The operating mode of the engine is one of the main factors influencing the wear rate of its parts. It's good when the car is equipped automatic transmission or a variator that independently selects the moment of transition to the highest or low gear. On cars with “mechanics”, switching is done by the driver, who “spins” the engine according to his own understanding and not always correctly. Therefore, car enthusiasts without experience should study what speeds are best to drive at in order to maximize the life of the power unit.
Driving at low speeds with early shifting
Often, driving school instructors and old drivers recommend that beginners drive “tightly” - switch to top gear when reaching 1500–2000 rpm crankshaft. The former give advice for safety reasons, the latter out of habit, because previously the cars had low-speed engines. Nowadays, such a mode is only suitable for a diesel engine, whose maximum torque is more than wide range rpm than gasoline engine.
Not all cars are equipped with tachometers, so inexperienced drivers with this driving style should be guided by driving speed. Mode with early switching looks like this: 1st gear - moving from a standstill, transition to II - 10 km/h, to III - 30 km/h, IV - 40 km/h, V - 50 km/h.
Such a switching algorithm is a sign of a very calm driving style, which gives an undoubted advantage in safety. The downside is the increased wear rate of power unit parts and here’s why:
- The oil pump reaches its rated output from 2500 rpm. Load at 1500–1800 rpm causes oil starvation, especially suffer connecting rod bearings sliding (liners) and compression piston rings.
- Combustion conditions air-fuel mixture far from favorable. Carbon deposits are heavily deposited in the chambers, on valve plates and piston heads. During operation, this soot heats up and ignites the fuel without a spark at the spark plug (detonation effect).
- If you need to sharply increase engine speed when driving at the very bottom, you press the accelerator, but acceleration remains sluggish until the engine reaches its torque. But as soon as this happens, you engage a higher gear and the crankshaft speed drops again. The load is large, there is not enough lubrication, the pump pumps antifreeze poorly, which causes overheating.
- Contrary to popular belief, gasoline savings in this mode absent. When you press the gas pedal fuel mixture enriched, but does not burn completely, which means it is wasted.
Owners of cars equipped on-board computer, it is easy to be convinced of the uneconomical nature of the tight-fitting movement. It is enough to turn on the display to show instantaneous fuel consumption.
This type of driving greatly wears out the power unit when the car is operated in harsh conditions– on dirt and country roads, with fully loaded or a trailer. Owners of cars with powerful motors with a volume of 3 liters or more, capable of sharp acceleration from the bottom. After all, to intensively lubricate the rubbing parts of the engine, you need to keep the crankshaft at least 2000 rpm.
Why is high crankshaft rotation speed harmful?
The “slipper to the floor” driving style implies constant spinning of the crankshaft up to 5–8 thousand revolutions per minute and late shifting of gears, when the noise of the engine literally rings in your ears. What does this driving style entail, besides creating emergency situations on road:
- all components and assemblies of the car, not just the engine, are tested maximum loads during the service life, which reduces the total resource by 15–20%;
- due to the intense heating of the engine, the slightest failure of the cooling system leads to major repairs due to overheating;
- exhaust pipes burn out much faster, and with them an expensive catalyst;
- transmission elements wear out quickly;
- Since the crankshaft rotation speed exceeds normal speed by almost twice, fuel consumption also increases by 2 times.
Operating a car “to break” has an additional negative effect associated with quality road surface. Movement on high speed on uneven roads it literally kills the suspension elements, and in as soon as possible. It is enough to fly your wheel into a deep pothole and the front strut will bend or crack.
How to drive correctly?
If you are not a race car driver or a fan of hard driving, who find it difficult to relearn and change your driving style, then to save the power unit and the car as a whole, try to keep the engine operating speed in the range of 2000–4500 rpm. What bonuses will you receive:
- Mileage up to overhaul the motor will increase (the full resource depends on the make of the car and the power of the motor).
- Thanks to the combustion of the air-fuel mixture in optimal mode, you can save fuel.
- Fast acceleration is available at any time, you just need to press the accelerator pedal. If the revs are not enough, immediately shift to a lower gear. Repeat the same steps when moving uphill.
- The cooling system will function in operating mode and will protect the power unit from overheating.
- Accordingly, suspension and transmission elements will last longer.
Recommendation. On most modern cars, equipped with high-speed gasoline engines, it is better to change gears when the threshold of 3000 ± 200 rpm is reached. This also applies to the transition from high to low speed.
As stated above, dashboards Cars don't always have tachometers. For drivers with little driving experience, this is a problem, since the crankshaft rotation speed is unknown, and a beginner cannot navigate by sound. There are 2 options to solve the problem: buy and install on the dashboard electronic tachometer or use a table that shows the optimal engine speed in relation to the driving speed in different gears.
| 5-speed gearbox position | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 |
| Optimal crankshaft rotation speed, rpm | 3200–4000 | 3500–4000 | not less than 3000 | > 2700 | > 2500 |
| Approximate vehicle speed, km/h | 0–20 | 20–40 | 40–70 | 70–90 | more than 90 |
Note. Considering that various brands and modifications of machines have different correspondence to the speed of movement and the number of revolutions; the table shows the average indicators.
A few words about coasting down a mountain or after acceleration. Any fuel supply system has a forced idle mode, which is activated under certain conditions: the car is coasting, one of the gears is engaged, and the crankshaft speed does not fall below 1700 rpm. When the mode is activated, the supply of gasoline to the cylinders is blocked. So you can safely brake the engine at high speed without fear of wasting fuel.
Choosing the right camshaft should begin with two important decisions:
First, let's check how we define the operating RPM range, and how the choice of camshaft is determined by that choice. Maximum engine speeds are usually easy to isolate because they directly affect reliability, particularly when the main parts of the block are conventional.
Maximum engine speed and reliability for most engines
| Maximum engine speed | Expected working conditions | Expected service life with related parts |
| 4500/5000 | Normal movement | More than 160,000 km |
| 5500/6000 | "Soft" boost | More than 160,000 km |
| 6000/6500 | Approximately 120,000-160,000 km | |
| 6200/7000 | Boost for everyday driving/soft racing | About 80,000 km |
| 6500/7500 | Very "hard" street riding or "soft" to "hard" racing | Less than 80,000 km at street riding |
| 7000/8000 | Only "hard" racing | Approximately 50-100 runs |
Keep in mind that these recommendations are general guidelines. One engine can hold up much better than another in any category. How often the engine is accelerated to maximum speed is also very important. However, as general rule The following should be considered: the maximum engine speed should be below 6500 rpm if you are creating a boosted engine for everyday driving and require it reliable operation. These engine speeds are typical for the limits of most parts and can be obtained using valve springs medium effort. Therefore, if reliability is the main goal, then a maximum speed of 6000/6500 rpm will be a practical limit. While deciding on the maximum required rpm may be a relatively simple process, based in principle on reliability (and perhaps cost), the inexperienced engine designer may find determining the operating rpm range of the engine a much more complex and dangerous task. Valve lift, stroke duration and cam profile camshaft will determine the power band, and some inexperienced mechanics may be tempted to select the "biggest" camshaft available in an attempt to increase the engine's maximum power. However, it is important to know that maximum power Only necessary for a short time when the engine is at maximum speed. The power required from most boosted engines is well below maximum power and rpm; in fact, a typical boosted engine can "see" full opening throttle valve only a few minutes or seconds for a whole day of work. However, some inexperienced engine builders ignore this obvious fact and choose a camshaft more by intuition than by guidance? If you suppress your desires and make careful choices based on real facts and capabilities, you can create an engine capable of producing impressive power. Always keep in mind that the camshaft is very much a compromise part. After a certain point, all increases are given at the cost of power by low revs, loss of throttle response, efficiency, etc. If your goal is to increase the number Horse power, then make modifications that add maximum power by improving intake efficiency first, as these changes have less effect on power at low rpm. For example, optimize the flow in the cylinder head and exhaust system, reduce the flow resistance in the intake manifold and carburetor, then install a camshaft in addition to the above "set". If you use these techniques thoughtfully, the engine will produce the broadest power curve possible for your investment of time and money.
In conclusion, if you have a car with automatic transmission, then you need to be conservative when selecting the valve timing of your camshaft. Excessive valve opening time will limit engine power and torque at low speeds, which are essential elements for good acceleration and traction. If your vehicle's torque converter stops at 1500 rpm (typical of many standard transmissions), then a camshaft that produces good torque, although not necessarily maximum power, at 1500 rpm will provide good overclocking. You may be tempted to use a high stall torque converter and a long duration camshaft in an attempt to achieve best result. However, if you are using one of these torque converters with normal traffic then their efficiency at low speeds will be very low. Fuel efficiency will suffer quite badly. For an everyday car, there are more efficient ways to improve acceleration from low revs.
Let's summarize the basic elements of camshaft selection. Firstly, for everyday driving, maximum engine speed should be maintained at a level not exceeding 6500 rpm. RPMs exceeding this limit will significantly reduce engine life and increase the cost of parts. Although a "conventional" engine may benefit from having as much valve lift as possible, too much valve lift will reduce engine reliability. For all high lift camshafts, bronze valve guides are a necessary element to ensure long bushing life, but for valve lifts of 14.0mm or greater, even bronze valve guides cannot reduce wear to a level acceptable for normal applications.
The longer the valves are held open, especially inlet valve, the greater the maximum power the engine will produce. However, due to the variable nature of camshaft valve timing, if valve timing or valve overlap passes a certain point, any additional maximum power will come at the cost of low-rpm performance. Camshafts with intake stroke times up to 2700, measured at zero valve lift, are a good replacement for standard camshafts. For highly boosted engines, the upper limit of the intake stroke duration of more than 2950 belongs to a purely racing engine.
Valve overlap causes some torque loss at low rpm, however, these losses are reduced when the overlap is carefully selected for the specific application - from about 400 for camshafts standard engines up to 750 or more for special applications.
Valve opening duration, valve overlap, valve timing and cam angles are all related. It is not possible to adjust each of these characteristics independently on single camshaft engines.
Fortunately, most cam specialists have spent many years creating cam profiles for power and reliability, so they can offer a camshaft that's well suited to your needs. However, do not blindly accept what the masters offer you; now you have necessary information for a competent discussion of the features of camshafts with their manufacturers.
After all, the camshaft is one of the parts of the intake system. It must match with the cylinder head, intake manifold and exhaust system. Volume intake manifold and pipe size exhaust manifold must be selected to match the engine power curve. In addition to this, carburetor air flow rate, number of chambers, type of secondary chamber activation, etc. also have a noticeable effect on power.
Previously, when automatic washing machines were just coming into use, spinning clothes in them was especially pleasing to the owners. It's no joke - technology freed them from such a tedious process. Back then no one thought about how fast the drum rotates. The machine still did much better push-ups than a person. Now manufacturers are trying to make sure that what is squeezed out washing machine Linen could almost be hung in the closet right away. True, increasing the speed of rotation of the drum - the method by which they are trying to achieve this, in our opinion, is very doubtful. Let's try to figure out whether a washing machine needs “cosmic” speeds?
Spin in the washing machine: observe speed mode!
The final stage of washing - spinning - has always been one of its most difficult stages. As they say, “the last battle is the most difficult.” Women, who in our country, as a rule, did the laundry, called on their husbands and children for help at this stage: a heavy duvet cover alone cannot be wrung out.
Fortunately, times have changed. Now, in fact, none of the family members do laundry in the house. Preparing and sorting laundry does not count. The process itself is left to automation; a modern washing machine has taken up residence in our apartments.
We can talk for a long time about what programs and functions different washing machines have. price categories and manufacturers, how different they are from each other or, on the contrary, similar. Sometimes, on specialized Internet forums or even just on the subway, disputes arise about which programs a washing machine needs and which programs it can do without. All debaters, however, agree on one thing: without a spin cycle, an automatic washing machine would immediately lose its attractiveness.
Spin classes and technology
Washing machines according to their spin class are divided into 7 categories, which are designated by Latin letters A, B, C, D, E, F, G. The award of one category or another depends on the residual moisture content of the laundry, which is measured as a percentage. It is determined simply: dry laundry is weighed before washing, and after washing the wrung out (wet) laundry is weighed. The dry weight is subtracted from the wet weight, and the resulting difference is divided again by the weight of the dry laundry. The quotient is multiplied by 100 percent to obtain the desired result.
The residual moisture content of the laundry at spin class A should not exceed 45 percent. B-class allows residual humidity up to 54 percent, C up to 63, and D up to 72. Models that spin worse are now practically not found on sale.
It must also be said that you should not be “scared” of washing machines that have a spin class lower than A (these are the majority, by the way) the difference between classes A and B or even C although it looks significant in percentage terms, in practice it is not so great. Of course, with a C-class spin, it will take a little more time to dry the clothes, but the quality of washing (what a washing machine is actually needed for) will obviously not become worse.
But the spin class depends not only on the degree of residual moisture in the laundry. One of its criteria is also the number of revolutions that a washing machine drum can make in a minute. The more of them, the higher the chances of the manufacturer to proudly announce that the spin class of their unit is A. In most models offered on the market today, the speed is 1000 1200 per minute. However, there are units that “accelerate” to 1600, 1800 and even 2000 rpm (for example, the Gorenje WA 65205 model).
Is it good or bad? Are such “cosmic” spin speeds necessary, or will regular, “earthly” ones suffice? To answer these questions, it is necessary, first, to understand how the spinning process itself occurs.
In principle, it is not complicated at all. After rinsing is completed, the used water is drained using a pump. Then the spin itself begins. The drum speed gradually increases, the water from the laundry obeys centrifugal force, through the holes in the drum enters the tank, while the pump periodically turns on and it is removed into the sewer. Maximum speed the engine (and therefore the drum) reaches the end of the spin cycle, and only for a few minutes (usually no more than two).
Expert opinion
Returning to the question of the need for “high speeds” of drum rotation, it should be noted that until recently in Russia there was a strong opinion that what more revolutions per minute during the spin cycle the washing machine drum can perform, the better and more reliable the entire unit as a whole. Actually this is not true. In order not to be unfounded, we decided to turn to practitioners - specialists from one of the largest Moscow networks for repairing household appliances, “A-Iceberg”. Our questions were answered by Andrey Belyaev, manager of the major household appliance repair department, whose experience in this area is 11 years.
-Andrey Viktorovich, is it possible to say that the number of revolutions of the washing machine drum during spinning is indirectly an indicator technical excellence, greater reliability models, and therefore more long term her services?
No, there is no direct relationship between the number of drum revolutions, service life and reliability of the machine. Each model has its own service life established by the manufacturer, and he also assumes obligations for warranty service its equipment, produces spare parts. And even machines with 400 600 drum revolutions per minute (nowadays these are usually narrow and compact models) may well work for more than ten years. True, the service life announced by the manufacturer is also subject to revision. For example, at the Ariston company, the service life of machines decreased from 10 years to 7. However, the manufacturer did not provide any official explanations. But many experts believe that this is due to an increase in the number of complaints about the operation of units of this brand, and in essence this indicates a decrease in product quality and the manufacturer’s “safety net”. It is worth noting that a similar trend (decrease in quality) is now observed among many companies producing household appliances. This can be explained by the desire of some companies to reduce the cost of their products and make them available to a wide range of buyers. Because of this, many resort to purchasing cheaper components; as a result, quality suffers.
But aren’t units with high drum speeds equipped, for example, with reinforced bearings and other specially prepared components?
They do, but, alas, this does not lead to a significant increase in the working life of the same bearings. In principle, one can even say the opposite: the lower the number of revolutions, the longer some components of the washing machine can work, which is reflected in the service life of the entire unit as a whole. But still, I would like to emphasize once again that the service life of the washing machine and the number of drum revolutions during spinning are not directly related. Rather, how many years your “automatic laundress” will work depends more on the quality of the components. For example, since we are talking about bearings, some companies order them from Poland, but the quality of bearings from this country is worse than, for example, from Sweden, SKF. So it is advisable to choose a machine according to its configuration, and not according to the number of drum revolutions during spinning.
What number of revolutions puts a car into the category of “high-speed” units?
Today, these are considered models capable of spinning at a drum speed of more than 900 rpm.
Do washing machines have high speed drum rotation special devices to reduce unavoidable noise and vibration? And in general, how does a “high-speed” machine differ from a regular machine, except, in fact, the speed of rotation of the drum?
It differs, for example, in the presence of a processor board that allows the user to independently change the number of drum revolutions while setting up the washing program. In addition, the presence of reinforced shock absorbers and suspension springs. As a rule, more modern ones are installed on such models asynchronous motors. Recently, machines have generally appeared with a new type of motor - it is “directly” connected to the drum. This avoids belt drive, one of the main sources of noise during spinning. For example, LG already has such machines.
And yet, there is a direct relationship between the maximum number of drum revolutions and the spin class of the washing machine. The faster the drum rotates, the drier the laundry ends up, the lower its residual moisture, which means the higher the spin class. Where is the limit, how much more can you increase the rotation speed? 1600, 1800, 2000, maybe 2500 rpm is ideal?
You cannot increase the drum speed indefinitely. If you do this, the linen will simply tear: microscopic holes will turn into small ones, small ones into large ones, folds on synthetics can become creases
What is the optimal speed?
More than 1000 rpm is not necessary. Anyway, for washing wool, silk, and delicate fabrics, the limit is 500 rpm. Synthetics cannot be spun at speeds exceeding 900 rpm (this is the maximum!). For some things, spinning is generally contraindicated. As for the notorious residual moisture of the laundry, if you compare it at 500 and 1000 rpm, the difference will be significant, and at 1000 and 1200 rpm, it is almost unnoticeable. Residual humidity of 45% or less (which some manufacturers strive for) is achieved by complex and expensive technical solutions.
In which type of machine is it easier to “organize” high spin speeds: front-loading or vertical loading?
On the one hand, the reliability of “vertical” washing machines is theoretically higher than that of “frontal” ones. This is explained by the fact that in them the drum is fixed on two sides, and not on one, like in front-loading devices. Naturally, this affects the service life of other parts, for example bearings, which in “vertical” devices are “spaced” on different sides (in accordance with the drum mounts). But on the other hand, the level of vibration during spinning in such washing machines is generally higher due to the design features. Therefore, now there is no particular difference between the types in which one is more suitable for spinning at high speeds.
Is there any alternative methods spinning clothes?
It’s difficult to call them alternative; rather, it’s a symbiosis of methods in which you can spin the laundry at a “sane” drum speed, and then dry it using a dryer or washing machine with dryer. But there are some downsides. For example, there may simply not be enough space to install a dryer. After all, the bathrooms and kitchens in many people’s apartments are not very large, and not everyone wants to install such a unit in the hallway or living room. Washing machines and dryers are distinguished by their small capacity. As a rule, you can dry no more than 3 kilograms of laundry in them, and considering that you can usually wash 56 kilograms, it turns out that the drying process will stretch into two stages, which means additional time and electricity consumption. By the way, many drying machines generally do not use electricity very economically. Basically, their energy consumption class is higher than C. In addition, you need to know that laundry that is constantly dried by “machine” wears out faster. This happens because no matter how hard manufacturers try, no matter how they improve the drying process, fabric fibers are not always heated evenly. In some places, banal overheating occurs, the item dries out and the fabric becomes thinner.
Conclusion
Well, it seems to us that now everything, as they say, has fallen into place. The manufacturer’s desire to capture the buyer’s imagination is understandable. After all, equipment must be sold to make a profit. But the catch is that in the process of automating washing, almost everything has now been invented that allows modern development technology. There is no need to wait for breakthroughs and revolutions yet. So “poor” companies producing household appliances have to come up with something out of nothing in order to attract buyers to their new models. “High-speed” spinning is just from this series.
We hope that those who previously paid attention to this parameter - spin speed - when buying a washing machine, will reconsider their approach after reading our material. Of course, we do not encourage you to not be at all interested in how the machine spins. But it’s certainly not worth chasing “centners per hectare” with high drum speeds during spinning. Rest assured, 1000, maximum 1200 rpm is enough for high-quality spinning of terry robes, sheets and towels. We do not recommend squeezing everything else at such speeds.
There is, of course, also such a thing as prestige. For some, it is especially important that everything is better for them than for others. But believe me, if you buy a Swiss Schulthess washing machine (for example, the Spirit XL 1800 CH model) for 75,000 rubles, it will amaze the imagination of your neighbors and friends with its cost alone, and, perhaps, its design. Of course, you can squeeze out something unnecessary at a speed of 1800 rpm, but only if you really don’t need it.
In general, the choice, as always, is yours. We just want it to be meaningful.
Almost every driver is well aware that the life of the engine and other components of the car directly depends on the individual driving style. For this reason, many car owners, especially beginners, often think about what speed is best to drive at. Next, we will look at what engine speed you need to keep, taking into account different road conditions while operating the vehicle.
Read in this article
Engine life and speed when driving
Let's start with the fact that proper operation and constant maintenance optimal speed engine allows you to achieve an increase in engine life. In other words, there are operating modes when the motor wears out the least. As already mentioned, the service life depends on the driving style, that is, the driver himself can conditionally “adjust” this parameter. Please note that this topic is the subject of discussion and debate. More specifically, drivers are divided into three main groups:
- The first include those who operate the engine at low speeds, constantly moving “pull”.
- The second group includes drivers who only periodically rev up their engine to above-average speeds;
- The third group is considered to be car owners who constantly maintain the power unit in a mode above medium and high engine speeds, often driving the tachometer needle into the red zone.
Let's take a closer look. Let's start with driving at the "bottoms". This mode means that the driver does not raise the speed above 2.5 thousand rpm. on gasoline engines and holds about 1100-1200 rpm. on diesel. This driving style has been imposed on many since driving school. Instructors authoritatively assert that it is necessary to drive at the lowest speeds, since in this mode the greatest fuel economy is achieved, the engine is least loaded, etc.
Note that during driving courses it is advised not to turn the unit, since one of the main tasks is maximum safety. It is quite logical that low speeds in this case are inextricably linked with driving at low speeds. There is logic in this, since slow and measured movement allows you to quickly learn how to drive without jerking when changing gears in cars with a manual transmission, teaches a novice driver to drive in a calm and smooth manner, provides more confident control over the car, etc.
Obviously, after receiving driver's license This style of driving is further actively practiced on own car, developing into a habit. Drivers of this type they begin to get nervous when the sound of a revved-up engine begins to be heard in the cabin. It seems to them that increased noise means a significant increase in the load on the internal combustion engine.
As for the engine itself and its service life, too “gentle” operation does not add to its service life. Moreover, everything happens exactly the opposite. Let's imagine a situation when a car is moving at a speed of 60 km/h in 4th gear on smooth asphalt, the revolutions, say, are around 2 thousand. In this mode, the engine is almost inaudible even at budget cars, fuel consumption is minimal. At the same time, there are two main disadvantages in such a ride:
- There is almost no possibility of sharp acceleration without switching to downshift, especially on "".
- after changing the road terrain, for example, on inclines, the driver does not switch to a lower gear. Instead of shifting, he simply presses the gas pedal harder.
In the first case, the motor is often located outside the “shelf”, which does not allow you to quickly accelerate the car if necessary. As a result, this driving style affects general security movements. The second point directly affects the engine. First of all, driving at low speeds under load with the gas pedal pressed hard leads to engine detonation. This detonation literally breaks the power unit from the inside.
As for consumption, there is almost no saving, since pressing the gas pedal harder overdrive under load causes enrichment fuel-air mixture. As a result, fuel consumption increases.
Also, driving “pull” increases engine wear even in the absence of detonation. The fact is that at low speeds the loaded rubbing parts of the engine are not sufficiently lubricated. The reason is the dependence of the performance of the oil pump and the pressure it creates motor oil at the same engine speed. In other words, plain bearings are designed to operate under hydrodynamic lubrication conditions. This mode involves supplying oil under pressure into the gaps between the liners and the shaft. This creates the necessary oil film, which prevents wear of the associated elements. The effectiveness of hydrodynamic lubrication is directly dependent on engine speed, that is, the higher the speed, the higher the oil pressure. It turns out that with a heavy load on the engine, taking into account the low speed, there is a high risk of severe wear and breakage of the liners.
Another argument against driving at low speeds is the strengthened engine. In simple words, with increasing speed, the load on the internal combustion engine increases and the temperature in the cylinders increases significantly. As a result, part of the carbon deposits simply burns out, which does not happen with constant use at “lower” levels.
High engine speed
Well, you say, the answer is obvious. The engine needs to be revved up more strongly, as the car will confidently respond to the gas pedal, it will be easy to overtake, the engine will be cleaned, fuel consumption will not increase so much, etc. This is true, but only partly. The fact is that constant driving at high speeds also has its disadvantages.
High revolutions can be considered those that exceed an approximate figure of about 70% of the total number available for a gasoline engine. The situation is slightly different, since units of this type are initially less revving, but have a higher torque. It turns out that high speeds for engines of this type can be considered those that are behind the diesel torque “shelf”.
Now about the engine life with this driving style. Strong engine spin means that the load on all its parts and lubrication system increases significantly. The temperature indicator also increases, additionally loading. As a result, engine wear increases and the risk of engine overheating increases.
It should also be taken into account that at high speeds the requirements for the quality of engine oil increase. Lubricant must provide reliable protection, that is, meet the declared characteristics of viscosity, oil film stability, etc.
Ignoring this statement leads to the fact that the channels of the lubrication system when constant driving At high speeds they can clog. This happens especially often when using cheap semi-synthetics or mineral oil. The fact is that many drivers change the oil not earlier, but strictly according to the regulations or even later. As a result, the liners are destroyed, disrupting the operation of the crankshaft and other loaded elements.
What speed is considered optimal for the engine?
To preserve engine life, it is best to drive at speeds that can be considered average and slightly above average. For example, if the “green” zone on the tachometer suggests 6 thousand rpm, then it is most rational to keep it from 2.5 to 4.5 thousand.
In the case of naturally aspirated internal combustion engines, designers try to fit the torque level within this range. Modern turbocharged units provide confident traction at lower engine speeds (the torque plateau is wider), but it is still better to rev the engine a little.
Experts say that the optimal operating modes for most engines are from 30 to 70% of maximum number revolutions when driving. Under such conditions power unit minimal damage is caused.
Finally, we’ll add that periodically it is advisable to spin up a well-warmed and serviceable engine with quality oil by 80-90% when driving on a flat road. In this mode, it will be enough to drive 10-15 km. Note that this action does not need to be repeated often.
Experienced car enthusiasts recommend revving the engine almost to maximum once every 4-5 thousand kilometers traveled. This is necessary for various reasons, for example, so that the cylinder walls wear out more evenly, since with constant driving only at medium speeds, a so-called step can form.
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