How to set the ignition on Chery Tiggo. Fast and high-quality replacement of Chery timing belt

You need Cherie Tigo 1.8 with your own hands, a set of keys in which there are keys for "16" and "18", and hexagons, as well as two accessories, a plate and a pin, of course, you also need the belt itself (original 481H1007073BA) with rollers (tension 473H1007060AB and bypass 481H1007070).

Everything, you can start, the first thing we do is raise our car, put it on a support (turn on the 5th gear and raise the handbrake). The right front wheel must be removed. The engine also needs to be jacked up to raise it.

The expansion tank is removed, the tube is pulled out of it, after which we remove it from the mount.

The engine support is dismantled by unscrewing 2 nuts and 4 bolts. Remove the liner and plastic engine protection.

Now, using a 16 key, remove the roller, and then remove the tensioning mechanism. Below it is the casing fastening bolt. At the same time, you can check the play and the integrity of the bearings.

It is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley, when you will remove the crankshaft, do not unscrew the central bolt, but the bypass roller must be removed. Next, we begin to disassemble the 2nd part of the engine mount, for this you will need to unscrew 3 bolts. The upper and lower covers must be removed.

Now the explosive wires are turned off and the candles are turned out, the knock sensor is turned off, the crankcase exhaust pipe is removed, and the valve cover must still be dismantled.

Do not forget to put the crankshaft at a service point. Your task is this, you need to horizontally align the marks on the timing shafts so that the gear pulleys move to the point at which the small marks coincide.

There is another way of adjustment, the position of the crankshaft can be adjusted using four identical rods, for this they need to be lowered into the candle wells. Once the crankshaft is in the correct position, the rods will be flat.

Further, using a plate (CH-20010), the shafts are fixed in a horizontal position. Now, on the tension roller, the fastening bolt is loosened, then, using the hexagon, we turn the inner part until the belt is loose. Everything, the timing can be removed.

The upper shafts are now secured with the locking plate, and the belt itself is tightened. Now you will need to loosen the two upper toothed pulley bolts. To prevent the lock plate from bending, hold the lower crankshaft with a wrench. Now we are looking for a plug-bolt in the front of the engine, it is located to the right and just above the area with the number, it must be unscrewed. Turning the lower crankshaft with a key, you will need to insert a fixing bolt (CH-20003), but you can also use a pin, work with the pin carefully, because if the crankshaft is in the wrong position, the pin may fall through.

In the event that the pin is installed correctly, it will rest, and about 2-3 cm of excess will remain outside, the crankshaft will stall. We look at the position of the pistons, they should be aligned, the plate is not deformed and is in place. That's it, you can tighten the bolts and draw a new mark. We take out all the adaptations, and collect everything in the reverse order. To calm yourself, turn the wheel, and make sure that there are no stoppers and the pistons do not rest on the valves. The belt that I changed according to the instructions was as good as new, and it seems to me that it would have passed before 80 - 90 thousand.

The gas distribution mechanism (timing) in any car is aimed at improving the performance of the engine and increasing its power. This ensures a more comfortable vehicle operation.

Through the timing belt in the Cherie Tiggo, as in any car, the water pump is also driven. She, in turn, supplies antifreeze or antifreeze to the cooling system. That is why it is very important to monitor the condition of the timing belt, as well as to replace it in a timely manner in the event of a malfunction.

More information about what timing belts exist on Cherie Tiggo, analogues of this part, as well as how it is replaced, will be described in this article.

Where is the timing belt?

In all modern car models, the gas distribution mechanism is located in the front of the engine compartment. More precisely, it is located between the engine block and the radiator.

A serviceable timing belt drives two shafts at once - a crankshaft and a camshaft. This allows an increase in rpm to be achieved, which leads to an increase in engine power. Getting to the belt is easy enough, especially if the vehicle is owned by an experienced driver. Therefore, no problems should arise in the event of problems with the timing belt with its repair.

Price, article and analogues

As for the cost, on average, a timing belt on a Cherie Tiggo can cost 1000-2000 rubles. However, it should be borne in mind that in the event of a serious breakdown, you will have to buy additional components for the structure, as a result of which the price increases significantly. Every detail in the car has its own article. Thus, the SKU of the original timing belt for Cherie Tiggo is 481H1007073BA01.

If we talk about analogues of timing belts and kits, then the table below shows the most popular options.

Timing kit	vendor code	Price in rubles
Torque	KR5147	2300
Dayco	94327	3400
SNR	GT37315	3700
Gates	SMD336149	3800
INA	531077610	4000
Ruville	57315	4200

Replacing the timing belt

Replacing the timing belt with Cherie Tiggo is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. However, the work can be done by learning what the element is and where it is. Also, those who have long been accustomed to servicing the car with their own hands will easily replace the belt.

Replacement materials

Before proceeding with replacing the timing belt, it is necessary to prepare all the materials required for work. The main ones include:

new belt;
bypass rollers;
air conditioner hinged belt;
a set of tools, which includes screwdrivers and wrenches for different diameters.

After that, you can execute timing belt replacement.

Preparatory work

First, the owner of the car must prepare it so that it can be replaced without any problems. To do this, you need:

Remove the right wheel. You can use a jack to do this. You will also need to install wheel supports just in case.

Remove all existing plastic guards and wheel arch liners.
Dismantle the power steering reservoir.
Disconnect the wire that enables the crankshaft sensor to function.
Dismantle the coolant reservoir.

Raise engine with a jack.

Finally, the last step is to remove the top cover of the belt structure. After that, the main work begins.

Direct replacement of the timing belt

First of all, to carry out the replacement, you will need to loosen the belt tension bolt. It is worth noting that in most cases the problem does not arise in the belt itself, but in the rollers, which are responsible for its tension. Therefore, you should not be surprised if you need to replace these particular parts.

Also, the car owner will need to disconnect the terminals from the battery. This is necessary to organize the safety of work, otherwise there is a high probability that a person will be electrocuted.

After the belt is loosened, you can proceed with the following actions:

Remove the pump and crankshaft pulleys.

Unscrew the lower belt cover and remove the crankshaft sensor.
Install all necessary marks so that part replacement can be made without hindrance.

It is worth noting that finding labels is not at all difficult. So, for example, there is a special slot on the pulley, which should be connected to a mark located on the engine block.

When the marks are installed, you can unscrew the bolt that is located behind the exhaust manifold. Instead, it is necessary to install a long M6 for fixing.
Using a 14 mm socket, loosen the timing belt tension and pull out the faulty belt.

Install a new one in its place, and also change the belt tension roller.

After that, you will need to tighten the belt and perform all the above steps in reverse order. You should also pay special attention to the labels, otherwise you will have to repeat the procedure again if you install them incorrectly.

After replacing, you will need to start the engine again and check its performance. If the problem was in the timing belt, then all previously detected faults or malfunctions will disappear and the car will work. If the problem persists, you should turn to professionals for help, since the timing belt was not to blame for the malfunction.

Many experts recommend changing the tensioning mechanism along with the timing belt. However, as practice shows, such a mechanism lasts longer than the belt. Therefore, you should not worry about replacing it even after detecting wear and tear of the timing belt. The only thing worth paying attention to when replacing a part is the condition of the balancer shaft roller. So, for example, if malfunctions were noted, it is better to replace it.

In the end, it should be said that in order to avoid regular breaks or premature wear of the timing belt (less than 60-70 thousand km), it is recommended to regularly conduct a technical inspection of the car.

In order to start work on replacing the timing belt Chery Tiggo 1.8 with your own hands, you need to prepare a set of keys in which there are keys for "16" and "18", and hexagons, as well as prepare two devices - this is a plate and a pin. Well, of course, buy in advance the belt itself (original 481H1007073BA) with rollers (tensioner 473H1007060AB and bypass 481H1007070).

Now you can get to work, first we raise our car and put it on a support (turn on the 5th gear and raise the handbrake). Remove the right front wheel and lift the engine to raise it.

Now you need to remove the expansion tank, for this we take out the tube and remove the tank from the mount.

The engine support is dismantled by unscrewing 2 nuts and 4 bolts. Remove the liner and plastic engine protection.

Next, you need to remove the crankshaft pulley (when you remove the crankshaft, do not unscrew the central bolt, but the bypass roller must be removed). Next, we begin to disassemble the 2nd part of the engine mount, for this you will need to unscrew 3 bolts. We also remove the upper and lower covers.

Now the explosive wires are turned off and the candles are turned out, the knock sensor is turned off, the crankcase exhaust pipe is removed, and the valve cover must still be dismantled.

The belt must be worn so that the lower crankshaft does not move. The belt must be tight, otherwise it will sag between the large upper pulleys all the way to the bottom. The tension of the belt is set by rotating the inner part of the tension roller until it rotates until the slots are aligned with the arrow, then we fix it. Now we check the correctness of the timing. It stands correctly if: the marks on the upper pulleys match, the lower crankshaft at the service point. The upper shafts are now secured with the locking plate, and the belt itself is tightened. Now you will need to loosen the two upper toothed pulley bolts. To prevent the lock plate from bending, hold the lower crankshaft with a wrench. Now we are looking for a plug-bolt in the front of the engine, it is located to the right and just above the area with the number, it must be unscrewed. Turning the lower crankshaft with a key, you will need to insert a fixing bolt (CH-20003), but you can also use a pin, work with the pin carefully, because if the crankshaft is in the wrong position, the pin may fall through.

In the event that the pin is installed correctly, it will rest, and about 2-3 cm of excess will remain outside, the crankshaft will stall. We look at the position of the pistons, they should be aligned, the plate is not deformed and is in place. That's it, you can tighten the bolts and draw a new mark. We take out all the devices, and assemble everything in the reverse order. To calm yourself, turn the wheel, and make sure that there are no stoppers and the pistons do not rest on the valves.

Replacement tools

A set of keys, including keys for 16 and 18
Allen key set
Special devices - a pin and a plate for fixing the camshafts.
Well, of course, you need to get a new belt. In the process, it may turn out that the timing rollers also need to be replaced, but this is not necessary. It happens that the rollers in the car are absolutely silent and work perfectly, and only the belt is worn out.

Preparatory stage

Before replacing the timing belt, the car must be lifted with a jack. It is necessary to remove the front wheel from the passenger side, as well as the expansion tank, after removing the tube from it and freeing it from its fastening. Remember to put the car on the handbrake and put in fifth gear before lifting.

Replacing the timing belt

In order to change the belt, you need to get to it. This requires:

Remove the engine support by disconnecting it by unscrewing 4 bolts and 2 nuts that secure the pillow.
After that, remove the plastic protection of the motor as well as the fender liner from the desired side.
Now we need a key for 16. They shoot the video.
The belt tensioner mechanism must also be dismantled.
Under it we find the bolt that holds the plastic timing case and unscrew it, removing the protection.
This will be followed by the removal of the crankshaft. The crankshaft pulley must be removed, as well as the bypass roller, but it is better not to unscrew the central bolt that is on it. We also remove the lower and upper covers by unscrewing the three bolts that hold it.
We disconnect the high voltage wires and the knock sensor, unscrew the candles. An obstacle to removing the valve cover will be the crankcase exhaust hose; it must also be disconnected from the engine. Having released the valve cover, we remove it too.
On the camshafts, it is imperative to set marks that must match when the shafts rotate. The teeth on the pulleys should move until the small marks match.
There is an alternative way to adjust the crankshaft position. To do this, you need to use four metal rods that are installed in candle wells. With the correct position of the motor shaft, these rods will become strictly straight.
Now we need a plate that fixes the camshafts in a horizontal position.
After the shafts are securely fixed, loosen the tension roller.
Using a hex wrench, slowly unscrew the roller mounting bolt on the bracket. We turn its inner part until the timing belt looses.
And only now it can be removed from the car.
Put on a new belt very carefully, carefully making sure that the crankshaft is in the same position. In order to properly tension the belt and avoid sagging, you need to adjust the degree of tension by rotating the inside of the tension roller.
We rotate the roller until the arrow and the slots coincide. After that we fix the video.
We check the correctness of the installation of the gas distribution mechanism as follows: the marks on the camshaft pulleys must coincide with the crankshaft. The bolts on the upper shaft pulleys must be loosened.
To prevent the fixing plate from bending, it is better to hold the crankshaft with a key. Unscrew the plug, which is located in front of the motor, and slowly turn the crankshaft with a key.
Now we need a pin. With its help, you need to lock the lower shaft. With the correct position, the pin will rest, and only its tip will look out. The shaft will stop in this way.
The belt must be worn so that the lower crankshaft does not move. It must be taut or it will sag between the large upper pulleys to the bottom.
The belt tension is set by rotating the inside of the tension roller. It rotates until the slots align with the arrow. Then it is necessary to fix the position.
Now you need to check that the timing belt is installed correctly. It is correct if: the marks on the upper pulleys match, the lower crankshaft at the service point. If one of the items is missing, it is imperative to repeat the procedure.
The upper shafts are now secured with the locking plate, and the belt itself is tightened.
Next, you need to loosen the two bolts securing the toothed upper pulleys. Hold the lower crankshaft with a wrench so that the lock plate does not bend. Now we are looking for a plug-bolt in the front of the engine, it is located to the right and just above the area with the number, it must be unscrewed.
Turning the lower crankshaft with a key, you will need to insert a fixing bolt, but you can also use a pin (work with the pin carefully, since if the crankshaft is in the wrong position, the pin may fall through).
In the event that the pin is installed correctly, it will rest, and about 2-3 cm of excess will remain outside, the crankshaft will stall. We look at the position of the pistons, they must be aligned, the plate is not deformed and stand still. If everything is correct, then you can tighten the bolts and draw a new mark. We take out all the tools used and assemble everything in the reverse order. To calm yourself, turn the wheel, and make sure that there are no stoppers, and the pistons do not rest on the valves.

In Chery Tigo 1.6, the timing belt is driven by a belt. The synchronous operation of both the entire unit and the camshafts and crankshafts depends on it. The manufacturer says that the belt will have to be changed after 100,000 km. It is possible that this is indeed the case, but it is still necessary to carry out diagnostic procedures from time to time in relation to the belt drive.

Signs of wear and when to change the belt

The fact is that the belt may become unusable even earlier than the period specified by the manufacturer, and the following reasons may contribute to this:

too aggressive driving style of the driver;
bad roads;
local weather conditions;
contact with the surface of oil or coolant;
failure of the pump;
malfunction of the rollers.

If you find that there are traces of oil on the belt, this means that you need to change not only it, but also the oil seals. Further leakage to an already new belt will cause its premature failure, because oil has a detrimental effect on rubber. The presence of backlash or other defects on the rollers indicates that it is also better to replace them, because very soon they will become unusable anyway, but then the mechanism will have to be disassembled only because of them.

But what external signs indicate that this consumable must be replaced immediately:

the surface is covered with cracks;
swelling appeared;
the ends are disheveled.

It was not by chance that it was said about immediate replacement in case of detection of such defects. If the belt is not replaced, when defects appear on it, then in the future it may break off, and this is already very unpleasant, since it will require major repairs. Judge for yourself: an interruption in the transmission will cause the pistons to collide with the valves. This will deform the latter. So it turns out that if you are too lazy to change a defective consumable, you will have to spend money and time on major repairs of the car, which could well have been avoided.

Of course, you can entrust repairs to specialists, but this article is written for those who are used to doing everything with their own hands. The cost of a new consumable reaches 5,000 rubles. If you add the cost of repairs to this, you get a rather large amount, if you also keep in mind that in addition to the belt itself, some more parts will have to be changed - rollers, oil seals, and possibly something else.

When buying a new consumable, you should not save money, since a poor-quality belt will very quickly become unusable, and you will have to change it again. Therefore, do not buy consumables from hand, but rather save on repairs - make it yourself. In addition to saving money, you will also receive invaluable repair experience, which will definitely come in handy in the future.

If you decide that you will do the repair yourself, then prepare a set of keys, a jack, fix the car on a level surface and start.

Replacing the belt drive

First, remove the right wheel, raise the engine and jack it up. Now we need to dismantle the expansion barrel. To do this, you will have to remove the tube and remove the barrel from its fasteners.

We remove the engine support. This will require loosening four bolts. It is also necessary to dismantle the fender liner and plastic motor protection.

Now we need a 16 key. With it we will remove the roller together with the tensioning mechanism. Under it is a hidden housing bolt. Now we can easily unscrew it. We check the play on the rollers and the condition of the bearings. If it is unsatisfactory, the bearings should be replaced without hesitation.

Now you can start dismantling the crankshaft pulley. When removing the crankshaft, its central bolt does not need to be unscrewed, but the bypass horn must be dismantled. The rest of the mount is now removed. To do this, you need to unscrew 3 bolts. We also dismantle both cases - the lower and upper ones. After that, the valve cover is removed, the candles are unscrewed and the gas outlet pipe is removed.

The crankshaft must be at dead center. It is necessary to move the toothed pulleys until the marks are completely aligned.

There is another way you can adjust the crankshaft to get it in the right position. We take 4 rods and lower them into the seats for the candles. They will be positioned exactly when the crankshaft is in the correct position. We fix the shafts with a special metal plate. We loosen the tension roller and turn it until the belt looses. We use a hexagon for turning. The belt can now be easily removed.

Now we are starting to install a new consumable. During this, take care not to misalign the crankshaft. We rotate the tension roller in order to tighten the belt. The tension should be optimal: the belt should not sag, it should not be overtightened, and the slots should align with the arrow. The marks on the upper pulleys should line up. If this does not happen, then the node is assembled incorrectly. In this case, the lower crankshaft must be at dead center. Now we loosen the bolts of the toothed pulleys. In this case, the lower crankshaft must be fixed with a key. This is done so that the fixing plate does not bend.

We unscrew the bolt plug on the engine. It is located on its front. We turn the lower crankshaft and fix it with a pin. Checking the pistons. They should be level. After that, all bolts are tightened and all components are assembled in the reverse order of disassembly.