The topic of the article is Niva hydraulic compensators of the old and new type. Since the beginning of production of 21214 engines, the plant has installed old-style hydraulics; from October-November 2008 to the present, new-style hydraulics have been installed. When of this engine it would be more correct to call the spare part a hydraulic support, but since everyone is accustomed to hydraulic compensators, so be it.

Niva hydraulic compensators, a bit of theory

What exactly is a hydraulic compensator and why is it needed in the engine? The valves have a thermal gap. You can “choose” it in two ways. The first way is mechanical adjustment. Either with washers, as on the “eight”, or bolts, as on the “classic”. The second way is to install a hydraulic compensator between the camshaft cam and the valve. Oil is supplied to the hydraulic chamber under pressure, and thereby the valve clearance is selected. But there is one thing, BUT. For quality work hydraulic compensators require a certain oil pressure. According to German documentation, at least 1.5 kg per idle speed. On our classic engine, normal pressure at idle, 1.2-1.5 kg. But we hung a hydraulic chain tensioner and eight hydraulic compensators on our oil pump. The system is working at its limit. Let me remind you that the design of the pump remains from a penny and has a performance designed for a 1.2 liter engine. Shown in the photo. 1 – old-style hydraulic support, 2 – new-style hydraulic support, 3 – new-style hydraulic support cup.

Hydraulics old and new

Old-style Niva hydraulic compensators

The first Chevrolet Niva rolled off the assembly line in September 2002. Until 2004-05, General Motors supplied its own hydraulic compensators (I never found the manufacturer). Cars from these years are still driven with only an oil change. But after this time, the “domestic spill” hydraulics began to appear, and problems immediately began. To date none quality replacements does not exist, only surgical removal and installation of a “death to old-style hydraulics” kit. Let me remind you that with old-style hydraulics you can only use. Details are described in a separate article.

New sample hydraulics

A separate chapter will be devoted to hydraulic compensators of the new type, as such, now only about the differences and general issues. Apply from October-November 2008. The picture is exactly the same as with the old-style hydraulics. The first couple of years, high-quality wetsuits and good hot cups. Then, hydraulic compensators of unknown origin and disgustingly processed “half-baked” glasses. There is a category of nivovods and shnivovods who firmly believe that under their hood there is not a Fiat engine from the 60s of the last century, but something new and modern. Therefore, it is necessary to put exclusively what the designers intended. For them, in December 2013, I ordered the first trial batch of original hydraulic guides from Germany. Don't be surprised, it's from Germany. Because our designers did not bother themselves with “brain activity”, but simply adapted hydraulics from BMW.

Installation

Several times they sent me links from forums about the fact that they installed German hydraulic compensators, but it became little better than it was. The issue is not with the INA hydraulic compensators, but with the cups. If you look at how the hydraulic compensators are installed in the cylinder head, you will see that the vector of application of force by the camshaft cam goes vertically, and the hydraulic valves and cups are at an angle to the vertical. The cups are traditionally made from shit of poor “half-baked” material, so after a while (50-70 thousand km) an elliptical groove begins to appear, along which the oil pressure required for the hydraulics begins to disappear. Therefore, if you want to update the system and install German hydraulic compensators, install new glasses.

Every car enthusiast when operating vehicle always listens to how his car works. Appearance in engine operation extraneous noise, as a rule, does not bring joy to the owner. The presence of the slightest malfunction requires urgent diagnosis and elimination of the problem. During operation, the engine generates heat, and when it is exposed to metal, the latter begins to expand. As a result, large gaps form on some parts, which lead to the appearance of extraneous noise. One of the problems can be knocking hydraulic compensators, which independently adjust the required clearance. In this article we will come to a broad explanation of the topic. What are hydraulic compensators (their structure, purpose), why do they knock on different modes engine operation - read about all this below.

What it is?

This element is a piston with the help of which the automatic principle work of this device quite simple. The bottom of the piston interacts with the camshaft cam.

A ball valve is installed in the piston, with the help of which the valve opens and oil flow begins. As the piston is filled with oil, pressure will be applied to the existing plunger, causing the piston to move all the way to the cam. As a result, the installation takes place in an automatic way the most optimal clearance. When the cam acts on the piston, some of the oil escapes through the valve.

The piston drops slightly, thereby creating a gap. The latter on the hydraulic compressor is regulated by the flow of incoming oil. At this stage, we learned what hydraulic compensators (their devices) are.

Why are they knocking?

It's easy enough to hear. engine or hot begins to appear directly during engine operation and has a direct impact on the stability of its operation.

The reasons that the element is knocking “hot” are as follows:

• Out of order The system does not create the required pressure.
• The hydraulics of the hydraulic compensator are broken, that is, there is no required amount oil or, conversely, there is an excess of it.
• The landing site of the part has increased significantly due to the heating of the engine, during which the metals expand.

These causes of malfunction are typical only for a warm engine. It is worth noting that the sound of these elements on a hot engine is quite rare.

Most often, the hydraulic compensator knocks “when cold”, while for both modes the sound may appear due to Low quality oils It also occurs due to a contaminated lubricant purification system.

Knock of hydraulic compensators on a cold engine

There are many more reasons why a part knocks on a cold engine than on a hot one. It is not always possible to determine the source of the “clatter” of hydraulic compensators. Therefore, in some situations it is advisable to seek help from a specialized station.

The main reasons why hydraulic compensators knock on a cold engine:

1. Production on the plunger.
2. Severe contamination of the engine oil due to shift violations. Please note: when the engine warms up for this reason, the knocking will disappear, since a new batch of oil supplied to the part will wash out the exhaust.
3. Formation of bubbles, which negatively affects the compressibility of the lubricant.
4. Failure or uneven operation of the ball valve.
5. Using low quality oil.
6. Using lubricant with high viscosity. As a result, oil does not reach the parts at all until the engine warms up.
7. The filter element is dirty.

Now we know perfectly well the main reasons why the hydraulic compensator knocks “when cold.” It is worth noting that several units cannot knock at the same time; as a rule, only one sounds. To find out which one has become unusable, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics.

How to find out a faulty element

Understanding the reasons possible malfunction in engine operation, you need to consider how to determine the faulty part. In specialized workshops, a knocking hydraulic compensator is determined using acoustic diagnostics.

In addition, a knocking hydraulic compensator can be detected on a disassembled engine. To do this, you need to remove the valve cover and push each of the elements. Elements that easily sink will be faulty, since the lowest pressure prevails in them. The most important thing when diagnosing a malfunction is that the camshaft cam does not affect the units. It is impossible to determine the faulty element using other methods.

What to do when an element knocks

Most drivers are concerned about one question: when the hydraulic compensator knocks, what should you do? Since most knocking problems are directly related to low oil quality or interruptions in the lubrication system, it is necessary to replace the engine oil and filter element. In addition, the system channels should be flushed to remove existing build-up.

Oil selection

In such a situation, many will think about what kind of oil to pour when the hydraulic compensators are knocking. The answer is quite simple: you need to fill in lubricant of the required viscosity, which is recommended for use by the manufacturer. Currently, in the summer, it is most popular to use semi-synthetics in cars, that is, 10W-40. IN winter time you should pour 5W-40.

After changing the oil and filter, you should not be sure that there will be no sound. Quite the opposite: the knocking sound of hydraulic compensators “when cold” will also be heard due to the fact that there is no lubricant left in the pistons after draining. However, after the engine warms up, it should disappear, thereby confirming the correctness of the replacement decision.

Flushing

Using new oil will not always help eliminate knocking. This is due to how severe the fault was. In this case, it is necessary to determine faulty element and dismantle it for subsequent washing in gasoline. Often due to use bad oil The compensator becomes gradually contaminated. The removed compensators are mounted back into place in the order in which they were dismantled. It is worth noting that washing the elements is quite complex process, which will require special skills from the car owner.

The knock can be eliminated in the following way:

1. Crank crankshaft until the valve that corresponds to the faulty element opens.
2. Then you need to turn the valve at an angle to restore the correct installation of the part.
3. After this, you should start the engine and check for sound.

This method is applicable if the hydraulic compensators on a Grant car are knocking “when cold.” If the cause is not eliminated and the sound is still observed, a complete replacement of the part is required.

It is worth remembering that due to the design modern cars exactly domestic production, for all models last generations When starting the engine, a brief knocking sound of the hydraulic compensators is observed. There is nothing wrong with this, and it is not always possible to eliminate such a malfunction even as a result of repairs in a specialized center or after complete replacement details.

Installing a new part

It occurs if the sound does not disappear after new oil. Car owners do not dare experiment with washing. You can replace the compensator yourself, and the process is identical for all car models. The only difference in specific models is the need to replace the gasket due to the engine design.

Let's consider the process of replacing compensators:

1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Remove the sprocket from the camshaft.
3. Check the damper and tensioner for wear.
4. Take off the bed.
5. We lay out the pushers strictly in the order of removal.
6. Take out the compensators and lay them out in order.
7. The lubrication system and hydraulic compensator seats are cleaned.
8. We carefully install the new elements in place, and screw them in with a torque wrench to control the applied force.
9. The remaining parts are installed in the reverse order.

The result of ignoring repairs

If the driver heard that the hydraulic compensator was knocking “when cold”, but still ignored the repairs, the consequences may not be the most pleasant, despite the fact that compensators do not have much effect on the wear of other engine components.

As a result of untimely repairs, problems with the engine lubrication system may occur. In addition, signs serious problems there will be a decrease in total power power unit, as well as a drop in vehicle acceleration speed and an increase in fuel consumption when driving at medium settings.

So, we found out why the hydraulic compensator knocks “when cold.”

The transition from adjusting bolts to hydraulic compensators (HC) made it possible to abandon the need to adjust thermal clearances every 10 thousand kilometers. The operating principle of hydraulic compensators, as well as their diagnostics, are described in the article Why hydraulic compensators knock when hot and cold. In this article we will talk about how to change hydraulic compensators on a Chevrolet Niva with your own hands. Such a replacement is necessary if the problem is not oil system or oil that does not match the engine, but due to the malfunction of these parts. Niva Chevrolet hydraulic compensators often cause trouble for car owners - valves knock, the engine begins to work intermittently.

Why do Chevrolet Niva valves knock?

On regular “Classic” VAZ engines, rockers are installed in the gas distribution mechanism, and the valve clearances are adjusted with screws. On VAZ-2123 engines, instead of propellers, hydraulic compensators– they are made in the form of the same adjusting screws, but there are extra gaps in hydraulic device are removed by a plunger pair operating under oil pressure. The hydraulic compensator on the Shevinivsky engine is designed very simply, and consists of four parts: the body itself; return spring; the lower and upper parts of the plunger pair ( check valve with the piston and the plunger itself). Knocking valves in the timing belt Chevrolet Niva may for several reasons: available insufficient pressure oils in the system; The engine oil in the engine is dirty, clogged oil channels ;. When the valves knock “hot” - this is worse, you need to remove the camshaft from the main body and clean the channels. If flushing does not help, the hydraulic compensators need to be replaced. Valve knock can be different, and it does not always occur due to the fault of the hydraulic valves; its cause may be: worn camshaft cams;

worn rocker surfaces;

wear of the end of the valve stem itself. But it often happens the other way around - due to hydraulic compensators, intense wear of the rockers and camshaft occurs.

It is not recommended to drive with valve knock:

parts of the gas distribution mechanism fail; due to large valve clearances, engine power decreases and fuel consumption increases; It's unpleasant to listen to such a knock. Everything you need for replacement To work you will need the following tools and materials: flat and Phillips screwdrivers;

ratchet wrench with extension and set of attachments;

socket wrench (tube) for 10 and 12; soft wire, wire or plastic clamps; torque wrench ; pad 1. valve cover ; clean rag. 2. How to change hydraulic lifters on a Chevrolet Niva video 3. If you are going to change the HA outdoors, then find a clean, dry, level area and work on a windless and sunny day. Wait until the engine has completely cooled down. If you open the hood, this process will go faster. Turn on 4. neutral gear

5. and disconnect the battery. Now you can start replacing the hydraulic compensators. For your convenience, we have created step by step guide, which will help you with this. 6. Remove

7. plastic casing 8. above the engine (not available on all models). 9. Carefully remove the sprocket from the camshaft. 10. Unscrew the nut of the main oil line (ramp) and the clamp bolts. 11. Unscrew the camshaft nuts, then carefully remove it. At the same time, you can check its condition and replace it if necessary. 12. Remove all the rockers, being careful not to lose the springs that hold them in place. 13. Unscrew the hydraulic compensators.

14. Remove the oil rail. Perform this operation very carefully so as not to bend the thin tubes. 15. Use a clean cloth to remove dirt from the HA wells. Don't forget to wipe the oil rail. 16. Reinstall the oil rail and screw in the new hydraulic valves. Tightening torque 2 kg s (20 Nm).

17. Reinstall the rocker with springs and camshaft, having first turned it to desired angle. Tightening torque 2 kg s (20 N m). 18. Place the sprocket on the camshaft and secure with a bolt. Bolt tightening torque 4 kg s (40 N m). 19. Reinstall the hydraulic chain tensioner and secure with bolts. Tightening torque 2 kg s (20 N m). 20. Place the camshaft cover (not the valve cover) and the rail mounts, then tighten the nuts with a torque of 2 kg s (20 N m). 21. Tighten the ramp nut with a torque of 2.5–3 kg s (25–30 Nm). 22. Check the marks on the distributor and crankshaft. Then turn the crankshaft two turns and check again.

23. Install the valve cover. Sometimes you have to change the valve cover gasket, but not on all engines. This may be due to the poor quality of the gaskets. If the gasket is in order, is not jammed or torn anywhere, then there is no need to change it. 24. Connect all rubber hoses and pipe air filter and put on the plastic cover. 25. Connect the battery and start the engine. At first, the hydraulic compensators will knock, but within 20–50 seconds they will fill with oil and quiet down. If the new main engines continue to knock, raise the engine speed to 2 thousand for 1-2 minutes to increase the oil pressure.

Which is better - hydraulic compensators or adjusting bolts?

Hydraulic compensators installed from the factory are not always of high quality, and can begin to knock even after a short mileage. In some cases, the cause of the knocking is an untwisted main valve, that is, it was not tightened with the proper force during installation (tightening 2-2.2 kgf). But if the parts are already inoperable, the question arises - how to replace the faulty hydraulic valves. The most reliable on automotive market are considered civil corporations German company INA, also for the Chevy Niva, hydraulic compensators are produced by AvtoVAZ, moreover, hydraulic compensators come in old and new models, they differ in the cylinder heads (cylinder heads became different for cars produced after 2008). Hydraulic compensators are mainly sold individually, but they are not cheap - the price of one AvtoVAZ Group is approximately 330-400 rubles, at the same time adjusting bolt costs only 30-50 rubles. If the driver agrees to adjust the valves every 10 thousand km, then it is better to install the bolts - there are fewer problems and the repair is cheaper.

All machines have different parts installed. That is why, in the event of a malfunction or breakdown, you need to know exactly how to carry out repairs yourself, if possible. In this article we will look at step by step instructions on replacing hydraulic compensators on a Chevrolet Niva, which will help you save money on visiting a service station.

Functions of hydraulic compensators

This mechanism is very simple to operate. It consists of only five load-bearing parts:

1. Frame;
2. Sleeve;
3. Plunger springs;
4. Check valve;
5. Plungers.

Sometimes there are plungers without internal holes, where the upper part of the structure resembles a sphere and acts as a support. The plunger spring is located between it and the bushing, which, in turn, performs all motor functions.

Schematic structure of a hydraulic compensator

Mechanism of operation: briefly about the main thing

The reverse side of the camshaft cam is turned towards the pusher. The action occurs by pushing out the spring due to the work of the plunger. In the gap that appears, oil actively flows through the ball valve of the hydraulic compensator, directly from lubrication system. The next step is to close the ball valve mechanism as a result of the action of the spring in the plunger. At this moment, the camshaft cam changes its position to the opposite, that is, with the other side facing the hydraulic tappet. At this moment, the hydraulic compensators transmit the impact to the supporting timing valves, and when the plunger pair moves, a certain amount of oil is released, ensuring stable engine operation. The hydraulic compensator itself freely changes its vector, which leads to the appearance required clearance in the space between the pusher and the cam. Its size determines the amount of oil volume entering the system.

Reasons and signs of the need for replacement

There can be quite a lot of such reasons and signs. Fortunately, breakdowns happen infrequently, and car repairs do not take much time. So, typical reasons breakdowns of hydraulic compensators in Chevrolet Niva:

• Using cheap, low quality motor oil;
• Insufficiently frequent replacement of lubrication system filters or failure to perform this procedure at all;
• Increasing gaps inside the main mechanism due to worn bushings and plungers. In this case, the amount of oil leakage will be poorly controlled and will lead to incorrect operation and subsequent breakdown of the gas distribution mechanism.
• Wear or clogging of the ball valve, which will certainly lead to increased oil leakage from the plunger cavity.
• Wedging of the plunger pair. At the same time, a distinct strong knocking sound is heard in the engine. This deviation is one of the most serious and can quickly disable the entire mechanism of hydraulic compensators.
• Increased loads in the gas distribution system.

When you don't need to change

In 65-70% of cases, hydraulic compensators do not break, but simply become dirty, which is why malfunctions begin. If such a situation arises, they can be disassembled and washed thoroughly. WITH This is quite difficult to do, so here is a list of tools that will definitely help you:

• nitrosolvent;
• kerosene;
• petrol;
• acetone.

The whole process may take almost a whole day, but in the end you get working system without the cost of replacing new parts. Otherwise, repairs will need to be carried out.

Procedure for performing work on a Chevrolet Niva

Before replacing hydraulic compensators, you must first purchase a new valve cover gasket. It is held on by sealant, and when removing the cover you will definitely not be able to damage it. We will also need:

• standard set of keys,
• ratchet,
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers,
• a small piece of wire or a small nylon tie (clamp),
• rubber bulb for pumping out oil,
• brush for cleaning the mechanism after work.

Now let's start replacing the hydraulic compensators:

1. Carefully remove the cylinder head cover by unscrewing the valve cover fasteners.

   Group photo mechanism

2. Next we check the functionality of the hydraulic supports. We press the valve drive levers one by one so that the plungers of the supports go down to the limit. If this action is quite difficult to carry out and the support weakly yields to your pressure, then the hydraulic compensators are in order. Otherwise, the levers move easily back and forth.
3. Turn the head slowly crankshaft, in this case it is necessary to align the mark on the camshaft sprocket with the mark (tide) on the base of the camshaft bearing housing.
4. Using a regular Phillips screwdriver, press the chain tensioner plunger down until it stops.
5. We turn out the bolt securing the camshaft sprocket, the movement is made counterclockwise.

   Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt.

6. Without releasing the tensioner plunger, unscrew the sprocket from the camshaft without disconnecting it from the base of the chain. In this case, the chain must be tightly fastened to the drive. oil pump.

   Properly attached chain to the oil pump base

7. We fix the sprocket together with the chain at the engine mounting location.

   Fastening sprocket with chain

8. Unscrew the nut of the stud securing the bearing housing at the base of the camshaft.

   Unscrew the fastening stud nut

9. After all the manipulations, you gain access to the oil supply fitting to the hydraulic supports and can remove it along with the studs, removing them one by one.
10. We see the pipeline from the side, we turn it away the opposite side from o-rings with ramp posts.

    Unscrew the pipeline

11. Next, remove the remaining nuts tightened at the camshaft bearing housing, and along with them all the flat washers.
12. We remove the entire bearing housing along with the camshaft base and cylinder block studs. To make your work as easy as possible, when refitting bearings with camshaft You shouldn’t turn the carrier shaft of the housing, even if it’s not very convenient for you to get the rest of the parts.

    The bearing housing is removed together with the camshaft base.

13. Carefully unscrew the valve drive lever.

    Dismantling the valve actuator lever should be carried out with extreme care.

14. We take out the load-bearing hydraulic support.

    We work with hydraulic support

15. Carefully remove the compensators themselves from the cylindrical holes of the block head and the rack with the ramp.

    The hydraulic compensators themselves are removed from the cylinder head

16. We pump out the old oil from the holes in the cylinder heads of the block. In the absence of special equipment, as at a service station, you can use a regular rubber bulb. If you do not carry out these manipulations, then the target block of the hydraulic support will not be able to be screwed in completely, which means that the breakdown will definitely happen again.
17. We install the valve drive lever and camshaft in reverse order.
18. We tighten the bearing housing fastening nuts strictly in the order shown in the diagram. Otherwise, the entire base will not be able to be secured with the necessary force.

    The correct procedure for tightening the nuts when replacing hydraulic compensators on a Chevrolet Niva

19. Again, press the valve drive levers one by one so that the plungers of the supports go down to the limit, as was done in the beginning. You should have a gap between the valve lever and the cam, its length is usually 3-5 centimeters.
20. At the final stage, we put the remaining parts in the reverse order.

System health check

After all the parts have already been installed, clean the valve cover from dirt, dust and oil drips. Using a small brush, remove the remaining sealant and old gasket from both surfaces of the base; this can also be done with the back of a penknife. We apply sealant to the perimeter of the supporting cover and install the purchased gasket, making sure that it does not extend beyond the edges of the upholstery. We apply exactly the same layer on the opposite surface and fix it with light pressure. If you still have questions about repairs, you can watch a video on replacing hydraulic compensators in two parts.

Video: How to change hydraulic compensators on a Chevrolet Niva with your own hands

Now, when driving, the knocking sound in the car should stop completely, but if this does not happen and you hear an annoying sound, then you should contact the nearest car service center to have it repaired. full diagnostics and subsequent repairs.

Alternative option: how to replace with bolts

Many craftsmen prefer to replace hydraulic compensators with bolts. The mechanism is the same, except for the parts themselves. This is done in order to save money as much as possible, because the purchase of all turnkey equipment will cost you up to two thousand rubles. With this alternative the engine starts to run louder, but idling- more stable. At the same time, to fasten these bolts you will need an additional special probe, with which they will be tightened. It should be remembered that when carrying out such manipulations official guarantee no longer affects the car, but you get a more durable system.

Replacing hydraulic compensators is not an easy task. But after carrying out all the work listed above, you will be able to get a working system without the cost of repairmen, and also gain invaluable experience. And if a repeated breakdown occurs, you can easily clean and replace the hydraulic compensators, saving time and money.

Most owners can understand that hydraulic compensators on a Chevrolet Niva (as, indeed, on other brands and models) need to be replaced simply by ear. They start tapping in a very specific and characteristic way. However, you should not run to the auto store for new ones as soon as you hear familiar (or unfamiliar, but seemingly alarming) sounds.

If a knock occurs when the engine has not yet accelerated, it is not a critical sign. You should pay attention to the tapping only when it does not stop even when the engine is well warmed up.

Usually only one of them breaks. But it is almost impossible to determine which one - at least for a non-professional and without the appropriate equipment. So they usually change everything as a set. In fact, that’s how they are sold (buying one is even more difficult than buying a set).

Replacing hydraulic lifters on a Chevrolet Niva- the matter is quite specific. There is nothing impossible about it, but if you are not too friendly with hardware and are not confident in yourself, take the car to a service station. And if everything is different, do it yourself!

Prescribed Procedure

If the hydraulic compensators are damaged, you will have to buy them in addition to them - even if you changed it not so long ago. In most cases, the gasket is sealed to the sealant, so that when removing the cover it is impossible not to damage it. However, even without sealant, the gasket is regularly welded to surfaces and torn off in patches. So, we change the hydraulic compensators.

• The fasteners are screwed off from the valve cover, it is removed and set aside;
• The camshaft star is fixed with wire and removed;
• The crankshaft fastenings are unscrewed and the bed is dismantled;
• The rockers are removed and laid out in the order in which they were removed. In principle, they are numbered, so this does not seem to be necessary - if you agree to spend time figuring out the serial number during assembly;
• Hydraulic compensators are screwed together. If you are an expert and are able to resuscitate them, lay them out again in order to make reinstallation easier. If new ones have already been purchased, the old ones can be immediately thrown into the bucket;
• The oil line is cleaned and washed. The same is done with seats hydraulic compensators;
• The holes for them are coated motor oil(not detention!);
• Now the most important thing: putting hydraulic compensators in place. They must be installed with a certain force - and this condition is best observed. So you will have to buy or borrow a key with a force sensor. Without it, only a person with sufficient experience can rely on the hand;
• All removed parts are returned to their place. The order of their installation is the reverse of how they were removed;
• After returning the camshaft to its place, all hydraulic compensators are set with a wide flat screwdriver - this way the valves will be in the working position. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the engine will refuse to start;
• The valve cover remains.