The vast majority of portable device malfunctions are caused by their owners. For example, a broken screen on a phone is clearly not a factory defect. Careless operation of equipment leads to the fact that devices often fall and break. Sometimes the casing is damaged, but the glass screen in the phone is one of the most fragile elements, so it is he who suffers in the first place.

Damage characteristic

To assess the degree of damage, you should first check the gadget for performance. If the device reacts to movements, shows data, plays a sound and does not glitch, then we are talking only about glass damage. Otherwise, more serious problems should be stated, the main of which is the breakdown of the screen. The smartphone display consists of glass and a matrix to which the board is connected. The failure of the matrix does not allow the use of technology - all that can be seen is a black screen.

Broken glass allows you to use the phone for the time being, since the growth of cracks over time will not make it possible to use the gadget normally, as it will be inconvenient. And the appearance of such a smartphone will be very pathetic. More serious problems arise when the loop breaks or other components are damaged. In this case, additional repairs are added to the replacement of the phone screen.

Can the screen be repaired

If we talk about repairing the display, in this case we can only talk about glass repair, and even then only for the period that is necessary to make a decision about its replacement. In order to use a phone with a broken sensor, it is necessary to properly glue the touchscreen so that the cracks do not grow, and the fragments do not fall out and cannot injure the user.

For this, adhesive tape or scotch tape is used, with the help of which the glass is hermetically glued, thus creating its integrity. In this case, the convenience of using a mobile device will depend entirely on the extent of the damage. If the defect is located in one of the corners and is small, the interference during navigation will be minimal, in all other cases, the operation of the equipment will be pretty annoying.

To replace the glass (and this will be the most correct solution), it is necessary to carefully remove the old sensor and install a new one, which must also be purchased correctly. It is best to contact a service center that repairs phones, where specialists will do everything themselves, and you will receive an absolutely serviceable device.

If the device does not respond to user actions, it is necessary to change the screen. The matrix of a smartphone has a very complex device, so there is no point in repairing it in case of mechanical damage - it is better to buy a new one.

In order to qualitatively replace the phone screen, you need to call a wizard, for which it is best to contact a reliable service center. The most qualified specialists who have passed a strict selection work in such organizations, therefore the company always provides a guarantee for repairs.

It is not recommended to replace the display on a smartphone by yourself, because without the proper experience and knowledge, you can damage the device very easily. The fact is that we are talking about very small in size, but vital for the phone details, many of which must be removed when replacing the screen. In addition, you will have to deal with disconnecting the loops, the fastening of which will also be a complete mystery to the inexperienced user.

The replacement of the matrix is ​​carried out with special tools, which a priori do not have in an ordinary person. Does it make sense to purchase professional tools for a one-time repair? The services of a master will be cheaper. In order to properly repair the phone display, the wizard almost completely disassembles it and checks for possible damage to other parts. Timely identification of problems will save your smartphone from accidental breakdowns in the future.

When ordering a repair at a service center, the user usually receives free advice on how to use the phone correctly and take proper care of it so that the device works smoothly for a long period of time. One of the measures that will help protect your phone's screen and body from shocks is to purchase a protective case. This element is inexpensive, but, as practice shows, it is very effective.

Also, a service center specialist will optimally configure the phone so that it uses the charge rationally. The wizard will show the user how to do this, so that in the future the owner of the smartphone can make such a setting on his own. A specialist will tell you under what conditions it is best to store your phone so that it does not overheat or be exposed to low temperatures. All tips and tricks should be taken into account, as they can significantly extend the life of the gadget.

A lot of people have a hammer drill, and everything is fine as long as it works. But what to do if it breaks down? What to do in this case and how to fix it?

Figure 1. Punching device.

To answer these questions, you need to know what this tool consists of and what are the typical malfunctions that may appear during breakdowns of the hammer drill.

Learn the main parts of this tool and how to troubleshoot various problems with this type of drill (Fig. 1).

The main elements of the punch

The tool consists of the following main parts:

To determine the breakage, you need to disassemble the puncher.

1. Collector electric motor. Depending on the model of the instrument, it can be positioned horizontally or vertically in the body.
2. The hammer mechanism is the main part of the rock drill. It can be performed electromechanically or pneumatically.
3. The vibration damping system is a shock absorber, usually consisting of a counterweight spring and rubber pads on the drill handle.
4. Electrical circuit for changing the speed of rotation of the output shaft, actuated by pulling the trigger of the tool.
5. Frame. It is usually made from metal (aluminum) and plastic.
6. Safety clutch. It stops the rotation of the punch chuck when the tool gets stuck in the hole. Two types of such devices are used: spring-cam and frictional.
7. Reducer. It consists of several gears.
8. Punch chuck. The working tool is clamped in it.
9. Power cable with plug.

These parts can be damaged if the rock drill breaks down. Bearings may also fail. Sometimes it is necessary to lubricate the tool parts.

Back to the table of contents

How to start a hammer drill repair?

Any, even the smallest, failure in the operation of the unit should become a signal for its owner to inspect the tool and its possible repair. You need to worry about the appearance of symptoms such as:

1. In the operating mode, the instability of work is manifested;
2. Unclear sounds appear when the instrument is turned on.
3. The hammer drill does not work for no apparent reason.
4. A pungent smell of burning appeared.

To quickly determine the cause of the breakdown, you need to disassemble the unit. This is done in stages:

1. From the top of the tool, remove the rubber tip, washer and spring, and then the ball.
2. Unscrew the screws that hold the body parts and remove the rubber pads for the handles.
3. It is necessary to disconnect the stator wires and remove the brush holder.
4. To remove the switch, you must separate the housing and the gearbox so that there is a sufficient gap between them.
5. The tool is carefully clamped in a vise in a vertical position, and all the details of the hammer are taken out of it one by one and the body is cleaned from dirt (dust).

Back to the table of contents

Punch self-repair technology

In most cases, the repair is reduced to replacing the broken parts of the tool. These include such parts as:

In the event of a power outage, inspect the power cable and all wire connections.

• gears of the reducer;
• brushes and engine anchor;
• starters and switch;
• bearings;
• power cable with plug.

A more serious breakdown is a breakdown of the winding, which can only be eliminated by rewinding the armature and stator of the hammer drill. It can be determined by measuring the winding resistance with an autometer and establishing the presence of a short circuit between the steel core of the armature (stator) and the winding terminals. In this case, take the tool to a service workshop. In order not to go to such an extreme, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the unit from dust and change the lubricant every two weeks.

Another type of malfunction is brush wear. You can only replace them. The same method is used to replace the mechanical elements of the tool - mode switches and switches.

Another weak point is the punch boot. It cannot be repaired and therefore this element must be replaced with a new one.

In the event of a power failure, inspect the power cable, and, if there is no visible damage, ring it with an autometer. If a break is found, then you can determine its place and eliminate it by connecting the broken ends of the wire. If this is not possible, then you will have to buy a new cable from the store.

Problems can also arise in such a part as the punch chuck. This malfunction can be detected if it became noticeable to the eye that its rim constantly began to slow down its rotation. Then you need to remove the old part and buy a new one in the store.

Poor lubrication or lack of lubrication can be the cause of unstable tool performance. Make sure that the oil level in the pan is at the correct height. It is necessary to periodically lubricate the intermediate shaft and gears of the gearbox.

If the bearings are out of order, then they must be replaced with new ones.

This can happen due to drying out of their grease or overheating and seizure of these elements.

Tools and materials needed to repair a hammer drill:

• oil for lubrication;
• purchased parts (brushes, chuck, etc.);
• insulating tape;
• avometer;
• vice;
• screwdriver and pliers.

To repair a hammer drill yourself, you need to know that it basically comes down to replacing broken parts. Some of them, such as the power cable, can be repaired by yourself.

But if the breakdown is serious, then it is better to contact a service center or buy a new tool.

Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair is often economically justified. On the one hand, for example, a new motor-fan (see below) for an inexpensive Samsung or LG can be bought for less than 1,500 rubles, and rewinding a burned-out one will cost more than 3,000; replacement of bearings from - 1200. That is, it turns out to be more profitable to replace the entire assembly unit with your own hands, without delving into the mysteries of technology. And unfit according to the scheme "How much do you want?" - "How much you give" will be willingly taken for spare parts by individual masters. On the other hand, very many malfunctions of vacuum cleaners, for the elimination of which the service will count from 500, can be eliminated in just minutes at home.

The purpose of this article is to tell readers what and how you can fix it yourself in a vacuum cleaner, how to determine the location and nature of the problem based on external signs, how to get there, and what and how you need to do there to make the vacuum cleaner come to life. And what shouldn't be done to keep things from getting worse. Let's take the repair of a Samsung vacuum cleaner as a basis - they break down more often than others from careless use. But if your brand is different, it doesn't matter - all vacuum cleaners are generally arranged in the same way and the methods for their repair are mostly the same.

Note: First of all, we do not touch on robotic vacuum cleaners - they "in their minds" reset the warranty and block the control electronics if the access code was not entered before opening. Also, we do not touch on powerful floor-standing vacuum cleaners with an external dust collector or a vertical cyclone. There are still household models of both on sale, but the demand for them is steadily falling - they do not justify themselves in operation.

Why so much?

If we consider the nameplates of the old "Rockets", "Jupiters" and similar "from there", it will be found that the old ones consumed from the network at 350-450 W, and modern vacuum cleaners take 1200-2000 W. The intrigues of the damned bourgeois after the collapse of the USSR? No, everything is fair, the point is quite different.

More than 30 years ago, doctors noticed that hotel maids, theater cleaners, and other people who used vacuum cleaners were getting silicosis almost as often as miners. It turned out that ordinary dust in the dust collector is crushed, emitting very harmful particles with a size of 1-10 microns (microns). Micro-dust passes through the fabric of the dust collector without hindrance and rises into the air, and when the bag is shaken out, its concentration jumps over all conceivable limits, and so it lasts for hours.

Vacuum cleaners began to be made with 2-3 stage air purification, but additional motor power was needed to blow the microfilters. Customers all wanted their vacuum cleaners to be quieter, lighter and smaller. That is, the more powerful motor had to be made more compact and supplied with a less efficient low-noise fan. The motor of the vacuum cleaner could no longer work without forced cooling, and its power had to be further increased to blow itself over. This is how the current limits of power consumption of household vacuum cleaners developed.

The role of filters and hose

Dusty air is harmful to a powerful small-sized electric motor no less than micro-dust to human lungs. As a result, all modern vacuum cleaners, without exception, are built according to the scheme with full-flow cooling of the motor with purified air. If an old vacuum cleaner with a clogged bag simply pulled badly, then a modern one with clogged filters, a few minutes after starting, will switch to a reduced power, or it will be turned off by an emergency thermostat, or it will burn out if there is no protective automatics (the cheapest) or it is muted (there are such craftsmen) ... Therefore, n Before disassembling the vacuum cleaner as described below, check all filters and, if necessary, replace or rinse and refill, see below. And also - a hose, also see below. The symptoms of a broken hose can overlap with much more serious symptoms.

Vacuum cleaner device

The vast majority of vacuum cleaner models are built according to 3 structural types:

1. With a dry dust bag;
2. With aquafilter (with air-water mist filter);
3. With non-replaceable cyclone dust collector.

Any of these types of vacuum cleaners can be equipped with attachments (brushes) for wet and dry cleaning. Attachments have their own characteristic malfunctions, which we will also deal with further.

With bag

In a vacuum cleaner with a dry dust collector (on the left in the figure), the air passes first through the dust bag, then through the fine filter and the compartment of the fan motor. T. called. The HEPA filter traps particles of the order of 1 micron. The HEPA filter works only under pressure, and dust grains less than 3-5 microns do not affect the operation and durability of the motor, therefore the HEPA filter is installed after the motor fan, which in this case also works as a compressor.

Vacuum cleaners with a dry dust collector are the least prone to breakage, but their main drawback is disposable filters. The dust collector is made of propylene or silicone fiber and cannot be regenerated - the filled bag is thrown away and replaced with a new one. If you try to clean it, rinse it, or sew a cloth from an old vacuum cleaner to the previous neck, the formation of micro-dust increases so much that the thin and HEPA filter instantly clogs. If, however, you "cheat" with them in a similar way, it soon turns out that the repair of the motor is necessary, expensive and / or complicated.

The fine filter and the HEPA filter cannot be restored either, but in some cases it is still possible, see below. A characteristic sign of clogged filters is that the vacuum cleaner pulls poorly, buzzes strongly (without clanking and bouncing), heats up. If there is an automatic system, after 1-15 minutes after switching on, it switches to a reduced power or stops. For example, over 65% of calls to the warranty service with inexpensive LG vacuum cleaners regarding such a "breakdown" are caused by a clogged HEPA filter. The user is shown where it is printed in small print that this is an out-of-warranty case and is amicably explained how much to pay. Meanwhile, replacing the filter in an LG vacuum cleaner is completely nonsense, see next. video.

Video: repairing a switched off vacuum cleaner by replacing the filter (for example, LG)

With aquafilter

In vacuum cleaners in the aquafilter (in the center in the figure at the beginning of the section) filtration is 2-stage; in fact - one-stage. The flow of incoming air whips the water in the dustbin into a mist that immediately absorbs all the dust. A vortex of mist swirls under the front visor of the dust collector and dust settles to the bottom. Further, the fog with the remnants of micro-dust passes through a fog filter, which also works as a HEPA filter, clean air without dripping moisture cools the motor and is discharged outside. A vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter consumes electricity by 20-25% less than a "dry one with a bag" of the same air performance and with the same vacuum.

If the aquafilter of the vacuum cleaner is promptly emptied, rinsed and filled up to the mark (or according to the norm in the instructions) with clean (better - distilled) water, then the fog filter serves without replacement up to 2-2.5 warranty periods. If you pour tap water into the dust collector by eye, it clogs up long before the end of the first. Symptoms are the same as before. case; replacement in the service is also paid. Self-replacement - open the cover of the vacuum cleaner, squeeze the latches of the filter cover, remove the old one, put a new one. A clogged mist filter cannot be recovered.

Note: The fog filter of a vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter almost always breaks down instantly if the vacuum cleaner is tipped over and liquid moisture gets on the fog filter. The same happens from overfilling with water in the dust collector.

Much more serious is another disease of vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter - their motor is blown with air saturated with water vapor. On average, the warranty replacement of a fan motor with burnt windings in vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter is twice as likely as in others, per product; Samsung vacuum cleaners of the VC / VCD series are especially sinful. Signs that the motor windings are "twisted" (short circuit, short circuit, between the turns) - the vacuum cleaner hums strongly, pulls poorly, heats up. Doesn't reach full capacity; it is possible to knock out plugs or a circuit breaker. We check the motor for an orbit short circuit trace. way (the technique is also suitable for other types of vacuum cleaners):

• We turn on the vacuum cleaner for a short time without a hose and with a dry aquafilter. A clang, knock is heard - you must first check the impeller and motor bearings, see below.
• Works smoothly, but pulls weakly - cover the inlet (hose socket) with your palm. If the impeller is covered with dust, but the motor is working properly, its sound should change significantly. Remains the same or the change is not very noticeable - constant orbit short-circuit.
• The motor seems to be working properly - remove the palm and wait 5-10 minutes (no more!). The thrust fell, the heating began; possibly knocked out the plugs - intermittent coil short circuit from heating.
• We are looking on the Internet or in any other way, how much does a new compressor (motor-fan) cost for a given model of a vacuum cleaner for replacement.
• We cope with the service or with the masters - such and such a model, a suspicion of a coil in the motor, what will the bulkhead with rewinding cost?
• We decide whether to send for repair or replace the compressor with our own hands, see below.

Note: also about the repair of the Samsung VC6015V vacuum cleaner at 1500W, you can watch the video below:

Video: disassembling and repairing a vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter (for example, Samsung VC6015V)

With cyclone

A vacuum cleaner with a cyclone dust collector can be recognized by the transparent "glass" on the front, see fig. on right. The masters say this to each other: well, they also brought me a glass. What happens in general no more often than with "dry bags". It's fair to say.

The main advantage of cyclone vacuum cleaners is that there are fewer disposable filters that need to be bought and purchased, and containers with water that must be carefully filled and must not be tipped over. It would seem that the motor may be weaker; seemingly minimal resistance to air flow. But no. Since the dimensions and configuration of the cyclone of the vacuum cleaner are far from optimal based on the physical properties of the air, the motor, on the contrary, is needed by the same 20-25% more powerful than for a "dry with a bag".

In household cyclonic vacuum cleaners, almost exclusively double cycloning is used (on the right in the figure with the diagrams above); such trade names contain the designation twin. Shake out the filled dust container; no flushing is needed. The cleaned air then goes into the engine compartment and through the HEPA filter to the outside. Because the formation of micro-dust in the cyclone is minimal, the cyclone's HEPA filter lasts much longer.

Disease of cyclonic vacuum cleaners - mesh filter at the cyclone outlet; it protects the fan motor from large particles. In general, cyclonic vacuum cleaners perform well in rooms where the hostess (or maid) is daily walked with a vacuum cleaner. If the room is cleaned once a week or less, the mesh filter will quickly become clogged. Symptoms are the same as from a clogged HEPA filter. And it happens that a very powerful vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, for example, a Samsung 1800W (Samsung SC8431 twin) in a normal room does not reach full power until the mesh filter is removed at all, see next. video.

Video: repairing a cyclonic vacuum cleaner with a clogged mesh filter (for example, Samsung SC8431)

Removing the strainer is certainly not beneficial for the longevity of the motor or for air and room cleanliness. Suddenly the vacuum cleaner will tighten a brooch, badge, paper clip, any small solid object - you can count out money for a new fan motor with peace of mind, because the crumpled impeller instantly disrupts the balancing of the motor armature, see below. Samsung's of lower power with cyclones do not require mesh removal (they have it less often), but another characteristic defect appears - a broken lower bearing. However, replacing it is much easier, cheaper and possible on your own, for example, see the article on how to repair a 1600W Samsung with such a malfunction:

Video: replacing the bearing in a cyclone vacuum cleaner

Renovation: from simple to complex

However, the cases in the video above are quite serious and not so frequent. We will return to what happens to the motor and what can be done with it. As well as to the winding drum for the power cord - it sometimes gives external signs, like from a coiled short circuit and, in order to get to the drum, a complete disassembly of the vacuum cleaner is also needed. In the meantime, let's get down to what is available from the outside without tools - filters and a hose. Most often, the repair of a vacuum cleaner is reduced to them.

Filters

The "fine" and HEPA filters of the vacuum cleaner are similar, see fig. on right; the only difference is in the filter element. The frames of both are detachable (you need to tuck it into the slot on the side). The HEPA filter is simply pulled out of the slot using the handle. To remove the fine filter, it is usually sufficient to remove the dust bag. But in some models, the fine filter becomes available only with the motor, so see below.

Let us reveal a secret to the reader: filtering elements of autofilters are perfect for vacuum cleaner filter inserts (except for foggy ones). Moreover, they are made by the same manufacturers. It is worse with a fine filter: it requires an engine air filter insert, which is not sold separately. But for the most expensive and quickly clogging HEPA filter, the cabin air filter insert of any SUV is suitable. The cheapest are UAZ ones, and they are no worse than the "cool firm".

One cabin filter is enough for several HEPAs, so open the original packaging by carefully cutting off the edge with scissors. Then the HEPA filter frame is pulled apart, the dirty insert is thrown away. The frame is washed, wiped dry. A piece is cut out of the cabin filter to the size of the frame, and the remainder is put back into the bag and the edge is sealed with tape so that the liner does not suck dust from the air. The cut piece is placed in a frame, glued along the contour (preferably from a glue gun), the frame is snapped into place - a new HEPA filter is ready.

Hose

If the hose sheath breaks, the vacuum cleaner behaves in the same way as with clogged filters, impeller or a small constant coil short circuit: pulls poorly, the sound of the motor changes, overheating is possible. It is simple to detect a malfunction: you just need to slightly pull the hose at the bar clip (the pipe on which the brush is mounted) or the connecting nipple (the thing with which the hose is inserted into the vacuum cleaner).

Most often, the hose breaks at the bar; in this case, repairs with improvised means are possible and very fast, literally without interrupting the cleaning:

Video: quick repair of a torn vacuum cleaner hose

Note: for the repair of the hose of a vacuum cleaner with cleaning functions, see further acc. section.

Much less often, the vacuum cleaner hose breaks in the middle. It is also possible to restore it very quickly, but a heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) is needed. It is not necessary to sit HERE over the flame, you can warm it up with air from a household hair dryer at full power. How to repair a vacuum cleaner hose using a heat-shrinkable tube, see next. video.

Video: heat shrink vacuum cleaner hose repair

Disassembly

Now let's take on more complicated repairs, for which the vacuum cleaner needs to be disassembled. This may be necessary if the measures described above are taken, the malfunction has been eliminated, but the external symptoms of the malfunction remain. Before disassembling the vacuum cleaner, you must:

1. Disconnect it from the power supply.
2. Disconnect the hose.
3. In vacuum cleaners with a cyclone or aquafilter, remove and empty the dust container.

The internal structure of the vacuum cleaner is shown in more detail on the left in the figure:

Dismantling of the vacuum cleaner is carried out in the next. order:

• Flip open the cover, pos. 1 in fig.
• Loosen the latches or remove the screws that secure the cover hinge to the body, and remove the cover if the hinge is in front.
• If the cover folds back, remove the HEPA filter, pos. 2.
• Unscrew the screws under the HEPA filter.
• Raise the carry handle. If a screw is visible underneath, remove it.
• If the mounting screws for the upper housing half are visible from above (red arrow in key 2), remove them.
• If the mounting screws are not visible from above, turn the vacuum cleaner over and inspect from below. Perhaps the screws holding the halves of the case are hidden under the hinged technological cover, pos. 3.
• Remove the upper housing cover. Now you will have access to the motor, drum with cord and, possibly, to the fine filter, pos. 4.
• In some models of vacuum cleaners, after the housing connector, 2 more screws and a latch are found. By unscrewing the screws and pressing the latch, you can remove the tray with the motor and drum, pos. 5.
• The motor-fan is fixed in the compartment with long screws (shown by arrows in pos. A).
• Do not twist the screw heads, they sit on the thread and in the motor! It is necessary to unscrew the nuts on the studs, then the motor will be removed, pos. 6.
• The option of mounting the motor is likely when, instead of the nuts on the threaded rods, the screw heads are visible behind it. This means that the impeller shroud is firmly seated, see below. In this case, unscrew the screws and take out the fan motor.
• By removing the motor power connector from the socket, we get full access to the power cord drum, pos. 7.

Motor: what can be done

Electric motors of vacuum cleaners for the sake of compactness are made as collector motors with sequential excitation: a quiet and economical asynchronous engine of 1.5-2 kW will be the most of the vacuum cleaner and will pull not several tens of kilos. To get an acceptable efficiency of the collector motor (on alternating current, generally speaking, it is very bad for electric machines), more or less decent performance of the impeller and reduce the noise of the vacuum cleaner, its motor is calculated at a high rotation speed, more than 10,000 rpm. In this case, balancing the rotor (which is called an armature in the collector motor) together with the impeller becomes of great importance. If, for example, you climb "out of business" into the compressor and slightly crush the impeller (or break the plastic blade) - you "hit" the new compressor. Or, let's say, the vacuum cleaner rattled, but pulled. Then he stopped pulling. We disassemble, look - the bearing seats in the housing are broken. Again, "hitalovo" for the same thing. Therefore, the immutable rules that must be followed, suddenly the vacuum cleaner junk and there is a suspicion of a mechanic, are as follows:

1. Suddenly, a hum, vibration, clanking, knocking, and other sharp extraneous sounds appeared in the operation of the vacuum cleaner - do not delay the repair, it will be more expensive.
2. If the vacuum cleaner gets warm and, especially, smells of burnt insulation, turn it off immediately and see the previous page. paragraph.
3. Before reaching the motor, carefully check all possible sources of malfunction described above and the power cord drum, see below.
4. Make sure that the voltage in the sockets corresponds to that indicated in the passport or on the nameplate of the vacuum cleaner. Its everyday norm is 185-245 V, but powerful AC collector motors do not tolerate supply voltage fluctuations in such a wide range; for them, the norm (unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise) is 195-235 V.
5. Not knowing the ford, do not go into the water - take on the electromechanics, only knowing exactly what and how you will do there and where it will lead.

The internal structure of the fan motor of the vacuum cleaner is shown in pos. 1 fig. below, and in pos. 2 and 3 - variants of its execution. Pos. 2 - fastening with short screws at the back and the impeller casing on a tight fit (see also above) is used predominantly. in modern vacuum cleaners; the entire flow of air washes over the motor. Pos. 3 - a casing with a seal is fastened with stud screws, this is an old, but still quite common option. In this case, there are no problems: we unscrew the screws, pry off the casing with a screwdriver (it stuck to the seal), and the casing falls off by itself.

If the casing is on a tight fit, very, very carefully, without haste, we slowly tap its backward-protruding side until the casing slides off. It would be better to put a steel strip 3-4 mm thick: it, without weakening the impact, will distribute its force along the greater length of the side. Assembly, by the way, is in reverse order, only we tap the neck. If it is not there, then the unit is being assembled at a special stand. Then stop! We do not climb further ourselves.

But, let's say, the casing is removed and we see the impeller, pos. 5. Dented or battered - new compressor, there is nothing to be done. At such a speed of rotation, if a pushpin enters the impeller, the bearing seats will be loosened; what this means, see above.

Okay, the impeller is intact. We unscrew the fastening screws of the brush holders (shown with red arrows in the figure on the right) and take out the brush holders with brushes (green arrows). For now, we put aside and check the impeller: without brushes, it should rotate freely, easily, smoothly and from a sharp push with a finger, make several revolutions. No - see below, but for now we will deal with the brush-collector assembly.

We check the cuts of the brushes, they should remain at least 1-1.5 cm in length and exactly the same. If a hole is visible in the middle of the end of the brush, and there is some kind of copper in it, that's it, the brushes are completely worn out. The brushes are changed only and only in complete pairs. If one is worn even a millimeter more than the other, the pair of brushes changes regardless of the degree of overall wear.

We clean the collector with chamois soaked in alcohol and wipe it dry with flannel. God forbid rubbing with a sandpaper! The collector lamellas of the vacuum cleaner motors are made of copper-plated aluminum. A thin layer of copper: ripped with sandpaper to white - a new compressor. The same if an annular groove is found on the manifold, which is burnt out from an all-round fire. A circular fire surrounds the collector if the vacuum cleaner is driven for a long time with clogged filters.

Now let's say that the impeller rotates tightly and / or not smoothly, it seems like it clings to something. In fact, it is removed with a pneumatic or hydraulic puller, but first you need to unscrew the nut holding the impeller with a left-hand thread. She sat down tightly: each time the vacuum cleaner is turned on, the inertia of the impeller tends to tighten the nut. Not having the skills to work with mechanics and electromechanics, it is better to stop at this and honestly tell the masters: I myself do not know how, but I am completely afraid to break it. But for amateurs who fully own the tool, we give a video on how to unscrew the vacuum cleaner impeller nut:

Video: unscrewing the vacuum cleaner impeller nut

If the nut gave way, you can try to remove the impeller by carefully turning it on the shaft left and right with your hands. The shaft can be fixed with a nylon cord: one end of it is tied to some hole, the shaft is tightly wrapped under the impeller with a cord, then the assistant pulls the free end of the cord all the time, and you are trying to rip off the impeller. But never jam the shaft with something hard! The silumin motor housing can crack, and then again - a new compressor. Some even manage to turn the shaft in the anchor, which is understandable to the mind, but with great difficulty.

Okay, the impeller has slipped. What for? To check the bearings. We drip 1-2 drops of kerosene or brake fluid into the gaps between the bearing races and their seats in the housing. We take a nail, rest its point on the hole on the shaft shank and try to push the anchor (see the figure below) forward. If you haven’t got used to it, it will come out, tk. the front bearing is larger than the rear. You can lightly tap the head of the nail with a light hammer, but very carefully - the silumin body may crack!

Checking the rotation of the bearings. It will be difficult to remove the unusable ones, because they are cold-loaded on the shaft journals, i.e. the armature is cooled before installing the bearings. You can try to warm up the bearings with a household hair dryer and, while hot, push the ends of the scissors. There are other ways, see, for example, how to replace the motor bearings of the rather popular Samsung SC4325 in the next. video:

Video: replacing the bearing of the Samsung SC4325 vacuum cleaner

What is not necessary

"Recover" broken bearings with lithol, fiol, etc. The engine speed is not right for such a trick to pass. Also, you do not need to rewind the anchor yourself, because of the same rotation speed. After rewinding, its dynamic balancing is imperative. Not static in centers! If there is a specialist who rewinds with a guarantee, and will take a cheaper new compressor for it, you can try. But you don't need it yourself.

Drum

The power cord reel may have mechanical and electrical problems. Mechanical - breakage of the locking lever and the spring inside. In either case, the cord is either not pulled out, or is not pulled back, in whole or in part. The lever is usually flat, L-shaped; a new one is made from a piece of metal, no special precision is needed. To get to the spring (and contacts, see below), you need to completely wind up the cord and disassemble the drum; all mounting screws are outside. Usually the mustache breaks off the spring. To bend a new one, the end of the spring is released, heating over a fire. When reassembling the drum, the spring is wound up 2-3 turns and the cord travel is checked. Not fully stretched - the initial plant needs to be weakened. The whole is not drawn in - on the contrary, to strengthen.

The power cord in the drum is usually connected to the vacuum cleaner assembly with sliding contacts. Symptoms of their malfunction - the vacuum cleaner works intermittently or does not turn on at all. It is possible that it coincides with the signs of a coiled short-circuit: it is heating up, pulling poorly, carrying burnt insulation. However, it is useless to check the contacts with a tester: it will not catch the intermittent point non-contact.

The drum contacts are checked with a homemade probe from any earphone and finger-type battery, familiar to radio amateurs. See figure for checkout:

The procedure is as follows:

• One probe (no matter which one) stands on the drum contact pad (shown by red arrows).
• With another probe, a corresponding pin of the power plug is found with a click in the earpiece.
• One person listens to what is in the earphone, holding the plug, and the other pulls the cord completely out of the loop and lets go.

There should be dead silence in the earpiece all the time. The slightest rustle - the drum needs to be touched, cleaned, straightened or changed contacts. The current through the earphone is only a few mA, but what will happen when the standard 5-10 A goes through the circuit?

Wiper brushes

Vacuum cleaner malfunctions are also possible in active handpieces, i.e. performing cleaning functions. How their main varieties work and work is shown in Fig. below. In the wet handpiece (left in figure), the main source of failure is the user. The detergent pump is not designed to run dry. If you do not refuel the vacuum cleaner before cleaning, its motor will be damaged. The pump is structurally integral to the detergent tank and cannot be repaired. As for the pipes for supplying the detergent and its spray, they are outside, transparent and the blockages in them are immediately visible. For cleaning, the feed tube is simply pulled from the fitting on the vacuum cleaner and the sprayer, and is also simply put back on. Replacement is also not difficult: any plastic tube of a suitable diameter.

To see the device of the dry (sweeping) active tip (on the right in the figure), you need to remove the side covers sitting on friction or latches on the tip hinge (in the center in the figure) or directly on the sides of the brush. A low-power dust-proof brush motor rarely fails. A little more often the drive belt sags and slips (green arrow on the right in the figure) or the bristles of the throwing drum wear out; it should protrude beyond the bottom plane of the tip by at least 8-9 mm. The throwing drum cannot be restored; it is replaced with a new one. A break in the power supply wires of the throwing drum drive is also quite common. The wires run inside the hose; how to replace them in a fairly widespread vacuum cleaner Samsung SC-6573, see the plot:

Video: repair of wires in a hose with a regulator (Samsung SC-6573)

Finally about electronics

I must say that the electrical circuits of vacuum cleaners, except for the most expensive ones with microprocessors, are not particularly complicated. The electrical schematic diagram of the vacuum cleaner, which can be considered close to the typical one, is shown in Fig. below. The mains voltage in this case is 110 V. For a voltage of 220 V, the resistance R1 is increased to 150 Ohm and its power is up to 2 W. R5 take 330 kOhm, VR1 and VR2 take 470-510 kOhm, R3 - 24 kOhm 2 W. The operating voltage of all capacitors is 630 V.

R3 sets the maximum power of the vacuum cleaner, it can be changed in the range of 12-47 kOhm. VR1 is an online power control, and VR2 is set to its minimum value, and you need to be careful here. The fact is that if the motor armature stops, every half-cycle of the mains voltage will flow through it a starting current equal to 3-5 working current, and an expensive powerful triac (TRIAC according to the scheme) will burn out. Therefore, when setting up the circuit, the VR2 engine is first set to the minimum resistance, then a voltage of 175 V is given from the LATR and VR2 is very carefully, without overshoot, the motor speed is reduced to 700-800 rpm.

Thermal protection in such a circuit is also easy: parallel to C3, a 1-1.5 MΩ thermistor is connected (for a 220 V mains voltage) with a reverse logarithmic temperature characteristic. Physically, the thermistor must be in thermal contact with the motor housing, but electrically isolated from it. A "cold" thermistor (at room temperature) does not affect the operation of the circuit, but when heated to 70-80 degrees, its resistance will drop to 1-0.5 R3, C3 will charge slower for half a period, a low-power DIAC triac will open and open TRIAC later , and the motor power will decrease by half or four times. In approximately the same way, it is possible to modify most vacuum cleaners with power control, but without protective automation.

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Modern people cannot do without technological devices that make life more interesting and productive. Music is present in our lives thanks to mp3 players and smartphones. When going for a run, getting to work, many people listen to music. Such a pleasant time is provided by headphones that transmit sound quality and at the same time allow not to disturb others. You can find out how to fix your headphones in this article.

Many people are faced with the fact that after a period of use, the headphones break. Most often, one of the headphones stops working, which gives hope that it can still be repaired. The question is especially relevant for those who use expensive headphones.

"What's the first thing to do when the earpiece breaks down?" - The first step is to find out the cause of the breakdown.

A common cause of headphone malfunction is a broken wire. The second most common problem is speaker malfunction. If you listen carefully to the "symptoms", you can determine the cause of the breakdown by ear.

How to determine the cause of a breakdown:

• The absence of sound or its frequent interruption, disappearance indicates that the matter is in a torn wire.
• A wheezing and muffled sound indicates that a breakdown has occurred in the speaker.
• Constant drops in sound may indicate that the plug has broken and is moving away.
• If the wires in the cord break off, the earpiece starts to make rustling sounds.
• Usually, cords break at the plug or inside the earphone.
• The channel can simply become clogged. To clean it, you need to disassemble the earpiece and clean the membrane with alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.

Cord breakage and bending usually occur under constant stress. An increase in the bending radius of the wires can also lead to breakage. Self-repair of the headphones is only possible if the wire breaks in them. But the breakdown of the speakers, most likely, will lead to the purchase of new headphones. If the headphones are of high quality and have a guarantee, then in the event of a coil breakage, they can be taken to a service center.

Headphones broke: how to make

First of all, when the sound disappears in the headphones, you need to establish the reason. If this is a wire break, you need to find the place of its break. If that's the case, then the headphones need to be repaired.

It is very easy to locate the wire break if the headphones are producing sound. To do this, you need to turn on the music and feel and bend the wire along its entire length.

Where the sound disappears when the wire is bent, there is a broken element. Fixing the breakage will now be easy. Part of the broken wire is removed, and the "healthy" elements are again connected to each other using a soldering iron. Sometimes the wire breaks in the connector, then, most likely, you will need to replace the plug.

How to fix headphones:

• Open the earpiece.
• Inspect the membrane. The crumpled membrane must be leveled.
• If dust and debris gets into the membrane, it must be cleaned.
• Rub the mesh with alcohol, which separates the membrane from the space.

The problem may be the rupture of the veins. To restore them, you need to completely disassemble the headphones. Different headphones can be fastened in different ways: the elements can be fastened using plastic clips or screws. Some headphones are held together with glue. After the earphone is opened, it is necessary to remove unnecessary remnants of the wire, strip it and solder it.

Why do headphones break

Those who use headphones a little know that they tend to break. Often, headphones distort the sound, broadcast it intermittently, or stop sounding altogether. In order to understand why headphones break, you need to know how they work.

Sometimes you can avoid breaking the headphones - for this you need to use them carefully, and after each use, carefully wind up the wires.

Breakdowns are mainly caused by faulty plugs and wires. If the cable in expensive headphones breaks down, you can replace it by purchasing regular headphones and cutting the cable from them. If you need to replace the plug, first you need to decide on its type, and then go in search of the necessary element in a specialized store.

Reasons for headphone breakage:

• Kink in the cord;
• Clogged mechanism;
• Broken speaker cord;
• Malfunction of the plug;
• The electrical connector is not working properly.

To determine the cause of the breakdown, you need to open the earphone. If the cord breaks and the contacts come off, you just need to connect them with a soldering iron. When connecting wires, you need to pay attention to the fact that the left channel must be connected to the tip of the connector, and the right channel to the middle.

Tips: how to make headphones if they are torn

From time to time, headphones for a player or phone become unusable, but do not rush to throw them away. For example, if the headphones are torn, they can be repaired, and you can do it yourself at home. To fix the damage, it is necessary to remove the insulation and protective winding from the cord.

You can perform the procedure for stripping the earphone using special nippers or a simple knife.

Headphones usually consist of a pair of wires tied together. Each wire has an insulated signal and a ground wire. You can fix the headphones by cutting off the non-working section of the wire. It is important to avoid splitting the wire. To protect the electrical cord from damage, you need to ensure that the wire is cut evenly.

Repair tips:

• If one wire fails or one channel comes off, the cutting procedure can be skipped by directly proceeding with the soldering.
• A special heat-shrinkable tube must be put on the wires, which performs an insulating function.
• After twisting the wires, all connections are sealed.

If there is no way to solder the headphones, most likely you will just have to change them. In order for the wire to no longer bend or break, it can be protected at the place of repair by applying a special glue. And in order to avoid breaking the wires, they must be carefully carried in a pocket or bag, making sure that they do not bend.

Review: how to disassemble earbuds

Headphones can last a long time if handled well. But over time, any wires wear out, the contact leaves. Sometimes it can be so difficult to part with your favorite headphones that it is easier to subdue them and use them for some time. Be extremely careful when repairing your headphones. Because one wrong move - and the repair will be inappropriate.

You can repair the headphones by disassembling them, but also during disassembly, you can damage the membrane and capsule.

If cheap headphones are broken, it is almost impossible to disassemble them, because they are glued together tightly. To open an inoperative earpiece, you need a scalpel or a sharp knife to pry on a half of the case. After the halves open. You can clean the headphone housing.

How to open the headphones:

• Open in a circle with sharp instruments.
• To separate the two halves, you need to make an effort, but so as not to break the body.
• You do not need to cut through the headphones to a great depth, half or one millimeter is enough.
• All actions must be performed carefully so as not to damage the membrane of the headphones.

Not all headphones can be repaired. For example, if a speaker is broken, it is likely that it will not be repaired even in the service. Many people face a problem when iPhone headphones break. Before buying equipment, it is important to pay attention to the availability of the manufacturer's warranty. Unbreakable headphones are rare. To repair headphones at home, it is imperative to use a soldering iron, otherwise the whole fix will go down the drain.

Instructions: how to fix headphones (video)

Those who use headphones know that they break frequently. But this is not a reason to constantly buy new headphones, especially if they cost a lot of money. Before proceeding with your self-repair, it is important to remember if the headphones have a warranty period. If yes, then it is better to take them to the service. To fix headphones at home, you need a soldering iron and a knife. First of all, you need to determine the cause of the breakdown. Most often this is a wire break or speaker breakage. Before soldering the wires, you need to determine exactly where the contacts came off: at the top of the headphones or near the plug. After detecting a breakdown, the earbuds can be quickly soldered.

If you drive a car, it means that you have come across this problem in one way or another, or can potentially face this problem. It concerns the topic of locks, or rather the electric data drive. Time and frequent use of the unit sooner or later lead to its inevitable wear and tear. Well at least it will be possible to get into the car by unlocking the door with the usual "physical" key. But this is not our method!

This breakdown, of course, is not the end of the world, but it takes you one step away from the comfortable car of your dreams, if you are used to the convenience of using electric locks. The moment the door stops locking and unlocking with the push of a button, this often means that the remote control of the door lock has finally decided to retire. What to do? Repair! How? Let's tell you now.

If we take the basis of the design, it will turn out to be extremely simple: the lock drive consists of a small electric motor, which drives the gearbox of the lock drive mechanism. That's all the wisdom.

Sounds really simple enough, right? And it seems that the most reasonable way to treat a sudden illness may be to buy a part instead of a failed one, but most likely you won't even have to do that. A broken remote control lock drive can be repaired free of charge on any car, it just needs to spend some time.

Now we will take a look at the insides of the car door lock drive, see what is broken there, and then fix this breakdown, because it will almost always be the same.

Getting to the source of problems

The first thing we need to do is get to the locking mechanism actuator (a procedure that will vary from vehicle to vehicle). In some vehicles it is easy to get to the desired part, while in others it is a real challenge. 2011 model year can be classified as a difficult car in terms of work. So much the better: the example will be clearer.

Note: the disassembly process in the vast majority of cases is a very delicate operation that must be performed flawlessly. The appearance of the car interior depends on its success.

There are two basic steps that will be similar for any vehicle, regardless of class and year of manufacture. The first is to disconnect the battery before starting work. Especially true for modern vehicles with side airbags. Be sure to disconnect the battery before proceeding. It is important!

The second step is to remove the inner door panel. Each car has original "door cards" installed. They are also fastened in different ways. Therefore, in order to find out and understand the principle of fastening, which is specific to your car, you will need to look into the manual for disassembling and assembling the car. The latter can be bought or found completely free of charge on the Internet using Yandex or Google search.

Inexpensive interior trimming tools like the ones in the photo above are handy for doing the job of detaching the interior of the upholstery, but essentially not required. The plastic clips holding the inner panel to the door are usually located along the outer perimeter of the door panel; they are easy to drown one by one using a flat, wide blade screwdriver. The main thing is to know where these plastic clips are located (the instruction diagram will help you) and act carefully!

On the way to the final removal of the door, you will have three or four hidden screws. They are usually located behind a doorknob, a pocket for small items and a triangle of the outside mirror. If the door panel cannot be removed, it is most likely because somewhere there is still an invisible screw that has not been unscrewed. Do not use force! Find it.

The door panel is almost removed

Once the outer trim panel has been removed from the door, it will usually be necessary to remove the second section of the trim. It is a technical layer that absorbs sounds and protects you from the ubiquitous dust in the vehicle interior.

On some cars it is just a plastic sheeting glued on, while on others it is a hard plastic panel. The second version was installed on the Sonata.

Remember when I said that it is more difficult to dismantle and repair this car in general? This is because all the internals that are laid in the doors are built into this secondary panel. The columns, the window stop, the window motor, the door lock drive and all the electrics, which is in the same place, are bolted to the panel.

Mechanisms and wires attached to the secondary panel

Remove or loosen all parts on the cover before proceeding with the removal of the protective inner panel. The lock actuator on this vehicle is integrated into the door latch. First of all, it was unscrewed before dismantling. After that, the outer door handle was removed from its place.

Then the seating of the side door glass was loosened, since the window travel stop is attached to the inner panel. You can take it out of the door itself or leave it there, having previously secured it so that it does not fall out.

The central gray tube is a reinforcing safety element that protects against side impact.

Finally, we remove the panel to access the door lock drive, it is attached to the back of the protective panel. Please note that the car door lock and the lock closing drive are combined in a single unit. We remove the unit from the bulky structure.

When the door lock actuator is finally removed from the secondary panel, we are approaching the most important stage of the repair - the direct solution of a penny problem.

We disassemble the electric drive of the lock

So, we still need to get inside the lock actuator. At this point, it becomes more and more obvious that the manufacturer of the lock actuator did not want you to repair it. The body is made like some kind of bank vault. It is worth turning the case in your hands, and you will understand that it consists of two or three parts, which are held together with the help of small latches.

We take a couple of small flat head screwdrivers and begin to squeeze these clips, slowly but surely moving towards dividing the device into two halves. It is possible that you will break several clips. There is nothing wrong with that, although it is better to try to act with extreme caution. If you break all or most of the clips, the halves of the assembly will have to be glue, and this will make it difficult to access its electronic insides in the future (if necessary.)

So, before you is the inner world, hidden from prying eyes. Reducing the scale of our activities, moving forward. Be sure to photograph all stages of disassembly. This will make the assembly process easier.

Now let's talk about the main thing.

The drive shown in the example has a three-piece housing. The culprit behind the lock actuator malfunction is usually the electric motor, which is a shiny silver rectangular piece with a worm gear at the end. We just take it out (it is not secured by anything) to continue a more thorough inspection.

To make sure that the motor really turned out to be the root of evil, you can conduct a mini-test by connecting a 9-volt battery to the terminals on the electric motor. If everything is in order, the motor will come to life, if not, it will continue to lie motionless in its place. In our case, the engine did not rotate. Didn't even make a sound. The patient has been found!

There are two ways to go at this stage. Buy a similar electric motor in a spare parts / electronic goods store / worker, from disassembly. Or fix this one. Since we promised to show you a free repair option - and repairs here really won't cost anything - we will continue to prepare the motor.

An impromptu test proved that the motor was definitely the problem with the lock actuator. Let's not get into the physics of how these small DC motors work. You just need to be aware that a part inside the electric motor called the collector has become dirty, rendering the motor inoperative. To fix it, you need to clean the manifold.