Anticorrosive- a protective agent against the formation of rust. Earlier we already, now we will touch on this topic in more detail.

Before applying anti-corrosion compounds, it is imperative to remove rust from any metal surface being treated. Typically, an anti-corrosion compound is used to prevent the formation of rust on a car.

In order to save money, you can make anticorrosive with your own hands, or you can buy it ready-made at a car service. At home, the remedy is effective, but its preparation takes a lot of time. When working with a self-produced anticorrosive, you should follow the safety rules and instructions for treating a car from corrosion, and we will talk about choosing a ready-made anticorrosive a little lower.

Types and features of anticorrosive

Anti-corrosion for cars can be made from aggressive chemical composition which can damage the paintwork of the vehicle. Depending on this, it is necessary to select the components of the solution in such a way that they safely eliminate corrosive deposits without damaging the coating.

Anticorrosive is applied to wheel arches, the bottom of the car, welding spots, and the trunk lid. Each anticorrosive composition contains particles that provide good adhesion. protective layer covers the metal and protects it from the effects of temperature extremes:

1. The bottom of the car is treated with a water-repellent composition, since condensation forms in these places.
2. In places of welding seams and loops, an anticorrosive agent with especially pronounced mechanically stable properties is applied. Since these areas are the most exposed to use, they wear out quickly. In addition to protective composition you can add anti-gravel, which will serve as a reliable shield from stones and fine dirt. Applying anti-gravity with your own hands is a fairly simple task.

What anticorrosive agent is better to treat the car with? Bitumen and wax are usually used as anticorrosive components. Such a base is ideally combined with zinc, bronze, various types rust retarders and material hardeners. There are anticorrosive agents based on paraffin and polymers with the addition of rubber, ebonite, silicone and even plastic.

The main feature of anticorrosive is the possibility of unlimited application of the composition to any car parts. A similar principle applies when painting and polishing a car. It all depends on how caring the car owner is. If you correctly apply the product to all elements, there will be no noticeable trace of rust.

The choice of anticorrosive for cars

Anticorrosive aerosol is considered the most ineffective agent against the formation of rust. Its use will only slightly strengthen the metal coating. Anticorrosive in spray cans is used for small rusty spots.

In order for the car to be reliably protected from oxidation, it is necessary to select compositions for specific parts: internal or external. For example, for the treatment of hidden cavities, anticorrosive is selected, which repels moisture well and allows air to pass through.

The outer surface must be covered with a protective agent that is resistant to mechanical stress: impacts of small stones, sand and dirt. If the composition is purchased from the manufacturer, then it is important to check the availability of the standard number, batch, storage period and conditions, instructions for safe work.

The video below provides an overview of anticorrosives and describes in sufficient detail how to choose an anticorrosive for your purposes and not overpay.

Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion

Rust treatment of a car is carried out in specialized car services, but this is also possible at home. The service station has everything necessary tools and components for high-quality manufacturing and application of anticorrosive.

Before you do the anti-corrosion treatment of the car yourself, you need to prepare tools and compositions for the protective mixture:

• "Cordon" is a vibration-absorbing mass necessary for treating a car from rust.
• "Body-950" - 400 ml of soundproofing solution is enough.
• Anticorrosive "Movil-NN" - 2.7 liters.
• Degreaser (acetone or white spirit).
• Cannon fat brown.
• Any protective agent resistant to mechanical damage.
• Adhesive sealant or any similar material for filling cracks in metal structures.
• Plasticine - 2 packs.

These ingredients are used to create a homemade anticorrosive, but for the workflow you will also need different brushes, a drill, napkins, a spray gun, screwdrivers (to remove particularly resistant rust), and protective gloves. Do-it-yourself anticorrosive sprayer can harm the skin of the hands, so it is important to ensure their reliable protection.

Preparing a car for anticorrosive

Preparatory work includes the following items:

1. Removal of insulation, soundproofing materials so that they do not interfere with processing.
2. Dismantling wipers.
3. Complete trunk cleaning.
4. Protection of the car interior from anticorrosive: it is necessary to put on tight covers on the seats and the pedal, through which the liquid slippery substance cannot penetrate.

After these works, the car must be thoroughly washed with warm water. The cleaner the car is, the better the anticorrosive treatment will be. Wash with pressure, directing a jet of water to especially dirty places. Then wash the entire surface of the car with soapy water, including hard-to-reach places.

In the end, you need to rinse the car well. Processing should be started only after the car has completely dried, not earlier. All drainage holes must be perfectly clean.

To provide access to the internal cavities of the car, you must use a drill. Drill diameter - 13.5 mm.

“It is advisable to make holes in the body where there are already technological ones, and only on a single-layer sheet. In places with corrosion, drilling is undesirable.

Anticorrosive: manufacturing and application

How to do anti-corrosion treatment? From a clean car, you need to remove the wheels and arched plastic protection, and only then proceed to applying several layers of the future anti-corrosion coating:

• The under-wheel area must be treated with a degreaser, and then with a soundproofing compound. 3-4 layers are enough with an interlayer interval, the main thing is to observe the complete drying of the previous sound insulator.
• Now to mix cannon fat, plasticine and "Cordon" in a metal container. The mixture must be heated in a water bath - placed in a container of boiling water. As soon as the composition turns black, it is necessary to turn off the fire. The resulting mixture must be applied with a brush on the bottom of the car. The layer must be thick.
• Anticorrosive agent "Movil-NN" needs to process all the screws of those parts that were removed. You can mount them in place only after 3 hours have elapsed from the moment the bottom of the car was smeared.

In order for do-it-yourself anticorrosive treatment to be successful, you need to follow several important rules:

• preparation for processing is just as important a part as applying anticorrosive;
• the composition of the protective mixture should include only professional products and the above ingredients; it is undesirable to use components based on the slander of acquaintances;
• conditions during processing must match the mode that is usually set in car services.

Treatment of internal cavities

How to treat a car with anticorrosive? For these purposes, you will need anti-corrosion agent and a spray gun with a flexible nozzle. The nozzle of the sprayer should be inserted deep into the cavity until it stops. Pulling the device back, you need to spray the protective composition without stopping.

The thinner the anticorrosive, the more often it should be sprayed. If anticorrosive drops begin to seep out of the hole, then the work has been done successfully. In the absence of such a phenomenon, it is necessary to clean the cavity with a metal nozzle, and then repeat the procedure again.

Helpful Hints:

• with absence technological holes you need to make them yourself, but very competently and in a minimal amount;
• if there are a lot of mechanical devices, electric drives, it is desirable to remove the casing completely;
• if processing is carried out in the internal cavities of the door, it is necessary to spray the material without removing the upholstery;

Anticorrosive on the bottom and arches of the car

When processing the hood and engine compartment it is necessary to cover the generator and the radiator, otherwise the slippery anticorrosive material that has fallen on them will cause the engine to heat up. Do-it-yourself anticorrosive of the bottom of the car must be applied to the hood cover and welding seams.

In the trunk, it is important not to miss the hidden seams. Here you can experiment with different nozzles in order to best clean rusted parts. A thin layer of anticorrosive should be applied to the bottom of the trunk and the rear walls of the lamps to prevent rust between the contacts. Processing the arches of the car with your own hands and the bottom is as follows:

First you need to remove the fenders. Then, on the bottom with a flexible nozzle, process:

• thresholds;
• crossbars;
• amplifiers;
• eyelets, inside the front suspension, levers;
• suspension springs;
• welding seams;
• fasteners, details;
• ball bearings;
• the inner part of the flanging;
• bottom surface.

In order for the material to be used sparingly, you can slightly increase the temperature of the anticorrosive to 30 degrees.

Car interior anticorrosive treatment

Work inside the machine can only be carried out after all foreign objects have been removed and the seats are securely covered. The fixation areas of the seat crossbars must be processed from the inside and outside.

The first - through the technological holes, the second - through the welds. The doorway is also subject to oxidation, so it is necessary to apply anticorrosive to the lower seams and seals. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the overhead guard.

In its place will be technological holes leading to internal details auto. In the same way, you need to insert the spray gun all the way and spray anticorrosive. When working with internal cavities, it is important not to exaggerate the amount of solution, otherwise it can get inside and stain the entire interior of the car.

Do-it-yourself car anticorrosive is a viscous, oily liquid and, moreover, difficult to wash. Once on the pedals, it will break the grip of the foot and the surface of the device.

Door processing

The internal cavities of the doors must be treated with anticorrosive. Electrical contacts it won't do any harm. The only thing is that if the nozzle is inaccurately inserted into the technological holes, it is possible to touch important elements and damage them.

The atomizer must be inserted slowly, without touching structural details: servos, wiring, audio systems. In the case when many mechanisms are located in the inner cavity of the door, it is possible to carry out processing using a short nozzle at the bottom of the door. A few rules when working with anticorrosive in the car door:

1. Providing access through 2 holes: next to the outer panel (above the lock) and at the bottom of the end 5 cm from the extreme level.
2. Using a long nozzle, it is necessary to process the welding seam under the window opening.
3. Using a short nozzle, spray the material on the rear end of the door, lock and internal seams.
4. If anticorrosive is applied to large vehicles, such as a pickup truck, van, then a hole should be made in the middle of the end. If the internal cavities are deep and more than 15 cm from the end of the nozzle, then another nozzle of a greater length must be inserted. The fact is that oil drops of anticorrosive do not pass further than 15 cm, but dust settles, which is not as effective as large drops;
5. The pressure of the material in the spray gun when processing the internal cavities of the doors must be at least 60 atm., Air - 7 atm.

Anticorrosive: effectiveness or futility

It all depends on the quality of the components used, compliance with the rules of spraying and work with repair equipment, the condition of the car and its operating conditions. In case of violation of the integrity of the coating of the machine, it is better to start restoration immediately to avoid metal oxidation.

Any anti-corrosion agent serves no more than 3 years, however, even a few months after treatment, “red” spots may appear. The main reason for their spread is unpleasant weather conditions and high humidity.

In the hot season, it is better not to use wax-based anticorrosives, because when high temperatures it starts to melt and spread over the car. Compounds based on bitumen, which cannot withstand severe frosts, behave in the opposite way.

In order for anticorrosive treatment to be really effective, you must not skip external operations:

• Using a special nozzle with a 45-degree bend, you need to go through the emblems, seals, mirrors, handles and locks.

Finishing repair work it is necessary to clean the car windows contaminated with stains, mount the wipers back, remove protective covers and nozzles from the pedals, rinse the handles, locks throughout the car.

If the overlay is dirty, it must be wiped well. Residual work - checking the cleanliness of the car interior is an important process, since excess anticorrosive on the surface of pedals, levers, door handles can lead to serious consequences.

Preferably use car shampoo to remove grease stains, and after washing, rinse the car well. After processing, the car must be constantly checked for education new rust to remove minor corrosion spots in time.

Video on working with anticorrosive

1. Bottom anti-corrosion treatment:

2. Car anti-corrosion treatment (two parts):

It doesn't matter what kind of anti-corrosion technology your car is treated with, over time, rust and some other oxidative processes will begin to appear.

The occurrence of corrosion is affected by the action of water, dirt, temperature differences and chemical elements from environment. To avoid problems in the future and increase the life of the machine, you should take care of protecting the body from external influences. The best way to deal with this is additional anti-corrosion treatment.

The most rust-prone area is the body bottom, it must be protected first. If you are going to take steps to save the body, you are in luck. In this article, you will learn how difficult the anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom of a car with your own hands is and how to carry it out.

A word about corrosion

Almost all metals on Earth rust. Depending on the specific material of your body, the unpleasant process can begin either very quickly or after many years of use. In any case, it is important to understand that corrosion is inevitable.

But if it has just begun or may begin, it is possible to significantly slow down and delay it by anti-corrosion treatment. The oxidation process itself can occur for three reasons:

• Chemical exposure is often carried out by water and oxygen, but due to the severe pollution of the atmosphere, more and more new ones are added to them. chemical compounds, which significantly accelerates the "eating" of the metal.
• electrochemical, in this case the reagents that are sprayed on the roads are to blame, sometimes even the asphalt itself.
• The mechanochemical nature of the occurrence of rust originates from mechanical damage, and then the rusting that has begun is accelerated by the above-mentioned oxidative processes.

Knowing these 3 reasons, it is necessary to minimize the impact of such factors on the bottom. The best way to deal with this will be anti-corrosion treatment.

Corrosion itself is also divided into types, according to the form of its occurrence:

• The mechanical appearance occurs due to impacts on the bottom of rubble, pebbles or stones during movement.
• Structural begins to arise due to welding work on the bottom of the body.
• Biocorrosive - active vital activity of microorganisms.
• Atmospheric, due to improper storage of the car.
• Slotted - in the narrow spaces of the bottom of the car under the influence of chemical elements.
• Contact - due to the combination of metals of different potential.
• The current form of rust appears in places that are constantly affected by high voltage.
• Electrolytic- action of moisture, non-electrolytic - action of oil drips and similar substances.
• Gas - rust on the elements of the exhaust system.

All the information above was presented for a reason, before starting anti-corrosion treatment, it is important to find out: in what areas and under the influence of what your bottom rusts. The choice of "anti-corrosion" will depend on this.

Important! Determination of the causes of corrosion is the basis of anti-corrosion treatment.

How to save the bottom on your own

Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom is not such a difficult task. It can be done without resorting to specialists. If you are completely convinced that you can handle it, you can start. It is important to know that this operation is carried out in three main stages:

1. Preparation for work.
2. Preparing the bottom and applying protection to hard-to-reach, hidden places.
3. Actually the processing of the bottom and arches.

Each of the stages of anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom will be described in detail below. You will need the following:

• 4-6 kg of mastic;
• 2-4 cans of "anti-corrosion";
• anti-corrosion primer;
• narrow and wide brush;
• tools for cleaning rust (sandpaper, metal brushes, a grinder with a nozzle, etc.);
• acetone or solvent;
• individual protection means.

Training

First of all, pick up or find a manual for maintenance your vehicle make and model. It is guaranteed to have all the information about the factory anti-corrosion treatment bottoms. Also, in most manuals there are schemes for applying protection, they indicate all hard-to-reach places, where it is also important to apply an anti-corrosion agent.

Next, go for a preview of the bottom. Raise it on a lift or inspect it in a special pit. Having carefully studied and identified all problem areas, determine the nature of the occurrence and type of corrosion. Select the most common.

How to make anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom of the car? It is at the last stage of preparation that you have to solve this issue. There are a lot of truly effective remedies that you need specifically for your case, depending on the type of corrosion.

Choose an anticorrosive agent, which is the name of a rust remover that will protect, ideally, from all types of oxidation. You will also need a couple of gas bottles of protective equipment.

Important! Of course, finding a tool that is suitable in all respects is unrealistic, so you can cheat. Take two anticorrosives of different properties at once and apply, alternately, both. Such protection will be the most reliable.

Preparation of the bottom and processing of difficult places

In order for the applied protective agent to work, it is necessary to properly prepare the bottom. To do this, wash all the dirt from the surface where you will apply the protection with a pressure of warm water. Wait until the car is completely dry. Then, using a metal brush, remove all pockets of corrosion and degrease the surface. Anti-corrosion primer must be applied to the places from which rust has been removed.

For processing hard-to-reach places (thresholds, racks, spars, etc.), use previously purchased aerosol bottles with anticorrosive. Under strong pressure, release the protective equipment to the required places.

Treatment

Only after carrying out the above operations is, in fact, the very anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom of the car. It should be done according to the instructions below:

1. Start applying anticorrosive mastic, the layer should be 1.5-2.5 mm thick. The main thing is not to apply too thick a layer, it will most likely peel off, and a thin one will not be able to protect. We take " golden mean». Average consumption protective equipment varies between 4-6 kg per car.
2. There must be at least two layers of mastic. The second is applied only after the first has dried - this is important.
3. Processing is desirable to be carried out in the following order: arches, all fasteners, suspension, engine compartment (internal) space, ball joints and everything else.
4. After application, let the bottom dry for about a day .

Important! Carefully study the instructions for use and work in accordance with it, otherwise the application may not be effective, and everything will have to be redone.

Often motorists ask: “how much does anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom cost?” There is no universal answer, it all depends on where you live and the car. On average: with your own hands - up to 5 thousand rubles (depending on whether you have equipment for work), at the service station - from 9 thousand.

Results

So the article has come to an end, it is worth noting that, using all our recommendations, anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom will become an easy task on its own. After spending it, you will make an excellent economic move, because better couple once to spend money on processing, than later to lay out a tidy sum to restore rotten "floors". Good luck on the roads!

Corrosion does not look either at the brand or at, and sooner or later it manifests itself in the form of rust, swelling paintwork or a completely rotten body part. Despite modern technologies designed to protect the metal, no one has yet been able to stop it. Water, dirt, temperature changes, mechanical damage, road chemicals slowly do their job.

The lower part is the first to suffer from such factors. But is it possible to somehow prevent corrosion? We will talk about this, and also consider what a car is and how to implement it on our own.

Can corrosion be avoided?

It is important to understand that any automotive metal will rust. For some, this manifests itself earlier, for others later, therefore, corrosion cannot be avoided. But it can be suspended by maximally protecting metal surfaces from environmental influences.

There are three types of body corrosion:

• chemical - an oxidative process caused by interaction with water and oxygen in the air;
• mechanochemical - corrosion caused by mechanical damage and the same oxidative processes;
• electrochemical - caused by exposure to water and aggressive components dissolved in it, used to combat road icing.

When these three types act on the metal at the same time, the corrosion process is much faster.

What is anti-corrosion treatment

Anti-corrosion treatment is a procedure during which body parts that are potentially exposed to harmful environmental influences are cleaned of dirt, rust and covered with a layer of a special protective substance. This solution can significantly slow down corrosion due to metal insulation. Of course, such a coating cannot last forever, so it must be updated every 3-5 years.

In many decent car dealerships, the treatment of the bottom of the car, arches and internal surfaces doors is included in the mandatory pre-sale preparation. If such a procedure is not provided, the machine will need to be processed by yourself. To do this, you can contact specialized services, which provide for the processing of the bottom of the car. Prices for such services depend on the type of materials used in the work.

You can also roll up your sleeves and do it yourself. It's up to you to choose. We will consider the latter option, but first let's figure out what this process is and what tools and materials will be needed for it.

Stages of anti-corrosion treatment

The anti-corrosion treatment process includes three main stages:

1. Body preparation.
2. Application of a protective layer inside hidden cavities.
3. Processing the bottom of the car and arches.

At the first stage, the surfaces are cleaned of dirt and rust, after which they are washed. hot water supplied under pressure. At the same time, all elements of the body are washed without exception. The car is then allowed to dry completely. Often, a jet of hot air is used to speed up this procedure. After that, the car is lifted on a lift and inspected. All foci of corrosion on the bottom are removed with a metal brush and degreased. Next, the surfaces are coated with anti-corrosion primer.

The second stage can be started when the car is completely dry. Processing of hidden cavities involves blowing a special anti-corrosion substance into the spars, thresholds, pillars, boxes and doors. Rust is quite insidious, it can begin to appear from the inside. Blow out the solution under pressure with a special gun.

Processing the bottom of the car is the most crucial stage. The lower part of the body is most susceptible to various kinds of damage. This is water, and mud, and reagents, and gravel. The protective coating on the bottom is applied in two stages, and re-application is carried out after the first layer has completely dried.

What is the bottom treated with?

Processing of the bottom and arches of the car can be done with a variety of materials on different bases. Let's look at the most popular of them.

• Bituminous mastic - a universal tool for treating the underbody of a car and wheel arches. Excellent adhesion to metal, resistant to gravel and low temperatures. Does not deform or peel off.
• Slate mastic - a solution for protecting the bottom and outer surfaces of arches. The mastic is based on bitumen, which forms a strong and elastic film on the treated surface.
• "Movil" is a popular and common mastic for processing the bottom of a car. It has excellent adhesive and moisture-displacing properties. Ideal for processing

Protective agent "Antishum"

A material called Antishum Prime is very popular among car owners, which allows not only to protect the bottom of the car from corrosion, but also to significantly limit the noise entering the cabin. It is made on the basis of purified white spirit, bitumen, synthetic resins, crumb rubber, anti-corrosion inhibitors with the addition of aluminum and zinc powder.

With this tool, the bottom of the car can be processed. "Antishum Prime" received the most positive feedback, especially in terms of stability and high soundproofing characteristics. Processing with this agent is also carried out in several layers, as a result of which an elastic and ultra-reliable coating is formed, which has the properties of a sound insulator.

Advantages of Antishum Prime:

• long service life (3-5 years);
• high wear resistance;
• provides high anti-gravel protection;
• significantly reduces the noise level;
• provides good thermal insulation.

Materials for processing arches

For arches, slightly different materials are used.

• Bitumen-rubber mastic - protective mass for arches and internal surfaces.
• Anti-gravel - a means for protecting areas most exposed to small stones flying out from under the wheels: arches, thresholds, etc. It is produced on a bitumen or rubber basis. The anti-gravel coating can even be painted in the desired color.

Underbody treatment: prices

The cost of preparing a car and its anti-corrosion treatment directly depends on the materials used and the category (size) of your car. On average, the price for the entire complex, including washing, drying, mechanical preparation and application of a protective coating, incl. and in hidden cavities, ranges from 4 to 9 thousand rubles.

You can also perform element-by-element processing by selecting only the bottom, arches, sills or other parts of the body.

If you do not have the ability or desire to pay money for work, "anti-corrosion" without special work can be made independently.

Means and tools for hand-made processing of the bottom

Processing the bottom of the car with your own hands can also be done. This process involves the use of such tools:

• about 5 kg of mastic;
• 4 cans protective agent(of your choice) for hidden cavities and hard-to-reach places;
• 2 paint brushes (wide and narrow) or a special gun for applying anti-corrosion coating with a compressor;
• drill or grinder with nozzles for cleaning rust;
• solvent;
• protective gloves.

Let's start processing

Processing requires the use of a lift, overpass or car pit, because most of the work is done from below.

We start with a thorough washing of the bottom and arches. When the car is dry, we begin to prepare, cleaning out visible rust spots with the help of special or grinders.

Next, degrease the surface to be prepared with a solvent and let it dry. After that, carefully apply with a gun or brushes protective covering without missing a millimeter. We blow everything out cavities bottoms with a can. We wait until the applied layer dries (5-10 hours). Complete drying of the mastic will occur only after 2-3 days. Only after this period the car can be used again.

1. For work, use only proven products purchased at specialized outlets.
2. Bottom processing should be carried out only in a well-ventilated area.
3. The temperature in the working room should not be lower than 10 ° C.
4. In no case should you apply the mastic in a thick layer - over time, under the influence of its weight, it will lag behind the metal.
5. Avoid contact with skin or eyes.

Any metal tends to rust, and it is always corroded regardless of the weather or season. Corrosion is the most dangerous enemy for a car, which sooner or later can appear on any car. This problem is quite serious and fortunately there is a solution. After all, if there is a problem with it, you need to fight it, especially since the materials allow it. There is only one way out of this situation - anti-corrosion treatment of the car. This treatment should be done because it can protect the hidden cavities of the car's welds, underbody, wheel arches, as well as the paintwork itself.

how to properly process the bottom of a car antique dealer.

Corrosion on the car can appear due to cracks, scratches, chips. Over time, such damage turns into a hotbed of corrosion, and if nothing is done, they develop into holes on the body or bottom. With this in mind, we came up with a way to avoid such a problem at an early stage. There are several main ways to combat corrosion:

body parts processing scheme

1. The passive method includes protecting the car body from rust in the form of mastics, which in turn are applied to the bottom of the car and protect it from stones and moisture. Mastic is made from resin, bitumen, rubber and other impurities, this distinguishes it from paints and varnishes. Some owners process a new car in addition to the factory one. Thus, forming a double protection and increasing the strength and durability of the protective layer. But such processing of the bottom requires re-carrying out in 2-3 years. Due to the fact that the mastic flies off and breaks with stones, gravel and other parts.

how to protect the bottom after welding

1. The transforming type of anti-corrosion treatment of a car is carried out by impregnating the centers of corrosion with the help of a special substance, which is based on varnish. Thus, rust treatment on a car does not allow it to spread, due to the created paint-like layer.

painful areas to be treated

1. The active method of car body treatment is based on a protective layer, which is highly resistant to corrosion. If rust has appeared on painted areas, this method is accompanied by painting.

We remove rust with our own hands

clean up rusty spots

As a rule, new cars very rarely require additional anti-corrosion protection, but unfortunately time spares no one and soon shows their time. weak spots. If buying domestic car, then practice shows that it is better to immediately process the car body. Factory anti-noise anti-corrosion protection does not completely protect the car from corrosion, but only covers the bottom of the car and wheel arches, thereby protecting the metal only from mechanical influences. The frequency of anti-corrosion treatment of the car body is directly related and depends on how and under what conditions the car is operated, as well as on the condition in which and with what preparations the previous treatment was carried out. But in any case, it is recommended to check the condition of the anti-corrosion coating at least once every two years, for the purpose of prevention. It should also be remembered that after the winter period, you should thoroughly wash the car in order to completely remove the remnants of chemicals that remain on the body after the winter.

how to wash the bottom of a car

All these compounds have a very bad effect on the car body. But even after a thorough washing of the car, it will be possible to notice and, if necessary, eliminate the defects that have appeared. Do not forget that body parts that have been changed after an accident or straightened also require anti-corrosion treatment. After all, if these works are not repaired, they will have to be repeated after a while.

apply anticorrosive

Anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom of the car is done using special materials, which form a protective film, very durable and elastic. It should be done on a completely clean or primed surface. The work itself is not complicated and has no secrets, so you can do the processing of the bottom of the car with your own hands just in the garage. The mastic is applied at home with a simple brush. And give it time to dry.

In addition to the bottom, the wheel arches are also very susceptible to corrosion. You can use the same materials as for the bottom, but there is a small exception. The wheel arches are constantly interacting with abrasive, these are ice, snow, sand, gravel and everything else that can fly out from under the wheels. If the arches are not properly protected, you can say goodbye to them. The first thing you can do is put fender liner, but now a new product has appeared on the market called " liquid fender liner". This material is applied to the surface of the wheel arches and reliably preserves them from all kinds of wear. The material itself is very durable and elastic. Also, its advantage is that it is not visible to the eye like standard fenders, and this is a salvation for some cars. It can be applied with a regular brush.

How to remove rust at home

processing under the wings

All cars have their hidden cavities. For example, it can be thresholds, seams, amplifiers, spars and much more. Access to them is possible only through special openings made by the manufacturer. Liquids for such parts in their consistency resemble engine oil, they penetrate well into all cracks and holes, in addition, they displace moisture, forming a protective film on the walls of the metal. most famous and a good remedy is Movil. You can buy it in any store, in any packaging. Such protection as the processing of car thresholds is made precisely by Movil and the material is applied by spraying into the holes.

processing inside the car

How does it happen full protection car from rust and what equipment for anti-corrosion treatment of cars should be used? The very first thing that is done is preparing the car for further work. In other words, it must be thoroughly washed. Then you need to inspect the car for defects or chips. By the way, to process the bottom, you need to remove the wheels in order to provide easy access to its elements. After inspection and if it is necessary to eliminate defects, anticorrosive is applied. At services, this happens by spraying the mixture under pressure. It will take about two days for the composition to dry completely. If at the service they announced to you how much anti-corrosion treatment of a car costs, but the price is too high for you, and the car needs to be processed after welding, do not be discouraged ... After all, everything can be done just at home.

If the welded seams of the car are, for example, on the floor inside the passenger compartment, then it is necessary to cover them with a special sealant for the seams. Such a sealant can be both painted and treated with other means, for example, mastic. It should be noted that domestic mastic is not very good, but if it is she who is still applied, then the surface must be primed initially, because it will not last long on metal and will peel off.

It is necessary to process the bottom of the car not only outside, but also inside

So, for do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of a car, you will need:

1. Metal brush or a special nozzle for a drill;
2. Chisel or sharpened screwdriver;
3. Tassels;
4. Compressor;
5. rust converter
6. Mastic;
7. Movil;
8. Sandpaper;
9. Priming.

During the preparation of the car, you need to thoroughly clean all areas that need to be processed. Remove all dirt, grease and rust. After that, the surface must be degreased, so that the anti-corrosion treatment preparations will hold on more reliably. You also need to remember that the surface is best washed under strong water pressure. It is desirable to add to the water detergent. After washing, wipe everything and wait until the surface is completely dry. You can also clearly see the whole picture and the consequences after the winter. If the paint is cracked or swollen, then you need to treat the paintwork of the car. With the help of sandpaper, special discs for the grinder to remove rust, you need to clean out all the flaws in the coating to the metal itself. After the surface has been cleaned, it is necessary to degrease it and apply a rust converter. If your car is already old, then there will be many defects. It is better not to spare money and call on the service to sandblast the car body. With this treatment, all rust, peeling paint and old mastic will be removed. And the process itself will save you time and effort.

After processing the parts, you can proceed to applying the primer. This can be done both with a brush and with the help of a compressor or ready-made soil in a spray can. After the primed parts have dried, mastic and other substances can be applied. The most convenient mastic for brushing is bituminous. It perfectly protects the body from salts and moisture, but is practically powerless in front of stones and sand. Also, such mastic is afraid of frost, in winter time maybe even enough light blow a pebble flying out from under the wheels so that a piece of mastic breaks off. Therefore, it is better to make another additional layer of anti-gravity, which is applied on top of the mastic. Liquid anti-corrosion agents should be used to protect interior body cavities such as door sills and other enclosed spaces. The most famous is Movil. He makes the processing of car doors, thresholds and other details. In order for it to be applied evenly, it should be applied under a pressure of approximately 6 atm.

The price of anti-corrosion treatment of a car directly depends not only on the dimensions of the car, but also on the treatment method. In addition to the methods described above, there are other types of body processing.

1. Cathodic protective protection of the car body against rust. This method

completely replaces the galvanized body. The metal is polarized by special device cathodic protective protection. After this treatment, the metal does not lend itself to oxidation, and therefore does not rust. With the help of such processing, even the most inaccessible places are protected.

1. Car body waxing. This protection includes corrosion inhibitors that protect the paintwork of the car. They are usually produced in liquid form. Wax must be applied to clean metal and after it dries, an elastic protective film. But also car waxing can be hot, cold and hard. Hot wax is diluted in hot water and then applied to the car body. Protects parts not only from dirt, but also from corrosion. Cold wax is rubbed into the surface of the paintwork. It also protects against damage, but the degree of protection is lower than that of hot. hard wax the most durable way of all types of waxing. It is enough to apply once every 4 months. It is best to wax the body in autumn and winter period. This will protect the paint and parts of the car. Waxing a car is the most simple method and the cost of car anti-corrosion treatment is the cheapest and easiest.

1. Anti-corrosion treatment of the car rast stop. This processing method is based on oil with a sufficiently high purification factor, the material penetrates very well into the most secluded places of the car and perfectly impregnates the details. Rast stop is translated as stop rust, the material mixes well with water, pushing it out and practically “grows” into the metal. This type processing all the time looking for moisture and displacing it from car parts, which is not typical for all types of mastics. Such treatment does not require careful preparation, the rust stop itself penetrates into the necessary cavities and seams, as well as into other places where corrosion begins. Among other things, the drug has a pleasant smell and does not require drying. Even if you just applied it to the car, you can safely sit down and drive and there will be no smell from the anti-corrosion treatment in the car. In addition, it is harmless to health.

Road chemicals, along with rain and snow, accelerate the process of oxidation of the metal from which the car is made. Moscow is no exception in this regard. Most often, factory rust protection lasts only a few years, or even less. Experienced drivers know perfectly well that anti-corrosion treatment is a proven and effective method extending the "life" of a foreign car or domestic auto. You can order anticorrosive cars in the RB-group service. We will definitely make the body of your "iron friend" resistant to rust! The guarantee for that modern technology using such ultra-efficient materials as anticorrosive agents Noxudol and Mercasol (Sweden).

Advantages of the materials we use

machine depending on weather conditions, time of use and driving style can rust with varying degrees of intensity. However, the “pain points” of a car traditionally include the bottom, hidden cavities and welds. Before starting work, RB-group specialists carefully evaluate the condition of the body and other elements for a clear selection of an anti-corrosion agent. Compositions of Noxudol and Mercasol are recommended to treat not only used cars, but also new cars. The use of these materials allows:

• significantly increase the working life of the main vehicle systems (brake, fuel, suspension, etc.);
• treat with anticorrosive the most inaccessible places. The car body has a complex configuration, so there are many such places;
• save the thresholds and rear panels of the car;
• reduce the level of vibration and noise in the cabin;
• ensure the normal operation of the lock mechanism and door hinges;
• reinforce wheel arches (liquid fender liner).

Anti-corrosion coating Noxudol and Mercasol slightly increase the weight of the car and last a long time.

The price of anticorrosive in our company depends on technical condition machine and its class.

The main stages of work on anti-corrosion treatment of a car

1. We carry out the preparatory process in several stages

Dismantling of fender liner, mud flaps, protective covers. The body of the car is thoroughly washed with water under high pressure. Using a foaming agent, we apply a washing solution (shampoo), which we wash off after a while, allowing the solution to soak in and work. Drying the car body with heat guns, the duration is 3-4 hours. Blowing out the body compressed air, to drive the remaining moisture from the seams and sinuses. Details that cannot be processed are covered.

2. Car cavity treatment

The treatment of hidden car cavities is carried out with preparations based on ML oils. These preparations contain a large amount of corrosion inhibitors, special oils and waxes, have a high ability to displace moisture, easily penetrate into all cavities and microcracks, effectively impregnate corrosion (rust), forming an elastic film with good adhesion.

All hidden cavities of the car body are processed with ML compounds: frame, floor reinforcements, welds, sills, spars, inner parts of the arches, etc.

3. Processing the bottom and wheel arches of the car

We apply an anti-corrosion preparation for the bottom of the car using a pump for high-viscosity materials, with the ability to create a pressure at the outlet of the nozzle of about 400 atm. Anti-corrosion agent for the bottom of the car has a high wear resistance, contains solvents based on bitumen, wax and resins. Provides high mechanical resistance and the ability to restore the coating in case of damage. Provides long lasting protection.

Prices for anticorrosive treatment in Moscow

The cost of services is presented in the table below. Call our service for more information current promotions and discounts!

Vehicle type	The cost of anticorrosive treatment, rub.
	Cavity treatment Noxudol 700	Car body treatment (bottom, arches, hidden cavities on the bottom of the car) Noxudol 900, 700	Complex processing (bottom, arches, hidden cavities) Noxudol 900, 700	Liquid fenders (anti-noise, protective treatment of wheel arches) Noxudol Auto-Plastone	Anti-noise, protective treatment of the bottom of the car Noxudol Auto-Plastone	Anti-noise, protective, complex car treatment (bottom, arches, hidden cavities) Noxudol 700 or Noxudol Auto-Plastone
Cars, up to 4 m	4 000	11 000	13 000	5 000	9 000	17 000
Cars, from 4 m	5 000	12 000	14 500	5 000	10 000	19 000
Crossovers, SUVs, minibuses	5 000	14 000	16 500	5 000	11 000	21 000

For consultations, calculation of cost and registration call by phones.