Remove the starter housing. Below it is a flywheel with a cooling impeller, pulled to the crankshaft by a nut. To set it in rotation, you can:

• Wrap a rope around the flywheel and use it in the same way as a recoil starter cable. Please note that if it gets caught on the fan blades, when the engine starts, this rope will turn into a whip whipping in all directions, so be careful. Stand so that the rope cannot hit your hands or head.
• Low-power engines can also be started manually: with the ignition off, turn the crankshaft several times, rotating the pulley by hand in the desired direction. In this case, the gas tap must be open and the starter flap must be closed. After this, turning on the ignition, move the crankshaft to compression TDC (you will feel an increase in force on the flywheel), and then with a sharp jerk turn the pulley so that the spark energy is enough to ignite the mixture.
• A powerful cordless drill and a head with an extension from the tool kit are a good quick replacement for an electric starter. Clamp the extension cord in the chuck and place the head on it suitable size and unscrew the crankshaft by the flywheel mounting nut. True, in this way it will only be possible to start a low-power generator - for a large-volume engine, the torque of the drill is not enough to turn it on the compression stroke.

When should you contact the workshop?

A number of faults, alas, are quite difficult to fix with your own hands, without sufficient qualifications: for example, a faulty inverter converter or voltage regulator can be repaired only with a good understanding of the operating principle and circuitry of such devices. Not every owner of a gas generator will undertake to overhaul the engine, although this is not as difficult as it might seem.

Read also: Making a gas generator with your own hands

In this case, you should contact a specialized repair shop. You can find out the coordinates of workshops in your city on the Internet or in stores selling gas-powered tools.

IN major cities similar there are many workshops, here is just a small part of them:

The video shows the repair of a Chinese-made gas generator

Conclusion

Most of the problems that a generator owner will encounter can be corrected on site by himself. But you need to soberly assess your abilities– sometimes saving on going to a workshop leads to unnecessary costs later.

In order not to waste time on old and non-working equipment, you can buy new ones at inexpensive prices with discounts.

Name

Designed

Full power 0.72 kVA

Active power 0.65 kW

Working volume 63 cm3

Gasoline generator, aka gasoline power plant one of the most complex small-scale mechanization tools. It consists of two components: the engine and the generator part (alternator). The engine rotates the armature, which, together with the rotor, produces voltage. But over time, malfunctions of one kind or another occur with both components.

The main malfunctions of a gas generator and their causes.

Gasoline generator engine malfunctions

The gas generator won't start Or it starts but stalls. It's pretty common problem. Several factors influence this: spark, fuel supply, gas distribution mechanism, major mechanical damage (such as a hole in the crankcase or a broken connecting rod). Sparks may not be due to a burnt coil, cap or spark plug. It is also possible that the sensor relay or oil sensor may fail (cuts off the spark when the oil level is low), and faulty wiring components are also possible. Fuel supply the fuel system (carburetor, tap, filter, gas tank) is broken, clogged, system elements (carburetor, tap, fuel pump) are faulty. Long downtime of equipment is detrimental to the fuel system. timing is responsible for gas distribution; large gaps and carbon deposits on the valves prevent the engine from working efficiently and sometimes even starting.

The engine is smoking. The main reason is the depletion of the piston group; oil from the crankcase enters the combustion chamber (the piston and cylinder are worn out). Too much oil also produces smoke.

The engine is knocking. Production of crankshaft, connecting rod, bearings.

Engine wedge. Also due to oil starvation heavy production, carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.

Gasoline in the crankcase. Gasoline and oil are leaking from the crankcase. The carburetor is faulty, most likely the needle does not hold. Causes include wear or dirt in the carburetor.

Malfunctions of the electrical part of the gas generator

The gas generator does not produce current. The engine starts normally, but there is no current. The reasons are trivial, the AVR burned out (the generator does not excite), faulty diodes, problems with electrical wiring, problems in the stator or rotor, and individual modules fail (on some generators). On inverter generators, the main fault is the inverter board.

The gas generator produces current, but it is too strong or weak The connected devices do not work or are burning. There are two reasons: the engine does not operate at 3000 rpm (3000 rpm ~ 50 hertz ~ 220 volts), electronic components are faulty (automatic transfer switch, inverter board, capacitors, diodes)

When connecting devices, the engine stalls or does not turn on- again a problem with the engine. Something is clogged or not adjusted.

Troubleshooting basic gas generator problems on your own.

The basic principle of repairing any equipment is eliminating faults by elimination. How we do it. The generator comes to us and we begin to check:

• First thing inspect appearance on the subject mechanical damage and oil leaks, as well as the presence of rust in the tank. Next, check the presence of oil and crank the engine with the starter (check the compression resistance and extraneous noise). Let's try to start it.
• If not, look for a spark. We immediately take a new spark plug (leaning the spark plug against ground and cranking the engine), if there is no spark or it is weak, we try to disconnect the wires from the oil sensor relay and replace the spark plug cap. If it doesn't help, look at the ignition switch or power button. If everything is fine there, then the ignition coil is faulty.
• If there is a spark, let's try to launch it. If it starts and stalls or runs with the choke closed, the carburetor is definitely clogged. Many people say that they cleaned it themselves, but the symptoms are the same. This is obvious, you need to clean the carburetor by disassembling it down to the bolt, by special means. And that’s half the battle, then you need to install it and correctly adjust the rods and springs of the damper and speed controller. If it does not start at all, add a little gasoline to the combustion chamber, through the spark plug hole or an open carburetor choke.
• Rust in the tank- very unpleasant problem, can be cleaned fuel system and everything will work. But, soon, after some time, this rust will get into the carburetor (into the jets, under the needle) and the symptoms will repeat. If there is rust in the tank, it is almost impossible to remove it. You can pour special products (such as solvent) into the tank overnight or install fuel filter, but the only salvation is to replace the tank.

Motorists rarely look into the air filter and often find out that oil particles have entered only during planned or emergency replacement this element. However, if in air filter oil is detected, the owner needs to find the cause of the appearance and fix the problem.

Why does oil get into the air filter?

The main reasons for liquid entering the element:

• When fuel burns in the engine, it produces gases that enter the crankcase. At proper operation car engine gases exit through the cylinders and enter the external environment through the exhaust system. However, if the engine is faulty or wear is 50-60%, gases enter the air filter and carry with them oil particles that settle on it.
• If it is necessary to replace the piston rings, oil enters the engine crankcase, into the ventilation duct and onto the air filter.
• If the hose used to supply oil is clogged, it is sent to the air filter along with gases from the crankcase.
• It may also become clogged pipe branch. IN in this case the oil travels with the gases from the crankcase.
• A clogged filter can cause oil to get into it. Insufficient air enters the vehicle system, causing engine problems.
• High pressure in the engine and an exhaust system clogged with debris lead to gases accumulating in the crankcase and engine, which travel through all the pipes, including the air filter and bringing oil there.
• The reason is often worn out seals. In this case, engine oil consumption increases.

How to remove oil

The main methods used to fix the problem:

More often, oil enters the filter along with the gases that pass through it. To solve this problem, you will need to remove the hose from the filter, rinse it from impurities and debris that have clogged the element, and then install the hose back.
If this doesn't help, you'll have to check throttle valve. Soot and debris deposits often interfere with the correct operation of the spare part, which causes the engine to high pressure. More often the problem is solved by repairing the damper or replacing it.

Slag can accumulate in the vehicle's oil slinger; To fix the problem, you will need to clean this element and install an additional oil deflector.

If the air filter is damaged or clogged, it may itself be the cause of oil. In this case, the filter can be replaced or cleaned.

If the problem has not been solved, then the cause will have to be looked for in the engine. This means that the car will require more serious repairs: replacement oil scraper rings or other types of manipulation.

Oil in the air filter pipes often appears due to poor compression in the car’s cylinders. You can check how the cylinders work by warming up the engine to operating temperature. If the values ​​are not the same, then the engine requires repair. This problem occurs especially often in older cars.

The owner will also need to check the valve clearances. If they are too large, oil will begin to appear in the air filter. The same applies to replacing oil seals. In a garage environment, it is difficult to determine the cause of a vehicle malfunction. Most owners turn to a car service center, where diagnostics are carried out by technicians using special equipment.

If your car's engine is worn out, you can delay major repairs by doing the following:

• The hose conducting gases through the crankcase must be removed.
• A plug is installed on the fitting.
• The crankcase is ventilated through an extended length hose, which is passed through the bottom of the engine.
• Replace engine lubricant.

But these manipulations will delay the intervention of repairmen by a maximum of 500 km. After this, the motor will need to be repaired or a new unit installed.

What is the problem?

The presence of oil on the air filter itself will not cause harm, but it can serve as an alarming symptom that the need is approaching. overhaul engine, and this procedure is labor-intensive and expensive. The appearance of a sign requires prompt contact to a car service for in-depth diagnostics of the car.

Key Features

When checking engine compression, you must remember that a discrepancy of one or two units is acceptable. If the compression in the cylinders is very different from each other, then this indicates that the valves are burnt out or the rings are not pressed tightly, and it’s time to change them.

It is worth paying attention to what color the car is traffic fumes. If the piston group is heavily worn, the smoke will take on a bluish tint.

If, after checking the compression in the cylinders, no serious deviations from the norm could be detected, then there is no cause for concern, and the oil most likely comes through the crankcase due to a hose clogged with debris. The hoses are easy to clean or replace.

See what you can do if oil gets into the air filter

Bottom line

If oil is found in the air filter, you should carefully check the entire system. Even if the car is new, this does not guarantee that the valves or rings are in good condition. The problem in the initial stage can be solved with minimum costs finances and effort, but a neglected version will be very expensive to repair.

The figures below show the control panel and the main parts of a four-stroke gasoline generator that you have to deal with during its operation and maintenance.

Gas generator device: 1 - fuel level sensor, 2 - fuel tank, 3 - fuse, 4 - 12V power button, 5 - 12V socket, 6 - voltmeter, 7 - 220V socket, 8 - control light, 9 - ground terminal, 10 - engine switch, 11 - cover/dipstick for filling and oil control, 12 - oil drain plug.

Gasoline generator structure: 13 - frame, 14 - cover fuel tank, 15 - recoil starter handle, 16 - fuel valve, 17 - air filter, 18 - muffler protective screen.

The first 20 hours (the figure may be different) of the gas generator’s operation is the time during which the parts get used to each other. Therefore, during this period, you cannot connect a load whose power exceeds 50% of the rated power of the unit.

If you plan to always run the gas generator at an altitude of more than 1500 meters above sea level, you should check with your dealer before purchasing whether it is possible to properly upgrade the carburetor. In high mountain areas fuel-air mixture a standard carburetor will be very rich. Performance will decrease and fuel consumption will increase. To avoid this, install a smaller diameter main fuel jet in the carburetor and adjust the engine accordingly. Even with a modified carburetor, engine power will decrease approximately 3.5% for every 300 m of elevation gain. The effect of altitude on engine power will be greater if the carburetor is not modified. Running the engine at altitudes lower than those specified for the modified carburetor may result in reduced power, overheating, and severe engine damage.

Checking the oil level. Checking the oil level in the engine crankcase is carried out before each start, since high-quality lubricant engine is an extremely important condition correct operation gas generator.

Checking the oil level in the crankcase is carried out at engine not running. The generator is installed on a flat horizontal surface. If the generator was running before, wait about 5 minutes after stopping.

The oil level is checked using a dipstick inserted into the oil filler neck. Before removing it, you need to clean the area around it to prevent contamination from entering the crankcase. The dipstick is removed and wiped with a clean cloth. It is installed (without screwing) into the oil filler neck until it stops and removed again. The oil mark should be located between the mark on the dipstick and its end. The figure below shows the process of measuring the oil level.

If there is not enough oil in the crankcase, you need to add it to the lower edge of the neck hole and install the dipstick in place, screwing it tightly.

Refueling. Fueling must be done in a well-ventilated area. When working, smoking and using open flames are prohibited. You need to work carefully, avoiding spills. Inhalation of vapors and skin contact with fuel should be avoided whenever possible.

Gasoline generators usually use A92 gasoline (not lower). But in any case, you need to use the brand of gasoline that is indicated in the operating instructions for the generator. Do not use leaded or lightly leaded gasoline.

The fuel consumption of a gas generator depends on its power and can range from values ​​less than 1 l/hour (with a power of 2 kW or less) to 2 (with a power of 5 kW) or more l/hour.

If the engine is four-stroke, pure gasoline is used for refueling without mixing it with oil. Two-stroke engines use a mixture of gasoline and motor oil as fuel (for two-stroke engines) in the ratio specified in the instructions.

As for the adjustment of the gas generator carburetor and the engine speed controller, they are usually carried out at the manufacturer. The voltage and frequency at the generator output depend on the engine rotation speed. Tampering with carburetor settings will usually void the warranty.

If gasoline is already poured into the tank, you need to check its level - using the fuel level indicator or visually. Maximum level should be located no higher than the shoulder of the fuel filter (see figure below).

If there is no fuel in the tank at all or there is not enough fuel, you need to add gasoline to the shoulder of the fuel filter - approximately 20-25 mm below the top edge filler neck. To avoid fuel leakage due to thermal expansion, do not fill the tank to the top of the neck. After finishing refueling, you need to replace the fuel tank cap and screw it tightly.

You should not make large (for a year) reserves of gasoline; six months after production, tarring reactions appear in gasoline. After this period, the use of gasoline risks excess carbon deposits and smoke.

The rate of chemical changes during gasoline storage depends on temperature, contact of non-ferrous metals with gasoline, degree of filling of the container, amount of transfusion, etc. Storage temperature has the greatest accelerating effect. An increase in the temperature of gasoline during storage is accompanied by accelerated oxidation and tar formation. When the storage temperature increases by 10°, the rate of resin formation increases by 2.4-2.8 times. All the most commonly used metals, when in contact with gasoline, accelerate its oxidation and the formation of tarry substances. On the other hand, the walls of metal canisters are impermeable to oxygen, unlike the walls plastic canisters. Copper and its alloys have the greatest accelerating effect. Repeated transfers of gasoline from container to container contribute to a decrease in the quality of gasoline. When transfused, gasoline is saturated with atmospheric oxygen, the intensity of oxidative processes in it increases, and tar formation accelerates. The process of oxidation and tarring is significantly accelerated in the presence of resinous substances previously deposited in the container or residues of tarred gasoline from previous storage. When gasoline turns reddish, this is a sure sign that the tar content exceeds the permissible limit. If the container is not tightly closed, low-boiling components evaporate. The evaporation of light hydrocarbons leads to an increase in the density of gasoline and a deterioration in their starting qualities. In gasolines obtained from direct distillation and thermal cracking products, low-boiling fractions have the highest anti-knock properties, so when they are lost octane numbers of such gasolines are slightly reduced.

Engine starting. The gas generator can be started using a manual or electric starter. There are generator models equipped with both types of starting.

Starting the generator with a manual starter is carried out as follows.

• Disconnect electricity consumers from the electric generator, set the voltage switch (fuse) to the “off” position.

• The fuel valve opens.

• The choke handle is set to the "closed" position. This action is performed on a cold engine and is not performed if the engine has previously been running and remains warm.

• The ignition is turned on (the engine switch is turned to the “on” position).

• The starter handle is pulled out until resistance appears, released to the lower position and jerked sharply, or immediately jerked sharply without releasing to the lower position. In this case, the cord is not pulled out completely and is not released sharply from top position to avoid damage to the starter.

• After warming up (1-3 minutes) with the engine running, air damper is set to the "open" position. It's better to do it gradually as it warms up.

Starting with an electric starter can vary greatly depending on the degree of automation of the process. In the very simple version, when starting with an electric starter, the same actions are first performed as with a manual start (the tap opens, the air damper closes on a cold engine, the ignition is turned on).

The engine switch is set to the "electric start" position. After starting the engine, you must return the switch to its previous position. On some models of gas generators this happens automatically.

If the engine does not start immediately, the time the switch is in the “electric start” position should not exceed 5 seconds. Restart should be done no earlier than after 10 seconds. If three attempts to start the engine fail, you should look for a malfunction due to which the engine does not start. The battery may need to be charged.

After starting the engine, open the choke.

It is prohibited to operate the generator without connecting the load for more than 3-30 minutes (the figure is very different for different gas generators). The minimum load on a gasoline generator is about 10-20% of the rated power of the generator. The fact is that if you do not load the gas generator, the fuel may not burn completely. In 70% of such cases, plaque is deposited in the combustion chamber and on the spark plugs. Therefore, it is recommended to periodically carry out preventive maintenance - run the unit for an hour, connecting to it consumers with a total energy consumption equal to the rated power of the generator. This helps get rid of deposits and associated soot, as well as maintain engine life.

Load switching procedure. A certain order must be followed. Consumers with the highest inrush currents need to be connected first. Then connect the devices in descending order of the last. Finally, energy consumers are connected with a coefficient starting current equal to 1, for example, electric heaters.

Stopping the engine. The operation is performed in the following sequence.

• Electrical consumers are turned off.
• The voltage switch (fuse) is turned off.
• If the generator was operating under heavy load, let the generator run for several minutes (1-3 minutes) without load.
• The ignition is turned off.
• The fuel valve closes.

At emergency stop generator, you must immediately turn off the ignition.

Maintenance

Typical types of maintenance work and their approximate frequency are presented in the table below.

Approximate maintenance schedule for gasoline generators*

* - The table contains approximate data; the exact data should be found in the operating manual for a specific gas generator. For example, an oil change is often required after 6 months or 100 hours, rather than 50.
** - the first oil change is performed after 20-25 hours. Sometimes the instructions require the first oil change after 8 hours, then the second change after 25 hours.

In addition to the above work, it is necessary to perform others related to engine disassembly, but they are performed in service centers.

The above graph applies only to normal operating conditions of the gas generator. If the engine is operated in extreme conditions(long increased loads, high temperatures, high humidity and dust), the time between maintenance must be reduced.

For gas generators it is necessary to use only high quality oils For gasoline engines. If we are talking about four-stroke engine, then as universal oil for operation at any temperature, you can (if the generator is started very rarely) use SAE 10W30. It should be borne in mind that at temperatures above 4°C, multi-temperature oils are consumed to a greater extent than conventional ones and can cause accelerated engine wear. When using them, it is necessary to check the oil level more often than usual.

The optimal choice of oils for different temperatures can be made using the following information. The most recommended oils depending on operating temperature:

• above 4 °C - SAE 30;
• from -18 °C to +4 °C - SAE 10W-30, 5W-30;
• below 4 °C - synthetic SAE oils 5W-20, 5W-30.

When using SAE 30 oil at temperatures below 4°C, starting may be difficult due to lack of lubrication and use of this oil at low temperatures, can lead to premature wear engine.

Avoid long-term contact of the skin of your hands with oil ( machine oil carcinogenic). Always wash your hands thoroughly with soap.

The oil must be changed when the engine is warm (1-3 minutes), this ensures quick and complete drainage of the waste. To replace, you need to unscrew the plug with the oil level indicator (dipstick) (1), unscrew drain plug(2) and drain the oil into a suitable container. After this, tighten the drain plug and fill through the hole for the dipstick (1) fresh oil to the required level.

Air filter maintenance. The air filter cleans the air that enters the carburetor, where it mixes with fuel. During operation of the gas generator, the filter gradually becomes dirty and ceases to perform its functions. A clogged air filter reduces quality fuel mixture, disrupts engine operation and leads to accelerated wear.

To prevent this from happening, the air filter must be serviced regularly. This is done as follows.

• Remove the filter housing cover.
• Remove and inspect the filter for dirt and damage.
• Damaged paper and foam filters are replaced with new ones. A dirty paper filter element must also be replaced. The contaminated foam filter is washed with soapy water, wrung out thoroughly, and dried. Cleaning the foam filter element with gasoline is not recommended due to the fire hazard of the latter.
• The foam filter is moistened with clean motor or special oil, wring out and insert into place. Do not allow the skin of your hands to come into contact with the oil.
• Close the filter housing cover.

Cleaning the fuel filter. Before entering the combustion chamber, the fuel passes through several filters. One of them is located in the fuel tap. It needs to be washed from time to time. To do this you need:

• close the fuel valve;
• unscrew the sump nut and remove sealing ring and mesh filter;
• wash the sedimentation tank, filter and sealing ring in gasoline;
• install the parts in place and tighten the sump nut;
• Open the fuel valve and check for fuel leaks.

Fuel tap with filter: 1 - fuel tap, 2 - settling filter, 3 - mesh, 4 - o-ring, 5 - settling tank.

Spark plug maintenance. For gasoline generators, only those spark plugs specified by the manufacturer should be used. Information about this is contained in the operating manuals for the equipment. Maintenance of the spark plug is carried out only on a cold engine. The work is performed in the following sequence:

• The spark plug cap can be removed and cleaned if necessary.
• Using a spark plug wrench, unscrew the spark plug.
• The integrity of its insulator is visually checked. If cracks are detected, the spark plug must be replaced.
• A special probe measures the gap between the electrodes, which should normally be 0.7-0.8 mm. If the actual values ​​deviate from the required ones, the spark plug gap is adjusted by bending or bending the upper electrode, or replacing the spark plug.
• If necessary, carbon deposits can be removed with fine sandpaper or a file.
• The candle is installed in place manually to avoid thread distortion.
• Wraps with a force of NO MORE than 25-30 Nm. After twisting new spark plug ignition by hand, it should be tightened 1/2 turn with a wrench to compress the washer. If installing an already used spark plug, it should be tightened by turning only 1/8-1/4 turn after tightening by hand.
• The cap is put on.

Preparing a gas generator for long-term storage (preservation)

• Completely drain the gasoline from the tank and dry it through the drain screw through the carburetor. With the drain screw loosened, remove the spark plug cap and pull the starter cord 3-4 times to drain the fuel from the fuel pump. Clean the fuel filters and install them in place.
• Change the engine oil.
• Unscrew the spark plug and pour one tablespoon into the cylinder motor oil. Rotate the engine shaft several times so that the oil covers the rubbing surfaces. If the cylinder has been coated with oil during storage preparation, the engine may smoke slightly during startup. This is fine.
• Screw the spark plug into place and turn the shaft with the starter handle until resistance appears. At this moment, the piston is in top point during the compression stroke, intake and exhaust valves closed, which prevents the occurrence internal corrosion engine.
• Place the generator in a clean and dry place for long-term storage.

As mentioned above, gasoline oxidizes and deteriorates during storage. Old fuel is the cause bad start, it contains resinous substances that contaminate the fuel system and can cause engine failure. How long fuel can be stored in the fuel tank and carburetor without causing functional problems can vary depending on factors such as temperature, air humidity, and how full the fuel tank is. Air in a partially filled fuel tank causes fuel to deteriorate. High temperatures and humid air accelerate the aging of gasoline. The problem of fuel quality deterioration may occur within 2-3 months or less, so it is recommended that during long breaks in operation, drain the fuel from the tank and carburetor and always use fresh fuel for operation.

Possible malfunctions of the gas generator and methods for eliminating them

Safety

The presence of unauthorized persons and animals in the work area must not be allowed.

Avoid using the generator in places with high humidity or in open areas during snow or rain. When working with the unit, hands and clothing must be dry.

Do not use the electric generator near flammable materials, flammable and explosive gases and liquids. The generator should be located at least 1 meter from other equipment and walls. Be careful not to touch the engine or exhaust pipe while the gas generator is running. This can cause serious burns.

Smoking is prohibited near the generator, and open flames or sparks must not be allowed near it.

Handle power cables with care; do not touch live parts of the generator. Damaged wires must be insulated or replaced immediately.

Before repairing and servicing the gas generator, it is recommended to disconnect the spark plug wire to avoid accidental starting of the engine.

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