A question from a reader:
« Good day. On your site I found very informative information for myself on... Although I haveFOCUS of the second generation, the replacement principle is almost the same. Thank you author for such a detailed article. But my question is - what are stabilizer struts on a car for? After all, there were no such devices on our domestic cars before! I take a VAZ, starting from the VAZ 2101 and ending with the VAZ 2114, I don’t know now, maybe they are already installing it. After all, they went and did not turn around. So why are they needed at all? I was looking for it on the internet, but there is a minimum of information. Tell me, please. Thank you if you don’t ignore my question, Artem»
The question is really interesting, I will try to answer you ...
Artem, you are a little mistaken, there were and are stabilizers on the VAZ (even on rear-wheel drive ones), but they are not the same as you are used to seeing them now on foreign cars. Previously, the body was stabilized by rods and bushings, conditionally they can also be called racks. Here is a short video on front-wheel drive VAZs (for example), part of the stabilizing struts, but that's not all.
Progress does not stand still, technology is developing, becoming more perfect, vehicle speeds are also becoming higher, and therefore the suspension is being modified. The main requirements are that it must be strong, comfortable, safe and must hold the road well.
Many manufacturers not only improve the suspension, but also make it easier to maintain. Therefore, now on many "budget cars", of which there are a lot around the world, they began to install, they are not only simple, but also meet many requirements of manufacturers. But for such a suspension, stabilizer struts are required, they are simply part of this design. Moreover, this is only part of the body stabilization, there are many other elements.
So what if there were no racks at all?
This is difficult to imagine. It would turn out that the car body lives its own life, and the suspension its own. Body stabilization is needed to tie the body and suspension together and at the same time improve the dynamic performance as well as the safety of the vehicle.
Imagine - when accelerating, the car rolls back hard. When braking - sharply forward, and when cornering - to the side. If they were not there, then the speed of cars would be several times lower, cars would fly out in corners, and it would be difficult to move on wet (rain) or slippery (ice) surfaces.
The need for body stabilization was not born hourly, it was developed over the years. The body and suspension work as one unit to evenly distribute the load as the body rolls. The struts also hold the suspension, combining it into one mechanism. Of course, it is difficult to understand in words, watch this video, even though the suspension is in miniature here, however, the principle is very clearly visible.
In particular, if there were no stabilizer struts (bones), then the car would behave much worse under lateral loads - turns, obstacle detours, etc., and they help during acceleration and braking - preventing the body from swinging.
So no matter how it seems that these "bones" are unnecessary suspension parts, they are not! They are very useful! Another question is the quality of these elements - for example, on French cars, the stabilizers begin to knock after 30,000 kilometers, and they knock so that it seems as if the suspension is falling apart and needs to be changed. But that's a completely different story.
I think it became clear what and how!
Very often, novice car owners are faced with the problem of misunderstanding why a stabilizer is needed, in principle. To explain what the rack itself is, you need to understand the structure of the entire "bar". In technical terms, the correct name for it is the anti-roll bar, for example, it has different types at the back and front, see the photo for more details. It is necessary in order to reduce the horizontal roll of the car body, when driving, especially when cornering. As for the racks of the "rod" themselves, they serve to install the latter on the frame. This provides a "live" connection of the elements with the hub or swivel "fist".
Stabilizer bar (bone) on the example of Skoda Fabia
Types of stabilizer struts
Remember that depending on the configuration of the suspension, the shape of the struts and even the principle of attachment to the car body change. It is also necessary to distinguish between some of the features of the front and rear struts, in different car models. In models where the suspension at the rear is a multi-link configuration, usually "bones" are used - these are U-shaped figures with hinges at the edges. There are also "eggs", as they are called by the common people. They are used, for example, on domestic VAZ, for attaching the front and rear stabilizers.
Device
Often, the rack is a rod from 4 cm to 20 cm. There are special hinges at both ends of the "bone", which provide a "live" fastening. There are many options and varieties, for example, it can be only two bushings (rubber bands), a threaded hinge, or a hinge and a bushing. Also, do not forget about "eggs", where a rubber or polyurethane sleeve is used instead of hinges.
Please note that the structure is not one-piece and is welded to the stem. This is a kind of security element. By the way, the place where the weld seam is located is called the “neck”. That plane is made thinner so that in the event of serious overloads on the car, the break occurs exactly there. Otherwise, it is impossible to predict exactly where the bummer will occur, and then, breaking, the "bone" can easily break through the bottom.
this is the structure of the hinge-type rack
In modern cars, articulated struts are often found. The design is a steel ball with a "pin" and "socket", where the grease is contained in the plastic body. The "finger" itself, as a rule, is pressed in, different manufacturers have their own peculiarities, someone makes plastic plugs, and someone makes metal. In our conditions, it is difficult to say exactly what is beneficial. Plastic does not lend itself to corrosion, and the metal plug after winter can rot and collapse, rendering the mechanism unusable. Especially if the boot is torn. This is a kind of protective elastic that protects the hinge from dirt, sand, moisture.
To understand the principle of operation, you need to remember that the connection is not rigid, that is, movement occurs there, but in a limited "circle". For example, when a car enters a bend, it naturally rolls. At the same time, it is necessary to distinguish that the effect on the body and suspension is of a multidirectional nature. Thus, if this is not compensated for, there is an increased risk of damaging the “bone” eyelet or else. Simply put, "bone" - plays the role of a kind of damper that "dampens" the impact on the suspension.
Almost the same situation is with the "eggs", which also provide "live" attachment of the rack and stabilizer. For example, in a design that uses eggs, the upper bushing allows the stabilizer to take the desired position, “removing” the roll from one side to the other.
By the way, many probably did not know, but there are even electrically controlled racks, which, thanks to stability systems and complexes, block the "bones" at the right time. As a rule, I use such mechanisms on premium models.
Main symptoms and malfunctions
So, you can even make a small list of signs that may indicate a failure:
A knock that appears when driving on uneven and bumpy roads, provided that the hinge "bone" is installed. If the mechanism is with bushings, it is rather difficult to determine on the fly, because in this case, the sound is quiet and it is not realistic to hear it in the cabin.
The need for constant steering.
The car began to roll much more heavily in corners.
Strong body swing during sudden starts and braking.
Often, malfunctions are associated with hinge mechanisms. One of the first problems is the destruction of the anther. As a result, the hinge gets clogged and wears out. An equally common problem is also the banal erasure of the tip on the "finger" (ball). As a result, he beats in the "nest", gradually destroying the "clip" itself.
In principle, the repair is not difficult, but taking into account all the costs, the purchase of a completely new part is much cheaper. Therefore, it is easier to replace it with a new mechanism.
Much less often the "plug" fails, which ensures reliable fixation of the ball in the "socket". From the above, we can conclude that the basis for the long operation of the rack is the correct operation of the machine, as well as periodic diagnostics of the unit. Particular attention should be paid to the protective "cap", meaning the boot.
With "eggs", as a rule, problems are associated only with the "eaten" elastic band, which is why the stand itself and the stabilizer interact directly, which is why a characteristic knock appears. Less often, the rack breaks at the welding points.
How to check the functionality and serviceability of a part?
Checking the health of the hinges is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In principle, with regard to the suspension, the "bone" is the most diagnosed node. There are several simple ways to check:
1. Try to rock the car, but keep in mind that you need to swing laterally, away from the movement. If you manage to swing the body without much effort, then the first "swallow" that the problem with the "bones" is not far off. Moreover, during the buildup, depending on the degree of wear, even a characteristic knock can be heard.
2. The second method is somewhat "technologically advanced", you have to turn the wheels to the side. Thus, you have direct access to the rack, you can check the backlash with your hand. However, you need an assistant who will swing the car. A little clarification, one person checks with his hand, the other rocks the car.
Look at the condition of the anthers, if they are damaged, then it is likely that the racks will not last long. In theory, you can buy anthers and replace them, but in fact, it is cheaper to purchase a ready-made kit. In addition, pay attention to oil drips, if there are any, it means that there is a high probability that there is almost no oil left there. Especially these facts help when buying, please contact here first of all when checking this site.
3. There is another way, but this will take a little work. By the way, this method is useful for those who do not have access to the racks, even with the wheels turned out. You will have to remove the wheel, substitute a reliable ledge under the ball joint in order to "unload" the stabilizer itself. Thus, you have direct access to the mountings, where you can easily determine whether there is a backlash or not.
If the car has racks of a cheaper class, with bushings, then it is much easier to determine their wear. Literally you don't need to do anything, you just need to look at them, if the rubber is "a little bit", you can safely change even some bushings. If neglected, then soon, metal elements will come into "direct" contact.
In Soviet-made cars, the elastic bar of the anti-roll bar was attached to the arms and the body rigidly, on brackets. In the modern design of the front suspension, which has undergone modernization, an intermediary has appeared between the moving elements and the rod - a strut with hinge pins. It will be useful for every motorist to know why it is installed there and what role it plays, since this part has to be changed often.
Structure and purpose of racks
The stabilizer, which is an elastic metal rod, connects the car body and front suspension elements on both sides - steering knuckles or hubs (depending on the car brand). Its function is to prevent the suspension from acting out of order when cornering and in this way to prevent the roll of the car body.
In older multi-link types of suspensions, the cross bar could be rigidly attached to the lower arms, which only oscillate up and down. In such mechanisms, the stabilizer struts were not needed, since its ends were pressed with brackets, and rubber bushings served as dampers.
In the MacPherson-type undercarriage, installed on most new cars, it will not be possible to fix the traction motionlessly, because the hubs and knuckles rotate with the wheels. The hinge elements that connect the rod to these moving parts are what the stabilizer struts are.
The part is a metal rod with a length of 50 to 200 mm (depending on the car model) with hinge joints welded at the ends. The latter are similar in structure to ball bearings, only of a smaller size. The threaded part of the upper ball pin enters the mating socket of the steering knuckle and is screwed on with a nut. The bottom of the rack can be attached to the stabilizer in the following ways:
- using the second hinge;
- on the silent block included in the traction eye.
Two such elements are used in the chassis of a car - one on each side. Moreover, in some models they are made of different lengths and therefore cannot be swapped. The design of the racks is also different:
- with two hinges located symmetrically;
- with a ball pin on one end and a thread on the other;
- with hinges rotated at a certain angle relative to each other.
A healthy car must confidently keep a straight line during acceleration and deceleration. , what the racks affect. If deviations appear in this respect, then it is necessary to diagnose these elements and replace them in case of wear.
Parts Failure Symptoms
It is not enough to understand what the stabilizer struts are, you need to detect their malfunction in time, because inoperative elements negatively affect the controllability of the machine. Deterioration of parts can be determined by the following features:
- The body of the car begins to roll more strongly in turns.
- It becomes noticeable that the car makes a large arc when driving around an obstacle.
- With intensive acceleration or hard braking, a slight body skid is felt.
- With a sharp rotation of the steering wheel or the passage of "speed bumps", a dull knock is heard from the front of the suspension.
One of the most reliable ways to diagnose racks is to conduct a "moose" test... The bottom line is to go around the unexpectedly appeared obstacle - the conditional "moose" at a speed of 40-50 km / h. You need to choose a platform free of movement and put a couple of plastic bottles in a convenient place. Then accelerate to the specified speed and try to go around them sharply.
If during the execution of the maneuver the front of the car rolls strongly and "yaw" to the sides, and a clear knock is heard from the chassis, then the struts must be replaced immediately. In some cases, the car makes such a wide arc during the detour that it can skid.
You can make sure that the stabilizer struts are needed for replacement by using the traditional diagnostic method - manually swinging the parts. To do this, you need to perform the following actions:
- Fix the machine with a hand brake.
- Turn the front wheels all the way so that you can reach the right or left pillar with your hand.
- Grasp the rod near the ball pin and actively shake it in different directions. To be sure, it is worth prying the hinge with a mounting blade, so the backlash inside the bushing is revealed.
If a noticeable backlash is found, the element must be replaced.... Due to bad roads in the territory of the post-Soviet countries, the racks constantly experience high loads and rarely serve more than 20 thousand km. Fortunately, these parts are inexpensive and change quite quickly. If you wish, you can put new parts on your own, having the usual set of locksmith tools, a jack and a puller for pressing out ball pins.
Worn out stabilizer struts do not impede further movement, but only worsen the controllability of the machine. Even a finger that has jumped out of the bushing allows you to move on under its own power. This is used by negligent motorists who do not pay attention to the suspicious behavior of the car and the knock of the suspension. Driving in this manner is dangerous and at high speeds can lead to loss of control and accidents with unpredictable consequences.
It is one part of the chassis system designed to provide lateral stability to the vehicle body. Every car owner should be aware of the main malfunctions of stabilizer struts how to check them, as well as replace the rack. This is necessary to carry out timely repairs so that other, more important, suspension elements do not fail due to the rack.
Also, many car owners are interested in the question of which racks to choose? Which manufacturer should you give your preference to? At the end of the article, you will find a brief summary based on real feedback from motorists who have used certain stabilizer struts. About this and not only we will tell you in this material.
Articulated stabilizer link diagram
What is stabilizer post
Many, especially beginners, car owners are interested in the question - stabilizer struts, what is it? To begin with, we will describe in a nutshell what the stabilizer is and what it is for. So, the anti-roll bar is needed to reduce the horizontal roll of the car body when cornering and various deviations in the horizontal plane. And the stabilizer struts are used to attach the latter to the car body. It provides movable connection elastic stabilizer and hub or steering knuckle due to existing hinges. Depending on the design of the suspension, the struts can also be different.
Various types of anti-roll bar
Structure and operation of racks
Usually, rack - this is the stock length 5 ... 20 cm. There are hinges at both ends providing a flexible connection. It can be either two ball joints, or a joint and, or two bushings, or a joint on one side and a thread on the other. They are usually welded to the stem at or near a right angle.
There is a thinning (“neck”) in the place where the tip adjoins the metal rod. It serves as a kind of fuse. In the case when the mechanism is experiencing exorbitant loads, its body will break exactly in this place. Otherwise, the strut can break anywhere, breaking through the bottom of the car and causing harm to passengers or other mechanisms.
It is for safety reasons that the racks are not made too thick, which is why they often fail. Although non-original parts have a slightly larger diameter, which is a kind of compromise between safety and durability.
Articulated rack device
The most popular currently are racks using ball joint... Its design consists of two parts - a steel ball pin and a plastic seat with temperature-dynamic lubrication. From above, the finger is pressed in with a plastic or metal cover.
Swivel joints are always protected with sealed anthers with lubrication. It provides a softer operation of the mechanism, and also increases its service life. The lubricant is frost-resistant, ensuring normal operation of the vehicle's chassis in winter.
Sealed boot
To better understand how the rack works, you need to remember that it not tough connects to the stabilizer, providing limited movement of the elements combined into the mechanism. When the car is turning at speed, it naturally rolls. In this case, only forces act on the body, and on the suspension - directed in the opposite direction. If they are not compensated for, then there is a risk of breakage of the mating elements - the stabilizer and the hub lug. Thus, Front stabilizer - this is a damper, which accepts and extinguishes large multidirectional efforts. However, in the process of work, under the influence of the mentioned forces, a gradual destruction of the hinge joints occurs. As a result, the racks become unusable.
Some foreign automakers produce adjustable anti-roll bar (for example, the Nissan Patrol GR has an electronically deactivated anti-roll bar). There are also SUVs in which the work of the stabilizer and its struts is controlled by an ECU.
Stabilizer link malfunctions
Let's take a closer look at what kind of malfunctions of stabilizer struts most often car owners have to deal with.
Signs of malfunctioning racks
So, the main signs that indicate that the stabilizer struts are completely or partially out of order are:
- If a rack with a ball joint is installed in the machine, then in 90% of cases the main sign of its failure is knocking when driving on uneven roads, in particular, when crossing over speed bumps. Naturally, the knock is heard from the side of the wheel where the rack is out of order. If the stand is on the bushing, then the diagnosis is more difficult to carry out. In this case, the knocking may be quiet and not be heard in the cabin.
- When driving on a flat road, the car starts “ to drive”, That is, it is difficult to keep it in a rut, it is necessary to steer it constantly.
- When entering a turn, the car heels much more than it was before.
- Superfluous body swing vehicle during acceleration or braking.
Typical problems
Failed strut hinge
The main problems are associated with hinge mountings. The first is boot failure... This causes dirt and debris to enter the mechanism, leading to excessive wear. The second common problem is that over time ball pin clip is erased, as a result of which the ball pin begins to "beat" in the seat. This leads to its breaking.
Rebuilding a broken rack is difficult and requires factory equipment. In particular, it is theoretically possible to replace the ball pin or bushing. However, this work will be costly and will exceed the cost of a new rack.
That's why repair of stabilizer struts is impractical... It is much easier to replace them with new ones. Currently, a large number of non-original, but high-quality spare parts are sold at car markets. We will talk about them below.
How to check the stabilizer struts
Checking the ball joint struts is straightforward. The easiest method is rock the car from side to side in a direction transverse to the movement of the vehicle. If the swinging occurs without effort, this is the first sign that the hinge group is out of order or is close to it. If the strut is faulty, you will hear a familiar, characteristic knock from the side of the wheel.
Second method. It is necessary to completely turn the wheelset to the side. After that, you can get directly to the counters. Check for backlash with your hand.... Rock the machine by yourself or with the help of an assistant. If there is a gap, you will feel it by touch. If, when turning the wheels, there is no access to the racks, drive the car into the inspection hole. This will ensure you get the access you need. The rest of the procedure is the same - one person rocks the car, the other feels and listens to the racks.
When checking it is obligatory pay attention to the condition of the anthers... If they are torn or there are oil drips under them, there is a high probability of significant or complete wear of the stabilizer struts. This is especially true if you bought a used car. If in poor condition, check the racks too.
When using another method, it is necessary to remove the wheels from the machine, having previously jacked it up and substituted a reliable ball stop in order to relieve the stabilizer. This will give you access to the rack mounts. Next, you need to unscrew the upper mount (nut) and make similar loosening in order to make sure if there is a sound from the lower mount. If you have one, you will have to change the stance.
If your car has struts on the bushings, then it is even easier to diagnose them. To do this, it is enough to visually check whether the rubber is not “eating up” on one side. Indeed, otherwise, metal parts will come into contact and a natural knock will occur.
Note! Currently, there is no special equipment at car services that would show that it is the rack that is faulty. Therefore, before you go to the service station, carry out an independent diagnosis or ask an experienced master to help you. Otherwise, there is a risk that the masters will take extra money from you for eliminating non-existent “faults”.
How to change stabilizer struts
It should be noted right away that the replacement of the stabilizer struts will differ for different brands and models of cars. But as a rule, the procedure is not difficult and is available even for inexperienced car owners. To do this, you need to have a jack and locksmith tools - keys, hexagons, a pry bar (depending on the model of the machine). The front and rear struts are different for most cars. The front ones are long, the back ones are short.
The first thing to remember before starting work on replacing struts is that the axle of the car where the spare part is supposed to be replaced is must be fully posted, that is, the stabilizer and the strut must be unloaded. This can be achieved by jacking it up on one side, and then placing the ball on the stand. Otherwise, even if you can dismantle the old rack, you will not install the new one correctly. Statistically, this is the main cause of premature rack failure.
In the process of replacement, in no case do not damage the anthers... If they are in poor condition, replace them. Indeed, the service life of the rack directly depends on their integrity.
Remember that after replacing the stabilizer struts, the camber check does NOT need to be done as it does not affect the wheel angles.
Replacing the front stabilizer bar on a Ford Focus
Diagnostics and replacement of struts on TOYOTA RAV4 2002
Choice of stabilizer struts
Many of the car owners are interested in a reasonable question - what are the best stabilizer struts? It should be said right away that there is no definite answer to it and cannot be. There are many reasons for this. First, it depends on the make of the car. Secondly, it depends on whether you are using an original spare part or a non-original one. Also in this case it is worth considering the quality of the roads. For example, if the original import rack of a foreign car is intended for operation on European roads with a mileage of, for example, 50 thousand kilometers, then in our conditions it will be much less.
Recently, plastic stands have appeared on the market. They fully meet the declared characteristics and are safe, since in an accident they are completely destroyed without causing harm to the car and passengers.
Why stabilizer struts die and what to look for when buying
The main thing is to choose those racks that are intended for your car by the manufacturer. First of all, it concerns the size... After all, even 1-2 centimeters their length can play a critical role during suspension operation. Interchange of racks from different models is possible only within one automaker(for example, Ford Focus struts are also suitable for Ford Fiesta, Ford Escort, Ford Ka 1995-2001). This information is usually indicated on the packaging of new stands. Be sure to pay attention to this when buying.
Best stabilizer struts
We have collected information on popular manufacturers on the Internet stabilizer racks, reviews about which we provide for you.
LEMFORDER(Germany). A reputable company that produces spare parts for such car brands as General Motors, Mitsubishi, Toyota, Opel, VW, Mercedes, Audi, BMW, Volvo, Ford, Fiat and others. The products are of excellent quality and innovative technologies used. Note! Sometimes Lemforder packaging may contain racks CTR... Please check this when purchasing.
| Positive reviews | Negative reviews |
| One of the sellers did not recommend trying Lemforber products, they say they are cheap and not bad. Compared to other manufacturers of aftermarket parts, the Germans were at their best. I put their racks on Opel Omega B, Opel Vectra C, now I put them on Hyundai Santa Fe NEW. | Lemforder does not manufacture anything for Japanese and Korean cars, but only packs third-party parts. In 2000, Lemforder was absorbed by ZF, since then, apparently, everything has deteriorated. |
| Yes, the spare parts of this company are distinguished by their quality and durability. How many times did they put them on their cars, they surprised me, they walk long enough, at least 30-35 thousand, I think you will pass. | Ordered by LEMFERDER; six months passed, they knock again. By the way, in the summer of 2014 I changed one steering tip, also for LEMFERDER, so the cranks came to his skin in six months. |
TOPRAN(Germany / China). The company is packer various parts produced in different countries of the world (a total of 23 countries, including China, from where most of the spare parts are). Therefore, when choosing, you must look at the country code on the packaging where the part is produced.
SASIC(France). All parts are manufactured in Normandy (France). They are used for French cars (Renault, Peugeot, Citroen). They differ in quality and low price.
| Positive reviews | Negative reviews |
| Before that there were "Chinese", they burst after 10 thousand. I decided to buy Sasik. I liked that the case is so massive, I don’t know. shorter walk so far. Already 15 thousand | After 5 thousand km, they sagged and it was already visible, in my car the top of the rack mount rises above the glass when the support slips. I must say that my ground clearance is quite large, the thrust bearings worked fine, so in this state I drove about 20 thousand km more. |
| What pleases me is the price. One hell will knock early or late. why overpay? I have Renault Logan. They stand for two months - the flight is normal, there is no knocking. | In general, 2 weeks ago I changed the stabilizer racks to Sasic, not a cheap analogue at all, it seems to be popular, today I went to the service on business, they lifted the machine, as usual I walked around the podvesochka and found out that my brand new stabilizer racks had burst !!! BOTH!!! Kick-ass, comrades, no words !!! |
GMB(Japan). A Japanese company that produces spare parts mainly for Japanese and Korean cars (but not only) - Toyota, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Hyundai, Kia, Renault, Suzuki, GM. Differs in original Japanese quality.
CTR(South Korea). The company, which at one time separated from the Japanese GMB. Currently, it produces spare parts for such vehicles - Hyundai, KIA, GM, FORD and many others. Differs in quality and low price.
| Positive reviews | Negative reviews |
| I bought the racks two months ago, I am very pleased with the racks, they hold them well, nothing crunches on the jars, nothing flies. I advise these racks. stands easy installation, the price pleases, and the quality. | A friend had these for about 2-3 months, then it just cracked and that's it, which I bought from me for 8 months without any problems, although these are even more expensive. In general, if there are no more options, then for the first time it will do, but you still have to look for a replacement later. |
| The stabilizer racks are only a Korean mtr not worse than the original by one hundred percent. advantages: increased resource of use, adequate price compared to the original stabilizer struts, excellent stability on the road, always available in auto parts stores | Good afternoon. I put the stabilizer struts on FF2. Gone 10t. km (in 1 year) knocked, anthers exfoliated. The ride is neat. I will not put such more. I read a lot of positive reviews, I took it in exist, is it really a fake? |
Sidem(Belgium). One of the world leaders in the production of auto parts for steering a wide variety of vehicles. It has official representations in 80 countries of the world. However, there is a possibility of buying Chinese-made spare parts that do not differ in quality.
| Positive reviews | Negative reviews |
| Provided that you find the old Belgian problems, there will be no problems. | In general, sidem has been manufacturing suspension parts for a long time, and I had to purchase their products. Before - everything was good. But in the last year I have a persistent disgust and distrust for them. Previously, spare parts served for a really long time - now, like a lottery, you yourself don't know which of the purchased items will fail before sidem promises us. Although the reviews about them are mostly still good. Recently, it seems to me that they began to save money and moved part of their production to China. |
| . | In general, in the spring I installed myself with Sidem stabilizer struts. I put it for the first time in order to test the quality of the product. The product turned out to be complete guan. I changed the oil again and decided to check how these racks feel. At that time, I drove eight thousand on them. I just went nuts when I tried to "shake" them, they dangled. It seems that the central elastic band has "dried out" in size. In short, he tightened them. After driving another three thousand, I began to hear the knock of racks. It makes no sense to tighten up any more, I will change. |
Links master(Russia, Tver). A new Russian enterprise that is just gaining momentum. The products belong to the middle and low price segment. Unfortunately, due to the company's youth, we were unable to find product reviews. However, there is an opinion that the quality of these racks is inferior to imported ones. Therefore, the responsibility for the purchase decision lies entirely with you (by the way, if you have experience of use, we will be grateful if you write in the reviews below).
We hope that the above information will help you decide on the answer to the question, what stabilizer struts install on your car and.
Conclusion
Remember that the condition of the racks is affected not only by poor-quality roads, but also by driving style the owner of the car. Choose the right speed limit on rough roads, take care of the car's suspension.
Never drive over bumps with the brakes. You only need to stop the car in front of an obstacle, not on it. This will extend the life of your vehicle's suspension, and in particular the stabilizer struts.
We recommend that you keep track of your car and carry out repairs in a timely manner. This will save you from deteriorating control over the car, as well as wear and tear of individual parts. And this, in turn, will allow you to significantly save on repairs.
For novice car enthusiasts, the question of what stabilizer struts are needed for every time they have to change - and this has to be done quite often. At first glance, it seems that this detail is absolutely superfluous, designed exclusively to draw out nerves and money from a person.
Some car owners are in no hurry to change them, even with obvious signs of deterioration of the struts. And they make a mistake! Of course, for some time you can travel with violations in them.
However, noticeable inconveniences immediately begin: the car obeys the steering wheel worse, it is noticeably shaken and skidding when cornering. In addition, in case of malfunction of the struts, other parts of the chassis gradually go out of balance, the car begins to rattle and bounce hard on bumps and bumps (as a result, you drive like on a washboard, and who will like it).
What are the anti-roll bar struts for? Their very name explains quite clearly. Let's turn to the theory and practice of replacement and finding the reasons for the failure of these parts.
Purpose: The suspension is a very multi-piece assembly. Among other parts, its kit includes a stabilizer, which is responsible for reducing the roll of the entire car in corners, keeping the line of motion during acceleration and the absence of skidding during braking. In addition, the struts significantly reduce the rocking of the machine in motion.
The struts are part of the stabilizer that takes up most of the loads it experiences. They seem to link the suspension and body into a single whole.
Reasons for the failure of the racks
It is clear that with the loads that fall to their share, the racks will wear out sooner or later. Another thing is that on our roads they break rather early, as, indeed, and the rest of the suspension components. The main reason is the quality of the canvas. The chassis, designed for a mileage of 100,000 kilometers of European roads, begins to pour on ours in 50,000 at best.
The second reason is subjective: the driving ability of the person driving. The more experienced the driver and the softer he treats his car, the longer the suspension, stabilizer and its struts will last.
Signs of need for replacement
A failed rack manifests itself unambiguously. You should react to:
- very characteristic tapping in motion. It is very clearly audible when driving on bumps or in corners, well, or;
- sideways departure of the car (for example). Many experienced drivers check the worn-out racks in this way: release the steering wheel for a few seconds. However, this indicator may indicate an unequal pumping of skates, and other malfunctions (for example,);
- one side of the car sat down on the asphalt slightly lower than the other;
- swinging at speed, when braking, or again when cornering.
Checking the racks
A couple of easy ways to help you decide on the racks without resorting to the services of auto mechanics.
Turn the wheels to the left or right until they stop. Take hold of the rack in the wheel well and pull it back and forth with all your might. Do not be afraid to break it, it usually takes on much more serious loads. You hear a knock or the rack gives in even a little - go ahead, repair is needed. The second is checked in the same way, after turning the wheels in the opposite direction.
If there is a pit, you can do otherwise.... Unscrew the nut from below, the stand is released and again stretches in different directions. If the hinges do not show you stubborn resistance and the actions are accompanied by the same knock, the conclusion is clear. The second post is checked without twisting the nut from it. Without returning to its place the already removed one, swing the car by the stabilizer and listen to what the fixed stand will tell you. If it knocks, you will have to buy both.
