Suzuki CX4 ground clearance or clearance like for any other passenger car is an important factor on our roads. It is the condition of the road surface or its complete absence that makes Russian motorists interested in the clearance of the Suzuki SX4 and the possibility of increasing ground clearance using spacers or even reinforced springs.
To begin with, it's worth honestly saying that real ground clearance Suzuki CX4 may seriously differ from that declared by the manufacturer. The whole secret is in the method of measurement and the place of measurement of the ground clearance. Therefore, you can find out the real state of affairs only by yourself armed with a tape measure or a ruler. Official ground clearance Suzuki CX4 different generations differ depending on the type of drive and body type. Indeed, in addition to the new hatchbacks, SX4 sedans were also brought to the Russian market several years ago.
- Ground clearance Suzuki CX4 since 2006 - from 160 to 175 mm
- Ground clearance Suzuki CX4 4WD since 2006 - 190 mm
- Ground clearance Suzuki CX4 sedan since 2007 - 165 mm
- Ground clearance Suzuki CX4 since 2012 - 175 mm
- Ground clearance Suzuki CX4 since 2015 - 175-180 mm
- Ground clearance Suzuki CX4 restyling since 2016 - 180 mm
Some manufacturers go for the trick and declare the size of the ground clearance in an "empty" car, but in real life we have a full trunk of all sorts of things, passengers and a driver. That is, in a loaded car, the clearance will be completely different. Another factor that few people have in mind is the age of the car and the wear and tear of the springs, their "subsidence" from old age. The issue is solved by installing new springs or buying spacers under sagging springs Suzuki CX4... The spacers allow you to compensate for the spring sag and add a couple of centimeters of ground clearance. Sometimes even a centimeter in the parking lot at the curb plays an important role.
But do not get carried away with the "lift" of the Suzuki CX4's ground clearance, because the spacers to increase the clearance are focused only on springs. If you do not pay attention to the shock absorbers, the travel of which is often very limited, then self-modernization of the suspension can lead to loss of control and damage to the shock absorbers. In terms of cross-country ability, high ground clearance in our harsh conditions is good, but at high speeds on the track and in corners, there is a serious buildup and additional body roll.
Video measurement real ground clearance of the new Suzuki SX4 under engine protection.
On the back of the Suzuki CX4, a spring spacer is usually installed (see the photo below).
The front is a little more difficult, because there you have to tinker with the counter. In addition to installing spacers under the strut cushion, you will have to lengthen the shock absorber rod, otherwise the front suspension cannot be assembled. Photo of spacers with detailed dimensions below.
Front struts rod extensions.
Photos are clickable.
When designing a suspension and choosing the amount of ground clearance, any car manufacturer is looking for a middle ground between handling and cross-country ability. Perhaps the easiest, safest and most unpretentious way to increase clearance is to install wheels with “high” tires. Changing wheels makes it easy to increase the ground clearance by another centimeter. Remember that a major change in ground clearance can damage the CV joints of your Suzuki SX4. After all, "grenades" will have to work from a slightly different angle.
Stirred up the long-awaited rise of the car.
I got ready, prepared myself, and perfected everything I needed. sharpened all the miscellaneous, and extension cords and different-sized vrulki, weighed everything, calculated.
The most difficult thing was to align the spacers required in height.
I made 18mm on the backside. I put 11mm washers under the amortization, for the factory stroke of the stock, or close to the factory one.
In front of me, the spacers were calculated 26mm in height, taking into account the stem release due to the additional sleeve-nut screwed onto the stem thread. There are no drawings for this, I calculated and adjusted it in place. It came together exactly. The upper nut is completely tightened, the shock absorber itself works for impact without rebound, with a total weight of passengers over 300 kilograms, and in a pit, with one driver.
Why such a difference in the height of the spacers I have: -The rear of the car, I would say a little was battened down. This can be seen externally, and the muzzle often bites. I decided to correct the body with the difference in the height of the front and rear spacers. I didn’t bother with the stem extensions, because I thought that the springs had already left 67 thousand, they got tired, I’m not going to change them for new ones yet, so I don’t need the extra 20 mm of the stem extension extension. In my case, the emphasis was on the spring rate.
The total measurement of the removed front spring was 365 mm. That is, 5mm lower than the factory one, provided for the Japanese 2VD, + took into account the fatigue of the metal. in general, I added a 26 mm spacer, screwed in the wheel, for a larger stroke when pressing the rack (pit) and installed everything.
Just in case, I thought, if it is hard for the spring when driving, I will push it up to 20 mm in height. But everything turned out very well. the suspension is not stiff, no !. She became dense. Very subtle and moderately sensitive. Contrary to the fact that any car lift adds something, but loses in something, I will say this: - in the driving style, you don't have to add or subtract anything. It seems to me even more cheerful as it is now. My lifting can hardly be called an elevator, rather it is a return to the factory state, with a slight increase in ground clearance due to spring tension.
I post a photo of the car before lifting it (tape measure near the arch), as well as a photo from under the bottom, where you can clearly see how the lower levers are located.
And then a photo of the already raised car from the same angles. Please note that the wheels on the car are less than the required standard size-205/65/15.
If there were relatives-205/65/16, the height would be 15-20mm more.
Also a photo of the made spacer bushings and washers.
anyone if you are interested in what sizes and where you need to withstand, I can lay out sketches.
I also want to draw your attention to the fact that the Japanese 4vd and 2vd are different in the length of the rod stroke and the height of the spring.
Likewise, Hungarian 2vd and 4vd are different rack-mount and different spring.
In other words, if you put reinforced springs from 4vd on 2vd, then wait for working out in the bottom of the rack with rails, uneven road, small potholes.
I gathered a lot of information on sexics in terms of an elevator from the Cuzuki sx4 + fiat sedici website. For which I am grateful to the local boys from the bottom of my heart.
Today we will learn how to make do-it-yourself replacement of the front levers in a Suzuki CX4 car.
We lift the car, unscrew the wheels. Using a metal brush, we clean the metal part of the bolt securing the ball joint of the front arm to the steering knuckle, spray it with WD-40. With the head 17, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the ball joint of the front lever to the steering knuckle:
You can make it easier to remove the bolt with light hammer blows.
Unscrew the bolt with a 17 head:
If necessary, we facilitate the subsequent removal of the ball joint pin by very carefully opening the terminal with a chisel and hammer:
We unscrew the bolt of the front fastening of the suspension arm to the subframe with a head of 17:
Then the rear mounting bolt:
We remove the front lever, if necessary, carefully knocking out the ball joint pin from the terminal connection of the steering knuckle. Until we put the lever, we "drive" the thread, facilitating the subsequent tightening. We have new levers from Febest 0724-SX4RH (right) and 0724-SX4LH (left). Before installation, we lubricate all threaded connections with copper or graphite grease. Install the new front arm in place, starting with the rear mount (do not tighten). We install the ball joint pin into the terminal connection of the steering knuckle. If necessary, carefully drive through a wooden block:
We put the front mount of the lever in the place of its installation, you may need a support (transmission rack or something from the materials at hand). We tighten the bolt of the front fastening of the lever, but without tightening it to the end:
Using the transmission rack (or a support made of scrap materials), we bring the suspension to the working position. We substitute the rack under the ball joint
We tighten the bolt of the rear fastening of the lever. We tighten the bolt of the front fastening of the lever to the end. Using a head and a 17 key, we tighten the bolt that fixes the ball joint in the steering knuckle.
We put the wheel in place.
Video of replacing the front levers in the Suzuki SX-4:
Backup video how to replace the front levers in Suzuki c4:
