The engine oil must be changed on all vehicles, without exception, in accordance with the intervals specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Some car owners do it with their own hands, while others use the services of a service station. The first option is preferable because it makes it possible to significantly save money. However, before performing the appropriate procedure, it is necessary to decide on the answers to the following questions - when to change the engine oil, what filling volume to use, what oil to fill in the engine, how to replace the oil filter, whether it is necessary to flush the engine, and how to change the oil yourself. We will give detailed answers to all these questions, as well as provide you with the prices of the corresponding consumables and the final cost as of autumn 2017.

When to change engine oil

The presumptive answer to the question of when to change the engine oil is given by the manufacturer of your car in the manual for the car. On average, this gap for cars with a gasoline engine, is approximately 10 ... 15 thousand kilometers(although it sometimes comes up to 20-30 thousand). For most new cars, this procedure is performed at the first MOT, which coincides in mileage with the specified distance.

As for diesel engines, they are replaced more often. Approximately every 7 ... 8 thousand... This is due to the fact that diesel fuel (especially the one sold at gas stations in the post-Soviet space) does not differ in its quality, therefore, because of this, the engine and the oil in it deteriorate faster.

It is better to change the oil in the autumn, so that in winter, in low temperatures, the engine is as protected as possible.

Severe operating conditions significantly reduce engine life. The oil also loses its properties faster.

Severe operating conditions

What is the threat of oil change according to the regulations in harsh conditions

If the engine is operated under severe operating conditions, the oil in it wears out much faster. Accordingly, the situations described below should be avoided whenever possible. So, the harsh operating conditions of the machine mean:

1. Long driving at low speed in the hot season in city traffic, long downtime in traffic jams. At the same time, the engine cooling system often does not cope with its tasks, so the engine and oil in it overheat. The same reasoning is true for prolonged engine idling, especially during hot periods. Therefore, try not to leave the car running on XX for a long time in the summer.
2. Engine operation at maximum permissible loads in continuous operation(for example, transporting or towing heavy loads, driving in mountainous areas, and so on). At the same time, a similar picture is observed - the engine and oil are experiencing significant temperature loads.
3. Rare short trips, especially in low temperatures... The fact is that in such situations, the oil simply does not have time to warm up in order to fully fulfill its lubricating and protective functions. This leads to additional engine wear. In addition, if the car is left in the garage for a long time during the cold season, condensation will form on the surface of the engine parts. When it mixes with the combustion products of the fuel, it forms an acidic compound that negatively affects the engine from the inside.
4. Driving in dusty or very dirty air... This leads to the fact that the air filter is clogged, and less air passes through it than is necessary for the formation of a normal fuel mixture. Accordingly, it becomes enriched. And this is harmful to the engine, and, accordingly, the oil poured into it.
5. A similar situation occurs if clogged fuel filter... The only difference is that the fuel mixture will now be lean. But it is also bad for the engine.

Therefore, in order to extend the service life of the power unit, as well as the interval between oil changes, you should not operate the machine under the conditions described above, and even replace the fuel and air filters in time.

Refueling volumes

Many owners are interested in the question - how much oil is needed to replace the engine of his car. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give an unequivocal answer in this case, since each car model (and even each engine if the car is equipped with different motors) requires its own amount of lubrication.

Remember that you only need to measure the oil level when the engine is not running!

However, on average, the infographic looks like this:

1. Passenger cars with an engine capacity of 1.2 ... 1.8 liters... The volume of oil in this case will be from 3.5 to 4 liters... As mentioned above, you will find the exact data in the manual. If there is no reference literature, then experts recommend in this case to fill in about 3 liters, and then check the level with a dipstick. Top up some more if necessary. The main thing is that its level does not exceed the MAX mark on the dipstick.
2. As for cars with engine displacement from 2 to 2.4 liters, then the volume of the poured oil will be no more than 4.5 liters.
3. If you have a powerful car with a volume from 3 to 5 liters, then the amount of lubricant will be 5 ... 6.5 liters.

Remember to check the engine oil level regularly. This procedure should be performed once every one to two weeks, at least once a month. After all, if you miss the moment when the oil level drops critically, then you run the risk of facing expensive repairs caused by the critical level of lubrication.

What kind of oil to fill in the engine

The next important question regarding replacement is what kind of oil to pour into the engine. The answer to it also depends only on the manufacturer's recommendations, respectively, you will find the exact information in the manual. The first thing to be aware of is that there are three types of oil -, and. Each of the listed types has its own characteristics, which you can read about at the links provided.

Nowadays, mineral oils are rarely used by anyone. The most common are semi-synthetic and fully synthetic compounds. They provide the best engine protection, especially under severe operating conditions. There are several classifications of motor oils. However, the most common of them are two - viscosity (SAE) and API classification. Most often, the choice is based precisely on the viscosity, since this parameter is selected taking into account the climatic region of operation of the machine.

Let us briefly dwell on the interpretation of the designations of this standard. It looks like this - XW-Y, where X is the low temperature viscosity, and Y is the high temperature. Let us give the notation for the first indicator.

As for the high-temperature viscosity, the higher its value, the higher temperatures the composition can work. You can read more detailed information about this in an article on our website about the differences that are popular, as the most common in our country.

Remember that the choice of oil should always be based on the recommendations of the car manufacturer!

Also, when choosing, you need to consider API standard... Its designation begins with the letters S or C. The former are for gasoline engines, the latter for diesel engines. In addition, there are several more nuances:

1. EC abbreviation, which is located immediately after the API, stands for energy-saving oils.
2. Roman numerals after this abbreviation one speaks of the level of fuel economy.
3. One of these letters is followed by performance level, indicated by letters from A (lowest level) to N and further (the higher the alphabetical order of the second letter in the designation, the higher the oil class).
4. Universal oil has letters of both categories through an oblique line (for example: API SL / CF, nowadays there are more and more such oils).
5. API labeling for diesel engines, they are divided into two-stroke (number 2 at the end) and 4-stroke (number 4, respectively).

According to the API standard for gasoline engines (letter S), the following classes are currently relevant.

As for diesel engines (letter C), the current classes for them are:

A few words about ACEA standard... It indicates the performance properties, purpose and category of engine oil. ACEA classes are also divided into diesel and gasoline. The latest edition of the standard provides for the division of oils into 3 categories and 12 classes:

1. A / B - gasoline and diesel engines of cars, vans, minibuses (A1 / B1 ... 12, A3 / B3 ... 12, A3 / B4 ... 12, A5 / B5 ... 12).
2. C - gasoline and diesel engines with an exhaust gas catalyst (C1 ... 12, C2 ... 12, C3 ... 12, C4 ... 12).
3. E - diesel engines of trucks (E4 ... 12, E6 ... 12, E7 ... 12, E9 ... 12).

Also, motor oils are characterized by the so-called tolerances. It should be noted that the tolerances are indicated by car manufacturers, or rather engines for them, and not by oil manufacturers. The latter only adjust to the former. You will find exact information on the tolerances of the engine oil that can be used in the engine of your car in the service book or manual. As an example, we will give some of them with a brief transcript.

• VW 500.00 is the designation for multigrade engine oils with SAE viscosity 5W- * and 10W- *, used only in gasoline engines. This is one of the older VAG approvals. Such oil is permissible for use in engines of cars manufactured before August 1999. For cars of a newer model range, new tolerances have also been developed. Essentially the same as the ACEA A3-96.
• VW 501.01- also one of the "old" VAG approvals. Indicates engine oils suitable for VW gasoline and diesel engines (models manufactured no later than August 1999). Specification 501.01 is found on oils with viscosities 10w-40 and 15w-40. The tolerance is close to 500, but may be inferior in terms of fuel economy. Conforms to class ACEA A2 (accordingly, such oils can be used in machines for which ACEA A2 is prescribed). Please note that for turbodiesels, a 505.00 permit is also required.
• VW 502.00- oils exclusively for gasoline engines. First successor to VW 501.01 and VW 500.00 approvals. A noteworthy difference is that it is recommended for an engine operating in difficult conditions, with increased loads. However, it is not recommended for vehicles with irregular and extended drain intervals. ACEA A3 compliant.
• VW 503.00- the so-called "Longlife" oils for gasoline engines produced since May 1999. An increased drain interval is allowed - up to 30,000 km or two years of operation (however, it is worth making an allowance for domestic "peculiarities" of operation). Specification 503.00 can be found on the labels of oils with a viscosity of 0W-30 and 5W-30. The tolerance completely exceeds the 502.00 tolerance requirement and meets all ACEA A1 requirements. Please note that it is PROHIBITED to use such oils in earlier models, as low high-temperature viscosity can lead to engine damage and repair.
• VW 503.01- Longlife oils (mileage up to 30,000 km or two years of operation), specially developed for high-load engines Audi RS4, Audi TT, S3 and Audi A8 6.0 V12 (models with power over 180 BHP, power taking into account transmission losses), Passat W8 and Phaeton W12. Replaced today by VW 504.00 approval.
• VW 504.00- came to replace the tolerances VW 503.00 and VW 503.01. In addition to all of the above Longlife delights, 504.00 is suitable for engines that meet the Euro 4 emission standard (in fact, it covers all previous petrol tolerances and can be used in all types of petrol engines).
• VW 505.00- tolerance for diesel engine oils (5W-50, 10W-50/60, 15W-40/50, 20W-40/50, 5W-30/40 SAE, 10W-30/40). Applicable for light diesel cars (with and without turbocharging) - models not later than August 1999. Meets the requirements of ACEA B3.
• VW 505.01- special oils 5W-40 for engines with pump nozzles, V8 Common Rail systems of turbodiesel engines. The replacement interval is standard. Complies with class ACEA B4.
• VW 506.00- diesel Longlife oils 0W-30 - service interval up to 50,000 km or two years of operation (of course, within reasonable limits - see paragraph "VW 503.00"). Please note that it is not suitable for engines with unit injectors. Also remember that it is PROHIBITED to use such oils in earlier models, as low high-temperature viscosity can lead to engine damage and unplanned repairs.
• VW 506.01- Longlife oils (30 ... 50 thousand kilometers or two years of operation) for diesel engines with pump nozzles. Complies with ACEA B4.
• VW 507.00- Covers all previous diesel engine oil tolerances. It is a Longlife oil for almost all diesel engines, including Euro 4 engines with DPF. Please note that V10, R5 and truck and bus engines without DPF are an exception. For these engines, an oil conforming to VW 506.01 is used.
• VW 508.00- these are, most likely, low-ash oils with an extended drain interval with high energy-saving properties. To date, VW 508.00 approval is only in development.

Replacing the oil filter

Every car owner should know that when changing the oil, the oil filter is always changed... This requirement applies to both gasoline and diesel engines. Otherwise, all the dirt and carbon deposits in the filter will quickly contaminate the new oil, and in fact the replacement procedure will be nullified.

Special pullers are used to unscrew the filters.

Remember that the pullers mentioned are only used to unscrew the filters. It is necessary to twist them only by hand(This is especially true for cars with gasoline engines). Another important point concerns the difference between filters for gasoline and diesel engines. The fact is that diesel oil works in more severe conditions. Accordingly, the filter is heavily loaded. If you do not delve into the details, then in general terms we can say that a filter from a diesel engine can be installed on a gasoline one, but vice versa - it is impossible! In this case, of course, you need to take into account the filter model, their mounting dimensions, fastening, characteristics, and so on. You will find all this information in the manual. And it is best to use the theme filter recommended by the manufacturer your car.

A couple more tips regarding oil filter replacement:

1. When replacing, be sure to lubricate the O-ring with new oil. This will soften the rubber, reduce the pressure on it, and thus increase the life of the ring. And as mentioned above, it is necessary to tighten the filter only by hand, without using pullers!
2. Some auto mechanics recommend pouring some oil into the filter during the replacement process. There are many contradictions and opinions on this score. Omitting the details, let's just say that it is worth doing this if you change the oil in winter and / or the engine of your car is used in difficult (described above) conditions. Otherwise, this recommendation can be disregarded.

Flushing the engine

In some cases, car owners flush individual engine parts from oil carbon deposits on their surfaces. In particular, flushing is recommended in the following situations:

1. When changing from one brand of oil to another, and both depending on their types (mineral water, synthetics or semi-synthetics) and on their viscosity characteristics.
2. After buying a used car, because you do not know or are only aware from the seller's words about the brand of lubricant and the frequency of replacement. This means that you cannot be sure of the good condition of the car engine.
3. Under severe operating conditions in order to better wash away the remains of carbon deposits.
4. With a full engine bulkhead as a result of overhaul.

1. Manual cleaning on a disassembled engine.
2. Quite a popular method of pumping diesel fuel through the engine (this is how contract engines are cleaned).
3. Using flushing oil before refilling with new grease. It is a common mineral oil without additives and is often used when changing from one oil to another.
4. Five minute flush. A special agent is poured into the old oil before draining, after which it is "run" through the system for 5 minutes, then the slurry is drained. Remember this is the most aggressive flushing method!
5. Flushing with regular engine oil (cheapest). The idea is to let the engine run for about 500 km, drain it and fill it with the one that is planned to be used on an ongoing basis. Although this flushing is gentle and does not harm the motor, the technique itself is expensive and largely pointless.

It is also recommended to perform flushing in the case. if you have used old oil much longer than the expected service life (for example, you simply forgot about the regulations). Or in the case when the oil thickens strongly and turns into a jelly-like mass.

How to change the oil with your own hands

Usually car dealers always advise buyers that oil changes should be done at service centers. Otherwise, the company guarantee will be canceled. Therefore, in the case of an oil change on a new car, the decision on where is the best to perform this procedure lies entirely with the car owner. As for cars that have traveled over 30 thousand kilometers (after the second MOT), the driver can change the oil himself. This will save you money. And the procedure itself is not something complicated.

What you need before replacing

Immediately before replacing, you will need not only new oil, but some other tools as well. Also take care of where you will be performing the procedure. So, for replacement, you need the following tools and materials:

1. New oil... Use a lubricant recommended by the manufacturer. We also think it will be useful for you to watch the video related to the question for a car.
2. New oil filter... You will find its brand in the manual for your car. Using original filters or their analogs is the choice of the car owner, and depends largely on the brand of the car and the cost of the filters.
3. Oil filter remover... Its type depends not only on the design of your car's engine, but also on how often you plan to use it. For example, an inexpensive stripper is also suitable for a private trader. If you work at a service station, then it is better to purchase high-quality universal pullers.
4. New sealing washer / ring... They are replaced depending on how worn out the old consumables. However, it is best to replace them. If the drain plug is damaged, it must be replaced as well.
5. Wrenches for unscrewing the drain plug... Its size and shape depends on the make and model of the machine.
6. Container for old oil... In this capacity, any medium-sized vessel is suitable (it depends on the volume of the engine, but it is better to take it with a margin). Also, please note that in the future, the vessel cannot be used for clean liquids, especially food products!
7. Drain funnel(optional). If the container has a thin neck, then you will need a funnel.
8. Rags and gloves... They are necessary in order, firstly, not to get your hands dirty (including to prevent the appearance of an unpleasant skin odor as a result of the procedure), and secondly, to remove possible dirt and / or oil drops that have fallen on adjacent surfaces.

The work must be carried out in a specially prepared place. It can be a viewing hole, an overpass, a small mound or hummock. The main thing is that the car owner has access to the oil drain cock, which is usually located at the bottom of the engine, under the bottom of the car. You can also use a jack to raise the vehicle.

The replacement process on most modern cars is performed according to the same algorithm. The differences are only in the location of individual parts, for example, the oil drain cock.

Remember that the change must be carried out at a low oil temperature! Ideally, you need to start a cold engine and let it run for 5 ... 10 minutes, depending on the ambient temperature. This is done to make the oil less viscous.

The procedure consists of the following steps:

1. Prepare your place of work... That is, go to the inspection pit, overpass, raise the car on a jack.
2. Keep yourself and your car safe... That is, reliably immobilize it by placing the car on the handbrake and insuring the wheels with wheel chocks.
3. Find a drain hole... To do this, you need to inspect the underside of the car. It is usually located at the bottom of the engine. Also evaluate and choose the right set of keys for unscrewing the plug.
4. Using a rag clean the surface near the drain plug, as well as the oil filter.
5. Place dishes to drain to the right place.
6. Unscrew the drain plug and oil filter... This must be done carefully and slowly so that the oil does not start to flow out in a powerful jet.
7. Wait until the oil is completely drained, screw on the drain plug and install a new filter element (do not forget to lubricate the new sealing rubber if you need to fill the filter with oil).
8. Fill in new oil into the filler neck of the engine in the required amount.
9. Check the level on the dipstick... It should be about ⅔ closer to the maximum mark.
10. Remove oil drips on the working surfaces of parts, if any.

As you can see, the procedure is simple, and even a novice car owner can handle it. The main thing, Observe safety regulations when working!

Express oil change

There are two main ways to change engine oil:

• traditional (the drain plug is unscrewed);
• express replacement (carried out at the service using a special vacuum apparatus).

Most experienced car owners are accustomed to changing the engine oil using the traditional method, getting under the car and unscrewing the drain plug in the crankcase. However, the design of the engines of the new machines is also designed for express replacement. What is this procedure?

Its algorithm involves the use of a special vacuum apparatus, with the help of which the used oil is sucked out of the engine through the hole of the dipstick for checking its level. The main advantages of express replacement are high speed and efficiency of replacement, as well as convenience (the driver does not need to climb under the car).

In the same way as in the usual way, with an express replacement, the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature, and then the hose of the vacuum apparatus must be pushed into the hole of the oil dipstick as much as possible inward so that the end touches the bottom of the sump. The oil is then quickly pumped out. It begins to flow into the tank of the pumping unit due to the formation of reduced pressure (rarefaction).

Currently, many car owners are afraid of express replacements, because there is a myth that after the procedure is completed, a lot of old oil remains in the sump. However, it is not! As many tests have shown, even less of it remains there than after a traditional drain. The only drawback of a quick oil change is that the vacuum method does not completely get rid of metal dust and / or burnt residues that accumulate in the bottom of the sump during long-term operation. Therefore, express replacement is not recommended for systematic use or when flushing the engine. However, it saves a little time and money, because the cost of an express engine oil change is less. And besides, you do not have to change the drain bolt sealing washer, as it is recommended to do on some cars.

Engine Oil Change Cost

Many car owners are interested in the question - how much will it cost to change the oil in the service and do it yourself. In this section, we will try to answer it, and present for you the price of consumables and the work of service station employees as of autumn 2017.

Let's start with a simpler option - oil change in a car service... Let's clarify right away that the final value will depend on several factors - the model of the car, the brand and volume of oil used, the prices directly set by the owners of the service station. We give you the average prices for Moscow and the Moscow region.

Please note that some auto repair shops carry out an oil change free of charge, provided you purchase it locally.

Now let's consider a more complex option - DIY oil change... When calculating the final cost of the procedure, in this case, it is also necessary to take into account the model of the machine and the price of the oil used, but also add to them the cost of all used consumables. Here are the average prices for the fall of 2017:

Consumables and tools	Price, rubles
Motul Specific DEXOS2 5w30 Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Liter Canister Part Number - 102898	3700
SHELL Helix HX8 5W / 30, synthetic engine oil, part number 4 liter cans - 550040542	1500
Oil Lukoil Lux 5W40 SN / CF, synthetic engine oil, catalog number of the 4 liter canister - 207465	1300
MOBIL Ultra 10W-40, semi-synthetic oil, 4 liter canister number - 152197	950
ZIC A +, 5W30, semi-synthetic oil, 1 liter canister number - ZIC A 5W30	400
Castrol Magnatec SAE 10W 40, Semi Synthetic Oil, 4 Liter Canister Number - 156EB4	1200
Oil filter VAZ 2110-12, Granta, Kalina, 2108 JS Asakashi art. C0065, Car make: LADA, Manufacturer: JS Asakashi	160
Oil filter Ford Focus II, Bosch art. 0451103363. Car make: Ford, Manufacturer: Bosch	300
Oil filter RENAULT LOGAN / CLIO / MEGANE / LAGUNA, Car make: Renault, Manufacturer: Knecht	300
Oil filter Hyundai Accent, KIA Cee`d, Rio II Filtron, art. OE6742, Car make: Kia, Manufacturer: FILTRON	200
Oil filter / filter assy-oil NISSAN art. 1520865F0E, Car make: Nissan, Manufacturer: Nissan	350
Oil filter remover, crab type, has 3 pins.	600
Belt puller of the JTC 4736 oil filter. Type: belt; Gripping diameter: 60-260 mm.	1700
Oil filter remover belt grip - 55-100 mm AIRLINE art. ak-f-02	300
Oil filter remover FIT, chain. Article - 64791.	300

In one case or another, the car owner can use various consumables. This applies to both names and brands and models. Therefore, based on the information above, you can independently calculate the approximate cost of performing the procedure.

Outcomes

As you can see, changing the oil with your own hands is not a difficult task, and most, even inexperienced, car owners can handle it. However, it is necessary to take into account the nuances and follow the above algorithm of actions. And do not forget to choose those consumables (oil and filters) that are recommended by your car manufacturer.

Today we will change the oil in the car engine ourselves. We will not go into what it is for. And that's all there is to it. Every ten thousand kilometers it is necessary to change the oil in the engine. The question is: does it need to be changed in the service, if this procedure can be done easily in a garage or street environment? For myself, I answered this question unequivocally: I change the oil in the engine myself.

Reasons why I change the oil myself

• First reason: this is a significant saving of time, you have to get to the service there and back, there may be a queue, the car needs to be handed over, received, sometimes it is inconvenient to go to the service in a dirty car, so you must first go to the car wash, and this is additional costs and wasted time. Despite the fact that the professionals will probably do the work itself faster than me, according to my estimates, changing the oil in the service will take from one and a half to two hours. It took me forty minutes.
• The second reason: oil change cost - saving money. The cost of changing the oil in the service at the moment is 800 - 1000 rubles. You don't have to pay yourself, the total net benefit is 800 rubles, at least.

Step by step algorithm

And so let's start changing the engine oil. Since the last oil change, our car has driven ten thousand kilometers. At this point, you need to buy consumables: engine oil - an ordinary plastic canister with a capacity of four liters and the oil filter itself.

Stage one - preparatory

We drive the car out of the garage, warm up the engine, for this we let the car idle for ten minutes. This is necessary so that the oil heats up and easily flows out of the engine. Cold oil will be more viscous, it will flow slowly, and a lot of old oil will remain on the walls of the engine crankcase. While the car is warming up, we construct an overpass of two pieces of timber 150x150x400 and two planks 50x150x1200, as shown in the photo.

We drive slowly and carefully along the boards to the top of our overpass.

Stage two - draining the old used oil

While we were building the flyover, drove into it, the engine warmed up. We turn off the engine. To get started, you need to take a bucket for used oil, a set of keys, a new oil filter, a special one. I bought myself such a nozzle for.

If it is not there, then it doesn't matter. I used to twist and twist oil filters without it using adjustable pliers.
We climb under the car, twist the four bolts that secure the crankcase protection. Then carefully unscrew the oil drain bolt.

As soon as we unscrew this bolt, oil will flow from the engine, we keep a bucket at the ready for testing and put it under the stream of oil.

After that, we unscrew the old filter, for this we collect a special key.

When you unscrew the filter, a little oil will also pour out from there - be careful.

Stage three - filling of new oil

Now that we have disassembled everything, the oil has been drained, we need to restore the car's performance. To do this, we take a new oil filter, remove protective films, seals, etc. Lubricate the gasket at the place where the filter is attached with used oil.

I doubt the advisability of this procedure for lubricating the gasket with old oil, but all auto mechanics did this when I was still in my youth changing the oil in the service. I do it as well, just in case, it should be so. Next, screw the oil drain bolt back into place.

We screw on the new oil filter in its proper place.

Now we install the crankcase protection in place. After that, we finally get out from under the car. We remove everything from under the engine that could remain there: a bucket with working off, keys, an old filter, a rug, etc.
Finally, you can work to your full height: open the hood of the car, find the oil filler cap, unscrew it.

We cut out a special funnel from the old oil canister, which will help us carefully, without spilling oil past the oil filling hole, pour oil into the engine.

Now we take new oil, unscrew the lid, break the seals, and pour the required amount of oil into the engine. If your engine is less than 1.8 - 2.0 liters, then most likely there is no need to pour the entire canister into it. When pouring oil, it is necessary to check the oil level in the engine with a special dipstick. The oil should be poured just below the maximum level.

There is no need to pour more, it is not good for the engine.

Conclusion

Well, that's all. We twist the oil filler cap, close the hood, move out and overpasses, dismantle all temporary structures: the machine is ready for operation. Do I need flushing oil? If you do not change the brand of the filled oil, then it is not necessary. If changing, it is better to rinse with flushing oil. To do this, after draining the oil, without removing the old filter, you need to fill in flushing oil, let the engine idle with this oil for ten minutes, and drain it. Further, everything is as I described above.
There is also a bonus for zealous owners in the form of waste oil. I never throw it away or pour it out. Everything will come in handy on the farm. I use waste oil if I need to lubricate something somewhere - hinges, keys, bicycle chain, etc. Even with the help of working off, it is good to kindle a fire when in the spring I burn garbage on the site.

Replacing the working fluid in the engine is a very popular service at the service station. The frequency of such maintenance is 1 year or 15,000 km of run. However, the interval is shortened in case of excessive loads, harsh operating conditions.

You can change the oil in the service or on your own. It is enough to study the instructions on how to change the oil in the engine correctly, prepare the necessary materials and tools.

The preparatory process begins with studying the operating instructions for the machine. Attention is required by the manufacturer's recommendations on the frequency of maintenance, the type of working composition (its viscosity, volume, specification).

Other materials:

• New filter element, preferably of high quality;
• Oil is taken with a small margin, taking into account the volume of the power plant;
• Capacity for working off;
• Newspaper, rag, rags to remove traces of oil;
• Funnel for pouring a new composition;
• Combined and wrench to remove the oil filter;
• Flashlight - will provide better visibility;
• Rubber gloves for protection.

Before starting work, you need to know where the drain is located to remove the mining. It is worthwhile to first inspect the oil pan to find a suitable key, and the location of the oil filter is also determined.

Important:

Before starting work, the motor needs to be warmed up a little. It is enough to make a small circle or leave the engine running for a few minutes. So, the used composition is easier to remove. The car must be driven into a viewing hole, overpass, it must stand level on a solid surface. The jack is used only in conjunction with additional supports.

If you have a question about how to change the engine oil, it is worth noting that the instructions are quite simple and in most cases the same for different vehicles.

Main stages:

1. When the car is in a pit, overpass, it is left on the handbrake for models with manual transmissions and in parking mode for automatic transmissions.
2. Wearing protective gloves, you can lower yourself under the car and dismantle covers and hatches that restrict access. Keys, a container, and a newspaper underneath are immediately prepared.
3. The waste reservoir is installed under the oil pan. Using a wrench, first loosen the plug fastening slightly. It is necessary to monitor the gasket, it often sticks to the pallet, falls into old oil.
4. Further, the plug is removed manually, but it is held, since there is a considerable pressure of the lubricating fluid, which will begin to flow out quickly. Care is required here - the composition can be hot.
5. When the liquid is glass, experts assess its color, the presence of foreign particles, which makes it possible to determine the need to flush the unit. The composition is not completely removed, remaining in the most inaccessible areas, on working surfaces. But this is only 3% of the volume.
6. Then the plug is installed back, tightened tightly. The container is moved to the area where the filter is located.
7. The old element must be loosened using a key, and then removed by hand.
8. A new element is not installed immediately, preliminary lubrication of the gasket is required, which will ensure the absence of deformations, cracks, leaks. After fixing the structure, remove all oil smudges (water and soap are not used).
9. Further, the moment comes to fill in new oil through a special oil filler hole in the engine. Change the oil using a funnel so that the product does not splatter.
10. During pouring, there is no need to rush, constantly checking the level with a dipstick. Not enough is just as dangerous as overflowing.
11. After completing work, the engine compartment and all areas where work was carried out must be clean. Then the engine starts and runs for several minutes. Attention is drawn to the absence of leaks and other malfunctions. The turnover is not increased.
12. Having muffled the unit, check the level of the composition again, if necessary, topping it up to the desired mark.

The procedure is quite simple, with such instructions every motorist can change the lubricating fluid.

Sometimes the question arises - is it necessary to drain the oil when replacing it additionally, to flush the system? After removing the plug, all the oil drains, the remaining 3% is almost impossible to remove (except for overhaul, disassembly). Flushing is required when deposits are present, improper maintenance, or when changing fluid type.

Important:

After completing the procedure, you need to pour the mining into another closable container, and put the filter in a bag. By contacting the service station, you can hand them over for free. It is also recommended to remember, write down the date and mileage so that you know exactly when the next service is required.

Each owner, taking care of his car, can change the lubricant in the engine himself. When using the detailed instructions that the article contains, all the necessary manipulations will take no more than an hour. However, the question may arise - how much oil is poured into the system.

The information you need is easy to find by reading the instructions for the car. If there is no manual, you can contact the official representatives of the brand, clarifying the question, or contact the service station specialists who are engaged in servicing a particular brand of car. It is worth immediately studying the required characteristics of the product, since pouring an unsuitable composition is dangerous with the appearance of failures, unwanted breakdowns.

Attention:

The operating manual usually indicates the total volume of oil contained in the motor. This means that this amount of product was used in the first fill at the factory when there was no lubricant in the system before. With subsequent manipulations, the required volume is reduced.

If the manual indicates that the system contains 4 liters of oil, this is the full volume. It is impossible to fill in the same amount of grease when replacing, as an overflow will result.

What happens when overflowing:

1. The required fluid level is exceeded, due to which the crankshaft, during rotation, will be lowered by counterweights into the lubricant.
2. Paying attention to the speed of rotation, impacts, the composition will begin to foam, a gas-oil emulsion is formed, which does not have the necessary protective, lubricating properties.
3. As a result, the performance of the engine decreases, the candles become contaminated with oil, which also enters the air filter, carburetor, and cylinders. When the situation worsens, the lubricating fluid is supplied from below, the oil scraper rings stop working normally. There is a possibility of hitting the idle speed regulator. The worst option is to squeeze out the crankshaft oil seals.

Oil shortage problems:

If the level has dropped, oil starvation of the motor occurs. At the same time, accelerated wear of the components is noted. There is a risk of piston seizure. If there is not enough working fluid, the oiler on the dashboard usually lights up, although sometimes this is a sign of a breakdown.

In order to prevent such problems, after the change, the level control is necessarily carried out. The optimum indicator is when the oil level is between the min and max values. Wanting to do everything right, you need to gradually bring the volume to the desired level, and if the norm is exceeded, remove excess lubricant.

When choosing the right product, it is important to take into account the recommendations of the car manufacturer. Each container is provided with a special marking that defines the base, viscosity, energy efficiency class, API category. To determine what kind of oil is poured into the engine, you need to study all the parameters.

Oil type:

• Mineral compositions- produced on the basis of petroleum products with the addition of additives to improve performance, the product has a higher viscosity, accelerated loss of properties, suitable for old engines;
• Synthetics- an improved type of lubricant obtained as a result of synthesis. Differs in greater cost, fluidity, ability to work under severe loads, suitable for new, powerful cars;
• Semisynthetics- possesses the properties of the first two oils, is used at medium loads, has an optimal cost and parameters.

Viscosity - the required indicator depends on the loads, operating conditions:

• Winter formulations- there is the letter W (winter) in the marking, a number from 0 to 25 is indicated in front of it, subtracting 35 from this value, it is easy to find out the minimum start temperature;
• Summer views- denoted by numbers from 20 to 60, which indicates the dynamic viscosity of the product when the temperature of the power unit rises to 100 degrees.
• All-season versions include designations for winter and summer.

The API system assumes a choice depending on the type of engine and class, taking into account the year of manufacture:

• S - for gasoline units;
• C - for diesel versions;

The class is determined by the letters of the English alphabet, and the further it is from the beginning, the higher the level. For example, for 1989 models, the SG series is used, and for 2004 versions, the SM line is suitable.

Energy intensity - differs for different types of cars:

• For gasoline models, class A is used;
• Type B is used on diesel cars;
• For cargo versions, type G is required.

An independent search for a suitable oil is carried out taking into account the type of base, adjusted for climatic conditions, operating mode, not forgetting about the type of the motor itself. Paying attention to the year of manufacture, it is not the date of manufacture that is determined, but the period of creation.

Even if you drive a car quite rarely and very carefully, from time to time, individual consumable items and fluids need to be changed. Otherwise, you can "run into" serious problems that will cost you a pretty penny in a car service. One of these points is changing the engine oil. Each MOT in branded car services is drained old and new oil is poured.

Of course, with proper preparation, you can change the oil yourself. On this, saving a certain amount, from several hundred rubles to several thousand, depending on the service you would apply to.

To begin with, it is worth talking about the very task of the oil. It lubricates the engine during operation, thus reducing friction between parts and absorbing heat. As a result, the engine not only runs thousands of times longer, but also makes less noise and does not heat up. In addition, the oil neutralizes the acid in the engine. The reason for replacing the engine oil is its contamination with microparticles of engine parts, dust particles and organic substances. No matter how carefully you drive, the "excess" still gets into the oil. High fluid temperatures also destroy the properties of the oil. As a result, the ability to absorb substances is lost, which reduces useful activity - it is more difficult for an engine to work with such oil, if it is explained as simply as possible. Engine oil is the blood of the engine!

Before deciding to change the oil, it is worth checking its level and condition. To do this is as simple as possible, even for a girl who has never raised the hood of a car.

How to check the transparency of engine oil

Start the car before checking. You don't have to go somewhere, just wait for the engine to run a little. A few minutes are enough.

Gently pulls it out and check the oil level and color.

In the event that the oil is dark brown, and even more so black, it needs to be replaced. If the color is light, like "light" tea, do not worry.

In any case, you should not be afraid - if little is flowing, then everything is in order and the problem is solved simply and quickly. But if it is a little dark, you should not wait - an untimely oil change can cause engine damage.

How to drain a car oil

Of course, the first time it is better to ask a friend or work colleague who understands the "stuffing" of cars, drain the oil together. He will tell you what to do and will control your work. If this is not possible, it does not matter - we will handle it.

Before this action, you need to prepare for the process. To drain the oil you will need:

• socket wrench - with it you remove the oil pan bolt;
• oil filter wrench;
• oil catcher or waste container for draining and storing old oil;
• rubber gloves so as not to get dirty with oil;
• some rags or old newspapers so as not to stain everything around.

And also prepare yourself mentally.

If you have not previously started the car to check the oil condition, do so. A few minutes of engine operation will further allow the oil to drain faster due to the higher temperature - it will become more liquid. You can even ride around the house several times or go to the store, which is even better.

Next, we stop the car on level ground, after which we turn off the engine. We are waiting for about 7 minutes. If you have an SUV, then the car does not even need to be lifted to drain the oil, if there is no way to crawl, you need to raise the car. In car services, hydraulic lifts are used for this, but we can use a flyover (sometimes you can find it "in garages") or put the car on supports.

If everything is ready, we find the oil drain plug under the car. It is designed specifically to drain engine oil. In fact, this is a large nut on the bottom of the oil pan. Sometimes you have to study the instructions to find this very plug - it all depends on the manufacturer and even the brand of your car. Here we use a socket wrench - with its help we loosen the nut. It is important to know that if you have traveled before, the oil may be hot - do not burn yourself!

The oil is drained in about 2 minutes. Do not leave the car for this time, so as not to discover later that the oil has drained out of the container walls. Otherwise, it will take a long and unpleasant way to clean.

Experts advise, before putting the plug back, replace the sealing washer of the drain plug. Naturally, you should buy it in advance or find it somewhere else. set.

By the way, about filters. In addition to the oil, a new oil filter should also be installed. What for? The fact is that the engine oil circulates with the help of an oil pump in the engine, passing through the oil filter. The latter traps all the smallest details and contaminants in the oil and keeps the oil clean. The longer you don't change the oil, the dirtier your filter will be.

Change the oil filter

It is worth buying a filter just for your car brand. Otherwise, the filter may simply “not stand up”.

After the oil is drained, we find the oil filter. It has a cylindrical shape, the body is painted in white, black, orange or blue. We turn the key for the oil filter counterclockwise, thus weaken it. Just one turn is enough. We also remove the filter with our hands carefully - it will be in oil.

It is also important to prepare a new filter that will work for you when cleaning the oil - wipe its rubber seal with a small amount of clean oil. This will make the filter denser. We also recommend with a clean cloth the remaining oil around the place where the old filter is attached - the same thing. We screw in the filter first by hand, and then with the key. It is not worth tightening too much, it is enough to turn even less than one turn.

Fill in new oil

Check your vehicle manual for the type of oil you need to fill. If there are no instructions, you can find data on the Internet or contact a car service. The volume of oil can also vary, depending on the car brand - from 3.5 to 5.5 liters. So much is required to buy, as well as with a small margin for "refilling".

To avoid pouring some of the oil onto the engine, use a funnel to fill it. The danger is not only that the oil will stain or contaminate the engine, it is even more serious - the oil can become very hot and catch fire. Even if the vehicle does not catch fire, additional repairs may be required. If oil is accidentally spilled, it is best to wipe it off with a rag.

Stop filling as soon as the correct oil level is reached. Wait a few minutes for the oil to reach the bottom of the oil pan. Remember that cold oil from a canister drains more slowly than hot oil. The level of the area just filled should be slightly below the upper mark of the dipstick.

It is dangerous not only not to add oil to the engine, but also to pour it over. The fact is that too much oil, above the level on the dipstick, will cause oil to enter the crankshaft. The latter rotates at a speed of several thousand revolutions per minute - as a result, the oil turns into foam. As a result, the oil pump will not circulate the oil through the engine, which in turn will lead to a sharp reduction in engine life. It will overheat or even fail - you will have to contact a car service and pay a lot of money.

Once the oil is filled and you are sure that the level is correct, start the engine. A few minutes are enough for the new oil to disperse through the engine and start "working". Look under the vehicle and make sure no oil leaks.

How often to change the engine oil

So how is it? Car service employees recommend doing this at least every 5-10 thousand kilometers. Some manufacturers give their advice, even considering the age of the car. For example, Ford and Toyota brands recommend doing this every 6 months, or after 10 thousand kilometers. If this is not a big problem for you, change the oil every 5 thousand kilometers.

Of course, the intervals directly depend on your driving style and the activity of using the car. The more and faster you drive, the more often you need to change your oil. The loss of performance is also influenced by extreme engine operating temperatures, both during frosts and in extreme heat. Be more careful if you often ride in mud, if you are carrying or even towing a heavy load. All this affects the operation of the engine, and hence the oil.

Another reason for frequent oil changes is the age of the vehicle. If a new foreign car can operate on one "portion" for a year, then a 15-year-old "old woman" will burn oil, even if she drives very carefully. Not surprisingly, owners of these vehicles check the oil level at least once a week, if not more often. Opening the hood and looking at the dipstick is not difficult.

some cars have special indicators on the dashboard that show the state of the engine and the oil in it. The low oil level lamp came on - we check the level and draw conclusions. In expensive foreign cars, there are even more complex systems that notify the need for an oil change, analyzing the operation of the engine and gearbox. Very comfortably.

If the car is a problem Motorbor

If the car the engine has broken down and a complete replacement is required? This whole problem but not what you think. We recommend buying an engine with attachments in one of the best online stores of contract engines \ "Motorbor\ "Well, so that there would be fewer such troubles, we will tell you in our article how to properly change the oil in the engine.

How to change engine oil

The process of changing the engine oil is simple. If you do not want to turn to professionals for such a trifle, you can try to do it yourself.

First you need to buy the right oil. It is better to buy oil in a company store, where the quality will be guaranteed and, if necessary, the seller will be able to give advice. It is advisable to purchase quality oil from well-known brands.

The oil change on our own is carried out as follows:

Before starting, you need to drive the car into a pit or put it on an overpass.

Prepare inventory in advance: a bucket for draining old oil, wrenches, rags, gloves.

To increase the fluidity of the oil, it is necessary to warm up the engine. After warming up, wait a few minutes, otherwise you may get burned when draining the oil. Climbing into the pit, we examine the bottom of the car. It may be necessary to remove the engine guard. Then we find the desired cover on the engine crankcase and carefully unscrew it first with a key, then with our hands, we keep the bucket ready.

On some brands of cars, the drain is at an angle so that the oil stream can drip onto the clothing.Draining takes place quickly, about five minutes, after which some old oil remains in the engine, this is permissible.

Replacing the oil filter

Simultaneously with the oil change, it is necessary to change the oil filter. If the filter is not changed, it will become clogged, it will stop working, and the oil will pass through the bypass valve without cleaning, which will lead to additional engine wear.

Different car models have filters in different places. It is advisable to study the manual for your car in advance. Hand force is usually sufficient to remove the oil filter, but a special wrench may be required.

The filter cover is twisted, the old filter is removed. The filter to be installed must be soaked, for this you need to fill it halfway with oil, also do not forget to lubricate the rubber band on the filter housing with oil.

Install the filter and screw on the cap securely.

Filling in new oil

Screw on the crankcase cover. You can start filling the oil. Observe the oil level in the crankcase when filling. The oil level on the dipstick should be between the upper and lower marks.

In total, about 80% of the oil in the canister is consumed for filling, the rest remains in case the oil needs to be topped up during the operation of the car.

Start the engine, warm it up, make sure there are no oil leaks, then reinstall the engine guard if it was necessary to remove it.

What is the frequency of oil change for the engine

Modern synthetic oils can retain their properties for a very long time. It is usually recommended to change the oil at intervals of 10-15 thousand kilometers.

However, replacement intervals are reduced by 25-30% when exposed to unfavorable factors, such as: engine operation with overloads, strong and multiple temperature changes, increased dustiness or humidity.