Reducing the sound of a car engine in the cabin. Which oil does the engine run quieter on? Noisy and loud operation of the internal combustion engine: reasons

What mistakes do drivers make when changing the oil?

The issue of choosing and changing engine oil is becoming overgrown with a huge number of legends every year. We often forget what oil It is recommended to pour it into the “heart” own car, relying on promising advertising and the “expert” worldview of the garage neighbor.

But experiments on the machine do not always end successfully. It is not uncommon for cases when engine needs repair due to normal wear and tear, but because the car enthusiast wanted to “improve” his work.

Not all oils are created equal

All information about the suitable motor oil specifically for your vehicle can be found in the service instructions. If you don’t have it, it’s better to go to a branded service and get it there reliable information. You can also use reference catalogs.

Each oil has a certain additive set, and, as follows, it is designed for different engines and operating conditions of the car. The wrong set of additives can result in:

firstly, an increase in fuel consumption,
secondly, by reducing power
thirdly, increased engine wear.

That's why when choosing oil, it is important to focus not on advertising of a specific brand, but on the characteristics of the lubricating water itself - the car manufacturer’s approval for oil to the engine (a set of Latin letters and numbers). Make tests better job engine, pouring into it more expensive oil , don't make sense.

It happens that an automaker allows the use of up to several tens of oils of different viscosity classes in a certain engine. In this case, it is important to take into account the operating conditions. For example, VW approval 501.01 allows you to fill in oils from 5W-30 to 20W-50. The 1st option is more suitable for the cool season, the 2nd is perfect for summer. Moreover, in this case there is no big difference whether to use synthetics, semi-synthetics or mineral water.

Additives that are dangerous

If there are first signs that the engine is running not as usual - troits, loss of power, etc., do not rush to fill in supposedly life-saving additives. Adding chemicals can essentially improve some characteristics of the oil, as well as worsen others. Wherein negative effect will certainly affect the operation of the engine, but will the engine start work better - unclear.

High quality oil has an equilibrium additive set, and by adding any chemicals to the composition, you upset this balance. Eventually oil loses some of its own fundamental parameters. IN worst case The engine lubrication system may become clogged. The damage from such pseudo-help can increase the cost of major repairs significantly.

Oil change and engine noise measurement on Renault Duster. 1.6 4x4

There is a worldview that after changing the oil, the engine is quieter. Sinner himself had such sensations. I decided to check.

What Motor Oil The best "Honest Test Drive"

In this part we will talk about what motor oil need to be filled into your engine when it needs to be changed.

However, additives have a clear negative impact on engine quite rare. Basically, the effect from them is completely zero. It may seem to you that the engine is quieter and the car accelerates faster, but in reality this is just self-hypnosis.

Which oil fill: synthetic or mineral

Many manufacturers claim that synthetic and semi-synthetic oils can be changed less frequently than mineral ones. At the same time, they often refer to the fact that mineral oil serves a maximum of 10 thousand km, and synthetics require only one replacement per 20 thousand km.

It seems that more expensive synthetic oil it is more profitable to buy, since the cost is recouped due to the rare change of lubricant. However, this is not quite true. In reality, the timing of engine oil changes is determined by the vehicle manufacturer. For example, on new cars when using synthetic oil Longlife class may require increased mileage. Specified oil really more stable than mineral, namely: it can have better fluidity, resist oxidation, have corrosion resistance and excellent lubricating properties. But if the manufacturer has not indicated what is applicable for a given power unit oil Longlife, you should not pour this fluid into the engine in an attempt to increase the replacement interval.

Many European car manufacturers, indicating that the oil must be changed once every 20 thousand km, they make a special adjustment for use on the roads of the CIS countries and recommend halving this interval. That is, if we consider the issue of economic benefit, buy semi-synthetics and mineral oils preferable: they last the same amount of time, but cost 1.5 - 2 times cheaper. As for inexpensive oil filters, there is no need to skimp here. The fact is that the “Chinese” filter can “crumble” and cause scuffing on the cylinder walls.

Is it necessary to flush the engine when changing the oil?

Engine flushing is not necessary in 9 out of 10 cases! Moreover, this is confirmed by the explanations of the grief mechanics themselves, who strongly recommend this procedure before changing the oil.

The first fact, which the service station employee is trying to prove and which almost every driver believes, is that a mixture of two oils various types will lead to major repairs.

Fact two: completely drain the old oil impossible.

Fact three: it logically follows from the first two - the engine must be flushed before changing the oil.

But flushing is nothing more than pouring oil with detergent additives. This oil it is impossible to drain completely (see fact two), which means that the residues are mixed cleaning oil with fresh lubricating fluid and, according to the first fact, the need for overhaul will soon arise. However, you all know that this does not happen, and engine continues to work properly.

There is no point in washing, and this is just another trick of service station workers to additional income. Majority modern oils mix well with each other, calculating 80 - 90% new to 10 - 20% old. The only case where flushing really wouldn't hurt is when you get into engine foreign liquid. But even then the procedure is carried out using regular oil, which drains after a couple of hours of operation.

As an epilogue: do not believe promising advertising, fill in the oil recommended by the car manufacturer!

Quiet operation of the motor is an integral part comfortable driving. Especially if you have to long trip along the highway. Then loud engine can start to get on your nerves and distract you from the road. Of course, most often it’s a matter of sound insulation. However, if the unit suddenly starts working much louder, there is reason to think about whether there is a problem. Let's figure out what reasons this may have.

The motor is attached to the body using special “pillows”. They are mounts with bushings that are surrounded by rubber. This design is explained by the need to dampen vibrations transmitted to the body. By the way, few people know, but this also affects the noise level.

Like any material, rubber is also subject to wear. Over time, it can dry out, become hard and may even crack. Naturally, in this state it can no longer cope with the function assigned to it and does not absorb vibrations. Therefore, if you notice that in addition to noise there is also a slight vibration, then checking the condition of the engine should start with this element of the system.

The main source of sound in the engine is the gas distribution mechanism. And the loudest noise is from the valves. In order to understand the topic in more detail, it is worth first dividing all engines into those that have hydraulic compensators and those that do not have this element.

In the first case, the sound will come directly from the compensators. If the regulating components are very worn out, or you have not filled in the most best oil, then they will knock. For engines of this type, a lot depends on the quality of the working fluid.

In the second case, as a rule, knocking is heard only when the engine is cold. If you notice that as it warms up the sound does not disappear, then you need to adjust the valve clearances.

Another possibility could be a malfunction exhaust system. Conventionally, the noise produced by this mechanism can be divided into chirping and rumble. If unauthorized car sounds are more like chirping, then the problem should be looked for in the joints exhaust pipe or exhaust manifold. There is a possibility that the problem is a burnt gasket.

But the roar appears when the muffler, catalyst, or there are other rather serious damage. In this case, the pipe can either be welded or completely replaced with a new one.

Photos from Internet resources

The main source of noise in a running car, besides the wheels, is the engine, especially the one found in older cars with defects in the sound insulation system. That is why protection from unnecessary sounds emanating from the engine will allow you to significantly reduce the volume of annoying noises and allow you to communicate in the cabin without raising your voice. You can install sound insulation for the entire interior and some parts of the body without much difficulty. However, you will have to try hard to reduce the volume of the engine.

What makes the noise?

Let's establish what kind of annoying “music” of the engine we will install protection against, because, to be honest, it’s not only the engine that makes noise. The main parts that make sounds:

The engine and its attachments(pump, generator, belts, etc.).
Body lock and hinges (especially if these parts of the car are very worn).
The air that passes through high speed and creates swirls.

Noise insulation motor system must apply to the entire space under the hood, because all of the above parts are necessary for operation vehicle, and internal air flows help cool the motor and also prevent it from breaking down quickly.

Pay special attention to the barrier between the engine and the passenger compartment, because every gap in such a device can cause increased sound volume. Also, noise protection is installed on the wheel arches, because the sound passing through them can be heard by your passengers through the cracks of doorways and other openings in the body.

It is believed that the walls of the engine compartment are good remedy for sound insulation. But there is also a minus: metal, which is not equipped with any coating, cannot absorb sound, only reflect it. Thus, noise vibrations are not “eaten up”, but are directed to another place. Recently, the engine sump has been treated more and more often. Such a part can transmit sound vibrations and does not require rapid removal of excess heat.

We select materials

Be sure to make a list of the necessary products for installing soundproofing. It should include:

Sound and vibration protection.
Glue.
Sharp knife.
Wiping paper (will help eliminate errors in working with adhesion).

Keep in mind the importance of the first point, since the engine creates vibrations in the body, leading to an increase in sound intensity. And vibration protection differs from sound protection in that the first is less dense, and it also has better shock-absorbing properties and a greater thickness of the applied layer.

Most likely you want to know more about the choice of materials. Firstly, you can buy expensive sound insulation, which was invented by the famous car companies, but after spending a lot of money, you may stumble upon a fake. Experienced drivers do not advise spending a lot of money, because any noise protection will wear out due to its close location to the engine. According to experienced motorists, it is best to buy budget materials and, after applying them, treat them with mastic, which increases the durability and reliability of the resulting surface.

Application technique

Ideally, it is better to completely remove the engine and other parts that are in the engine compartment and cover its walls. But this process can only be carried out if you have high level qualifications, so it is best to entrust such work to experienced mechanics.

If you do not want to dismantle the engine, then installing soundproofing will require you to spend a lot of time and physical effort on this process.

Here's what to do:

Lay out all the sheets of finished sound insulation in front of you. If it is single-layer, then purchase additional vibration protection, otherwise initially buy multi-layer sheets.

Take a roll of thick paper (it’s best if it’s whatman paper) and place the material in the engine compartment, attaching the paper to the area that will subsequently be protected from noise.
Carefully cut out the area to create a template and check if you made a mistake when measuring the surface of the body. By the way, if the quality of such insulation is important to you, cut out pieces of the required shape from the soundproofing sheets prepared initially. To do this, attach paper sketches to them, and then trace the contours with a knife blade.
Take special care to get rid of fat on the surface of the engine compartment. Use gasoline to wash the metal parts, and then all you have to do is remove excess fuel with a rag.
After repeating the previous step two to three times, you should apply the glue with a fine mesh, without creating squares larger than 2x2 centimeters in it. If you are working on an engine tray that is subject to constant noise stress, you can apply insulation using a continuous layer of adhesive. If the solution accidentally gets on the wrong part, you need to remove the drops as quickly as possible with wiping paper and wipe this place gasoline. Otherwise, the glue, if it gets on hot motor parts, can easily ignite.
After finishing working with special attention inspect all surfaces and possible irregularities. If there are excess pieces left in some areas, cut them off. And it is best to glue the joints with an additional layer: you just need to cut thin strips (1 - 1.5 cm) and glue them, ensuring good pressing.
Treat the sound insulation with mastic or heat-resistant varnish. This is how you protect sheets of material from exposure to them high temperatures and strong chemicals.

other methods

No need to be lazy, systematically wipe the hinges and hood latch special oil, if this is not available, use WD-40. It is also best to place small sheets of sound insulation; they will prevent even greater propagation of sounds inside the vehicle.

Is the hood not protected from heat? Then cover it with the already familiar insulating material. The process will be similar to the instructions above. But, if there are no stiffening ribs on the cover of the propulsion system, you will have to cut through the noise protection yourself; it will consist of several wide strips. Be sure to apply the adhesive as tightly as possible (when working on the hood) to avoid large loose areas.

But our work is not finished here: noise can penetrate into the cabin through other sources. To prevent this, do the same finishing on the inside of the bottom of the body and the engine shield, which is located behind the front panel. You should also eliminate all kinds of cracks and holes; for this you can use sealing couplings and double-layer seals (for doorways). Such devices will not only muffle noise, but also prevent the entry and accumulation of dust.

Let's start work

Since you are planning to build engine soundproofing for your engine, consider treating the engine compartment. So, you will cover all the walls special material, which will absorb sounds and combat their spread inside the car. Once you're done, remember to check thoroughly. It is necessary to check the quality of work and the presence of errors. Don't be lazy, spend comprehensive work above the car body, so you will really feel that the cabin has become much quieter.

During the operation of a car and other equipment, owners often note that the engine has become loud. As a rule, loud engine operation is more likely to occur when it is cold, and less often an increase in noise is noticeable when it is warm.

At the same time, many car owners are beginning to worry whether this phenomenon is normal or if there are any problems with the engine. In this article we will talk about why the engine is loud, and also in what cases it is noisy. power plant is a sign of a malfunction.

Read in this article

Noisy and loud operation of the internal combustion engine: reasons

Let's start with the fact that even new and fully functional engines can make noise. More often the engine runs loudly “when cold”. However, such work should not be confused with the appearance.

In other words, if you hear characteristic metallic ringing or muffled knocks in the engine, then this means that the engine is knocking. It is not difficult to guess that this is a reason for immediate diagnosis.

If we talk about the general increase in noise level when power unit it runs loudly when cold and/or hot, then this can happen for several reasons.

First of all, you should start with the noisy operation of a cold engine. As is known, the ECU is injection engines until a certain warm-up, it raises the idle speed to achieve stable operation cold internal combustion engine, ensure lubrication of parts with viscous, unheated oil and quickly warm up the catalyst to reduce exhaust toxicity.

Naturally, the clearances in the engine before warming up are slightly increased, and the idle speed is increased, which causes the loud operation of the engine. For example, the gap between an aluminum piston and a cast iron cylinder wall means that shock loads increase slightly as the piston moves from BDC to TDC.

Also, an increase in noise level when the engine is running cold is often associated with. On engines even with relatively low mileage (50-80 thousand km), you can hear it in the first seconds after starting. Usually the reason is that the oil pump is not able to quickly pump the hydraulic fluid into the channels thick oil in a cold internal combustion engine.

In any case, after the engine warms up, the control unit automatically lowers the speed, the oil dilutes, all clearances return to normal and the power unit begins to operate without unnecessary noise. It becomes clear that such an increase in noise and loud operation of the engine when cold is not a malfunction. It is important to understand that if the engine is noisy even after warming up, the engine needs to be checked.

So, in the list of reasons that lead to increased noise during internal combustion engine operation, experts note:

fuel or engine oil Bad quality;
problems ;
Problems ;
malfunctions;
malfunctions;
problems (carburetor, injector);
electrical faults or;

As you can see, the list is quite extensive, and you need to find out as quickly as possible why the engine is running loudly, the reasons for the increased noise, etc. In some cases, ignoring the problem can lead to serious engine malfunctions and costly repairs.

So, let's go. First of all, a decrease in the level of lubrication in the motor will lead to the fact that the parts will not receive sufficient quantity lubrication and the motor will begin to wear out. Also, the oil may not be suitable for the engine in terms of viscosity, being too thick or thin. This means that even if the level is normal, rubbing couples still experience high loads, which manifests itself in the form of noisy operation.

Malfunctions fuel system and engine air supply systems often result in too much or, conversely, not enough fuel/air entering the engine. One way or another, this leads to the fact that the optimal composition is violated fuel-air mixture.

Such problems are caused by air in the power system, leaking injectors, incorrect settings or clogging of the carburetor, air leaks at the intake, contamination air filter and so on. It is quite obvious that the engine is
The “wrong” mixture will not only lose power and run unstably, but the engine can also be quite loud.

ECM malfunctions and electrical problems also lead to unstable work engine, disruption of mixture formation, malfunctions of the ignition system, cooling, engine power, etc.

As a rule, failure of ECM sensors, oxidation of contacts and wiring terminals, breakdown of actuators electromechanical devices and other malfunctions of this kind can lead to the fact that the composition of the fuel-air mixture is disrupted, the fuel charge does not ignite in the cylinders in a timely manner (), the internal combustion engine overheats, etc.

One way or another, the above failures and breakdowns often cause loud engine operation both when cold and after warming up. At the initial stage, as part of the verification, it is carried out, after which the auto electrician additionally conducts separate checks of critical elements and components.

Taking into account the above, it becomes clear that the engine operation and noise level during such operation is sufficiently big influence affects the quality of fuel and oil. Also, all systems must be in good working order and working properly.

At the same time, for more precise definition The owner himself should consider the reasons for when and why the engine began to make noise, what preceded the start of loud engine operation, etc. It happens that after engine repair the source of noise may be any replacement part which turns out to be incorrectly installed or has defects (the shape is broken, there is imbalance, etc.)

Finally, we note that the engine runs loudly even in cases where the gasket burns out or the fasteners become loose. Another cause of noise may not be the internal combustion engine itself, but (power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, generator, etc.). The main thing is that if extraneous knocks, noises, vibrations or increased overall engine volume, quickly accept necessary measures to determine the cause and eliminate possible malfunctions.

What material to choose for engine sound insulation, preparing the car for sound insulation

First of all, the final result directly depends on the quality of the chosen material. It is also important to consider which car you need to get rid of unnecessary noise, ( or ). For example, if the car has a diesel engine, which itself is noisier and vibration-laden, then you not only need to know how to reduce the noise diesel engine, but also take into account the operating features of such a unit.

You should also pay attention to how the engine compartment is implemented on a particular vehicle, what condition the engine and its systems are in. In practice, many insulation materials are based on a layer of foam rubber, which is destroyed if motor oil, fuel, etc. gets on it.

Considering this feature, to insulate the engine compartment on the engine side, materials are needed that are resistant to temperature changes and technical fluids. At the same time, you need to understand that the declared properties of a material do not always fully correspond to reality.

For this reason, soundproofing experts recommend applying mastic, liquid anti-gravel or other similar compounds directly to the surface of the soundproofing layer. Also, before you begin to apply materials, it is necessary to eliminate all problems with the engine and attachments.

Then the engine compartment is inspected to identify cracks, enlarged gaps, etc. If such areas are detected, plugs are placed in certain places, and the hood is also carefully aligned to achieve the tightest possible fit.

As for the materials themselves, it all depends on financial opportunities buyer. However, it is not recommended to give preference to the cheapest solutions from unknown manufacturers. In practice, the materials StP, Butyplast, Izolon Auto, SPLEN, Sylomer have proven themselves well.

Applying sound insulation

Having prepared the necessary materials, as well as eliminating possible problems with an internal combustion engine, you can proceed to installing sound insulation in the engine compartment. You should start by applying soundproofing material to the inside of the hood. The body element simple, easy to access.

To “silence” the hood, it is enough to stick a sheet of noise-insulating material with inside. As a rule, sound insulation is placed between the hood stiffeners.

If the hood design does not provide such ribs, then the sound insulation sheet may come off over time. To solve the problem, you can use lightweight materials or additionally secure the sheet by making holes in it and then fixing the thermal insulation (hood insulation) along the standard holes.

By the way, in the case where there is a free space in closed position, etc.

As for noise reduction of the engine shield, the procedure is similar to noise reduction of the hood. Before applying vibration and noise insulation, the surfaces to be pasted must be cleaned, then the insulating material is glued and, if possible, rolled out (for example, using a special rolling roller).

What's the result?

The result of the work done is sound insulation of the engine compartment partition and hood, which can significantly reduce or even get rid of the noise of a running engine in the cabin when reaching medium speeds (about 3.5 - 4 thousand rpm), at which the car is usually operated most often. It is also appropriate to talk about a certain decrease in the level of vibrations.

It should be understood that partial sound insulation of the engine shield on the engine side and/or on the driver’s side does not eliminate the noise of the wheel arches. In other words, to achieve the best acoustic comfort, you will need to insulate not only the engine shield and front wheel arches, but also the doors, floor, roof, etc.

If we talk about engine compartment, it should be taken into account that when applying sound insulation, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the engine or individual elements under the hood may cool worse. In other words, you should not indiscriminately close off literally all the cracks, as you may need to leave room for air flow. You should also be sure to check the cooling system, which must be absolutely in good working order.

Finally, we note once again that an increase in noise during engine operation is not always associated with poor sound insulation. The engine may be noisy for a number of other reasons: incorrect work, noise from bearings and drives in the engine compartment, or valves, etc.

It turns out that for maximum quiet operation under load and at idle, the power unit must be in good working order, all systems and components must operate as normal. Only in this case, after partial sound insulation, should you expect a noticeable reduction in engine noise.