The brake light circuit of KamAZ is somewhat more complicated than that of other cars. This is due to the use of several sensors that ensure the inclusion of brake lights when several braking systems are operating. Although the braking system is called KAMAZ, it is now used on other cars due to its reliability. The basic electrical circuit for all such cars is identical and differs only structurally. The KamAZ stop signal circuit includes sensors, an intermediate relay, a buzzer and a parking brake warning lamp, and of course, warning lamps in the rear lights of the tractor and trailer. The sensors are installed on the circuits of the brake system in the area of ​​the brake valve and are triggered when the pressure in the circuit changes. The latest models use a push-button switch installed under the pedal as the brake light sensor, as on most cars. When the pressure in any of the circuits changes, and in the presence of a push button switch, when you press the pedal, the sensor contacts close and connect the intermediate relay coil to the vehicle ground.

In this case, the current from the fuse passes through the relay coil, the contacts of one of the sensors to the car body. The relay contacts close and supply power to the warning lamps in the rear lights. When the parking brake is applied, in addition to the warning lamps, the parking brake warning lamp starts flashing. This is due to the fact that the parking brake chopper and the control lamp receive a minus through the parking brake sensor. Since all sensors are connected to the coil of the intermediate relay, when any sensor is closed, a minus appears on all sensors. In order that the control lamp does not turn on, when other sensors are triggered, a diode is included in the circuit, which prevents the negative from entering the parking brake sensor wire. During operation, some malfunctions are possible. The most common, for all vehicles, is when the brake lights are off. In this case, it is necessary to check whether the lamps are on when the parking brake is applied or not. If the lamps are on, then the sensor is faulty or the wire from it to the relay is broken. To check, it is necessary to disconnect the wire from the sensor and connect it to the vehicle ground. If the warning lamps light up, then the sensor is faulty. Otherwise, there is an open circuit in the wire. If the lamps do not light when the parking brake is applied, then it is necessary to check the serviceability of the fuse, warning lamps and relay. Defective elements must be replaced. The cause of the malfunction may also be a break in the wire connecting the relay with the signal lamps. If the warning lamps light up when the brake pedal is pressed, but do not light up when the parking brake is applied, then it is necessary to check the serviceability of the sensor, connecting wire and diode. It is better to start by checking the diode, which is located on the board of the signal lamps of the instrument panel, near the control paw of the parking brake. If, when applying the parking brake, a minus appears on the diode, then the sensor and the connecting wire are in good order. Otherwise, disconnect the wire from the sensor and connect it to the vehicle ground. If a minus does not appear on the diode, then it is necessary to eliminate the open circuit in the wire, if it appears to change the sensor. Another malfunction when the warning lamps are constantly on. Unlike those described earlier, this is typical only for the stop signal of KamAZ. There may be several reasons. The first is the short circuit of the positive wire to the signal lamp wire, in practice it occurs if the wiring was melted in the process of shorting the positive wire to the vehicle ground. The second reason is the sticking of the relay contacts of the signal lamps. To check, it is enough to remove this relay and put it back in the socket. If the relay is working properly, a characteristic click will be heard. A defective relay must be replaced. The third reason may be in the absence of power to the parking brake warning lamp and its breaker relay. In this case, plus through the winding of the relay of the signal lamps, the parking brake warning lamp, the supply wire of the control lamp and through one of the consumers receiving power from the same wire, goes to the minus. This closes the circuit and the pilot lamp relay is energized. To check, it is enough to disconnect the supply wire from the test lamp breaker. The relay should open and the warning lights should go out. Possible causes could be a defective fuse or an open wire. The last reason can be called the connection of any wire from the sensors to the vehicle ground. As in all cars in the KAMAZ brake light, the fuse of the warning lamps may also blow out. Troubleshooting depends on when the fuse blows. To search, you must release the parking brake and release the brake pedal. If the fuse blows out immediately upon installation, then a short circuit must be looked for under the dashboard from the fuse to the signal lamp relay. If the fuse blows when you press the brake pedal, then there is a short circuit in the wire from the relay to the rear lights or in the trailer socket.

String (10) "error stat"

Every motorist is most likely aware that one of his most important duties when driving on public roads is to notify other road users about the intention to make a particular maneuver. For example, to indicate the desire to turn left or right, special pointers are used, controlled by a special lever.

However, progress does not stand still, and some warning signals are given by the machine automatically. A striking example of this is the reverse of the car, during the implementation of which the taillights of the white-moon color light up automatically and in advance. This happens due to the presence of a special sensor in the design of the car. It is about the principles of its operation and repair that we will talk about in the article below.

The device and principles of the sensor

Reversing is one of the most important capabilities available to any vehicle. It is the inclusion of reverse speed that allows the car to move back without using a 180-degree turn. Thanks to this opportunity, the driver can not only conveniently position himself in the parking zones while driving, but also significantly save his time when performing a number of maneuvers.

When passing back, it is important for a motorist not only to closely monitor compliance with traffic rules and control the location of objects standing behind, but also to be sure that every third-party participant in the movement is aware of the desire on his part to move in reverse. Fortunately for all motorists, the notification process in this regard is fully automated and takes place through the use of a reverse sensor installed directly in the vehicle structure. Given such an important function of this component of the car, each car owner must monitor its good condition and, if necessary, repair it.

The reverse gear sensor works according to a simple principle, the essence of which is as follows:

1. The motorist, wanting to move in the opposite direction, includes a reverse gear;
2. The gearshift lever, reaching a certain place, moves the on / off switch (sensor) of the reversing headlights to the "ON" position and they, accordingly, light up;
3. After the maneuver is completed, the driver changes the reverse speed to the first or neutral, which turns off the previously switched on headlights.

The wiring for the reverse sensor is pretty simple, if not primitive. Its work, as a rule, is based on the use of a limit switch, which is a kind of button located in the path of the gearshift lever along the path of the reverse speed travel and pressed / released when it is turned on / off. That is, when wondering how to change the reverse sensor, you should be ready for a partial disassembly of the gearbox, because this unit is installed in it or within the limits of its operation.

Possible malfunctions

Reverse sensor repair is perhaps exactly what no one is insured against. It so happens that the node needs to be replaced only for the reason that it simply does not work. How to act in such a situation? First of all, it is important to understand why the sensor is faulty or not working correctly.

Today, it is customary to highlight the following possible node malfunctions:

• oxidation of contacts has occurred in some place of the electronic circuit;
• the sensor is "loose" or out of order;
• there was a "breakdown" in the identifier's electrical circuit;
• the contact between the sensor and the mounting block is broken;
• its fuse is blown;
• burned out lamps of rear lights ("stopar").

The symptomatology of a malfunction of the reverse sensor is probably clear to everyone - the corresponding headlights are inoperative or function extremely incorrectly. It is simply unacceptable to operate the car in this state, therefore, first of all, when a problem with the unit appears, it is worth thinking about where the reverse sensor is located and how to properly repair it. We will talk about this in more detail below.

Sensor repair: replacement and fault diagnosis

Complete replacement of the reverse sensor is definitely not what should be done as a matter of priority if the "stop" does not work properly. Before dismantling the old unit and installing a new one, it is important to exclude the possibility of manual repair of the chain and only then resort to replacement. In a typical version, the procedure for repairing a sensor looks like this:

Note that in most cases, the repair of the car's reverse sensor ends either at the first or second step of the repair. Considering the absolute simplicity of the repair measures, it is only necessary to carry them out correctly and in due measure, then problems with the node will certainly not cause discomfort.

Perhaps the most important piece of information on the issue at hand has come to an end. We hope that today's material has provided answers to your questions. Good luck on the road and in the repair!

If you have any questions - leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them.

Reversing driving in the dark will be a real test if the car's reversing lights are off. Consider why the lamps stopped burning and the methods of self-searching for the main reasons. It is likely that knowing how to test the reversing light switch will be the most useful skill when troubleshooting.

Main reasons

Replace the burnt-out insert only with a fuse of the same rating. Installing a fuse with a larger rating may lead to a fire in the vehicle. You can familiarize yourself with all the selection rules in the article "" .

The place of the switch in the light switching circuit

On cars with manual transmission, the voltage to the lamps when reversing is supplied through a limit switch (the so-called frog), which is screwed directly into the gearbox housing. When the reverse gear is turned on inside the gearbox, the switch button is pressed. The contacts inside the "frog" are bridged, the current begins to flow to the lamps.

On the schematic diagram of switching on the reversing lights, we can see that on the VAZ 1118 "Kalina" the current from the battery through the ignition switch (No. 2) is supplied to the fuse F1. Passing through the fusible rate that protects the switching circuit, "+" goes to the limit switch (No. 10). The contacts are in a normally open state and close only when the reverse gear is engaged. Thus, the current begins to flow to the light bulbs. The second contact of the lamps is connected to the "-" of the battery through the common contact of the "mass" of the lamps.

On vehicles with automatic transmission, the role of the limit switch lies on the selector position sensor. Information about the change in the position of the gearshift knob is transmitted to the engine ECU, the light control unit.

How to check the "frog"

If the reversing lights are on, then the problem is in the “frog”. Some drivers disassemble the switches, clean the contacts, after which the device continues to work properly. It is up to you to judge the appropriateness of such measures. But keep in mind that on many cars (including VAZ models) the limit switch is located below the oil level in the gearbox. We recommend simply replacing the switch-on sensor. For minimum oil loss, jack up the car from the side of the end switch installation.

On some cars, the reversing lights do not light up due to incomplete activation of the limit switch. The problem can be solved by installing a thinner washer under the "frog". To make sure that the switch is working, check with a multimeter in ohmmeter mode to see if the contacts close when the button is pressed.

Circuit check

The essence of diagnostics of the reason due to which the reversing lamps do not work is reduced to identifying the section of the circuit where the voltage disappears. To do this, you can use a conventional control lamp. Continuity testing is done with an ohmmeter, so you need to know.

You can start the test directly from the limit switch connector. Switch on the ignition. Connect one contact of the control lamp to an unpainted metal part in contact with the body, and the other to the “+” connector.

• If power comes in, check the reverse sensor.
• If, after installing the "jumper" in the connector, the lamps do not light up, then the problem is in the section of the wire circuit going from the connector to the lamps. Ring the wire up to the point where it divides into bulbs on the left and right sides. Most likely, the reason is precisely in the cliff.

To find the pinout of connectors, lamp contacts, wire colors, be sure to study the wiring diagram of your model and vehicle equipment.

The lamps are on continuously

If your car's bulbs are on constantly or come on regardless of whether the reverse gear is engaged, the reason will be among the following breakdowns:

• short-circuiting "+" going to the reverse gear sensor and the wires of the bulbs from the switch;
• the wire going from the connector to the lanterns has a short to "+" (it happens if the wires in the bundle are frayed);
• the sensor is frozen in a closed state.

Many different types of controllers and sensors are used in modern vehicles. Such devices can be control and executive. If for some reason the controller fails, this can cause inconvenience in terms of driving. What is a reverse sensor and what functions does it perform - the answers to these and other questions are presented below.

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Description of DZH

Appointment

Let's start with the destination. DZH is a device designed to activate white lamps, indicating the inclusion of reverse gear in the car. The device is used to activate the reversing lights, which allows other road users to be aware of the driver's intentions and maneuvers that he is about to take.

In the event that it is dark outside, white headlights will also warn the drivers of cars walking behind that your car is in their path. This, in turn, helps prevent possible accidents and emergencies on the road. Where is this device located - the location may vary slightly, but as a rule, the controller is located on the gearbox.

Design and principle of operation

The DZH itself consists of a body, contacts for connection, a rod, a moving ball, and a return spring.

As for the principle of operation, it is as follows:

1. The driver shifts the transmission lever to the reverse gear activation position.
2. In this case, the shift fork of the gear lever is pressed against the controller.
3. Further, the device short-circuits the cable to ground.
4. After that, the light source installed in is activated, which warns other drivers that the car has started to reverse.

Malfunction symptoms

What signs of a malfunction may indicate a breakdown of the DZH:

1. One of the problems that happens most often is the oxidation of the contacts on the terminals or wiring. This problem is relevant for many car owners. To solve this problem, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the contacts and then reinstall them. Disconnect the battery during these operations.
   If the contacts are inoperative due to the fact that they burned out, then in any case they will have to be changed. But before making a replacement, it is necessary to find out why the burnout occurred, most likely, the essence of the problem lies in voltage surges in the on-board network.
2. The device is loose in the seat. During operation of the vehicle, the controller may slightly move out of the installation site, this problem is usually caused by high vibrations. In this case, you just need to more securely fix the device at the installation site.
3. Another reason for inoperability is the lack of contact with the on-board network in the gearbox. In this case, it is necessary to diagnose the state of the contacts, as well as electrical circuits. If necessary, the failed components must either be cleaned or replaced.
4. The next problem is that there is no contact between the connection connector and the safety mounting block. In this case, you also need to diagnose the state of the contacts, as well as clean and replace the wires, if necessary.
5. Failure of the safety device. In this case, the problem will be solved only by replacing the fuse. If this part often fails, then the reason may lie in the same voltage surges. It is necessary to check the electrical circuit more closely.
6. The reversing light may not turn on due to the fact that the light source itself, that is, the lamp, has burned out. In this case, you will have to dismantle the optics upholstery in the trunk and replace the failed device.
7. And, finally, the last reason for inoperability is the breakdown of the DZH. In this case, you will not be able to repair it, since such devices, as a rule, cannot be repaired. The controller will need to be changed (the author of the video is the Do-it-yourself auto repair channel).

Functional check

To diagnose the operability of the device, you will need to drive the car into a pit or overpass in order to gain access to the DZH. The test procedure is carried out using a tester - ohmmeter. Alternatively, you can use a multimeter, just set it to the ohm measurement mode.

Testing the device is carried out as follows:

1. First, you need to get to the DZH and disconnect the connector connected to it.
2. Then you will need to connect the tester probes to the device plug, after which the device is set to the resistance measurement mode.
3. Switch on the ignition and put the transmission lever in reverse gear.
4. Start the power package and look at the tester display. If the reading on the screen is 0 ohms, and the tester beeps, this indicates that the device is fully functional. If the reversing lights do not turn on, then check the bulbs, fuse, connection circuit, and also contacts.
5. If the tester showed infinity as a result of the check, then this indicates that the controller is out of order, respectively, it must be changed (the author of the video on diagnostics and replacement is Igor K).

DIY replacement instructions

Now more about how the replacement is done.

Consider the procedure using the example of a VAZ 2110 car:

1. First, the car is driven into the pit. The area around the installed device must be cleaned of dirt, since after removing the device, all dust and debris will enter the transmission. And this, in turn, can lead to its failure.
2. Further, the crankcase protection is removed, for this it will be necessary to unscrew a few bolts.
3. Now you need a small container to collect the oil from the gearbox. When dismantling the DZH, a part of the lubricating fluid will come out of the seat, which will subsequently need to be poured back.
4. Disconnect the power connector from the controller and unscrew it from the installation location.
5. Then clean the socket so that the new device fits into the seat without any problems. Install the new controller, do not forget the O-ring.
6. Next, you will need to pour the required amount of lubricant into the transmission, that is, what you have drained must be poured back. But if the lubricant that you collected when removing the DZH contains traces of wear products, for example, metal shavings, or sediment, then you need to think about replacing the fluid. Or, at least, you need to pour new oil into the box, not the collected oil.
7. Then you just have to assemble all the elements in reverse order and check the performance of the installed DZH.

The reversing light, although not classified as a must-have light fixture, is nevertheless of great importance for the safe movement of your car.

Reversing light - basic functions

It is quite difficult to imagine how you can drive and not use reverse gear, or rather, such a situation, in principle, cannot exist. Moreover, it is not always possible to move around only during daylight hours, when there is excellent visibility outside the window. Therefore, it is very important to provide yourself with maximum comfort in the evening, as well as at night, and sometimes during the day, during fog, rain and other vagaries of weather that do not reflect in the best way on your visibility to other road users.

Thus, the main function of these lighting devices is to illuminate the road surface when driving backwards. In addition, it is they who warn all participants that you are planning to reverse, thereby performing an informative function. But, unfortunately, sometimes it is necessary to install an additional reversing light, since the regular one is not able to perform all tasks at the required level.

Reversing lights do not work - possible malfunctions and their causes

In order to assess the condition of the flashlight and understand the cause of possible malfunctions, you should study the device and the principle of operation. The scheme of work is quite simple and is as follows. As soon as the reverse gear is turned on, a special ball of the switch, coming out of the stem, closes the contacts. Thus, voltage is applied to the lamp and it is ignited. After the driver turns off the reverse gear, everything returns to its place, and the contacts are opened by the action of the return spring.

From the foregoing, it becomes clear that these lighting devices, however, like all the others, are connected with the electrical part, which means that there can be a lot of reasons why the reversing lights do not work. Among them, the most common are:

• burnt out light bulb;
• oxidation of contacts;
• defective fuses;
• lack of "mass" on the board;
• the reverse sensor has broken, or its wires have been broken;
• burned out contacts on the headlight film.

Reversing lights do not light up - fault diagnosis and repair

In general, the result of such malfunctions is one - the reversing lights do not light up. Then you need to identify the cause and, accordingly, eliminate it. If the lamp burns out, then it is time to replace it with a new one. To do this, turn off the outdoor lights, open the trunk and disconnect the wiring block. Of course, you will first have to dismantle all the upholstery behind the lantern. Further, squeezing the latches located on the sides, you can remove the panel and, pressing on the lamp itself, unscrew it. Then we put a new one and return everything to its place.

To work with wiring, as a rule, a multimeter is required, and a car is no exception.

Oxidized contacts must be cleaned. To provide access to them, you simply need to remove the headlight unit. What about the missing "mass", so it should be put in place, and the broken wires ring out, and the non-working ones change. Failed fuses also need to be replaced, they are all located in a special fuse box, so this is not difficult to do. Another problem can also arise when the reversing lights are constantly on.

There may be several reasons for this behavior, or again, not everything is in order with the electrical part, or a special sensor located on the box has failed. In the first and second case, arrange for the replacement of defective parts. In addition, the reversing light switch may also fail. You can get to it either from the bottom of the car, or through the engine compartment, but, before dismantling it, make sure that it is he who has failed.

To do this, having released it, you need to start the car and, and then, having closed the contacts, look at the lights that should light up. Further, removing the switch, we check with a multimeter whether the contacts are closed when it is turned on. In the absence of such a short circuit, flaring is indispensable. Cutting out a flexible contact from the electromagnetic relay of the required length, we tinker it in place of the old one. Then, after checking the reliability of the soldering, we assemble the switch back and ring it. With a normal closure, we install it in its original place.