The car stove is used very often, in winter we heat the interior, but in the summer we cool it (cold air from the air conditioner). After a long run, and this is usually 80 - 100,000 kilometers, an irritating whistle begins to be heard when the blowing is driven, probably, many have encountered it. After turning off the fan, the whistle disappears. It becomes clear that the stove is whistling, but not the stove itself, but an element for blowing it off. What to do, how to fix it, because driving is really uncomfortable! There is a way out and in 70% of cases you can do everything yourself ...

I want to note right away that now many people write to me about their specific models, namely, Lada Kalina and many VAZ, Solaris, Ford Focus, Skoda. Guys, today I will not disassemble any specific model, all because the disease is treated in almost the same way. I will try to give you something to think about, how and what to do, and I think you can remove the fan yourself, just go to the forums using your models.

How does airflow work?

The device is very simple - in the cabin, under the panel, there is a stove radiator (possibly an air conditioner nearby), which is blown by a special powerful fan. He, as a rule, has several blowing modes, usually subdivided from "1" to "4", the more turned on, the stronger the air flow will be. As it becomes clear, in winter, a stove radiator is used to heat the cabin, in winter an air conditioner radiator is used for cooling.

On new foreign cars, it does not make noise (in the first and second positions it is practically inaudible), or rather, a strong incoming air flow is heard, but there are no third-party sounds. This indicates that the fan is working properly and the entire system is working properly.

If you get a whistle or crackle when you turn on the fan, it means that there is something wrong here, you need to disassemble the panel and remove the fan. Radiators have nothing to do with it.

Major malfunctions

Whistling is already a malfunction - there are not so many of them in this node. It is necessary to say "heater" - either it works or not. If the stove does not blow at all, this means that the electric motor is jammed, or the brushes are worn out. If you still somehow rode with a bang, and then at one point it disappeared, and the stove stopped working, then the engine definitely got up, most likely the problem is in the bearing or bushings.

However, the whistle does not yet mean that the electric motor is failing, it is possible that dirt has simply accumulated there (from a long time of use) and it needs to be cleaned out.

Therefore, in 70% of cases, lubrication really helps, but if you have been driving with noise for a long time, it is possible that the bearing is already worn out. Therefore, as soon as the crackling noise appears and so on, we disassemble the stove and clean it. What else I would like to note on our VAZ, especially on the "classic" instead of bearings, bushings were used, after they were developed, they needed to be replaced, however, many craftsmen still install bearings on the VAZ heater - as I think this is correct!

Parsing - cleaning the fan

As I already wrote from above, in each car, the removal of this device is done differently, but the essence remains always the same, we either have the fan completely removed or there is direct access to it so that the elements can be lubricated.

I WANT to warn - before you remove the electric motor - of the car to avoid unnecessary short circuits.

The fan almost always has the same structure - it is an electric motor and a cylindrical comb (blades) at the top that pumps air. Here's a quick example.

The whistle comes from the motor itself, it has one or two bearings that hold the rotation shaft. If the bearings fail, or are clogged with (annual) dirt, incomprehensible sounds occur - whistling, crackling, humming, etc. There are two options for the development of events:

• Just cleaning ... Diagnostics is simple, try to twist the removed motor - if it rotates difficult sometimes even with familiar sounds, then vacuum the engine, lubricate the bearings - other rotating elements (you can make any silicone grease, sometimes you can use WD-40), clean all the dirt from the shaft.

Usually this is enough in 70% of cases, the electric motor starts to work quietly, easily, without unnecessary sounds. Enough for a very long time of silent operation.

• Repair and replacement of shaft bearings ... Diagnostics - the shaft does not rotate at all. Here the matter is more complicated, you will need to disassemble the engine itself - "look inside it." Long-term improper operation can cause the bearings to jam, they simply break, the balls "wedge" in them. Many can now say - why bother, you just need to buy a new engine! Perhaps this is a fairer observation, but the cost of the heater fan (and as a rule it comes assembled) is not very small. For example, for a private, it will vary, from about 5,000 to 10,000 rubles, which is a lot! And if your car is of a higher class, then the prices grow geometrically. So the replacement of bearings is very justified, they cost a penny.

SO : We unscrew the blades, they are either plastic or metal (often aluminum). In the middle there will be a nut that needs to be twisted, if it was possible to unscrew it but the blades cannot be removed, put them, BUT NOT THE WHOLE engine - in hot water, not boiling water, but not lukewarm (60 - 65 degrees), they can be additionally fixed on boiling water glue it will soften a little, the plastic will expand and you will slowly remove the blades.

Next, we disassemble the electric motor itself, usually two or three bolts (nuts) that can be easily unscrewed. You need to "half" the motor with care so as not to lose all the small parts. After removing the cover, you will have something like this.

Next, we remove the bearings, I will repeat once again - there are often two of them, after which we change. One aspect, as a rule - you will not be able to pick up exactly the same ones as installed on you. However, having removed the parameters of the shaft, or taking the old version - we go to a special store, of which we have a lot in the city - we buy a suitable option.

We simply select by size, take a regular ball bearing, you can even our domestic one - they will walk longer. We put them on the shaft, assemble the motor and rejoice.

The car's stove is very actively used, especially in cold weather. Very often, after a long run, when the heater is turned on, an annoying whistle is heard, which disappears after the fan is turned off, so it becomes clear that the matter is not in the stove itself, but only in the fan.

You will learn what to do if the whistle on Lada Kalina whistles from our article. In most cases, when a whistle appears, the breakdown can be corrected and in more than half of the cases it can be done independently.

The essence of the problem

The heater device is quite simple: a special powerful fan blows onto the radiator, which has several operating modes. If a whistle or noise appears, then the heater radiator has nothing to do with it, most likely, it will be the fan that will have to be removed.

Major breakdowns

Noise and whistling is already a breakdown, it is worth noting that the stove either works or not. If there is no blowing from it at all, then, most likely, the motor is jammed or the brushes are worn out. And if there was noise and then at one point it disappeared and the heater stopped working altogether, this means that the motor has stopped and the bearing or bushings must be checked.

• Then remove all debris from the mounting slot so that it does not fall on your head while removing the fan.
• For further actions, you will have to remove the front passenger seat, otherwise you will need to take an acrobatic pose inside the Kalina's cabin.
• The fan skids are held in place by four nuts that need to be unscrewed. Then open the glove compartment and free it from the contents, unscrew the four self-tapping screws on its back wall and do not forget about one more outside, under the airflow grill.
• Remove the decorative strip from the front right pillar; under it there are two more self-tapping screws that secure the plastic panel and the blower unit. They need to be unscrewed, remove the blower unit and lift the plastic panel, which is fastened with Velcro. Under it you will find two nuts, they will need to be loosened with a socket wrench. Then move the torpedo as far as possible and fix it in this position.
• Sit back on the floor of Lada Kalina and remove, while disconnecting the electrical connector. You will need to move its turbine to a new motor or repair the old one and put it back. Then put the unit back in its place and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

The procedure for resuscitation of the fan motor of the Lada Kalina stove

• Before removing the retainer, mark the position of the impeller relative to the shaft, dismantle the impeller.
• After you get access to the two bolts, you need to unscrew them and open the motor.
• At the top, unhook the anchor lock, remove the washers and pull out the anchor.
• Thus, you will open yourself access to the bushings.
• Clean and lubricate parts.
• At the anchor, wipe and sand the contact plates with the finest grit.
• You also need to clean and wipe the clamping blocks.
• Never lubricate the contact surfaces! Everything should be sterile, clean and shiny.
• Only lubricate strongly rubbing surfaces with graphite grease. But do not use oil or grease for these purposes under any circumstances, as they will leak in the future.

Important! Do not drill holes and pour oil on the shaft and spray WD while removing the cooling hose. It is not recommended to do this, although there are many recommendations on this matter on the Internet. Such actions are dangerous for the motor, they can lead to its failure.

• Assemble the motor in reverse order. Now he will start spinning without squeaks and noises.
• Reassemble all other parts in reverse order.

As you can see, the actions are quite simple, the main thing is not to get confused about what to screw it on during assembly. If problems arise with the noise of the heater fan, try to solve the problem yourself as much as possible. If repair of the problematic part is impossible, then replace it with a new one, and if you still doubt your abilities, seek the help of specialists.

I think that many car owners have encountered such a problem when the alternator belt whistles. This occurs due to the weakening of the tensioner, it is especially clearly detected in wet weather, when a not very pleasant whistle appears from under the hood. The tension is quite simple and does not take much time, and very little tool is required:

1. An 8-ring wrench or open-end wrench, or a ratchet head - will also do.
2. Key for 19

Adjusting the alternator belt on Kalina

The first thing we need to do is loosen the tensioner rod lock nut by unscrewing it slightly counterclockwise:

And then we unscrew the tensioner rod, and thereby the belt will be tightened. So that you do not have to apply a lot of effort during tension, you need to press on the tensioner housing with your hand and at this time unscrew, as shown in the photo below:

After tightening the belt, tighten the lock nut and check for more whistling whistles while the engine is running. To make sure of this, it is necessary to turn on as many electrical appliances as possible with the engine running: high beam, high speed stove, rear glass heating, etc. If the belt does not whistle after completing this procedure, then it is tensioned normally.

But it should also be borne in mind that the hauling will also not benefit the device. Firstly, the belt itself will wear out. Secondly, the bearing will not withstand a heavy load, it will hum and even jam for a fairly short period of time. Once on the last car there was a sad experience, I pulled it too tight and after a week of driving the bearing went under a replacement. So don't overdo it when performing this type of service with your Kalina.

If it is necessary, on the contrary, to loosen, then it will be necessary to twist the stem clockwise. Then tighten the lock nut. That seems to be all the recommendations that you need to know when performing this simple procedure. If you have any questions or have comments on the material prepared by me, we unsubscribe in the comments.

Greetings to you friends on the do-it-yourself car repair site. Owners of VAZ cars are often faced with a situation when the whistle of the alternator belt is heard when the engine is started.

In such a situation, most beginners see only one way out - to replace the allegedly worn out element. In fact, you shouldn't make rash decisions.

Sweet can be caused by a number of reasons that can be eliminated with your own hands and at minimal cost.

Features and possible causes of the whistling of the alternator belt

The main purpose of the generator is to power the electrical equipment of the vehicle. But how is the constant rotation of the rotor ensured?

There are special pulleys on the crankshaft of the engine and the generator shaft, on which the belt is tensioned. After starting the engine, the crankshaft begins to rotate, driving the generator rotor.

The squeak is caused by increased belt friction against the alternator pulley (crankshaft) or normal slippage.

In this case, in practice, the reasons for the squeak and whistle may be as follows:

• Increased belt wear. Sometimes even additional tension does not help.
• Contact with the alternator pulley (crankshaft) or directly the belt of various liquids (antifreeze, oil, and so on).
• Poor quality belt.
• Bearing wear in the generator.

This malfunction most often manifests itself at increased loads. The bearing may whistle or rattle. In such a situation, only a replacement with your own hands or at a service station can help out.

Diagnostics and elimination of the whistle of the alternator belt

Does the alternator belt whistle in the car? - Don't panic. The first thing that needs to be done is to make a small diagnosis. Inspect the belt for obvious damage.

Check if it is well tensioned, there is no obvious displacement of the pulley line. Pay particular attention to the surface of the belt - there should be no liquids on it.

After the inspection, you will be able to draw preliminary conclusions and decide on further repairs:

If the belt is visually damaged, there are serious cracks on the surface, and the edges are frayed, then you cannot do without changing the belt. At the same time, buy only original parts for your VAZ model.

Otherwise, after a couple of thousand kilometers, you will again face this problem. By the way, low-quality Chinese fakes often "whistle" right after installation.

Are there obvious dirt on the belt (oil, antifreeze)? - Carefully clean the belt from excess dirt (if possible). If dirt has eaten into the product and cleaning does not give visible results, then it is better to replace the alternator belt.

If outwardly no problems are found, go to the mechanical part. Check the tension. To do this, press on the belt at the midpoint between the crankshaft and alternator pulleys.

The optimum deflection level is about 6-8 mm. If this parameter turned out to be more or less, you cannot do without adjustment.

Immediately, we note that for each VAZ model, the setup process may be slightly different. We will consider the general case.

Prepare a ratchet handle, a box wrench at "19", a deep head at "17", and also stock up on 15-20 minutes of personal time.

Alternator belt tightening sequence

Using a “17” wrench, slightly unscrew the upper fixing nut connecting the generator to the bracket.

Loosen the fastening nut at the bottom (just unscrew it a few turns).

If you need to loosen the belt, take hold of the generator and pull it towards you (if you need to tighten the belt - away from you). Then it is necessary to tighten the nuts and check the operation of the generator.

Before starting the engine, turn on several main consumers, for example, the stove, high beam and heating. If the whistle is gone, and the charge level remains at a normal level, then the work can be considered successful.

In doing so, remember that over-tightening is also unacceptable (this can lead to increased wear of the pulleys and belt).

There are situations when the alternator belt whistles from time to time, for example, when the temperature drops or the humidity rises outside.

In this case, you can use special additives (sold in standard cans). The method of application is very simple.

Spray the inside of the belt and pulleys. The cost of such products is from 500 to 1500 rubles.

If the generator belt beeps on your car, then you should not rush to the service station right away and make expensive repairs.

In most cases, the problem is solved much easier and in a few minutes. And now you know how to do it. Good luck on the road and, of course, no breakdowns.

Many vehicle malfunctions can be identified by the sound. When there are some kind of third-party noises in the form of rattling, howling or whistling, this may signal a breakdown of one of the car's units. Some malfunctions are quite easily eliminated along with accompanying symptoms in the form of annoying and nasty sounds. But there are certain signs of breakdowns that appear most often. Most often, when starting the engine, a whistle is heard, which can be caused by a number of factors. In this case, such unpleasant sounds can be with an already running motor. Next, we will talk about the reasons for such phenomena and how to eliminate them.

Engine whistle when starting and running

It is always nice to know that your car is fully functional and will not cause inconvenience at the most inopportune moment. However, this is not always the case and many car owners are faced with a number of manifestations of failure of some parts of the car. This makes people doubt their "iron horse", and such a car will obviously not add positive emotions. The most common signal of a breakdown is a whistle when starting the engine. Moreover, not only the owners of old cars, but also practically new ones that have recently left, face it.

A whistling sound can be heard during engine operation due to a number of different malfunctions in the car engine. This is usually not as dangerous a sign as annoying. Although if the engine began to emit such extraneous sounds and the engine whistles more and more, then it is clearly impossible to delay the elimination of this problem. Some neglected faults can lead to costly repairs and a host of problems.

Belts

One of the main reasons for the whistle when starting the engine is the belts of all kinds of drives in the engine compartment of the car. Poor tension and wear leads to the appearance of that very annoying whistle, which can increase with an increase in engine speed. Or maybe, on the contrary, disappear when you press the gas pedal. In any case, the sound made by the belts is very well heard and it is impossible not to notice it.

When a whistle appears, the first thing to do is to check the tension of the drive belts.

The first step is to check the tension of all drive belts. If any of them is weakened, then slippage is possible, which leads to a whistle when the engine is running. In this case, it is necessary to tighten the belt to the permissible limits in order to leave it with normal free play. Dirt and oil on the belts can also cause slippage. In this case, it must be thoroughly cleaned, and it is best to replace it with a new one.

Most often, the trouble in terms of the noise emitted is the alternator belt. A whistle appears when the engine starts and disappears when the engine speed rises, since the belt is in the same amplitude with the rollers and pulleys. This can threaten an insufficient battery charge and all the ensuing problems. It also happens that the engine whistles, and then suddenly stops making this sound. At the same time, no changes are immediately observed. And the reason for this may be a break in the alternator belt. After it breaks off, charging the battery while the engine is running stops. This is usually signaled by a special light on the instrument panel, but not all drivers notice it and attach any importance to it. Such inattentive car owners risk being left somewhere in a deserted place with a dead battery.

Another most common cause of whistling from the engine compartment of a car is. Here the consequences of ignoring the problem can be much more serious than in the previous case. The problem here is not so much in the belt as in the bearing, but you should definitely pay attention to this. A break in the timing belt may be followed by a major overhaul of the motor due to bending of the valves, which costs a lot of money. Therefore, it is necessary to react in a timely manner to all kinds of whistles during engine operation and not to bring the situation to extremes. This does not apply to all types of motors, but the real problem is widespread.

In most cases, the whistle in the engine on a cold one is caused by the same belts. If it disappears when the engine warms up, then the reason is definitely in them. In the cold season, there is a chance that the grease in the alternator belt bearing can thicken strongly and the belt will not be able to rotate the alternator pulley, simply slipping. The solution to this problem may be to replace this lubricant and tension the alternator belt. But before that, you need to make sure that the alternator pulley spins by itself and does not jam. Therefore, as you can see, whistling on a cold engine is quite easy to eliminate.

If you hear some kind of whistle when starting the engine and subsequently during its operation, then first of all pay attention to the tension of all belts in the car engine and check their condition. It is possible that some of them need tensioning or replacement.

Rollers and bearings

Other elements of an automobile engine that can make unpleasant noises are all kinds of bearings and rollers that are present in many motor assemblies. Often, in the event of a malfunction, they emit sounds a little different from the usual whistle - a low-pitched howl. This sound appears when the engine is running even at idle, but increases with increasing speed and immediately disappears or becomes much quieter. If you have determined that the engine whistles precisely because of these elements, then it can be "cured" by replacing the failed parts.

Intake system malfunctions

If a whistle is heard while the engine is running, and you have already made sure that the reason does not lie in something else, then, most likely, some kind of malfunction has appeared in the engine intake system. This can be either the throttle valve, which periodically gets stuck and creates specific air turbulence, or the PCV intake valve, which is responsible for recirculating crankcase gases.

In the first case, the whistle during engine operation is eliminated by thorough flushing. But in order to clean it well of dirt, it is necessary to completely remove this unit, which should not be forgotten.

In the second case, the problem is a clogged intake PCV valve. Hot air from the crankcase cannot circulate normally because of this, which leads to the squeezing of oil through the seals due to excessively high pressure and the appearance of the very whistle when the engine is running. The real problem is "treated" by ordinary cleaning of this valve. To do this, you need to dismantle the valve, which is located either on the valve cover or next to the air filter on the crankcase ventilation pipe. If the valve is metal, then all cleaning products that will not scratch the surface are perfect. In the event that it is plastic, then too aggressive aerosols and liquids should be avoided. After that, just put the valve back in place and the whistling will stop.

Turbine malfunctions

Many modern cars are equipped with turbochargers, which significantly increase their power and driving performance. But this is another node in the engine, which can signal its malfunction with a characteristic and loud whistle. This can be caused by an air leak at the junction between the motor and the turbocharger. Usually such sounds indicate the imminent "death" of this important detail. Most often, this malfunction occurs on vehicles that consume diesel fuel. Therefore, the owners of such cars know that the whistle of a diesel engine turbine does not lead to anything good.

What to do when a whistle appears from under the hood?

We have listed all possible malfunctions in which the motor and its components may whistle when the engine is started or when it is running. To eliminate most of them, the car owner does not need to have any special professional skills. The replacement of many belts and rollers, their tension, as well as the cleaning of the elements of the intake system can be handled independently. But if you are not sure that you can cope with such problems, then it is better not to delay with them, but contact the car service to the masters of your craft and then you can avoid much more expensive repairs and a lot of unnecessary troubles that can overtake you by surprise.