Belt replacement for Audi A4 engine 1.6 liter 1996 to 2008
engine model AHL, ALZ
If the belt breaks, damage to the engine - YES
Removing the timing belt Audi A4
1. Raise the front of the car and place it on support stands.
2. Remove:
□ ALZ: engine cover.
□ Lower engine protection.
□ Front bumper.
□ Air duct to air filter.
□ Bolt (1) of the front panel.
3. Install guides (2) #3369 into the front panel. U
4. Remove the bolts (3) and (4) of the front panel.
5. Pull the front panel forward.
6. Remove the drive belt mounted units.
7. AHL: Lock the viscous fan clutch with a pin (17) with a diameter of 5 mm.
8. AHL: Using a hex wrench, unscrew the viscous coupling.
9. Remove:
□ Tensioner (5) for accessory drive belt.
□ Top cover(6) timing belt.
10. Set the piston of the first cylinder to TDC.
11. Check the alignment of marks (7) or (18) with the benchmark.
12. Check the alignment of the mark (8) with the benchmarks.
13. Remove:
□ Pulley bolts (9) crankshaft.
□ Pulley (10) of the crankshaft.
□ Center (11) and bottom (12) belt covers.
14. Loosen the tensioner nut (13). Move the tensioner away from the belt and lightly tighten the nut. "
15. Remove the timing belt.
If the belt is to be reinstalled, mark the direction of rotation of the belt with chalk.
Installing the timing belt Audi A4
1. Check the alignment of the mark (8) with the benchmark.
2. Put the belt on the crankshaft sprocket
3. Install:
□ Lower (12) timing belt cover
□ Pulley (10) of the crankshaft.
□ Bolts (9) of the crankshaft.
4. Lightly tighten the screws (9).
5. Check the alignment of the mark (7) or (18) with the benchmark
6. Put on the belt in the following sequence:
□ Water pump.
□ Tensioner.
□ Camshaft.
When installing the old belt, observe the direction of rotation according to the markings.
7. Make sure the tensioner is properly engaged in the lug (14).
8. Loosen the tensioner nut (13).
9. AHL: adjust tensioner:
Note: The engine must be cold.
□ Using the V.159 wrench, turn the tensioner counterclockwise as much as possible.
□ Relieve tension on the belt until the marker (15) is 10 mm below the slot (16).
□ Increase tension until marker (15) aligns with slot (16)
□ Tighten the nut (13) to 15 Nm.
10. ALZ: adjust the tensioner:
The engine must be cold.
□ Using the T10020 wrench, turn the tensioner 5 times from stop to stop.
□ Tighten the belt as much as possible.
□ Relieve tension on the belt until the marker (15) is against the slot (16).
□ Tighten the nut (13) to 20 Nm.
11. Check crankshaft clockwise two turns to the TDC of the piston of the first cylinder.
Turn the last 45° of the turn slowly and without stopping.
12. Check that the marker (15) is aligned with the slot (16). P
13. Check the alignment of marks (7) or (18) and (8) with benchmarks.
Removing and installing timing belt 4A-GE 1 - washer reservoir, 2 - hydraulic booster reservoir, 3 - right support engine, 4 - cover No. 2 of the cylinder head, 5 - oil filler cap, 6 - high voltage wires, 7 - spark plugs, 8 - timing belt, 9 - timing belt guide, 10 - timing belt tensioner, 11 - timing belt cover No. 1, 12 - crankshaft pulley, 13 - right side of engine protection, 14 - drive belt for the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump, 15 - drive belt for the generator and coolant pump, 16 - coolant pump pulley, 17 - belt tensioner for the generator and coolant pump drive, 18 - timing belt cover No. 3, 19 - cover No. 2 timing belts, 20 - connectors for washer pumps.
At removed belt Timing do not turn the camshafts and crankshafts to avoid collision between pistons and valves. Before removal camshafts it is necessary to turn the crankshaft 45 "counterclockwise.
Before installing the timing belt, first align the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the head cover, and then rotate the crankshaft 45° clockwise until the marks are aligned.
Removing the timing belt 4A-GE
1. Disconnect a wire from the negative plug of the storage battery.
2. Remove the washer reservoir.
3. Remove the power steering fluid reservoir.
4. Remove right side engine protection.
5. Set the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC of the end of the compression stroke.
Remove the oil filler cap and make sure you can see the notch on the camshaft.
6. Remove the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor drive belt.
7. Loosen the coolant pump pulley bolts.
8. Remove the alternator drive belt.
9. Remove the water pump drive belt.
10. Remove the intermediate pulley (alternator drive belt).
11. Remove the crankshaft pulley,
A) Using a suitable tool, remove the pulley fixing bolt.
b) Using a puller, remove (compress) the crankshaft pulley.
12. Remove the right support of the engine.
13. Remove timing belt cover #3.
14. Remove timing belt cover #2.
15. Remove timing belt cover #1.
16. Remove the timing belt cover.
17. Remove the timing belt tensioner by removing the two bolts.
18. Remove the timing belt.
If you plan to reuse the belt, draw an arrow in the direction of the belt (in the direction of rotation of the engine crankshaft) and make marks on the belt and pulleys as shown in the figure.
A) Remove the nuts (bolts) and remove the timing belt tensioner.
b) Remove the timing belt. Attention: when the timing belt is removed, do not turn the camshafts and crankshafts to avoid collision between the pistons and valves.
19. Remove cover No. 2 of a head of the block of cylinders.
20. If necessary remove a gear pulley of a cranked shaft. In case of difficulty, use two screwdrivers. Attention: to prevent damage to the elements of the cylinder block, place a rag as shown in the figure.
Timing belt installation 4A-GE
Keep camshaft and crankshaft pulleys free of water or oil and keep them clean.
1. Install the crankshaft sprocket (if removed).
a) Align the key on the crankshaft with keyway toothed pulley.
B) Push the pulley onto the toe of the crankshaft until it stops with the flare inward.
2. Install the timing belt.
A) Make sure that the marks on the head cover and the camshaft pulleys match.
b) Make sure the labels on the toothed pulley crankshaft and housing oil pump. Attention: in case of reusing the belt, align the previously made marks on the pulleys and the belt and take into account the direction of rotation of the belt.
B) Install the timing belt.
D) Make sure that 12 teeth of the belt are located between the marks on the camshaft pulleys.
E) Using a vise or press, compress the tensioner until the holes in the rod and cylinder walls line up. Perform compression gradually, the load on the rod should not exceed 9.8 kN (1000 kg).
Note: if the holes in the rod and cylinder are not aligned, then in the process of pressing the rod, turn it to align the holes.
E) Using an Allen wrench, secure the stem.
G) Install the tensioner and fix it with nuts (bolts) (M3 = 9.5 N m).
H) Remove the socket wrench that fixes the stem.
I) Make sure there is tension in the working branch of the timing belt.
3. Check up correctness of installation of a belt (phases of gas distribution).
A) Slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise 2 turns from TDC to TDC, after installing the crankshaft sprocket bolt.
b) Make sure the timing marks on each pulley match up with their respective timing marks.
4. Install the toothed belt guide with the flare outward as shown.
5. Install timing belt covers #1, #2 and #3.
Bolt length protective covers No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 of the timing belt is different, its value in mm is given in the figure.
6. Install the right engine mount.
7. Install the crankshaft pulley.
A) Align the key on the crankshaft with the pulley groove and fit the pulley onto the shaft.
b) Using a suitable tool, install and tighten the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt.
8. Install spark plugs and connect high voltage wires.
9. Install the water pump pulley.
10. Install the alternator drive belt.
11. Install the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor drive belt.
12. Install the right side of the engine protection.
13. Install the power steering fluid reservoir
14. Install the washer reservoir.
15. Connect a wire to the plug of the storage battery.
The timing belt is one of the important details V automotive device. It is responsible for synchronizing the rotations of the camshaft and crankshaft.
The timing belt is one of the important parts in an automotive device. It is responsible for synchronizing the rotations of the camshaft and crankshaft. Due to constant friction on the pulleys, the part wears out over time and becomes unusable. In particular problem situations the belt may even break, after which the car will not be able to move further. To avoid such a situation, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the belt and change it in time.
Highlight a few of the most common causes, due to which the timing belt may break. These are the following factors:
- the motor resource, which is provided by the manufacturer, has been exhausted;
- manufacturing defect;
- hit on the spare part of oil and dirt;
- foreign objects getting on the belt;
- jamming of one of the shafts, distribution or crankshaft;
- pump jamming;
- malfunctions tension roller.
In a word, every car owner needs to monitor the condition of the timing belt, paying attention to suspicious signs. Otherwise, a rupture may occur, which can lead to serious negative consequences.
Most often, a broken timing belt does not lead to serious consequences. The main problem becomes a complete stop vehicle on which it will no longer be possible to move. It is not possible to fix the breakdown on the spot, because the car must be driven into a pit or a lift. Therefore, the driver will have to take care of delivering the car to the nearest car service or other place where repairs can be carried out. This will require additional financial and time costs.
Sometimes a broken belt can lead to more serious consequences. So, the result can be bent valves. They will have to be replaced with new ones.
If the part is torn to Idling, it is unlikely that many valves will be damaged. If the break occurs when the gear is engaged, then there is a risk that all valves will be bent. In fact, it doesn’t matter how many parts were damaged. Experienced mechanics recommend changing the entire kit at once.
Even more serious is the situation when not only the valves are bent, but the bushings are also destroyed. In this case, the pistons can be pierced by fragments. The result will be ICE repair, for which you will have to pay a lot of money.
To avoid the negative situations described above, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the belt and replace it with a new one in time. Timely replacement will give the motorist confidence that the break will not occur at the most unexpected moment.
Most often, the timing belt is changed upon reaching a certain mileage. On Toyota cars, this figure is 100 thousand kilometers. If the car has already passed so much, then it is necessary to make a replacement. Otherwise, there is a risk that the belt will soon break due to the exhausted motor resource.
It is also necessary to change the part if damage is visible visually. They can sometimes be detected during the passage of maintenance or when eliminating other malfunctions.
If you can see that the belt is really frayed, then you should put new spare part without waiting for the specified mileage to be reached.
Traces of oil under the car may indicate the need for replacement. In case of leaks, liquid can get on the belt, due to which its material loses its properties. As a result, the part can no longer perform its functions.
Another possible sign problems with the belt element are rustling sounds coming from under the hood. If such signs are present, then a diagnosis should be made and the belt inspected.
There is a certain sequence of actions that must be followed in order to correctly replace the 4A-GE motor. First you need to get to it and remove it.
Before installation new part it is important to combine timing marks 4A- G.E.. Without this, the process will not complete normally.
So, to remove the belt, you must:
- Open the hood.
- Disconnect battery terminals. This is done in order to avoid accidental starting of the engine. This may be due to sensors being triggered.
- Remove washer reservoir.
- Remove the tank into which it is poured working fluid GUR.
- Remove the right part of the engine crankcase.
- Set the number one piston to top dead center on the compression stroke.
- Remove the power steering pump and A/C compressor belt.
- Loosen the bolts that secure the antifreeze pump pulley.
- Remove the alternator and coolant pump drive belts.
- Remove the alternator belt pulley.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley by first unscrewing the bolt.
- Remove the right engine support.
- Remove timing belt covers.
- Remove the timing belt tensioner.
- Dismantle the belt element itself.
With the belt removed, the camshaft and crankshaft must not be turned under any circumstances. Otherwise, it may lead to bending of the valves.
If necessary, remove the crankshaft sprocket. This is usually done in order to change worn seals. If these elements do not require replacement, then you can do without removing the pulley.
During the replacement process, the condition of other spare parts should be assessed in parallel so that they can be replaced immediately if necessary. In particular, special attention require camshaft and crankshaft seals. If there are leaks, then these parts must be changed. If they do not leak, then you can do nothing. But if the oil seals have been used for a long time, then it is worth putting new ones together with the belt. Otherwise, after a short time there is a risk of those same leaks.
Attachment belts should also be considered. If they don't look in the best way are badly worn out, it is necessary to put new ones. It is also worth checking the tension and bypass rollers of the timing belt. They should not publish extraneous noise. If the rollers whistle and creak, then it's time to change them too so that the engine runs normally and there are no new breakdowns.
Many car owners are concerned about the question of which belt to use. Should be prioritized original part Or can you save money by buying a similar one?
As for analogues, it is not known how they will behave. Sometimes installing them can do a lot of damage due to a mismatch. That's why optimal solution is the choice of the original. In addition, the belt is not the most expensive spare part It's definitely not worth saving on buying it.
In a word, the timing belt is special detail, which must be changed in time and prevent its strong wear. Otherwise, it can break, and this can happen at the most unexpected moment. Breakage of a belt spare part can lead to serious negative consequences. Therefore, it must be changed according to mileage or in case of physical damage. At the same time, you need to pay attention to other spare parts.
Toyota: 4A, 5A, 7A-FE engines. Guide - part 6
4. Install the first qi piston
lindra at TDC at the end of the compression stroke.
4.1.
a) Turn the crankshaft pulley
la and align the groove on the pulley with
label "O" on the protective cover No. 1
timing belt.
6)(4A-F, 5A-F)
Make sure the valve lifters
1st cylinder released. In against
otherwise, turn the crankshaft pulley
shaft for one complete revolution.
4.2. (4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE)
Make sure the hole in the pulley
drive camshaft co
fit with a label on its lid
bearing.
Otherwise, check
a) Turn the crankshaft pulley
and align the groove on the pulley with
coy "0" on the protective cover No. 1 rem
nya timing drive (for models AE and
AT) or with index pin
(for AW model).
b) Remove the oil filler cap
neckline and make sure you can
you can see the notch on the distributor
shaft.
Removing and installing the timing belt (4A-GE (AE92, AW11 and AT160)). 1 - pulley to
crankshaft (alternator drive pulley and coolant pump
sti), 2 - crankshaft pulley mounting bolt (MZ = 137 N.m), 3 - wedge
howling drive belt for the generator and coolant pump, 4 - for
shield cover No. 1 timing belt, 5 - coolant pump pulley,
6 - protective cover No. 2 of the timing belt, 7 - protective cover No. 3 of the timing belt,
8 - protective casing of the engine wiring, 9 - protective gasket
timing belt covers, 10 - timing belt tensioner, 11 - mounting bolt
timing belt tension roller (MZ = 37 N.m) (for AW model on the head
Timing, 13 - tension roller spring, 14 - toothed belt timing drive
(timing belt), 15 and 16 - toothed camshaft pulleys respectively
inlet and outlet valves, 17 and 18 - mounting bolts
toothed pulleys of camshafts, respectively, inlet and
exhaust valves MZ = 47 Nm (AE92 until 1987, AW11 and AT160).
MZ = 59 Nm (AE92 after 1987). 19 - a gear pulley of a cranked shaft
for timing belt.
Otherwise, check
crankshaft for one revolution (360°).
5. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
a) Using the right tool
loosen the fixing bolt
b) Using a puller, remove
(compress) the crankshaft pulley.
4A-F, 5A-F and 4A-FE (AE92, AE95
AT171 and AT180).
6. Remove belt guards
timing drive.
4A-FE(AE101 AND A T 1 9 0) ,
5A-FE and 7A-FE.
4A-GE
7. Remove the belt guide
timing drive.
8. Remove the timing belt.
Attention: in case of reuse
belt use, draw
belt direction arrow
(in the direction of rotation of the crankshaft
motor shaft) and make marks
on the belt and pulleys, as shown in
drawings.
a) Loosen the tension bolt
foot roller, move it until it stops
ra to the left and then temporarily fix
rut it in this position with the same
mounting bolt.
Removal and installation of the timing belt (4A-GE (AE101, AE111)). 1 - washer tank,
2 - hydraulic booster reservoir, 3 - right engine support, 4 - protective cover
wires of the ignition system, 5 - oil filler cap,
6 - spark plug high voltage wires, 7 - spark plugs, 8 - tooth
Timing belt tensioner, 11 - protective cover No. 1 of the timing belt, 12 - pulley to
crankshaft (alternator drive pulley and coolant pump
sti), 13 - right engine protection cover, 14 - compresso drive belt
air conditioner and power steering pump, 15 - generator drive belt
and coolant pump, 16 - coolant pump pulley,
17 - tensioner roller for the drive belt of the generator and the cooling pump
fluid, 18 - protective cover No. 3 timing belt, 19 - protective cover No. 2
timing belt, 20 - washer pump connectors.
Engine - mechanical part
(4A-GE(AE101,AE111))
a) Unscrew the nuts (bolts) and remove
the timing belt tensioner.
b) Remove the timing belt.
Attention: when the timing belt is removed, do not
turn junction
and crankshafts to avoid
collision between pistons and valves.
Engine - mechanical part
9.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
Remove the tension roller and tension
spring by completely unscrewing the bolt
tension roller attachment.
10. If necessary, remove the gear
crankshaft pulley. When
difficulties, use 2 screwdrivers.
Attention: to prevent
damage to cylinder block elements
ditch place a rag as shown
on the image.
11.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
If necessary, remove the gear
distributor drive pulley
shaft (4A-F, 5A-F, 4A-FE, 5A-FE and
7A-FE) or drive pulleys
camshafts (4A-GE
(AE92,AW11,AT160)).
Holding the camshaft
from cranking by setting times
water wrench on his hex
part, unscrew the fixing bolt
and remove the pulley.
Note: for 4A-GE (AE92, AW11,
AT160) remove the pulley from each race
limiting shaft.
4A-F, 5A-F, 4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE.
4A-GE(AE92,AW11,AT160).
3.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
Check the tension roller spring.
Measure the free length of the spring
condition (see picture), as well as
Lie required for a given de
formations (stretch marks) of the spring ("mouth
new "amplifying).
Attention: when performing this operation
walkie-talkie do not damage the wrench
what is the head of the block.
(4A-GE(AE101,AE111))
See relevant procedures
section "Checking and adjusting the
valve clearances" (p. 9-15).
Checking the state of the elements
timing gear
1. Check the timing belt
Timing.
Attention:
The belt must not be bent
twist or turn inside
her side out.
The belt must not contact
wash with oil, water or steam.
Can't use tension
belt when loosening or
turning the fixing bolt
camshaft pulley.
If you have the following
defects, check their possible
a) Premature dissection
or broken belt, check
the correctness of the installation of the belt and its
shield covers.
b) Damage or breakage
belt teeth check fastening
camshaft.
c) With significant wear or
damage on the outer surface
belt, check the presence of
damage or dents on the surface
tension roller.
d) If there is wear or damage
only one side of the belt
check the condition of the guide
belt and/or pulleys.
e) If there is significant wear
check the condition of the belt teeth
protective covers, correct
ness of installation of the gasket and cash
any foreign objects on
pulley teeth.
If there are defects
replace the timing belt.
2. Make sure the tension roller
rotates smoothly, without jamming. IN
otherwise, replace the roller.
The length of the spring in the free state
early releases 43.3 mm
late releases 38.4 mm
4A-FE (Models AE92, AE95,
AT171.AT180) 43.3 mm
4A-FE (Models AE101,
AT190) 35.3 mm
5A-FE 36.9 mm
7A-FE 31.8mm
4A-GE (models AE92, AW11
and AT160) 43.5 mm
Force required to increase
spring length to "installation"
states:
early releases (50.2 mm) 69H
later releases
(50.2 mm) 35.5 - 39.5 N
4A-FE (Models AE92, AE95,
AT171, AT180) (50.2 mm) 65-73 N
4A-FE (Models AE101,
AT190) (43.6 mm) 35-39H
5A-FE (43.6mm) With 34 -38 N
7A-FE (37.6 mm) 47.5 - 51.5 N
4A-GE (models AE92, AW11
and AT160) (50.2 mm) 93 - 103 N
If the spring length and/or "set
internal" force do not correspond
specifications, replace
4.(4A-GE(AE101,AE111))
Check tensioner seal for
no grease leaks, and the stem is
no wear, cracks or scratches.
Note: minor traces
lubricants on the stem seal are not
indicate a malfunction on
loader.
Timing belt installation
Note: Don't get hit
water or oil on the gear
camshaft pulleys
shafts and keep them in
purity.
1.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
Install the drive pulley
camshaft (if
(4A-F, 5A-F, 4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE)
a) Align the dowel pin
on the toe of the camshaft with
groove of the toothed pulley and fit
those pulley on the camshaft.
Attention: for 4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE
2 types of pulleys are used with one
or two grooves, in the last
case dowel pin on
camshaft wear
should be aligned with the groove,
labeled accordingly
("A" - 4A-FE, "K" - 5A-FE,"E" - 7A-FE).
Engine - mechanical part
b) Using the gear bolt
that crankshaft pulley,
return the crankshaft and
Keep the sync marks on
toothed pulley and on the oil housing
foot pump.
(4A-GE(AE92, AW11 and AT160))
a) By setting divorce in turn
wrench for hex sections
camshafts, rotate
them and align the synchronizing
marks on the gear pulleys
casting shaft and on the protective
cover #4 of the timing belt.
b) Rotate the crankshaft and
fit sync marks
on the toothed pulley and on the housing
lye pump.
(4A-GE(AE101,AE111))
a) Make sure the labels on the
head cover and pulleys.
4A-F and 5A-F.
5. Install the piston of the 1st cylinder in
TDC position at the end of the compression stroke.
(4A-F, 5A-F, 4A-FE, 5A-FE and 7A-FE)
a) Installing the wrench on
hex section
shaft, rotate it and
fit the mark on the bearing cover
nick camshaft with
the center of the small hole on the pulley
camshaft (4A-F and
5A-F) or with hole center,
labeled accordingly
("A" - 4A-FE, "K" - 5A-FE, "E" - 7A-FE).
c) Holding each - distribute
body shaft for its hexagonal
part with an adjustable wrench, tighten
distribution pulley bolt
body shaft (MZ = 59 Nm).
2.(4A-GE)
Install qi head covers
lindrow (see "Installing the block head
ka cylinders").
b) Temporarily install the crepe bolt
pulley.
c) Holding the distributive
shaft for its hex part times
with a water wrench, tighten the screw
capturing the camshaft pulley.
Torque:
4A-F, 5A-F 47 Nm
4A-FE. 5A-FE and 7A-FE 59 N.m
(4A-GE (AE92, AW11 and AT160))
a) Position the installation
camshaft pins,
as it shown on the picture.
b) Align the dowel pins
camshafts with grooves
kami toothed pulleys and fit"
pulleys for camshafts.
Wherein installation marks must
we be located at the top like
shown in the figure.
3. Install the crankshaft pulley
that shaft (if removed).
a) Align the key on the crank
tom shaft with keyway
toothed pulley.
b) Put the pulley on the toe of the crank
of that shaft to the stop by flanging in
inside.
4.(All except 4A-GE (AE101, AE111))
Temporarily install the tension roller
and tension spring.
a) Fix the roller with the bolt without tightening
bending the last one.
b) Install the tension spring.
c) Pull the roller to the left as far as it will go and
tighten the bolt.
The content of the article:
Automobile Mitsubishi Outlander l Remove: Front right wheel and engine protection. (if any) -Fender liner and -Remove the timing belt -Unscrew the belt roller of the left balancer. Tension roller bolt and left balancer mark.
Mitsubishi Lancer MT WAGON › Logbook › Timing belt break and ICE replacement. And as they say, "first I did it then I thought", I decided to look at the timing marks and they did not match. We went to the service on a tow truck.
MITSUBISHI DION. Before installing the timing belt on the camshaft sprockets, make sure that all sprocket marks match the corresponding alignment marks.
We unscrew the bolt of the tension roller of the balancing belt, remove the roller and balancing belt. Removing plastic clips plastic covers and unscrew the bolt securing the fender liner marked with red arrows: ATTENTION Turn the crankshaft only clockwise. CAUTION If the stem compression speed is too fast, the stem may be damaged, so be careful and do this operation slowly.
How to set the timing belt Mitsubishi Carisma? (resolved) - 1 answer
Replacing the timing belt on engine 2. And this, in turn, indicates the desirability of replacing the timing belt. Timing belt - definitely original MD Balancing shaft belt - definitely original MR or MD Timing belt tensioner - original MR Timing belt tensioner pulley - can be original MD, or NTN JPUB can be Tensioner pulley - can be original MD, or can be NTN JPUB Roller bypass belt Timing - you can original MD, or you can Koyo PURR1D.
I note right away that the rollers in points 4 and 5 are installed from the NTN factory, and the roller indicated in paragraph. So, buying the above rollers is "original", you pay half the price for a package with the inscription "Mitsubishi" and you find in this package rollers from NTN and Koyo. Let's proceed to the main procedure. Naturally, all this is under the car.
We loosen the nuts securing the right front wheel, jack the right front of the car and remove the right front wheel. We take out the plastic clips for fastening the plastic casings and unscrew the bolt for fastening the fender liner marked with red arrows: inner part fender liner and unscrew one more casing fastening bolt: After we remove the front casing: We stand on our feet and unscrew the 4 bolts securing the camshaft cover: Pull the cover towards the car interior: Hang the engine so that the left engine mount, the one next to the camshafts, does not deform, otherwise in the future we will not remove it: Again under the hood - unscrew the attachment of the power steering hose from the engine mount: Unscrew the mount itself 3 nuts on the pillow closer to the engine and 3 bolts closer to the wing: From the other angle it looks like this: When removing the pillow, I unscrewed it from the bracket , this could not be done: Slightly weaken but do not twist !!!
With the help of an adjustable wrench and a knob, we turn the tensioner of the hinged belt counterclockwise, we need a strong effort, we combine 2 holes from the bottom of the tensioner and fix the tensioner in the bent state with a Phillips screwdriver: Hinged belt weakened, unscrew the 4 bolts of the pump pulley to the end and remove the pulley itself: Unscrew the 4 bolts of the decorative engine cover red arrows and remove it. We also take out 2 chips, the ignition modules going to the coils are indicated by green arrows: We take the head for 22 or 21 - I don’t remember and put it on the crankshaft bolt, to the head there is a powerful knob, which we rest against the bottom of the wheel drive: We sit behind the wheel, turn on the ignition and crank the starter for half a second.
We unscrew the crankshaft bolt, as well as 4 crankshaft pulley bolts: And again under the hood. We set either by turning the crankshaft or the camshafts clockwise, the marks on the engine cover and the marks on the camshaft gears are indicated by green arrows. We tightly connect the gears of the camshafts of the blue and red curves to each other, preventing the camshafts from turning relative to each other in the future.
One of the shafts, using the camshaft pulley mounting bolt, is indicated by black arrows; we fix it with a key, for example, by winding the key to the strut spacer with wire, preventing the camshafts from turning.
Unscrew the pulley drive belt, unscrew the bolts of the lower timing protection: Remove the bypass roller drive shaft and bottom timing guard. Here's what we'll see if we stand up: Now it's convenient to crawl from below to the timing belt tensioner pulley. So we unscrew it: Next, we unscrew and remove the timing belt tensioner itself: Remove the timing belt gear from the crankshaft: Next, we get the following picture: We twist 2 bolts securing the crankshaft position sensor, move it to the side and remove the iron plate, marking the inner and outer side, so as not to confuse when installing back.
We unscrew the roller tensioner of the balancing shaft: Remove the roller tensioner of the balancing shaft and the balancing belt: It remains to unscrew the bypass roller of the timing belt. But you can't just get close to him.
In order to unscrew it, you need to: We pull the power steering pump itself to the side front bumper and get access to the 6th bolt:
