Collect a buggy from the cornfield with your own hands. We make the drawings of the buggy ourselves. Craftsman: Andrey "Nitro" Anikin

My friend offered to make a buggy, real in the right way smile.gif After a little thought, I agreed to his provocation. A friend purchased 99.9% of parts on a buggy, and I helped with welding-ideas-tools with a room and, most importantly, a company (one cannot do it all alone)

So here is the uprooted motor with a box. Heart so to speak ...

Start. So, as usual, the soul demanded rational decisions, so a buggy from the Soviet magazine "Modelist Constructor" was taken as a basis, it was called AB-82, and had most of the spare parts from the kindest gear in the world with a motor, ZAZ 968, i.e. Zaporozhets.
For a while, we found tools, did a mega-cleaning in the garage and looked for a donor. The tools (the most necessary) were found You can work in the garage (cleaned up, made the lights, etc.) Purchased ZAZ 968, rear-engined red coupe.
So we drove the ghost around the city, it drives, it is alive. In the garage, they butchered it (there is no photo of butchering, apparently we were very keen on the process)
We arrived at the garage, cleaned up, made a light, it seemed like decent, more or less working conditions came out ... We bought ordinary iron profiles at a metal warehouse, (shaped pipe) And they began to sculpt with a welding machine, which means ... Art

Art expanded, at first the bottom was welded, here the drawings were followed by 90%. The frame was made a little larger than in the drawings.

Somewhere in the process, a rear suspension appeared. These are native Zaporozhye levers with hubs, and on their own "ears", carefully opened in advance from the donor's body. There was an opportunity to move to my garage, which we did. Worked so that there was light, order and beauty, nothing happens for free.

As it was

How did it become
Pay attention to the high-tech technology for painting walls (they thought to make it lighter, like beauty and light are reflected) The technology is this, one paints chaotically in one place, the second in another, the paint suddenly ends (sellers are such sellers ... they promised that for the whole garage 10 layers is enough for a bucket .. but really ...) and this event is over))

The front arms and suspension were made.
The pipes of the rods are the rods from the rear suspension of the VAZ classics. With silent blocks.
Ears on the frame for homemade silent metal 2mm.
The ball mounts at the bottom are a piece of the VAZ front arm.
Ball vases of course.
Above, there is a releasable vase tip instead of a ball tip.
The bushing for adjusting the camber is welded into the upper arm (the bushing was made by the turner)
The turner also made a spacer for the upper ball-tip (they have different cones)
Initially, IZHP 4 shock absorbers were installed, but this is too weak an option.
Later they changed.
The rubber is still there to roll.

Suspension I must say was not welded from the bulldozer. The kinematics of the levers are measured in such a way that the contact patch of the tire with the road is always maximum. Checking the suspension travel. This is already a very interesting moment when the structure can be rolled at least somehow! Joy like 7 year olds.

Fiery heart, engine i.e. Trying on. The mountings for the motor and gearbox remained original, with minor modifications.

A general photo with a suspension and a homemade metal bucket 0.8 according to drawings from our wonderful Internet (what would we do without it ?!)

Again erotic fantasies on themes with a roof ... Design and engineering (from the word engineer or fig?))

Time has passed. We chose how beautiful it will be.

Space gravity. An intermediate, meaningless, cool snapshot.

By the way, here's the motor mounts closer. Just in case)

We began to make pedals, mounting tanks, cylinders. Alas, there are no high-quality photos of the process, either written or in between, like here. But the main thing is there is gas)) The steering rack is also fixed offhand. This moment is adjusted for a long time so that the balls in the steering rack are in a certain place relative to the suspension attachment lines. In short, what would you steer the car, and not she steered you over the bumps. Steering rack OKA (1111) Steering gimbals VAZ 2107, very comfortable, and for safety + Steering tips VAZ classic.

The first descents from the hill, the steering wheel on a stick with electrical tape, no seats, no brakes, nothing ... Don't do this, it's dangerous for everything in general)))) Ocean of course joy. Front wheels are normal, vaz, rear zaz (vazovskoe is a temporary dummy for a photo, really only zaz wheels per zaz hub)

Bottom. For it is dangerous to skate without him. Sheet metal, 0.8 in my opinion. Initially, it was fastened to self-tapping screws with a drill, but as practice has shown, they are not suitable for these purposes, they fall out from vibration, and are often cut off by the ground when jumping and so on. And then another mystery who will collect them with wheels ... Later, the bottom was welded with dots. By the way, from the start, the project was cooked with electrodes. And with the move to a new home, the machine was created only with a semiautomatic CO2 and a 0.8mm wire. It is more convenient, faster, lighter, there are a lot of advantages for this type of welding.

After the first trials, the hopes for compact lightweight shock absorbers disappeared. We put two of these on the side, it became better, we drove them for a while, but not that. By the way, out of the corner of your eye you can notice that there is a gas cable, clutch tanks, brakes, brake pipes and a high-quality steering rack. Such moments require a lot of thought and creativity, so they forgot about the photo campaign. On the floor of the buggy - linoleum)) Type was domesticated temporarily.

Every child dreams of riding a go-kart, motor scooter, moped, motorcycle, but when it comes to almost a real buggy, there is practically no limit to his delight. It will not be difficult to make this type of transport, only a little desire is needed. You just need to successfully purchase an engine from a 125 cm3 scooter.

DIY materials and tools
engine 125 cm3;
old metal water pipes;
electric welding;
wheels 10 inches;
steering rods from the VAZ 2101;
scooter shock absorbers;
brake pads.

Buggy making process

Step 1. Making the frame and steering
Using ordinary water pipes of different sections and profiles, a frame is made for the future buggy. Metal parts must be joined using conventional electric welding.

It is optimal to take regular 10 inch wheels from a scooter. Independent pendulum suspension, made with shock absorbers on both sides. In conventional karting, the steering is done through the steering rack, in a homemade buggy it will not be. It is only necessary to find the steering rods from the Zhiguli "Kopeyka". Driving a buggy will be more difficult than a regular go-kart.

Step 2. Differential
For the existence of a reverse gear and a differential in a buggy, it is necessary to use a reducer axle from the "Ant" scooter, it has everything that we need. To reduce vibration of the engine, it must be firmly bolted to the frame. The drive must be positioned in accordance with the center of the pendulum attachment, thus it becomes possible to adjust the chain tension.

Step 3. Installing the brakes
The brakes are installed only on the rear wheels. Brake drums are located on each axle shaft, they stop the buggy very well. It is necessary to get the cables from the Zhiguli hand brakes. When the pedal is depressed, they activate the brake pads on each of the drums.

Step 4. Final stages of assembly
The fuel tank is also taken from any scooter. The seat from Zaporozhets is ideal for a mini-buggy, it can be easily adjusted to any height. We put everything in its place and use this homemade product with pleasure.

Since today is a day off, I will try to write a light article, you know I have a topic for this for a long time. For example, several of my readers, after a post about "", asked me this question - what is BUGGY? Others asked the question - is it possible to assemble them with your own hands? Today I decided to collect everything in one article, and dot the i's. Here we go …

BUGGY - these are light cars, often made by hand, used mainly for driving on rough terrain, or for off-road. Often used in autocross. They are distinguished by high cross-country ability and a durable chassis, they often have a motorcycle engine.

As you can imagine, these are also "spontaneous" (not conveyor) variations of cars, which were made mainly for motorsport on rough terrain. Now there are specialized companies that are engaged in their production. However, there are also folk craftsmen who produce with their own hands.

History of appearance

The first such cars appeared in the United States around the 1950s. If you try to translate the word "BUGGY", then the literal translation will mean - "carriage", "convertible", "small trolley". However, this is not the reason why the cars got their name!

The thing is that in 1950, the United States simply filled in the "trophy" VOLKSWAGEN "BUG" (or as we all know it now, "BEETLE"). Of course, the working machines were used for their intended purpose, they were simply driven. However, there were also a lot of faulty cars, for example, with a damaged body, but serviceable "insides". It was these cars that were sorted out, instead of a twisted body, they installed a do-it-yourself frame, into which, as you understood, they mounted the engine, chassis, seats, etc. The cars turned out to be very light, and it is because of this lightness that they were called “BUGGY”, which is a diminutive of the word “BUG” - it means “BUGGY”.

A little later, after a couple of decades, they evolve on BAGGI, they begin to install turbocharged engines that develop power up to 200 hp, special bodies are made, this allows you to reach very high speeds, which involuntarily attracted many spectators, often just whole auto shows were unfolding. Popularity grew simply in a quadratic progression around the world.

This is how another generation of light cars was born, on which autocross racers are now competing, in general it is a whole industry.

Structure

As before, now BAGGY also have a lightweight frame body, in fact, these are strong pipes that are welded in a certain sequence. However, in fairness, it should be noted that now even lighter structures - made of carbon - are replacing metal. The frame must be as strong as possible to withstand all other loads. The rest of the units are hung on the body as the main part. Namely - the engine, transmission, suspension, and of course the interior.

Now, by the way, there are options for closed cars, sides are made of carbon fiber, which cover either the driver or the necessary parts (for example, the engine), so you can move on dirty roads, and not only on arid ones.

The BAGGY layout is also specific and remains so almost to this day. It was the "Volkswagen BEETLE" that determined the design for many years to come by its structure.

As we know the location of the engine behind it, there is also no cooling radiator, which turned out to be very popular for such cross-country cars.

But the most important component is the suspension, it is in BAGGY that it is considered the most passable and most durable. Moreover, the ground clearance can reach as much as 500 mm, which is just a lot!

As you understand, such vehicles can be made with your own hands, in principle there is nothing difficult for a knowledgeable person.

Now such cars are assembled even with motorcycle engines. Of course, without special training, you are unlikely to do it yourself, you need specialists, but if you connect them, something like this can happen, we watch the video.

Buggy leaving ...?

Now, however, the era of these lightweight SUVs is slowly passing away. And the emergence of quads is to blame here. It is on them that the attention of many autocross spectators is now focused.

However, BAGGY did not die, they are now being modified, so other engines (already with water cooling) began to be used. Many suspension parts migrated from SUVs, and improvised cabins, bumpers and other fiberglass body elements appear.

There are also competitions, now they can be divided into several types:

Beach

Rally Raids

Crawlers

There is no longer the same structure, BUGGY can be both front-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive. Now there are competitions in "climbing" on stones, for example, a track is chosen in which there are a lot of large stones, the car must pass along it without falling off, and also not get stuck. Very spectacular! A small example of a competition.

It should be noted that for its lightness of structure, and high cross-country ability, it gained popularity in many armies of the world. Even in Russia there are such developments, the main task of the transfer of troops over long distances over rough terrain (especially deserts).

Also used to patrol the captured perimeter, sometimes a light machine gun is installed.

Here is such an interesting car, I think you liked the article, read our AUTOBLOG.

The word buggy hides a wide variety of car models that are very different from each other. When designing, it is important to adhere to certain proportions so that the parts match each other: in weight, size, maximum load capacity, etc. Consider different designs as power increases.

How to make a buggy with your own hands:

From a motorcycle
From OKI
From Zaporozhets

From a motorcycle

A light little buggy can be assembled on the basis of an IZH motorcycle engine, or Ural. It will weigh 300 kilograms and reach speeds of up to 80 km / h. In this design, motorcycle parts are used as much as possible from small cars.

From OKI

An excellent budget buggy donor is OKA. The hubs are lightweight. The liquid-cooled engine is protected from overheating and is not as noisy as a motorcycle. The steering rack has a safety margin sufficient for its class. The OKI-based buggy has a higher cross-country ability than a production car.

From Zaporozhets

Zaporozhets, having a rear-engine layout, in fact, is a ready-made version of the buggy. When creating frame drawings, it is advisable to provide for mounting the engine backwards for better cooling and weight distribution along the axles. In this case, it is necessary to turn over the main pair (differential) by swapping the right and left sides. And to make a special gearshift drive, since the gearbox stem turns from the driver to the rear bumper, and this complicates the linkage system.

Video of the process of building a buggy from a Zaporozhets

Shock absorbers, like the hubs for the buggy, can be left "native". But the suspension arms will have to be made by yourself, more on that below.

For simplicity, it is better to take a carburetor model so that there are no unnecessary problems with the electronics. While this is a matter of personal preference, the design remains the same. The engine is usually installed behind the driver. Front axle shafts and hubs of VAZ 2108, 09, etc. are used to drive the rear wheels. To increase the rigidity of the rear suspension, you can use the front struts with springs from the 41st Moskvich, because each car carries more than 300 kg.

For the all-wheel drive version, all four hubs are front, from the VAZ 2108. The axle shafts are connected to the cut-off axle from the "classic", for example, the VAZ 2106. On the rear axle, the trunnions are fixed without the ability to turn. And the front ones are like on a car. The differential of the power unit, for a uniform transmission of torque to the axles, it is better to block.

With this arrangement, it is worth considering that the maximum speed will decrease by the gear ratio of the axles used, since now the engine axle shafts transmit rotation to the wheels not directly, but through one more differential. This makes it possible to use large diameter wheels without overloading the motor.

Homemade cars mean a homemade frame. For the supporting frame of the buggy, ordinary water pipes can be used, but it is better if they are seamless, round or square in cross section 30 - 50 mm in diameter. The upper part of the frame is welded from thin pipes. It is important to take into account that the frame must be able to withstand the weight of the vehicle and the force of the impact during rollover. This applies to buggies of any class.

To design, you must have:

Pipe bender
Grinder
Welding machine
Drill

It is advisable to keep trim boards and bars close at hand, because there is always a need to raise some frame elements and fix them in this position.

The production of the frame is started on a level ground. The pipes bent, according to the drawings, are first tacked by welding, checked, and only after that they are finally welded. It is important to be careful that the frame does not lead, since metal stress occurs during welding. For the same reason, it is advisable not to join, but to use solid pipes.

Front suspension

The long A-arm suspension has proven itself to provide long wheel travel. Another plus is that it allows you to change the angle of inclination of the shock absorber with a spring, thereby adjusting the stiffness of the suspension.

The pendulum arm is subjected to heavy loads during operation, so it is important to pay special attention to the materials and quality of the welds when assembling this part.

To reduce wear on the silent blocks and extend their service life, the levers must be calculated as wide as possible. That is, the bases of the letter A, into which the silent blocks are pressed, should be as far apart as possible, but so that the width of the lever does not interfere with the rotation of the wheel.

A nuance that can later upset is the limited stroke of the finger of the lower ball joint in its socket. In other words, the pin may restrict the up or down travel of the suspension in the wrong place where expected. This needs to be verified at the design stage.

Rear suspension

If you decide to use a bridge, then the design task is simplified. But for a buggy, independent suspension is better. Levers can be longitudinal and transverse.

Cross arm

Take the front suspension that is used in many Japanese passenger cars as a reference. This is a triangular lever, one side of which is located across the car and is attached through one silent block, and the second shoulder goes forward to the center and serves as a jib that takes on the load when the car jerks.

Trailing arm

To successfully use the trailing arms, transverse reaction thrust is necessary, otherwise the buggy will not hold the road well. Trailing arm silent blocks last longer than classic ones.

If you decide to build a buggy at home, time will not be wasted. Even if nothing comes of it, this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with the work of the main components of the car. And if you succeed, you will have a unique car.

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What material is suitable for use in a homemade buggy or ATV? And if you want to participate in competitions?

Thanks for the material Nitro

- Can I use square pipes?

- what section of pipes should be?

- can seam pipes from the regular building materials market be used?

- how to bend the frame tubes?

- Is it possible to make a frame without using a pipe bender - just weld the frame from pipe pieces?

the answers are as follows:
The frame must be constructed from seamless cold-formed solid-drawn pipes. The material must have certain strength characteristics.

In the "bible" of the buggy builder (Nazarov M. M. "Special cross-country vehicles - buggies", Moscow, DOSAAF 1980) it is written as follows - "The main safety arches are made of cold-drawn seamless steel pipes. Their minimum dimensions depend on the class and weight of the vehicle. For classes 0 and 1 with engine displacement up to 350 and 500 cm3 - 35x2 mm; for classes 2-15: with a mass of up to 700 kg - 42x2.5 mm; from 700 to 1200 kg - 48x2.5 mm; over 1200 - 57x3 mm ".

Given that pipes made of this material are expensive and have limited weldability, other pipes can be taken. The most suitable are seamless, seamless, cold-formed pipes made of steel 20. You can buy such pipes at large metal depots; in Moscow, you can buy pipes at Metal-Service. There is almost everything and they sell it at retail.

For buggies such as "Hurricane", ST2, such classes as minibuggy, go kart, it is allowed to use profile electric-welded pipes of a square or rectangular cross-section. It is convenient to handle them in a garage, but you need to remember that a square pipe works differently for torsion, compression and bending, unlike a round pipe (resistance is not such a difficult thing). But, as a rule, you want to ride and not reach any records, so such pipes are actively used for buggies - especially abroad. Oddly enough, but a DIY class buggy - (do it yorself - do it yourself).

About suture pipes - I know some people use them. In large cities it is possible to buy what you need, but outside these cities it is quite problematic - you need to buy a large batch. If there is nothing besides seam pipes, you can choose a pipe with a thicker wall. By the way, there were cases when individual athletes in off-road races built frames from an ordinary water pipe with a thick wall - in order to pass the minimum weight requirements. The main arches for the buggy must be solid - they still affect the safety of the pilot (and passengers). the rest of the frame can be welded from pieces of pipes. When welded correctly, the strength will be sufficient.

There are many Chinese pipe benders in any construction market now. they are all designed for water pipes (their dimensions depend on the DN - the nominal diameter). the second feature of such pipe benders is that the ovality of the pipe in the center of the bend will be greater than that required by the sports regulations - if the regulations do not restrain, you can take it and bend it.

How to make a buggy with your own hands:

From a motorcycle
From OKI
From Zaporozhets

From a motorcycle

From OKI

From Zaporozhets

Video of the process of building a buggy from a Zaporozhets

Shock absorbers, like the hubs for the buggy, can be left "native". But the suspension arms will have to be made by yourself, more on that below.

To design, you must have:

Pipe bender
Grinder
Welding machine
Drill

It is advisable to keep trim boards and bars close at hand, because there is always a need to raise some frame elements and fix them in this position.

Front suspension

The pendulum arm is subjected to heavy loads during operation, so it is important to pay special attention to the materials and quality of the welds when assembling this part.

Rear suspension

If you decide to use a bridge, then the design task is simplified. But for a buggy, independent suspension is better. Levers can be longitudinal and transverse.

Cross arm

Trailing arm

To successfully use the trailing arms, transverse reaction thrust is necessary, otherwise the buggy will not hold the road well. Trailing arm silent blocks last longer than classic ones.

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DIY buggy is a dream from my childhood. I remember how we, yard boys of 5 - 7 years old, were fond of technology. They collected some pieces of iron, argued about cars and motorcycles. We often approached the drivers who came to our yard and asked them how much the car was “taking”, that is, to what speed it could accelerate. The guys usually answered who was serious, who was joking. We could watch for hours as a neighbor repairs his iron horse, and then arranged a battle for oily, worn-out parts, whose place is in the trash heap.

Many people had bicycles then, older guys could even fix minor breakdowns, tighten the chain, pump up the wheels. But the four-wheeled pedal Moskvich was only one of my friend and peer. Green in color, with beeps and headlights, it has invariably been a source of controversy and even fights for a place behind the wheel of the boys. The only drawback of Moskvich was low speed, cyclists easily overtook. How great it would be to put a real engine in Moskvich!

There were even legends among us about such a miracle we had seen personally. I often dreamed about how I would drive along the paths and paths in such a small car.

As time passed, I grew up, learned how to handle a wrench, drill and soldering iron. Of course, from the size of the Moskvich, I have already grown, and for the motor it did not fit at all. But the desire to build something of my own, with wheels and a motor, did not leave me.

The e-bike is a dress rehearsal for the DIY buggy.

The first self-propelled self-propelled gun was an electric bicycle.

He is on the right in the photo. Of course, buying a battery and a wheel with a motor, and then screwing it all up on the bike, turned out to be easy. But I was pleased with the result. I will never forget my first trip around the city at night. The bike rides by itself! Silently! Don't pedal! At that time, electric bicycles were still a rarity in our city, and often overtaken cycling colleagues followed me with perplexed glances. The lack of a garage prevented me from creating a homemade car, because even a bicycle with an electric motor took up a significant place in the corridor. And only after moving out of town, to a private house, where there was a place to turn around, I began to think in detail - how exactly to assemble the buggy with my own hands.

So what to build?

Collect buggy do it yourself from the used products of the sovavtoprom?

Or build four-wheeled velomobile, by installing a motor of the Soviet D6 type there

Or can collect Cyclecar? A small little car on moped wheels with an engine from a walk-behind tractor?

Or else it will be trike with a streamlined aluminum body, a powerful electric motor and a bunch of lithium batteries?

I thought for a long time. All options had their pros and cons:

Finding Oka and using a grinder and a sledgehammer to unscrew the stuck bolts, and then constantly fiddle with the engine did not really want.
The velomobile would be flimsy for country roads, the cyclic car did not have a suspension and a gearbox.
The electric ride turned out to be too expensive and tied to an outlet.

But I had to start somewhere. You need to know in advance what the future homemade product will be for. This is either a walking option for trips around the neighborhood, or an au pair - a mini tractor, or maybe a buggy assembled with your own hands will be used as a sports equipment - to drive along an intersection.
Despite the presence of a vegetable garden and the unequivocal hints of my wife and mother-in-law, I still needed a walking car that would not give up in front of forest paths, mud and puddles. Of course, the buggy should be equipped with suspension, reliable steering and headlights.

Buying an engine - step 1 to a DIY buggy

I started by buying an engine. I didn’t need high speed, therefore, I didn’t need a powerful motor. The choice was between moped engines and stationary motors from motoblocks.

In favor of the former - the presence of a gearbox, generator, electric starter and clutch, and the latter were distinguished by high traction at low speeds, the presence of a gas tank and a long service life.

Moped engine.

Stationary motor from a walk-behind tractor

I opted for the Lifan 168 engine with 5.5 horsepower. It was also equipped with a generator and an electric starter, and unlike moped engines, it did not require a separate purchase of a muffler, a tank and other small things.

As a gearbox - an absolutely necessary thing for any car, I purchased a Dnepr motorcycle gearbox. Of course, I had to tinker a little with her, change the oil and oil seals.

Buying wheels is the second step to DIY buggy assembly

With wheels, too, there was a flour of choice. Mopeds did not fit, because they did not hold lateral loads well, I did not take car wheels because of the cost and weight, wheels from wheelbarrows could not withstand loads. As a result, I bought wheels from a walk-behind tractor.

Well, and a bunch of different small things. Chains, sprockets, a voltage regulator for a generator, shock absorbers, bearings, bolts and nuts, a stainless steel pipe for the rear axle, a brake disc from a scooter and a machine from it.

We buy a welding machine and learn how to cook iron

At the same time, they bought an inexpensive welding inverter, Resanta 140., a pack of electrodes, a mask and gaiters. Having ruined several meters of scrap metal and spent half of the electrodes, I more or less learned how to cook.

At first, I decided to do the clutch the same way as on walk-behind tractors - a belt with a pressure roller. Well, the steering is from Oka's car. It took me about 25,000 rubles for everything. Well, it began. I was too lazy to make even a simple sketch, not to mention the drawings. For which he later paid with time, metal and money. Something had to be adjusted, cut, welded.

The frame was shortened, the shock absorbers were swapped, the steering and suspension were redesigned.

And the part that connects the input shaft of the gearbox and the flywheel, I generally found when disassembling the shed. Finally the frame was welded and the engine and gearbox secured. The very first running test of a self-assembled buggy passed even without a steering control. I installed the front wheels on the axle shafts in the holes of the front suspension arms, put in reverse gear, started the engine and pulled the tension roller with my hand. The car has gone !!!

The device of my buggy

In general, the construction is very simple. Frame made of shaped steel pipes of various cross-sections. The front wheels from the walk-behind tractor are connected to the hubs from the moped by three bolts. The bearings were replaced in the hubs, 6202 were installed under the 15 mm axle. I used the bolts of the front wheel of the Voskhod motorcycle as the axles of the front wheel. The steering knuckles are home-made, made from a 40 mm angle, as a kingpin bolt M 16, which rotates in a choke nut, which in turn is turned and pressed into the pipe.

Castor, Ackermann's corner are set by eye. The front axle beam is connected to the frame by jet rods. The shock absorbers are attached to the frame and beam with welded corners.

Steering is from Oka's car. Tie rods and shaft were shortened.

Self-made pedals - gas, brake and clutch (will be removed as unnecessary). Cable drive for gas and hydraulic brakes. The rear axle is a hollow steel tube with a diameter of 30 mm. The wheel hubs from the walk-behind tractor are fixed on it. A brake disc and a driven gear are attached to the hubs with M 10 bolts. Chain drive, motorcycle chain 428 step. A centrifugal clutch is installed on the engine, a 420 chain goes from it to a driven sprocket located on the input shaft of the gearbox. Gear ratios - Engine - gearbox 3.6, gearbox - axle - 3.2, plus four gears.

Wheels 4.00-10 with developed lugs. The exhaust pipe of the muffler has been lengthened, the engine has become quieter.

How to make a buggy with your own hands. Description of the structure

Now a home-made car drives, causing surprise and smiles of passers-by. Of course, he is not allowed to drive on public roads. The project is not finished, it is necessary to improve the gearshift drive, install a protective frame, more comfortable seats, lighting equipment with a battery. But on the paths and country paths, my homemade product travels quite well. Thanks to the gearbox, you can crawl at minimum speed in mud or accelerate to 30 kilometers per hour on a flat road. And the pleasure of walking, the delight of his son, who called the homemade product Dynamite, the consciousness that he was able to assemble the car himself, is worth both the money and the time spent !!!

A homemade buggy is one of the best options to teach your growing child to drive, instill a love of technology from an early age. The design of the presented buggy is simple and reliable, as well as quite budgetary. Step-by-step photos of the assembly are attached. This buggy has a petrol engine from the "Sadko" walk-behind tractor with a capacity of 6.5 l / s located in the rear of the car; for the internal combustion engine, a separate frame is welded from a pipe and a profile, which is attached to the main frame. The torque from the engine is transmitted to the gearbox, and from it through the chain drive to the driven star of the rear axle driving the wheel.

The frame of the buggy is welded from a 22 x 1.5 mm pipe; a pipe bender was used to shape the parts into the desired shape. The suspension is made in an interesting way, namely the axle shafts sit rigidly on the frame, but the half-frame with the engine has two twin shock absorbers from the scooter. The front suspension is also on the shock absorbers from the scooter, the homemade steering is the same as on the karts. Rear wheels from the domestic motor scooter "Tulitsa", front motor scooter.

There is enough engine power with a margin to ride a teenager, even adults are not averse to riding a buggy)

And so, let's look at the design features of the machine.

Materials (edit)

Gasoline internal combustion engine from the "Sadko" walk-behind tractor
reducer
front wheels from the scooter
rear wheels motor scooter "Tulitsa"
pipe 22x1.5 mm
driven sprocket from motorcycle
rear axle
insert bearings
shock absorbers 4 pcs

Instruments

welding machine
drill
pipe bender
LBM (Bulgarian)
set of wrenches
measuring and locksmith tools
skillful hands and a bright head

Step-by-step photos of assembling a buggy with your own hands.
The rear axle of the buggy is made of a bored semi-axle from a ZIL car, a home-made differential is installed, brake discs, a driven star from a motorcycle and support bearings that are actually attached to the frame holding the axle in a given position.
The front wheels are borrowed from the scooter, and the rear wheels from the domestic motor scooter "Tulitsa"
PLEASE PLEASE ATTENTION! The engine is installed on a separate semi-frame, which is attached to the buggy with levers, and in the upper part there are two shock absorbers from the scooter, thus a pendulum suspension with a rear axle rigidly sitting on the frame is obtained (see photo below)

The steering is homemade made on the principle of a kart.
Rear wheel motor scooter
Front scooter
Internal combustion engine petrol 6.5 l / s "Sadko" is mainly installed on walk-behind tractors and other garden equipment.

Pulley 3 strands
Homemade muffler
The gearbox transmits torque to the rear axle through a chain drive and a sprocket from the motorcycle.
Once again, ATTENTION! Consider how the rear suspension works.

During the tests, the shortcomings of this suspension design were identified and it was decided to convert it to an independent one for each wheel and axle shafts. Here's what came of it ..
As you can see, the A-arms are installed.
Front suspension.
Differential and axle shafts.

Disc brakes.

Here is the author's buggy, the design is quite simple, apart from the fact that the frame will require a pipe passed through a pipe bender. If you have thoughts on simplifying the manufacture of the frame, then write a comment (constructive criticism is encouraged)