TD Noise Isolation produces ready-made insulation kits, in which everything necessary for the complex processing of the main elements of a car has already been calculated. A set of materials specially selected for your car will reduce acoustic noise and make the ride comfortable. The doors will close with a dull sound, knocks in the trim and panels will disappear, the installed acoustics will sound cleaner, the interior will become more comfortable.

Hyundai Accent soundproofing kit includes:

1. floor soundproofing kit

2. roof soundproofing kit

3. door soundproofing kit

4. hood soundproofing kit

5. trunk soundproofing kit

6. arch soundproofing kit

Noise isolation options for Hyundai Accent

the car tuning kit includes everything you need to do a complete do-it-yourself car treatment in three gluing options. To purchase a kit, select required level comfort and add it to your cart.

Tycho gluing kit

The most economical option, contains minimum set materials needed to carry out the work. Choose this kit if the level of comfort in the cabin is sufficient, there is no need to install acoustics, the noise budget is limited.

Gluing kit Even quieter

Golden mean. The set will provide an average effect and complete soundproofing of the car. 25% of our customers choose this option. The result of sizing will please you, but you can make noise even better.

Gluing kit Very quiet

The most effective and most popular sizing kit. It includes the most technological types of materials. If you are gluing a car for the first time or installing acoustics, we recommend taking it.

Number of materials in the gluing kit

Material name	Quiet	even quieter	Very quiet
Vibration isolation 1.5 mm in sheets 50x70 cm	8
Vibration isolation 2 mm in sheets 50x70 cm	8	10	10
Vibration isolation 3 mm in sheets 50x70 cm	19	24	24
Vibration isolation 4 mm in sheets 50x70 cm	5	6	6
Splenium 4 mm in sheets 75x100 cm	10
Splenium 8 mm in sheets 75x100 cm	2
CarLok 8 mm in sheets 75x100 cm		2
Mat 3 mm in sheets 75x100 cm		10	2
Mat 6mm in sheets 75x100 cm			10
Mat 10 mm in sheets 75x100 cm			2
Anti-creak in tape 25x1400 mm	4	4	4
Bitoplast 5 mm in sheets 100x100 cm	3	3	1
Bitoplast 10 mm in sheets 100x100 cm			2
Total	11200 rub	12900 rub	15000 rub

What materials are included

for doors

High-quality processing is impossible without soundproofing doors. We recommend to combine this stage with the installation of an audio system instead of the factory one. Usually sizing the doors is done first. Door treatment will significantly reduce the noise in the cabin.

For floor

Bypass this element of the body will not work. The main sources of vibration and sound are adjacent to the bottom: arches, suspension, roadbed. A significant layer thickness is laid on the floor.

for the roof

Shumkov roof processing serves to eliminate external noise and "crickets". The included materials will stop the noise without adding significant weight, all that remains is to carefully put the skin in place.

for the hood

The large size of this body element is a source of significant vibrations. Installing soundproofing the hood cover will also be thermal insulation engine compartment.

For trunk

Insulation luggage compartment will significantly reduce the noise coming from the rear arches.

For wheel arches

The sizing of the fender liner blocks the transmission of vibrations and noise from the road and suspension. The arches themselves are not a source of noise. Wheel arches are insulated quickly if the dirt is thoroughly cleaned.

How to glue Hyundai Accent with your own hands

By ordering this set, you get all the materials necessary for making noise. We recommend that you immediately purchase tools for easy dismantling of the upholstery, a pressure roller, a solution for degreasing the surface and reinforcing tape.

Step 1. Dismantling

We begin dismantling the interior by carefully disconnecting the clips. Having reached the bare metal of the body, we prepare the surface. We wipe | clean from dirt and treat the metal surface with a degreaser, let it dry.

Step 2. Gluing

After finishing preparatory work Let's get started - installing layer by layer. Initially, we glue the vibration isolation layer. From above we lay soundproofing and sound-absorbing materials. Each layer is pressed tightly and rolled with a roller.

Step 3. Anti-creak and installation of the skin

Anti-skip treatment is performed at the final stage of work. We glue all the joints with anti-creak tape to eliminate squeaks. carefully return the original view. It remains to test the result.

If you carefully follow all the steps of installing Shumkov, the result will definitely please. We advise you to start simple: make noise wheel arches, then the floor, the trunk, and so on as you gain your own experience.

Or turn to our own installation center- we will do it quickly and inexpensively.

An elastic sheet is an effective and specialized noise insulator (namely, a noise insulator, not a vibration and noise insulator). It is good for damping sounds, mainly coming into the cabin from below - from the engine and wheels. Although the thin version of the sheet is effectively superimposed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe doors, trunk or roof. It is also used for acoustic tuning.

With proper application able to dampen 60-90% of noise, depending on the thickness and modification. Associated quality - a good heat insulator.

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The material is based on foam or cellular polyethylene. During the production of the sheet, its “bubbles” are partially “pierced” by needle punching. (An open cell structure attenuates sounds much better than a closed one.)

The main parameters of the sheets "Accent":

• standard dimensions - 1.0 x 2.0 m or 1.0 x 0.75 m;
• thickness - 8, 10, 15, 20 mm;
• specific weight - from 240 to 500 g/sq.m;
• operating temperatures - from -30 (frost) to +80 °С;
• color of a polyethylene basis - gray.

Improved modifications are supplemented with a mounting-adhesive layer for “dry” gluing on metal or on the bottom layer of another insulating material (in the sheet marking, the adhesive layer is referred to as “KS”). There are modifications with a lavsan film, which increases heat and moisture insulation (the designation in the marking is “LM”).

Noise isolation "Accent" popular due to wide range sheet thickness and relatively low cost. But, probably, the use of a thinner and cheaper “Splen” as a noise suppressor is even more popular with us, which is not very correct. "Splen" is still a heater with the associated property of a sound reflector ("pseudo noise").It gives some noise damping, but is significantly inferior to a full-fledged sound insulator (a real “Shumka”). This is easy to verify, for example, by wrapping the same ringing phone first in a piece of Splen, then in an Accent ...

Some general installation rules:

• for full-fledged sound insulation, it makes sense to glue Accent (like other Shumkov) on a preliminary layer of a vibration damper (vibration damper) - for example, on Vibroplast, Bimast or Vibrofilter;
• materials should not be placed on metal stiffeners - only on the main areas;
• fewer joints; in continuous areas, try to use solid pieces of material;
• "Accent" dampens the sounds coming from the adhesive side, so the adhesive side should be directed outward, to the street (whereas, for example, the Bitoplast silencer has the opposite, so it is better to glue not "Accent" on the skins, but such a noise as " Bitoplast");
• like other Shumkov, "Accent" does not really like moisture, so in particularly wet places it should be replaced, say, with "Splenom" (weak as a noise suppressor, but very resistant to moisture).

Ideally - for both noise and heat insulation - three layers of materials can be laid: below - vibration damper, in the middle - noise, on top - thermal insulation of the "Splen" type (strictly in this sequence). If only the thickness of this “layer cake” would then allow the temporarily dismantled interior to assemble back.

It's no secret that modern cars produced by both domestic and imported automotive manufacturers, have, to put it mildly, poor sound insulation. In all common cars of Japanese, Korean and even German made, sound-absorbing materials between the body and interior trim are practically absent. Any doctor will say that excessive level noise can cause hypertensive attacks, increase blood pressure, develop fatigue and worsen general state organism. That is why soundproofing of car doors, the entire cabin with a ceiling, wheel arches and hood is so necessary.

What to glue: splenitis or accent?

The first layer on the metal is always necessary to glue materials for vibration isolation of the car. Depending on the zone and budget, this can be Vibroplast Gold, Vibrofilter Acoustic, and heavy-duty Bimast Bomb. The second layer should be sound-absorbing material. Let's take a closer look at this stage.

Let's start with the fact that splenitis and accent are materials different type. Splenium 8 mm is a heat insulator with sound-reflecting properties (reflects sound) and is not particularly designed for sound insulation. Due to the extremely low price, this insulation has gained popularity as “pseudo-noise” and is actively used in the installation of car sound insulation, even in offices. higher profile. Accent 10 mm - sound absorber, it absorbs and destroys mid-range noise. Therefore, if we compare splenitis and accent as noise-absorbing properties, then Accent (like Bitoplast 8 mm) is much more effective than Splen insulation.

"But how is that?" - experienced people will ask, - “All my life they made noise with splenitis!”. Yes, before there was no such range of materials. There was one Isolon, who came from the construction industry (now Splen), who was well suited for soundproofing cars. And everyone was so carried away by Splen that even after 10 years they do not notice more modern, more efficient sound absorbers - such as Accent and Bitoplast.

simple experiment

You can do a simple experiment. We turn on the portable tape recorder at a certain volume (even mobile phone), and wrap it in a piece of Splen. By ear we measure the volume level. Then we unfold and wrap it in a piece of Accent (with the inside out - with an adhesive layer to the sound source) or in Bitoplast (with the face - with a porous surface to the sound). The experiment can be repeated as many times as you like, but Splen will never win this competition.

The accent dampens the sound from the side of the adhesive layer, and Bitoplast - from the side of the porous surface. Splen does not extinguish at all, but only reflects, but with both surfaces.

Features of mounting Splenitis and Accent

It will not be possible to completely abandon splenitis for the reason that splenitis is moisture resistant - it has a closed surface and does not absorb moisture. Accent and Bitoplast are less resistant to moisture, their use inside doors is undesirable, as they will pick up moisture and:

• will not work as noise absorbers;
• will appear bad smell dampness;
• increased risk of corrosion

If the sound quality of acoustics is important, it is better to completely abandon the noise absorber inside the door, just stick a circle of Bitoplast opposite the speaker. If the quality of acoustics is not critical, then Splen should be used inside the door. The same should be done with the trunk lid on jeeps and station wagons, as well as in the spare wheel niche on cars- where moisture can occur, it is better to glue it with splenitis. Where there is no moisture - the floor of the cabin, the partition of the engine compartment, the side of the door closest to the cabin, the ceiling - we glue Accent or Bitoplast as a sound absorber - according to the situation. The accent absorbs sound coming from the adhesive side; Bitoplast - from the side opposite to the adhesive layer. Therefore, we always glue Accent to the street side, and Bitoplast to all skins.

But don't forget about Splen. Splen's property to reflect sound waves will improve the characteristics of the sound absorber. To do this, we use such a cake: “vibra - Accent - Splenitis 4 mm”. Scope - floor, arches and, if desired, the ceiling. A thin layer of sound-reflecting material on top of sound-absorbing material will reduce the sounds of pebbles hitting the bottom and arches, as well as the sounds of raindrops and hail on the roof.

The importance of choosing the thickness of the Accent and Splenitis

It is important to remember that the properties of materials directly depend on the thickness. The thicker the material, the better it does its job. But we must not forget that too thick a layer of laid sound insulation can interfere with the reassembly of the car interior with sound insulation: there may not be enough space for clips and plastic lining.

We will support the strange tradition of starting the process of soundproofing a car from the doors, and we will also begin the description of the process of installing soundproofing from them.

The first step is to glue the vibration isolation on the door panel. AT this case sheets were used, 2.3 mm thick.

On a clean, washed from Movil and fat-free surface, we glue the vibration isolation pre-cut and heated with a hair dryer. Butyplast sheets up to 3 mm thick do not need to be heated, but heating ensures ease of rolling. It is very important to roll the vibration isolation well in order to avoid air gaps between the sheet sealant and the metal, thus reliably protecting the metal from corrosion.

If you are a communal worker and winter has suddenly come for you (for several years in a row), and the garage is not heated, we will sympathize with your working conditions and advise you to heat up not only the vibration isolation with a hair dryer, but also the gluing surface in order to prevent the possibility of deformation of the metal from the temperature difference.

Metal reinforcements, no need to glue with vibration isolation. The top of the panel is not processed either, so that the glass does not touch the noise insulation when lowering. At the bottom of the door there are holes for moisture removal and ventilation, they must not be sealed or blocked in any way. Otherwise, the panel is glued to the maximum to achieve the best effect, since a significant area of ​​​​the door is occupied by windows, and they elegantly transmit noise.

The second layer, on top of the vibration isolation, is glued with thermal insulation. In this case, .

The insulation on the panel, over the vibra, will not only eliminate the noise of high and medium frequencies, but also provide thermal insulation. Plus, it will minimize the appearance of condensate on the vibration isolation foil, and this is important, because the next stage will worsen the ventilation of the doors.

Vibration isolation bonding of the door mounting panel and technical openings.

This is an important step that will significantly increase the effectiveness of door soundproofing. If you choose the right layout for vibration isolation, then in the future, if you need access to the panel, you can easily get it. It is enough to heat the edge of the fragment of vibration isolation with a hairdryer, which closes technological hole and pry it off with a spatula or something similar. Next, heating the sealant with a hair dryer, peel off the vibration isolation until we get access. We remember what for we climbed there, we do all the necessary things. Then we heat the peeled sheet again and mount it in place. If it was glued many years ago and the secondary adhesion has deteriorated, we activate the 647 sealant or another aggressive solvent, heat it with a hair dryer and the sealant will become sticky again and stick perfectly on a new one.

The next step is processing the skin.

We glue the vibration isolation on the plastic panel. This will make the plastic "deaf" and less "walking"

On the wheel arches, gearbox and engine compartment shield - vibration isolation of maximum thickness is glued, that is

Second layer rubber 6 and/or 8mm

To optimize the weight, a 1.8mm thickness is used as roof vibration isolation

Metal reinforcements, as well as on door panels, are not glued. Well, the second layer. For the roof on the second layer, we always recommend rubber, as it is not only good in terms of heat and sound insulation, but also has an important advantage - a very strong acrylic adhesive base. Adhesive on rubber is resistant to heat and cold, does not dry out and does not crystallize, which will ensure reliable fixation of the material on the gluing surface, regardless of temperature fluctuations.

Same with the trunk lid.

Rear shelf - according to the principle of door processing

Total weight of materials - 46kg

Noise isolation car Hyundai

Noise isolation of the Hyundai car and its implementation is caused by the fact that in the cabin are periodically heard extraneous noise, unpleasant sounds, cod and various tapping. If the owner intends to install acoustic system, then the noise insulation of the Hyundai Accent and other models is simply necessary.

Noisy Hyundai

Rattle, how nice it will be for car lovers to hear domestic production, even foreign cars. In particular, Hyundai models, to which the manufacturer did not pay due attention in terms of sound insulation, are not without numerous squeaks that adversely affect the acoustic component.

Why the Hyundai, made abroad, where they do not spare quality, turned out to be so creaky, remains completely unclear.
Indeed, the noise level Korean cars so high that the manufacturers themselves justify themselves by the fact that, for example, Grand Starex has thin iron and powerful diesel power unit stands. Therefore, noises are heard during movement.
Be that as it may, the problem must be solved. Will noise isolation really help?
Of course, it will help, and the car itself will become 50-60 kilograms heavier if it is completely processed. For some, this is good, but for someone it is undesirable, but it is so.

Note that not only the situation with noise will change, but after the “shumka” has been carried out, the situation with heat transfer will noticeably improve. The Hyundai car will cool down more slowly and heat up faster, which is good in winter time, but undesirable on hot days, which, to be honest, we don’t have very often in Russia.
For this reason, our Hyundai owners are prescribed soundproofing in advance.

Carrying out work on your own

You can, of course, entrust the process of soundproofing to professionals, but why overpay if you can take on this matter yourself.
The main thing to understand is that for competent sound insulation, it is not necessary to have special equipment. It is only necessary to understand the nuances of the process, the technology.
Features of the event:

• Each car, be it a Hyundai or a Zaporozhets, is sometimes equipped with a vibra. In order to get to these surfaces, you will have to almost completely disassemble the car.

Note. It is advisable to soundproof the car with a partner who will help in this matter. But if you can’t find an assistant, it’s okay. You can do this alone as well.

• Better than any assistant will be accuracy and the absence of any haste in business. It is not worth using brute force where you can use knowledge and technological methods.

Note. If you are doing Hyundai soundproofing for the first time, then a video review will help you in this matter as well as possible.

So, as it was easy to guess, it is recommended to start the soundproofing process with disassembly. What to do after?
That's what:

• It is not necessary to remove the standard "vibra" at all. Although in the video review you can see that it is being filmed, some pros advise leaving the material anyway;
• As for the “Shumka”, you will have to remove it, but you don’t need to throw it away. It is recommended to dry it thoroughly and leave it for better times;
• After that, the surfaces are degreased - a mandatory procedure, without which the implementation of ideas for sound insulation cannot be realized in any way.

Note. It is best to arm yourself with ordinary technical alcohol for this matter.

• After the surfaces are completely degreased, pasting with vibro begins. It is desirable to take material with a thickness of 1.5 mm;
• Then proceed to pasting the noise insulator over the vibra. This material should have an anti-creak effect, which will undoubtedly negate all their negative effects.

We think the process is generally clear. The main thing, again, is to understand that there is no need to rush into this matter. Allocate enough time for this, taking into account the unprofessionalism of the worker, and purchase the necessary the right materials extremely important.

Full and partial processing

What is "shumka"?
This is a set of measures that gives not one, but several effects:

• The level of road noise is significantly reduced or completely eliminated;
• Increases noticeably general level comfort in the cabin;
• The level of noise from rain and other influences of the weather or other elements from the outside is also minimized;
• The heat resistance of the interior increases, which begins to give off heat more slowly.

Above, we presented the process as a whole in stages.
I would also like to add that the Shumka process can be carried out in several scenarios:

• It can be partial surface treatment;
• It can be full surface treatment.

Partial processing, as a rule, affects the doors and engine compartment of the car.
As for the complete processing, it, in turn, is divided into two options for carrying out:

• Full processing without soundproofing the ceiling;
• Full processing of the entire body, including.

Note. The latter type of processing is rarely carried out, since a complete processing, as such, also affects the processing of a torpedo and other components, such as wheel arches and a rear shelf.

Material

Now about how the material should be glued.
As a rule, all surfaces should be treated in 2-3 layers:

• The first layer, as mentioned above, is a vibromaterial. Depending on the application, this is either a bimast or a vibroplast;
• The second layer is necessarily "Shumka" - either splen or bitoplast;
• Finally, the third option is an anti-skrip - modelin.

Note. In some cases, the second layer is also covered with modelin.

As mentioned above, the modernization of the Hyundai car is carried out for different purposes, but more often due to the installation and improvement of the audio system.
It should be understood that in this case it is not necessary to carry out a complete treatment, and it is enough to isolate the following parts to achieve the desired effect:

• doors;
• Floor;
• rear shelf;
• Trunk if Hyundai hatchback;
• Wheel arches.

Today, the market offers a large number. Most of the products are foreign-made, but there are materials made by domestic companies.
Dynamat material is ideal for conducting acoustic "shumka".

Note. Material Dynamat is rightly called the discoverer of the "era of car audio". Previously, in our country, car audio enthusiasts knew only this material, but today it is not so cheap. But do not despair, because there are others. In particular, NeusBuster, NeusKiller, Vikar, STP, etc. will be a good choice.

Almost all of the above materials are similar to each other in their properties. Only the sizes of their sheets differ.
STP (see) or Standartplast is the most common material today. Well-known Russian car audio studios work with it, this material has many colors and gives you a chance to choose models to your liking.

• Bimast is an ideal material for floor surface treatment;
• Vibroplast - it is desirable to cover doors with this material, luggage compartment, rear shelf;
• Splen is the second layer that sits on surfaces previously covered with Bimast or Vibroplast;
• Madeleine is an ideal material for processing torpedoes;
• Bitoplast - great option for processing the roof with a second layer;
• Finally, Isoton LM is perfect for processing engine compartment and trunk lids.

How to disassemble the interior

This is a rather tedious matter, but knowing the technology of conducting, you can reduce all the difficulties to nothing.

Note. The basic rule: all fasteners, nuts and bolts, must be folded separately, marking them.

The step-by-step instructions for parsing are as follows:

• The back sofa is dismantled;
• The front seats are removed, including the driver's seat;
• The center console is dismantled;
• The seat belts are removed (they are easy to remove if you unscrew the bolts at the lowest point);
• The carpet is being removed;
• Dismantled door trim;
• Side racks are subject to removal;
• The ceiling is being removed.

Note. The assembly of the cabin is carried out in the reverse order. Complexity can be represented by wires and connectors, which are inevitable during the dismantling process. The most difficult task for a non-professional is to remove the torpedo, but it may not be necessary to soundproof it.

In the process of doing the work with your own hands, photos - materials, diagrams and drawings will be extremely useful. It is advisable to buy materials in advance. The price for them is not given, as it may be different.