In the fall of 2015, the LAD family of cars was supplemented by the top model - the Vesta car, produced in the sedan body. When asking the question "is the valve pressing on the Lada Vesta", you need to clearly imagine what kind of engine we are talking about: about a 1.6-liter Russian or Nissan, or maybe about the latest VAZ development with the name "21179".

Here options are considered that are related to cars that are being produced now or those that will begin to be produced in the near future. Also, an 8-valve engine was developed for Vesta - it definitely does not bend the valves and will definitely not be installed on top sedans in 2016.

Read more about the engines that the Lada Vesta line is equipped with in the material: What engines are installed on Lada Vesta: technical characteristics and their resource!

ICE VAZ-21129, 106 "forces" (valve bends)

A bit of history. Motor 21129 is a modified version of another engine, namely, 21127. The last of them, when the timing belt broke, successfully bent its valves, although grooves were made on the pistons (Fig. 1). The point is that the depth of the grooves was not sufficient: when certain conditions were met, the valve "met" the piston with all the ensuing consequences.

With the transition to a new generation of internal combustion engines, that is, to 21129, the design of the pistons was finalized. But the external shape has not changed much, and although the notches remain, their depth is still insufficient.

Here the question was considered whether the Lada Vesta valve with the "21129" engine is bending. And the answer was unequivocal: yes, oppression.

In theory, the problem with valve bending is typical for all VAZ engines equipped with 4 valves per cylinder. Each new 16-valve "inherits" it. An exception is one rarity - the VAZ-2112 internal combustion engine, the volume of which is 1.6 liters. There the notches are made to the fullest (Fig. 2).

122-horsepower motor "21179" (valve bends)

By its design, the VAZ-21179 internal combustion engine does not differ much from its predecessors. The working volume was increased to 1774 ml, which was achieved by changing the length of the piston stroke: from 75.6 mm to 84.0 mm.

The piston itself is now fitted to the cylinder better than in the 21127 and 21129 engines. The distance from the piston pin to the piston crown has increased by 1.3 mm to 26.7 mm. But deeper grooves in the bottom did not appear. The timing mechanism still drives the belt, and when it breaks, no one canceled the ability to bend the valves.

Now we know if the valves are pressed on the Lada Vesta with a 1.8-liter engine. The answer will be the same as for all 16-valve VAZ internal combustion engines (with the exception of 2112). The problem with the transition to a new generation remains the same. And they do not intend to return to the "heavy" pistons at the VAZ.

The timing drive on 21179 engines is equipped with not one, but two tension rollers. What has been done so that the structure is less susceptible to tension in the timing belt.

One of the automatic tensioning machines can jam, but then the second automatic roller will take over its function.

Pistons that do not bend the valve

Piston kits for some "old" 16-valve valves are available from third parties. These parts are supplied with deep grooves. The point is that the piston does not reach the plates and cannot bend the valves.

ShPG elements of different engines (21127, 21129, 21179) are compatible. But it is not necessary to install pistons from "old engines" into Vesta's engine:

• In the internal combustion engine 21129 after such "tuning" the friction losses will increase;
• If the pistons from the 26th or 27th engine are installed in the ICE 21179, the working volume will immediately change.

"29th", as well as "79th" engine Lada Vesta bends valves only with "VAZ" pistons. But after installing a "tuning" part, do not expect an increase in power. And also, using non-standard elements, you can greatly reduce the resource (lose the warranty, get unforeseen consequences).

Nissan HR16DE engine (not oppression, there is a chain)

In most configurations with a manual transmission, the Vesta sedan is equipped with a Nissan engine. This engine is planned to be installed on bodies: station wagon, cross and coupe! Its name is HR16DE, and the working volume is 1.6 liters. Let's take a look at what the piston crown looks like.

No "deep grooves" are provided here. Now let's pay attention to how the timing mechanism works.

There is no toothed belt here - it is replaced by a chain. It is difficult to imagine the following two situations:

• The chain could jump over the teeth of one or more gears;
• One of the elements was damaged so badly that the damage caused it to rupture.

As long as the chain remains intact, valves and pistons cannot meet each other, no matter what happens to the engine. The only bad thing is that the chain can jam.

Is the Lada Vesta valve bending with a Nissan ICE? The answer "no" would be wrong - breaking the circuit is not ruled out. But in reality, it will be almost impossible to face such a situation. Let's see why.

Four well-known facts

The resource indicator for the timing chain always exceeds the engine life. This is the first fact, but the condition must be fulfilled: the oil change must be timely. In general, the chain breaks down gradually, and this is accompanied by symptoms:

• Audible overtones (chirping) at idle;
• At the moment of passing the "problem area", a phase shift may be observed.

The last defect is detected using computer diagnostics.

It takes a certain amount of time from the appearance of any symptom to the complete breaking of the circuit. And in general, a "defective circuit" can work for a long time. This was another, fourth fact.

The consequences of a broken timing belt, an example in the video

It is noticeable that VAZ specialists, working on the new Lada Vesta sedan, set themselves the goal of ensuring maximum reliability and problem-free model. That is why the powertrain lineup includes motors familiar from other Alliance vehicles. Of course, they have weak points, but all "childhood diseases" have long been defeated and by modern standards, these motors are considered very reliable.

What engines are installed on the Lada Vesta?

Three power units were saved for the novelty, two of which are domestic, and one is imported:

1. VAZ 21116 - 1.6 liters, 8 valves, 87 liters. with.;
2. VAZ 21127 - 1.6 liters, 16 valves, 106 liters. with.;
3. Renault-Nissan HR16DE-H4M - 1.6 liters, 16 valves, 114 hp with.

Problems with the VAZ 21116 engine

This is a modified power unit of the VAZ 21114 type. The modifications resulted in the installation of a 39% lightweight ShPG from Federal Mogul. The engine is good because when the timing belt breaks, the valve does not bend. Nevertheless, if signs of a malfunction are detected, it is better not to delay and immediately go to the service station.

Engine design features

The operation of this power unit has a number of distinctive features:

- the need for periodic valve adjustment;

- frequent replacement of the oil filter;

- rapid wear of the components of the cooling system;

- oil leaks through a poor-quality valve cover seal;

- frequent breaking of the brackets on the intake exhaust pipe - instead of brass nuts, steel nuts are used.

Typical malfunctions

Friction and uneven operation - to find the cause, it is required to measure the compression in the cylinders. If in one of them it is noticeably different, this means that the valve is burnt out. With a slight difference in performance, the source of the problem is in the gasket, or you just need to adjust the valve. If everything is fine with compression, the cause should be looked for in the ignition module.

Floating RPM - This is usually a problem with newer machines. To fix it, you should go to the service center, where it will be eliminated under warranty. Otherwise, it is required to inspect the vacuum cleaner, the throttle position sensor and the idle speed regulator.

The engine does not heat up to the required temperature level - it's the thermostat. In addition, even new components often fail. Consequently, the breakdown may recur soon after replacement.

Engine noises and knocking - usually the whole thing in the valves that need to be adjusted. If, however, a muffled metallic rumble is heard, increasing when the accelerator pedal is pressed, then the connecting rod bearings or the crankshaft bearings rattled. This problem is solved only in the service. The knocking of the pistons in the cylinders is also possible. This is also a reason to visit the dealer at the service station.

Problems with the VAZ 21127 engine

The VAZ 21127 engine is a slightly modified and modified power unit of the VAZ 21126. The differences lie in the installed intake system, equipped with a resonance chamber with the ability to adjust its volume due to controlled dampers.

Instead of DMRV, the designers installed DBP + DTV, which eliminated the problem with floating turns. Like its predecessor, this engine also bends the valve when the timing belt breaks.

Peculiarities

Owners of Lada Vesta need to take into account possible problems, as well as know the options for solving them:

1. Unstable operation and inability to start - can be triggered by irregularities in the operation of the timing, problems with fuel pressure, air leakage, breakdown of the throttle valve, as well as a malfunction of some sensors.
2. Loss of power - the cause is a burned-out gasket, as a result of which the compression in the cylinders decreases, as well as the wear of the components (burnout of the pistons, wear of the rings and cylinders). However, the owners of the new Vesta are not threatened with such problems (at least at first).
3. Valve bending - this problem can be solved by replacing the standard pistons with those of the plug-free type.

Typical malfunctions

They are similar to those that characterize the VAZ 21126 engine.

The Vesta VAZ 21127 engine can start to troit. In this case, flushing the nozzles will not be superfluous. If this procedure does not help, you should pay attention to the ignition coils, spark plugs and measure the compression. However, it is best to immediately go to the service station.

There may also be a problem of warming up to operating temperature. This usually occurs when the thermostat is faulty.

Noises and knocks in the engine can occur due to hydraulic lifters, as well as problems with the main and connecting rod bearings or pistons. If vibration occurs in the Vesta motor, it is worth inspecting the nozzles and high-voltage wires.

Renault-Nissan HR16DE-H4M

The production of this power unit was launched in 2006. In general, the engine, which so far remains the most powerful in the Vesta lineup (the output of a 1.8-liter unit is questionable), is considered very reliable and is capable of driving about 250,000 km to the "capital".

Focused on the AI-95, but easily "digests" the 92nd. In addition, in his timing system, a chain is used that is reliable, so the owners of Vesta should not worry about stretching it too early.

Typical malfunctions

There are few of them:

The Vesta motor can stall - the reason is a breakdown of the ignition unit relay. And Nissan has already recalled the cars because of this. In this case, you will have to buy a new relay for Vesta.

Whistle - it is typical for many Nissan engines. In this case, Vesta may have a generator belt whistling, which will need to be tightened or replaced.

Vibration - to eliminate this phenomenon, it is usually enough to change the right motor mount.

Burned-out exhaust pipe ring - the car starts to work louder. The gasket needs to be replaced.

As you can see, Lada Vesta will be equipped with proven power units. All their weak points have long been known from experience on other models. However, the top-end, 114-strong HR16DE-H4M promises to be the most problem-free.

Replacing the timing belt of the car Lada Vesta

We prepare the car for work. We install the car on a lift or on a viewing pit. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

Remove the drive belt.

We stop the flywheel from turning.

With a 17 head, unscrew bolt 1, Figure 1, damper mounts, remove washer 2 and crankshaft damper 3.

We wrap the damper mounting bolt in place.

Remove the flywheel locking device (if applicable).

We install the traverse 1, Figure 2, on the car to hang the engine, put the hook 2 of the traverse into the eyelet 3 of the right eyelet, and hang the power unit on the right side.

Using the TorxE12 head, we unscrew and remove two bolts 1, Figure 3, fastening the power unit to the right support 2 of the engine mount.

We mark with a marker the position of the right support.

With the same head, we unscrew the two bolts 3 securing the right support of the suspension of the power unit to the body and remove the right support.

Using a 5 hexagon, unscrew the five bolts with washers, and remove the upper protective cover 1, Figure 4.

We unscrew the three bolts with the same wrench and remove the lower protective timing cover.

With a 17 key, turn the crankshaft by the damper mounting bolt until the mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley matches the mark on the oil pump housing. In this case, the marks of the camshaft pulleys must coincide with the marks on the rear protective cover.

We loosen the bolt 1, Figure 5, fastenings of the automatic tensioner 2, unscrewing it by 2 - 3 turns, and remove the distance washer and the timing belt 3 from the crankshaft pulley (use a 17 spanner wrench and a flat screwdriver).

Continuation of the article on page 2 ..

The main task of the timing belt (timing belt) is to transfer the rotation of the crankshaft to the camshaft, which presses the cams on the valves. This article will tell you about when and how you need to change this part on eight- and sixteen-valve engines installed on a Lada-Vesta car.

What is the time to replace the timing belt on the Lada-Vesta

According to the maintenance regulations, it is necessary to change the timing belt for a "Lada-Vesta" with engines 21129, 21179 (16 valves) with a mileage of 180 thousand kilometers. Check the condition - every 90 thousand kilometers. For modifications with 8-valve 11189, these intervals are less - 70 and 15 thousand kilometers, respectively.

Part numbers

Since on the installed motors in the piston bottom there are no grooves for the valves, which allow them to avoid bending when the belt breaks, then there is no need to save on this consumable. It is preferable to install an original belt or a replacement from Contitech and Gates.

Original

In the spare parts catalog of AvtoVAZ, the required spare parts are indicated by the following numbers:

• 2108-01006040-82 for engine 11189;
• 8201069699 for engines 21129 and 21179.

The minimum price for exist.ru is 360 and 2500 rubles, respectively.

Substitutes

The required tool for replacing the timing belt on Vesta with your own hands

You will need:

• assistant;
• inspection pit;
• jack;
• prefabricated support or substitute;
• end heads: 10, 13, 15, 16, 17 mm, Torx E10, E12;
• bits: Torx T20, T55;
• slotted screwdriver;
• circlip pliers;
• a knob for heads and a hollow metal tube of a suitable diameter, 30-40 cm long;
• hexagon: 5mm.

Replacing the timing belt on Vesta with an 11189 engine (1.6 liters, 8 valves)

The procedure is as follows:

1. Park the machine in the inspection pit and raise the parking brake lever. Loosen the nuts on the right front wheel.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Jack up the machine, install the stand and remove the jack.
4. Remove the wheel.
5. Remove the timing cover by unscrewing 3 bolts with a “10” head.
6. Loosen the bolt securing the generator to the bracket on the cylinder block, move it towards the block and remove the generator belt.
7. Align the marks on the camshaft pulley and cylinder head by turning the crankshaft clockwise with the “17” crown. It is recommended to unscrew the plugs to facilitate rotation.
8. Lock the crankshaft by inserting a screwdriver into the flywheel teeth through the starter hole. To remove the starter, you need to disconnect the power cable by unscrewing the nut with the “13” head and unscrew the 3 fastening bolts with the Torx E10 head.
9. Unscrew the bolt from the crankshaft with the head “17” with an extension from the hollow tube and remove the alternator pulley and the washer under it.
10. Loosen the nut fixing the tensioner roller by half a turn with the “15” head.
11. Remove the belt.
12. Install a new part by sliding the left branch onto the water pump pulley and roller and then onto the camshaft pulley.
13. Insert pliers into the grooves on the tension roller and turn it until the 2 rectangular marks coincide and tighten the nut with the “15” head.
14. Check for correct installation by turning the crankshaft 2 turns. If the marks on the pulleys and the engine do not match, then reinstall the belt. Otherwise, install all the removed parts back.

Replacing the timing belt on Vesta with a 21129 engine (1.6 liters, 16 valves)

1. The procedure is as follows:
2. Follow steps 1-4 from the previous method.
3. Remove the right engine support:
   • Remove the engine mudguard (protection) by unscrewing 13 screws with a “10” head.
   • Place a jack under the oil pan and raise the engine.
   • Unscrew the head “16” 2 bolts securing the support to the body.
   • Lower the right side of the engine so that the support is below the lower edge of the side member.
   • Unscrew 2 bolts securing support to engine with Torx E12 head and remove.
4. Unscrew 5 bolts with a hexagon from the upper timing cover and remove it.
5. Unscrew 10 screws with a Torx T20 bit and use a screwdriver to remove the clips securing the right wheel arch liner to the body and remove it.
6. Remove the accessory belt:
   • Hook up the plug on the tensioning roller with a slotted screwdriver.
   • Loosen the nut on the roller with the “13” head
   • Insert the T55 bit into the groove on the roller. Turn the part clockwise to release the tension and remove the belt.
7. Turn the crankshaft head “by 17” until the marks on the camshaft pulleys (raised points) match the marks on the cylinder head cover (triangular slots in the plate).
8. Perform step number 8, 9 from the previous method
9. Unscrew the 3 screws holding the lower timing case cover to the cylinder block with a hexagon.
10. Follow steps 10, 11 from the previous method.
11. Put the right branch of the new part alternately on the crankshaft pulley, intake camshaft (right), exhaust (left).
12. Keeping the right branch taut, slide the belt over the water pump pulley and idler pulley.
13. Follow steps 13 and 14 from the previous method.

Replacing the timing belt on Vesta with a 21179 engine (1.8 liters, 16 valves)

The process of replacing the timing belt on this motor does not differ from replacing on the 21129 engine.

In custody

Summing up, we can say that replacing the timing belt with a Lada-Vesta with 16-valve power units is a complicated procedure in comparison with replacing it with an 8-valve engine. If you don't want to bother with this work, then it is better to entrust it to auto mechanics at the service station. The replacement cost will be from 4000-5000 rubles.

Replacing the timing belt Lada Vesta SV Cross is one of the most important procedures that can be attributed to routine vehicle maintenance. The timing belt is made of dense wear-resistant rubber reinforced with nylon threads. But no matter how strong the timing belt is, it can still break. If the timing belt breaks on the Lada Vesta Sv cross, the valves will bend. Repair after a timing belt break can be considered "overhaul", since in most cases it is required to install new valves and their guides, as well as pistons. Even with the smallest damage, the motor will have to be disassembled and repaired. And this procedure is not cheap. Therefore, in order not to fly into a large amount, it is necessary to change the timing belt and rollers in a timely manner.

It is enough just to remember the Lada Priora, which also had a similar timing belt replacement interval. But in 90% of all Priors released from the factory, the belt went barely up to 120,000 km. I think that it is unlikely that Vesta has changed something for the better. Therefore, it is better to change the timing belt not by 180 thousand km, but by a maximum of 70 thousand km.

How much will it cost to replace the timing belt on the Lada Vesta Cross SV?

The rest can be done by hand. If you do work on the service, you will have to spend at least 1000 rubles for the work. We will save on work and do everything ourselves. So let's go.

Spare parts for replacing the timing belt Lada Vesta SV Cross

1. Timing belt - LADA 8201069699. This is the original number. Using it, you can find an order for this part through the online store, as well as pick up duplicates.

The Vesta timing belt has 132 teeth, a width of 27.4 mm and a length of 1257 mm. Suitable for both.

3. Pump - LADA 211261307010. This is a standard VAZ pump. suitable for Vesta, H-Ray, Priora.

Replacing the timing belt Lada Vesta SV Cross - progress of work

1. The first step is to put the car on the handbrake and fold the negative terminal of the battery.

3. Place the car on a jack and remove the front right wheel.
4. Then dismantle the front right wheel arch liner.
5. Remove the Lada Vesta alternator belt.

6. Using a 17 ″ wrench, turn the crankshaft pulley bolt so that the top marks of the camshafts coincide with the grooves on the plastic timing case.

7. Use a 17 ″ wrench to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. We remove the crankshaft pulley and restrictor washer from it.
8. Use a 5 "hexagon to turn the remaining lower part of the timing belt cover. In total, you need to unscrew three bolts - 3 at the top and 2 at the bottom.

9. Using a 15 ″ wrench, loosen the tension roller bolt.
10. Remove the belt and turn off both rollers completely - tension and bypass.
11. Install new rollers in place of the old ones. The idler roller can be tightened, the tension roller can only be slightly tightened.
12. Install the new belt in place of the old one. We make sure once again that the labels are set correctly. The new belt is first put on the camshaft, then stretched to the crankshaft gear with a tensioner and put on the far camshaft (exhaust valves).
13. With a retainer ring puller, we turn the tension roller until the marks are aligned and stretch the roller with a wrench.

14. We make two turns of the crankshaft to make sure that the marks are not strayed. If everything is in place, then we collect the disassembled parts back. And we check the operation of the engine.

Timing replacement video Lada Vesta SV Cross

That's all! Replacing the timing belt Lada Vesta Cross SV can be considered complete.

The timing belt is a device that distributes the work of the drive between the toothed pulleys of the crankshaft and the timing itself (gas distribution mechanism). It is made of durable rubber, and on the outside has a cogged base, with the help of which it creates movement. Replacing the timing belt Lada Vesta is provided by the technological instructions after about 200,000 km of driving. However, if a part is not manufactured to all specifications, the service life will be significantly reduced. Therefore, you need to think in advance about replacing the Lada Vesta timing belt, which can bend the valves on the engine in the event of a breakdown.

Does the valve bend when the timing belt breaks?

Many owners are interested in a similar question, because folding back is not so cheap. Experts answer it positively. Valve breakage occurs on most modern car brands that use a timing belt in their engines.

The design of the 122-horsepower 21179 engine and the VAZ-21129 internal combustion engine is likely to bend them if the belt breaks. Even in spite of the fact that grooves were introduced into the piston. The depth of the latter was not sufficient, so the torn belt continued to bend the valves. The creators of Lada Vesta did not tire of replacing the piston system, but they did not achieve serious progress in solving the problem. The timing belt that had flown off still had no difficulty in bending the valve mechanism.

The AvtoVAZ product with Nissan motors, where a chain connection is provided, is not able to exert influence on the valves, because it almost never breaks instantly, but fails gradually. The question of whether the valve bends on the Lada Vesta has to be attributed only to the belts.

Replacement algorithm and required tools

1. The car is installed on a lift. After that, the negative terminal on the battery is removed, the alternator belt drive and starter are dismantled. Then we lower the lift.
2. The traverse is installed on the right side of the motor. The hook is used to raise the engine. Using Torx12 heads, remove a couple of bolts and two more - using Torx The hexagon is needed in order to unscrew the eight fasteners (five on top, three on the bottom) on the drive guard.
3. The next stage is fundamentally dependent on the type of engine installed on the vehicle. Therefore, it is necessary to find the exact correspondence pattern. The video of replacing the timing belt with Lada Vesta will more clearly tell you about these subtleties that warn against valve breakdowns. After the belt is installed, you need to adjust the tension and check the operation of the system.

Replacing the timing belt Lada Vesta is a rather painstaking task and will take a lot of time for a person who is not a master auto mechanic. Many people may even have a question: a chain or a belt? We do not exclude that a more durable device that does not tend to bend will soon replace the constantly breaking part of the Lada Vesta.

Page 1 of 2

We prepare the car for work.

We install the car on a lift or on a viewing pit.

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

We stop the flywheel from turning.

With a 17 head, unscrew bolt 1, Figure 1, damper mounts, remove washer 2 and crankshaft damper 3.

We wrap the damper mounting bolt in place.

Remove the flywheel locking device (if applicable).

We install the traverse 1, Figure 2, on the car to hang the engine, put the hook 2 of the traverse into the eyelet 3 of the right eyelet, and hang the power unit on the right side.

Using the TorxE12 head, we unscrew and remove two bolts 1, Figure 3, fastening the power unit to the right support 2 of the engine mount.

We mark with a marker the position of the right support.

With the same head, we unscrew the two bolts 3 securing the right support of the suspension of the power unit to the body and remove the right support.

Using a 5 hexagon, unscrew the five bolts with washers, and remove the upper protective cover 1, Figure 4.

We unscrew the three bolts with the same wrench and remove the lower protective timing cover.

With a 17 key, turn the crankshaft by the damper mounting bolt until the mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley matches the mark on the oil pump housing.

In this case, the marks of the camshaft pulleys must coincide with the marks on the rear protective cover.

We loosen the bolt 1, Figure 5, fastenings of the automatic tensioner 2, unscrewing it by 2 - 3 turns, and remove the distance washer and the timing belt 3 from the crankshaft pulley (use a 17 spanner wrench and a flat screwdriver).

Continuation of the article on page 2 ..