Steering repair and maintenance. Car steering maintenance Maintenance and repair of steering

Encyclopedia of a novice driver Khannikov Alexander Alexandrovich

Maintenance steering

The scope of work during the maintenance of steering mechanisms (Fig. 27) is determined by the type of maintenance.

Steering malfunctions affect the vehicle's handling and, consequently, traffic safety. These include: increased idle, stiff steering wheel, steering knocks, oil leakage from the crankcase, poor vehicle stability, self-excited angular oscillation of the front wheels.

Rice. 27. steering mechanism

Causes of increased idle move the following: loosening of the steering gear bolts (for worm type steering gears only), nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods; increase in clearances in ball joints, front wheel hub bearings, in engagement of a roller with a worm (for steering gears only rack type), between the pendulum arm axis and the bushings, in the worm bearings, between the rail stop and the nut, play in the rivet joint.

With tight rotation of the steering wheel, the main reasons are: deformation of the steering gear; incorrect setting of the angles of the front wheels; violation of the gap in the meshing of the roller with the worm (for steering mechanisms only of the worm type); tightening the adjusting nut of the axis of the pendulum lever (for steering gears only of the worm type); lack of oil in the crankcase of the steering mechanism; damage to the parts of the ball joints, the bearing of the upper support of the strut, the support sleeve or the rack stop (for rack-and-pinion steering mechanisms only), parts of the telescopic suspension strut; low pressure in the tires of the front wheels.

The reason for knocks in the steering is: an increase in the gaps in the front wheel bearings, between the pendulum lever axis and the bushings; in the engagement of the roller with the worm or in the bearings of the worm (for steering mechanisms only of the worm type), in the ball joints of the steering rods, between the rack stop and the nut (for the steering mechanisms of the rack and pinion type only); in loosening the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods, the bolts of the steering mechanism or the bracket of the pendulum lever (for worm-type steering gears), the nuts of the ball pins of the rotary levers, the bolt of the lower flange of the elastic coupling on the pinion shaft (for rack-and-pinion steering gears only); in loosening the adjusting nut of the pendulum arm axle.

The main reasons for poor vehicle stability can be: violation of the angle of the front wheels; an increase in clearances in the front wheel bearings, in the ball joints of the steering rods, in the engagement of the roller and the worm (for steering mechanisms only of the worm type); loosening the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods, the fastening of the steering gear housing or the swing arm bracket (for worm-type steering gears only); deformation of steering knuckles or suspension arms.

The causes of oil leakage from the crankcase are: wear of the oil seals of the steering arm or worm shaft (for steering mechanisms only of the worm type); damage to seals; loosening of the bolts securing the steering housing cover.

The main causes of self-excited angular oscillation of the front wheels are: loosening of the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods, the bolts of the steering mechanism or the swing arm bracket; in violation of the gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm.

For the smooth operation of the steering mechanism, it is necessary to: inspect the attachment points, check for lubricant leakage in the gearbox, check the play and resistance in the steering wheel. After the first 2-3 thousand km of run, and then every 10-15 thousand km, a general check of the steering should be carried out, which consists in checking the fastening of the crankcase of the steering gear and steering wheel, clearances in rubber-metal and ball joints of steering rods, tightening fastenings of steering rods to the rail, various jamming, noises and knocks, the condition of protective covers of the steering mechanism and ball joints of steering rods. After 60 thousand kilometers or in the event of oil leakage, the oil level in the crankcase of the worm-type steering mechanism should be checked, and after five years of operation of the vehicle and with each repair of the steering gear, the lubricant should be changed. To drain the oil from the worm gear steering gearbox, loosen the lower gearbox cover or worm bearing lock nut. After draining into the crankcase of the worm-type steering mechanisms, oil is poured.

When servicing power steering, check and adjust the drive belts, check the fluid level in the power steering reservoir, check for leaks, the hydraulic system, and the steering wheel force.

Belts are checked for cracks, delamination, wear and oiling, and if these defects are present, they are replaced. After 30 thousand kilometers, it is necessary to check and, if necessary, adjust the tension of the power steering pump drive belt.

Deflection is checked in the middle upper part of the pump drive. It should not exceed 7–10 mm, depending on the design. If necessary, the tension is produced by moving the pump housing.

The fluid level in the reservoir is checked at idle engine. As a working fluid for steering with power steering, low viscosity oil is usually used. The fluid level is determined by the rod installed in the reservoir of the hydraulic booster, or by the marks in the reservoir. The HOT scale corresponds to liquid temperatures from 50 to 80 °C, and the GOLD scale corresponds to temperatures from 0 to 30 °C.

After 30 thousand km, it is necessary to check the hoses for leaks, cracks, loose fastenings, destruction, etc. After carrying out an external check, start the engine and maintain the crankshaft speed between the minimum and 1000 rpm. The engine and steering fluid warm up to 60–80 °C. The operating temperature is reached when the engine is running in idle mode with the steering wheel turned for 2 minutes or after 10 km of run. The steering wheel is turned several times from lock to lock. Holding it in each of the extreme positions for 5 s, check for fluid leaks. During the test, hold wheel in the extreme position for more than 15 s is impossible.

Before starting to check the hydraulic system, check the tension of the pump drive belt, the drive pulley and the air pressure in the tires. A pressure gauge with a tap is connected to the hydraulic system between the pump and the drive, after which the system is pumped to remove air. Then the engine is started and the temperature of the working fluid is brought to 60–80 °C. The engine warms up with the valve fully open, warming up when closed faucet may lead to an increase in temperature. By turning the steering wheel all the way to the left and right with the engine running at a crankshaft speed of 1,000 rpm, the pressure developed by the power steering pump is determined.

If the pressure is less than 78–84 cm 2, the valve is slowly closed for 15 s and the pressure is checked again. An increase in pressure indicates the correct operation of the pump and a malfunction of the steering mechanism, low pressure with a closed tap indicates a malfunction of the pump. An increase in pressure in the system during checks indicates a malfunction of the pump safety valve. After verification hydraulic system Disconnect the pressure gauge and top up if necessary. working fluid, after which air is removed from the system.

To check the effort of turning the steering wheel, the car is placed on a flat, dry surface, having braked it with a parking brake, the tire pressure is brought to normal. Start the engine, warm up working mixture up to 60–80 °C. Using a dynamometer, measure the force of turning the steering wheel after turning it 360 ° C from the neutral position. One effort should be no more than 4. If the effort is higher than this value, check the rack shear force (for rack and pinion steering). To do this, disconnect the lower hinge of the steering shaft from the steering mechanism and the steering rods from the steering knuckles.

Start the engine and warm up the working fluid of the hydraulic system to operating temperature. Having attached a dynamometer to the steering rod, slowly shift it from the neutral position by 11.5 mm in both directions. The average rack shear force is 15.5–24.5. If the rack shear force is not within the specified limits, the steering gear must be repaired; with normal shear, the steering column should be checked.

General check technical condition steering must be made according to the total amount of play and the effort required to turn the steering wheel. If necessary, or for control, perform a general steering check using special equipment. If the technical condition of the steering is unsatisfactory, element-wise verification is required, which is carried out by direct inspection and load testing.

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The scope of work in the maintenance of steering mechanisms is planned and is determined by the type of maintenance.

During daily maintenance, check the free play of the steering wheel, the condition of the limiters maximum angles turning the steered wheels and mounting the bipod. The clearance in the hydraulic booster joints and steering rods, the operation of the steering and hydraulic booster are checked with the engine running.

At TO-1, in addition to work on the ETO, the fastening and cottering of the bipod nuts, ball pins, swivel pin levers are checked; condition of pivots and lock washers, nuts; free play of the steering wheel and steering rod joints; tightening nuts, wedges cardan shaft steering; the tightness of the power steering system and the level of lubricant in the power steering reservoir, top it up if necessary.

With TO-2, in addition to work on TO-1, they check the installation angles of the front wheels and, if necessary, adjust them; steering clearances, steering rod joints and pivot joints; fastening of wedges of pivots, crankcase of the steering mechanism, steering column and steering wheel; the condition of the pivots of the steering knuckles and thrust bearings; fastening and tightness of components and parts of the power steering; condition and fastening of the propeller shaft of the steering.

During seasonal maintenance, in addition to the TO-2 work, they perform seasonal replacement lubricant.

External control of the technical condition of steering parts is carried out by inspection and testing. Inspection is carried out above the inspection pit, if access to the parts from above is impossible.

The control of the steering wheel and column mounting is carried out by applying alternating forces in all directions. At the same time, axial movement or swing of the steering wheel, columns, knocking in the steering units is not allowed.

The fastening of the crankcase of the steering gear, the levers of the pivot pins is checked by swinging the steering wheel around the neutral position by 40--50 ° in each direction.

The condition of the steering gear and the reliability of the fastening of the connections are checked by applying an alternating load directly to the drive parts.

The operation of the turn limiters is evaluated visually when the steered wheels are turned all the way in each direction.

The tightness of the connections of the power steering system is controlled when the engine is running by holding the steering wheel in the extreme positions, as well as with the steering wheel in the free position, while leakage of lubricant is unacceptable. Spontaneous rotation of the steering wheel with power steering from the neutral position to the extreme ones is not allowed.

Removing the steering. Disconnect wires from battery and remove the horn switch cover using a screwdriver.

Remove steering wheel. Remove both halves of steering shaft trim.

Remove the instrument panel and disconnect the three-lever switch connectors from the cable harness connectors.

Disconnect the wires from the ignition switch terminals, unscrew the fastening screws and sinking the lock retainer, remove the ignition switch. Loosen the clamp securing the turn signal, headlight and wiper switch housing and remove it.

Turn away a bolt of fastening of the lower end of an intermediate shaft to a shaft of a worm of the steering mechanism.

Rice. 6 -3. Details of the steering gear: 1 -- steering gear housing; 2 -- shaft seal; 3 -- intermediate shaft; 4 -- top shaft; 5 -- fixing plate of the front part of the bracket; 6 -- an arm of fastening of a shaft of a steering; 7 - the upper part of the facing casing; 8 -- bearing sleeve; 9 -- bearing; 10 -- steering wheel; 11 - the lower part of the facing casing; 12 -- bracket mounting details

Turn away bolts of fastening of an arm 6 (fig. 6-3) and remove a shaft of a steering with an arm.

Unscrew the nuts securing the ball pins of the side and middle rods to the bipod, and then press the ball pins out of the holes in the bipod with a puller A.47035. Remove the steering gear housing, having previously unscrewed the bolts of its fastening to the body side member. Loosen the screws securing the steering shaft seal and remove it.

Steering control installation. Having fixed the sealant 2 on the bulkhead shield (see Fig. 6-3), install the steering gear housing on the side member, without fully tightening the nuts of the crankcase fastening bolts.

Rice. 6 -four. Installation of the steering mechanism on the car: 1 - bolts of fastening of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 2 -- coupling bolt of the lower end of the intermediate shaft; 3 -- bracket mounting bolts; 4 -- an arm of a shaft of a steering; 27.5 mm - distance from the center of the bipod hole to the bearing surface of the steering gear case with the bipod in the middle position

Use a special device to orient the crankcase so that the angle a (Fig. 6-4) does not exceed 32°, and the gap between the shaft and the brake pedal is at least 5 mm. Then fully tighten the crankcase bolt nuts.

Rice. 6 -2. Section of the crankcase of the steering mechanism: 1 - plate of the adjusting screw of the bipod shaft; 2 -- adjusting screw of the bipod shaft; 3 -- adjusting screw nut; 4 - oil filler plug; 5 - cover of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 6 - worm; 7 -- steering gear housing; 8 - bipod; 9 -- nut for fastening the bipod to the shaft; 10 -- spring washer; 11 -- bipod shaft seal; 12 -- bipod shaft sleeve; 13 -- bipod shaft; 14 -- bipod shaft roller; 15 - worm shaft; 16 -- upper ball bearing; 17 -- lower ball bearing; 18 -- shims; 19 -- bottom cover of the worm bearing; 20 -- roller axis; 21 -- ball bearing roller; 22 - worm shaft seal; B, C - labels

Set the bipod of the steering mechanism to the middle position, for which align the marks on the crankcase and on the worm shaft (see Fig. 6-2).

Temporarily install the wheel on the shaft so that the spokes are horizontal and in this position connect the universal joint yoke of the intermediate steering shaft to the worm shaft, then attach the steering shaft bracket to the body.

Remove the steering wheel and fit the turn signal, headlight and wiper switch onto the steering shaft.

Install the steering wheel on the shaft in its original position and, pressing the steering wheel, as shown by the arrows in fig. 6-4, check that there is no radial movement of the shaft. For radial movement, replace the upper steering shaft or its bearings.

Check that the steering wheel rotates smoothly and freely in both directions, then tighten the steering wheel nut and tighten it at three points. Slide the turn signal, headlight and wiper switch housing towards the steering wheel until it stops and tighten the switch mounting clamp.

Connect the wires to the ignition switch terminals and screw the switch to the steering shaft bracket.

Connect the turn signal, headlight and wiper switch connectors to the vehicle harness connectors.

Place the two halves of the cladding on the shaft and fasten them with screws. Install the horn switch on the steering wheel.

Install the ball pins of the middle and side left thrust on the bipod and secure them with nuts.

Adjust the toe-in of the front wheels and check the force on the steering wheel, which, when turning the wheels on a smooth plate, should not exceed 196 N (20 kgf) (when measured at the wheel rim).

To mount the assembly, position the steering wheel spokes horizontally and connect the worm shaft to the lower end of the intermediate steering shaft.

Incompletely tighten the bracket mounting bolts, turn the steering wheel several times in both directions, then tighten the bracket mounting bolts.

Steering gear disassembly. Drain the oil from the steering box. Attach the crankcase to bracket A.74076/R with support A.74076/1.

Rice. 6 -5. Removing the bipod: 1 - puller A.47043; 2 - bipod shaft; 3 - bipod; 4 -- bracket А.74076/R

Rice. 6

Unscrew the nut fastening the steering arm 2 (Fig. 6-6) and having removed the spring washer, remove the bipod with a puller А.47043 (Fig. 6-5). Having unscrewed the mounting bolts, remove the cover 12 (see Fig. 6-6) of the steering gear housing together with the adjusting screw 8, adjusting plate 9, lock washer 10 and locknut. Remove the shaft 7 of the bipod assembly with the roller from the crankcase 1 of the steering mechanism.

Loosen the fastening bolts, remove the cover 3 of the worm shaft thrust bearing together with the shims 4.

With the shaft 11 of the worm, push the ring 5 of the bearing out of the crankcase and remove the shaft together with the separators 6 of the bearings. Remove the worm shaft seal 15 and the bipod shaft seal 16.

Rice. 6 --7. Removing the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm using mandrel 67.7853.9541: 1 -- steering gear housing; 2 - the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm; 3 -- mandrel 67.7853.9541

Using mandrel 67.7853.9541, press out the outer ring of the upper bearing (Fig. 6--7.).

Assemble the steering mechanism on the bracket A.74076/R in the reverse order of disassembly.

Press the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm with mandrel 67.7853.9541, rearrange the nozzle on the handle of the mandrel with the reverse side.

Rice. 6 -eight. Installation of the steering gear worm: 1 - bearing cover; 2 - shims; 3 - worm

Rice. 6 -9. Control of the moment of friction of the worm with a dynamometer: 1 - worm; 2 -- head A.95697/5; 3 -- dynamometer 02.7812.9501; 4 - stand bracket for repairing the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 5 -- steering gear case

After installing the worm in the crankcase of the steering mechanism and fixing the bottom cover, check with a dynamometer 02.7812.9501 with a head A. A. 95697 / 5 (see Fig. 6-9) the friction moment of the worm shaft; it should be in the range of 19.6-49 N cm (2-5 kgf cm). If the moment turns out to be less than specified, reduce the thickness of the shims 2 (Fig. 6-8), if more - increase.

After installing the bipod shaft, check the absence of play in the engagement of the roller with the worm in the positions of the worm shaft turned to the right and left by 30 ° from the neutral position of the bipod. Eliminate any gap in the engagement with the adjusting screw 2 cm (Fig. 6-2) and tighten the lock nut 3.

After adjusting the gap in the engagement of the roller and the worm, check the friction moment of the worm shaft with a dynamometer, which should be equal to 68.6-88.2 N cm (7-9 kgf cm) when the worm shaft is rotated 30 ° both to the left and to the right from the middle position and should decrease smoothly to 49 N cm (5 kgf cm) when turning from an angle of 30 ° to the stop.

Upon completion of assembly, check the angles of rotation of the bipod from the neutral position, which should be 32 ° 10 "± 1 ° both to the left and to the right until the bipod stops against the bolt heads. Fill the steering gear housing with 0.215 l transmission oil TAD-17i.

Check and repair

Carefully inspect for signs of wear, seizing, dents or scratches on the working surfaces of the roller and worm. Replace worn and damaged parts.

Check the gap between the bushings and the bipod shaft, which should not exceed 0.10 mm. If the gap is greater than specified, then replace the bushings using the A.74105 mandrel.

On the inner surface of the bipod shaft bushings there are spiral grooves that go out only on one side of the bushing. When pressing the bushings, position them so that their ends with groove outlets are inside the crankcase opening, and the groove outlets are located opposite each other. The ends of the bushings should be buried in the crankcase hole by 1.5 mm.

Lubricate new bushings with transmission oil before pressing.

After pressing into the crankcase, finish the bushings with a reamer A.90336 to a size of 28.698-28.720 mm. The mounting gap between the bipod shaft and bushings should be within 0.008-0.051 mm.

Check the ease of rotation of the bipod shaft roller on the ball bearing.

The ball bearings of the worm and roller must rotate freely, without sticking, and there must be no wear and damage on the surface of the rings and balls.

Check the axial clearance between the head of the adjusting screw 8 (see Fig. 6-6) and the groove of the bipod shaft 7. The clearance should not exceed 0.05 mm. If it is larger, replace the adjusting plate 9 with a thicker one.

Rice. 6 -6. Details of the crankcase of the steering mechanism: 1 - crankcase; 2 - bipod; 3 -- lower crankcase cover; 4 - shims; 5 - the outer ring of the worm shaft bearing; 6 - separator with balls; 7 - bipod shaft; 8 -- adjusting screw; 9 -- adjusting plate; 10 -- lock washer; 11 - worm shaft; 12 -- top cover crankcase; 13 -- sealing gasket; 14 -- bipod shaft sleeve; 15 - worm shaft seal; 16 -- bipod shaft seal


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Current service



Steering Maintenance

Every day before leaving the line, you need to check the operation of the steering. At a vehicle speed of 3-6 km/h, turn the wheels from one extreme position to the other in both directions; the wheels should turn smoothly, without jerks, and the force applied to the steering wheel should not be large.

Check the tightness of the connections of the oil lines and hoses and eliminate the oil leaks that have appeared. Inspect the fastenings of the main components and elements of the steering: steering mechanism, hydraulic booster, levers, rods and steering column; special attention should be paid to the condition of the levers and rods.

Check the oil level in the steering mechanism: it should be 35-40 mm below the outer edge of the filler hole; check with a wrench the fastening of the steering mechanism to the frame, cardan shafts on the shafts, inspect the locking of the nuts for fastening the steering arm, swing arms and ball pins; lubricate the ball joint of the distributor through the grease fitting on the hydraulic booster distributor housing.



After 1000 hours (2 times a year when the operating season changes) - replace the oil in the steering mechanism: the used oil is drained through drainer and pour 2.8 liters of fresh oil through the filler.

After 2000 hours (40,000 km of run, but at least once a year), the grease in the steering rod and hydraulic booster joints is replaced. In this case, you need to carefully inspect the parts and replace worn ones. When performing this operation, it is necessary to remove the traction and hydraulic booster from the car, disassemble the hinges and wash all parts in kerosene or diesel fuel. During assembly, the hinge cavity and the cavity under the seal are filled with fresh grease and the clearance in the hinge joint is adjusted.

When performing work related to the replacement of grease in ball joints, a violation of the position of the steering elements is possible, therefore, after performing this operation, you should check the free play of the steering wheel, toe-in and limit angles of rotation of the steered wheels.

During assembly, the ball bearings of the steering column are filled with CIATIM-201 grease. The lubricant should be replaced every time the dispenser is disassembled.

Adjustment of gaps in the hinges of the rods, hydraulic booster and distributor. To adjust the gap in ball joint The distributor must be disconnected from the steering rod hydraulic booster and a tip with a hinge. Remove the lock plate (see Fig. 33) from the slot of the nut, applying the necessary force, since the plate is centered. Holding the glass from rotation with a screwdriver, tighten the nut with a special wrench until it stops, then unscrew it until the slots in the nut coincide with the slots in the glass for the first time and lock the nut with a plate. Loosen the nut and plate.

Check and adjust steering wheel free play. The operation is carried out with the engine running, while the car must be braked by the service and parking brakes.

The sequence of the operation: hang the front axle, start the engine and set the wheels in a position corresponding to the movement of the car in a straight line; fix the backlash meter scale on the steering column, and the arrow on the steering wheel rim; turn the steering wheel to the left until the backlash is fully selected - until the steered wheels of the car start turning, however, their position should not change; set the arrow of the backlash meter against the zero mark on the scale; steering wheel turn in right side before the steered wheels turn, i.e., until the clearances in all joints are fully selected, and by the relative position of the arrow and the backlash meter scale, determine the free play (angle of free rotation) of the steering wheel in degrees.

The angle of free rotation of the steering wheel with the hydraulic booster running should not exceed 25 °. If the angle is greater than 25°, it is necessary to tighten the fastenings of the steering gear, pitman arm, swing arms, cardan forks, steering wheel and column. If the free play of the steering wheel has not decreased after this, it is necessary to check the clearances in the hinges. This check is carried out visually: during a sharp rotation of the steering wheel, the ball pins should not move in the hinges, and there should be no noticeable play in the spline connection of the driveshaft and cardan shafts.

In the steering mechanism, the clearances in the tapered roller bearings and in the rack and pinion gearing are adjusted by the nut - rail - sector.

To adjust these gaps, the steering gear must be removed from the car and installed on a special stand.

Before adjusting the clearances in roller bearings, it is necessary to unscrew the cap (see Fig. 32) and the lock nut and unscrew the adjusting screw by 1.5 turns (turn counterclockwise) - the rack is engaged - the sector will increase the gap and decrease the resistance to the relative movement of the rack nut and sector when turning the screw.

The rack nut is installed in the steering mechanism in the middle position (full movement of the rack nut on the screw between the bearings corresponds to six turns of the screw). The adjusting screw is screwed up to the stop and unscrewed approximately 1/4 turn.

Having secured steering arm motionless, in this position check the angular play of the screw on the dial on the stand: the play should not exceed 6°. If the angle is greater than 6 °, adjust the gap in the engagement of the nut - rail and sector with an adjusting screw.

With correctly adjusted clearances in the bearings and rack engagement, the angular play of the screw in the middle position of the rack nut will be 6 ° with the steering arm fixed. If the angular play of the screw is still more than 6°, it is necessary to adjust the end clearance between the screw head and the sector. Then drain the oil from the steering gear. Unscrew the fixing bolts of the cover and, turning the screw clockwise, remove the cover from the sector shaft. Cut off the stopper (welding) in the sector-nut connection, tighten the nut to failure, make a common narrow mark on the sector and the nut and unscrew the nut in the opposite direction by 6 mm along the circumference of the nut thread and lock it in this position with the welding point: end gap in connection sector - the adjusting screw will be equal to 0.1 mm. Fasten the cover in place and adjust the gap in the engagement of the rail nut and sector, as indicated above.

Adjustment of the hydraulic booster relief valve. The valve is factory set and sealed.

If it is still necessary to adjust it, then this operation is performed on a special stand. You can also adjust the valve on a loaded car: connect a pressure gauge (through a special adapter) to the discharge line from the pump switching machine to the hydraulic booster. After starting the engine, heat the oil in the system to a temperature of 30-35 ° C, and then set a constant engine crankshaft speed of 1600--1700 rpm (for a BelAZ-540 car - 1300-1350 rpm). Turn the steering wheel to the right until the valve is activated - the wheels will stop turning. If the wheels turn and the valve does not work, loosen the valve spring until the oil pressure is 80-85 daN/cm2 when the wheels turn. If the oil temperature has risen to 50” C, adjust the valve to a line pressure of 72-77 daN/cm2.

When performing this operation, the vehicle must be braked with the parking and service brakes, and under rear wheels put special pads. All other adjustment operations are carried out only when the engine is not running.

Typical malfunctions of the steering are: - increased free play of the steering wheel and longitudinal mixing (backlash) of the column shaft due to wear of the parts of the swivel joints of the steering rods and levers, loosening of the fastenings of the steering gear case to the frame, swing arms to the trunnions; - wear of the working pair of the steering gear or conical bearings of the steering shaft; - Knocks and backlashes detected when swaying the posted front wheels of the car, due to wear of the bushings of the pivot pins or pivots; - Difficulty turning the steering wheel due to jamming in the pivots or steering mechanism; - increased noise during the operation of the hydraulic booster pump, caused by insufficient level oil in the pump reservoir, weak, pump belt tension, air in the system; - lack of effort when turning at various speeds of the engine crankshaft due to jamming of the pump spool, unscrewing the seat of the pump safety valve, clogging of the drain or discharge lines of the hydraulic booster.

In order to ensure the safety of the vehicle, it is necessary to check the condition of the steering during maintenance of all types. Check by inspection the fastening of the parts of the swivel joints of the steering rods and levers, the steering arm, the steering gear housing, the cardan shaft of the steering, the stepladder of the steering column bracket, the free play and the longitudinal play of the steering column shaft.

It is necessary to lubricate the swivel joints of the rods, levers, the steering cardan shaft, as well as the steering mechanism in a timely manner with appropriate lubricants and make the necessary adjustments. Before adjusting the steering, check the gaps (backlashes) in the swivel joints of the longitudinal and transverse steering rods, independent suspension, axial play of the steering shaft, gaps in the engagement of the working pair of the steering mechanism, etc.

The clearances in the swivel joints of the steering rods are checked by sharply rocking the steering wheel in both directions. Significant movement of the longitudinal steering rod relative to the fingers will indicate the need to eliminate play in the pivot joints of the rods. To do this, unpin the adjusting plug at the end of the rod, wrap the plug with a special spatula until it stops and unscrew it so that the slot in the plug coincides with the hole for the cotter pin, and then cotter. In the same way, play is eliminated in another swivel of the thrust.

Rice. 108. Luftomer and device for measuring the pressure of the hydraulic booster pump:
a - placement of a backlash meter on the steering wheel when measuring the wheel play; 1 - pointer; 2 - scale; 3 – dynamometer; b - a device for measuring the pressure of the power steering pump: 1 - reservoir; 2 - manometer; 3 - valve; 4 - power steering

The axial play of the steering column shaft occurs as a result of wear of the tapered bearings of the steering gear worm. To check the backlash, hang the front wheels, put them in the position of the rectilinear movement of the car, turn the steering wheel to the left for one turn and fix it in this position, then cover the steering column with your left hand and bring your thumb to the joint between the lower part of the steering wheel hub and steering column cover; swinging the front wheels in different directions, check the axial play of the steering column shaft by touch; feeling the thumb of the axial play will indicate the need to adjust the bearings of the steering mechanism.

To check the gap in the engagement of the working pair of the steering mechanism, the plug of the swivel of the longitudinal link is unscrewed and the link is removed from the ball pin of the steering arm at the position of the front wheels corresponding to the rectilinear movement of the vehicle, then the force necessary to rotate the steering wheel is measured using a backlash meter with a dynamometer.

For vehicles with a hydraulic booster built into the steering mechanism (KamAE-5320, ZIL-130 and their modification), the steering play is determined only when the engine is running at low speeds in idling mode. The correct operation of the hydraulic booster of these vehicles is ensured if its pump develops a pressure of at least 6 MPa.

If the readings of the dynamometer or control pressure gauge do not correspond to the specified standards, then the steering should be adjusted.

Typical failures and malfunctions of the steering are: loosening of the steering gear housing, increased wear parts of the steering mechanism, ball joints of rods and levers, loosening of the steering wheel and steering column, chipping of the worm gear and incorrect adjustment(overtightening of parts) of the steering gear.

Power steering malfunctions are: insufficient or too high level oil in the pump reservoir, presence of air (foam in the oil reservoir) or water in the system, pump malfunction, increased oil leakage in the steering gear, clogged filters, malfunctioning of the bypass or relief valve of the pump (periodic freezing, sticking, turning off the seat), insufficient tension pump drive belt.

These malfunctions lead to an increase in the free play (play) of the steering wheel, the effort to turn the steering wheel rim when turning, knocks in the steering mechanism, oil from the pump breather (power steering wheel), etc. Jamming or jamming of the steering mechanism is possible.

The force applied to the steering wheel rim with the wheels suspended should be within the limits for trucks of 30-40 N, for cars - 7-12 N. The fastening and condition of the steering linkages are also checked. Backlash is determined using a backlash dynamometer (Fig. 30.26), fixed to the steering wheel rim with clamps 1. The angular movement of the wheel is determined under the action of a force of 10 N applied to the dynamometer 2. On vehicles with hydraulic power steering, backlash is measured with the engine running.

Definition total backlash does not give an idea of ​​what interface or node caused its increase, if you do not first check and tighten the steering gear housing, steering arm; eliminate gaps in the steering rod joints; Check tire pressure and wheel bearing adjustment.

When EO, the tightness of the hydraulic booster connections is checked. Make sure there is no fluid leakage. Tighten fasteners if necessary. Check the condition of the steering drive by external inspection, making sure that there are cotter pins, nuts of the swivel pins and that the rods are not bent.

With TO-1, the steering mechanism is controlled by a dynamometer-backlash meter in a straight-line position of the vehicle track, the efforts of turning the steering wheel are controlled with the front wheels hung out.

They check and, if necessary, eliminate the play in the swivel joints of the steering rods. It is more convenient to check the play together: one sharply turns the steering wheel to the right and left, and the other looks at the movement of the swivel joint. If one part of the joint moves and the other is stationary, then there is play; if both parts move at the same time, then there is no play.

You can also determine the play in the swivel joints by moving the rod with your hands in the longitudinal direction. If, for example, the longitudinal rod moves along with the bipod, then there is no play in the articulated joint. To adjust the backlash, it is necessary to unpin the plug and tighten it with a special wrench until noticeable resistance, and then unscrew the plug to the first position at which it can be cottered.

Rie. 30.26. Dynamometer-backlash meter

They check the splint of the nuts of the ball pins by inspection and, having removed the cover of the hydraulic booster reservoir, check the oil level in it and the oil level in the steering gear housing, top it up if necessary,

Check and, if necessary, adjust the tension of the power steering pump drive belt (deflection under a force of 40 N should be no more than 8-14 mm).

At TO-2, the steering wheel fastening is checked. Slightly move the steering wheel along the shaft or shake it in the direction perpendicular to the plane of rotation of the wheel. If loosening is detected, remove the signal button and tighten the wheel nut on the steering shaft with a spanner wrench,

The axial clearance in the roller bearings of the steering gear worm is usually adjusted by gaskets located under the bottom cover of the steering gear housing.

The steering gear of a ZIL-130 car with a hydraulic booster is adjusted according to the results of measurements of efforts with a spring dynamometer on the steering wheel rim in three positions: - in the first position, the steering wheel is turned more than 2 turns from the middle position (at which the car moves in a straight line); in this case, the force should not exceed 5.5-13.5 N; - in the second position, they measure and note the value of the force when turning the wheel 3/4 - 1 turn from the middle position; - in the third, when passing through the middle position, the force should not exceed by 8-12.5 N the value obtained when measuring in the second position and be no more than 29 N.

Start adjusting the steering mechanism according to the results of the third position using the adjusting screw for the axial movement of the bipod shaft. The discrepancy between the values ​​of the forces in the first and second positions is a consequence of wear ball nut or screw. In this case, the adjustment is performed on the steering gear removed from the vehicle.

After adjusting the engagement of the roller and the worm of the steering mechanism, the force required to turn the steering wheel is checked with a dynamometer. This force (when the steering rod is disconnected), measured with a spring dynamometer, should be 7-12 N for cars, 16-22 N for trucks when passing through the middle position of the steering wheel,

With CO, the oil is replaced while washing the crankcase (the tank and filters of the ZIL-130 car's power steering pump) with gasoline in accordance with the season.

To Category: - Routine maintenance

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Education Committee of the Government of St. Petersburg

Malookhtinsky Professional Lyceum

Profession: Auto mechanic

Graduation written work

Topic: "Maintenance and repair of the steering of the car VAZ-2104"

Designed by:

student of group No. 35 Tikhonov V.Yu

Checked by: Mandzyuk O.N.

Introduction

Organization of the workplace of a car mechanic.

Labor protection and fire prevention measures

Purpose and steering device

Steering Diagnostics

Steering Maintenance

Steering repair and adjustment

Applied fixtures and equipment

measuring tool

List of used literature

Introduction

There are many different requirements for a modern passenger car:

1. Passenger car to the requirements of international and Russian standards, providing high security during acceleration, braking, maneuvers and in emergency situations. In addition, a modern truck must have a high passive, post-accident and environmental safety. Based on the foregoing, it must be equipped with an ABS braking system, quality tires, shock absorbers and control system.

2. A passenger car must meet modern international environmental requirements because the problem of environmental pollution is currently in the first place.

3. High demands are placed on a passenger car in terms of economy. The consumption of fuel, lubricants and other consumables should be kept to a minimum, while ensuring high traction and speed properties. The cost of maintenance and spare parts is also of great importance.

4. Such performance indicators, as cross-country ability, maneuverability, controllability, ride smoothness must correspond to the purpose of the car.

5. The car must meet the requirements of modern ergonomics. It should be not only reliable and comfortable, but also convenient. Its conveniences lie in the smoothness of the ride, ease of control, which in turn depends on the body structure, the location of the controls. Also, not in last place in the convenience of the car are its options, namely, climate control, which allows you to create for the driver the most favorable temperature and air humidity, a small power steering cooler, on-board computer, LCD TV, power sunroof, telephone, first-class audio system with subwoofer and other options that provide additional comfort to the user. For maximum comfort the driver must be provided with additional noise insulation.

6. The car must meet the requirements of internal and external informativeness. The design of the instrument panel, devices that provide visibility, handles, control pedals must provide the driver with the information necessary to drive the car in a timely manner. External devices of the car must be visible and provide other road users with all the information about the intention to change the speed or direction of movement.

The requirements for modern passenger cars lead to a more complex design and require greater knowledge, skills and abilities from auto mechanics. The main requirement for modern auto mechanic- be able to think. Unfortunately, according to most indicators, VAZ cars do not meet the requirements for a modern passenger car. But even when servicing such cars, a lot of knowledge is needed and they require a creative attitude to their work, conscientiousness and responsibility from the auto mechanic.

Requirements for the professional training of an auto mechanic

Auto mechanic - must know: safety regulations; device principles of operation of repaired equipment, power plants, aggregates and machines; properties of processed materials, anti-corrosion lubricants and oils; ways to restore worn parts; specifications for testing, adjustment and acceptance of components, mechanisms and equipment after repair; tolerances, fits and accuracy classes; device and methods of using special devices and instrumentation. Knowledge of mathematics and physics is required. Ability to perform disassembly, repair and assembly of components and mechanisms.

If for an auto mechanic repairing a domestic car, ingenuity, ingenuity, resourcefulness, cunning, and sometimes even courage in making decisions are important, then a repairman of foreign cars is expected to have knowledge and strict adherence to high-tech processes, the global rules for their implementation. Therefore, among the requirements for candidates for this vacancy in a dealer company of a foreign automaker, you can find the following: lack of experience in car services for repairing cars manufactured in our country. Many believe that a person who is used to repairing domestic cars on domestic standards with the Russian, or rather? Soviet? approach to the performance of their duties, and even more so without a higher education, will not be able to switch to a qualitatively different level of repair. Employers are tightening the requirements for the education of car mechanics, car painters, tinsmiths and others, also because the degree of preparedness of the directors of car services has increased. Now no one is surprised when candidates of technical sciences become managers of auto technical centers or their deputies. Accordingly, they set a high standard for the initial training of all employees of their enterprises, starting with auto mechanics.

Organizaworkplace of a car mechanic

Maintenance and repair work is carried out at work stations. According to their purpose, posts can be universal and specialized.

At universal posts, all types of technological operations associated with vehicle maintenance and repair. At specialized work posts, work is carried out related to a certain type of repair operations. For example, a specialized post for the repair of an automobile engine. At this post, only work related to the repair of the engine is carried out.

To increase labor productivity and improve the quality of work performed at work stations, all of them are equipped with a wide variety of garage equipment. All equipment is selected based on the purpose of this work post and is conventionally divided into 3 large groups:

1. Technological equipment.

2. Technological equipment.

3. Organizational tooling.

Technological equipment includes various stands and fixtures for maintenance and repair, equipped with measuring and diagnostic instruments, various grips and clamps.

Technological equipment includes all kinds of tools and fixtures, sets of keys, socket heads, pullers, torque arms, etc. By type of work, technological work is divided into cleaning and washing, lifting and transport, lubrication and filling, disassembly and assembly, control diagnostics and specialized.

Organizational equipment includes various auxiliary equipment that increases convenience in work. Organizational equipment includes various types of workbenches, tool carts, stands for equipment, racks and cabinets for storing tool equipment, etc.

Work on the maintenance and repair of the steering of a car is most often carried out at modern service stations at universal work stations. Below is an approximate list of various equipment installed at such work stations.

Technological equipment.

Labor protection and fire prevention measures

Safe working conditions and fire prevention measures

Occupational Safety and Health:

Occupational safety is understood as a system of legislative acts and corresponding measures aimed at maintaining the health and working capacity of workers.

The system of organizational and technical measures and means to prevent industrial injuries is called safety engineering.

The main provisions on labor protection are set out in the Labor Code of the Russian Federation.

In workshops and (in enterprises) at production sites, the heads of workshops and foremen are responsible for labor safety.

1) increased danger represent the operations of removing and installing springs, since significant energy has been accumulated in them. These operations must be carried out on stands or with the help of devices that ensure safe operation.

2) Ethylene glycol antifreeze mixtures - toxic. If they come into contact with the skin, wipe the area dry and wash with soap and water.

3) Do not stay under the vehicle when it is jacked up.

5) To avoid minor injuries to the hands, you need to work with gloves.

6) When under the car, the mechanics must be dressed - a hat and glasses.

7) When servicing the car, you should be guided by the “Safety Rules”.

On the territory of the enterprise, it is necessary to have sanitary facilities - dressing rooms, showers, washrooms.

Natural and artificial lighting of workplaces must be sufficient for the safe performance of work.

BASIC FIRE SAFETY REQUIREMENTS

1. The safety of people must be ensured by: planning and design solutions for evacuation routes in accordance with current building codes and regulations, constant maintenance of evacuation routes in proper condition, ensuring the possibility of safe evacuation of people in the event of a fire or other emergency (Appendix 4).

2. All production, administrative, auxiliary, warehouse, repair premises, as well as parking lots and storage sites for motor vehicles must be provided with primary fire extinguishing equipment (fire extinguishers, fire shields, fire extinguishing installations, etc.), in accordance with the standards (Appendix 5).

3. All premises of the enterprise must be equipped with signs fire safety in accordance with the requirements of GOST 12.4.026-76 "Signal colors and safety signs" and evacuation signs.

4. Working clothes must be washed (dry-cleaned) and repaired in a timely manner in accordance with the established schedule. Work in oiled overalls is prohibited.

5. Tank trucks intended for the transportation of flammable liquids and combustible liquids must be stored in separate one-story buildings or in specially designated for this purpose open areas in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documentation.

6. When loading or unloading flammable goods, the car engine must be turned off.

Production sites must be equipped with the following fire equipment

Carbon dioxide fire extinguisher OU-1

Fire cabinets Fire shields

Purpose and steering devices

Steering - a set of mechanisms that serve to turn the steered wheels, ensures the movement of the car in a given direction.

The main requirements for steering controls are related to ensuring road safety. These requirements should include:

1. The correctness of the kinematics of the turn, which should ensure the turn of the steered wheels at different angles, due to which the movement of the car on the turn should occur without lateral slip and slip.

2. Ease of management.

3. Required gear ratio.

4. High rigidity of parts.

5. Consistency of the kinematics of the steering gear and the suspension guide.

6. The optimal value of the stabilizing moment.

7. Minimum gaps in the joints of parts.

The steering consists of the following mechanisms:

1. Steering gear.

2. Steering gear.

3. Power steering (not on all vehicles).

Steering mechanisms are of the following types:

1. Worm - which are divided into worm-roller and worm-sector

2. Screw - which are divided into screw-lever and screw-rack

3. Gear - which are divided into gear and rack

On the rear drive, screw-roller steering mechanisms are most often used, which are small in size, reliable in operation and easy to maintain. Their efficiency is 0.85 when transferring forces from the steering wheel to the steered wheels and 0.07 - from the steered wheels to the steering wheel. Therefore, the efforts of the driver spent on overcoming friction in the steering mechanism are small.

The steering drive is a system of rods and levers that connects the steered wheels of the car with the steering mechanism. The steering gear serves to transmit power from the steering mechanism to the steered wheels and to ensure that the wheels turn correctly. Used on cars different types steering gears:

1. According to the type of steering linkage, there are - with a rifled steering linkage and a split steering linkage.

2. According to the location of the steering linkage, there are - with a front steering linkage and with a rear steering linkage.

Power steering is not used on VAZ rear-wheel drive vehicles.

On the VAZ-2106 car, safety steering with an intermediate cardan shaft is used.

In steering, a distinction is made between a steering mechanism and a steering gear. Through the steering mechanism, the force is transferred from the driver to the steering gear, and the steering gear transmits the force to the steered wheels.

The steering gear consists of worm gear, steering wheel 40, composite steering shaft and parts of its fastening. The worm gearbox (gear ratio 16.4) is located in an aluminum crankcase 34, which is attached to the left side member of the body with three bolts with self-locking nuts. The two crankcase bolt holes are oval shaped to ensure proper steering gear installation. With this installation, the angle between the worm shaft 58 and the horizontal must not exceed 32°, and the gap between the shaft 58 and the brake pedal must be at least 5 mm.

In the crankcase 34 on two angular contact bearings 57 worm 56 is installed. Bearings do not have inner rings. Their role is played by treadmills made at the ends of the worm. The clearance in the worm bearings is regulated by gaskets 47 installed under the bottom cover. At the outlet of the crankcase, the worm shaft is sealed with an oil seal 59. On the splined part of the worm shaft, an annular groove is made for the coupling bolt of the universal joint yoke. In engagement with the worm is a double-ridged roller 50, which rotates on the axis 48 on a double-row ball bearing 49. The ends of the axis, after being pressed into the shaft hole 62, are riveted using electrical heating, i.e. this connection is one-piece.

Steering. 1. Side rod steering; 2. Bipod; 3. Support washer of a spring of an insert of a spherical finger; 4. Ball pin spring; 5. Ball pin; 6. Ball pin insert; 7. Protective cover of the ball pin; 8. Medium thrust steering gear; 9. Pendulum lever; 10. Side link adjusting clutch; 11. Bottom spherical bearing front suspension; 12. Lower arm front suspension; 13. Right knuckle; 14. The upper arm of the front suspension; 15. The lever of the right rotary fist; 16. Coupling collars of the adjusting coupling; 17. Pendulum arm bracket; 18. Right side member of the body floor; 19. Bushing axis pendulum lever; 20. O-ring sleeve; 21. The axis of the pendulum lever; 22. Upper shaft needle bearing; 23. Pipe bracket for mounting the steering shaft; 24. Upper steering shaft; 25. Wire tip; 26. Signal switch holder; 27. Bottom slip ring; 28. Wheel hub; 29. Lower slip ring holder; 30. Wire from the lower slip ring; 31. Signal switch spring; 32. Horn switch; 33. Oil filler plug; 34. Steering gear housing; 35. Marks for installing the roller (bipod) in the middle position; 36. Intermediate steering shaft; 37. Fixing plate front bracket; 38. Facing casing of the steering shaft; 39. Lever switch wiper and washer; 40. Steering wheel; 41. The lever of the switch of indexes of turn; 42. Headlight switch lever; 43. Bracket for fastening the steering shaft; 44. Steering shaft seal; 45. Left side member of the butt of the body; 46. ​​Lower cover of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 47. Shims; 48. The axis of the roller shaft bipod; 49. Roller ball bearing; 50. Roller; 51. Top cover of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 52. Adjustment screw plate; 53. Lock washer; 54. Locknut; 55. Adjusting screw; 56. Worm; 57. Worm bearings; 58. Worm shaft; 59. Worm shaft seal; 60. Worm shaft bushing; 61. Bipod shaft seal; 62. Bipod shaft;

The bipod shaft with its cylindrical polished part is installed in two bronze bushings 60 and sealed with an oil seal 61 at the outlet of the crankcase. Bipod 2 is mounted on the conical splines of the lower shaft of the bipod in one specific position, when the double spline on the shaft is aligned with the double cavity in the bipod hole.

The gearing of the worm pair is made with a shift of the axes of the roller and the worm by 5.5 mm, which allows you to adjust the backlash-free engagement of the roller with the worm as they wear out. This is ensured by axial displacement of the bipod shaft using the adjusting screw 55. The head of the screw enters the T-shaped cutout of the bipod shaft together with the plate 52, which ensures the desired fit of the screw head. The adjusting screw 55 is screwed into the top cover 51, secured against turning with a washer and tightened with a lock nut. When the adjusting screw is screwed into the cover, the bipod shaft is lowered, and the gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm is selected.

To determine the accuracy of adjusting the clearance in the bearings of the worm and in the engagement of the roller with the worm, a dynamometer is used, which measures the moment of resistance (friction) to turning. In this case, the moment of friction of the worm shaft is first measured without installing the bipod shaft. It should be within 20-50 N-cm (2-5 kgf cm). By selecting the thickness of the shims 47 set desired gap(friction moment) in the worm bearings. Then, after installing the bipod shaft and adjusting the gap in engagement, the friction moment of the worm is checked, which should be equal to 90-120 N-cm (9-12 kgf cm) when the worm shaft is rotated 30 ° both to the left and to the right from the middle position and decreases smoothly up to 70 N-cm (7 kgf-cm) when turning from an angle of 30 ° to the stop.

At the upper end of the crankcase 34 of the steering mechanism and on the shaft 58 of the worm, marks (risks) 35 are made, when combined, the roller 50 is set to the middle position, and the steered wheels ensure the rectilinear movement of the vehicle. In this position, the steering wheel spoke must be horizontal. This indicates the correct connection of the worm shaft with the intermediate shaft.

The parts of the worm gear are lubricated with TAD-17i oil, which is poured through the hole closed with plug 33, filling capacity 0.215 l.

The steering wheel is made of plastic reinforced with a steel frame. In the hub 28 of the steering wheel splines with a double cavity are cut, and on the upper shaft 24 there are double splines, which ensures that the wheel is connected to the shaft in only one position. The steering wheel is attached to the shaft 24 with a nut, which, after tightening, is pierced at one point. From below, a plastic holder 29 of the lower slip ring 27 is attached to the hub 28, along which the switch contact slides. This contact is connected by wires to the relay winding of the horn switch.

The holder 26 of the signal switch is attached to the steering wheel hub with screws. It is isolated from the "mass". The lower contact ring 27 is connected to the wires 30, the tips 25 of which are mounted in the horn switch 32. Springs 31 are installed between the switch 32 and the spoke. When the switch 32 is pressed, the lugs 25 of the wires close the lower slip ring, that is, the winding of the horn relay, to ground. When the switch is released under the action of springs 31, the contacts open.

For the safety of the driver, the steering shaft is made integral. It consists of upper 24 and intermediate 36 shafts with cardan joints. Upper shaft rotates on two needle bearings for 22 s rubber bushings. The bearings are rolled in the pipe 23 of the bracket 43. Closer to the lower support on the shaft 24, a ring with a groove of the anti-theft device is welded.

The intermediate shaft at the ends has two non-separable cardan joints on needle bearings. The forks of the hinges are mounted on the shaft 58 of the worm and the upper shaft 24 and are fixed with tie bolts.

Bracket 43 is attached to the body panel bracket with four bolts, with the heads of the two lower bolts screwed into the welded nuts of the panel bracket and twisted at the moment of maximum tightening. Under the lower bolts, fixing plates 37 are installed, the rigidity of which is designed for a certain load. The upper bolts are welded and the bracket 43 is attached to them with nuts with curly and spring washers.

When the car collides with an obstacle, the load on the bolts of the bracket 43 increases and under its influence the ends of the plates 37 are deformed. In this case, the bracket 43 slips through the front mounting bolts, turning relative to the upper mounting bolts, as a result of which the steering wheel moves away from the driver's chest area, which reduces the likelihood of serious injury.

The steering shaft is closed by a facing casing 38, consisting of the upper and lower parts, interconnected by screws.

The steering drive includes: bipod 2, middle 8 and side rods 1, pendulum lever 9, swivel levers 15. These parts are interconnected by ball joints. The bipod is connected to the middle and side rods. It has a stop that limits the angle of rotation of the front wheels.

The middle rod 8 is one-piece, at the ends it has sockets for accommodating parts of ball joints. Side rods 1 composite. Each of them consists of two tips connected to each other by a threaded adjusting sleeve 10. The sleeve is fixed on the ends of the rod with two clamps 16. With this design of the side rods, it is possible to change their length, which is necessary to control the toe of the steered wheels. The outer tips of the side rods are pivotally connected to the 15 pivot arms, which are bolted to the steering knuckles. The inner tip of the right side rod is pivotally connected to the pendulum lever, and the tip of the left side rod is connected to the bipod. All ball joints are the same.

The ball joint of the rod consists of a steel pin 5, the spherical head of which rests on a conical split insert 6 made of plastic with high anti-seize properties. The conical spring 4, pressing the insert against the spherical head of the pin 5, automatically maintains a clearance-free connection between them. Washer 3, which is a support for the spring, is rolled in the socket of the tip from below. The conical part of the pin enters the conical hole of the pivot arm (bipod or pendulum arm) and is fastened with a castellated nut fixed with a cotter pin. During assembly, ball joints are filled with SRB-4 grease and sealed: from below with a support washer 3, from above with a reinforced protective cover 7. Replenishment or replacement of lubricant during vehicle operation is not required. If a protective covers in good condition and provide cleanliness inside the hinges, the service life of the latter is not limited. With a working hinge, the rod end should have an axial movement relative to the pin by 1-1.5 mm and should not have a noticeable runout.

The pendulum arm bracket is attached to the inside of the right side member with two bolts with self-locking nuts. The bracket is cast from aluminum alloy. In its through groove there are two plastic bushings 19, on which the axis 21 of the pendulum lever rotates. Washers are pressed to the ends of the bushings. The upper washer is mounted on the flats of the axle and is tightened with a castellated nut by a moment that ensures the rotation of the lever with a force of 10-20 N (1-2 kgf) applied at its end. The lower washer is pressed against the bushing by a self-locking nut with a torque of 106 N m (10 kgf-m). The pendulum lever 9 is fixed on the axle with the same nut. Rubber sealing rings 20 are installed between the end surfaces of the washers and the body of the pendulum lever bracket. During assembly, the cavity between the bushings is filled with Litol-24 grease. The bushings themselves are lubricated with the same grease.

With proper steering, the steering wheel free play should not exceed 5 ° (18-20 mm along the wheel rim), and the wheel turning force when turning on a smooth plate should not exceed 250 N (25 kgf).

Diagnostics of the technical condition of the ruddersaboutmanagement

Diagnostics allows you to assess the condition of the steering mechanism and steering gear without disassembling the components. Diagnosis includes work to determine steering wheel free playaboutscaffolding, total friction force,play in the tie rod joints.

The free play of the steering wheel and the friction force are determined using various instruments, which are called the backlash meter.

At modern service stations, most often, from backlash meters domestic production use the following models:

1. Backlash tester TL 2000

Backlash tester in the joints of the steering and suspension of vehicles with an axle load of up to 4 tons. Model TL 200 is a permanently installed platform consisting of a fixed plate with anti-friction linings and a movable platform moved around the angular axis by a pneumatic cylinder rod. Pneumatic cylinder Italian company PNEUMAX. Controlling the movement of the site using the button on the illumination lamp of the inspected mechanisms. The platform is flat and does not require deepening. Mounted on an inspection ditch or lift and fastened with two screws.

2. Instrument for measuring backlash ISL-401

Luftomer ISL-401 is the only lufmeter adopted by the order of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia No. 264 dated March 23, 2002 for the supply of internal affairs bodies of the Russian Federation and internal troops Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia. The device ISL-401 is designed to measure the total steering play vehicles by measuring the angle of rotation of the steering wheel relative to the beginning of the turn of the steered wheels in accordance with GOST R 51709-2001.

The total friction force in the steering is checked with the front wheels fully suspended by applying force to the dynamometer handles. Measurements are carried out with the wheels in a straight position and in the positions of their maximum turn to the right and left. In a properly adjusted steering mechanism, the steering wheel should turn freely from the middle position (for driving straight) with a force of 8-16 N.

At present, to determine the total friction force in steering, it is promising to use electronic dynamometers, general form which is shown in the figure.

A qualitative method of visual assessment makes a conclusion about the state of the steering rod joints (to the touch at the moment of a sharp application of force to the steering wheel to the steering wheel or directly to the hinges). In this case, the play in the hinges will be manifested by the mutual relative movement of the connected steering rods and impacts in the hinges. You can more accurately determine the play in the hinges connecting the steering rods using various backlash meters, for example, shown in the figure.

Steering Maintenance

car repair steering

At EO by a qualitative method of visual assessment and during the movement of the car, they check: the tightness of the connections and hoses of the power steering system, the free play of the steering wheel, the condition of the steering gear and steering gear.

At TO-1 check: fastening and cottering of the nuts of the levers of the rotary pins, nuts and ball pins of the longitudinal and transverse steering rods; the condition of the seals of the ball pins (detected malfunctions are eliminated); fastenings (if necessary, fix the steering bipod on the shaft); steering mechanism housing on the frame and locknut of the adjusting screw of the steering arm shaft, free travel and steering wheel turning force, play in the steering gear joints (if necessary, play is eliminated); tightening (if necessary, tighten the wedges of the propeller shaft of the steering mechanism), tensioning the drive belts of the power steering pump (correct if necessary).

At TO-2 check the fastening and, if necessary, fix the steering wheel on the shaft and the steering column on the cab panel, remove and wash the filter of the power steering pump.

POSSIBLE FAULTS, THEIR CAUSES AND REMEDIES

Cause of malfunction

Elimination Method

Increased steering wheel play

1. Loosening the bolts of the steering gear housing

1. Tighten nuts

2. Loosening the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods

2. Check and tighten the nuts

3. Increased clearance in ball joints.

3. Replace tips or tie rods

4. Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings

4. Adjust clearance

5. Increased clearance in the engagement of the roller with the worm

5. Adjust clearance

6. Too big gap between the axis of the pendulum lever and the bushings

6. Replace bushings or bracket assembly

7. Increased clearance in the worm bearings

7. Adjust clearance

Steering wheel tight

1. Deformation of steering gear parts

1. Replace deformed parts

2. Wrong installation front wheel angles

2. Check wheel alignment and adjust

3. The gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm is broken

3. Adjust clearance

4. The adjusting nut of the pendulum arm axle is overtightened

5. Low tire pressure in the front wheels

5. Set normal pressure

6. Damage to parts of ball joints

6. Check and replace damaged parts

7. There is no oil in the crankcase of the steering gear

7. Check and top up. Replace seal if necessary.

8. Damage to the bearings of the upper steering shaft

8. Replace bearings

Noise (knocking) in the steering

1. Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings

1. Adjust clearance

2. Loosen steering ball pin nuts

2. Check and tighten the nuts

3. Increased clearance between the pendulum axle and bushings

3. Replace bushings or bracket assembly

4. The adjusting nut of the swingarm axle is loose

4. Adjust the tightening of the nut

5. The gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm or in the bearings of the worm is broken

5. Adjust clearance

6. Increased clearance in the ball joints of the steering rods

6. Replace tips or tie rods

7. Loose steering gear housing or swingarm bracket

7. Check and tighten bolt nuts

8. Loosening the swing arm nuts

8. Tighten nuts

9. Loosening of bolts of fastening of an intermediate shaft of a steering

9. Tighten the bolt nuts

Self-excited angular oscillation of the front wheels

1. Tire pressure not correct

2. Check and adjust the front wheel alignment

3. Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings

3. Adjust clearance

4. Wheel imbalance

4. Balance the wheels

5. Loosening the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods

5. Check and tighten the nuts

6. Loose steering gear case bolts or swing arm bracket

6. Check and tighten the bolt nuts

7. The gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm is broken

7. Adjust clearance

Driving the vehicle away from straight ahead in one direction

one . Tire pressure uneven

one . Check and set normal pressure

2. Violated the angles of the front wheels

2. Check and adjust wheel alignment

3. Different draft of the front suspension springs

3. Replace bad springs

4. Deformed steering knuckles or suspension arms

4. Check knuckles and levers, replace bad parts

5. Incomplete release of one or more wheels

5. Check the condition of the brake system, correct the malfunction

Vehicle instability

1. Violated the angles of the front wheels

1. Check and adjust wheel alignment

2. Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings

2. Adjust clearance

3. Loosening the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods

3. Check and tighten the nuts

4. Too much play in the ball joints of the steering rods

4. Replace tips or tie rods

5. Loose steering gear housing or swing arm bracket

5. Check and tighten the bolt nuts

6. Increased clearance in the engagement of the roller and the worm

6. Adjust clearance

7. Deformed steering knuckles or suspension arms

7. Check knuckles and levers; replace deformed parts

Oil leakage from crankcase

1. Wear of the oil seal of the shaft of the bipod or worm

1. Replace the oil seal

2. Loosening the bolts securing the steering gear housing covers

2. Tighten the bolts

3. Damaged gaskets

3. Replace gaskets

Steering adjustment and repair

Steering adjustment and repair includes the following work:

1. Inspection, testing and adjustment of the steering.

2. Checking the ball joints of the steering rods

3. Checking and adjusting the clearance in the steering gear worm bearings

4. Checking and adjusting the clearance in the engagement of the roller with the worm of the steering gear

5. Dismantling and assembly work with the replacement of worn parts.

Below is a detailed description of the procedure for performing the listed works.

GENERAL INSPECTION, CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT OF STEERING

If there are malfunctions in the steering (knocking, increased free play of the steering wheel or, conversely, its tight rotation, etc.), inspect the steering parts. Inspection is carried out on a flyover or in a viewing ditch in the following order.

Clean the steering drive parts and the steering gear housing from contamination. Set the wheels to a straight ahead position.

Turning the steering wheel in both directions, make sure that:

The free play of the steering wheel does not exceed 5 ° (when measured along the wheel rim, no more than 18-20 mm);

There are no knocks in the hinges, joints and steering mechanism;

Steering gear housing and pendulum arm bracket securely (tighten screw connections if necessary);

There is no free play in the ball joints of the rods and in the bracket of the pendulum lever, and the worm shaft does not move in the axial direction;

The force of turning the steering wheel (when installing the front wheels on a smooth plate) does not exceed 196 N (20 kgf).

Turning the adjusting couplings of the side rods, make sure that their collars are tightened securely.

Check the condition of the ball joints and protective caps as indicated below.

CHECKING THE TIE ROD BALL JOINTS

First of all, check the movement of the rod ends along the axis of the fingers. To do this, using the lever and support, move the tip parallel to the axis of the finger.

The axial movement of the tip relative to the finger should be 1-1.5 mm. This movement indicates that the pin bushing is not wedged in the thrust tip socket and moves with the pin, compressing the spring. Replace jammed bushing.

By pumping the steering wheel in both directions, check by touch that there is no free play in the steering rod joints. If free play is felt in the ball joint, replace the tie rod end or tie rod assembly.

Check up a condition of protective caps of spherical hinges of steering draughts.

If the protective caps are in good condition and keep the inside of the hinges clean, then the service life of the latter is practically unlimited. If moisture, dust, etc. gets into the hinge parts wear out prematurely.

The cap must be replaced if it has cracks, ruptures, and also if the lubricant penetrates outward when squeezing it with your fingers.

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE GAP IN THE STEERING GEAR WORM BEARINGS

Rice. Section of the crankcase of the steering gear: 1 - plate of the adjusting screw of the bipod shaft; 2 - adjusting screw of the bipod shaft; 3 - adjusting screw nut; 4 - oil filler plug; 5 - cover of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 6 - worm; 7 - steering gear housing; 8 - bipod; 9 - nut for fastening the bipod to the shaft; 10 - spring washer of the bipod fastening nut; 11 - bipod shaft seal; 12 - bronze bushing of the bipod shaft; 13 - bipod shaft; 14 - bipod shaft roller; 15 - worm shaft; 16 - upper ball bearing; 17 - lower ball bearing; 18 - shims; 19 - lower cover of the worm bearing; 20 - roller axis; 21 - roller ball bearing; 22 - worm shaft seal; B, C - marks

Set the front wheels to the position of rectilinear movement and, turning the steering wheel in both directions, check if the distance between the end of the crankcase 7 (Fig. 5-2) and the mark "B" applied on the shaft of the steering gear worm does not change.

A change in distance is a sign of clearance in the worm bearings.

To adjust the clearance in the worm bearings, turn the steering wheel to the left by 1-1.5 turns, unscrew the bolts securing the bottom cover 19 and drain the oil from the steering gear housing. Remove the bottom cover, remove one of the shims 18 or replace it with a thinner one.

Note. Shims are supplied as spares in 0.10 and 0.15 mm thicknesses.

After securing the bottom cover, check again if there is any axial movement of the worm in the bearings. If there is no movement, pour 0.215 liters of transmission oil TAD-17i into the crankcase of the steering mechanism.

Check the steering force by placing the front wheels on a smooth slab. It should not exceed 196 N (20 kgf).

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE GAP IN ENGAGING THE ROLLER WITH THE WORM OF THE STEERING MECHANISM

After making sure that there is no axial movement of the worm in the bearings, press the pins of the ball joints out of the holes in the bipod with puller A.47035 and disconnect the rods from the bipod, while maintaining the straight position of the front wheels.

Shaking the bipod by the head, check if there is a gap in the engagement of the worm roller. Within 30° of steering wheel rotation to each side of the neutral clearance position, i.e. tangible free play of the bipod should not be.

If free play of the bipod is felt, loosen the nut 3 of the adjusting screw and, lifting the lock washer, tighten the adjusting screw 2 until the gap is eliminated. Do not overtighten the adjusting screw. Then, holding the adjusting screw with a screwdriver, tighten the nut 3.

After making sure that the bipod does not move, connect the fingers of the ball joints to it. Check steering wheel turning force. If it exceeds 196 N (20 kgf), loosen adjusting screw 2.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE STEERING MECHANISM

Withdrawal. Disconnect the wires from the battery and remove the signal switch by carefully prying the three latches from the bottom through the windows with a screwdriver.

Remove the steering wheel. Remove both halves of a facing casing of a shaft of a steering.

Remove the instrument panel and disconnect the three-lever switch connectors from the cable harness connectors.

Disconnect the wires from the ignition switch terminals and, having unscrewed the mounting screws and drowned the lock latch, remove the ignition switch. Loosen the clamp securing the turn signal, headlight and wiper switch housing and remove it.

Turn away a bolt of fastening of the lower end of an intermediate shaft to a shaft of a worm of the steering mechanism.

Rice. Details of the steering gear: 1 - steering gear housing; 2 - shaft seal; 3 - intermediate shaft; 4 - upper shaft; 5 - fixing plate of the front part of the bracket; 6 - steering shaft mounting bracket; 7 - upper part of the facing casing; 8 - bearing sleeve; 9 - needle bearing; 10 - steering wheel; 11 - lower part of the facing casing; 12 - bracket fastening details

Turn away bolts of fastening of an arm 6 and remove a shaft of a steering with an arm.

Unscrew the nuts securing the ball pins of the side and middle rods to the bipod, and then press the ball pins out of the holes in the bipod with a puller A.47035.

Remove the steering gear housing by first unscrewing the bolts of its fastening to the body side member. Loosen the screws securing the steering shaft seal and remove it.

Installation. Having fixed seal 2 on the bulkhead, install the steering gear housing on the side member, without fully tightening the nuts of the crankcase fastening bolts.

Use a special device to orient the crankcase so that the angle a (Fig. 5-4) does not exceed 32 °, and the gap between the shaft and the brake pedal is at least 5 mm. Then fully tighten the crankcase bolt nuts.

Set the bipod of the steering mechanism to the middle position, for which align the marks on the crankcase and on the worm shaft

Temporarily install the wheel on the shaft so that the spokes are horizontal and in this position connect the universal joint yoke of the intermediate steering shaft to the worm shaft, then attach the steering shaft bracket to the body.

Remove a steering wheel and put on a steering shaft the switch of indexes of turn, light of headlights and screen wipers.

Rice. Installation of the steering gear on the car: 1 - bolts of the steering gear housing; 2 - coupling bolt of the lower end of the intermediate shaft; 3 - bracket mounting bolts; 4 - steering shaft bracket; 27.5 mm - distance from the center of the bipod hole to the bearing surface of the steering gear case with the bipod in the middle position

Establish a steering wheel on a shaft in an initial position and, pressing a steering wheel, as it is shown by arrows in fig. check that there is no radial movement of the shaft. For radial movement, replace the upper shaft of the steering mechanism or its bearing.

Check that the steering wheel rotates smoothly and easily in both directions, then tighten the steering wheel nut and secure it at three points. Slide the turn signal, headlight and wiper switch housing towards the steering wheel until it stops and tighten the switch mounting clamp.

Connect the wires to the ignition switch terminals and screw the switch to the steering shaft bracket.

Connect the connectors for the indicator switch, headlights, and wiper to the connectors for the car's wire harness.

Mount the two halves of the cladding on the shaft and fasten them with screws. Install the horn switch on the steering wheel.

Install the middle and side left-hand ball pins on the bipod and secure them with nuts.

Adjust the toe-in of the front wheels and check the force on the steering wheel, which, when turning the wheels in place on a smooth plate, should not exceed 196 N (20 kgf) (when measured on the wheel rim).

To mount the assembly, position the steering wheel spokes horizontally and connect the worm shaft to the lower end of the intermediate steering shaft.

With the bracket bolts not fully tightened, turn the steering wheel to both sides several times, then tighten the bracket bolts.

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF THE STEERING CASE

Disassembly. Drain the oil from the steering box. Attach the crankcase to bracket A.74076/R with support A.74076/1.

Rice. Removing the bipod: 1 - puller A.47043; 2 - a shaft of a bipod of a steering; 3 - bipod; 4 - bracket A.74076/R

Having unscrewed the nut fastening the steering arm 2 (Fig. 5-6) and having removed the spring washer, remove the bipod with puller A.74043 (Fig. 5-5). Having unscrewed the fastening bolts, remove the cover 12 (Fig. 5-6) of the steering gear case together with the adjusting screw 8, the adjusting plate 9, the lock washer 10 and the lock nut. Remove the shaft 7 of the bipod assembly with the roller from the crankcase 1 of the steering mechanism.

Having unscrewed the fastening bolts, remove the cover 3 of the worm shaft thrust bearing together with the shims 4.

Rice. Details of the crankcase of the steering mechanism: 1 - crankcase; 2 - bipod "3 - lower crankcase cover; 4 - shims; 5 - outer ring of the worm shaft bearing; 6 - cage with balls; 7 - bipod shaft; 8 - adjusting screw; 9 - adjusting plate; 10 - lock washer; 11 - worm shaft; 12 - upper crankcase cover; 13 - sealing gasket; 14 - bipod shaft bushing; 15 - worm shaft seal; 16 - bipod shaft seal

With the shaft 11 of the worm, push the outer ring 5 of the bearing out of the crankcase and remove the shaft together with the separator 6 of the bearings. Remove the worm shaft seal 15 and the bipod shaft seal 16.

Using tool 67.7853.9541, press out the outer ring of the upper bearing.

Rice. Removing the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm using mandrel 67.7853.9541: 1 - steering gear housing; 2 - the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm; 3 - mandrel 67.7853.9541

Assemble the steering mechanism on the bracket A74076/R in the reverse order of disassembly.

Press the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm with mandrel 67.7853.9541, rearranging the nozzle on the handle of the mandrel with the reverse side.

Fig. Removing the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm: 1 - steering gear housing; 2 - the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm; 3 - mandrel 67.7853.9541

Rice. Control of the moment of friction of the worm with a dynamometer: 1 - worm; 2 - head A.95697/5; 3 - dynamometer 02.7812.9501; 4 - stand bracket for repairing the crankcase of the steering gear; 5 - steering gear housing

After installing the worm in the crankcase of the steering mechanism and fixing the bottom cover, use the dynamometer 02.7812.9501 and the head A.95697/5 (Fig. 5-9) to check the moment of friction of the worm shaft; it should be in the range of 19.6-49 N cm (2-5 kgf cm). If the torque is less than specified, reduce the thickness of the shims 2 (Fig. 5-8), and if more - increase.

After installing the bipod shaft, check the absence of play in the engagement of the roller with the worm in the positions of the worm shaft turned to the right and left by 30 ° from the neutral position of the bipod. Set the possible gap in the engagement with the adjusting screw 2 (Fig. 5-2) and tighten the lock nut 3.

After adjusting the gap in the engagement of the roller and the worm, check the friction moment of the worm shaft with a dynamometer, which should be equal to 68.6-88.2 N cm (7-9 kgf cm) when the worm shaft is rotated 30 ° both to the left and to the right from the middle position and decrease smoothly to 49 N cm (5 kgf cm) when turning from an angle of 30 ° to the stop.

Upon completion of assembly, check the angles of rotation of the bipod from the neutral position, which should be 32 ° 10 "± 1 ° both to the left and to the right, until the bipod stops against the bolt heads, pour 0.125 liters of gear oil into the steering gear housing.

CHECK AND REPAIR

Carefully inspect the working surfaces of the roller and worm for signs of wear, jamming or scratches. Replace worn and damaged parts.

Check the gap between the bushings and the bipod shaft, which should not exceed 0.10 mm. If the clearance is greater than specified, replace the bushings using drift A. 74105.

On the inner surface of the bipod shaft bushings lie spiral grooves that have access to only one side of the bushing. When pressing the bushings, position them so that their ends with groove outlets are inside the crankcase opening, and the groove outlets are located opposite each other. The ends of the bushings should be buried in the crankcase hole by 1.5 mm.

Lubricate new bushings with transmission oil before pressing.

After pressing into the crankcase, finish the bushings with a reamer A.90336 to a size of 28.698-28.720 mm. The mounting gap between the bipod shaft and bushings should be within 0.008-0.051 mm.

Check the ease of rotation of the bipod shaft roller on the ball bearing.

The ball bearings of the worm and roller must rotate freely, without sticking, and there must be no wear and damage on the surface of the rings and balls.

Check the axial clearance between the head of the adjusting screw 8 (Fig. 5-6) and the groove of the bipod shaft 7. The clearance should not exceed 0.05 mm. If it is larger, replace the adjusting plate 9 with a thicker one.

Spare parts are available in eleven sizes of shims, from 1.95 mm to 2.20 mm thick, each size increasing by 0.025 mm.

Check the condition of the fixing plates 5 (Fig. 5-3). If they are deformed, replace them.

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF THE TOP STEERING SHAFT

Disassembly. Turn away a coupling bolt of a plug of the cardan hinge and disconnect an intermediate and top shaft of a steering.

If the upper shaft or its bearings are damaged, flare the coring points of the bracket pipe and remove shaft 13 (Fig. 5-1) complete with bearings 10 from the pipe.

If the shaft rotates in the bearings without binding and no axial or radial free play is felt in the bearings, disassembly of the upper steering shaft is not recommended.

If the shaft or its bearings are worn or damaged, replace them with new ones.

Reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly. Then screw in two points on both sides of the bracket tube to fix the shaft bearings.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF RODS AND BALL JOINTS OF THE STEERING GEAR

Loosen and remove the nuts that secure the side link ball pins to the steering knuckle arms.

Puller A.47052 remove the ball pins from the conical sockets on the levers.

Rice. Removing the ball pins of the steering trapezoid rods: 1 - wrench; 2 - puller A.47052; 3 - ball joint; 4 - steering knuckle lever

Loosen and unscrew the nuts securing the ball pins of the middle and side rods to the bipod and to the pendulum arm. Using puller A.47035, remove the pins from the corresponding sockets on the levers and remove the rods.

Installation of drafts of a steering make in an order, the return to removal. Tighten all ball joint nuts torque wrench followed by splinting. If the cutout of the nut does not line up with the hole for the cotter pin, then tighten the nut by an angle less than 60° to ensure the cotter pin.

After installation, adjust the toe-in of the front wheels.

CHECK AND REPAIR

Fig. Section of the ball joint of the thrust: 1 - ball pin; 2 - dirt cap; 3 - hinge body; 4 - insert; 5 - spring; 6 - plug

Check the condition of the protective caps 2 (fig. 5-11) as described above (see "Inspection, check and adjustment of the steering"). Replace damaged protective caps.

Check up on a radial and axial backlash a condition of spherical hinges of drafts. If you feel a free play in the ball joint, as well as when dirt, sand get into the joint, corrosion appears on the ball pin and when the bearing stroke is fully used, replace the joint with a thrust tip.

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It is a set of nodes and mechanisms designed to ensure the movement of the vehicle in one direction or another. It is difficult to overestimate the importance that maintenance and repair of steering has for the safety of both the owner of the car or his passengers, and for all other road users. Therefore, a number of fairly stringent requirements are imposed on this system. And the procedure for repair or maintenance is quite strictly regulated.

The main types of mechanisms

Three main types are installed on modern cars:

  • Worm. They, in turn, are divided into worm-roller and worm-sector types.
  • Toothed (rack or gear type).
  • Screw, which can be either a screw-lever or screw-rack element.
  • RWD cars most often equipped with a screw-roller type mechanism.

Of course, depending on the type of system, steering repair in each case has its own characteristics, subtleties and nuances.

In order to understand all aspects of this complex and time-consuming process, it is necessary to have not only deep theoretical knowledge, but also rich practical experience, as well as the necessary arsenal of equipment and tools. That is why it is best to entrust the repair of the steering of a car to highly qualified specialists. However, there are general principles, algorithms and schemes used as a basis for carrying out this type of work.

What does it consist of

It is customary for specialists to subdivide the steering system as a whole into three components:

  • steering mechanism, which was discussed in detail above;
  • drive, it can be either front or rear;
  • drive amplification system (not installed on all models and classes).

In addition, the drive trapezoid can be of two types - threaded or split. This diversity makes the maintenance and repair of car steering a complex process.

The main requirements for the system

The main requirements for the steering of a car and related to safety are as follows:

  • correct turning kinematics, excluding side slip or slip factors;
  • ease and simplicity of management;
  • ensuring the required values ​​of gear ratios;
  • high strength and rigidity of parts and assemblies;
  • tight fit of parts and minimum gaps in the joints.

All this requires a scrupulous approach, careful attention to the system and its constant monitoring.

Therefore, the maintenance and repair of the steering is certainly included in the list of mandatory work for TO-1 and TO-2, as well as for the seasonal maintenance course.

Types of maintenance

Maintenance of mechanisms and steering units is carried out in a planned manner. Depending on the type of service, one or another amount of work is performed. It is customary to distinguish the following types of complexes of preventive and repair works:

  • daily service;
  • TO-1;
  • TO-2;
  • seasonal preventive complex.

Daily set of measures

It is quite obvious that the repair is significantly different from similar work performed with the system of any passenger car.

But as for the daily set of actions, it includes a fairly universal list of measures applicable to vehicles of almost any class. This list includes the following:

  • steering wheel free play control;
  • reliability of fastenings of the steering arm;
  • checking the operability of the limiters of the maximum angles of rotation;
  • checking the size of the gaps in the hinges of the hydraulic booster and in the steering rods;
  • general control of the operability of the control and the amplifier.

It is important to note that the entire cycle of work listed above is strongly recommended to be carried out with the engine running.

First MOT

Complex of maintenance and repair works automotive system management in the case of TO-1 includes the following additional actions:

  • checking the condition of fastening nuts and cotter pins of fasteners of steering bipods;
  • control of the state of the levers of the rotary pins, as well as the ball pins;
  • monitoring of free travel of traction joints;
  • checking how tight the repair is when problems are detected;
  • control of the level of technical fluid in the hydraulic booster reservoir, topping up or replacing it when the level drops below the critical level set by the manufacturer.

In addition, a thorough check is made of the tightening of the fastening nuts, the condition of the wedges, pivots and other fastening elements. In addition to this, a more thorough than usual visual inspection of the condition of the parts, assemblies and fixtures of the system is carried out.

Second maintenance

When carrying out TO-2, the steering of the vehicle is subjected to deeper control.

In addition to the actions performed during TO-1, in standard list TO-2 measures, in particular, include the following works:

  • control of the correctness of the values ​​​​of the angles of installation of the steered wheels and their adjustment in case of deviations;
  • checking the fastening of the rudder housing, pivot wedges, as well as all joints of parts and assemblies;
  • control of fastenings of the cardan shaft of the steering wheel, traction joints and pivots, clearance values ​​in the steering system;
  • diagnostics of the state of the hydraulic booster system.

Secondary steering repair work avoids most potential malfunctions, malfunctions, and vehicle handling problems by providing effective preventive maintenance.

Unless, of course, they were produced on time and with proper quality.

Seasonal maintenance

Seasonal maintenance is an additional measure that allows you to effectively monitor the condition and performance of the steering. At seasonal service, as a rule, the same amount of work is performed as during TO-2 and is supplemented by work to replace lubricants and technical fluids according to the season.

Thus, constant monitoring and timely implementation of the necessary set of measures for the maintenance of the vehicle control system can not only significantly increase its safety.

In most cases, it makes it possible to avoid very tangible losses, both financial and temporary. As you know, the repair of the steering of MTZ, KamAZ, and any other car, especially a modern one, is quite expensive. By analogy with medicine, maintenance is just the case when the disease is much easier and cheaper to prevent than to treat it later.

So, we found out how the car steering is repaired.