As you know, you can't go far without brakes either in life or by car, because, in addition to acceleration, you also need to stop in time, prevent a collision with an obstacle, etc.

Consider how the VAZ 2110 brake system is arranged, which malfunctions are most common, and what modifications are possible in order to improve the braking device.

Brake hydraulic drive diagram

Device

The machine has hydraulic brakes installed and generally reliably. They are double-contoured and have a diagonal distribution. That is, if one part suddenly failed, then braking by another circuit is possible. For the sake of safety, the brakes of the VAZ 2110 are triggered diagonally, one circuit is the right front and left rear wheels, the other is also diagonally.

Such a device allows you to brake efficiently (without skidding and other troubles) even in the event of a malfunction, if the brakes are missing in one of the circuits.

Consider the braking system. The hydraulic drive includes a vacuum booster, as well as a dual-circuit regulator that creates pressure in the rear brakes.

The brake caliper device is described in this article:

In addition, the hydraulic drive is equipped with pipelines divided into two circuits, hoses and brakes that provide braking to the front and rear mechanisms.

Actuates the hydraulic pedal located in the passenger compartment (middle). Here are the main components of a hydraulic drive:

1. Vacuum amplifier. It is designed in such a way that it creates pressure on the piston of the master cylinder, and thus causes braking;

   Vacuum brake booster

2. Pressure regulator drive. It is through it that the working brake fluid enters the rear brake mechanisms;

   Brake pressure regulator drive

3. The pressure regulator itself. Already from the name it is clear that this device is responsible for the force of pressure, its decrease or increase. He does this depending on how loaded the rear axle of the machine is;

   Pressure regulator

4. Master cylinder with pistons, equipped with a reservoir. The filler neck of the tank is equipped with a TZ emergency level sensor;

   Brake master cylinder

5. Brake mechanism for the front wheel. Its main parts are disc, pads and wheel cylinders. The mechanism also provides an indicator to prevent complete wear and damage of the linings;

   Front wheel brake

6. Brake mechanism for the rear wheel. Unlike the front disc brakes, the rear ones are drum brakes. This is the factory set. However, many car owners believe that their device does not provide high-quality braking, and change them to disc ones.

The brakes need attention. Without waiting for the control light to light up, signaling a critical level of TJ or wear of the linings, and even more so, without causing the brakes to disappear altogether, it is necessary to carry out preventive checks.

Particular attention is paid to all connections and hoses, since the "escaped" brake fluid will not give an opportunity to brake, and from here it is not far from the tragedy.

Alarms

The following symptoms are quite unsafe, please note:

1. If the brakes are completely gone, then definitely - you can't go further, even to the service station! If self-repair on the spot is not possible, or simply impossible, you need to call a tow truck;
2. When braking, there is a strong vibration, especially felt in the steering column. You press the pedal, and it's just hard to hold the steering wheel in your hands. There can be several reasons for vibration:
   Many argue that vibration can occur due to the fact that there are unvented discs. Their device is such that they really do not like it when braking occurs in the rain, or even right in a puddle. No repair will help here - you need to replace the disks with ventilated ones;
   Vibration is also possible in the event of a malfunction in the rear drums. If, upon inspection, you find dark spots on the working surface, then this indicates uneven wear. In this case, the vibration is usually very strong. Such drums need urgent repair, and possibly replacement with disc brakes;
   Check the front brake discs for deformation. In this case, vibration is also observed.
3. The brake pedal is too tight. There may also be several reasons for this:
   A clogged vacuum booster air filter may cause the pedal to become stiff;
   Check the vacuum booster itself. Its possible malfunctions are destruction of the diaphragm, tip, jamming of the check valve, damage to the hose connecting the intake manifold with the amplifier. In all these cases, a stiff pedal syndrome can be observed, and repair of any of these malfunctions is necessary;
   Also, the pedal can get tighter as the pads wear, check them too.
4. Hisses when the brake is applied. If it hisses exactly at the moment you press the pedal, you need to urgently check the vacuum amplifier, and then decide what it needs - repair or replacement. But if it hisses when you release the brake, then this is a normal phenomenon. Unless, of course, hiss is not too obvious.

This material will help with self-replacement of the rear brake pads:

Refinement

Many, believing that the brakes are bad, and the repair does not help them, decide on significant alterations and tuning. For example, tuning the VAZ 2110 brake system may include replacing the rear drum mechanisms with disc ones.

It is especially important to know here that the braking of the rear wheels should be softer and come a little later than the front wheels to prevent skidding.

Another possible tuning idea is replacing the vacuum booster as well. Instead of the standard ones, they are installed from the Lada Priora. This usually helps primarily in that vibration is not felt, and the pedal works with optimal force.

And do not forget - after each intervention in the work of the brakes, they need to be pumped.

You can read more about replacing a vacuum brake booster in this material:

Hissing when pressing the brake pedal is one of the most common problems encountered in the operation of both domestic and foreign cars.

The thing is that most drivers react sensitively to various sounds that accompany the operation of car mechanisms. There is no exception when a hiss is heard when the brake pedal is pressed.

But it is far from always worth panic - especially in cases where the hiss of the brake pedal when pressed does not affect the efficiency of the brake system in any way. In order to understand the nature of this sound, let's take a closer look at the work of the vacuum brake booster.

Brakes are one of the main components of any car. And if, when you press the brake pedal, you hear hiss, squeaks, the structure itself fails or, conversely, is too solid, you need to urgently correct the situation, do not tighten or postpone possible repairs. Or at least diagnose the causes of trouble. Knowledge and understanding of the problem accompanies its quickest resolution, and timely correction can save you from unforeseen situations on the road.

Hissing when pressing the brake pedal - the main causes

So, why do the brakes hiss when you press the pedal? In fact, there are not many reasons for this problem - only two:

1. The vacuum amplifier is out of order
2. Air brake system

We will talk about these problems and ways to solve them in our today's article.

The level of hiss when you press the pedal - which is normal and which is not

There is a category of drivers who listen to every slightest creak or sound very carefully, and try to hear signs of a breakdown in them. A car is a power-driven vehicle in which there are a sufficient number of components and mechanisms that can create a small permissible noise level. You shouldn't really listen to this and immediately go to the service center, where, with great persistence, you will definitely find problems and be offered to fix it. The brake pedal, when pressed, in most cases emits a slight hiss.

I must say that you need to check the brakes for various noises when the car is running. In this case, the windows and doors must be closed, and all devices that may emit additional noise must, if possible, be turned off. A low level of noise in the passenger compartment can occur due to the design feature of the brake system, which, as a rule, has two vacuum chambers. When you press the brake pedal, different pressures are generated in them, which is why a slight hiss occurs. If it is minimal, and almost imperceptible, then there will be no problems during braking.

If at idle, when you press the pedal, you hear a loud, choking sound or strong hiss, and it is pressed tightly, then you need to look for problems. First of all, the vacuum amplifier is checked. A tight pedal is not a sign of breakage of this part, especially in severe frost, but, coupled with a hiss, it indicates the need to check it.

The braking system is constantly used by the driver, therefore the system elements are under load. Whatever driving style the driver preaches, over time it is necessary to check the brakes for serviceability. This will ensure the safety of all road users.

The vacuum amplifier has a diaphragm, which over time, like any rubber material, begins to burst and crack. This does not allow to fully fulfill the functional purpose - to build up the required pressure. The intake vacuum can also come out of standing, but more often this is the first option.

Vacuum brake booster - how to diagnose a malfunction

It is not difficult to diagnose a malfunction of a vacuum brake booster, it becomes noticeable - the brake pedal becomes firm when pressed. But an indirect symptom of a malfunction may be changed idle speed with the pedal depressed ... This is due to the depletion of the fuel mixture caused by the ingress of "excess" air into the engine cylinders, which can even stall if the "suction" is too strong.

This is most often due to damage to the brake booster diaphragm. Moreover, it is not at all necessary from old age - sometimes the o-rings of the master brake cylinder let the brake fluid pass, and it enters the amplifier housing.

Some car owners manage to sort out the brake booster on their own - even repair kits are sold for domestic cars. But, in general, this is a thankless task - the body of the "vacuum cleaner" is not separable, and not everyone can neatly and tightly connect its parts.

In addition, the operation of the brake system is also affected by the adjustment of the protrusion of the rod of the "vacuum cleaner" from the body - an incorrect setting can reduce the efficiency of the amplifier or cause incomplete "release" of the working brake cylinders. Among motorists, this method of checking the amplifier is widespread - you start the engine after pressing the brake. When starting the motor, the pedal should "go to the floor".

The process of removing the vacuum brake booster

If the amplifier is defective, the brake pedal will still be "tight". In general, booster-related hiss is normal. But in the case when its volume has increased for no apparent reason, get ready to replace the vacuum amplifier before it completely fails.

How to check the vacuum brake booster

The braking system of a car is constantly exposed to loads, and in the so-called aggressive driving style on city streets, these loads increase unreasonably. In general, these kinds of impacts are ongoing, even if you prefer a loyal level of speed. Therefore, the brake system must be diagnosed with enviable regularity in order to provide the motorist with the maximum degree of safety. Malfunctions in the vacuum amplifier occur, as a rule, due to the loss of condition of the diaphragm located inside this unit. It can burst or become covered with cracks, and there is also a natural obsolescence of rubber and its loss of its qualities. What's the bottom line? The diaphragm ceases to form a vacuum. In some cases, the outlet valve can also be supplied.

To check the performance of the vacuum amplifier, you need to resort to the following manipulations:

In general, each time you press the brake pedal, the engine speed will decrease slightly, however, if the difference becomes significant, it is worth visually diagnosing the hose connecting the amplifier to the power unit. If it has any defects, then the collector will become leaky, respectively, you will not have to rely on normal mixture formation and the motor will be unstable. The solution is simple - we change the damaged hose.

Replacing the vacuum brake booster with a VAZ 2107 video

Air in the brakes how to fix the problem

Brake vacuum is the most common cause It is another matter if the texture of the sound is significantly different by ear. That is, the hiss is quite loud and as if choking.

At the same time, when pressing the brake pedal on a cold one, we feel the excessive stiffness of its stroke. And also - the buoyancy of the engine speed (and sometimes it can stall). In such cases, close attention should be paid to the vacuum amplifier as a possible cause of the malfunction.

Well, a tight pedal, of course, can still be from frost, for example, until the main one warms up. But the revs and a rather strong hiss are already direct indicators that you need to look under the hood! How can I check it?

The braking system of a car is subjected to constant loads, and with the so-called sports style of driving around the city - also overloads. This happens regularly, even with a measured and unhurried rhythm - you can't get away from this problem. Therefore, this unit must be regularly tested to ensure the driver and passengers are as safe as possible. So it is with the brake vacuum. As a rule, malfunctions in its operation occur due to the failure of a special diaphragm located inside the device.

It bursts, cracks, ceases to fulfill the duties assigned to it - to build up a vacuum. Sometimes the exhaust valve also malfunctions. Available to every driver, checking the performance of the vacuum on their own is carried out in the following way. We start the engine and let it idle for some time so that it reaches;

1. We turn off the engine;
2. We press on the brake;
3. The first press will be no different from the usual one when the unit is running.
4. The pedal must be squeezed as much as possible: at the same time, the diaphragm extends in the amplifier and a vacuum is created;

We release the pedal, we squeeze it out again. If there is a problem with the system, then during the second approach, the vacuum will not be able to create, and you will tactilely observe the uncharacteristic small stroke of the pedal itself. These changes indicate a breakdown in the brake booster.

How to bleed the brakes in 5 minutes - video

Car brake- this is the most important detail in the structure of the entire car. The braking system should not only work without breakdowns, but simply be in perfect condition. This primarily concerns the brake pedal in the vehicle's braking system. In the article we will tell you about the correct state of this part. What it should be: tight, soft or somewhere in between?

The state of force when the brake is applied varies. The first state allows you to press the brake pedal effortlessly, softly and smoothly, and it is important whether there are jerks or, even more so, failures, which indicate problems in the system. There are other options when you should go immediately for a brake inspection - and tight.

We hasten to note that, the reason why the brake pedal is working hard is not necessarily one of the number of simple malfunctions that accompany such problems. Moreover, the reasons may relate exclusively to a particular type of braking system.

Let's name the reasons why the pedal can be pressed tight:

Malfunction in the vacuum booster. A clogged air filter may be installed, which can be easily replaced;

Puffing up the valve in the vacuum booster. Valve replacement solution;

Damage to the amplifier diaphragm. With such a malfunction, the entire vacuum amplifier changes;

Vacuum booster tip problem. Replace it;

Pay attention to the operation of the check valve. Replace it if necessary;

In the event that fuel passes into the chamber of the vacuum amplifier, then, probably, the tightness of the amplifier is faulty, or, as before, the check valve may be faulty. The solution is to replace the vacuum booster and check valve;

The intake manifold and the vacuum booster are connected to each other by a hose, which after a while may fail or have cracks. There may also be a weakening of the hose at the fitting itself, for example, due to a clamp. Correct the problem, perform a simple hose change, or replace or tighten the clamp.

The specialists of the company "AUTOmarket Intercom" recommendtimely inspecthoses, because in cold weather they can crack or fly off the struzer. The reaction of the hose depends on the operating conditions - in cold and cold weather it behaves normally, but when the car arrives it can heat up and slide, besides, they wear out and exfoliate inside. It is difficult for the brake fluid to pass through the hose and the brake pressure becomesmore difficult.

Poor-quality brake fluid, as well as with the constant ingress of fuel and other fluids into the working wheel cylinders, swelling and destruction of the internal sealing rings occurs in them. Repair the cylinders and consider changing the brake fluid.

How to check the operation of the vacuum booster?

First, start the car and let it run a little to discharge the car. Press the brake pedal - in case of tight pressing, we can safely say that the amplifier or the hose is out of order. Now stop the engine and let it settle for a short time, after a while press the brake again.

Secondly, without turning on the engine, press the brake a couple of times in a row, this will allow the brake system to discharge and remove the pressure. Further, without releasing the brake pedal, start the car, in theory the pedal should begin to gradually descend, which indicates that the vacuum amplifier itself is working.

Take care of your safety. Follow and check the braking system of the car in a timely manner. If repairs are required, proceed with them immediately.

All spare parts for repairing the brake system can be found on the website "AUTOmarket Intercom" or in our storesspare parts for a vaz or a foreign car ... Delivery to any car service works.

A car with faulty brakes is a dangerous weapon that can lead to mass destruction. Various technical problems can bring the vehicle to a state of uncontrollability. At the same time, only a collision that has occurred with any other car, the nearest structure or pillars can stop a car for which everything has failed. In such a situation, even falling into a ditch cannot be ruled out. Although, if the driver is experienced and he is attentive to each malfunction, he will immediately notice such a defect as a soft brake pedal and take all the necessary measures to avoid the most unpleasant fatal accident.

Perfect brake performance is essential when driving.

If you do not pay attention to such a significant lack of the braking system, the car owner may soon face bleak prospects - you can either become a victim of an accident yourself or be the culprit. And all just because of their own inattention or laziness. The timely diagnostics will allow you to remove all defects and replace the brake fluid, if necessary. The car enthusiast should feel the state of the brake pedal and react clearly to any deviation, since a working device will provide a quiet ride.

The brake pedal is "in the floor" - what to do?

If the brake pedal has become soft, that is, it began to fall significantly, - you should immediately check the entire brake system of the machine. Most likely, you will need diagnostics at a service center and its further repair.

The main thing is to contact the service center in time

It is important to remember that all malfunctions of this kind are fraught with their consequences. Defective brakes can fail while driving, probably, this can happen on a busy avenue, only a collision with some other vehicle or structure can stop such a car even at an average speed. If the brake pedal is easily depressed, there may be several reasons:

• the brake cylinder is not able to retain fluid and the corresponding pressure, there may be significant wear on the cuffs and rubber gaskets;
• the wrong fluid has been added to the brake tank;
• there are malfunctions with pads or discs;
• defects are traced in the operation of the vacuum pump;
• the traction pedals may rust.

Problems with the braking system are clearly indicated by the presence of vibration, hissing and tapping on the pedal when it is pressed.

Solving the soft pedal problem

So, the most common problem is a bad, low-quality fluid, since it may not be suitable for a certain car model, hoses may gradually corrode. Rubber elements are not able to withstand such a liquid, they delaminate, increase in diameter, which leads to a loss of tightness. If the brake pedal has become soft, it is best to go through diagnostics of the entire brake system, and defective elements.

The second reason is rust in the rods. There is only one way out - their complete replacement. It is possible to determine such a malfunction by holding the brake pedal, if it stays at the bottom and has to be “lifted” with improvised tools - there is definitely a problem in the rods.

The incorrect clearance that is located between the pedal and the cylinder is also detected by pressing the pedal. If pressing immediately occurs easily and smoothly, but at the end the applied force has to be doubled - most likely, the gap is incorrectly adjusted, the pressure present does not allow normal lowering and raising of the pedal. We'll have to adjust and bleed the brakes.

Air locks are also troublesome due to hose wear and tear and breakage in the vacuum pump. The brake cylinders lose some of the pressure, the pads do not move apart, and therefore cannot be pressed against the disc. You should check the pads for the degree of availability.

Stiff brake pedal - what to do?

There may be several reasons why the brake pedal has become firm. It is worth noting that there are traditional malfunctions that are typical for most cars, and specific ones that can only occur in some models of the brake system.

A hard brake pedal may appear due to the following reasons:

• a blockage in the air filter. The malfunction disappears after replacing the filter;
• valve sticking. You can fix everything by replacing the amplifier;
• damage to the diaphragm. The firm brake pedal will disappear after replacing the booster;
• malfunction of the tip in the vacuum amplifier. The tip will need to be replaced;
• poor-quality functioning of the check valve, you will have to change the valve;
• leakage, which causes the flow of fuel;
• defects in the hose from the amplifier to the manifold. It is best to replace the hose. The condition of the hose should be checked regularly. It functions normally only in a cold state, any overheating makes it flexible and elastic, which may cause delamination in the future. They reduce throughput and cause brake problems.
• loosening the fastening of the rubber hose on the fitting. It is treated by tightening the fastening clamp.

A tight brake pedal can result from swollen o-rings in the cylinders. Such a defect occurs after fuel and lubricants begin to ooze onto the surface. In this case, you will have to repair the brake cylinders and.

Of no less concern is the malfunctioning of the vacuum booster. It should be checked regularly; for this, before starting the power unit, press the pedal; if the brake pedal is pressed tightly, there is a malfunction in the amplifier or hose.

In order to more specifically identify a place with a malfunction, press the pedal again 5 minutes after turning off the engine. If the brake pedal becomes tight a second time, the booster valve is faulty.

Conclusion

Many problems that a tight or soft brake pedal brings to the car owner can be solved by yourself. However, this will require a "baggage" of certain knowledge and skills, if there is uncertainty in one's own abilities, it is better to send the car for a full diagnosis to a service center.

If the brakes still fail, then the hope for engine braking

Even despite the seeming foresight and serviceability of the car, the braking system can fail while driving, you can get out of this situation by braking with the engine. After a complete stop, you need to call a tow truck, as a faulty braking system can present new surprises.

Details Published: 06/13/2012 05:26 AM

Studies are continuing on the most classic defects in the braking system of a machine, which are determined using a brake test stand. Such a component brake control, like a taut and soft brake pedal (problems and solutions), includes a pair of states of its position. The first is regular, when the pedal is pressed without noticeable changes, without failures, jumps, without the application of special efforts, and so on. The next two circumstances of the pedal position are unpleasant for the driver, and which cause particular excitement.

It is said about when a tight brake pedal or, on the contrary, very soft brakes. In this setting, when the brake pedal stops working normally, the driver's excitement is justified. This suggests that there are any defects, and the brake system needs to be repaired. At the same time, without shelving.

There may be a couple of reasons why the brake pedal suddenly became tight, and not necessarily they are traditional and characteristic of all types and brands of brakes. Despite this, the key, most common causes, and ways to eliminate them, are considered.

Most of the defects, due to which the brake pedal becomes taut and soft, are "guilty": either the cryogenic amplifier or the main brake cylinder. The increase in effort when pressing the brake pedal is carried out due to the fact that the air filter of the cryogenic amplifier has become dirty.

In this case, you need to change the air filter; seizes the valve body in the cryogenic amplifier. Exit - change of the cryogenic amplifier; the baffle of the cryogenic amplifier is broken.

Change the cryogenic amplifier; defective tip of the cryogenic amplifier - a tip change is needed; the opposite valve in the cryogenic amplifier is jammed or does not work, the opposite valve needs to be replaced; the check valve of the cryogenic amplifier is faulty (leaking), which makes it possible to get fuel into the cavity of the cryogenic amplifier.

It is necessary to change the cryogenic amplifier complete with the opposite valve; the hose that connects the cryogenic booster to the intake manifold is broken, or the hose is loose on the fitting. The hose is changed, or the clamp is tightened. Learn more about the cryogenic brake booster hose.

His condition must be monitored regularly. Especially in the cool season. Until the hose is steamed, it remains harsh, and the brakes work normally. After a short operation of the engine, the hose heats up, becomes more elastic, and its throughput decreases. A question with the brake pedal may appear.

The sealing rings in the working cylinders are swollen. This can happen due to the penetration of fuels and lubricants into them, or the use of low-quality brake fluid. Repair of working brake cylinders, changing the brake fluid to the one recommended by the manufacturer.

Several methods for testing the performance of a cryogenic amplifier:

Start the engine. There is a vacuum in the system. Then the brake is pressed. A harsh brake pedal indicates a defect in the amplifier or hose. After stopping the engine, wait about five minutes without pressing the brake.

Concretization of the defect. Pressing the pedal. If the pedal turns out to be rigid as before, then, rather, a faulty valve of the cryogenic amplifier.
With the engine off, you should press the brake pedal a couple of times to clean up the discharge in the brake system. Without releasing the brake pedal, you must start the engine. If the taut and soft brake pedal (problems and solutions) goes down a little, then everything is fine with the amplifier.

A soft brake pedal can indicate several defects. Namely, there are a couple of reasons why the brake pedal has suddenly become soft. This effect can also be called: brake pedal failure.

Stiff and soft brake pedal (problems and solutions) have traditional reasons: "airing" of the brake system. Of course, you need to remove air, namely in the form of bleeding the brake system.

The reason for "airing" is possible: once the system is sealed or the lowest level of brake fluid in a wide reservoir; defect in the main brake cylinder: a defect in the working cylinder, for example, as a result of a sticking piston or a boil in the brake fluid. It is necessary to repair the brake cylinders, or change the brake fluid with a new one.