Hardly anyone will deny the fact that a radio-controlled car is the most interesting and appropriate gift for a child and many adult men. But it often happens that even expensive models are unreliable and show low speed. And even so, there is a solution. In this article, we'll look at ways to make an RC car to fully enjoy driving a racing car along the path you planned.

How to assemble a radio-controlled car?

So, for self-assembly of a radio-controlled car, you will need the following items:

• model of absolutely any car, you can use the simplest one, any production - from Chinese to domestic, from American to European;
• VAZ solenoids for opening doors, a 12 Volt battery;
• radio control equipment - AGC, but do not confuse it with Automatic Gain Control, because the abbreviation is exactly the same;
• batteries together with chargers;
• radiator;
• electrical measuring units;
• a soldering iron together with solder, as well as a locksmith's tool;
• a piece of rubber that is needed to reinforce the bumper.

An example of assembling a radio-controlled car

Well, now let's go directly to the diagram, in other words, to the process of creating a high-quality model of the RU-machine:

1. At the very beginning, assemble the suspension - that's why we needed the base model, as well as a 12V battery.
2. After that, take VAZ solenoids, plastic gears and assemble the gearbox.
3. Cut the threads on the body and studs so that you can hang the solenoids and gears.
4. Now connect the gearbox to the power supply, be sure to check. If everything is in order with its functionality, install the gearbox itself directly into the machine.
5. Install a heatsink to protect the circuit from overheating. The radiator plate, by the way, can be securely fastened with bolts.
6. After you install the heatsink, install the radio control and power driver ICs.
7. After installing the ICs, completely re-assemble your car body.

Now you can safely proceed to test drives of the car.

So, you have a radio-controlled car in your arsenal. What needs to be done to make it more reliable and maneuverable?

Do not overload the model with unnecessary systems and details. All sound signals, headlights of high and low beam, opening doors - all this, of course, looks quite beautiful, believable. Building a radio-controlled car is already a complicated process. You should not complicate it even more, because this can have a very negative effect on the basic running characteristics of your model.

The most important thing to focus on is to make a high-quality suspension, to ensure excellent signal transmission. Well, to improve maneuverability, optimize speed indicators, fine-tuning the system during test drives will help you.

Important! Even the most interesting radio-controlled car cannot be the only hobby of a child for a long time. So that he does not get bored and learn everything new with interest, and you waste your nerves less, correcting the consequences of the leprosy of a little crumbs, use a selection of our interesting ideas:

Video

Now you can make a radio-controlled car and enjoy the toy for as long as you have the excitement, because it is so exciting.

1. Introduction
2. Types of car models
3. Internal combustion engine versus Electro. Comparison.

5. Batteries
6. Fuel
7. Body models
8. List of necessary things

1. Introduction

So, you are interested in radio-controlled car models. Whether it's a model with an internal combustion engine (ICE) or a model with an electric motor, this article will help you determine what you prefer, understand some of the general principles of the model and radio control, and buy everything you need for further operation.

First, let's take a look at the different types of car models.

2. Types of car models

Radio controlled car models can be classified as follows:

• by scale (size): 1:12, 1:10, 1: 8
• by engine type: ICE (or nitro) (internal combustion engine) or Electric (electric motor)
• by chassis type: Road, Formula 1, Buggy, Truck, Monster trucks (or Monsters)

Let's look at everything in order:

Scale

The scale of the model is indicated as for example 1:10 (or 1/10). The most common scales are 1:10 and 1: 8. The 1:12 scale is getting pretty rare. The 1:18 scale is gaining popularity (very popular among conventional, bench car models), new models of both road cars and monsters appear in it.

There are also 1:24 and 1:28 scales in which the Japanese company Kyosho makes the Mini-Z series, but these scales are approximate, they are indicated as an average for the series.
And finally, at the other extreme - 1: 5 scale - these are huge cars (about a meter long) with gasoline engines.

ICE (left) and electric motor. The proportions are not met! Usually the electric motor is much smaller than the internal combustion engine.

engine's type

Engines on the models are as follows: Internal combustion engine (ICE, also the term Nitro is used) and Electric motors.
Internal combustion engines (in the picture on the left) run on a mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This fuel is sold in cans at model stores. It is better to use high quality branded fuel to keep the engine running well and lasting a long time. ICEs are divided into classes according to their working volume:

Grade 12 (2.11cc) - 1:10 scale road models
15th grade (2.5cc) - road models 1:10, buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
18th grade (3.0 cc) - buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
21st class (3.5cc) - road 1: 8, buggies and monsters 1: 8
25th class (4.1 cc) - buggies and monsters 1: 8

The name of the classes comes from the American classification of volume in cubic inches. So, for example, the 15th class means that the engine volume is 0.15 cubic meters. inch. When converted to cubic centimeters, it turns out: 0.15 * 2.543 = 2.458 cubic meters. cm, i.e. about 2.5.

The higher the class, the larger the engine displacement, the higher the power. For example: the power of the 15th class engines is about 0.6 hp. up to 1.2 HP Engines of the 25th class already develop 2.5 hp. and more.

Electric motors (pictured to the right) are usually powered by 7.2 V or higher batteries. Batteries are soldered from elements of 1.2 V. They also sell separate elements for soldering and ready-made batteries.
Electric motors are classified by the length of the wire wound inside (by the number of turns) - 10 turns, 11 turns, 16 turns, 24 turns, etc. The fewer the number of turns, the faster the engine.

Chassis type

The chassis is the foundation of the model. All important elements are attached to it - engine, electronics, etc. Different chassis types serve different purposes and are designed based on the application.

Formula 1- designed for the development of high speeds and racing on an absolutely flat surface. The drive is rear-wheel drive (2WD), although there are models with all-wheel drive (4WD).

Buggy- for off-road racing (sand, clay, gravel, mud), can jump from trampolines. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Tracks- similar in design to a buggy, but have a higher ground clearance and larger wheels. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Monsters- have huge wheels and are able to overcome any obstacles and ride on any surface. The long suspension travel allows you to jump from high jumps and do whatever you want. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Road models- are able to ride on a flat surface and have high speed and good handling. Drive - full (4WD), less often rear (2WD).

3. Internal combustion engine (internal combustion engine) versus Electro. Comparison

Before making a choice, you need to weigh the pros and cons of each type of engine. A correct understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of models with an electric motor and with an internal combustion engine will help to rationally spend money and avoid problems and disappointments. So:

ICE models

Many ICE models are faster than electric models and can exceed speeds of 70-80 km / h. Be that as it may, hitting a curb or wall at 70 km / h can completely destroy the model or cause costly repairs.

ICEs for car models are single-cylinder two-stroke engines, which means they need fuel (not gasoline, but special fuel). This means that you will have to regularly buy fuel for the model (the approximate price of 4 liters of good fuel is $ 45, however, the canister lasts quite a long time). The advantage of a model with an internal combustion engine is that you can drive it for as long as you like - the main thing is to fill the tank with fuel. As a rule, models with internal combustion engines are more expensive than models with an electric motor (due to the higher cost of the engine itself). Among the significant advantages of models with internal combustion engines is realistic sound.

Models with electric motor

The main disadvantage of electric models is that the battery runs out quickly. You are unlikely to be able to drive continuously for more than 15 minutes on a single charge. But apart from a short ride time and a slightly lower top speed, otherwise the electric models are better. The main advantage of models with an electric motor is their silence, environmental friendliness and much better acceleration compared to models with an internal combustion engine.

Be that as it may, you still have to buy some additional equipment for the model - batteries and a charger. Batteries cost from $ 15 and differ in capacity and current output. The better the batteries, the higher the price, and it increases non-linearly. The chargers work either from 12V (powered by a cigarette lighter or a conventional car battery), or 220V (mains). There are chargers that can work from 12 and from 220V.

4. Radio control (equipment)

No matter what type of chassis and what scale you choose, you need a radio control system for the model. Many companies make models of some of their models in the form of RTR (Ready To Run) - ready to use right out of the box - they are usually already assembled and include everything you need, including a remote control. However, some of the models are still sold as an assembly kit and control equipment will have to be purchased additionally. Let's take a look at the principle of model driving.

Radio control system for a car model with an electric motor:

3. If the driver turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to the Servo (also called Servo), forcing it to turn in the right direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model wheels to turn.

4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to the Regulator (Speed ​​Regulator).

5. The speed controller (also called the Stroke controller, Speed ​​controller) changes the speed of the electric motor and, consequently, the speed of the model (the engine is connected to the wheels by a system of belts and / or cardan shafts).

6. The battery is used to power the Motor, Servo 1, Receiver and ESC. If the model has an electronic speed controller, then the battery is connected to it, and the controller distributes power to the motor, receiver and servo.

Radio control system for a car model with an internal combustion engine:

1. When the rider pulls the trigger or turns the steering wheel on the Control Panel, a signal is sent to the Model Receiver.

2. The receiver receives the signal, processes it and sends the signal to the corresponding devices in the model.

3. If the rider turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to Servo 1, forcing it to turn in the desired direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model wheels to turn.

4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to Servo 2.

5. Servo 2 moves the carburetor choke, which changes the flow of the fuel / air mixture and therefore the engine RPM and model speed.

6. The battery is used to power the Receiver, Servo 1 and Servo 2.

The items shown above constitute a complete listing of the model's radio equipment. All of these elements are required to drive the model. ESCs are usually sold separately, while the remote control, receiver and servos are sold separately or all in one kit.

5. Batteries

If you decide to buy a model with an electric motor, you will need batteries. Car models usually use 7.2V batteries, which are soldered in 6 1.2V cells. At the moment, there are two types of batteries widely used - Nickel-cadmium (NiCd) and Nickel-metal hydride (NiMH). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, but NiMHs allow for a large battery capacity and have little or no memory effect.

How batteries differ.

Batteries are characterized by many parameters - internal resistance, average voltage, discharge current, etc. The exact values ​​of these parameters are given for expensive batteries for serious sports, for hobbies and amateur racing you can not focus on them and buy more affordable batteries. In this case, the most important parameters are the type of battery (NiCd or NiMH) and its capacity (measured in mAh, for example 2400 mAh), it is indicated on the batteries in large numbers. The higher the capacity, the longer you can ride the model. The price, however, also increases ...

How many batteries should I buy?

For a start, it would be good to buy 2-3 batteries, which will allow you to ride with replacement batteries for a long time. As for the capacity, it is better not to buy batteries with a capacity of less than 1500mAh, otherwise the driving time will be very short.

6. Fuel

Internal combustion engines for models cannot run on regular gasoline. They require a special fuel based on methanol and with the addition of varying amounts of nitromethane and oil. Nitromethane improves engine performance, and its content in car fuels is typically 16 to 25%. The oil in the fuel helps lubricate the engine and protect it from damage. Fuel cans usually indicate the nitromethane content and the type of model for which the fuel is applicable.

7. Body models

Bodies for car models are made of special plastic - polycarbonate (Lexan). The bodies are quite light and flexible so as not to break when struck. Models can be sold with or without a body. But you can always buy a body separately - fortunately, a great variety of bodies are available, copying a huge number of real cars.
Bodies are sold already painted or unpainted (transparent). The transparent body is painted from the inside with a special paint for polycarbonate, which can be found in any shop for modelers.

Bodies of different manufacturers may differ in the degree of detail and strength: some bodies are well-designed, accurately copy the original, but at the same time they are quite fragile. Other bodies contain less detail but are more resilient and impact resistant. If you are a beginner, then try to choose more flexible bodies, because accidents are inevitable in the beginning and happen more often than it seems at first glance.

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8. List of necessary things

And, finally, a complete list of what you should buy for the model for its full functioning, start and maintenance.

For model with electric motor:

• Chassis (with electric motor)
• Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 1 servo)
• Speed ​​controller (depends on the motor model, consult your dealer)
• Batteries (buy at least 2 batteries with a capacity of at least 1500mAh)
• Charger

For model with ICE:

• Chassis (with engine)
• Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 2 servos)
• Rechargeable batteries or batteries (for powering the receiver and servos, usually 4x AA)
• Body (if it was not included with the chassis)
• Body paint (it is better to buy 2 spray cans)
• Fuel
• A bottle for filling fuel into the model's tank
• Glow plug device (called glowstart in English)

My blog is searched for by the following phrases

Do it yourself - for many, this phrase is associated primarily with a jigsaw for metal, a soldering iron and other hand-made tools. It is really possible to make your own model from absolute scratch - grinding every detail yourself - but it is a rather complicated, time-consuming and very demanding process on your own skills. Therefore, now we will talk about a simpler and more accessible option: how to collect radio-controlled car at home.

How it works?

Modern radio-controlled models can be divided into two large groups:

• RTR. Fully ready-to-use typewriters,. That is, took the model out of the box, put the battery in - and off you go to the races;
• Kit. Delivery option for advanced users: instead of the assembled machine, a set of spare parts comes, to which you add your own - custom - spare parts, eventually assembling the model of your dreams yourself.

Note : the option in which you buy all spare parts separately is not much different from. You just do not use ready-made kits, but, nevertheless, you use factory spare parts.

Why do you even need a DIY RC model? Exactly the same as any custom: to stand out in the crowd, to make your car unique. Moreover, assembly from ready-made parts is less demanding on skill than “working with a file”.

What parts do you need?

As a rule, if you have chosen a Kit, then only the chassis and case are included in its package. Additionally, you will need ( we are considering an option with an electric machine):

• Engine;
• Radio equipment: control panel, receiver, telemetry;
• Wheels;
• Battery;
• Discs, inserts, etc.

Ultimately, it all depends on the specific kit for assembling a radio-controlled model of a car with your own hands: some, for example, do not have a body, and it is purchased separately.

Is it difficult to build a Kit?

It is at the stage of assembling Kit'a that difficulties usually arise: the parts are numbered, detailed instructions are included with them - do everything carefully, and there will be no problems. Difficulties most often arise when combining the chassis with the rest of the components, so we advise again: before buying an engine and other spare parts carefully study the selected Kit and its characteristics. An excellent choice would be to read thematic forums: surely someone has already worked with this Kit - and, most likely, this someone will willingly share their experience.

Plastic or aluminum?

The answer to this question largely depends on which brand we are talking about, but more on that below. If we compare "in a vacuum" - and good plastic with good aluminum - the picture looks like this:

• Plastic: lighter, better absorbing impact, regains its shape after collisions. But, at the same time, with too strong a blow, the plastic cracks and breaks, it will be almost impossible to repair it - a part for replacement. In addition, over time, the seats of the shafts and bearings loosen on plastic parts, which causes backlash - again you have to change the part;
• Aluminum... It is repairable and practically does not deform over time, but good aluminum costs more than good plastic. Bad aluminum is usually quite fragile and literally crumbles at a level of stress that high-quality plastic will not even notice. And it costs about the same.

Parts manufacturers

There are three most interesting brands:

• RPM. The best plastic on the market. Perfect quality, high strength, exceptional durability - what it takes to make an indestructible rc model with your own hands. The brand has only two drawbacks: the high price and the obvious imprisonment for American cars, like, most likely, RPM spare parts cannot be supplied to the "Chinese";
• Integy. Aluminum parts, good balance between price and quality. If you still prefer metal to plastic, you may well think about choosing this brand. Well, yes: aluminum looks great!
• Pro-Line... Another great - and quite versatile - brand. The best choice if you are going to work with non-American Kit. Among the advantages of the brand: 5 years on the market, a bunch of awards, a very wide range of products and an acceptable pricing policy.

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General conclusions on do-it-yourself typewriters

If you follow the instructions carefully and take your time, there is nothing prohibitively difficult in assembling an RC model yourself. The main thing is to use high-quality components from a well-known brand, they fall into place without any problems. Well, we recommend starting with Kit'a simpler, and then, having received the first experience, raise the custom bar.

Greetings!

There are a lot of various radio-controlled (RC) equipment in the world, from very simple children's cars on the control panel to huge aircraft models reaching the size of a car. In this article, I want to talk about a part of the RC world called car modeling, about what classes of models there are, what categories they are divided into, where to start, and so on.

Details under the cut. Beware, a lot of traffic.

Model types

Monsters (Monster Truck)

The most popular class of equipment for entertainment.
It is a model with high ground clearance, huge wheels, high center of gravity, and therefore very unstable.
Able to overcome any type of surface, ideal for jumping from trampolines, slides and just for fun in the country.

Buggy

As a rule, four-wheel drive. They are able to overcome any type of surface, while driving on densely packed soil will be the most optimal.
It is this class that is most widely represented in competitions.

Short Course

It is a pickup truck with a short wheelbase and rear wheel drive.
Has a great similarity (copy number) with real cars. Designed for the same surface as the buggy, that is, rolled soil.

Truggy

Something between a buggy and a monster.
It is characterized by the presence of large, widely spaced wheels and low ground clearance. Accordingly, in this class, you can perfectly overcome a variety of obstacles, jumps, uneven ground, while the handling is worse than that of a buggy, but better than that of a monster.
An excellent compromise option.

Crawler

It is characterized by huge ground clearance, the same huge suspension travel, and low speed.
Designed exclusively for accurate and leisurely overcoming obstacles.

Drift

Exceptionally road car.
Designed, as the name implies, for drifting on asphalt.

Rally (rally)

Along with crawlers, a rather rare class of cars.
As a rule, four-wheel drive vehicles. Differ in copy number. Designed for rolled soil.

Trophy

Differs in high copy quantity, full wire - often with continuous bridges, low speed, soft, tenacious tires.
Designed for unhurried overcoming of various obstacles in the form of puddles, mud, swamps.
On popular models, a huge amount of tuning is sold in the form of cans, wheels, bodies, and so on to create an exact copy of a real trophy of cars.

Scale models

Models vary in scale from micro (1:18) to huge 1: 5 or 1: 4 up to 1 meter long.
Models of scale from 1:18 to 1:12 are actually toys and do not participate in competitions, and they are not suitable as a gift for small children and are not intended for riding at home, as they are capable of speeds of 30-35 km / h.
The most interesting and popular scales are 1:10 and 1: 8. It is in these classes that the bulk of the competition and the greatest variety of models are held.
Models of scale 1:10 and 1: 8 can reach 50 cm in length and are not intended for riding in courtyards and crowded places, since they can reach very high speeds (up to 117 km / h HPI Vorza), and together with a mass ( about 4-6 kg) can cause serious injury.
The largest models of 1: 5 scale have, in the overwhelming majority, an internal combustion engine with a volume of 24-28 cm3 and in fact repeat the design of real cars.

Engines

At the moment, car engines have four types of engines:

• Electric brushed motor. Electric motors of a completely standard design with a coil, brushes. It is characterized by low power, often poor reliability and is generally not interesting. It is used on inexpensive small and micro scale models. For 1:18 scale models, it can reach speeds of 25 km / h.
• Electric brushless (valve) motor (BC). It appeared in RC relatively recently, significantly pushing aside traditional models with internal combustion engines, since it produces similar power and, unlike an internal combustion engine, is much easier to operate.
• Glow carburetor engine. Used in models from 1:12 to 1: 8 scale. Fueled with fuel containing from 16% to 30% nitromethane. A very moody engine that needs fine tuning of the carburetor. It is highly not recommended for beginners or those who do not like poking around with technology. The engine is small in volume (a few cubic centimeters), but at the same time it allows you to remove a few horsepower and reach 30,000 - 40,000 rpm.
• Gasoline internal combustion engines. Used in 1: 5 scale models. Fueled with AI 92-95 gasoline. Engines are much less capricious than low-volume glow motors

Prices

The prices for car models, in contrast to aircraft models, have their own clear limits. So the prices for Chinese models 1:18 with collector motors start at 3000 rubles (~ 80 usd). With a more powerful brushless motor, the price reaches 4500 rubles (~ 130usd). The price range for hobby models (not sports) of a more interesting scale (1:10, 1: 8) varies from 10,000 rubles to 25,000 (300 - 700 usd). The most expensive are models of a scale of 1: 5, prices can reach 40 - 70 thousand rubles (1200 - 2000 usd).

Configuration (delivery options)

There are two types of delivery of models:

• RTR - ready to run. Such a complete set means that the model is assembled and completely ready for races. But it should be borne in mind that batteries, charger and so on may not be included in the kit. Usually they are included in the kit only for very budget devices. Also, if you buy a model with an internal combustion engine, you will definitely need to purchase a glow plug, batteries, fuel, a thermometer, and so on.
• Kit. Such a complete set means that for the final assembly of the model, in addition to batteries, chargers, etc., you will need an engine, equipment (remote control with a receiver) wheels, an engine speed regulator, and so on. The whales are for athletes and not for beginners. Such kits are usually supplied in the maximum tuning and it is assumed that the athlete already has all the additional body kit.

Equipment (appa)

One of the most important parts of an RC hobby is hardware: remote control, receiver, telemetry. There are a large number of options on the market from very simple and budget options for 2-channel equipment for 15-20 bucks:

Up to a fancy 4-channel, with telemetry, a bunch of settings and other chips and a price of 600 usd:

The design of a car on the example of my traggie ICE

General picture from the official website:

The model is all-wheel drive. Three differentials. 4.6 cm3 engine, 2.9 hp Two cardan shafts diverging from the center differential to the front and rear. The center differential has two disc brakes. A glow-type engine, which means that to start the engine, the candle must be heated with a special glow, and then the candle spiral keeps the temperature itself.
Bottom deck:

The bottom deck is a 4.5 mm thick aluminum plate with holes for starting the motor using the starter table.
Front Suspension Design:

The design of the front suspension is in fact not much inferior to real cars in complexity and greatly surpasses them in terms of reliability, so falls from a height of 2 meters onto the ground with a dozen overturns, as a rule, pass for a car without any breakdowns.

Which model should I buy?

The question is complex, and as in the case of computers, you must first decide on the budget and tasks. So for example, if you just want to drive on the model, jump from trampolines and just get fun, then your choice is a monster - for example, HPI Savage. If you are interested in large scale 5 cars, you can look towards the HPI Baja 5T. On a number of forums there are special topics for beginners dedicated to the choice of technology - links at the bottom of the article.

Brands (manufacturers)

A large number of manufacturers are currently represented on the market. You can try to divide them into three categories:

• Purebred Chinese: Iron Track, Himoto, BSD Racing, VRX Racing, HSP. Favorably differ in price, while reliability and thoughtfulness of the design may suffer. You can buy it as the first model in order to understand whether you like it or not, gain experience in repair and operation.
• RTR models from US, UK and Japan manufacturers: HPI, KYOSHO, Team Associated, HOTBODIES, Traxxas, Maverick, Team Losi. On average, "hospitals" are more reliable and well thought-out than the Chinese at a slightly higher price. In the case of manufacturers from the middle group, each model should be considered separately, since each brand has both high-quality successful models and not high-quality ones.
• Whales from Xrax, KYOSHO, Durango, Team Associated. Uncompromising sportsmen's models in full tuning. A whale alone can cost more than the same model in the RTR version, and do not forget that you need to buy an app, an engine, wheels, a speed controller and so on for it. With an average cost of an RTR model of 20 thousand rubles (600 usd), a prepared version for a competition based on a whale can cost up to 60 - 70 thousand (2000 - 2300 usd).

Competitions

For fans of RC hobbies, competitions are held both at the regional level and at the all-Russian level. Competitions, as a rule, have strict regulations and are generally divided into the following classes:

• Buggy 1:10 4wd electro
• Buggy 1: 8 4wd electro
• Buggy 1:10 4wd nitro
• Buggy 1: 8 4wd nitro
• Hobby unlim 1: 8

It should be noted that the classes described are a certain convention and may vary from city to city, depending on the popularity of certain models.
If you decide that you want to participate in competitions, think carefully about whether you need it, because like any sport, RC racing requires a lot of time, money, knowledge and patience. As I mentioned above, preparing a new model from scratch for a whale-based competition can cost 60 - 70 thousand rubles. A used one can be found for 25-35 thousand.

Nitro or electro

Before the advent of BC systems, ICEs ruled in the world of car modeling, since collector motors have much less power. With the advent of brushless (valve) electric motors, the scales swung in the opposite direction, since electric motors, with a capacity comparable to that of an internal combustion engine, have a number of advantages, such as silence, reliability, no need to adjust, run in, no need to start, maintenance is much easier, and so on. At the same time, there is a drawback in the form of the need to charge the batteries and swelling the batteries at sub-zero temperatures.
From myself, I can notice that when I was choosing a serious model, the choice was made on the ICE version, which I later regretted more than once, since maintenance, tuning, etc. take a lot of time, but you can ride while there is fuel, and the frantic roar of the engine in a compartment with a cloud of smoke does not leave indifferent more than one passer-by.

How to start?

In order to understand whether you like it or not, he will decide on the model and, in general, I advise you to come and look at the competitions, pokatushki. The people are usually responsive and sociable, they will help and prompt, because they themselves once started that way. It is also worth asking questions on the RC hobby forums.
In St. Petersburg, you can come and talk to the race track called "Under the Bridge":