Because for anyone vehicle One of the most important systems affecting comfort and safety when driving is the suspension. Designing a multi-link suspension as the most optimal option, is important point for the automaker. People first started talking about it back in the middle of the last century, and today it has received well-deserved recognition and demand in most passenger cars, rear- and all-wheel drive, where it is most often installed on the rear axle.

The design and principle of operation of a multi-link suspension

Almost any multi-link suspension includes a number of required elements:

• levers - longitudinal and transverse;
• hub support;
• stretcher;
• shock absorbers and springs.

Instead of the last two elements, a pneumatic strut can be used. The main role in the multi-link rear suspension is played by the subframe, to which transversely located arms are attached, which in turn are connected to the hub support. This suspension option can consist of three or five levers.

The process of designing a multi-link suspension is very complex, and is carried out only with the help of computer modeling. Each lever in this system is responsible for a certain moment in the behavior of the wheel - a change in lateral movement or camber. As a rule, designers provide for the independent operation of each link in such a mechanism, and often the levers are given a strictly defined shape, which is necessary for engineers to create a body of the intended shape. You can learn about the evolution of the suspension and its main features by watching the video:

Advantages of a system with multiple levers

In many cars, especially those not related to premium segment, concepts such as comfort and good handling are often mutually exclusive. The creation of a multi-link independent suspension allowed designers to make almost any car comfortable for passengers, and at the same time easy to drive. Among the main advantages of the course multi-link suspension are the following:

• all wheels of one axle are completely independent of each other;
• the possibility of using aluminum parts in the design allows reducing the weight of the suspension itself;
• excellent grip on each wheel road surface, which is especially important when driving on a wet road or in icy conditions;
• maintaining optimal car controllability even at high speed, sharp maneuvering and high-speed passage sharp turns;
• thanks to powerful silent blocks, with the help of which the elements of the multi-link suspension are attached to the subframe, it was possible to achieve good insulation of the interior from noise;
• Possibility of use in vehicles equipped with front, rear or all-wheel drive.

The multi-link suspension has not only advantages, but also disadvantages. The main one is the complexity of the design. In addition, most automakers see the need to install non-separable levers, the cost of which is quite impressive. For a multi-link suspension, roads with high-quality surfaces are highly desirable, which in our country is the exception rather than the rule. from here - frequent need repairs that are difficult to carry out on your own, and turning to specialists is expensive.

Is it possible to maintain multi-link suspension on bad roads?

Despite enough expensive operation, car owners almost never doubt which is better - a beam or multi-link suspension. In terms of comfort and safety, these systems are simply incomparable. To maintain this type of suspension in optimal condition, constant monitoring and maintenance is required. Despite the complexity of the entire design, many care procedures can be performed independently. Especially if there is inspection hole or a lift.

When servicing a multi-link suspension, you must first of all follow the manufacturer’s recommendations set out in the manual. First of all, the shock absorbers are checked - the presence of cracks, dents or leaks indicates the need for replacement. After this, rods, balls, and silent blocks are subject to inspection. Attention is paid to the fastening elements, which are tightened if necessary, as well as to all rubber seals. Multi-link suspension rear axle Inexperienced drivers may be suspicious if there are extraneous noises when driving from behind.

Common cause this becomes the exhaust pipe. At self-check you should pay attention to it first of all - its fastening must be reliable, and if it is loose, it is enough to tighten it so that extraneous sound disappeared. Driving a car with damaged elements found in its multi-link suspension is quite dangerous. Thus, a slightly bent lever causes a wheel angle, which not only leads to rapid wear rubber, but also noticeably changes the car’s behavior on the road for the worse.

The concept of suspension came into use at the dawn of the automotive industry. But own developments at that time there was no such thing and cars received this unit by inheritance from horse-drawn carts. Such aspects as softness, comfort, and handling were not even mentioned.

At maximum speed the first cars at 6 km/h, these questions were not at all relevant. But over time, suspensions on longitudinal elliptical springs became unsuitable for use.

On high speeds The requirements for the chassis changed, so in the pre-war years a double-lever design was invented, which has been successfully used to this day.

Double wishbone suspension device

The double wishbone suspension can be called a prototype of other designs, since its modification led to a number of new solutions. The division of the upper lever into two separate ones brought to light. And replacing the upper arm with a telescopic strut is at the heart of the idea.

Double wishbone suspension, as the name implies, consists of two wishbones, upper and lower, which are installed one below the other.

Lower arm movably attached to the body. The method of fastening should be described in detail. The fact is that the load-bearing part of such a suspension is a beam or subframe. This decision was provoked huge loads on the body, which led to its destruction. The mobility of the lever is ensured by silent blocks.

Upper arm can be attached to the body or to the beam. This is not so important, because the entire load goes to the spring, and the upper arm acts as a support for the hub. WITH opposite sides are designed on levers ball joints for fastening the steering knuckle and ensuring its rotation relative to the vertical axis.

The main elastic element that absorbs all impacts when driving over uneven surfaces is spring. It is performed with different pitches of turns to avoid resonance.

This article was written while working on a car. Skoda Octavia, front-wheel drive. There may be some differences on other models, but they do not affect overall volume or repair method.

The rear multi-link independent suspension is designed to provide comfort and steering precision at any speed and on any surface. There are so many components in it that it is impossible to place even schematically in one picture.

And like any movable structure, it has its own resource.

Cars of this platform have been driving for a long time to collect statistics on the most frequently replaced components. These can easily include the so-called steering rods and silent blocks in the rear lower wishbones. But in fact, the silent blocks in the other levers are almost the same diameter. This means that their resources are approximately the same. But it is almost impossible to diagnose their condition visually. And it turns out that hands only reach them when it is impossible to touch the wheel alignment/camber on the stand adjusting bolts. By the way, there are 4 of them.

And if there is still a chance to move the lower ones or even cut them off with a grinder, then the upper ones are very difficult to reach

Therefore, in this article we will consider the bulkhead of all elements of the rear suspension, with the removal of the beam.

While everything is tightly screwed to the body, it makes sense to “touch” all the nuts and bolts that will then need to be unscrewed

-disconnect the handbrake cable from the calipers. To do this, the “whiskers” on the cable jacket must be compressed

We pull out the cable from the guides attached to the levers

Now you can unscrew the calipers themselves and hang them on the locker using wire hooks, for example

So as not to depressurize braking system you need to disconnect the tubes from the beam. To do this, remove the clamps

Now you can remove both the tube and the hose to the side through the slot

The tube going to the right caliper along the beam is snapped out of the clamps

Unscrews the body position sensor from the lever (for those versions that have it)

Let's start dismantling. We place a stop under the rear lever and create a stop. Unscrew the bolt securing the lever to steering knuckle

Lower the stand, lower the lever, remove the spring

Unscrew the lower shock absorber mounting bolt

On the left side, remove the rubber band securing the muffler

Disconnect the connectors from the ABS sensors

Installing a hydraulic strut under the beam

Unscrew the bolts securing the trailing arms

Unscrew the 4 bolts securing the beam to the body

The beam can be removed

Now let's start the analysis.

Unscrew the outer bolts of the upper arms

Let's move on to the internal ones.

And if unscrewing the nut is not very difficult, then the bolt itself most often turns out to be soured inside the bushing of the silent block. By the way: even in this position, it is almost impossible to determine the condition of the silent block itself

We take the grinder in our hands and cut off the bolt

We remove the lower bolts securing the steering rods to the steering knuckle

Let's try to unscrew it rear pillar stabilizer from the lever

Most likely it won't work.

Then we take the “grinder” in our hands again

We split the unscrewed parts so as not to get tangled during assembly.

Unscrew the bolts securing the trailing arms to the steering knuckles

Turn the beam over and unscrew the lower rear arms. And again, there is a possibility that the nuts will unscrew, but the bolts will not

We pick up (in unison!) the “grinder...

Unscrew the stabilizer mounting bolts

We unscrew the last levers, those same thruster rods.

Suspension disassembled

Here is a set of new spare parts, awaiting installation

do not rush to copy the numbers from the boxes. This article does not discuss manufacturers and repair methods (replacing silent blocks or the entire lever)

We install thruster rods first. Don't confuse left with right! (for some models from a certain year they may be symmetrical)

-before pressing in new silent blocks, it is necessary to clean the seat

The silent block itself must be correctly oriented relative to the lever. It has two protruding stripes

They need to be aligned with the protrusions of the lever

To avoid displacement, you can mark it with a marker

You also need to take into account that the silent block clip is narrower than the lever itself

And this is where a marker will help.

Pressing in

However, you can use a more accurate measuring tool

We install the levers into the beam, insert new bolts and new eccentric washers

We screw the stabilizer into place, already with new struts

Turn the beam over and grab the upper arms

Please note that the silent blocks are almost identical in appearance, differing only in the inner diameter.

We repress in the same way, only the head will need a different diameter

We screw the levers to the beam, also using new bolts and washers

Now let's take on the trailing arms. ELSA requires certain dimensions to be maintained during installation and pressing,

I do this: before unscrewing the central bolt, I measure the distance between the lever and the body

Then you can unscrew the central bolt

Before removing the old silent block, it is convenient to make a mark along which to orient the new silent block

By the way, the separation of this silent block can only be seen after dismantling

Already familiar extraction procedure

We clamp the lever in a vice, install the body, and tighten the central bolt. We set the required distance, pre-tighten it, then clamp the body itself in a vice, and perform the final tightening with a torque wrench.

There are silent blocks left in the steering knuckles themselves. To replace them using a press, you need to unscrew the caliper bracket, remove brake disk, wheel bearing, and unscrew the boot. But with a small number of mandrels and a long screw, everything can be done on site

I’ll share a little secret: the clip of these silent blocks is plastic, and to make removal easier, you can use an industrial hair dryer or even a compact gas burner. Jump out with a bang

The reverse process is much simpler

All silent blocks have been replaced, you can begin reassembly. There is no point in describing the entire procedure, but it is worth paying attention to a few points:

— there are several washers in the bolt-nut connection.

They are placed like this:

When screwing the trailing arm to the steering knuckle, do not tighten them immediately, as you must first insert the stabilizer link bolt.

And in general, you can’t tighten any of the fasteners to a certain point, just bait and tighten them.

To make it more convenient to insert the beam into place, you can cut off the heads of a couple of old bolts and use them as guides

This will make it easier to line up the holes.

Springs must be installed in a strictly defined position. This can be helped by a protrusion on a rubber sole, which must be inserted into the response hole of the lever.

A jack or hydraulic stand is placed under the lever.

Align the holes, insert the bolt, tighten the nut.

Jack up the lever until the weight rests on the spring

You can help determine this moment by looking at the stop; there should be a gap between it and the body

And it is at this moment that all bolts and nuts need to be tightened.

Insert brake pipe into the clamps

Place the connectors on the ABS sensors

After this, you can screw on the wheels and go straight to the wheel alignment stand.

For your own peace of mind, you can retighten all the bolts and nuts securing the arms when the car is on wheels.

Multilink or multi-link suspension is the most common way to equip a car's wheels without a rigid connection between them. This type suspension is installed on almost all cars and is superior in its characteristics to the conventional method of mounting the rear axle.

Multi-link suspension - what is it?

Modern cars differ from domestic ones and from their predecessors in a higher level of safety, stability and reliability. These criteria have been achieved through research and improvement various parts, components and mechanisms installed on modern cars. This also affected the multi-link suspension. Its changes and transformations made it possible to make the car more stable and obedient on the road.

is a complex of parts and assemblies that connect the car body with the wheels. It is designed to minimize dynamic loads, and also contributes to the uniform distribution of such loads on all supporting elements while the vehicle is moving. The multi-link suspension provides the desired smoothness while driving, gives excellent handling, and also helps reduce noise in the cabin.

This unit is a collection of parts that make it possible to make adjustments in different planes. High level controllability and smoothness are achieved using the following set of parts:

- longitudinal and transverse arms;

Stretcher;

Hub support;

Shock absorbers

And springs.

The subframe is the base, the supporting structure; transverse arms are attached to it, which in turn are connected to the wheel hub support. This design provides transverse position hubs. On the other hand, all the levers are securely attached to the side member or subframe. Today, cars are equipped with three or five-link suspension. The multi-link suspension can be installed on both the front and rear axles. If it is a front suspension, then the arms can be replaced with jet thrust. They are able to simultaneously perform the function of a stability stabilizer and a lever.

How does a multi-link rear suspension work?

At first glance it may seem that the mechanism is quite complex, but upon closer examination it turns out to be quite the opposite. Next we will talk about how the multi-link works rear suspension and much more.

As is known in the design this mechanism includes control arms, shock absorber, springs, wheel mounts, stabilizer bar and subframe. The levers are attached to the subframe and frame of the car. The transverse arms are fixed with the wheel hub and ensure its stable position in the transverse plane. The purpose of the upper link is to transmit lateral loads and reliable fastening subframe to the wheel. Front lower arm is responsible for the alignment of the vehicle's wheels. The rear lower arm takes on the load of the car body. The trailing arm locks the wheels in the direction of the longitudinal axis. Fastening to the body in in this case carried out using a support. The other edge of the lever is attached to the hub. This unit contains bearings, wheel mounts and other necessary details.As a rule, shock absorbers and springs are installed separately from each other. In order to reduce the angle of inclination of the car during cornering and turns, a stabilizer is used lateral stability. The stabilizer is secured using rubber supports; rods connect the rods and hub supports.

This suspension design is the result of many years of improvement and research. She allowed to escape emergency situations, breakdowns, keep the car upright when turning. It is a more bulky unit than previous modifications, and also costs more. However, this does not lose its popularity, partly due to the opportunities that the car owner receives.

Independent suspension - we put it in order with our own hands

Despite the apparent reliability and power, the independent suspension or its improved version, the multi-link design, is a mechanism that is susceptible to damage. This leads to the need for regular inspections and repairs.

Most problems with independent multi-link suspension can be corrected yourself. The main principle of successful repair is the failure to be noticed in time. The first signs of wear on the unit can be noticed after the car passes 40-80 thousand km. There may be a knocking or squeaking sound. The sounds intensify when crossing obstacles, potholes or speed bumps. The reasons may vary from the need to replace a small part that protects a particular joint with subsequent cleaning of this unit before carrying out complex repair. In this case, qualified assistance and specialized equipment may be needed. At the service station, specialists will carry out everything necessary procedures, including diagnostics and repair of the rear suspension.

Diagnostics of faults can be carried out in a garage. First of all, it is necessary to carry out visual inspection all parts. Front suspension:

- you need to remove the shock absorbers and inspect them for cracks, chips and other damage;

Then you need to carefully inspect the ball joints, silent blocks, lever and rod.

Particular attention in this area must be paid to rubber joints, seals and fasteners. If you notice damage or cracks, you need to replace it. this part to a new one. There is a rubber gasket on the bottom of the car, it should also be intact.

Was a fault found during diagnostics? Before you eliminate it, evaluate it technical capabilities. If you are not sure, it is best to contact specialists at a car service center. Then you can proceed to diagnosing the rear suspension. Here, too, the inspection begins with the shock absorbers. Next, you need to devote time to the rods and seals. While inspecting the rear suspension Special attention pay attention to inspection exhaust pipe. Sounds and squeaks may come from damage in it.

During the inspection process, it is necessary to tighten all threaded elements and lubricate all joints where necessary. If no damage is found, and the sounds continue to intensify while driving, you should contact a specialist. The thing is that inept or incorrect actions can lead to damage or destruction important element car transmission, and this can result in expensive repairs.

Diagnostics and repair of rear suspension

In order for every ride on an iron horse to give comfort and pleasure, it is necessary to regularly inspect and diagnose the chassis of the car. If you were unable to detect and eliminate the characteristic sounds on your own, you need to contact a car service center. Specialists will carry out all the necessary procedures, including:

- comprehensive diagnostics and repair of the rear suspension, comprehensive diagnostics of all suspension components;

Restoration and repair work;

Repair or complete replacement individual parts or suspension units;

Wheel alignment adjustment and front and rear suspension adjustment.

When carrying out all stages of work, car mechanics use special equipment that cannot be installed in a garage or replaced with anything. Professional diagnostics and repairing the rear suspension can be compared to treatment in an expensive clinic or surgery. Suspension and chassis Cars are not just a mechanism that provides movement and control of the movement process, but also ensures safety on the road. Therefore, a negligent attitude towards squeaks, knocks or unusual rolls of the car on the road can lead to disastrous consequences.

Greetings, car enthusiasts! How to make sure that the wheels of a car have independent movement from each other and do not have a rigid connection with each other? Answer: use independent suspension. There are several options to implement this scenario, but one of the most popular today is a multi-link rear suspension (Multilink). Surely you have heard about it, and, by the way, it is used with success on the front axle.

A hit among independent suspensions

Manufacturers and car owners fell in love with the “multi-link” for good reason. This miracle of engineering has truly unique characteristics - it has a very smooth ride, makes the car excellently controllable and even makes less noise than its counterparts.

The only serious drawback is the price, due to the complexity of manufacturing and configuration. Despite this, you can see it on both cars and trucks.

Compared to other types, the “multi-lever” is quite young. It is believed that it first appeared on sports car Porsche 928 in the late 70s of the last century. Other German companies quickly picked up the idea and began to improve the independent multi-link system.

So, for example, in 1982 Mercedes released a model whose rear suspension could steer in the direction of the turn. And Audi began installing it on the front axle of passenger cars.

The more leverage, the better...

What is so magical about the “multi-lever”? Essentially, it represents an evolution of the classic double wishbone suspension.

If in the latter each of the transverse arms is cut into two, then we get the most primitive multi-link, and in this case we already get an advantage - we can adjust the longitudinal and transverse position of the wheel independently of each other.

And if you add trailing arms to them, as they do now, you’ll get a fairy tale.

Let's take a closer look at the multi-link system. The main elements of the suspension are:

• stretcher;
• hub support;
• shock absorber;
• spring;
• wishbones;
• trailing arm;
• anti-roll bar.

The work of the suspension consists of the coordinated interaction of all these pieces of iron, and each plays a very important role.

The support for the entire structure is the subframe. Almost all the levers are attached to it through silent blocks (rubber-metal supports) at one end. At the other end they are secured to the hub support through similar silent blocks.

Transverse levers, of which there can be up to five pieces, ensure reliable fixation of the wheel in the transverse plane.

Name trailing arm(by the way, there is only one per wheel) also speaks for itself, but unlike the transverse ones, the end opposite to the hub support is attached to the car body.

In the "multi-lever" elastic elements(shock absorber struts and springs) are not combined into one structure and are located separately. Their task is to provide an adequate response to various loads.

As for the anti-roll bar, as in other types of suspensions, it prevents body roll when cornering and improves wheel traction with the road surface.

If you compare a multi-link suspension with others, then at first glance it seems like a jumble of various levers and pieces of hardware. So it is, the cumbersomeness of this system is obvious, which, of course, is reflected in its cost. Nevertheless, due to its exceptional properties (smooth suspension, handling), it is in great demand.

By the way, another important point, which is the “skeleton in the closet” of the multi-link design, is the poor tolerance of low-quality roads. Agree, in our realities this is quite relevant. Although, on the other hand, regular prevention and diagnostics of elements will give you many years of pleasure from driving a car under any operating conditions.

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