Frequent car breakdowns on the road are an unpleasant, but quite traditional phenomenon. And sometimes even timely prevention cannot save you from them. Troubleshooting in the field will require at least a standard set of auto tools and a jack. In addition, it would be useful to have a supply of rags for cleaning surfaces and a special repair “substrate” that allows you to keep your clothes relatively clean.

The most common malfunctions that occur on the road

1) The motor does not rotate when trying to start

Possible causes of problems:

The battery is low;

Battery contacts have oxidized or become loose;

Malfunction in the ignition system (relay, starter, ignition are damaged or out of order);

The clutch is not fully depressed;

Lack of contact in the starter circuit;

The flywheel has jammed the gear.

2) The motor rotates, but does not start

Possible causes of problems:

Lost contact in the ignition system;

The spark plug electrodes are worn out;

Loss of contact at the battery terminals;

Lack of required speed to start due to low battery charge;

There is no fuel in the tank;

There is a fuel leak in the injector area;

Malfunction in the carburetor mechanism;

Malfunction in the ignition or power systems.

3) Difficult "cold start"

Starting the engine in conditions low temperatures is most often difficult due to:

Battery discharge;

Faulty nozzle;

Problems with the fuel injection system.

4) Problems starting a hot engine

Most likely reasons:

Lack of fuel in the system;

Air filter clogged (needs replacement);

Oxidation of battery contacts.

5) Problems with the starter

If, when starting the starter, it is observed increased level noise or other signs of malfunction (uneven operation, etc.), the cause may be:

Wear of the starter itself in the gear area;

Lost or loose fasteners.

6) The engine stalls after starting

Most likely reasons:

Irregularities at work fuel pump;

Air entering the intake manifold or carburetor;

Short circuit in the area of ​​electrical connections (coil, generator, distributor).

7) Oil leak in the engine area

Abundant traces of oil on the engine indicate a loss of system tightness.

8) Uneven operation of the engine at idle

Uneven work on idle speed may be a result of a vacuum leak. It is necessary to check the condition of the air filter and hose system.

9) Leak detected brake fluid

Ideally, such a breakdown requires the car to be towed. But if this is not possible, you should try replacing it with antifreeze, strong alcohol, or even as a last resort soap solution. Such a “substitution” will allow you to carefully continue your journey to the nearest service station, where the fluid will be replaced with standard fluid after flushing the system.

10) The carbon rod of the distributor is faulty

A pencil hygel will temporarily help replace the distributor ember - its carbon structure serves as a completely equivalent analogue.

11) It is necessary to urgently replace the clamp

You can replace the standard clamp with a piece of wire, tightly wrapping it around the joint and securing it in the form of twisted “tendrils.” In the future, such an “express clamp” requires prompt replacement.

12) The gasket is torn

The cardboard gasket can be restored by first washing it with white spirit, gasoline or acetone and securing the broken area with insulating tape or other material. Of course, at the first opportunity such an “alternative” option must be replaced.

13) The nut does not turn off

The rusted nut must first be moistened with gasoline or kerosene, wait about a quarter of an hour, and then tighten it with a wrench and gently tap it with a hammer until the nut moves along the thread.

DIAGNOSTICS

Diagnostics is the basis of repair. It’s not for nothing that car service centers appoint the most experienced technicians as inspectors - errors in diagnostics and determining the scope of repairs lead to financial losses for customers, incorrect understanding of orders by mechanics and repeated work.
But correct definition troubleshooting is not only available to professional mechanics. This is the result of knowledge combined with a systematic approach.
It is useful to master the diagnosis of at least some faults in order to understand the volume, cost and timing of the upcoming work and decide who to entrust their elimination - yourself, a mechanic at a parking lot or an auto repair company.
This guide covers common faults for most types passenger cars. It will help you quickly find the cause and begin repairs.
If to the list given in the book characteristic features faults and possible causes add entries from personal experience and the experience of others, you will get a solid database of the causes of malfunctions specific car and diagnosis will not be a problem.

When diagnosing malfunctions:
. use the method of elimination, move from simple to complex, do not miss the obvious;
. Having found out the cause of the malfunction, take measures to prevent it from happening again;
. If electrical network fails due to a poor connection, check all other connections on the network so that they do not fail;
. if a fuse frequently blows, find out the reason, and do not automatically replace it;
. remember that the failure of one part may precede the failure of more important detail or poor system performance.

Problems starting a working engine

Non-technical reasons
Condensation on the spark plugs after the car has been idle for a long time without operation.
Moisture on distributor cap, wires high voltage and their tips (on a summer morning after a night with temperature changes, dew or fog).
Drizzle, frost or moisture on the distributor cap, high voltage wires and their tips (on a winter morning after a night with temperature changes).
Water on the distributor cap, high voltage wires and their tips after crossing deep puddles or fording.
There is a plug in the exhaust pipe (clogged with earth after the maneuver in reverse in a hole, ditch or anything else stuck by people) or water (if the car is in deep water).
The gear is engaged instead of the neutral position.
The driver forgot to disable his own feed lock
fuel or current.

The reason is in the electrical system.

The fuse has blown.
Bad contact ground wires from the engine to the body.
The wires in the starting circuit are broken or not connected tightly.
The ignition switch is damaged.
Battery terminals are loose or corroded.
The battery is discharged or damaged (this will not
headlights and windshield wipers work).
Malfunction anti-theft system(or other system) included in the ignition system circuit.
The starter gear is stuck in the flywheel ring.
Damaged traction relay starter.

The reason is in the fuel system

Does not work solenoid valve in the carburetor fuel line when the ignition is turned on.
Lean mixture when the engine is cold, the air damper is not closed.
A lean mixture means air leaks in addition to the carburetor diffuser.
Rich mixture when the engine is hot, the air damper is closed.
Excess gasoline in intake manifold- pumping sharp pressing on the gas pedal.
Empty fuel tank.
Fuel does not reach the carburetor or injection nozzles - clogged fuel filter, tubes or tank ventilation.
The fuel pump is faulty. Water in fuel.
Vapor locks in the fuel line in hot weather.
The air filter is heavily soiled. Too much high level fuel in the carburetor - over-enrichment of the mixture.
The air damper is stuck.
The carburetor is out of adjustment.
The carburetor nozzles or injection nozzles are dirty.
The gasoline vapor recovery system is faulty.

The reason is in the ignition system

For all ignition systems

The spark plugs are oily or filled with fuel.
The spark plugs have the wrong gap between the electrodes.
The spark plugs are faulty - cracks in the insulators.
The spark plugs are coked with carbon deposits.
The ignition switch is faulty.
High voltage is not supplied to the spark plugs - the tips of the high voltage wires are not seated tightly in the sockets or are oxidized, the wires are heavily soiled or their insulation is damaged.
The order of connecting the high voltage wires to the contacts of the ignition distributor cover is violated.
Incorrect ignition timing setting.

Contact ignition system

Contacts are stuck and do not open - the gap between the breaker contacts is broken, the textolite pad or bushing of the breaker lever is worn out.
Parts of the ignition distributor are faulty.
The ignition coil is faulty.
The distributor is not securely fastened - the ignition timing is off.
Current does not pass through the breaker contacts: the breaker contacts are oxidized or burnt, excessive big gap between contacts or weakening of the pressure spring.
The capacitor is broken (short circuit).
Break in the primary winding of the ignition coil.
Worn or damaged contact carbon.
Current leakage through cracks or burnout in the ignition distributor cap, through carbon deposits or moisture on inner surface covers, through cracks or burnouts in the ignition distributor rotor.
The resistor in the ignition distributor rotor burned out.
Break or short to ground in the secondary winding of the ignition coil.

Contactless ignition system

A break in the wires between the ignition distributor sensor and the switch.
The proximity sensor is faulty.
A break in the wires connecting the switch to the switch or ignition coil.
The switch is faulty.
Wear, damage to the contact carbon or its hanging in the ignition distributor cap.
Current leakage through cracks, burnouts in the cover or rotor of the ignition distributor sensor, carbon deposits or moisture on the internal
Burnout of the resistor in the rotor of the ignition sensor-distributor.
The ignition coil is damaged.

Microprocessor ignition system

There is a break in the wire connecting the power relay to the ignition module.
The power relay is faulty. The ignition module is faulty.
The controller is faulty - it does not send impulses to the ignition module.
Position sensor faulty crankshaft, its installation is incorrect or there is a break in the wires connecting the sensor to the controller.
The solenoid valve or controller is faulty.
The reason is in the gas distribution system
The timing belt (or chain) is worn out—the phases are out of whack.
Valve clearances are incorrectly adjusted.

Advice:
Modern ones do not lose their properties both at very low temperatures and in hot weather.

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Car chassis diagnostics Halogen car lamps Basic car malfunctions. Windshield wiper, doors. Basic car malfunctions. Lighting and appliances. Basic car malfunctions. Battery, starter.

We usually want the auto repairman to tell us that nothing bad happened to your car, and that the cause of the malfunction in it was some kind of fuse or a disconnected wire. The whole point, of course, is that all car enthusiasts are looking forward to the result, specifically fearing that a serious breakdown will be found in it, which could result in huge expenses. Today we invite our readers to find out what the most expensive breakdowns can be in a car.

This is what we usually want to hear from a mechanic at a car service center after diagnosing a vehicle:

- "WITH your car is fine. We found that the wire from the fuel consumption sensor (or the like) was disconnected. minor malfunction). We've already fixed everything"

- "Your gas tank cap was not fully closed. . The problem is now fixed".

- "A fuse and several light bulbs have burned out in your car.".

But there are many scenarios for the development of events. As a rule, most technicians in technical centers will not inform you over the phone about problems detected in the car. serious breakdowns. In this particular case, you will be asked to come to a car repair center to discuss specific details of the diagnostic results. We invite you to consider with us the worst car breakdowns that a car repair shop may report to you after a diagnostic check of the condition of your car. We also suggest finding out here the main reasons for such expensive breakdowns.

1. The engine failed due to lack of oil

"Your engine has become unusable due to a lack of lubrication of the elements power unit that were damaged. What were once called pistons, cylinder block and crankshaft turned into a sculpture ".

Repair cost: On average, you may need about $2,500 to $3,000 to rebuild an engine. If you buy new motor, then its cost can be up to 50 percent of the total cost. There is also the option of purchasing a used engine, the cost of which can be 5,000 - 10,000 US dollars.

Cause of failure: Lack of oil in the engine occurs for various reasons. As a rule, in 75 percent of cases the drivers themselves are to blame for this. Another reason could be insufficient pressure oil in the system. What happens when there is a lack of engine oil in the engine compartment?

Due to a lack of lubrication in the motor, the parts moving in it overheat, which means they can damage each other. damage. Thus, if the cause of engine failure was a lack of oil, then it will no longer be possible to restore this engine by changing several parts in it. And in this case, you will have to buy a used or refurbished used engine, and possibly purchase a new one.

2. Hydrolocked motor

"You drove by high speed through a deep puddle? Perhaps in this case, your engine “swallowed” water and as a result, water could simply get into certain cylinders, which led to failure of the power unit "

Repair cost: from 3,000 to 10,000 US dollars.

Cause of failure: There are certain places in the car where water should not get, just like it should not get into the iPhone (which can lead to damage to the phone) and into the engine block itself. As a rule, it should contain only droplets of fuel and air inside, nothing more.

The air is instantly compressed in the combustion chamber and as a result the pressure increases. But water itself cannot be compressed, and therefore the water that gets into the combustion chamber as a result of air compression begins to put force on the pistons. As a result of this process, many parts in the engine that are installed on the pistons begin to deteriorate.

3. Engine overheating

"When on dashboard The engine temperature arrow has begun to approach or has already approached the red zone, then you need to reduce the engine speed and stop. If the engine temperature continues to rise, it is necessary to turn it off immediately. ".

Repair cost: from 100 to 10,000 US dollars.

Cause of failure: Remember that the sooner you turn off the engine when the temperature of the power unit rises, the less damage you will cause to engine parts. There are many reasons why the engine temperature may suddenly begin to rise.

For example, a broken thermostat or, say, damage to a hose. The main thing to remember is that if your car overheats, it can cause serious damage to the engine. The most common reasons engine overheating are damage to the head gasket, a crack in the cylinder head or damage to the cylinder block itself.

4. Automatic transmission failure

"You put the transmission in Drive mode, but your car doesn't move. The reason lies in transmission failure ".

Repair cost: from 3000 to 5000 US dollars.

Cause of failure: Even though your car's engine is still running, if the transmission breaks down, you won't be able to. The transmission in a transmission can break down for a number of reasons. In our modern times Many cars are equipped mainly with an automatic transmission, which, as everyone knows, is controlled electronically. The most common causes of malfunctions in the equipment itself are the following factors, namely, problems arose with software in the on-board computer, or the solenoids have broken down. This is not considered a serious breakdown and therefore, to eliminate such a malfunction (breakdown) you will need relatively little money.

It will be much more serious when in the gearbox due to their high wear or due to the age of the car, and possibly due to your style of driving the car.

5. Crack in the head gasket or crack in the engine block

"You mistakenly believed that exhaust pipe water gradually oozes out. This is not condensation at all. It's actually antifreeze leaking out. ".

Repair cost: from 1000 to 4000 US dollars.

Cause of failure: In most cases, when antifreeze leaks from somewhere, you simply cannot see it. Especially if it comes from the exhaust system. The engine cooling system is a closed system, which means that the coolant circulates through special engine cooling channels, and then to the radiator, to the cabin heater and back through a closed system. Antifreeze should never leave this closed fluid circuit.

If antifreeze somehow gets into exhaust system, this means that the coolant in the system somehow inexplicably gets into the oil and into the combustion chamber. As a rule, this can happen when the engine head gasket is damaged or when there is a crack in the same block, and even worse, when the cylinder block itself bursts.

Often this defect or breakdown appears after the power unit itself overheats.

6. Timing belt broke

"Look directly at the schedule regulations technical work car maintenance. You will see the following in it, namely, it turns out that 20,000 thousand km ago you should have replaced the timing belt on the car".

Repair cost: from 1500 to 3500 US dollars.

Reasons for failure: . One type of motor is designed in such a way that when the timing belt breaks, the valves in the engine do not meet the pistons. The second type of motor uses a mechanism in which, when the timing belt breaks, parts inside the power unit are damaged.

In fact, engines in which the engine valves meet the pistons when the timing belt breaks are more modern than engines where nothing is ever damaged when the timing belt breaks. The thing is that on these types the valve stroke is much greater than on modern engines(the valve can open much more), this allows the engine, as they say, to breathe more, which gives it more power and requires less fuel consumption.

Everything works just fine when the valves go up and the pistons themselves go down.

In this mode, engine parts cannot harm each other. The gas distribution mechanism, which is equipped with timing belt. If the belt breaks or slips by one tooth (in the event of damage to one tooth of the belt), then the piston and valve begin to work out of sync, and this leads to failure of the specified parts. This is why it is so important to always change the timing belt on time, after a certain mileage interval, as recommended by the manufacturer.

Motors in which the valves do not meet the pistons when the timing belt breaks are designed in such a way that if this belt is damaged, the valves cannot come into contact with the pistons. In the event of a timing belt break, you will have to transport the car on a tow truck and deliver it to a car service center this way. In this case, repairs will cost you less. But similar engines and those described by us consume much more fuel and are less powerful.

7. Engine oil in the brake system reservoir

"Your car broke down because you mistakenly poured the wrong oil into the brake system. ".

Repair cost: from 800 to 2200 US dollars.

Cause of failure: Surprisingly, this is concrete data. According to statistics, tens of thousands of breakdowns are recorded every day. brake system precisely because drivers mistakenly fill the brake system reservoir (intended for the gearbox).

The point here is this. Only special brake fluid and no other fluid is poured into this brake system. As soon as petroleum-based oil enters the reservoir intended for brake fluid, it quickly spreads further into the entire brake system. And the worst thing here is that in this case the entire brake system in the car practically needs to be replaced. Petroleum-based oil significantly damages everything rubber seals brake system and it stops working.

8. The car’s computer (the “brains”) burned out

"You have connected the cable or any other wires incorrectly ".

Repair cost: from 1500 to 100,000 US dollars.

Cause of failure: Many cars have protection if you suddenly, when connecting some wires or cables, reverse their polarity. However, not all car models are equipped with such protective circuits. If it so happens that you, out of ignorance or mistakenly, confused the plus with the minus and connected some wires incorrectly, then the most common breakdown in this case is failure of the “brains” itself. Also with on-board computer Wiring harnesses are also damaged. It often happens that as a result of a short circuit in the wiring, not only the “brains” themselves burn out, but the entire car.

9. Clutch wear

"Are you haunted by a strange burning smell while driving? Most likely the reason lies in the clutch ".

Repair cost: from 1000 to 2500 US dollars.

Cause of failure: The operation of the clutch inside the gearbox is based on friction. It is very difficult to explain the principle of the clutch itself in our short text. But alas. Over time or as a result of improper operation of the vehicle, the clutch disc in the gearbox becomes unusable. The clutch disc itself has a sandpaper-like surface. During long-term use, this surface gradually becomes smooth. As a result of this, it is necessary to change the clutch disc, since without it the car simply will not move. As a rule, it is noticed that if the driver drives a lot and especially often sits idle on the roads in traffic jams, then, if possible, he simply tries not to release the clutch pedal itself and therefore, as a result of this severe wear, the clutch disc quickly becomes unusable and requires replacement.

10. The car fell from a lift in a car repair shop.

"Your car fell from a lift in a car service during diagnostics. ".

Repair cost: 0 dollars (if the liability of the technical center is insured or you purchased i.e. bought a Casco policy).

If you have not done this, then your car may not be subject to any restoration.

Cause: Human factor. Of course, this or the like happens extremely rarely, but nevertheless, it happens. Last year, 39 such cases were officially registered in Moscow alone. This is the worst thing that can happen to a car at a car service center. Fortunately for us, today all specialized technical centers for car repairs have good insurance against accidents, but... It is to our deep regret that there are not very many such car repair centers in our country today. Therefore, we advise each of you to independently insure your car against various damages and purchase a CASCO policy.

The summer heat is a wonderful reason for a car enthusiast to go somewhere to relax and “walk” his iron friend. But all the joy of travel can be overshadowed by problems and malfunctions in the car, and your so good vacation can turn into a nightmare. Futile attempts to fix the problem can make the situation even worse. But this can be easily avoided by undergoing maintenance in advance and checking all the components and assemblies of your four-wheeled friend. New car Most likely it won’t give you such a surprise, but a car that came off the assembly line in the last millennium may unpleasantly surprise you on the road. Therefore, here are some tips on preparing for the trip and eliminating typical faults you won't be disturbed.

Basic car malfunctions on the road

Your first step before long journey when driving a car, a visit to a service station should definitely be included, especially if your route will pass along bad roads. At the station, first of all, ask to pay attention to the condition chassis system(necessarily all components), clutch, fuel system. It also wouldn't hurt to do computer diagnostics car electricians and check the drive belts. In any case, all faults must be corrected. Otherwise, you need to always have a standard set of auto parts on hand. The kit of a responsible and practical motorist must include an additional set of filters, a jack, and a spray bottle. Moreover, inspect spare wheel, check its integrity. Spare keys, electrical tape, various wires, a harness and a tow rope should all be available. And, of course, each driver decides for himself how many other items and devices he will need for a comfortable trip. A canister of water, a flashlight and a bedding will be useful.

Problem #1: The car won't start

Used cars often “please” their owners with such a malfunction. However, do not rush to harass your car with continuous attempts to start it by jerking the key in the ignition. If 3-4 attempts are unsuccessful, most likely you will find the reason under the hood.

• There may be a malfunction in the ignition system. Gasoline does not ignite due to the lack of a spark. Your actions in this case are as follows: press the high-voltage wire removed from the spark plug to the engine. At the same time, ask a friend to turn the ignition key;
• There is a spark - everything is fine. If not, then you need to check the contacts on all parts: ignition coil, distributor, switch, ignition sensor. Attempts were unsuccessful - direct road to the service station;
• A heavily clogged main fuel filter may also be the cause. This is easy to check by starting the fuel pump. There may be no fuel getting to the cylinder block. The filter needs to be cleaned;
• Then it is possible that the problem is caused malfunction fuel pump. A simple bleeding procedure, which is done manually on carburetor cars, will help you start the engine. On injection machines, the problem may be in the contacts. Try to correct them.

Fault #2: Engine boiled

• Summer heat is often to blame here, which leads to malfunctions of the cooling system. The signal to stop should be the temperature sensor arrow approaching the red mark. Perhaps the fan switch sensor has failed, the thermostat has become stuck, or there is a leak in the system;
• Checking the sensor contacts is carried out according to a well-established scheme. So: warm up the engine while watching the fan. If it does not turn on, you will have to replace the sensor. Alternatively, you can connect the fan directly from the battery;
• The thermostat is checked by touching the lower hose with your hand. Warmth should emanate from it. Otherwise, it will help special liquid, sold in any auto store (if you don’t have it, you can use citric acid). The included radio will help you get to the repair site. full power stove. Heat will go into the cabin and the engine will warm up;
• As a result of a coolant leak, the seal of the cooling system is usually compromised. Be sure to inspect the system and seal the leak. If coolant is lost, water can be added.

Fault No. 3: The wheel is curled

The reason is this emergency situation usually one: it has failed, the ball joint has collapsed. It would be better to entrust this problem to the service station workers, but you can try it yourself. You need to unscrew the nut from the hinge pin and, jacking up the car, pull the lower suspension arm down. Then hit the suspension arm in the area of ​​the hinge pin with a hammer or stone. You need to try to hit it so that the hinge pin pops out of the suspension arm. Then unscrew the bolts holding the ball joint in place and remove the old ball joint. You need to install the ball joint in the reverse order.

Fault No. 4: The muffler has fallen off

Here is one piece of advice: temporarily secure the muffler with a waist belt or cable. And immediately to the service station, but at low speed.

Fault No. 5: The pedal has failed

• This can be the gas, clutch and brake pedal. In the first case, the breakdown is often caused by a rupture of the cable near the shaft throttle valve. To get to the service station, you can temporarily connect the shaft and the broken end of the cable with a wire;
• If the clutch pedal fails, we do this: turn off the engine and, putting the gearshift lever in 1st gear, turn the ignition key. We press the gas pedal. Let's get going. Having accelerated to 30 km/h, turn on 2nd gear, then 3rd. The speed should be low. And don't forget about the emergency lights;
• Only a highly qualified specialist can troubleshoot brake problems. You need a tug and a service station.

An unfortunate story can happen to each of us: a car breaks down. Let's look at the types of breakdowns and how to fix them.

If the engine does not rotate when you try to start, there are several reasons for this. Possible options: The battery is damaged or discharged, its contacts are loose or oxidized. There may also be a place mechanical reasons: the clutch is not depressed, which leads to loss of the chain in the starter control, the starter gear is jammed by the flywheel or is completely broken. The reason may lie in the starter or a malfunction of the ignition switch.

The next unpleasant moment: the engine does not start, but rotation occurs. The most common reason is the lack of gasoline. The reason may be a faulty battery. Check its charging or terminals. If this does not fix the problem, check the functionality of the carburetor, fuel pump and pressure regulator. Damage may be found in the ignition switch. Also, the fuel may not reach the fuel rail of the injectors.

Another problem waiting to happen is difficulty starting a cold engine. As in previous cases, you should first check the serviceability of the battery, its charging, and connections. Inspect the machine components for defects. The distributor cap may be damaged or the starting injector may be faulty, causing a leak. Incorrect operation of the fuel injection system may be another cause of the malfunction.

The opposite of the previous one is the problem when starting a hot engine. The reasons may be similar. Or there is no fuel access. Due to a clogged air filter. Or the battery contacts have oxidized.

Hearing noise when a machine is running is a very unpleasant thing. The reason for this may be failure of the starter gears or flywheel or insufficient tightening of the starter bolts.

Probably, almost every car owner has encountered a situation where the car “chokes”, i.e. The engine starts to run, but immediately stops. This problem can be resolved by checking all connections and vacuum hoses. Since the cause of this malfunction may be a small amount of incoming fuel or disadvantages in the operation of the coil, generator or distributor. Don't forget to check the air circulation.

One more thing. Oil leakage may occur. Check the quality before valve covers, seals, etc.

For proper operation The car should often check the condition of the vacuum hoses and air filter. Monitor the fit of the valve and the suitability of other parts (camshaft drive belt, camshaft cams, etc.), as they can wear out, since any malfunction in the parts in question will inevitably lead to a vacuum leak and uneven rotation idle move.

Misfires can occur both at idle and under load. There are many reasons, but don’t get lost, everything can be solved. Adjust the idle speed and debug the fuel system. Check for defects in wires and spark plugs. There may also be a vacuum leak. Alternatively: insufficient pressure.

At faulty spark plugs ignition or a clogged fuel filter causes a drop in speed when accelerating. If this is not the reason, then the injection system and carburetor should be adjusted. If this does not help, clean the fuel filter. Don't neglect the ignition system. Check all its components, and also check for vacuum blockages.

If the engine is unstable, then most likely there is a defect in the fuel pump or loss of contact in the injector connector. The electronic control module could also be defective or the contact in the injector connector may be lost.

If the engine stops altogether, try to identify the defects. Possible options for the presence of such: EGR system, distributor, spark plugs, high voltage wires, fuel system. Another reason is incorrect adjustment of valve clearances or idle speed adjustment performed incorrectly.

The engine loses its power. The reasons are different. Incorrect adjustment of spark plugs, fuel system, fluid level automatic transmission. Defects in spark plugs, ignition coil, brakes. Incorrect ignition timing adjustment. Worn rotor and/or distributor cap. If this is not the cause of this problem, then check the fuel filter - it may be clogged. A failure may also occur in the EGR system or there may be low pressure.

We continue our movement through the list of troubles. While operating the vehicle, detonation knocks from the engine appeared during acceleration. The causes of this problem are: incorrect installation and adjustment of components (ignition timing and fuel system), low quality fuel. Worn or deformed distributor components. EGR system defective or vacuum leak. Soot (coal deposits) in the combustion chamber.

The engine may slam into the muffler. The reasons are the same as in previous problems. Various defects and incorrect adjustment of systems.

When the “low oil pressure” indicator lights up, check the oil level and viscosity. Possible reasons may occur: low idle speed, wear of bearings and/or oil pump, oil sensor damage.

If the battery does not charge, the reasons may be the following: defect drive belt generator, low level electrolyte or battery contacts are oxidized. Also, the generator may have a small charging current or damage to the electrical circuit. Internal battery damage or short circuit in the wiring are also causes.

FUEL SYSTEM.

If fuel consumption exceeds the limit, then it is most likely clogged air filter. Also possible incorrect work EGR systems or ignition control. Mismatched tire size or low tire pressure can also be a cause. Check the suitability of the fuel system components.

Fuel leaks and odor may be caused by leaking return pipes or overfilling fuel tank. It is also worth checking the fuel vapor filter, as it may be clogged.

The engine cannot be warmed up. The cause will be defects in the thermostat and/or temperature sensor.

CLUTCH.

Clutch slipping. Check the clutch disc. Since it may become worn out or overheated, it may also be poorly seated or warped. Weak spring diaphragms or disc slippage due to a crankshaft leak can give this result.

Unclear gear shifting. This problem is caused by defects in the gearbox and clutch disc or pressure plate. Besides, incorrect assembly fork/release bearing assembly. Loosening of the clutch basket to the flywheel.

Low clutch engagement effort. Deformation/damage to clutch cable or release bearing and forks.

Vibrations when engaging the clutch. Wear of disc hub splines or engine or gearbox support. Warped pressure plate or flywheel. Burning or tarring of the flywheel or pressure plate, and as a result, their oiling. These are the main factors causing this problem.

TRANSMISSION.

Noise in the clutch area can be caused either by a bearing failure or due to incorrect installation fork shaft.

Applying a lot of force on the clutch pedal. This happens quite often. To fix the problem in question, check the cable and levers, as they may be kinked. The pressure plate should also be inspected, as it may contain faults. And, finally, the main and slave cylinders do not correspond to the make of the car.

If the clutch pedal does not return to initial position, then the clutch cable is faulty or there is damage in the fork or release bearing.

Rattling in the gearbox is usually caused by wear of the release bearing fork, as well as defective clutch disc damper springs or low speed engine idling.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION

Impact noises are heard at low speeds. This occurs due to wear on the CV joints in the drive axles or the differential side gear shaft.

Vibration occurs due to damaged wheel bearings or drive axles. Also due to out-of-round tires and unbalanced wheels. Another factor: wear of the CV joints.

Worn or damaged CV joints (external) lead to a clicking sound when cornering.

The clanging sound that occurs when accelerating and decelerating is due to the fact that the engine or gearbox mount has become unusable. Or parts such as the drive gear shaft are worn out final drive or differential side gear shaft, CV joints.

An unpleasant surprise may be when the gears switch off. The cause was most likely the following factors: wear or improper adjustment of the rods, loss of fastening of the gearbox to the engine, deformation of the gear shafts, loss or deterioration of the bearing retainer input shaft, wear on the shift fork or contamination between the clutch cover and the flywheel housing.

If there is noise in all gears, it means that the bearings or primary and/or bearings are worn out or damaged. output shaft, insufficient lubrication.

The car pulls to the side when braking. Most likely in the tires wrong pressure or different types tires on one axle. High blood pressure brake pipes and hoses and malfunction brake drum or shoe will lead to the same result. It could also be a missing part of the suspension or brake shoe, or wear on the linings on one side.

Oil leakage most often occurs due to excess oil in the box. And also due to damage to the input shaft oil seal or failure of the input shaft bearing retainer or input shaft oil seal.

If noise occurs when braking, it means the pads are worn out, you should immediately replace them with new ones.

Braking delay occurs due to incorrectly adjusted brake light switch or cable parking brake. Also due to the fact that the piston of the master cylinder does not return completely. Incorrect connection of brake pipes and hoses, for example due to kinks.

Pulsation of force on the brake pedal occurs due to uneven wear pads or due to a defect brake discs, as well as due to increased beating of the drum or disk.

Jamming and insufficient brake action is due to a malfunction of the redistribution system braking forces and malfunction of the brake booster, bent pedal drive mechanism.

Increased braking force. The malfunction is due to several factors.

Variable pressure on the brake pedal is due to the presence of air in the system. As well as a defect in the master brake cylinder and low pressure on the brake pedal. In addition, loss of tightening of bolts and fastenings of the master cylinder and low fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir due to leaks through the brake cylinders, damage to the brake pipes will lead to the same effect.

SUSPENSION AND STEERING.

First you need to make sure of a few things. Check for damage to the suspension and steering mechanism, the balance of the wheels and the suitability of the bearings. Next, make sure that the steering shaft driveshafts are mounted correctly and that the tires are usable, not worn, and have normal pressure.

Wheel vibration. This can be caused by unbalanced wheels or their out-of-roundness. As well as wear of bearings and tie rod ends, ball joints. Defective tires and increased wheel runout.
The car is pulled to the side due to different tires on one axis, broken or damaged springs, incorrect adjustment wheels, front brake jamming.

Increased tire wear occurs primarily due to improper wheel alignment, broken or sagging springs. And also due to unbalanced wheels or damage to the shock absorber. A couple more factors causing this malfunction: constant overload of the car, increased noise from the wheels, and, finally, defective tires and shock absorbers.

Steering does not return to the position of rectilinear movement - one of the most unpleasant situations, from possible vehicle malfunctions. Causes may include: bent ball joints and steering column.
Deterioration of bushings jet thrust or tie rod ends, loosening of the stabilizer, tightening wheel nuts and loosening of the suspension can also be aggressors of the excitability of this problem.

If steering wheel trembles when braking, which means that the wheel bearings have worn out, the springs are broken or sagged, or the wheel is leaking brake cylinders. Warping of the brake drum or disc is also considered as an option.

If, while using your car, you observe excessive roll when cornering when braking, it means that the stabilizer or shock absorber mounts are damaged, the springs have become unusable or have sagged. Or there are constant, frequent overloads of the car.

If you observe spotty wear on your tires, you should have the wheel balanced. Check the disc for damage, carefully inspect the tires for possible defect. And also remove increased clearances in the steering. If necessary, replace bearings and ends lateral thrust. If the drive gear or steering rack breaks, it should be corrected. Check for suitability intermediate shaft, since one of the reasons is its wear.

Clicking sounds in the rack and pinion pair occur due to lack of lubrication and loss of relative adjustment.