How to make a homemade quadric. How to assemble a homemade ATV. Final stage and finishing works

Today, four-wheeled units are gaining more and more popularity. But not everyone can afford to buy such a device. Then the question arises of how to make an ATV with your own hands. The process of creation itself is very exciting, and it is not at all difficult to find components. Therefore, if you have a desire, feel free to get to work.

Before starting work, a clear visual representation of the future structure is required. The drawings of homemade ATVs vary in accordance with the tasks of the owner and the features of further use (transporting goods, passing through rough terrain, etc.). After exploring the basic diagrams and structures, draw your own four-wheeled bike project. An illustrative example will serve as a basis for the work and will help explain to specialists what is required of them.

Of course, homemade work loses to established brands. However, if you choose the right materials and assemble compatible parts, then you get a completely powerful unit that can compete with competitors. Moreover, you will save a lot.

Work process

The first step is to make drawings of the ATV with your own hands. Make the most of your sketching efforts. You will need them to determine the required parts and calculate the costs.

After creating the drawing, start buying components. Usually their main structure includes:

  • frame - the main structure on which the entire unit will be held;
  • pipes of various lengths and diameters to ensure the operation of the system;
  • rolled metal, for the installation of shields, protection and other things;
  • shock absorbers;
  • engine and its components.

The ATV is easiest to make with special equipment. If one is not available, the best option would be to contact specialists with ready-made drawings. They will not only do the job well, but they will also be able to adjust inconsistencies parts and mechanisms.

The frame should be made individual, according to the dimensions of the planned device. However, if you wish, you can take a simple frame from a motorcycle or a Russian-made car. The easiest way is to make an ATV from the Oka with your own hands. Because Oka's wheelbase is not great, this simplifies the sizing work.

Suspension and shock absorbers from cars and bikes are also great for future crafts. Considering that ATVs are designed for movement on difficult terrain, shock absorbers from a moped Minsk or Dnepr will be an excellent option.

The brakes are a very important part of the design. You shouldn't save on them. Create an ATV with your own hands, 4x4 drives, better with a VAZ brake system. Their durability is designed for cars, so a lightweight four-wheeled bike will respond well to such a system.

The steering wheel can be taken from any motorcycle. It is desirable that weights be installed on it to reduce vibration from the operation of the motor and movement on rocky terrain. This will reduce hand pressure and fatigue while riding.

Depending on which way of operation you choose, you need to select wheels with a wear calculation. For trips on normal roads, simple wheels from the Oka are suitable. However, if you want to achieve good off-road ability, it is worth investing in specialized wheels and tires from manufacturers.

And the most important thing is the engine. The best option for the role of a motor will be engines from motorcycles IZH Jupiter or Planet. Not a new motor will do quite well. Their simple design will help you to easily replace worn out and broken parts. At the same time, don't forget about cooling. It is necessary to find the ideal option for different climatic conditions. Active cooling, which unfortunately hasn't been used on motorcycles, is great.

A homemade ATV from Oka, the drawings of which, depending on the operating conditions, must contain additional equipment, can be equipped with fog lights, a tool box (very useful in case of a breakdown) or a winch.

Assembling the structure

After creating drawings and selection of material, you can start creating the unit. First of all, a frame is created, on which all the details will be installed later. It is advisable to use the strongest and most corrosion-resistant materials during work. When driving off-road, the sturdy construction will keep your engine from breaking down more than once.
Next comes the installation of the chassis. Here it is necessary to show the accuracy of assembly, since the coordinated work of all wheels and shock absorbers will provide good dynamics and stability of the apparatus.

Then proceed to the installation of the engine and its components. If the mechanisms are not aligned, never use brute force. This will lead to subsequent operational problems. After connecting the engine to the box, connect the fuel system. The fuel tank can be made with a margin, which will ensure the possibility of long journeys.

Now you need to install the electrical equipment. At this stage, wires are laid, headlights, signal lights and other consumer elements are installed.

After completing the main work, you can proceed to the cladding and body kit. It is up to you to use metal or plastic sheets when installing the body kit, but it is recommended select based on the weight load on the engine... With sufficient power, a couple of kilograms will not be noticeable. It is better to install seats with a hydraulic cushion, but you will have to pay extra for this, because when driving for a long time on a bad road, vibration mitigation will provide additional comfort.

This is the easiest way to make a homemade ATV from Oka 4x4. The main thing in work is the correct balance of finances and opportunities. After all, if you want to create an equal four-wheeled bike without calculating the costs, you risk leaving your work unfinished.

Today we will talk about how to make a real ATV out of a motorcycle, walk-behind tractor or moped ourselves. We will also consider drawings, diagrams and methods for assembling a homemade ATV from scrap materials in the garage

From a motorcycle of the "Ural" type - this big, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" animal has a wonderful four-stroke engine with reverse gear and is worth a "penny". For this reason, it is much cheaper and more fun for enthusiasts to create their own designs for these SUVs.

Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to draw up a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own brainchild, develop a work plan and a design drawing.

It is logical that first of all it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future ATV - the power unit. Absolutely anything will do, from a conventional walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.
To use high gear ratios under normal operating conditions, a Minsk or Ural engine will suffice.

In the summer, the issue of overheating arises, so air-cooled models should be chosen. Another good option is the Soviet-made boxer engines, the indisputable advantage of which is powerful traction and a completely unpretentious cardan drive.

There are two common ATV rear suspension solutions.
Gear-cardan system. The design turns out to be as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously mentioned advantages.

Using a road bridge. The construction turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with a car base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. Of the advantages, it is worth highlighting only the presence of a differential, which is useful when driving on highways.

The possibilities for front suspension and steering are tremendous. The suspension arms of an ATV carry a significantly lower load than automobile ones, respectively, they can be made independently using available tools. The best option is to create a suspension based on the existing Ural motorcycle.

It is ideal to remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and add the necessary elements - this eliminates a number of problems, but the design can turn out to be unnecessarily complicated.


Having prepared the necessary tools, donor vehicles and freeing up time, you can start creating your own ATV:

We collect the frame (frame). We connect the prepared metal beams, according to the drawing, with each other using spot welding. We check the structure and carry out solid welding. Alternatively, you can simply remake the frame from the donor motorcycle - it will turn out to be no worse.

Installing the engine. It can be installed both from the back and from the front - the main thing is to firmly fix it with bolts on the bottom of the frame.

We mount the drive and transmission to the rear wheels. The drive does not need to be created independently - it goes with the engine from the donor transport and is installed on the frame. Again, the drive and transmission must be properly secured to the frame to prevent backlash.

The steering is also installed from the motorcycle. Together with the steering wheel, the fuel tank "migrates" to the ATV. In general, if you imagine the structure, it will look like this: 3/4 of the ATV is the same "Ural" or another motorcycle, 1/4 is a home-made frame and suspension. ...

We install the wheels from a small-sized vehicle ("Oka" or "ZAZ-968"). The rear wheels can be switched to an ATV together with the rear axle of the car, or they can be attached as follows: we take ready-made axles with discs, and then we attach a gearbox to the rear for the drive. and install wheels on the disks
With a gearbox on the rear axle and an engine, we assemble a single drive (again, it will be easier if it is completely rearranged from the donor funds). We do this as follows: from the engine we pull the chain onto the gearbox and fix it, after which we carry out a performance check. Finally, we fix the entire structure on the frame.

The front suspension is independent - it is more profitable in terms of time and money, since an all-wheel drive ATV requires significant revision of this unit by a professional turner, welder and electrician, which will take a very long time. Alternatively, we purchase ready-made factory units for ATVs.

Thanks to its reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, it is the Ural motorcycle that is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.
Frame.

ATV Frame Specification:

Material: 2.5 x 2.5 square profile
Total length: 130cm
Overall height: 74 cm (landing level)
Overall height: 84 cm (handlebar level)
Wheel base: 105 cm
Distance between axles: 70.5 cm
Axis tilt: 14 degrees
Track (distance from the outer edge of the tire to the outer edge of the other): front: 105 cm; back: 112 cm
Ground clearance: 7 inches (with 16-inch rear wheels)
Materials:
Square profile:

2.5x2.5 square profile - 9.75 meters
Pipes:

1.22 meters - 1 x .065 (inches)
1.22 meters - 3/4 x .065
0.3048 meters - 3/4 x .125
0.915 meters - 5/8 x .125
0.61 Meters - 1/2 x .083 T6 Aluminum Tube
Rent:

0.61 meters - 1 x 3/16 (inches)
0.915 meters - 1 1/4 x 1/4
0.61 meters - 5 x 1/8 (engine and suspension plate)

You will also need spring dampers for the rear and front suspensions.

Engine for ATV:

Now you need to securely mount the engine to the frame. The engine is best used from a moped. After screwing it to the frame, connect the motor shaft to the gear on the rear axle with a simple chain drive. After that, bring all engine controls to the handlebars and secure the pedals and levers to your frame.

The best and easiest way to make parts of the body kit or bodywork of an ATV is fiberglass. After manufacturing on wooden or plasticine blanks, the elements of the aerodynamic body kit are adjusted relative to each other, polished and then painted in the desired color, after which they are already attached to the ATV frame. Ideas, as well as some ready-made elements, for example from a broken car (of course, if you have them available), options for an external body kit can be taken from any serial models.
Important:

Remember that in order to operate the ATV on public roads, you will need to register it with the traffic police, where it is necessary to register any vehicles with an engine over 50 cc and a maximum design speed of over 50 km / h. Therefore, we recommend not to use engines larger than fifty cubic centimeters.

The frame for the ATV is welded using round pipes, corners and square profiles. At the same time, it is advisable to use elements of various mopeds and motorcycles, because it is there that pipes with high strength are used. Never use water pipes. They do not have the required strength and can crack at any time. Then we weld on the mounting brackets and fix the engine to the frame. Make your first ATV out of a moped engine
Even your children will like it, who will simply be delighted with it. The fact is that petrol-powered ATVs for kids are a great toy for every child. After all, he does not develop huge speeds, but the guys will have more than enough emotions from overcoming rough terrain. Next, we connect the engine shaft to the rear axle gear using a chain.

We install the ATV control mechanisms on the steering column, and attach the pedals and levers to the frame. The power supply and ignition system is taken from the same moped model from which we took the engine. Over time, they can be improved and refined within reasonable limits, of course. You can choose a fuel tank of the appropriate size. Do not forget also the point that in the question of how to make an ATV, each stage must be carefully worked out. Therefore, installing a battery on such a car is simply necessary.

You also need parts for assembling the ATV:

1 - disks from a scooter tourist or ant
2 - rubber for motoblock 10 inches and wider 4.5 or 5.0
3 - profile pipe 15 * 15. 17 * 17. 20 * 20. 25 * 25.
4 - bearing 306 - 12 pieces
5 - outer cv joint vaz 2109-08 16 pieces of which 4 are new 4 used, but workers, and 8 can be killed (for any hundred in scrap metal) and 8 anthers.
6 - engine with a moped at least 150 cc. for example, a viper storm in a place with a wiring with an ignition switch with a wheel and a glushak
7 - reducer from a motor scooter ant reinforced (all shafts on bearings)
8 - four leading sprockets from the 21 tooth Izh and two new chains
9 - ball joints with Renault 21 for any disassembly with a shaft and a penny
10 - reactive thrust of the rear axle (short.) From 2101, 6 pcs.
11 - a bunch of different bolts of cutting wheels and electrodes, well, that's all along the way
12 - shock absorbers for the Yamaha ario smoped -4 pieces from a Honda Lead 2 pieces and another 8 killed shock absorbers from any yap mopeds (we will cut off the ears from them)


.

In winter, the ATV can be easily converted by replacing the rear wheels with pneumatics and installing a steering ski in front; the car thus turns into a snowmobile, and the transformation takes less than an hour. The use of available materials in the manufacture of the all-terrain vehicle, the simplicity of the design may well ensure the repeatability of the machine even in a home workshop.

The MTS frame is made of round tubes, square profiles and corners. It features detachable connections that allow you to remove the steering column assembly when installing the engine, as well as the front axle beam. Each of the connectors consists of a conventional "water pipe" sleeve, squeegee and locknut.

To tension the chain connecting the engine with the gearbox, the motor frame (part of the frame of the Minsk motorcycle) is moved; the axle of the rear wheels with bearings also has the ability to move in the longitudinal direction, which makes it possible to adjust the tension of the second chain connecting the gearbox to the rear axle. Front and rear fenders are removable (they are not available in the version of the snowmobile). The frame elements were joined by electric welding.

The motor vehicle engine is from the Minsk motorcycle, I have no comments on its operation. It is, of course, possible to install more powerful engines - from the Voskhod motorcycle or the Tula scooter; it is only necessary to adjust the dimensions of the frame for them. The choice of the "Minsk" engine was due to its efficiency and low weight. Its power turned out to be quite sufficient for trips on a snowmobile with a passenger, it is also possible to tow a skier or sled. The starting properties of the motor in summer and winter are quite satisfactory.

The directional control of the summer version of the motor vehicle is provided by turning the front wheels using two rods; for the winter version, there is a lever and a rod connecting it to the ski fork. The latter is borrowed from a moped. The front axle is from the SZD motorized carriage, however, somewhat reduced: sections are cut out of its beams and the central parts (with the torsion bolt) are welded to the peripheral ones (with the suspension arm bushings). In the winter version, the levers, steering knuckles, rods and torsion bars are dismantled.

The steering wheel is from the "Tourist" scooter, it fits perfectly with the steering shaft with an M10 bolt. The controls are standard, motorcycle. The brake lever is connected by a cable to the brake pads mounted on the gearbox.

Reducer. It is based on the rear wheel hub of the Tula-200 scooter, to which an asterisk is welded on the side of the brake drum. The rear axle is driven by a chain with a 19 mm pitch. The transmission brake makes the rear axle much simpler. The sprocket on the axle is fixed with an M14 bolt, the hubs of the travel wheels are similarly attached, as shown in the drawings. As the basis of the gearbox, you can use not only the hub of the "Tourist" wheel, but also other motor vehicles.

The axle of the driving wheels is a rod with a diameter of 30 mm; its ends are turned to Ø25 mm; turned hubs are put on these places. Wheels are used from a motorized carriage with a size of 5.00X10.0. Winter wheels of the usual design for pneumatic tubes on low-pressure tires: with plywood discs, aluminum cradles and belts for the chamber. The axle bearings are double-row, they have tapered inserts with nuts, which fix the axle well and do not require high machining accuracy.

More information about ATVs can be found at this link:


Optional equipment. This includes front and rear racks, headlights, turn signals and brake lights; their attachment points are shown in the figures.

The design of the all-terrain vehicle is simple, it can be made in just a few days in a fairly primitive workshop - of course, if all the components are available. And the possibilities of using such a machine are the widest: as a winch when plowing a vegetable garden, to drive a circular saw, as a simple garden tractor (excellent cross-country ability, therefore cultivation, hilling, etc. is possible). In addition, cross-country ability can be increased by installing twin rear wheels. You can also mount a reverse gear from the SZA motorized carriage, in which the differential is replaced by a shaft, and then the all-terrain vehicle will receive reverse gear. Rubber wear due to the lack of a differential is not observed, and this does not affect handling.

The ATV is a four-wheeled hybrid of a motorcycle and a tractor, a vehicle that is equally successfully used in both agriculture and recreation. A few years ago, a Russian person considered the ATV to be a foreign curiosity. And today he is able to independently design and manufacture it. In addition, today homemade ATVs are much more common in Russia, not factory ones. Next, we will try to understand why it happens this way and not otherwise.

A self-assembled ATV is a common occurrence

Every day there are more and more daredevils who decided to create an ATV from improvised means and parts of old Soviet motorcycles. Naturally, self-made vehicles are significantly different from the factory ones. And it is often more powerful, but economical. The mass of a homemade ATV usually does not exceed 300 kilograms, which also greatly facilitates its operation.

The names and essence of the main stages of creating an ATV

Final stage and finishing works

The final step in creating a homemade ATV is to install the seats and headlights. In this case, anti-theft headlights are the ideal choice, because the ATV should be suitable for use in any weather. Particular attention should be paid to the number of seats on the ATV and whether the seat is for the driver only or for the driver and passenger.

Finishing work when creating an ATV consists in sheathing the resulting structure with metal and painting.

ATVs, designed on the basis of "Oka"

For 20 years (from 1988 to 2008), in the vastness of our endless homeland, one of the most common cars was the domestic "Oka" (VAZ-1111, SeAZ-11116). Today "Oka" is one of the most popular options for vehicles, on the basis of which homemade ATVs are created. In the manufacture of ATVs, the engine, gearbox, wheels and other auxiliary parts of this vehicle are usually used. Direct assembly and design of an ATV based on the Oka car is carried out in accordance with the drawings created by experienced designers. The defining moment when creating an ATV is the formulation of the purpose of its use. Based on this, the future owner of the ATV chooses one of the two existing variants of the Oka engine (35 hp and 53 hp).

ATVs designed on the basis of the Ural motorcycle

At the moment, a few decades ago, domestic "Urals" popular in Russia were replaced by much more nimble and economical foreign models. In this regard, for many in garages, a still recent best "friend" is idle and rotting. But not a single Russian person is capable of allowing good to be wasted. Therefore, the "Urals" are increasingly used to create a relatively new type of transport for a Russian person. This motorcycle is unanimously recognized by folk craftsmen as the optimal basis for creating an ATV. Homemade ATVs from it turn out to be an order of magnitude more economical and have more tractive power than their factory counterparts.

The creation of an ATV based on the "Ural" consists of two stages: the design of the rear and the front. The use of the "Ural" gearbox when creating the rear part of the ATV will provide the structure not only with strength, lightness, but also with simplicity. As a result, the finished tool will not be equipped with a differential, which, in essence, can be sacrificed in the name of reducing the time spent on its creation. As for the design of the front of the future vehicle, it will take much more time and effort than the previous stage. Most of the work goes into fine-tuning the front levers of the ATV. This is due to the fact that they should be less rigid than that of a car, but more powerful than motorcycle ones.

ATVs built from scooters

A motor scooter (scooter) - a light motorcycle with an engine located under the seat - is an ideal option on the basis of which you can create a homemade ATV. A vehicle created by craftsmen on the basis of a scooter is an excellent alternative to the best factory copies.

It is extremely economical in terms of fuel consumption and at the same time possesses such qualities necessary for an ATV as mobility, light weight and a relatively large carrying capacity. The peculiarities of creating an ATV from a scooter are that the frame, engine, power supply and ignition system must be transferred from the same machine. But the fuel tank of the future vehicle should be a motorcycle tank, and not a scooter one, since it has a significantly larger capacity. The rear and front axles are likely to be borrowed from a cargo scooter, the suspension from the shock absorber of a large motorcycle, and the control from the Oka or any Russian motorcycle.

ATVs, designed on the basis of the "Ant" motor scooter

For 36 years, the Soviet plant "Tulmash" organized the production of scooters "Muravei". In total, over the years, 8 models have been produced, differing in the volume of the gas tank and the power of the engine. Today the Ant motor scooter is an ideal base for making an ATV with your own hands. In order to convert the "Ant" into an ATV, you should perform some fairly simple steps: redesign the frame somewhat, work on reinstalling the seat posts, and so on. The installation of the steering wheel and brakes of the future ATV will require special attention, long-term efforts and time. When constructing homemade ATVs, it is strongly discouraged to use a previously used brake system. It will be much safer to buy a new one. At the same time, the steering system can also be used from an old Muravei scooter or an Oka car. The final stage in the creation of an ATV from a motor scooter "Ant" is the installation of turn signals, headlights and stops.

Instead of a conclusion. Why do many people prefer home-made ATVs rather than factory ones?

    A home-made ATV, in comparison with a serial factory one, is much more economical, lightweight and comfortable to operate.

    When assembling a vehicle with his own hands, the owner takes into account his taste preferences and requirements in the field of functionality.

    Assembling the ATV on his own, the master has the opportunity to carry out finishing work (covering, painting, tuning, the presence / absence of pleasant things), based on his wishes.

ATVs have many advantages over a car or motorcycle, which is why they are so popular today. It is not difficult to buy an ATV today, but it is not quite a cheap purchase, so many can only dream of such an acquisition or make an ATV with their own hands.

If before this time you did not have the necessary skill, then you will have to be patient, since making an ATV with your own hands is not very easy. But on the other hand, if you still achieve your goal and design an ATV with your own hands, a video where you drive around in your unit can become an adornment of the Internet.

The process that you will have to go through to assemble the ATV is quite laborious, but if you put in the effort, all your efforts will be rewarded a hundredfold.

The first thing to consider when designing an ATV is that at the exit, it should be a lightweight, maneuverable and mobile unit that is not very bulky, but at the same time durable. It is worth remembering that the main quality of a good ATV is its cross-country ability, which must be taken into account when assembling it.

Homemade ATVs do it yourself

If you decide - the drawings become the starting point for starting work. On the Internet, you can find a variety of drawings of ATVs, based on different equipment. Here you can also see photos of ATVs that our craftsmen made with their own hands.

Craftsmen do, "IZH", "Ural" or other equipment. For example, if you are planning to make an ATV from Oka with your own hands, you can take a motor - it will cope well with a light ATV. The gearbox can also be loaded from the Oka. If you can turn the engine along the frame and direct the input shafts straight out of the gearbox to the axles, you can get a DIY 4x4 ATV without a transfer case.

The main stages of work on an ATV

A good unit can be obtained on the basis of Soviet-made motorcycles. For example, if you are planning to create an ATV from the "Ural" with your own hands, you can conditionally divide all the work into four stages:

  • Frame modernization;
  • Installation of the engine and transmission;
  • Suspension equipment;
  • Equipment and installation of the dashboard.

By the way, you need to immediately decide on the type of control - it will be steering or motorcycle. In the case of choosing a motorcycle control, you already have the necessary parts from the "Ural", but if you have conceived a steering for your horse, take care of the necessary details in advance.

At the first stage of working out the "Ural" into an ATV, you will have to play with the frame. Although it is the Ural frame that is most suitable for ATVs, it almost always remains unchanged, although this already depends on your drawing. More often it is only scalded with a system for mounting a suspension.

Next, you need to think about the rear suspension and rear axle. There are two solutions to this problem. The first is the creation of a design based on a native cardan and a gearbox. The end result is a lightweight design without a differential. And the second warrant is a design based on an automobile bridge. But if you do not want to have an ATV, you will have to shorten it as wide as the car. Naturally, the process is not easy, but you will get a differential that will not get in the way on the roads.

But still the most time consuming process is the creation of the front suspension. Although you can make it from anything, the ATV is lightweight and therefore reliable levers can be created in any size.

Optional equipment

ATVs are used not only for walking trips, but also as a reliable, hardy assistant in the farm. They are used to transport goods, crops, or are used instead of a small tractor in the garden. And for these needs, it is necessary to somehow place a lot of things on the ATV. If you need an ATV mainly for personal needs or for picnic trips, you can make your own ATV case, in which you can place the necessary things. But for a subsidiary farm, it is better to make a trailer for an ATV with your own hands. If you have already mastered the assembly of an ATV, then it will take you very little time for a small trailer, but it will bring a lot of benefits.

I started working on my project about a year ago. I assembled my homemade ATV mainly after work and on weekends for 2-3 hours, no more.

And now, after 11 months, all the big work was completed (there were minor improvements in the form of electrics, an ignition switch and other little things) and I decided that the prototype was already ready for testing and the first photo session.

The engine for my brainchild was a used motor from the Oka. A two-cylinder, thirty-two strong unit, according to my calculations, should have done an excellent job with a light quadric.

The basis of the ATV was the old Oka

Spatial frame, welded from steel water pipes. The upper and lower pairs of spars are made of VGP-25 pipe (25x3.2 mm) for auxiliary elements (crossbars, struts, etc.), I decided to do with VGT-20 pipes.

All side members are bent on a pipe bender. I bent the lower spars in the horizontal plane, the upper ones in the vertical. I welded the mountings for the levers and shock absorbers right after the frame was made; I welded and adjusted everything else as it was assembled.

ATV drawing

The car is made according to the all-wheel drive scheme, but without a transfer case. This happened due to the fact that the Oka engine was able to unfold along the frame and direct the output shafts from the checkpoint directly to the front and rear axles. To reduce the horizontal angles of the longitudinal hinges, the power plant with the clutch and the box had to be shifted to the left (relative to the longitudinal axis of symmetry).

The homemade transmission is assembled from factory units from the domestic "classics" with some modifications. For example, to increase the torque from the gearbox from the Oka, the main gear pair was removed and replaced with a chain drive. Differential locks and reduced no.

Kinematic transmission diagram

An extended gear shift rod was made, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. It has two fixed positions - one for shifting 1-2 gears, the second 3-4 and reverse.

Cross-axle gearboxes were made from the rear axles of the VAZ. The original axles were redesigned: the axle shafts were removed and replaced by the shafts with CV joints, which I borrowed from the front-wheel drive "classic" model. By the way, I used the same CV joints in the transmission as intermediate shafts.

Management is implemented as follows. The upper part is a lever and a shaft, the lower part is with steering rods, as in a car, but with one bipod. Initially, the steering wheel was used from the Minsk motorcycle, but later it was replaced by the Ural one, due to its great strength. The steering shaft of the upper part is made of a 20x3mm tube with a travel stop at the bottom.
The lower part of the shaft is inserted into the support bearing, the middle part is fixed in the bracket-sleeve. From steel sheet 8mm I made a T-shaped bipod. The bipod ears are bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

The steering shaft is inserted and welded into a 20mm hole at the edge of the rack, and tapered holes are drilled in the ears for the ends of the steering rods and reinforced with welded washers.