It lived up to its name and combined what neither a crossover, a station wagon, nor a compact city car could achieve. They even came up with a separate class of cars for it - UAV, Urban Activity Vehicle, that is, a car for an active lifestyle in the city. Ford Fusion built on the basis of the Fiesta and this somewhat simplifies its repair, although even after years, the car holds up strong. There are problems, like every older car, but the Fusion gets around them in its own way. Still, sometimes you need to help him with this.

Main characteristics of Ford Fusion, body and engines

The Fiesta base and the features of a crossover have merged in the Ford Fusion into one ammunition package, which holds together quite tightly. Spacious salon And large trunk The car has gained more fans who don’t really pay attention to the harsh plastic interior. The loading height of the cabin is only 53 cm, and the trunk volume is 337 liters, if the backrests are not folded. Without seats, the trunk space increases to 1175 liters, which is a success for a class B car.

We only had 1400 and 1600 cc engines available, although in Europe they offered two more units - equal-volume, economical turbodiesels. They also come across on our roads, but not as often as officially imported cars. In the base, the car had a standard, simple and reliable 5-speed manual transmission. There was an option to use the robot paired with 1.4-liter gasoline and diesel cars, but he was not particularly in demand. The suspension seemed too intrusive to many when it reminded of bumps, but for a loaded car this was not critical. But the car handled the turns superbly, not inferior to the nimble Fiesta.

Ford Fusion Design Flaws

The most common reason for warranty claims to the officials for owners of gasoline modifications, there was a failure of the ignition coil. In Europe, too, not everything started smoothly, because many diesel cars was withdrawn due to problems with fuel system and fuel injection pump. Cars manufactured in 2003-2004 had common problems with the causeless failure of the ECU, which, however, was immediately replaced under warranty.

The transmission has always been up to par if you follow the maintenance schedule, but on some cars that had to carry heavy loads, ahead of schedule the clutch was burning, also when high loads The head gasket could have burned out. Inductive ABS sensors They don't like dust very much and need to be cleaned often. The interior trim in inexpensive modifications was worn out quite quickly. For the rest, everything Ford disease Fusion is treated as it occurs. We will look at the main reasons for interfering with the densely packed body of the Urban Fctivity Vehicle Ford Fusion.

Changing engine and transmission oil

Actually, everyone who has driven a Ford Fusion 30 thousand km faces an oil change. Drain the oil on a hot engine before it cools down. To access the filter, it is best to remove the engine compartment protection, if it is installed, then complete freedom of action opens up. Removal is simple, just unscrew four bolts. When you unscrew the plug, you should look at the o-ring. You never know.

You won't always see oil streaks under the protective casing. Moreover, the ring does not last forever and can withstand four oil changes at most. And when the protection is installed in place, it is necessary to ensure that the air conditioner tube does not fray due to contact over time.

Ford Fusion transmission service

IN manual transmission The oil does not change, so just check its level. The level control plug is hidden behind plastic casing, which can be removed by releasing four latches. There is another similar nut, it secures the rod, so it’s better not to confuse them. The retainer nut is located slightly below the plug. Do not mix up the nuts, because when loosened, the locking nut will simply loosen the clamps and they will spill into the gearbox housing. Then you will have to remove and disassemble the box. The oil should be at the level of the lower edge of the filler hole, if less, then add only the original oil - WSD-M2C-200-C.

Automatic requires special attention. The oil in it is also supposed to last a lifetime, but you don’t need to blindly believe in it if you don’t want to carry out expensive repairs. Brand branded oil- WSS-M2C-924-A. Usually, vigilant and economical drivers change the oil after 100 thousand mileage, but if during an inspection it smells burnt, it is better not to delay, but to replace it immediately. It will not be possible to drain all the oil without dismantling it, but if about 3 liters spill out, then this is already a success. The same amount needs to be added. Next, let's look at some of the nuances that arise when repairing a Ford Fusion with your own hands on the chassis.

Quite a common procedure in difficult conditions operation - replacing the CV joint on a Ford Fusion. The procedure takes a lot of time, but if you do everything wisely, you can do without unnecessary movements. Grenades with different numbers of splines were installed on the car at different times, so before changing the CV joint on a Ford Fusion, you need to know this parameter exactly. No special tools are required for this, and only strict adherence to the instructions will lead to a quick and trouble-free replacement. It's simple:

Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Typically, replacement of CV joints and wheel bearings is carried out if necessary, and the rear wheel bearing can be replaced if the studs become soured when replacing the rear ones brake pads. This occurs if lubrication and care rear axle not enough attention was paid when undergoing routine maintenance.

Generally, Ford car Fusion is a great helper in big city and does not lose its relevance over time.

For normal operation of FORD FUZEN, changing the oil in the automatic transmission or engine is of paramount importance.

Carrying out these operations in accordance with the manufacturer’s maintenance allows you to avoid many problems and extend the life of the trouble-free operation of the vehicle.

Changing the oil in a FORD engine

Changing the Ford Fusion engine oil is carried out in the following sequence:

• unscrew the neck plug;
• clean the plug drain hole engine crankcase;
• drain the used oil into a prepared container;
• pour in “fresh” oil;
• tighten the cork.

Features of the service “Oil change in automatic transmission FORD”

When creating the FORD FUSION gearbox, the manufacturer did not provide for the possibility of changing the oil, since when operating in European countries factory filling turns out to be sufficient for the entire life of the car.

However, on Russian roads Over time, the oil foams and loses its properties. As a result.

Drain waste transmission fluid It will be easier if you carry out this procedure 20 minutes after the trip. In this case, the oil will not have time to cool and will flow out of the automatic transmission more easily. It will take just 15 minutes to drain.

Who to entrust with maintenance (oil change in automatic transmission, engine, etc.)

2BRO-SERVICE is a company specializing in maintenance and repair auto FORD. We have modern diagnostic equipment, allowing us to identify any problems with cars of this brand, and we use high-quality Consumables and original components.

• We change automatic transmission and engine oil quickly and inexpensively;
• We give you the opportunity to personally observe the work of the technicians on a monitor or in the background, for example, when they change the engine oil;
• We have a staff of auto mechanics with extensive experience in repairing FORD vehicles of all models;
• We provide cumulative discounts to regular customers.

Please note that when repaired by 2BRO-SERVICE, the factory warranty remains valid.

Contact 2BRO-SERVICE to entrust us with the maintenance of your iron horse. We will do everything to ensure that your FORD FUSION is always on the move, and the need for repairs is reduced to zero.

Clutch replacement- a complex and not always feasible procedure at home. The main signs I need to replace the clutch are the following factors: the clutch is slipping, the clutch is moving, you can hear it while shifting gears extraneous sounds, jerking during switching.

Before replacing the clutch you must have the following:

1. Firstly new FordFusion clutch.
2. Socket wrenches for: “8”, “10”, “13”, “15”, “19” and preferably extensions for them.
3. Jack.
4. Empty container for draining oil.
5. Set of hexagons.
6. A couple of screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips).
7. Hammer and chisel.
8. "Magic" liquid WD-40.
9. Graphite lubricant.
10. (while you remove the gearbox, almost all of it will leak out).
11. It is advisable to have an assistant.

Replacing the Ford Fusion clutch - step-by-step instructions

1. First of all, remove the battery using the “10” key.

3. Now you need to dismantle the battery shelf, this is quite simple to do - just unscrew the 3 screws with a “13” key.

4. Disconnect the terminal block, then bend it slightly to the side, pull it up and remove it.

5. Take out the battery shelf, at the bottom you need to unscrew the gearbox mount nut with a “19” key.

7. Using a “10” key, unscrew the 2 bolts securing the pillow to the body.

8. Continuation of work will be under the car. Open the gearbox cover; to do this, use a screwdriver to pry off the latches and cable hinges.

9. The orange latch, slightly recessed, is used to adjust the stroke of the lever; it is not necessary to touch it at all.

10. When the hinges are disconnected, you need to remove the cables. To do this, turn counterclockwise.

11. Unscrew the black plastic, which is secured with 4 screws under the “8” head.

12. At this stage, it is necessary to drain the oil from the gearbox. Install the empty oil container, then take the hex key and unscrew filler plug, as well as the drain plug with a key set to “19”.

13. After the oil has drained, screw the plugs into place.

14. Using a screwdriver, pry up the locking spring and remove the feed tube brake fluid into the clutch slave cylinder.

15. Use a screwdriver to remove the cover covering the terminals, then use a key “10”, “13” to unscrew the starter terminals.

16. Then remove the three starter mounting bolts.

17. Install the jack and raise the car, then remove the wheels.

18. Treat with WD-40 liquid: the ball bolt nut, the nut, and the stabilizer link nut.

20. Press the stabilizer against the lever to remove the strut.

21. In order to knock out the ball bolt and tie rod end pin, use a brass or any other soft metal attachment.

22. When the ball bolt is knocked out, rotate the thermal shield to gain access to the cut steering knuckle. Take a chisel and a heavier hammer and unclench the steering knuckle.

23. Then separate the lever and the stand. Unscrew the nuts. If you are working with the left strut, you can move it back and remove the axle shaft. There is a retaining ring on the left axle shaft, so force must be applied to remove it.

24. Repeat the same with right side, there is really a point - it is necessary to unscrew the intermediate support.

27. This should cause your transmission to separate from the engine.

28. At this stage you will need an assistant, since the box is quite heavy.

29. Now you need to remove the basket; to do this, you need to unscrew the six bolts with a “10” key.

30. Unscrew the release lever, there are 3 “10” key bolts.

31. Using the lubricant that comes with the kit, you need to lubricate the slots of the box.

32. Now you need to screw the clutch to the place of further use. Make sure that the driven disk is strictly in the center.

Further assembly is carried out in reverse order. When finished, fill the oil to the level and bleed the clutch cylinder. Well, don’t forget to check everything after completion. On this DIY Ford Fusion clutch replacement can be considered completed. If you do everything according to the instructions, then everything should work out. I wish you good luck, I hope this article helps you solve your problem.

The Ford Fusion subcompact van began production in the fall of 2002 and lasted on the assembly line until mid-2012. Fusion was developed by Ford Europe based on Ford Fiesta. Fusion's task was to fill the niche between popular models Ford Fiesta and Focus. The car was assembled in Germany, at a plant in Cologne. In 2005, the Ford Fusion underwent a restyling. The changes affected the front and rear bumper, lighting equipment and front panel.

Ford Fusion (2002-2005)

Engines

Ford Fusion has three gasoline engines and two diesel ones. The most modest naturally aspirated gasoline engine with a displacement of 1.2 liters and a power of 75 hp, which appeared after restyling, was not widely used. The most popular cars are with gasoline engines 1.4 l 80 hp and 1.6 l 100 hp Also common diesel version with 1.4 TDCi 68 hp unit Released after restyling, 1.6TDCi 90 hp. occurs less frequently.

In general, all motors are quite reliable, without serious problems. The engines received a timing belt drive with a recommended replacement interval of 160 thousand km. But car services recommend making the first replacement at 100-120 thousand km. Price complete set The timing belt together with the “pump” is about 8-12 thousand rubles. For drive belts mounted units you need to pay about 2-3 thousand rubles more.

On petrol modifications Ford Fusion with 1.4 and 1.6 liter engines there are unpleasant cases of plastic rupture intake manifold. The cost of a new collector is about 15-25 thousand rubles. Incidents are rare and may be related to malfunction ECU and fuel injectors.

The 1.6 liter engine often stalls immediately after starting and starts only the second or third time - “double start”. The reason for this behavior is not clear. Replacing spark plugs fuel filter and cleaning the throttle body and injectors does not help. It has been noticed that “double start” appears in the off-season and when humidity rises. Most owners have resigned themselves and do not pay any attention to the problem.

Ford Fusion (2005-2012)

1.4 TDCi after 100-150 thousand km may require replacement of copper o-rings under the injectors or cleaning the EGR valve. For the cleaning procedure they will ask about 3 thousand rubles, a new valve will cost 12-13 thousand rubles.

The “pump” on Ford engines can leak after 60-100 thousand km. A new original cooling system pump costs about 4-6 thousand rubles, an analogue costs about 2-3 thousand rubles. Around the same time, the radiator may also “siphon.” After 100-130 thousand km, a leakage of the thermostat gasket or a plastic case warped from heating may occur. After 150-200 thousand km, there are cases of cracking of the expansion tank.

Due to deposits on throttle valve after 60-100 thousand km the speed may fluctuate idle move, the engine stalls after warming up, and dashboard The “gear” lights up. After cleaning the valve, the disease goes away.

After 60-120 thousand km, the starter may stop working due to Bendix failure - about 500 rubles. Engine mounts (mounts) last more than 100-150 thousand km. By this time, the catalytic converter may also “bow out”.

Transmission

Three types of gearboxes were installed on the Ford Fusion: 5-speed manual with any of the engines, 5-speed “robot” with 1.4 liter petrol or 1.4 TDCi and 1.6 TDCi diesel, as well as 4 stepped “automatic” with 1.6 liter petrol.

Ford Fusion (2002-2005)

The most common is the 5-speed manual transmission. The box itself is reliable. Clutch disc release bearing, installed on the conveyor, are often given up after 60-120 thousand km. The cost of a new disk with a basket in official services is about 13-15 thousand rubles, and a release disk is about 6-7 thousand rubles. In auto stores, the clutch kit is cheaper: about 9-10 thousand rubles - original disc with a basket, 3-4 thousand rubles - an analogue and about 3-4 thousand rubles - an original release, 2-3 thousand rubles - an analogue.

Many Fusion owners notice the appearance of clicks when pressing the clutch pedal. Clicking sounds are produced by the clutch master cylinder rod - a feature of the unit. Many drove more than 100 thousand km with clicks, but the “main” one never failed. Replacing the GCS does not guarantee that clicks will not appear again soon.

Often, after 60-80 thousand km, the axle drive oil seal begins to leak (300-500 rubles). At the same mileage, the outboard bearing may hum. intermediate shaft right drive. A new original bearing will require about 2-3 thousand rubles, an analogue - 1-2 thousand rubles.

With a mileage of more than 60-100 thousand km, the gear shift lever often becomes stiff, and reverse and 3-4-5 gears are difficult to engage. The situation is especially aggravated with the arrival of frost. To cure, cleaning and lubrication of the gear shift mechanism is necessary.

Ford Fusion (2005-2012)

Robotic and mechanical box gears are completely identical. They differ only in the presence of a servo drive instead of cables and large size manual transmission clutch disc. The clutch life and price range are approximately the same as those for manual transmissions. Here, just like with a manual transmission, you have to deal with the need to replace the drive oil seal and outboard bearing right drive intermediate shaft. In addition, after 70-120 thousand km, there are cases of leakage of the gear selector rod oil seal.

One of the features of the “robot” is the incomplete release of the clutch, which causes the gears to switch with a characteristic sound. With a mileage of more than 50-100 thousand km, problems with operation often arise robotic box due to a broken wire in the electrical harness hanging freely under the unit. To return the box to service, you need to find a break, connect the wires, insulate it well and cover the harness with a protective corrugation. The procedure is simple and does not require large expenses. After 100-140 thousand km, the actuator servo rods may jam. New actuator expensive - about 40-45 thousand rubles. But the serviceability of the servo drive can be restored: to do this, it is necessary to remove the burrs and lubricate the unit.

Complaints about work automatic transmission There are practically no transmissions.

Chassis

The struts are the first to go in the suspension after 60-80 thousand km front stabilizer(300-400 rubles). Rear shock absorbers care for more than 60-100 thousand km. The cost of a new original shock absorber is about 4-5 thousand rubles, an analogue is about 2-3 thousand rubles. Front shock absorbers, as a rule, last longer - more than 80-120 thousand km. Front shock absorber strut will cost 4-5 thousand rubles. Suspension arms rarely wear out up to 150-200 thousand km. After 150-200 thousand km, there are cases of the front spring coil breaking. Steering ends and rods last up to 80-100 thousand km.

Ford Fusion (2002-2005)

Front wheel bearings run more than 60-100 thousand km (2-4 thousand rubles for an analogue), rear ones - more than 80-120 thousand km. Outer CV joint may require replacement after 80-120 thousand km.

There are frequent cases of failure of the power steering pump after 60-100 thousand km. A harbinger of a breakdown is the appearance of a hum. The cost of a new pump from the “officials” is about 14-16 thousand rubles. Because of design flaw after 50-100 thousand km, power steering tubes often begin to leak. The cost of a new tube is about 3 thousand rubles. After 100-150 thousand km, there are cases of steering rack leakage. The cost of rebuilding the rack is about 12-14 thousand rubles.

Body and interior

Quality paint coating Ford Fusion body normal for modern cars: scratches easily and becomes chipped over time. On cars older than 4-5 years, the side door moldings often come off. In cold winters, when you try to open the hood using the radiator grille, the grille mount often breaks.

Water in rear lights may appear due to a leaky seal. Due to clogged drainage holes, water often accumulates in the thresholds.

With regular use, heated side mirrors rarely last more than 60-80 thousand km. After 4-5 years of operation, problems often arise with opening the trunk door due to failure of the electric lock motor. The cost of a new lock is about 3-5 thousand rubles. But many manage to save money by choosing a similar motor. After 100-150 thousand km, the electric motor of the rear windshield wiper drive often fails.

Knocks in the rear of a Ford Fusion may occur due to a cable that has jumped out of its mounting. parking brake, which begins to rattle around the body. Plastic in the cabin often creaks: “crickets” often settle in the front panel and B-pillars. Often, when “rolling” over uneven surfaces, doorways squeak due to seals or door locks.

Ford Fusion (2005-2012)

After 60-80 thousand km, scuffs appear on the gear lever cover, steering wheel and inner door handles.

There have been cases of water appearing in the Fusion cabin. As a rule, one of the following ways of its entry is detected: at the point of transition into engine compartment steering column, electrical harness or hood release cable due to drying out of the seal; due to clogged sill drains and through places where the shock absorber hinges of the trunk door are attached to the body that have lost their tightness.

The heater fan may whistle after 70-140 thousand km. Due to the failure of the thermal fuse (100-200 rubles), the fan speed controller may fail, which will start blowing only at speed 4, ignoring modes 1-2-3. Problems with interior cooling are usually associated with loss of tightness of the air conditioning pipes. The cost of a new original tube is about 7 thousand rubles, an analogue one is about 4-5 thousand rubles.

Often, Ford Fusion owners have to change burned-out exterior lighting lamps every 20-30 thousand km. Most often, low beam and brake light bulbs burn out. After 60-100 thousand km, the steering column switch may fail - the contacts burn out. Problems with the generator occur after 150-200 thousand km.

Conclusion

To sum up, we can conclude that the Ford Fusion is quite reliable car. In any case, you won’t have to shell out money for expensive repairs engine and gearbox. The suspension is not durable enough, but it is not expensive to repair either. In other areas, the picture differs little from most modern cars in this price range.

Need help choosing a car.
A little about what I want: new roomy crossover for a family, with good cross-country ability, 2.0, automatic, four-wheel drive. The rest of those the details are not so important. Budget up to 1500. We do not consider used ones for a number of reasons.
Now we drive a Ford Fusion 1.6 automatic. Up to a certain point I was happy with the car, but as they say, the time has come) It’s time to change. My wife was always not very comfortable, it was noisy and uncomfortable in the cabin. The noise of the fusion is really so-so. But the overall oakiness of the car is compensated by its very serious wear resistance - over 50k of mileage (yes, not much) there were no problems, except that the battery was replaced. At one time they bought a new car.
Why do I need all this - from a new car you want at least no less in terms of “survivability”, but plus comfort and convenience. We haven’t gone on test drives yet, we can’t find the time, but I noticed something like the following list for myself: Terrano, X-Trail, Sportage.
Why Terrano? I just like the design better than the Duster, which is suitable in many respects. But its relative budget for a crossover (whether it’s a crossover is still a question) is a little confusing, and its comfort is questionable. After reading forums and reviews, I understand that my fragile wife may not be very comfortable driving a Terrano. I want something more universal. In principle, there is enough money for the maximum configuration, but, again, there are doubts and fears that over time it will have to be changed. and what’s better now is to pay extra and get a higher class car. Moreover, Terrano’s reputation is so-so, then it will have to be sold somehow.
Next, X-Trail. According to the price it goes for 1700-1800 mid-spec. That it doesn’t fit into the budget at all and you’ll have to take out a loan, I don’t want to at all, to be honest) But it has significantly more advantages, I think comparing it with Terrano is not even very correct. Rather, the question is whether it is worth taking out a loan for this.
X-Trail vs Sportage is another dilemma. Nissan itself is somehow closer, although Sportage is ahead in many goodies for the same price, well, except for appearance, probably.
The RAV-4 is out of the question for rather aesthetic reasons; I want a CR-V, but it’s unrealistic for the money.

In general, I am in deep thought. If anyone has any thoughts, post them.

Wait for the "Twenty-Seventeen" sale
Greetings, comrades!
I recommend you take a closer look:
1) Mitsubishi Outlander
2) Kia Sportridge
3) Hyundai Tucson
*****
Perhaps there is no need for all-wheel drive....how KIA option Soul
*****
Option 1: for the dream Honda CR-V + loan. The larger the down payment, the....(the choice is yours)
Option 2: for Mazda CX-5
*****
It’s no one’s fault that the amount is good, and the economy in the country is like this... Believe me, it’s better to fulfill a dream than Terrans/Dasterixes/Capantures/Carriages - where there’s simply nothing worth as much money as it is now.