the clutch elements. Usually, when you try to turn on the speed and breakdowns of this mechanism, loud grinding metal sounds from the gearbox itself are not heard.

Gears may not engage or not fully engage if the malfunction is associated with the clutch basket. The release bearing can also be the cause. In the event that the specified bearing does not move freely along the input shaft or it is seized, then the part needs to be replaced.

It should be added separately that the primary sign of problems with the release is the appearance of a rustle or a distinct hum on a running car. Noises appear only when the clutch pedal is depressed to the floor. Such extraneous sounds can be present both on a cold car and on a warm one. After releasing the clutch pedal, the noise should disappear. A jammed clutch release will not allow the clutch to engage, which complicates gear shifting, and can also lead to rapid wear and destruction of other elements of the clutch mechanism.

Basket malfunctions are often associated with critical wear of the petals. Deterioration means that the basket will no longer perform its function when heated. As the temperature rises, the pressure plate cannot be fully retracted by means of the clutch basket. The result is very difficult gear shifting after a slight warm-up of the engine.

After removing the box, it is necessary to inspect the basket for deformation, traces of overheating and other defects. If found, the element must be replaced.

Another reason for the fact that the gears do not engage on a running machine, or are engaged with force, may be a worn clutch disc.

After disassembly, it is necessary to inspect the friction pads on the disc. They should not be critically worn out, burnt or damaged, and disc deformation is also not allowed. Additionally, during the inspection of the clutch, a check of the diaphragm springs is required. After replacing the failed clutch elements, the box must be well centered during subsequent assembly, and the clutch must be pumped.