If we talk about the history of the creation of Toyota engines, then, undoubtedly, it is worth noting that their history is very rich. For example, if we consider the 1SZ-FE engine, then it should be noted that this model very different from all the previous ones.
This is due to the fact that the Toyota concern bought out most of the shares of the Daihatsu company, which was currently developing the K3-VE engine. It was on its basis that they began to develop the 1SZ-FE model. First power units had in their structure cast iron block, and their main difference from other models was the presence of aluminum cooling of thin laser-cut saddles. It should be noted that the repair constituent parts motor is impossible without special equipment and skillful hands of the master. But let's not get ahead of ourselves, and talk about the progression of this engine model.
What was the 1SZ-FE engine like first
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The first models that were suitable for installation on modern cars began to be produced by the middle of 99. These were liter engines. After the modernization of the engine, new models appeared on the market, on which a new generation unit with a volume of 1.3 liters was already installed. After appeared 1.5 liters. motors.
Features 1SZ-FE
1SZ-FE in Toyota Vitz
feature this engine is that the toyota 1SZ-FE is the only model where the drive is due to the plastic Morse chain (this can be seen today in modern cars, on the basis of which a CVT motor is installed).
Pluses 1SZ-FE
- Quiet work.
- The ability to transmit huge torque, which in turn reserves the possibility of being driven by this chain oil pump and single VVTi in action. To be clear, VVTi is a system that regulates the interaction time between the engine and the intake camshaft. In turn, this leads to greater efficiency car, which proves the great importance of torque. This technology was first developed by Toyota automotive engineers in 1996.
Disadvantages of 1SZ-FE
- Due to the length of the chain, it was necessary to install additional acceleration blocks, as well as an additional shoe with a hydraulic tensioner. All this increased oil consumption (pouring which costs from expensive brands), and also increased the overall cost this motor and car.
- There is a high probability of bending the valves at the moment of tension and loosening of the tensioner. Then the timing chain needs to be replaced and overhaul engine.
- The oil pump is designed and developed without the use of a sump, which increases the time during the start-up process. full turn oils in the system.
- Although 1SZ-FE is considered the most successful motor, developed by Toyota, but it has the largest and significant disadvantage. In this model of the engine, the valves work due to the influence of a system of pushers on them, which makes the process of adjusting the valves useless and expensive if you still decide to change them. Indeed, in the case of adjustment, it will be necessary to completely change the drive glass, which, during the service, has already formed a certain place in the engine head.
Specifications
Particular attention should be paid to the following specifications 1SZ-FE
The SZ series has become for Toyot's a kind of revival of the tradition of producing small engines. Once upon a time, the E series also played this role, but for twenty years there were no "liter" class engines in it - this niche belonged to the Daihatsu department with its own developments.
Engine | 4E-FE | MeMZ-245 | 1SZ-FE | 2SZ-FE |
Working volume, cm 3 | 1331 | 1091 | 998 | 1296 |
Power, hp | 86/5400 | 53/5400 | 68/6000 | 87/6000 |
Torque, Nm | 120/4400 | 79/3200 | 90-95/4100 | 116/3800 |
Compression ratio | 9,6 | 9,5 | 10,0 | 10,0 |
Cylinder diameter, mm | 74 | 72 | 69 | 72 |
Piston stroke, mm | 77,4 | 67 | 66,7 | 79,5 |
RON | 92 | 92 | 92/95* | 92/95* |
* - 95th gasoline is recommended for European models, 92nd gasoline for the rest.
Production of the SZ series began in January 1999 with the introduction of the liter 1SZ-FE on the Yaris/Vitz/Platz family models. Later, a forced version of the increased volume was also developed, but it is difficult to explain the need to create a complete analogue of the already existing 2NZ-FE (apparently, it was required in without fail increase power while maintaining the layout of the power unit).
Cylinder block.
While almost all Toyota engines of the 3rd wave received sleeved aluminum blocks with an open cooling jacket, the SZ retained the cast iron block of traditional design - which is very good in terms of durability.
The crankshaft is installed with desaxage - the axes of the cylinders do not intersect with the longitudinal axis of the engine (crankshaft), which reduces the wear of the piston-cylinder pair and makes it possible to slightly increase the output of the engine.
Timing drive. Both camshafts (standard DOHC 16V) are driven by a fine pitch chain. In fact, it is something like a Morse chain, it works quieter than usual, but it is not so securely fixed on toothed pulleys. Therefore, the chain installation procedure should be given Special attention- a number of cases of jumping of chain links relative to pulleys and, as a result, "meeting" of valves with pistons have already been recorded. Just in case, we give a drawing of the correct alignment of the marks on the chain (links with colored marks) and on the pulleys.
A two-row chain in theory should have a lower tendency to stretch than a single-row chain on motors of other series, but practice has not yet confirmed this, so some attention should still be paid to its condition and the condition of the hydraulic tensioner with a damper.
The 1SZ-FE engine is short-stroke (the piston stroke is smaller than the cylinder diameter), that is, it is more "torsional" than high-torque. To correct this feature, which is unsuitable for an exclusively urban car, the variable valve timing system (VVT-i) is called upon. Mounted on intake camshaft VVT-i pulley allows you to change the opening moment intake valves within 60°.
The valves are driven either directly through adjusting tappets (1SZ) or through rockers (2SZ, and it is worth paying attention - without hydraulic compensators). Valve seats are traditional, press fit.
Inlet and outlet. The location of the collectors on these motors is classic: the intake is at the rear, from the side of the engine shield, the exhaust is at the front. In line with new trends, intake manifold made of composite (in other words, plastic) and is a "spider" with pipelines equal length. In order not to overheat engine compartment, the catalyst was not combined with exhaust manifold, and moved under the engine.
Lubrication system. The oil pump is not driven directly from the crankshaft, but through a chain, which increases unwanted loads on it. Oil filter installed correctly - at an angle, but with the body down and the hole up.
Ignition system. Engines from the very beginning have a DIS-4 system - individual coils located in the spark plug tip. Pluses - the accuracy of the spark, the absence of high-voltage lines and rotating elements, fewer cycles of operation of each individual coil. Cons - significant overheating of the coils in the wells of the head of the block, the inability to adjust the ignition, sensitivity to the condition of the candles, in practice - a more frequent failure of the coils.
The compression ratio is 10:1, but the engine is designed for regular gasoline(90th in SAE, Regular in Japan, 92nd here), some care should be taken with machines European market- their control systems are configured for the 95th.
Drive unit mounted units. Here, one long belt runs to drive the coolant pump, generator, power steering and air conditioner. Of course, this made it possible to slightly reduce the length of the engine, but the load on the belt increased significantly, and its hydraulic tensioners never differed in enviable durability. In addition, it is impossible, in case of emergency, to drop the belt from the pulley of a jammed device - you can’t really ride without a “pump”. Due to improved fastenings - the units are not placed on brackets, but on the tides of the cylinder block itself - the equipment turned out to be endemic (not unified with other models). The generator is not very well placed in terms of protection against dirt and water.
Control system. The SZ series motors use standard solutions similar to those described in the article "1ZZ-FE. No room for error" (in fact, with different design features this engine we are comparing SZ here).
For reference. Refueling tanks and some characteristics of models with engines of the SZ series (using the Vitz SCP1# as an example).
Engine | 1SZ-FE | 2SZ-FE |
Engine oil (with filter change) |
3.2 l | 3.4 l |
Coolant | 4.7/4.6 l (manual transmission / automatic transmission) |
5.1 l (CVT) |
Idle speed | 500-600 (manual transmission) 650-750 (automatic transmission) |
550-650 (CVT) |
Compression | 15 bar (nom.) 11.5 bar (min.) |
12 bar (nom.) 9.5 bar (min.) |
Candles | Denso K16R-U | Denso SK16HR11 NGK ILFR5C11 |
Transmission oil (manual transmission C550) | 1.4 l (API GL3 SAE 75W-90) |
- |
ATF (automatic transmission U440F) | 5.5 l (Type T-IV) |
- |
ATF (CVT K210) | - | 5.5 L (CVT Fluid TC) |
Characteristics. You should be aware that the 1SZ-FE engine is the weakest gasoline Toyota engine. Its 68 HP and 90 Nm for a completely full-fledged car with a curb weight of about 900 kg is too little, all the more so that both the hydraulic booster and the air conditioner take their share, and the relatively lower efficiency of the machine - therefore, mediocre acceleration dynamics and low maximum speed shouldn't surprise. Real passport characteristics new car With manual transmission- 13.8 from acceleration to hundreds and a top speed limit of 155 km / h. With the automatic, the nominal acceleration increases to 15.6 s, and the maximum speed drops by at least 5 km / h.
Summary. The SZ series is hard to name technical revelation or a breakthrough - the company just needed a more environmentally friendly and technologically advanced replacement for obsolete (for Japan, of course) classic engines. And it is precisely in the absence of excessive advancement that the advantages are hidden - it seems that it is the SZ motors that have remained the only non-"disposable" Toyota engines of the third wave.
Evgeny E., Moscow
(c) "Legion-Avtodata"
Removal and installation of timing chain 1SZ-FE , 1 - lower motor guard, 2 - pulley, 3 * idler bracket, 4 - bracket post, 5 - bracket right support engine, 6 - engine mount shock absorber, 7 - air conditioner tube, 8 - hood, 9 - power steering pump, 10 - accessory drive belt, 11 - sensor connector mass flow air, 12 - inlet hose air filter, 13 - air filter housing.
Removal and installation of timing chain 1SZ-FE (continuation). 1 - WT system valve, 2 - timing chain cover, 3.14 - gasket, 4 - position sensor crankshaft, 5 - front oil seal crankshaft, 6 - crankshaft pulley, 7 - coolant pump pulley, 8 - engine wiring harness, 9 - ignition coils, 10 - oil dipstick, 11, 12 - hose of the forced crankcase ventilation system, 13 - cylinder head cover, 15 - oil pan, 16 - timing chain damper, 17 - timing chain damper No. 2, 18 - crankshaft position sensor rotor, 19 - guide timing chain tensioner, 20 - timing chain, 21 - crankshaft sprocket, 22 - WT system sprocket, 23 - sprocket camshaft, 24 - timing chain tensioner, 25 - oil nozzle.
Timing chain 1SZ-FE Removal
1. Drain engine oil
2. Remove the right front wheel.
3. Remove the lower engine protection.
4. Remove accessory drive belts
5. Disconnect the power steering pump.
6. Remove the right engine mount bracket with shock absorber
7. Remove the oil filler cap with gasket..
8. Remove the PCV valve and valve insulator.
9. Remove the cylinder head cover with gasket by removing 11 bolts and two nuts.
10. Remove the crankshaft pulley,
A) Set the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC of the compression stroke.
B) Using the special tool, remove the pulley mounting bolt.
B) Using a puller, remove the crankshaft pulley.
Bolt length (M12x1.25) ............... 50 mm
11 Remove the WT system valve by removing the bolt.
12. Loosen the two bolts and remove the timing chain cover No. 2..
13. Remove the chain cover service plug
14. Remove the nine bolts and nut with a screwdriver wrapped with electrical tape, remove the timing chain cover and gasket.
15 Remove the crankshaft position sensor rotor
16. Using a vernier caliper, measure the protrusion of the tensioner plunger when installed circuit timing drive
Maximum performance. .. 19.5 mm
17. Remove the timing chain
A) Rotate the tensioner lock plate down, push down on the plunger and lock it.
b) Align the hole in the stop plate with the hole in the tensioner using a 2.5mm rod
If the holes do not match, then push the tensioner plunger 2-3 times.
B) Unscrew the bolt and nut, remove the tensioner.
D) Remove the bolt and remove the timing chain tensioner guide. one
E) Unscrew the two bolts and remove the damper No. 2 of the timing chain.
E) Remove the timing chain.
18 Remove the timing chain guide by removing the two bolts.,
Timing belt installation 1SZ-FE
1. Install the timing chain guide and tighten the two bolts of its fastening.
Tightening torque...................................8.5 Nm
2. Install the timing chain..
A) Align the yellow marks (links) of the chain with installation marks sprockets and install the chain.
B) Install the damper No. 2 of the timing chain and tighten the two bolts of its fastening
8.5 Nm Tightening torque
B) Install the timing chain tensioner guide and tighten its fastening bolt
Tightening torque.............................. 19 N m
D) Install the tensioner, tighten the bolt and nut of its fastening.
Tightening torque .... ......... .9 N m
E) Remove the pin from the timing chain tensioner.
3. Install the crankshaft position sensor rotor with the "F" mark toward the front of the engine.
4. Install the timing chain cover.
A) Install the cover gasket.
b) Apply a 3mm thick bead of sealant to the timing chain cover as shown in the figure.
Parts must be assembled within the time specified in the instructions for use of the sealant. Otherwise, the sealant must be removed and reapplied.
Do not add engine oil within 2 hours after installing the chain cover.
Torque:
Bolt (35 mm)...................................18 N -m
Bolt (14 mm, 30 mm, nut) ........ 9 N m
5. Lubricate the valve o-ring with engine oil VVT systems and install the valve.
Tightening torque...................................7.5 Nm
6. Install the crankshaft pulley using the special tool.
Tightening torque..............................130 Nm
7 Install timing chain cover #2
Apply sealant 2.3 mm thick to the cover in the places shown in the figure. Install cover No. 2 and tighten the two bolts of its fastening. Tightening torque .................................. 8.5 N m
Parts must be assembled within the time specified in the instructions for use of the sealant. Otherwise, the sealant must be removed and reapplied.
Do not add engine oil within 2 hours after installing the cap
8, Install the cylinder head cover
A) Apply 5 mm thick sealant to the cylinder head in the places shown in the figure.
Parts must be assembled within the time specified in the instructions for use of the sealant. Otherwise the sealant must be removed and reapplied.
Do not add engine oil within 2 hours after installing the cap;
B) Install the cylinder head cover with gasket by tightening 11 bolts and two nuts,
Torque:
Bolt............... ...................... .11 Nm
Nut.......................................9 N.m
9 Install the PCV valve and valve insulator.
10. Install the oil filler cap with gasket.
11 Install the power steering pump.
12. Install the shock absorber of the right engine mount
A) Install the three bolts Tightening torque .................................................. .45 N m
B) Install the nut and two bolts
B) Install the nut on the underside of the engine mount bracket m
13 Install the lower engine guard.
14 Install the front wheel
15 Fill with engine oil.
16 Start the engine and check for coolant and oil leaks.
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Hi all!!! I want to share my adventures when replacing the chain with my faithful friend.
I bought it a year ago with 160,000 km mileage. Now 217000 km. The chain rattled harder and harder. Especially for an oil change (waste about a liter per 12000 km))))
Found parts quickly. The boy from Irkutsk sold for 5 tr. originals. (vvti star, exhaust camshaft star, crankshaft star, tensioner, tensioner guide, damper, lower guide, chain). I think that I was lucky for 5 rubles to buy the originals in such quantity)))
I read the manuals, looked at the pictures, waited a month and began to operate. I will say that I had enough experience in repairing right-handed four-wheeled comrades (Camry 2000 (although not, my first car was handed over for repair), Toyota Hoah 2000-transplant operations valve stem seals, repair of running limbs, Toyota Crown 2000 2jz-transplantation of the knee shaft seal with the replacement of the timing belt (that’s still fun), set it perfectly according to the marks since the 25th, vitz rs 2000 1.5 - which I just didn’t do with it, except for the chain))). In general, with this baggage of knowledge, I decided that it would not be difficult to operate on VITKA. I bought oil, filters, antifreeze, an oil seal and a key for every fireman.
I chose Saturday as the day of repair. And so, let's start with.
We raise the wheelbarrow as high as possible. I used a rokhlya (mega cool jack). I must say right away that you need two jacks, because. you have to raise and lower the engine. Or a chock then a jack.
Remove the right wheel. Engine protection - right side. I didn't do it according to the manual. I love to improvise. We don't touch the stand.
I decided to remove the pallet because. the chain cover is sealed to the pallet and I thought it would be complicated and not neat. Plus salt the oil (it turned out to be fucking simple (this is my missing liter, I thought)))) To do this, I unfastened exhaust pipe, removed the aluminum crap, removed the pan. Horror. Sealant smeared a ton. Fu Fu Fu. Washed with karcher.
Painted. Nothing without creativity
We continue the conversation. I looked from below, it seemed that the conder would interfere with 3 bolts, it doesn’t interfere))) By the way, it’s very important to buy a VD-40. Helps a lot. I puffed on the crankshaft pulley bolt for 2 days in a row. I read horror stories on the Internet, how people's hands are torn off, blood is shed in the battle with this bolt))) I was most afraid of not unscrewing it.
Therefore, I did not start with a pallet, but just with a bolt. I just forgot))) So, either the VD-40 helped so much, or luck, but the first time he did not succumb. A collar and a reinforced head by 17 on the bolt, we rest the key handle on the drive. ahh.
We unscrew the candles, and unfasten the contacts from the coils to avoid buying new ones. We fire the ignition. I didn't succumb. Got upset. Thought...
He took off the belt. Tryn, and you're done)))) Uraaa, I thought)))
Everything. Remove the valve cover. We unscrew the hydraulic pump, as well as remove the conduit to the side. Remove the pump pulley. We unscrew the roller .. Buy the bearing right away. For him, for any pi...
Remove right engine mount. 5 bolts on the top, a nut on the bottom, two bolts on the side and a nut. Unscrew the pins. Remove the valve cover. I put on a film, so as not to litter by accident.
We unscrew the bolts and nut from the timing cover. Pry off the sealant with a screwdriver. We remove the tray. And we see this:
After replacing all the spare parts, it should look exactly the same: the marks on the stars should look straight up, and the pulley mark should hit "0" and not "10" or somewhere else.
We remember how things should be. We remove the tensioner and immediately the intake shaft rotates a few degrees.
It's OK. Everything can be fixed.
We capture all the details. We put new ones. We put on a chain. And this is where I ran into problems. They did, but not right away. I put the chain on, aligned the yellow links of the chain with the marks on the stars. Installed a tensioner. Released the stem and got this:
Didn't pay attention. I tightened it all up, sealed the washed cover and put it on. I tightened the bolts .... And then I saw in the box with bolts the star of the position of the knees of the shaft. ...yayayay, I thought...
OK. He took off the lid. Dressed as a star. I sealed the lid and screwed it on. I figured out the pulley, it doesn’t hit zero, but at 10. When I tried to return the intake shaft to its original position, I turned it with an adjustable wrench, already with a chain, and released the tensioner. This whole thing fell apart. .... la, I thought. Unscrewed, removed the cover (naturally, all this with rubbing off the sealant both from the cover and from the block.
Tried to fix this whole thing. Does not exceed. He took off the chain. .... went to bed, because the sealant was over)))) in short, I was able to properly dress the next morning. All night I thought about how to do it.
The order is this: the pulley is strictly to zero. We do not remove the pin. We combine the yellow marks on the star of the knees of the shaft, Then we pull the pump oil onto the star (it seems like this star turns the oil supply pump))) We pull it so that there is not the slightest sag. Then we pull on the graduation star. Yellow marks converge, but very difficult. No sedative is required. He will interfere. We put the lower guide, and the tensioner guide, and we put the tensioner itself on the stud. We pull the chain onto the intake star, turning the camshaft with the key so that the mark on the star looks up, plus the yellow mark on the chain is in place, plus there should be no slack between the stars. We press our hand on the tensioner guide and lower the rod. Ready. The manual is very simple. Only here it is difficult to make everything fit together, and there was no sagging of the chain. And what threatens such a sag, I think it is not necessary to explain. It's easier to do both. I did one.
That's all. We collect everything back. We don't forget anything.
I have one bolt left for 12. I double-checked everything 10 times. Could not find. Filled up with oil. The filter has been changed. Air. Candles. Crossed himself. AND......
Wound up with half a turn. Warmed up. The beauty. Doesn't make noise at all. Ride. It doesn't pull at all like it used to. To celebrate, I changed the antifreeze with a complete flush and emptying of the engine and radiator.
Now I put pressure on the sneaker without fear for the dviglo, and I imagine that I am on 2jz as in the old days. I note that before the replacement, I was not gaining speed at 130 and above. Now it is very confident and much faster, without the intense roar of the motor. In general, the engine revived. At the time of writing the report skated for 4 days. I hope my report is useful to someone. Do not judge strictly for a large amount of writing))) All the best)))