Uncertainty is a major source of stress. To avoid this, professional used car buyers take various effective measures. We invite you to learn how to choose a used car just like the professionals do. Our tips will help you avoid the disappointment after purchasing your machine.

The most important thing in the process of purchasing any used car is not to rush. The fact that you cannot choose a car for yourself for a long time is okay. You should not rush if even at the moment you are forced to use public transport. The main thing is patience.

Remember that rushing can lead to the fact that either you buy a problematic car, or buy a car you don't need at all.

Also, before looking for and buying a car, you must plan everything carefully: determine exactly the make and model of the car, determine your maximum possible budget, as well as a list of necessary vehicle options that you need.

Since a used car is no longer new, and, as a rule, is no longer covered by the factory warranty, when choosing a car, you must take into account the mileage and technical condition of the car. That is why, before you should carry out a full check and diagnosis.

Here are some tips to help you choose a used car that is as perfect as possible for your age and mileage.

Make a plan to conduct a car inspection

Regardless of who you want to buy a used car from (car dealership, dealer, private person), you should take a trusted auto mechanic with you for inspection.

An experienced car mechanic can help you find hidden problems in the car, signs of malfunctions, and many other possible defects. So you shouldn't take a non-professional with you, who the most he can do when inspecting the car is to knock on the wheels with his feet.

Most likely, if you buy a car at a car dealership or from an authorized dealer, you will be denied additional diagnostics of the car, because it has already been performed before the sale. In this case, you must be provided with a full report on the technical diagnosis of the vehicle.

The only thing that you will not be denied is to carry out, which you naturally have to do together with your familiar auto mechanic.

If the car is sold by a private person, then you should definitely offer the owner a comprehensive car diagnostics. Preferably from an authorized dealer. If the seller does not agree to go to a car service for diagnostics, then you should refuse to purchase his car, since there are huge risks that the car is in poor technical condition.

Also note that the seller may offer you to go to his car service (where, for example, the car was serviced). We advise you not to agree to such offers, since it is possible that the owner of the car has an agreement in such a workshop.

Therefore, diagnostics should be carried out only in the technical center that you offer.

True, it should be noted that, as a rule, the car diagnostics should be carried out at your expense. So before you go to the service to pay for diagnostics, you must make a thorough inspection of the car and decide on a further inspection of the car in a car repair shop. If, at the stage of inspection, something alarmed you, etc., then we advise you not to waste time and money on further technical diagnostics of the car. Better to continue looking for the next option.

Remember that diagnosing a used car at a car service, although not cheap, can save you a lot of money after purchasing a car.

The main thing: If you buy a car from a dealer, this does not mean that the car is completely in perfect condition. Even if the car dealership provides an additional guarantee for the car. In most cases, all used cars that are offered for sale by a dealer meet a minimum set of reliability and safety criteria. The fact is that the majority of dealers, before buying a car, carry out minimal technical diagnostics.

In the event of any faults that affect safety, the vehicle will of course be repaired. But, unfortunately, not all technical problems are often eliminated. And even on used cars, which are covered.

So don't think that when you buy a used car from a dealer, you are getting it in perfect condition.

The only plus of purchasing a car from a dealer is to check its legal frequency, and it is also possible to have a complete history of vehicle maintenance. True, not all dealers in Russia are conscientious. Including, you should not trust the manager of the car dealership if he convinces you that the car has not been fought or painted. It is better to check this information using a special device that measures the thickness of the body paintwork, as well as using online Internet services for checking cars for accidents (gibdd.ru and avtokod.ru)

Serviceable suspension should not make noise

After you have made sure that the electrician is working properly in the car, the climate control is functioning, the stereo system is also in proper working order, etc. it's time to check the suspension on rough roads. So get ready to train your hearing. While driving, you should carefully listen to how the suspension works in the car on rough roads. You should catch any extraneous sounds (pops, squeaks, knocks, clicks, etc.).

Remember that in a car with a working chassis, even on an uneven road, there should be no extraneous noise. If you hear any strange sounds on an uneven road, then most likely there is a malfunction in the suspension.

The most common sources of extraneous sound in suspensions are ball joints, rod joints and arm bushings. So be on the lookout when testing your car on bumps.

The main thing: with rear wheel drive, in addition to the chassis, you must check the serviceability of the rear differential, which may be worn out.

To do this, you must select a roundabout and drive it at a low speed. Any ringing, creaking, cutting, etc. in the back of the car, while passing a circular motion, should alert you.

Especially if, while driving, you get the impression that the rear wheels are not receiving constant torque. It is quite possible with these signs in the car the rear differential is worn out.

Including you should definitely check the steering. To do this, in a stationary car (with the engine running), turn the steering wheel completely to the end (first in one direction and then in the other). A knock and rattle may tell you that the steering rack is worn out in the car.

If at the moment of turning the steering wheel you hear a shrill howl or the steering wheel is very heavy, then the hydro or electric power steering is probably faulty in the car.

Scan the vehicle for electronic errors

The main thing: For diagnostics, you can buy your own On Board Diagnostics (OBD) scanner. There are many fairly inexpensive scanners on the market today. The scanner connects to the OBD port, which is located either under the steering wheel, or in the glove compartment or under the glove compartment in the car. By connecting to the car, you can read the codes of all faults. Do not spare your money to buy a diagnostic scanner. It will come in handy not only for purchasing a car. In the future, the scanner will be useful to you during the operation of the car.

Check consumables

Tires. Brake pads, calipers, brake discs. Filters, etc. All cars have many parts that are consumable as they require periodic replacement. That is why they are called consumable parts of the car (consumables).

Remember that by checking the condition of all consumables, in the process of inspecting the car, you can roughly calculate how much money you have to spend to replace worn out consumable parts after purchasing the car. Also, information on the condition of consumables will help you, possibly during negotiations with the owner of the car, who, at your request, can slightly reduce the price of the car.

The main thing: When looking at tires, pads and brake discs, consider the power of the vehicle. If a powerful engine is installed in the inspected car, and brake pads, discs, etc. 75 percent worn, be prepared to replace these components as the performance of the vehicle will wear these components out rather quickly.

Timing belt

Most cars in the engine design have a timing belt (engine timing belt), which, like many components, requires periodic replacement at a certain time interval, which is set by the automaker.

The task of any owner is to prevent its breakage and damage. Therefore, the timing belt must be replaced before the slightest wear on this component.

Remember that if it is not replaced in time, then if it breaks, the car engine may fail. So don't skimp on the timing belt. Replacing the belt is cheaper than repairing the engine.

So before buying a car, you should ask the owner when the timing belt was last changed. If the belt has not changed for some reason, it is necessary to clarify the procedure for its replacement established by the vehicle manufacturer.

If, in the process of purchasing a car, you find out that the timing belt needs to be replaced, then you can safely ask the owner to give up the price of the amount necessary to replace the belt.

Ideally, of course, that the timing belt is replaced before your purchase of the car.

The main thing: In order to know how much to try to reduce the owner of the car if it is necessary to replace the timing belt, before going to inspect the car, call several technical centers and authorized dealers to find out the cost of replacing the timing belt in the technical centers in your region.

So you can reasonably try to bargain with the owner for a lower price.

Should I buy an extended used car warranty?

Nowadays, many used cars are sold with an extended dealer warranty, which, like the factory one, can cover any expenses associated with the breakdown of the purchased car. Typically, such a guarantee is provided for cars that have only recently expired the factory warranty, the age of which does not exceed 5 years, and the mileage does not exceed 120 thousand km.

Few people know, but such an extended warranty is provided not only for vehicles put up for sale by a dealer, but also for any used car purchased by you from individuals that meets the conditions of the authorized dealership program.

That is, you can hand-held a car and bring it to a dealer for comprehensive diagnostics. After a comprehensive check of the technical condition of the car, you may be offered to buy an additional car warranty for a fee.

In fact, you can buy insurance against possible breakdowns of the car during operation. However, it is worth noting that such a guarantee may not be very cheap.

But, nevertheless, it is a great alternative to the factory warranty.

Unfortunately, each dealer has its own extended warranty policy, which should be carefully reviewed. It is also worth noting that the extended warranty may not cover the failure of many components. This is especially true for consumable parts, as well as various diagnostic work, which, as a rule, the owners of used cars with an extended warranty issued are paid at their own expense.

So, everyone should decide for himself whether to buy an extended car warranty. In some cases, the purchase of such a guarantee involves unjustified expenses. In other cases, purchasing an extended warranty can save you high repair costs. Especially, the cost of maintenance of which can be unreasonably expensive.

After all, repairing premium cars can be more expensive than the cost of a one-year extended warranty.

The main thing: If you have normal financial wealth, and also have some savings in your bank account that you can easily spend, if necessary, on car maintenance and repair, then in most cases it makes no sense for you to purchase insurance to cover possible losses associated with a car breakdown.

Probably, any person living in a modern society, at least once in his life, thought about buying a personal vehicle. And if you can't afford a new car, the thought of choosing a used car doesn't seem all that daunting. After all, today's life is quite dynamic, and very often we simply do not have time to cope with the accumulated cases, moving on foot or by public transport.

Not a luxury, but a means of transportation

An important incentive for purchasing a personal car is the eternal human desire to improve the level of comfort. A trip in your own car is incomparable with moving in stuffy buses and minibuses. Among other things, in the modern world, a car is no longer a luxury, but its presence still emphasizes its status. And if you add up all these facts, a simple idea becomes clear: buying your own transport is, if not the main, then, of course, an important life goal of almost every citizen.

True, it must be admitted that this task requires serious financial costs. In other words, the primary question for a potential buyer is: "What kind of car to buy?" How to choose a used car? Or is it new?

And I want and inject

Of course, if funds permit, you can go to any car dealership and buy a new car. It is simpler, more convenient and eliminates many highly technical problems. The procedure does not take much time. And in general, the policy of almost all car dealerships is aimed at making the choice of a car as easy as possible and facilitating its design. In this case, the buyer can determine not only the affordable price range, but also various nice little things, additional technical functions. None of this is available if we are trying to figure out how to choose a used car.

An important aspect in the case of purchasing a new car is the manufacturer's warranty. This can seriously protect the consumer for several years from the manifestation of all kinds of defects that have gone unnoticed in production (which is not available after choosing a used BMW or others).

Used - Affordable

It would seem that the choice is obvious in favor of buying a new car. But, unfortunately, such pleasure is not available to everyone. Prices for new cars are far from the real salaries of the average citizen. And the desire to acquire a four-wheeled friend from this does not diminish. The way out of this situation is quite simple. You need to buy something that you have enough money actually earned. That is a used car. With such a purchase, there are a number of nuances worth focusing on.

If the decision to buy a used car has matured and took shape in a very specific amount, then first you need to clearly understand for yourself the essence of the future purchase. Namely - for what purposes do you need a car. This will clarify how to choose the right used car in order to settle on the best option without additional financial risks.

Service costs

The experts in the field remind you that maintaining a used car will fall entirely on your own or your family's budget. Indeed, in this case, it makes no sense to demand the fulfillment of warranty obligations from manufacturing firms. As a rule, a used car has not been under warranty service for a long time. Probably, there is no need to explain that the cost of component parts for future repairs for imported and domestic cars differs significantly.

Therefore, before choosing a used car, you need to decide directly with the country that released this mechanism. It is these two factors: the country of origin and the purpose of travel by car - that will allow you to solve the problem in the shortest possible time and at minimal cost.

A simple example

Let's consider the simplest and cheapest option for solving the problem "how to choose a used car". You are a pedestrian by nature and you spend a lot of time in active recreation associated with walking. The nearest supermarket is under your house, and you don't need to make gigantic purchases. But you have a suburban area that is too far from your home. Of course, you can use public transport.

But what to do at harvest time? How do you bring home the fruits of your seasonal work? Hiring a truck will nullify all efforts to minimize costs. It is extremely inconvenient to carry the entire volume in the hands. How to choose the right used car for such a purpose?

There is an option for purchasing an inexpensive domestic car. It will be operated, as a rule, in the summer. And the main function is a small truck for transporting the harvested crop. Such a car will not be too expensive, but this does not mean at all that its choice should be taken lightly.

Choosing products from a domestic manufacturer

How to choose a used VAZ car and not fall for the bait of all kinds of swindlers? To do this, you need to understand what difficulties you may encounter when buying it.

Experienced motorists say that the main problem lies, oddly enough, in the design. As a rule, such a car is sold by power of attorney without being removed from the state register, justifiably arguing for the high cost of the legal procedure itself. Sometimes it can exceed the price of the car itself. In this case, it is advisable to purchase cars taken off the state register, which are much less on sale. With some tenacity, you can find them. And here you will benefit: the owners of VAZs who deregister their cars are usually very neat people. Those. the car will be in good "physical" shape. It is extremely impractical to engage in the very re-registration of such transport (from a financial point of view). Therefore, the legalization of the transaction must be taken seriously in order to avoid possible problems associated with the past of this machine.

What to look for in the back

But how do you choose a used car? The technical inspection of the car must be taken even more seriously than the legal registration. It's no secret that most of the requirements are imposed on the body. Experienced car enthusiasts even call it a basic part. In the case of a domestic unit, everything is quite simple.

The body should not bear elements of corrosion, obvious dents and damage to the paintwork (paintwork). This is usually visible with the naked eye, because no one will carry out serious paintwork with this class of machines. The cost of a branded paint can exceed the cost of a car. If, during inspection, obvious defects were found, you can significantly reduce the purchase price during further bargaining.

How to check the engine of the selected car

The technical requirements for such a car are minimal. Experts propose to proceed from the normal state of the main technical components: the engine and the chassis of the machine. Here are some rules on how to choose a used Kalina, for example.

The engine should be started, as they say, "cold". In this case, ignition defects will immediately be revealed, if any, and the general condition of the power unit will become clear from the sound of idling. Checking the oil and coolant levels is a good idea. By the way, by their color you can determine the approximate wear of the entire mechanism. Black and gasoline-smelling oil with foreign bodies is a very bad sign. This means that the lubricating fluid no longer fulfills its functions, and as a result of friction, the destruction of the contacting metal surfaces began.

The worst option for the engine unit is the ingress of coolant into the oil. It is impossible to hide this fact. Because the white bloom that forms when the two compounds are mixed is very clearly visible on the dipstick for measuring the oil level. This means that the gasket between the cylinder block and the top of the engine has burst and needs to be replaced. Such a motor, even with modest discussed requirements, will not work for a long time.

When testing the propulsion system, smoke from the exhaust pipe is undesirable, which can be observed in different modes of operation. This phenomenon indicates wear on the piston rings and indicates serious temporary changes in the mechanisms.

The engine must be in working order, work smoothly under any modes, not "triple" or malfunction when the gas pedal is pressed sharply. In this case, you can close your eyes to a small clatter of the piston or valve group.

How to check the chassis of a selected RWD car

When studying how to choose the right used car, remember: self-diagnosis of the chassis of such a car is very simple. To identify defects, you need to drive your future car for several kilometers on an uneven road.

If there is a malfunction of the rear-wheel drive VAZ chassis, you will immediately hear a characteristic hum coming from the rear of the car. As a rule, this is the noise of a worn rear axle gearbox. You can ride with this for a while, but you need to remember that the replacement will cost you a tidy sum and take a lot of time. Based on this, you can achieve a significant discount on the initial cost of the car.

A characteristic gurgling clatter in the front of the car when the wheel hits a bump in most cases will indicate a malfunction of the ball bearings. Their repair will not require large expenses, but it is necessary to carry out it due to the accident rate of the wheel.

How to check the chassis of a selected front wheel drive vehicle

If you are experiencing a front-wheel drive VAZ, then remember the conditions on how to choose a used "Prior", for example. The most common chassis defect in such cars is the wear of the front CV joints or grenades, as motorists call them. Checking the technical condition of the grenade is quite simple. Unscrew the steering wheel to the ground in any direction and try to start abruptly from a place in this position. If the CV joint is faulty, you will hear a characteristic crackling sound in the front of the car, depending on the side where the steering wheel is turned. When noise is present on both sides, this is a rather serious defect in the chassis, which can lead to additional financial investments. And the safety of driving such a car is rather dubious. Here it will be appropriate to simply abandon the purchase.

These are the main and rather simple secrets of how to choose a used VAZ. However, the same testing methods apply to foreign cars. Remember them and you will buy exactly what you need.

Domestic all-terrain vehicle: what to look for

There are some technical points that require close attention if you are wondering how to choose a used Niva. It must be remembered here that this is already, rather, a crossover than an ordinary passenger car. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the chassis of the intended purchase.

In order to cheerfully storm the curbs and irregularities of the suburban surface, it is better to immediately get the expert opinion on the reliability of all the suspension arms of such a VAZ. Otherwise, there is a risk, as in the case of the motor system, to pay a tidy sum for repairs immediately after the purchase.

However, all the risks described above do not detract from the merits of this particular choice. It is optimal for those who are new to the wheel and want to improve their skills at a relatively low cost.

Making money with a used car - myth or reality

Trucking is a fairly large segment of modern business. More and more people appear who have decided to earn their living by delivering goods in cities. This is a relatively small tonnage - from about 500 kg to 2 tons. A truck manufactured in Russia under the Gazelle brand is ideal for these purposes. As a rule, to start such a business, it is better to buy a new car with a gas installation.

But if, nevertheless, a brand new car is not affordable, and you are thinking more and more about how to choose a used Gazelle, then it is better to discard the idea as unpromising. Cars of this class are sold with the maximum wear of almost all technical units, the repair of which is very significant in terms of investment.

It is hard to disagree that starting a business by repairing its main component is at least strange. The best way out in this situation is to find and apply for a profitable loan to buy a new car. But this is already a topic for a completely different article.

Buying a foreign car

Perhaps the most interesting and attractive component of sales for most motorists is used foreign cars. Among experienced drivers, there is an opinion that any, even the most ancient car, made outside of our vast homeland, is much better than new domestic models. Say, both more comfortable and more convenient, and most importantly, much more reliable than all our VAZs and GAZs. It is difficult to argue with this, and it is not necessary. It is best to trust your own experience or the advice of specialists in these matters.

The main trap for a car enthusiast who decides to buy a foreign four-wheeled friend and does not know how to choose a used Renault Logan, for example, lies in the small amount of funds that he is willing to spend on the coveted purchase. Blinded by the desire to get behind the wheel of a prestigious car, a person very often turns a blind eye to various trifles associated with such an acquisition.

Find a foreign car without a past

Basically, all used foreign cars are imported into our territory from Europe. It is important for the future buyer to understand that not all cars are delivered legally. There may be several surprises that are far from being the most pleasant for potential buyers.

Firstly, a car can be trite on the wanted list. You will buy such a car by power of attorney, and at the first scheduled stop on the road, you can check it against the Interpol database. And if she's hijacked, believe me, you're in big trouble. And most importantly, after all contacts with law enforcement agencies, the car will still be seized. In this case, there will be no one to appeal to.

Secondly, there may be problems with customs clearance. As a rule, such cars have a temporary registration in the nearest EU countries. Such cars are much cheaper than those cleared and imported in accordance with all the rules. It is the low price that often attracts motorists who are tormented by the question of how to choose a used Logan.

It must be admitted that often such experiments end as badly as in the first case. Temporary registration is usually very short-lived. And after its completion, it will be necessary either to cross the border of the country where the car is registered, or to register it in your own country. Both in the first and in the second situation, serious costs are ahead. In any case, the difference that you managed to save when buying will have to pay extra.

And yet how to choose a used Renault Logan? As is the case with domestic brands, it is best to choose a car that is taken off any government register. When registering such a car, the law enforcement officers will check it at their bases and issue a permit for registration. Only after that, you can finally settle with the sellers and close the deal.

And do not forget that the answer to the question "how to choose a used foreign car" should take into account the cost of further maintenance of such a car. Quite often it happens that the initially low cost of a car is due precisely to the high cost of components for subsequent service. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with the reviews of people who have already bought such cars before buying, or consult at certified service centers serving the selected brand.

In conclusion, we note that when buying a used car, especially a foreign one, it is best to take it for a competent check to serious specialists of specialized service stations. If all of the above nuances are taken into account, then the car will serve you and your family for a very long time.

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Surveys conducted among Russian car enthusiasts show that only one in three buyers of used vehicles prioritizes reliability when choosing a car. Most prefer to be guided by desires and feelings: I wanted to - I bought it! Someone simply proceeds from how much finance they have available. Others look at the vehicles of friends and neighbors when buying. And in vain! A reliable used car will save the owner from frequent calls to the service center. This means that the owner will save money, time and nerves.

"Autocode" will tell you which used car is better to buy, based on the degree of its reliability.

What are the criteria for determining the reliability of a used car?

According to experts, reliable used cars must meet the following requirements:

• long service life;
• low frequency of malfunctions;
• affordable service (repair or replacement of parts and components should take place as soon as possible and with the least number of problems);
• good susceptibility to "gray" consumables.

The opinion of the specialists of this company is most interesting to car owners from Russia for three reasons:

• The rating information is collected by independent technical experts, therefore the information obtained in this way is considered the most objective (for example, the British Warranty Direct does this based on reports received from insurance companies, and Consumer Reports from the United States based on information collected from vehicle owners).
• Approximately 10 million used cars between the ages of two and 11 are checked annually
• Most of the brands and models of cars from the TÜV rating are supplied or have been previously supplied to our country, therefore, it is possible to buy a used car of the desired modification through an advertisement in a newspaper or on the Internet without much difficulty.

The TÜV rating is based on the inspection of one hundred used vehicles of each model. The more faults the experts find, the lower the place of the vehicle. See below which machines are considered the most reliable according to the TÜV rating.

The most reliable car with mileage 2006-2007

Here, the representatives of the German car industry - Porsche 911 - are among the leaders. Even after ten years of operation, driving such a used car is comfortable and safe (no less than 5% of tested vehicles have passed the inspection, which is an excellent indicator for this age). True, for most of the Russian car owners, this "iron horse" will remain a dream. To buy a used 2006 Porsche 911 - depending on the condition and mileage, you will have to fork out from 1.5 to 3.5 million rubles.

The most reliable used cars produced in 2008-2009

The leader is the same - the beautiful and inaccessible Porsche. In addition to 911, experts advise paying attention to the Porsche Boxster and Porsche 993.

The most reliable used cars 2010-2011

In this category, manufacturers from Germany lost the palm to engineers from Japan. The experts recognize Toyota Prius and Mazda 2 as the best used cars to pay attention to when buying (about 12% of vehicles did not pass the inspection).

The most reliable used cars 2012-2013

The best option among used vehicles in this age category is Toyota Prius (the indicator is slightly more than 7% of vehicles that “failed” the inspection). Also, when buying, you should pay attention to:

• Ford Kuga;
• Porsche Cayenne;
• Audi A4.

The whole VW family also deserves attention: Tiguan, Passat CC and Golf Plus.

The most reliable used cars 2014-2015

• Audi Q5;
• Toyota Avensis;
• BMW Z4;
• Audi A3;
• Mazda 3;
• Mercedes GLK.

And now a little fly in the ointment! German experts are testing used vehicles that "run" on quality foreign roads. On the Russian off-road, the number of breakdowns of used cars is increasing. Without pleading with the merits of the above-mentioned used cars, let us turn to the opinions of experts from Russia.

Which reliable used cars are best for Russian roads?

Kira Kaddaha, editor of autospot.ru:

“If you want to buy a reliable used car, feel free to give preference to Japanese manufacturers: Toyota, Lexus, Infiniti. These brands are renowned for quality, especially Lexus and Toyota. But keep in mind that they are on the list of the most hijacked. Also, Japanese brands are more expensive than Korean ones. Spare parts are 15-20% more expensive than the "Koreans". Therefore, the positions of manufacturers such as Hyundai and Kia have strengthened not only in the primary market, but also in the secondary one. Over the past few years, Koreans have been among the leaders. They are chosen for quality, warranty (Kia has 5 years) and, of course, for reliability. "

It should be noted that the opinions of domestic experts differ from the rating of German specialists. And, most likely, this is due to the fact that not every Russian can afford to buy 3-5-year-old BMW, Audi, Lexus or Mercedes (not to mention Porsche). Therefore, the main task for most Russian buyers is to find the optimal compromise between price and quality (reliability).

For those with a small amount of money, the best option would be:

• Hyundai Solaris (3-4-year-old used cars can be bought for 420-550 thousand rubles);
• Ford Focus (the cost of a used car in 2012-2013 is 450-550 thousand rubles);
• Renault Logan (the purchase of Logan from 2013-2014 will cost 370-400 thousand rubles);
• "Lada Kalina" (the price of the vehicle in 2013 - 250-270 thousand rubles).

And again, nowhere without representatives of the "people's car" from Germany: "Polo", "Passat" and "Golf". Prices for 5-7-year-old vehicles of these models vary from 400 to 600 thousand rubles.

Ilya Ushaev, Forsage Automobile Agency:

“Usually a person buying a car looks for it according to the following parameters:

• price;
• year of issue;
• mileage;
• liquid, so as not to lose in price;
• "I want it to be like new ...";
• better with one owner in the TCP;
• unbroken and unpainted.

This is roughly how most people see themselves the vehicle they want to buy. But once people are faced with reality, things get much more complicated.

Up to 150 thousand rubles. it is better to buy Renault Logan or Hyundai Accent (if in good condition - a win-win option).

Budget up to 300 thousand rubles. - the leader of Mitsubishi Lancer 9, Renault Logan, Chevrolet Aveo, Hyundai Getz.

For 450 thousand rubles. it is better to buy Ford Focus 2, Nissan Tiida, Honda Civic and Ford Fiesta (the latter is better for girls).

With a budget of 600-700 thousand rubles. there are a lot of options. For family people, these are Skoda Octavia 1.8 (automatic transmission, released from mid-2012, not to be confused with a DSG gearbox, we do not recommend it), Toyota Rav 4, Nissan Tiana (but be careful with a variator - this thing is very difficult to diagnose, and even after diagnostics it can run 150,000 km). Someone will be satisfied with a used Volvo S40 (expensive to maintain, like any European).

For 800,000 rubles. it is better to buy Hyundai ix35 or Kia Sportage, Santa Fe, Lexus IS250, Honda CRV. From Europeans you can buy "Audi A6", "Citroen C6" (restyled) and "BMW X5 (E70)".

In addition, those who have at their disposal an amount from 800 thousand to 1.2 million rubles, according to experts, when buying it is better to pay attention to the Chevrolet Captiva and Nissan X-Trail 2013-2015.

Summing up, it remains to be noted that if you want to buy a reliable used car, it is better to choose a vehicle of German or Japanese origin.

When buying a used vehicle, you should remember that, in addition to reliability, the legal cleanliness of the car is also important. You can check the vehicle for traffic police restrictions, find out if it is in bail or under arrest with bailiffs in a few minutes using the all-Russian Internet service "Autocode". Also on our website you can download a book from which you will learn how to buy a used car profitably and safely.

1. Bodywork:
1.1. We look at the gaps - for a car with a normal body, all slots along the length should be the same width.
1.2. We look at various seams (in the trunk, under the decorative floor) - they must be sealed with something like putty.
1.3. If the car has not been tinted, traces of paint should not be on any rubber and plastic body parts, tubes, wires, engine.
1.4. Compare the paint in the engine compartment and on the fenders - it should be the same.
1.5. Decals and decals are often applied to hide body defects.
1.6. Examine the side members carefully. If there was a blow and they were pulled out, traces still remain: knocked down paint and folds on the metal surface. To see this, they must be cleaned of dirt.
1.7. All doors should close in the same way, with the same sound and with the same force. If this is not the case, then the body is probably behaving.
1.8. Pay attention to the wheels. The main thing is that the rubber is worn out evenly, and there are no traces of impacts on the disks.
1.9. Each car has two or three places where it starts to rust. This usually happens under the rubber seals of windows, doors and trunk.
2. Engine, we inspect for a cold one:
2.1. As soon as the hood is opened, immediately smell the air above the engine - there should be absolutely no smell of gasoline.
2.2. Inspect all engine parts and assemblies for traces of oil. There should be no oil drips on a working engine.
2.3. If you find at least one nut or bolt with crumpled edges, it means that the engine has been "climbed".
2.4. If you see any gasket, traces of white or black sealant, paint or varnish - know that it was made in our country. The Japanese use only a gray-silver sealant, which is almost invisible.
2.5. If there is a black pasty coating inside the oil filler neck, the engine is probably overheating.
2.6. For a fully functional engine, everything that is visible inside the filler neck should be golden. If you find carbon deposits, you cannot trust such an engine without further diagnostics.
2.7. Overheating: rust in the area of ​​the radiator filler neck, or rust in the expansion tank.
2.8. Antifreeze should not be cloudy and opaque, and should not have oil stains and streaks on the surface.
2.9. The oil in the power steering reservoir and in the automatic transmission must have the same color (red-brown), be transparent and free of impurities, and, most importantly, smell the same. A burnt smell is unacceptable.
2.10. Inspect all rubber products on the engine. There should be no cracks on them. Pay special attention to high voltage wires, pipes and belts of the generator drive, pump, etc.
2.11. The engine cooling fan, if the engine is cold, should rotate with light hand force. There should be no backlash.
2.12. On the subject of oil zhora: we look at the candles (if allowed to unscrew), the color of the pipe from the inside.
3. Engine, put a newspaper under it, start:
3.1. As soon as the engine has started, open the radiator cap and make sure no air bubbles emerge from there. Otherwise, the engine must be diagnosed at a service station.
3.2. With the engine running, carefully open the oil filler cap. Make sure that oil droplets are trying to pop out from the inside, and there is an oil mist inside.
3.3. If with the lid open at approximately 1000 rpm. exhaust gases come out, which means there is overpressure in the crankcase and the piston group needs repair.
3.4. We put the cap on the neck. If the cover bounces, then the engine will soon require repair, but for now it will have increased oil consumption.
3.5. After warming up (1-2 minutes), when the arrow of the temperature gauge enters the operating range, touch the upper radiator pipe. It must be cold because the thermostat is still closed.
3.6. If the engine heats up for a long time, the radiator pipes are warm, not hot, then the thermostat is faulty or not at all.
3.7. Press the gas pedal sharply and fully. The engine should jerk and revive quickly, without interruptions or knocks. When the speed decreases, the engine jerks are not allowed. Crank the engine gently to about 3000 rpm. and release the accelerator pedal sharply. With a decrease in speed, jerking is not allowed.
3.8. When idle speed is established, turn on the interior heater motor, headlights, pressing the brake, put the automatic control knob in position "D" and sharply turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, then to the left. The engine should not stall. During all operations, someone familiar should listen to the engine for suspicious noises (the hood must be open).
3.9. Check the smoke in the exhaust. At idle, the smoke is almost invisible. As the RPM increases, the smoke becomes visible, but it should be pale blue in color. Black smoke means a malfunction of the fuel system, blue - the flow of oil into the combustion chambers, thick white smoke - the flow of antifreeze or water. In frosty or damp weather, smoke color is not a good enough indication of engine malfunction.
3.10. Start the engine, wait 10-15 seconds, turn off the engine and turn on the ignition again. If the emergency oil pressure reduction light comes on immediately, the engine is worn out. A good engine has high oil pressure in the system for up to 5 seconds.
3.11. With the engine running, engage the different transmission modes one by one. There should be no changes in the background noise.
3.12. Now that the check of the engine is basically finished, remove the newspaper that was spread beforehand from under it. If at least one drop of oil appears on it, the engine requires some kind of repair.
4. Walking:
4.1. Any car (except for large cars with a small engine) with two passengers, if it starts abruptly from a place, must turn the wheels in place. By checking that the car is capable of squealing rubber, you will ensure that the clutch is in satisfactory condition.
4.2. To check the condition of the drives of a front-wheel drive vehicle, unscrew the wheels all the way (both to the left and to the right) and start off sharply (on the rise). If the drive is in normal condition, you will not hear any clicks.
4.3. Use your weight to swing each of the four corners of the car with both hands. The machine should not do a second roll if the shock absorbers are normal. There shouldn't be any knocks.
4.4. Compare the distance between the edge of the fender and the tire tread of "your" car and others. This will determine whether the springs and springs have sagged or not.
4.5. Rock the steering wheel. There should be no knocking.
4.6. Try to inspect the brake disc. Its surface should be smooth and shiny, without scoring and radial waviness.
4.7. If possible, take a ride, preferably on a dirt road.
5. Salon.
5.1. Try to turn on and off all the buttons in the car, twist all the knobs, move all the levers, ask about their purpose. Switch on the radio and tune it to a frequency that does not have a transmitting station. Start the engine. Stop the engine. There should be no change in speaker noise.
5.2. Take a close look at the dashboard. Maybe any of the emergency bulbs have been turned off.
6. Under the car:
6.1. Pay attention to traces of oil on the gearbox, rear axle and on the underbody in front of the units.
6.2. Look for leaks in the shock absorbers, if the rubber bumpers and shock absorbers are intact.
6.3. Pay attention to the anthers of the wheel drives and steering. There should be no cracks or breaks on them.
7. We look at the documents and compare the numbers of the body and engine. The excuses that this figure will not be corrected at the customs in 5 minutes, it would have been 5 minutes long ago that he would have fixed it. Addition from the Namesake ("In NSK, often when you check the numbers, the sold one shouts:" Look at the docks, and I'll dive into the engine - I will dictate. "
8. We punch the year and month of the car release by the engine number. If we cannot do this from a mobile, then we send an SMS to a person who currently has the Internet.
9. Check for snag:
9.1. Dampness.
9.2. A specific smell, and, as a result, a lot of stinks.
9.3. We look at all the electrics - it does not work.
9.4. We turn on the conder and gradually sort out all the positions (at the feet, on the glass, etc.), see if the air duct flaps switch or not.
9.5. We look at the bolts in the engine and fasteners, and those that are difficult to get to in order to clean the same unism.
9.6. In the cabin, we look at the vertical adjustment of the seats (twists), sometimes they are rusted.
9.7. We look at the brackets for attaching the decorative floor in the trunk.
9.8. Fine sand particles can be hidden under the rubber door seals.
9.9. We open the driver's door and remove the sill, fold back the carpet to see a block with wires and chips sticking out of it at the bottom, pull out the chip and look at the contacts - if everything is fine, then the contacts inside the chip should be of normal copper color, and if the snorkel, then there you can see everything from white bloom to dirt and other nonsense.
9.10. We look at the mold when the floor is folded (on the inside of the carpet).
9.11. We look at the headlights - after water gets in, they darken.

Items 3.2 and 3.4 are not valid for all engines
all this is suitable for gasoline engines

Full of great options, but some of them have hidden issues that aren't obvious during a test drive. We hope this guide will help you recognize the signs of potential problems and make a more informed decision.

What to look for when checking a used car

When looking at a used car, pay attention to two things:

1. Signs of a serious problem or safety problem that should direct you to avoid the vehicle.
2. Minor issues to take care of if you decide to buy a car. Knowing the little things can help you negotiate a price. If you find signs of a serious problem with the car, there is no point in inspecting it further, move on to the next car.

Major problems include significant rust damage, engine and transmission problems, previous major accidents, flood damage, lack of maintenance, or anything that makes the vehicle unsafe or may require costly repairs. Minor problems are those that do not affect the safety or reliability of the vehicle, or can be easily fixed, including worn tires, minor suspension and brake problems, scratches, dents, etc.

What you may need when checking

If you have a small magnet, this can be useful for locating repaired corrosion spots. You may also need a paper towel to check your engine oil and a USB cable or CD to check your audio system. If you will be using a child seat, it is recommended that you take it with you to check if it is right for you. You also need a knowledgeable friend to help you think through the pros and cons and make the right decision. It helps a lot if you google general problems of a particular brand and model that interests you. You will know what to expect in the future, as well as what to look for when checking your vehicle. As a final step, we recommend checking the vehicle with your chosen mechanic before signing the agreement.

First step: quick inspection if there is a reason to avoid buying this car

This vehicle should be avoided if ...

• Start with a quick inspection. Rust stains should tell you that this car should be avoided. Why? Because the main components under the car can also rust, which makes the car SAFE. Look, for example, at the brake lines or the subframe (engine mount).
• Blue smoke from the exhaust.

You may find some problems with the engine when it starts up cold after the car has been idle for a while. If the engine rattles when starting, or you see blue or white smoke that smells like burnt oil, avoid the car, even if that’s the only drawback.

Also avoid vehicles with AT, Airbag (SRS), 4WD and other warning lights on.

Take a look inside. Most dealers will detail the cars before showing them, but stay away from the car if it looks really dirty. What do the steering wheel, driver's seat and interior door handle look like? Are they badly worn out? Does it smell bad inside? Bad odors inside the car are difficult to get rid of.

Are there any signal icons? If a car has SRS (airbag) lit, it will be costly to repair, that car should be avoided. Problems with advanced security systems such as Blind Spot Monitoring, Live Camera, or Radar are also expensive to repair. AT (transmission) or 4WD warning lights also indicate costly problems.

Is the brake pedal lowered too much? Look for another car. Does it take too long to engage when you switch to Drive or Reverse mode during a test drive? Do you feel a strong jolt when the gear shifts or shifts? Avoid this car, there are many other options available.

Are there any indications that the car was being used as a rental car? Buying a used car is not always a bad idea as long as the price reflects it and the car is in good shape.

Darling or not

The first criterion for a purchase is its cost. Define a budget, and, based on this, start browsing ads on the Internet. After determining the approximate cost of the desired car, you can visit the local car market and check what prices are there. Also, be sure to check with a mechanic you trust.

What class

The choice of a used car class depends on several factors, the main of which is the purchase budget. Also, of course, the choice depends on personal preference and expectations from a future purchase.

Mileage indicators

Before choosing a used car, you should consider its current mileage. Of course, the less he traveled, the better. On average, 20,000 km per year is considered the norm. Of course, some cars travel less than others, but many drive a lot more because of the increased distance. For example, a car produced in 2015 with a mileage of about 100,000 is considered normal in 2020. If the car has 170,000 km. or more, it is better not to buy it.

Year of issue

The year of manufacture is directly related to the mileage and is one of the main selection criteria. To choose the right car for yourself, the year of manufacture must be taken into account in conjunction with the cost and mileage.

Body condition

Look at the reflection of the side of the car. She can tell you if all the panels are lined up and you can see signs of body repair. The car looks good if the panels are lined up and the paint texture looks even.

The next tip is the back door. She's showing signs. Not only is the texture uneven, you can see some lines just above the molding. These lines are left over from grinding. Sanding is performed to level the body fill and primer to prepare the surface for painting.

Check the production date on the VIN sticker. When choosing between two cars of the same model year, it is better to choose the one that will be built later, all other things being equal. You will need a VIN number if you want to check the history or reviews of a car.

Interior condition

Check if the used car has at least two key fobs and that both are working. A new car comes with two or three keys or fobs; specify how much goes with a used car. If there is only one key and the rest are lost, the vehicle must be towed to the dealer to cut and program the new key fob. It is not cheap.

Check the condition of the seats. Look for burnt marks and other damage. Minor damage can be repaired; ask if the owner can arrange renovations. Make sure both front seats move back and forth and recline. Do you feel free space? Is the seat heating element working? Common seat problems include faulty seat heaters, broken seat frames, and unusual noises when moving or tilting. Electric seat mechanism under repair. Check the condition of the seat belts.

Suspension condition

The condition of the oil on the dipstick can tell a lot about the condition of the suspension. If you are uncomfortable doing these tests, leave them to the mechanics. Make sure the engine is off and the handbrake is on. Check your user manual for tips before choosing.

• Locate the engine oil dipstick. It usually has a brightly colored handle that says "Engine Oil".
• Pull out the dipstick and check the oil level and condition. If the oil looks very dirty and the level is very low, it means that the engine is using a lot of oil or is poorly maintained.
• Check the condition of the probe itself; if it is covered with black deposits, this is also a sign of poor engine condition.
• If there is no or very little oil on the dipstick, or the coolant is mixed with oil, avoid the vehicle.

If your car has a transmission fluid dipstick (many modern cars do not have one), check its condition upon purchase. For a better view, drip some liquid onto a white paper towel. The transmission fluid must be clean and transparent. If the oil looks very dirty or smells burnt, this is a sign of excessive wear in the transmission.

Power unit operation

Before checking anything under the hood, make sure the engine is off, the transmission is in park mode, and the handbrake is on. A quick look under the hood can reveal a few things about the car. Experts recommend that beginners pay attention to the following points:

• Leaks (avoid vehicle if there is significant leakage).
• Burnt oil or antifreeze smell (avoid vehicle).
• Anything that suggests that the car was not serviced regularly.
• Signs of poor quality repairs.
• Modifications that indicate that the vehicle has been racing or otherwise damaged.

Just because the engine compartment looks clean and shiny does not mean there are no leaks or other problems. Owners often flush the engine compartment before putting the vehicle up for sale. Watch out for leaks under the machine. The only thing that should drip from under the car is water from the drain of the air conditioner when it is turned on. The air conditioner drain is usually located under the passenger side.

If the battery terminal is highly corroded, not only does this car need a new battery and stand, it means that this car has not been serviced regularly, otherwise this problem would have been fixed during one of the inspections.

Electrician

Window regulator problems are common in many used cars. Sometimes the window lowers well, but rises very slowly or crookedly. Loud abnormal noises when the power window is on indicate a problem.

The rear wiper is another part that often breaks down in older cars. Check all wiper and washer functions.

Test the infotainment system

The only thing that constantly raises owner complaints in modern cars is the infotainment system. Here are some of the common complaints: areas of the screen lose sensitivity to touch, or the screen internally fails (over RUB 65,000 for a replacement). The system is responding slowly, glitches or unexpected restart. Some phones connect, some don't.

Infotainment issues are also costly if they go out of warranty and you'll need to visit your mechanic to do so. This means that the infotainment system must be checked thoroughly. If connecting your phone via Bluetooth is important to you, try connecting your phone. See if the system is playing your music. Check the touch screen and other features.

Rear view camera test

The rear view camera (if available) should also be checked. This is another area of ​​concern in many modern cars. The rear view camera may be intermittent, or the image may be blurry or distorted. The rear view camera is also expensive to repair.

Check the stove and air conditioner

Air conditioning problems are common in many used cars. With the engine running, turn on the air conditioner. You should feel cold air coming out of the vents shortly after turning on the air conditioner.

Check all stove fan speed settings. Does it provide good heating? Beware of the musty smell from the holes. A smell of burnt oil from the air vents indicates possible oil leaks in the engine compartment. Antifreeze (coolant) smell is also a sign of a problem. If your vehicle has a separate ventilation and air conditioning system for rear passengers, check it as well.

The condition of the tires and wheels can tell a lot about the condition of the chassis. Some aftermarket low profile discs bend easily. Check your disks. Some alloy wheels, especially low profile ones, can bend easily after hitting a pothole. If the rim is bent on the outside, then often the damaged spot is on the inside. The only way to find out is during the pre-purchase inspection, when the car is being lifted on a lift.

A sign of a curved rim is vibration felt on the highway, although it is not always easy to detect during a short test drive. Replacing such a rim can be expensive. Original equipment discs are more durable, but they can bend too.

Cracked tire sidewall

Check your tires. Do they look worn out? Do they have cuts or other damage? If a tire has cracks in the sidewall, it will need to be replaced even if the tread is still in order. Are all tires from a well-known brand or from an unnamed manufacturer? Are all tires evenly worn? Uneven tire wear indicates a problem with the suspension or wheel balancing.

If the tire has a bulge (bubble) on the sidewall, then it must be replaced. The bump cannot be repaired and a tire with such damage is dangerous to drive.

The last 4 digits of the DOT number on the tire indicate the date the tire was manufactured. Why is it important? If the tire is very old (more than 6-7 years old), even if the tread is in good condition, it may need to be replaced in the near future, as the rubber of the tire deteriorates over time. Check if the tire size matches the size indicated on the sticker. The tire sticker is usually located next to the VIN sticker.

New rubber versus worn tire

The new tires have tread depths from 10/32 ″ to 11/32 ″. The new tires can last up to 65,000 km. For example, a tire can still pass a safety check but is worn down to about 4/32 ″, which means this car will need new tires soon. Look at the indicator wear strip. The cost of a set of tires, depending on the size and brand, ranges from 25,000 to 65,000 rubles. Low profile 18 "and larger tires are more expensive. Run-flat tires are also expensive.

There are 2 different categories of silencers: reactive and dissipative. Each muffler has a different mechanism that is used to muffle exhaust and noise. Your car user manual should indicate which type of muffler is best for that brand, which will help you get started choosing the perfect muffler. Warnings for new mufflers should also be listed here.

Fuel consumption

Fuel consumption can be easily determined during a test drive. First, check the manufacturer's declared consumption. Then fill up a full tank of the tested car and cover 100 km. (or 50, preferably not less). To determine the fuel consumption, then refuel the tank before filling and check how much fuel has been used.

type of drive

Which type of drive is best for you - front, rear or all-wheel - it's up to you individually. Check with your mechanic for the conditions of use and flow rates on the different types of actuator.

Inspect glass

Look closely at the windshield. Pay attention to any chips, scratches, or other damage. Some star-shaped chips and cracks, if large enough, can cause the vehicle to fail the safety check. Replacing the windshield costs from 20,000 rubles. for a windshield for the aftermarket up to more than 60,000 rubles. for the original part.

A broken wiper can scratch your windshield. This scratch will cause glare when driving at night. Such scratches can be caused by sand particles trapped under the wiper blades. If the windshield needs to be replaced and has a front camera or radar sensor attached to it, it may be necessary to calibrate after replacing the windshield.

Inspect the headlights

Check for fogged headlights and if all headlights are working. Many modern cars have LED strips built into their headlights or taillights and they look great. Many amateurs do not take into account the fact that if the LED strip inside the headlight stops working, you may have to replace the entire headlight unit, which in some cars exceeds 60,000 rubles.

It's not like it used to be - I changed the light bulb and the problem is solved. Genuine high intensity (HID) lights from the manufacturer are also expensive to repair. The first signs of failure of an LED strip are when one headlight flickers or shines less than the other. The first sign of a HID failure is that one light comes on immediately and the other comes on after a significant delay. Watch out for moisture and fog inside the headlights.

Brand reputation

The reputation of the brand depends not only on your feelings, but also on the durability of individual components and the car itself as a whole. Of course, more expensive brands guarantee a longer period of use, more reasonable fuel consumption, comfort and technical equipment of the interior. On the other hand, famous brands usually offer more expensive parts, although their range and availability is much wider than for cars of less popular brands and models.

Additional criteria

If something looks out of place or is missing, careless repairs may have been made. For example, if the bolt clearly looks out of place, there should be an engine mount in that location, but it is missing. It doesn't look like a quality renovation. A couple more examples of poor quality repairs: sloppy wiring, bad leak in the valve cover, etc.

What are the signs of flooding damage

Flash floods are becoming common. If the car has been flooded, it will have more problems in the future. Modern cars have many electronic components that can be damaged if submerged under water.

You can find the dirty water mark on the speaker cover. Look for signs of moisture under the carpet. Check the trunk and spare wheel for water damage. The history record can also reveal flood damage. Be careful if the report indicates that the vehicle came from a recent flood area.

Check trunk, spare wheel, jack and key

Check for wheel lock key and tire change tools. Check if the car has a good spare wheel and a working jack. If the wheels are equipped with locks, make sure there is a locking key. Check the spare wheel for moisture.

Problems often become more apparent after the vehicle is fully warmed up. For example, an automatic transmission may not start working until after 20-30 minutes of driving, or the engine may show signs of overheating with longer driving. Some problems (eg noisy wheel bearings, transmission vibration, alignment problems, noisy tires) are more noticeable when driving on a highway at higher speeds. Suspension and steering noises are easier to notice when driving slowly on uneven roads.

What to look for during a test drive

When the car is stationary:

• Do you feel a strong jolt or knock when shifting to reverse (transmission or rocker problems, avoid the car)?
• Do you feel excessive engine vibration when the car is idling (possibly poor engine mount)?

In the city:

• Are there any hesitations or jerks during acceleration?
• Is the engine stable and responsive or sluggish?
• Are there “howls” or other abnormal noises or vibrations when accelerating or decelerating (transmission, AWD, gearbox, etc.)?
• Do you notice clicking or popping noise when shifting gears (possibly poor gearbox connections)?
• Do you feel shaking or lagging when shifting between gears (avoid the car if so)?
• Are there any jolts when stopping (problems with the transmission or four-wheel drive system, avoid the vehicle)?
• When the engine is stopped at a red light, is the engine idling or moving up and down?
• Does the car keep straight well or pulls to the side (wheel alignment problems)?
• Is the steering wheel positioned correctly when driving straight ahead (wheel balancing problems)?
• Is there a knocking bump or rattling sound when driving on rough roads (suspension or steering problems)?
• Does the car “bounce a lot” up and down when driving over bumps (bad shock absorbers or struts)?
• Are there any noises when braking? Does the car brake during braking? Does the brake pedal come down too low or feel too hard (avoid the car if so)?
• Does the hand brake hold the car when parked on a slope?

On the road:

• Do you feel vibration at higher speeds (possible wheel and tire problems)?
• Is there hum or rumbling (possibly noisy wheel bearings or caped tires)?
• Does the steering wheel swing when braking (warped or rusty brake discs)?

After test drive

If something is wrong, consider testing another car of the same model for comparison. Discuss any issues that need to be resolved prior to signing the purchase / sale agreement. For example, if a car needs new tires and the seller promises to “take care of it,” discuss in detail which tires will be fitted. Cheapest or reputable brand? This is best done in writing. The same goes for any warranty, check the contract and see what it covers. Verbal promises are just verbal promises.

It is recommended that you have your vehicle inspected thoroughly by an experienced mechanic before purchasing. There are many components that can only be properly inspected when the vehicle is being lifted on a lift. How to do it? Many used car buyers arrange for a pre-screening of a supplier specializing in this brand. It can cost from 5,000 to 10,000 rubles. If possible, speak directly to the technician who inspected the vehicle to clarify any findings and general opinion of the vehicle.